Welcome to the official blog site of Barcelona Birding Point, your new birding & wildwatching travel agency. Here you will find trip reports, detailed information about some of our tours, tips on conservation and more.
Day 1. After picking up all our guests from their accommodations around the Barcelona International Airport, we moved to our first stop, very close to the airport. Sunrise was coming, and with the very first lights a couple of Iberian Green Woodpecker produced nice views. The first Hoopoes of the day started moving in the area and along the next half an hour we got nice views on Zitting Cisticola, Sardinian Warbler, Great Tit, Eurasian Greenfinch, European Stonechat, European Serin and a very nice flock of Long-tailed Tits. Along with them, a Lesser Spotted Woodpecker was noted, and during the next couple of minutes I fought to put everyone on this bird. Not easy, since it was very restless. A large flock of Meadow Pipits appeared from alfalfa fields around us.
It was time to leave, but when leaving we were surprised by a Hooded Crow, a very scarce species with only a few pairs nesting around Barcelona that started to colonised the area only seven years ago.
Iberian Green Woodpecker posing for us as we arrived to our first stop of the trip..This Lesser Spotted Woodpecker was moving in the tree above us for a couple of minutes, not always easy to see!
From here, we drove directly to the Pyrenees, where we were committed to do a first stop in a large farming spot close to Lladurs. There, a large flock of White-wingedSnow Finches had been settled for a couple of months.. We arrived and started scanning the fields. Small parties of Skylarks were moving around along with large flocks of Common Chaffinches, but no sign of the Snow Finches. Suddenly, a large flock of white-winged birds were seen at the other side of the fields. No doubt, they were our birds! They flew in a very compact flock and, as usual in this species, avoiding to mix with other species of Sparrow or Finches.
Soon, the flock moved our way and flew several times above our heads, providing wonderful views on this high mountain bird! In the wires of the area we also saw 17 Rock Sparrows, and a few Woodlarks were taking advantage of the sunny morning to sing their hearts out while the very first Griffon Vultures of the trip were noted circling around.
On the Snow Finches here, please note that this is species is normally seen in winter in mountain passes and at the top of a few, selected mountains. Never below 1000 meters, and never in farming areas. But this solid flock (at the end we counted 62 Snow Finches) was about 700 metres high in a farming area, and they stayed there for almost two months. It must be said that this situation it was coincident with a long episode of very bad weather in the top of the Pyrenees..
Snow Finches provided great views in the Pyrenean stop of the trip.At some point, they came extremely close!
After enjoying one of the birds of trip we went to have a coffee and something to eat. Yes, we still have to had some breakfast.. After a nice coffee with a wonderful mountain landscape in front of us, we moved to explore one of this great mountain passes were high mountain birds normally hung around. But in the mountain pass the movement of small birds was minimal. After weeks and weeks of snowfall, the amount of snow was quite impressive, leaving very little room for the species feeding on the ground. Still, a couple of stops produced 2 Golden Eagles, and a few Eurasian Griffons. From here we moved to nice patch of boreal forest, where we got a very close Golden Eagle flying over the forest and enjoyed good views on Common Crossbills, Goldcrests, Crested Tits and Short-toed Treecreepers. It was already the afternoon, and small flocks of Mistle Thrushes and Fieldfares were moving up in the sky, probably moving to their overnight shelter.
It was late afternoon, but we still got a final stop before arriving to our accommodation. Here, we enjoyed good scope views on Woodlarks singing with the lovely evening light, and we also improved the views on Common Rock Sparrows. European Serin, Cirl & Corn Buntings, Yellowhammer and Red-billed Choughs were also seen, and we ended day with a lovely Iberian Grey Shrike before arriving to our lodge, have some rest and go for a great evening meal..
Common Crossbill in the high mountain forest.Iberian Grey Shrike very close to our accommodation.
Day 2. A cold and cloudy morning high in the Pyrenees. Around our accommodations we got great views on Eurasian Siskins but also Nuthatches and Crested Tits. From here, we went for a short walk around our accommodation gave us a nice list, even if all the birds were distant. Here we got a couple of Fieldfares, 1 male Yellowhammer, Crested Tits, Greenfinches, Goldfinches and 3 Eurasian Bullfinches. Distant views on Iberian Green Woodpecker were also noted.
Inside Andorra we got excellent views on Dipper, plus a good number of Eurasian Griffons and a nice pair of Lammergeiers flying above the valley. They were distant but, still, a great first view on this iconic species. We also got 1 Golden Eagle and 1 unidentified large bird of prey, probably a Bonelli’s Eagle.
Back in Catalonia, we had a picnic stop next to a large cliff, with little movement there. From here we drove West, to explore a tiny village next to the cliffs, a wonderful location, always! En route, we got another adult Lammergeier despite the challenging weather. Once arrived to our final destination, a bit of sun was helped the birds of prey to move and we soon had 30+ Eurasian Griffon moving above our heads. Along with them, we got minimum 2 more Lammergeiers (1 adult + 1 3rd year). The walk around the village was very productive, and we got 2 Citril Finches flying around, 1 female Rock Bunting (scarce this year), a couple of Chiffchaffs, 1 distant Blue Rock Thrush, 6 Alpine Choughs flying around the church of the village and, as we were about to leave, we got a very distant Wallcreeper flying from one cliff to the next. We tried to relocate this Wallcreeper, but was impossible to relocate. From here we went to our accommodation in Lleida, right in the center of the plains..
Dipper, a urban bird in many Pyrenean valleys, also in Andorra.One of the Lammergeiers that we enjoyed while searching for Alpine Accentors.One of six Alpine Choughs flying around the group while exploring Vall de Meià.Griffons were very busy adding nesting material to their nests..
Day 3. After enjoying a great buffet breakfast, we moved back to the Pyrenees. Just as we arrived, we had a Bonelli’s Eagle posing for us at the top of the cliff, in a majestic view that was to mark our morning. The morning was grey and cold, and we had a couple of light rain events during the next hour. Still, our eyes were fixed on the rocks, and even if Northern Shoveler, Firecrest and Eurasian Griffons were all noted, our mind was only in trying to find a Wallcreeper. Even more when another group of birdwatchers had a distant Wallcreeper very early in the morning.. But the morning was passing on, and we got nothing. Suddenly, a small flock of birds flew from the cliffs; 5 Alpine Accentors just crossed the gorge, stopping in a very distant outcrop. Even if far away, we got them in scope, popping in and out of the mountain range. This is the largest flock of Alpine Accentors that I have ever had at this particular spot. Definately a good sign. But, beyond this, nothing was moving in the cliffs.
After almost three hours of search, we decided to give up, and we were already moving back to the van when suddenly a Wallcreeper moved in the cliff, not far away from the group. The next 30 minutes were incredible. At first, we were able to move very close to the bird, allowing amazing views as the bird came low in the cliff. This allow us to see the bird catching a couple of preys while moving up and down in cliff. But later we got the Wallcreeper in the scope for over 20 minutes as it was standing still in the rocks. First preening, then eating a small prey, then slightly moving aside to go back to its original position. It went and went and went. We managed to show the bird in the scope to some local people that was walking around and the whole episode truly ended in walk-away views. It took us longer than expected but it was an every-minute-worth-experience. Unforgettable!
It took us longer than expected, but it was worth it!We enjoyed long and close views on this mountain jewel..Here, Wallcreeper showing out the colours..
After such a great views, we went for celebration coffee that turned out in a light lunch at a local coffee shop. Some of the typical Catalan delicatessen enjoyed here included “croquetes”, “trinxat” and “botifarra amb seques”. Delicious.
From here, we went to check a nearby pond. We were glad to find 6 Common Pochards, a few Common Shelduck, Eurasian Teals, a couple of Gadwalls and a lovely male Ferruginous Duck that was the best bird of stop despite being very shy and despite the 50+ White Storks sitting next to the pond.
The afternoon was still young, so we drove a bit West to check a first Sandgrouse hotspot. There, we got first views on Calandra Larks as well as Red-billed Choughs and Jackdaws. It was windy, so it means gor for birds of prey. We were lucky, and Wayne found a majestic male Hen Harrier flying low over the fields right before John got a distant flock of 15+ Pin-tailed Sandgrouses moving away from us! We still had a little bit of time, enough to enjoy two close Golden Eagles (young and full adult) flying around our van and good views on Corn Bunting and Red-legged Partridge despite the wind.
The last stop of the day was devoted to a tiny valley with cliffs. Arrived right at sunset, we were listening the evening chorus when the extremely impressive and unforgettable call of an Eagle Owl came from somewhere in the slope right in from of us.. After a few seconds of scanning, we found a wonderful Eagle Owl standing up on one small rocky wall.. It called for a few minutes, allowing us amazing scope views and some shots right before flying away to hunt some rabbits in the nearby plains..
Common Pochards were easier to photograph than the very shy Ferruginous Duck..We got gorgeous views on Golden Eagle..Red-billed Chough feeding on the plains. This Eagle Owl was hooting at dusk, please note the white gorge, only visible while hooting.
Day 4. Transfer West from Lleida, to explore the large plains in Central Aragon. During the transfer we enjoyed several Red Kites and Marsh Harriers and, once arrived to the proper spot, it didn’t take long to locate the first superb Great Bustard standing up in the low grass fields. Soon after, we had a nice flock of 9 individuals resting on a field. They were surprisingly close to the lane, and slowly but majestic, they marched away from us in the endless plains..
In flight, we got here a couple of Hen Harriers and a distant Merlin before moving South. After some miles of plains, the terrain became every time more and more broken, until we arrived to proper habitat for Black Wheatears. Again we did it very well, and enjoyed here 3 Black Wheatears including two males chasing each other, probably fighting for the territory. Along with them, we got a distant Golden Eagle circling, solid views on Thekla Larks, several Sardinian Warblers and a few Dartford Warblers that gave us proper but short views as they were moving inside a small, dense pine.
This Great Bustard was the gorgeous welcome commitee of the plains to our group..Great Bustard in flight, always a treat!This very nice flock of males Great Bustards were one of the stars of the day!Black Wheatears offered very nice looks as we crossed a number of crocky slopes.
It was a cloudy day (as you can see in the image) and the weather forecast was pointing out a lot of wind in the afternoon and the next day. So, even if solid midday, we decided to go straight for Dupont’s Lark in one of the typical places, and we were lucky..
As arrived, we checked out one of my favourite spots. Mediterranean Short-toed Larks (formerly referred as Lesser Short-toed Larks) were all around, and very active. After a bit of drive and wait situation we found a first Dupont’s Lark feeding not far away from the path. It was picking the soil, running through the bush and sometimes watching us from behind a bush. We all got nice views, even if not the best. Happy after this first views we decided to check a second spot. The wind was starting to pick up, and we all knew that we didn’t have many time left to go. The second spot produced a couple of other fast views on Dupont’s Larks as we found a pair moving in the steppes along with Meadow Pipits and Thekla Larks. We still waited a bit more, but the weather was becoming very bad, with poor light and strong wind.
By the time we arrived to the accommodation the wind become very strong, and during the night there were peaks of 70 to 80 kilometers per hour..
Mediterranean Short-toed Larks are not big fans of singing from an exposed perch. That afternoon we were lucky as this male was surprised singing briefly from a rock..Dupont’s Lark in the run in the steppe land.For a few seconds, the bird was staring us from a small bush..
Day 5. Very last day of the trip. It was a extremely windy this morning but we were still keen to improve our views on Sandgrouses. The last day, as we were arriving to Belchite, we saw 2 Black-bellied Sandgrouses resting in a field, that immediately went away. So, after having breakfast, we left the accommodation to go to that same spot. Soon, we found a minimum of 8 Black-bellied Sandgrouses feeding in a large resting field. Using the minibus as a protection against the wind, everybody enjoyed great scope views on the Sandgrouses, but always with half of our brain concentrated in our scopes not to be blown away by the wind.. Here we also got Merlin and a few Pin-tailed Sandgrouses moving around. Happy with the views, we decided to go on with our plan. Yes, the previous evening we all agreed to move to devote some time of this last day in famous Ebro Delta, a wonder of birdlife. But before we had to improve the views on Black-bellied Sandgrouses..
Once this was sorted out, we moved back to the main road. And then we found a paddle. A paddle in our way. A very, very muddy one (there were strong rains only a few days ago in that area) that put one of our wheels deep into the earth and made us work very hard to line our van back on movement.. Unfortunately, we lost almost half an hour in that paddle, but after a coffee and cleaning stop and some drive we arrived to Ebro Delta to enjoy some birding. At Ebro Delta was also windy, but not as windy as it was in the plains.
Here, we went straight to the location where a Sociable Plover had been reported. Here, with strong winds, we scanned the large paddy fields full of flocks of very mobile birds. We counted at least 70 Pied Avocets, tens and tens of Glossy Ibises and well above 100 European Golden Plovers and Northern Lapwings. In the distance, we counted at least 30 Ruffs, 4 Spotted Redshanks, Dunlins, 1 Common Ringed Plover, Green Sandpipers, Greenshanks, 5 Ruddy Turnstones and 1 Eurasian Curlew was seen in flight. Our scan took long, but we finally found the young Sociable Plover moving along with Lapwings and Golden Plovers. But the flocks were mobile the wind never played in our way.. Here, we had our picnic lunches and we left the area when a flock of 100+ Greater Flamingoes were moving around, making all the smaller birds move all over.. But before heading to the motorway, we still got time for a fast stop in the Northern bay of the delta, where Caspian Tern, Slender-billed Gull, Mediterranean Gull, Lesser Black-backed Gull and Great Crested Grebe were added to our list!
Please, note the images of Sociable Plover are from a couple of days later..
Caspian Tern, a last minute species to be add in our trip list..Slender-billed Gull already showing its summer plumage.Sociable Plover feeding in a paddy field
Tour leader: Carles Oliver (Barcelona to Lisbon) & Sergi Sales (Sofia to Cyprus)
All images by Carles Oliver. All rights reserved.
Overview: Our very first Southern Europe Odyssey has been a very funny and brave adventure. Visiting 5 European countries and 9 islands (3 in the Mediterranean; 6 in the Atlantic Ocean), we have enjoyed a very long list of European and Macaronesian endemics and specialities. The tour has been divided in different sections so our guests could join the part they were most interested about. Very looking forward to go on again with this crazy adventure!
Day 1. From Barcelona to Picos de Europa. Our Odyssey through South Europe, an ambitious program visiting 5 countries and 9 islands started in a very epic way; a 3:00am pick up to try to catch up with some nocturnal birds. Very close from the Barcelona airport we had a first stop. It is a small area of farming with some lines of trees, some of them with several holes. Here we started looking for European Scops Owl. It was clearly colder than expected. During the previous weeks we had low temperatures clearly below average in Catalonia, with strong snow falls up in the Pyrenees. That morning, the temperatura drop to only 7ºC!
Along the next half an hour we tried to have any view on the Scops Owls living in the area, but little success. We heard them as we heard Little Owl and Western Barn Owl but we no success to see any of them. But the situation turned on when a close a Scops Owl suddenly came to us from the inside the canopies and landed only by the path, 150 centimetres high! We all had excellent views on the bird and a couple of shots before the bird came back deep inside the vegetation. Still excited about such good looks, we heard a second bird calling down the path,, very low in the trees and only a few meters away from us. A few second after that we got the bird singing in the torch, allowing not only really good views but also a number of shots! Very happy for this success we drove up the valley to try a second bird. By the time we arrived the raising was in the sky, and the first Nightingales were singing. It was still cold and a bit early in the season so I was not very sure that the whole thing could work. But it did, and at the second attempt a very nice Red-necked Nightjar emerged from the shadows and flew directly above the group to show the large white markings in the tail and a wings, and the lovely orangish coloration in the underwing coverts. The bird was singing, probably right arrived from Africa and busy to mark its territory!
Eurasian Scops Owl (Otus scops) was a major target for many in the group, and we enjoyed great views next to Barcelona. Image by tour leader Carles Oliver.
Very happy with this excellent sight, we drove West, living behind Barcelona, that was only about to wake up in another busy day. It was about 6:30 when we stop in a quiet service station to have some breakfast. A selection of coffees, orange juices and potato omelette was served and we had some time for relax after the early start. Here the group had also the chance to meet Sergi Sales, the leader for the Eastern part of the Odyssey as he was on his way to lead a day trip out of Barcelona with a birder from Japan.
From here we kept going West for about 30 miles, and our first birding stop with daylight was devoted to a lovely patch of traditional farming. Here, the Catalan Government is taking efforts to manage the habitat and preserve some spots for the very endangered Little Bustard. At the first stop of the van, we got excellent scope views on a displaying Little Bustard, and during the next 90 minutes we had 6 different males chasing each other or simply singing from their lekking positions. A Montagu’s Harrier female was also one of the first birds for us, but even before that we got a distant male Red-footed Falcon sitting down on some dead branches. Certainly a very good start for the trip! Several Calandra Larks and Corn Buntings were seen, as White Storks, Stock Dove and Western Jackdaws were. We kept moving through this great habitat, adding good looks on specialities like Stone Curlew and Iberian Grey Shrikes but also migratory birds including Northern Wheatear and the always very nice looking Whinchats. Common Kestrels, Marsh Harriers, Red Kites and Black Kites were all seen, and we also had time for a short visit to a nesting colony of Lesser Kestrels, where we had some nice scope views on the birds. But probably one of the best birds on this location was the nice pair of Great Spotted Cuckoos chasing each other quite high in the sky! A quite unexpected view. Here, we also got the first Short-toed Eagle for the trip.
We could stay there longer, but we were committed with some extra specialties along our long way to Picos de Europa. Our next movement was to visit another area inside the Catalan dry lands. Here we got nice views on both Black Wheatears & Black-eared Wheatears plus Spotless Starling, Thekla Lark and some lovely views on European Turtle Doves. The area was also rich on Finches and Greenfinch, Serin and European Goldfinch were all seen before we stoped by a puddle. Here another singing Common Nightingale was waiting for us, and we got nice views on the first Sardinian Warblers of the trip along with migratory Pied & Spotted Flycatchers. Again, European Turtle Doves were present in the area, joined this time by European Bee-eaters and Griffons flying over our heads. In the water, only a Eurasian Moorhen was seen.
Little Bustard (Tetrax tetrax) landing on its lek spot in the Catalan steppes.Little Bustard (Tetrax tetrax), a species which dramatically decreasing in Western Europe. That morning we were very lucky to have close views on Stone Curlews (Burhinus oedicnemus).One of the two Great Spotted Cuckoos (Clamator glandarius) that flew over us.Iberian Grey Shrike (Lanius meridionalis).Black Wheatear (Oenanthe leucura) showed distant but very well in our stop at Mas de Melons NR.
From here we had some solid drive West, with some comfort stops in the way. Our next birding stop didn’t come until mid afternoon, in the border between The Basque Country and Castille. Here we spent some time in a riverside forest. It was slightly windy and the bird activity was light. Some Greenfinches were feeding in the area along with Eurasian Blackcap. But a short walk around the area fastly put us in contact with our main target here. One Iberian Chiffchaff was singing low in the riparian vegetation and a few moments later we were all enjoying wonderful views on the bird! During about 5 minutes, the bird was singing around us and flickering the winds, showing way better we were expecting. Along the next 20 minutes we saw at least 4 Iberian Chiffchaffs and also got really good looks on Cetti’s Warbler, Eurasian Wren, Eurasian Goldfinches, Great Tits and a family of Short-toed Treecreepers moving in the thick trunks along the Ebro River. Along the banks of the river, a Common Sandpiper completed the list for the place.
From here, we still had to cover one hour of drive to our final destination at the heart of Picos de Europa.
Iberian Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus ibericus), one of the most sought-after species for some of the tour participants!
Day 2. From Picos de Europa to Belchite. After enjoying a great breakfast we drove into the mountains. It looked like a quiet morning, and the towering landscape allowed us to connect with some Griffon Vultures in our way to Fuente Dé cable car. We arrived earlier than expected, and we gather at the access queue. A powerful brise started to blow, and our concerns about the cable car being open that morning started to arise. In the queue we picked up Coal Tit, Goldcrest, Eurasian Nuthatches, Common Chaffinch (the first Chaffinch species of the many to come in this Odyssey) and Black Redstart, all of them new for the trip. The minutes went out, the queue grew at the same rhythm that our concerns did, and our worst thought came truth when the staff attending the cable car confirmed that the cable car was not to be open that day. A last minute change in the weather broadcast made the conditions unsuitable for the cable car to run in a safe way. Devastated by the news, we had a couple of strolls around, hoping to connect with some good birds. It was certainly still a slim chance for cable car to open, so we decided to invest a couple of hours wandering around. Along this time we got nice views on Firecrest, Song Thrush, European Crested Tit, Dunnock, Eurasian Treecreeper, Blue & Great Tits, Linnets, European Stonechats and lovely views in some Rock Buntings. Both Alpine & Red-billed Choughs were seen, even if the first were far up in the sky. A low Egyptian Vulture was one of the final sightings. At the end, the day turned into a grey, windy one. Back to the van, we started driving back Est, expecting to arrive to our next accommodation at the Ebro Valley about sunset.
In the way, several White Storks we had a number of birding stops. Along the rivers, we got ruff views on a speedy Common Kingfisher, but also on the first Long-tailed Tits and Grey Wagtails of the trip. Several Griffons were seen here as well. Back to the road, we crossed a large area of altitudinal plateaus covered with low scrublands. A wonderful habitat for a number of species, and a couple of stops in our way allowed us to connect with a Woodlark singing from a wire, but also with a massive flock of Common Rock Sparrows A bit beyond, another stops was mandatory to enjoy a Golden Eagle passing really close of the van. The bird, a full adult, was circling above the road. Once with the foot on the ground, we found close Cirl Bunting, Western Yellow Wagtail in the fields around and Sonja got a nice Common Cuckoo landing into a large tree right in front of us! The rest of transfer was a bit more quiet, and only a couple of Short-toed Eagles and a hunting Montagu’s Harriers deserve our attention.
But before going to the accommodation we still had a very short stop around the village, and we were lucky enough to find a lovely Little Owl sitting on the top a pile of rocks. The Owl offered really good looks and some photo opportunities despite the poor light, and this final stop was complemented with the very last bird of the day, a nice European Nightjar that was flying around!
European Crested Tit (Lophophanes cristatus), one of the most celebrated birds in our morning at Picos de Europa. Common Rock Sparrow (Petronia petronia). We enjoyed large flocks between Picos & Los Monegros. Short-toed Eagle (Circaetus gallicus) feeding on a Montpellier Snake (Malpolon monspessulanus).
Day 3. Ebro Valley to Ebro Delta. Just arrived to the habitat, we heard a singing Dupont’s Lark not far away from us. Mediterranean Short-toed Larks were very active, but our attention was concentrated in Dupont’s, a scarce and often difficult to see bird. After a fast scanning, I found the bird singing from a tiny tussock, and I tried to put directions so everybody could enjoy. Unfortunately the bird came down to the ground and started running, and most of the tour participants only got partial views on the bird moving around. The Dupont’s vanished in the vegetation and we decided to wait and see if it was reappearing, but after 10 minutes 3 Pint-tailed Sandgrouses crossed the road, flying into a nearby pond. We immediately took our change and approach the pond, trying to get better views on the birds. We could not find them, but then 2 Black-bellied Sandgrouses flew over, provided good looks. Dupont’s Larks were still singing around, but we were still unable to find anything beyond 2 Thekla’s Larks having a bad argument in the steppes. And then Keith appeared and said the magic words: “I found a roosting Nightjar”. We inmediatly moved to into the bushes. He flushed the bird, that got deep inside the bushland. We had to move carefully to don’t disturbed again. Only a few minutes later we got the bird again, an European Nightjar, roosting really deep inside a bush. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, all clients got to see the bird! But just at the moment to take some shots, the bird flew out, stopping not far. We tried a second a approach, and this time we got nice flight views before it got really deep inside a large bush!
Just back to the van, we decided to try a different strategy to get Dupont’s Lark. We drove through some good habitat, and only 2 minutes later Keith spoiled us again by finding a wonderful Dupont’s Lark walking just beside the vehicle. The bird was only 10 meters away, and all tour participants had good views on the bird as it was moving and feeding among to tussocks of vegetation.
A last stop before leaving this hotspot produced good views in the only Western Orphean Warbler of the trip. Here we also enjoyed European Turtle Dove, migratory Willow Warbler, Woodchat Shrike and fly over Booted Eagle.
Mediterranean Short-toed Lark (Alaudala rufescens) in typical habitat. Dupont’s Lark (Chersophilus duponti) showed really and in different views, despite the rather distant images. European Turtle Dove (Streptopelia turtur) is nesting in good numbers in the grasslands.
It was a sunny day, and in our transfer to Ebro Delta we had a nice lunch stop in one of the many gorges in the area. Here we got lucky again and the whole group enjoyed great views on Western Bonelli’s Warblers but also Peregrine Falcon, Red-rumped Swallows and distant but showy Blue Rock Thrush.
We arrived to Ebro Delta, following the channels and paddyfields covered by hundreds of Glossy Ibises, Whiskered Terns and Herons the many species including Squacco Herons and Purple Herons. A first stop was done in a typical spot for migratory passerines and we got excellent views not only in Willow Warblers but also in 4 Pied Flycatchers, Garden Warbler, Spotted Flycatcher, 1 Melodious Warbler (the only Melodious for the Odyssey), 7+ Eurasian Golden Orioles, Woodchat Shrike, Common Chiffchaff, 3 Common Whitethroats and 1 Common Redstarts. Happy with such array of birds we move to a second spot. Always surrounded by Stilts and Marsh Harriers in our way, we did arrive to a El Violí area, a nice marsh surrounded by lagoons. A relaxed walk around provided a massive list including goodies such as Pied Avocet, 4 Red-crested Pochards, Western Swamphens, Purple Herons, 4 Collared Pratincoles, Penduline Tit, Eurasian Spoonbills, Spotted Redshanks, Great Reed Warblers, good views on 3+ Little Bitterns and migratory Whinchats.
And with the evening shading we just drove the short distance to our accommodation.
Our transfer to Ebro Delta crossed some of the best areas for raptors in Catalonia. Here a gorgeous Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos) seen from a highway. Winchats (Saxicola rubetra) are migratory birds along the Catalan coast. Here a wonderful male! Great Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus arundinaceus) singing his heart out in the reedbeds at Ebro Delta.
Day 4. Ebro Delta – Mallorca. After enjoying a nice breakfast we move to our first stop. It was another sunny day and we went to check the largest lagoon in Ebro Delta. Here, along with the several Common & Whiskered Terns, Swamphens and Audouin’s Gulls we also got really nice views on Caspian Terns and, more importantly, some summer plomaged Mediterranean Gulls that were displaying in an island. This was an important target for some of our guests, and it was really celebrated, especially when some Med Gull decided to come right above us, providing wonderful views to everyone in the group. The stop also provided good scope views on Savi’s Warbler, a scarce nesting bird at Ebro Delta and, more surprisingly, we also got good scope views on 2 Common Reed Buntings. The Reed Buntings nesting here belong to the extremely endangered witherbyi race that has only a few tens of nesting pairs left in Catalonia! Very happy for this very good array of birds, we move North for a last stop in this amazing wetland before heading back to Barcelona.
The last stop was as good as the first one and here, in a swallow water inner bay we got very nice views on 20+ summer plumaged Red Knots joined by 4 drake Curlew Sandpipers! Along with them, Bar-tailed Godwits in summer colours, Eurasian Curlew, Kentish Plover, Eurasian Oystercatcher (the only one for the Odyssey!) and 1 Osprey.
We drove back to Barcelona to take the plane connecting us with Mallorca, but it was still time for a final before leaving Catalonia.. Very close to the airport, we visited a place for the endemic Iberian Green Woodpecker. It didn’t even take us a minute to connect with the bird! Amazingly, one of this woodpeckers just flew parallel to the van for some meters, stopping close to the van and allowing us time to get out of the minivan and connect with it in a very pleasant way. In addition, we also got 2 Hooded Crows, a substantial part of the tiny population recently established around the Catalan capital city. It was too easy! So, we still had time. I asked the people if was fancy to try for Dartford Warbler nearby. No was not an option, and everybody agreed. Ten minutes later we were on place and, guess what, a pair of Dartfords just flew around us to provide some views.. Everybody was happy so now, yes, was time to take a plane and deep into the Mediterranean!
Arrived to Mallorca in the early afternoon, we collected our minibus and drove directly East expecting some goo evening light. That evening, the island was covered with a sheet of light clouds, creating the perfect conditions for some sea watching. We wouldn’t be disappointed and within the next 45 minutes we enjoyed of tens and tens of Scopoli’s Shearwaters passing by our cape, some of them at close range. Along with them, small clocks of Balearic Shearwaters were also in the move to their nesting grounds at Cabrera island. In addition, here we also got the only Northern Gannet of the whole Odyssey and, more importantly 2 Shags, another target species for some of our guests!
Eurasian Penduline Tit (Remiz pendulinus) keeps expanding at Ebro Delta. Mediterranean Gull (Ichthyaetos melanocephala) was really celebrated by some tour participants.Red Knots (Calidris canutus), Curlew Sandpipers (Calidris ferruginea) & Black-bellied Plovers (Pluvialis squatarola) in nice summer colours. Slender-billed Gulls (Larus genei) right in time before we transferred back to Barcelona.
Day 5. Mallorca. Before breakfast we had a short walk exploring the cliffs South from our accommodation. No migrants were found, but we got nice views on a singing Blue Rock Thrush, 2 Pallid Swifts, several Mediterranean Flycatchers and a nice family of Hoopoes. Out in the sea we had distant views on both Scopoli’s & Balearic Shearwaters + a couple of (Mediterranean) Shags. After we enjoyed our delicious breakfast, we went off to meet Jason, our local guide during our full day in the island. Jason is British but his roots in Mallorca are already deep, and this includes his great skills when speaking Catalan in the delicious Mallorcan variation!
It was a very sunny morning and our first movement was to go on with a short walk through some coastal scrubland. Here, it didn’t take long before we contacted with 2 nice Balearic Warblers, and the group enjoyed nice views on this endemic while was moving in an out a bush. Sometimes it came to the top of the bush to sing, but we often had to fight to have proper views on it.
Crossing the island, we headed to Serra de Tramuntana and in the way we caught a migratory Montagu’s Harrier flying very low over the fields. Here, the impressive rocky slopes are home to a good number of specialities. The first to appear were 2 Cinereous Vultures along with 5 Griffon Vultures. Back on the ground, we got nice views on a Tawny Pipit and several Mediterranean Flycatchers. We still had to walk a bit more to see the first Moltoni’s Warbler of the trip, but at the end it provided great views along with 2 other individuals. Back to the van, we still had 3 Common Crossbills passing over us. It was already midday when we left the hills, going this time to the Northern part of the island to explore its main wetland. By the time we arrived to S’Albufera the weather was already cloudy and allowed us to walk inside in a fresh ambient that is uncommon for the season. Some Gull-billed Terns welcomed us to the marshes, and as we walked inside we had time to enjoy the wonderful mixed colony of Squacco Herons, Glossy Ibises, Little Egrets and Night Herons with many birds showing out their best colours! From the hides, we got really good views on Red-knobbed Coots but also 3 Marbled Teals and the firsts Little Ringed Plover and Common Snipe of the tour. Once out, we got excellent views on a family of Red-knobbed Coots feeding their chicks in the path itself only a few yards from us!
To end the day, we had a stop in some farming area. Here we got really good views on Thekla’s Larks but also (Balearic) Woodchat Shrikes and Red-legged Partridges before going back to our accommodation for a well deserved rest.
Mediterranean Flycatcher (Muscicapa tyrrhenica) just by our accommodation. Balearic Warbler (Curruca balerica) fighting to not get in the image!Moltoni’s Warbler (Curruca subalpina) on its typical Mediterranean habitat.Marbled Teal (Marmaronetta angustirostris), Red-knobbed Coot (Fulica cristata) & Common Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna) at S’Albufera.We got lucky and enjoyed some very tender sights on Red-knobbed Coots (Fulica cristata)
Day 6. Mallorca – Tenerife. After enjoying a very nice breakfast, we drove back to Palma, but with a stopover at Salobrar de Campos. Again, we got really few migrants, but excellent views on Kentish Plovers, Black-winged Stilts, Pied Avocets, Greater Flamingoes and a couple of obliging Western Yellow Wagtails.
We landed in Tenerife in the early afternoon and 10′ behind schedule, but we collected the van very quick. At Tenerife Airport, a new Odysseer joined the expedition, and we all left the airport with more energy than ever, heading to the pine woods mid way up to the Teide volcano, the tallest mountain in the Canary Islands.
We had time for a good afternoon stop so we drove up into the slopes of the magnificent Teide (a large volcano that is the highest mountain in the Canary Island). In the way up, we had a pair of Berthelot’s Pipits that showed superbly for the group. But the main stop was in a mature Canary Island Pine forest, where we immediately connected with a nice flock of Atlantic Canaries. Along with them, we got African Blue Tits, Great Spotted Woodpeckers and Common Ravens. It didn’t take long before we got the first Blue Chaffinch, quietly singing while perched in the out for us! We had been tracking their contact calls for some minutes, but was Bud who finally spotted the bird! During the coming 40 minutes we enjoyed several views on Blue Chaffinches, both males and females while feeding on the ground, chasing each other or having more than words with one of the Great Spotted Woodpeckers around.
Totally satisfied after this first stop in the Canary Islands, we just drove to our accommodation to enjoy an extraordinary dinner!
Kentish Plover (Anarhynchus alexandrinus) in Mallorca.Berthelot’s Pipit (Anthus berthelotii) close up.Tenerife Blue Chaffinches (Fringilla teydea) provided great looks in one of the typical places for the species (above & below). Echium wildpretii, a gorgeous endemic plant from the Canary Islands (Teide NP).
Day 7. Tenerife. Early morning breakfast for the group before transfering North of the island to look for the many specialties living in the laurel forest. It is a fresh day and as we park we soon enjoy views on Atlantic Canaries feeding around and the distinctive Canary Island Chiffchaffs being very active. ACommon Buzzard soars the sky, and we are surprised by the good activity of Bolle’s Pigeon feeding in the canopies, flying around and flocking in the trees that holds their food. We spent some time enjoying them, but our attention is required in the sky as the very first Common Kestrel in the Canary Islands appears also in the sky. As in many species here, this is a specific race, and in this case it is smaller and duller, with a distinctive tawny tint in the underneath. The Kestrel was still in the sky when a Laurel Pigeon arrives to one of the most popular trees, landing in the middle of the Bolle’s Pigeon, but out of view. As we concentrate our efforts in locating this bird, a secondLaurel Pigeon flies into some large Pines, but only Keith manages short views on the bird while it is perched in the outer branches.
We still spent some time in the parking before starting our walk, but we never had any other Laurel showing here. The path we are following goes up the hill and gets inside a very interesting, almost pristine, laurel forest. In our way up, some European Robin (race superbus, considered as a full species in some lists) show up, producing really good looks. A bit beyond we also find the recently split Canary Island Chaffinch while a small flock of Plain Swift is flying around us and a pair of Eurasian Sparrowhawk is soaring the sky. We spent most of the morning in the area, but we could not get any further view on Laurel Pigeons. Instead, some lovely Tenerife Goldcrest (race teneriffae, another serious potential split) provided the group with excellent views!
Back to the van, we drove a short distance to enjoy a typical Canarian meal. We were all happy after the many sightings on Bolle’s Pigeon (35+ birds!) and all the other endemics. We were about to leave Tenerife but we wanted better views on Laurel Pigeon so in the way back a fast stop was done and from here got excellent views on at least 18 Laurel Pigeons! They were very active, flying along the slopes. Two or three times we got scope views on perched Laurel Pigeon and all 4 scopes concentrated on them! By 14:30 we were back to the airport. We had “cleared” the island in less than one day!!
We took a commuter flight to Fuerteventura. But, by the time we arrived there it was already a bit late in the afternoon. Still, a last stop was made by a pond where we had the first Ruddy Shelducks and Laughing Doves of the trip plus good looks on 2 very attractive summer plomaged Dunlins, 1 Little Ringed Plover, 1 Yellow Wagtail, and some Egyptian Vultures, very active despite the strong wind.
Canary Island Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus canariensis) showing the broad eye brow and the long, rather decurved bill. Tenerife Robing (Erithacus rubecula superbus), a serious candidate to become full species.Tens of Bolle’s Pigeons (Columba bollii) were feeding in the wood lands, but always conveniently far..The recently split Canary Islands Chaffinch (Fringilla canariensis) has become a new endemic of the islands. At the end we enjoyed at least 18 Laurel Pigeons (Columba junoniae) feeding and gathering in a gorge.
Day 8. Fuerteventura. It had been a windy night, and when we gathered at the lobby of our accommodation for a pre-breakfast exploration of the desert around, I have to confess that I was a bit worry about the possibilities of get the birds during the day. We drove the short distance to a good location for some desert birds. As we drove in, the first lights of the day revealed some Yellow-legged Gulls in the move. Surprisingly it didn’t take long before we found a wonderful male Houbara Bustard standing up at a short distance from the minibus. we all got great views and we could track a bit the large bird as it was moving in the desert. At some point we lost track, and kept driving a bit beyond only to find a female Houbara Bustard. We stop and decided to walk out of the vehicle so everybody could have a good chance for views and photos.
As we were enjoying the female, we suddenly got the male coming from the opposite side of the track and, for our surprise, started displaying only 100 meters away from us. The display on this species is admirable, as they become a wonderful white ball, starting running up while is converted in a snow ball. We saw the bird displaying for long, and even crossed the small road in the search of the female that was running the opposite slope.
Once we enjoyed very much this splendid moment, we decided to come back to the accommodation and enjoy a well deserved breakfast.
After breakfast we left our accommodation and drove West in the search of proper habitat for the other main target in the island. Even before arrived to the place we had to slow down. A very nice Egyptian Vulture was feeding on the ground along with Common Ravens. A bit beyond, we started scanning the endless rocky desert that host many of the good birds living in the island. Soon, we got 3 Black-bellied Sandgrouses flying into the plain and stopping in the rocky plain. It took us a couple of minutes to figure out where they landed, and a gentle approach allowed us to have very close views on all 3 birds; 2 males and 1 young. A marvellous morning light was on the birds, and the photographers in the group enjoyed this very much. We parked a bit beyond and had a stroll along a wide valley. A small reservoir of water that serves for irrigate some areas around is the best wetland in the island. We got some Black-winged Stilts and 3 Little Ringed Plovers but, unfortunately, nothing else. Small flocks of Sandgrouses were mobile in the area, probably attending the water pond in a place out of view. We got amazing flight views, with several flocks calling as they were crossing the valley at full speed. We counted a minimum of 18 individuals.
A few moments later we got the a nice pair of Fuerteventura Chats moving in the dry river bed. They were a bit far away so we decided to walk down the slope and a few minutes later we were enjoying really nice looks in both, male and female. The male appear to be a bit dirty due to the muddy river bed. Several flocks of Sandgrouses flew over us and 2 Cream-coloured Courser joined them at some point! A further walk through the habitat allowed us to have ruff views on Trumpeter Finches but close views on both 2 Stone Curlews, the Canary Islands race of Great Grey Shrike and Spanish Sparrows. Very distantly, a Barbary Falcon showed out briefly chasing a small bird.
We went back to our accommodation for some lunch. Outside, the wind started to blow in a very serious way and our perspectives for an afternoon birding almost vanishes. Still, we decided to go out and try to catch up with something else. This time we went to the famous Tendaya plains, and we were delighted with our choice from the very beginning. Not even arrived to the habitat we had to spot to admire a flock of extremely close Black-bellied Sandgrouses feeding inside a enclosure for goats. They were feeding along with Collared Doves, a bit grotesque if you want, but equally enjoyable! Only a few yards beyond we made a stop to explore some nice bushland. The Great Grey Shrikes kept down in the habitat, away from the strong wind, but our walk was rewarded with solid views on 3 Spectacled Warblers, 1 migratory Spotted Flycatcher and 4 Barbary Partridges moving a bit far away from us. The area was full of Trumpeter Finches and we all enjoyed great views on these little gems. The surprise of the afternoon was a nice female Eurasian Golden Oriole but the wind started to get really serious. It was probably time to move back. In the extra time, we still had a gorgeous female Houbara Bustard walking along the mini vas, and providing great looks in the wonderful afternoon light.
A superb Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata) in full display was the best of our pre-breakfast outing in Fuerteventura. Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus) has in Fuerteventura one of the few non-migratory populations of this species worldwide. Black-bellied Sandgrouse (Pterocles orientalis) melting with the landscape.Fuerteventura Chat (Saxicola dacotiae), endemic from that island and with a fastly decreasing population.Spanish Sparrow (Passer hispanoliensis) We were lucky to enjoy extremely close views on some Black-bellied Sandgrouses (Pterocles orientalis), including this female. Trumpeter Finch (Bucanetes githagineus) close up. Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata)
Day 9. Fuerteventura – Gran Canaria. We woke up in Fuerteventura in another windy morning. In our way to the airport, we did a couple of stops to try to have some migratory birds, but we really few luck. In our stops we only got 1 European Bee-eater, 2 Dunlins in full summer plumage and 3 Western Yellow Wagtails along with Eurasian Hoopoes,Linnets and some Berthelot’s Pipits.
Once in Gran Canaria, we drove up in the hills with the hope of contacting with the extremely scarce Gran Canaria Blue Chaffinch. With an estimated population of about 50 males left, this is the most endangered songbird in the Macaronesia!
Our way up provided us the best views on Plain Swifts so far in the trip as they were feeding along the lane, showing us their flight capabilities and taking advantage of the strong wind to fly really low over the tarmac. A couple of Canary Island Chaffinch also crossed the road and a Common Kestrel (dacotiae race) was also seen hunting. We arrived to the mature pine forests that serve as a habitat for this extremely endangered species. Right arrived, we had a bird singing a number of times up in the canopy. It was midday, and we were surprised to listen the bird singing. Unfortunately we couldn’t locate the bird, and we hang around some time, convinced that the finch could not be really far away. During this time, we got nice views on the Gran Canaria Chaffinch, and enjoy very much with a pair of Great Spotted Woodpeckers that were attending a nest nearby. Some Atlantic Canaries were also active, feeding in the area so our Chaffinch could not be far away!
We dispersed a bit, and finally was James who found the feeding along with some Canaries. The bird flew off, landing next to Dorothy, who pointed out the bird and anyone in the group could enjoy close views on this extremely scarce bird! Mission accomplished, and in less than 1 hour, so we still had time to go down to the coast and try to contact with the long staying Sudan Golden Sparrows in a urban parc in the capital city of the island. Here we got Ring-necked Parakeets, the long-staying (and ship assisted) Pied Crow, Eurasian Blackcaps and intimate views on Canary Islands Chiffchaffs and Atlantic Canaries. But, unfortunately, we never saw the Sparrows.
From here, we still have a drive to our accommodation, where we had a wonderful dinner in a local restaurant. Well, the clients had a wonderful dinner and the tour leader got his tiramisu stolen by some guests!!!!!!! How is this even possible!?!?
Gran Canaria Blue Chaffinch (Fringilla polatzeki), an extremely endangered endemic songbird.The amazing cliffs of Gran Canaria, a nesting site of Barolo’s Shearwaters. Happy faces after contacting with Gran Canaria Chaffinch!
Day 10. Gran Canaria – Madeira. This was basically a transfer day. With the few time available we tried again the Sudan Golden Sparrows but, as a local birdwatcher told us, they seemed to be vanished from their normal spots.
In the evening we landed in Madeira and we directly went to our accommodation for some rest.
Atlantic Canary (Serinus canaria) in a urban park in Las Palmas.
Day 11. Madeira. Relaxed morning to explore the outskirts of our accommodation and work some of the logistics for the offshores to come. Common Sandpiper, Common Waxbills, Grey Wagtail and Lesser Black-backed Gull was the most interesting birds before we step on the boat.
Once on the ocean, We headed South and soon after we were enjoying the first Cory’s Shearwaters of the trip. The ocean was a bit rough and we had to break through several 3 metres high waves to arrive to the proper birding places. But we were not alone, since several Bulwer’s Petrels were flying around. We counted at least 10 of this very smart sea birds. Along with the common Cory’s Shearwaters we also had a small number of Manx’s since here is one of the Southernmost places where do they nest!
But everything started to pack together when we had our first Pterodroma in the air. At the beginning the bird was a bit far away but we didn’t have to wait long before the bird came closer, confirming what most suspected, we were admiring a Zino’s Petrel, one of the most scarce see birds in this part of the world!!
Nesting high in the central part of the island, Zino’s Petrel main known colony is about 200 pairs! We all got solid views in this majestic bird, and we were surprised to see a 2nd Zino’s Petrel flying a bit more far away off our ship!
In the way to back, we had a good surprise, since a Barolo Shearwater took off along with some Manx Shearwaters. Unfortunately, not everyone in the group could enjoy thi tiny Shearwater.. When arriving to the harbour, a distant Whimbrel was also a nice adding to our trip list.
Cory’s Shearwater (Calonectris diomedea) during our first Madeiran offshore.Bulwer’s Petrels (Bulweria bulwerii) were surprisingly common in our first boat trip.Zino’s Petrel (Pterodroma madeira) flying close to our boat.
Day 12.Madeira. After a nice breakfast, we went to spend the morning looking for the endemics living in the island. A first exploration close to the accommodation produced nice views on the both Madeiran Chaffinch and Madeiran Firecrest plus several Eurasian Blackcaps and a few Common Buzzards and Goldfinches. From here we moved to Funchal, where a nice short walk inside a local garden produced very nice views on the also endemic Trocaz Pigeon. Back to the accommodation, we had a free afternoon before going with our nocturnal walk up to visit the Zino’s Petrel colony.
Walking in the night in the highest mountains in Madeira is always as impressive as the first time. The scenery is abrupt, broken and has the sense of mystery and discovery that everyone is searching when travelling around the world. That night was rather cold, and the squeals of the Petrels arrived to us as distant ecos in the mist.
Madeiran Chaffinch (Fringilla madeirensis), another recent split for our group!Madeira Firecrest (Regulus madeirensis), my closest ever views on a Regulus Warbler!Trocaz Pigeon (Columba trocaz), a very impressive inhabitant of the indigenous forests in Madeira.
Day 13. Madeira. After a late breakfast, we went to the Eastern tip of Madeira, a good place to have a couple of complementary species in the island. As we parked the car, we noticed Spectacled Warblers in the low scrublands. For our surprise, James and Sonja found a nest with a female inside, probably protecting the young birds from the strong and rather cold wind blowing that morning. Both male and female were doing several visits to the nest, feeding the youngs, and both alternate on lying on the young birds.
Our walk around produced a bunch of Atlantic Canaries and good views on Berthelot’s Pipits. Spectacled Warblers were well active all around the slope. We were in search of the small population of Common Rock Sparrows living here, and we were surprised to find a female-type Trumpeter Finch instead! It was at the top of a fence, and it looked like be moving along with the several Atlantic Canaries around! This is a big rarity in Madeira, with only a handful of previous records!
Really happy to have this really good bird in our visit to Madeira, we moved a bit away to scan a slope where we previously heard the Common Rock Sparrows calling. We scanned a bit with poor results, and we were about to leave when Barbara just came to us with a great image of a Common Rock Sparrow sitting on a rock. We parked again the minibus, walked down the slope and soon we were having a nice pair of Rock Sparrows that looked like collecting food for a close nest! This last stop was nicely complemented by a Red-legged Partridge peacefully sitting on a small bare area. Even if not natural to the island, this is always a handsome bird to have.
Happy after this nice morning, we just came back to the accommodation for a nice lunch a good rest before our 2nd offshore.
Spectacled Warbler (Curruca conspicillata), inhabits low scrubland both in the coast and in the top of the highest mountains.Trumpeter Finch (Bucanetes githagineus); third record for Madeira?Common Rock Sparrow (Petronia petronia). As some islands around the Macaronesia, Madeira holds a small population of them.
This time we headed North-East, and the offshore was dominated by good numbers of Bulwer’s Petrels moving around the boat. We also had at least 3 European Storm Petrels feeding along, and we could compare this small species with 2 Wilson’s Stormies that also came along, offering very and several views. To end the afternoon we had rather distant but solid views on 1 Madeiran Storm Petrel that, unfortunately, never came close enough but that we enjoyed very much! In the way back, we had nice flocks of both Manx & Cory’s Shearwaters resting on the sea, providing some very close views..
Cory’s Shearwater (Calonectris diomedea). European Storm Petrel (Hydrobates pelagicus) showing the wide underwing band.Wilson’s Storm Petrel (Oceanites oceanicus) came, at times, very close to the boat!European Storm Petrel (Hydrobates pelagicus)Wilson’s Storm Petrel (Oceanites oceanicus) “walking” the sea.A nice pod of Short-finned Pilot Whales (Globicephala macrorrhynchus) came across our boat. Manx Shearwater (Puffinus puffinus) close up.
Day 14. Morning off. Last offshore. After having a free morning to enjoy the wonderful Madeiran wines, we assembled again in the afternoon, ready for our last offshore in this island. In our way to the harbour we were joined by a small flock of Ruddy Turnstones; 6 of them were feeding at the end of a small stream.
It was clearly less windy than the previous days, and the offshore was again dominated by the good numbers of Cory’s Shearwaters and Bulwer’s Petrels. Soon, we were again enjoying both Wilson’s & European Storm Petrels, but all the eyes turned away from them when a wonderful Desertas Petrel appeared in the sky. Darker and structurally heavier (especially when it comes to the bill) than Zino’s, we all enjoyed several views on this really unknown taxon while riding the waves!
So nice to enjoy a flock of Ruddy Turnstones (Arenaria interpres) in our way to the dock!Wilson’s Storm Petrel (Oceanites oceanicus) in mild afternoon light.Deserta’s Petrel (Pterodroma deserta) with its island as a background.Deserta’s Petrel (Pterodroma deserta) -left- versus Bulwer’s Petrel (Bulweria bulwerii) -right.
Day 15. Madeira. This day we were supposed to fly to Sao Miguel, but our flight was cancelled. We got the news early in the morning, and some of the tour participants took a guided walk around Funchal, while the rest stayed at the accommodation to enjoy some rest.
After a morning of telephone calls to make sure that our accommodation and minibus were still waiting for us at Ponta Delgada the they after, some of us reassembled again for an afternoon walk. Along the stream next to our accommodation we got a drake Glossy Ibis along with the common Muscovy Ducks. Eurasian Moorhen was also an island tick, and along with these species we got the normal selection of Atlantic Canaries, Common Waxbills, Eurasian Blackcaps and Eurasian Blackbirds. A Grey Wagtail was showing nicely in the stream, and at the far end of it we still got 4 Ruddy Turnstones feeding among the rocks. From here we got a taxi to explore the Westernmost point of the island. A walk around produced again nice views on Rock Sparrows, Berthelot’s Pipits and Spectacled Warblers. Here, 3 Barn Swallows were a new surprise. Our walk around also produced really a pair of Roseate Terns holding a territory in the Northern coast of the island. They were quite far away, but we spent 40 minutes enjoying scope views to make sure that everybody catched the absence of a black rear edge in the wings.
After this we just went back to the accommodation to get ready for a nice evening meal.
A drake Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus), a description species for Madeira. Without wind, we got several sights on Spectacled Warblers (Curruca conspicillata), like this female.
Day 16. Madeira – Sao Miguel. After our flight was delayed for one day, we finally got out of Madeira, landing in Ponta Delgada during the early afternoon. Before living Madeira we saw again the drake Glossy Ibis in the creek by the hotel, and Dorothée and Sonja had a Western House Martin flying around the airport.
Once in Sao Miguel, we directly moved to one of the strongholds for the endemic and very endangered Azores Bullfinich. In the way we got a good selection of the common birds in this island including several European Robins, Common Buzzards, Grey Wagtails, Common Starlings and Atlantic Canaries (very common here). We also got a few Common Woodpigeons, Eurasian Goldfinches and ruff views on the endemic Azores Chaffinch.
Once at the place we started looking for these small Bullfinches. For about one hour we quietly scanned the vegetation looking for movement, but we only got Goldcrests and Blackcaps singing around us. At some point we started to disperse when suddenly Keith yelled from down the path. We all ran down to find him pointing up in the hillside, where two superb Azores Bullfinches were feeding in a small tree. This was a lifer bird for all, including me, and it was really celebrated considering the few time we got to try to find it!
The birds went away after some minutes of sighting, and we walked down to the van. But we were around the van William saw something flying down inside a small creek. We went to see what it was, and James found the two Bullfinches feeding only a couple of metres away from the group, really low in the vegetation! This was a wonderful view, way better that what we were expecting to have in such a short period of time.
From here we went down to our accommodation, with one stop to have better views on the Azores Chaffinches. There, we got also really got looks on 1 Azores Noctule, the only endemic mammal of the islands, flying in full daylight! Around our accommodation, a shortstop was added to scan a small island. Beyond the small colony of Common Terns, we got to see 9 Cory’s Shearwaters flying really close to the coast in really good light.
Azores Chaffinch (Fringilla moreletti) feeding in an open land. Azores Bullfinch (Pyrrhula murina) Azores Bullfinch (Pyrrhula murina) close up.
Day 17. Sao Miguel – Terceira. Before our connection flight with Terceira, we had time to explore a bit the promenade around Ponta Delgada, where we got 3 Whimbrels and 4 Ruddy Turnstones along with the typical views on some Cory’s Shearwaters moving not especially close to the coast. A second stop was made by the Lagoa Verde, to enjoy further views on Azores Chaffinches, Azorean Common Woodpigeon, Atlantic Canaries, Common Terns, Goldcrests and Little Egrets.
Once arrived to Terceira, we had an afternoon walk around the famous Paúl de Praia Victoria. Nothing of interest was seen beyond Common Waxbills and some pairs of Moorhens and Coots and an escaped Cockatail. At the evening, a further walk produced an interesting Great White Egret (a local rarity) roosting in the lagoon.
Great White Egret (Ardea alba) roosting in Terceira.Azores Common Woodpigeon (Columba palumbus azorica), another splittable race.
Day 18. Terceira. After breakfast we walked down to the harbour, where our boat was waiting for us. That morning we had a bit of rain, but nothing really serious.
Out in the sea, we soon had the first Cory’s Shearwaters but our eyes were looking for something smaller. It didn’t take long before we got the first 2 Barolo’s Shearwaters, and soon after another 3 or 4 birds moving along with Cory’s. The difference of size was just incredible. Other small flocks were seen, with great views and also great photo chances! Beyond the Shearwaters, we had to go further South before we got the main target of the offshore. It was a bit long waiting, with the Ocean being really plain, but suddenly a wonderful Monteiro’s Storm Petrel showed out for us, performing in a great way and allowing us to see its forked tail. What a stunner!
Very glad with this great species, we just went back to Terceira while enjoying more Barolo’s Shearwaters. At the end, no less than 14 Barolo’s were seen, not bad at all!
We were lucky to get lovely views on Monteiro’s Storm Petrel (Oceanodroma monteiroi)Our group back to the harbour in Terceira after enjoying Monteiro’s Storm Petrel.Barolo Shearwaters (Puffinus baroli) were surprisingly common around Terceira.
Day 19. Terceira – Lisbon. This was basically a travel day back to Lisbon, but our midday flight allowed us some local birding before leaving Açores. A short walk from our accommodation gave us access to a very nice farmland. Keith was here the they before, and he was already enjoying the Common Quails. That was our main target for the morning and after some search we finally found the first of them. And then a second and even a third bird, all of them singing from the top of the lovely stone walls that served to mark the limits of the properties. Along with them, waves of Atlantic Canaries, Blackbirds and Blackcaps to say goodbye to these wonderful islands!
Arrived to Lisbon, we just went down the corner of our accommodation, where a very nice local restaurant was waiting for the group. It was another pleasant dinner full of fun and good mod. A perfect way to end the first half of the Odyssey!
Common Quail (Coturnix coturnix) singing from a stone edge.
Day 20. Lisbon – Sofia. Early morning flight connecting Lisbon with Sofia, the capital city of Bulgaria. Our group of guests landed and they immediately met Sergi and their local guide, but all of that will be explained soon..
List of birds seen during the tour
Mute Swan (Cygnus olor)
Ruddy Shelduck (Tadorna ferruginea)
Common Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna)
Greylag Goose (Anser anser)
Marbled Teal (Mamaronetta angustirostris)
Gadwall (Marecca strepera)
Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)
Northern Pintail (Anas acuta)
Northern Shoveler (Spatula clypeata)
Garganey (Spatula querquedula)
Common Pochard (Aythya ferina)
Ferruginous Duck (Aythya nyroca)
White-headed Duck (Oxyura leucocephala)
Common Quail (Coturnix coturnix)
Red-legged Partridge (Alectoris rufa)
Barbary Partridge (Alectoris barbara)
European Nightjar (Caprimulgus europaeus)
Red-necked Nightjar (Caprimulgus ruficollis)
Common Pheasant (Phaisanus colchinus)
Little Bustard (Tetrax tetrax)
Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata)
Common Swift (Apus apus)
Plain Swift (Apus unicolor)
Pallid Swift (Apus pallidus)
Alpine Swift (Tachymarpstis melba)
Common Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus)
Great Spotted Cuckoo (Clamator glandarius)
Pin-tailed Sandgrouse (Pterocles alchata)
Black-bellied Sandgrouse (Pterocles orientalis)
Feral Pigeon (Columba livia)
Stock Dove (Columba oenas)
Common Wood Pigeon (Columba palumbus)
Trocaz Pigeon (Columba trocaz)
Bolle’s Pigeon (Columba bollii)
Laurel Pigeon (Columba junoniae)
European Turtle Dove (Streptopelia turtur)
Eurasian Collared Dove (Streptopelia decaocto)
Laughing Dove (Streptopelia senegalensis)
Water Rail (Rallus aquaticus) —————————— heard only
All images in this trip report by tour leader Carles Oliver unless otherwise specified. All rights reserved.
Overview: 10th Pyrenees Winter Break issue. This winter in the Pyrenees has been specially unnormal. The winter started normally, with the first snowfall happening in early November. Soon, the trend changed and we faced several weeks without any snowfall and the high temperatures melted the few snow left. With temperatures ranking 25ºC in January, some high mountain specialties changed their normal routines, especially affected were Snow Finches and Citril Finches, but also Alpine Choughs. This anormal situation, made the tour a bit harder than usual. Despite all of this, we got excellent views in the high mountain specialties and many of the steppe birds, with stunning views on both Wallcreeper and Dupont’s Lark, and 8+ Lammergeiers & 5+ Cinereous Vultures seen.
Day 1. After gathering all the tour participants from their accommodations around the city and enjoy tea & coffee stop we headed to the first birding stop of the tour. During the next hour, we walked around a mosaic landscape with some large trees, bushland and crops.
Here we were delighted to see the first Iberian Green Woodpeckers of the trip, quite active in the early morning. The morning was a bit cloudy and, once again, warm for what we can expect in Barcelona in early February. Small flocks of Common Chaffinches were getting out of the fields, and along with them we saw European Serinsand Eurasian Tree Sparrows. Our walk around had a nice start, with a showy Lesser Spotted Woodpecker was calling and drumming from the top of the canopies, and we had really good looks on it for almost five minutes. In this same spot we also got Iberian Green Woodpeckers and a Ring-necked Parakeet exploring some nesting holes. Both Great & Blue Tits were active in the area, and a juvenile Peregrine Falcon did a couple of fast flights in the area, hoping to catch one of the several small birds moving. Other interesting birds here included Eurasian Hoopoe, Eurasian Jay and Common Pheasant. 3 Rock Buntings flew out from the bushes, but unfortunately none of the tour participants had a proper view on them
From the lovely plain in the Llobregat Delta we drove to a small garden around Barcelona where a White-throated Sparrow had been seen. We waited for almost one hour but, unfortunately, the Sparrow didn’t show for us. Still, a nice flock of Red-billed Leiothrix was a great entertainment for us, with some Eurasian Blackcaps and Coal Tits also showing well.
After a short stop for coffees and logistics, we drove up to the hills, with the next stop in the top of the one of the highest mountains between Barcelona and the Pyrenees. Here we had the longest walk of the trip, aiming to connect with the small population of Alpine Accentorsliving there. Fortunately we didn’t have to walk a lot before a lovely flock of at least 12 Alpine Accentors came to us to offer the group wonderful and very long views, with some of the birds performing right in front of us for several minutes! It was midday and in this small peak, normally covered with snow in early February, the sensation was of being late September! We had a comfortable 15ºC when being at 1700m above the sea level! Even in such a conditions, it was very surprising to find a femaleHen Harrier hunting in the slopes of the mountains, and moreover, to see 3 Dartford Warblers singing and chasing each other in the tall vegetation. This is only a summer visitor to this habitat, normally covered by snow. Dartford Warblers spend the winter at lower altitudes, waiting for the snow to melt and temperatures to arise up (this is normally happening by late March or early April).
From here we covered the short distance of driving to the first hillsides of the Pyrenees where, even before arriving to the planned stop, we had to do a stop in one of its minor roads, that appeared covered by hundreds of Finches. Here we got the first excellent views on Common Crossbill, with some superb males singing from the top of the Mountain Pines. Hundreds of Eurasian Siskins were calling and singing here, probably moving North to their nesting grounds in Northern Europe. Eurasian Goldfinch, Coal & Crested Tits, Goldcrestand Mistle Thrushwere all seen here, some of them providing great looks. At least 2 Citril Finches were noted inside this massive flock of birds, but they flew over almost unnoticed and I fell to put anyone in the group on the Finches, that fastly disappeared in the forest.
The afternoon was well advanced when we had our last stop of the day. This time to have some time in a lovely subboreal forest. Here, we were again surrounded by Common Crossbills and Siskins and only one minute after leaving the van we had a Black Woodpeckercalling not far away. It took us only a pair of minutes to contact with the bird, that was active with a variety of calls to finally stop in a large, dead trunk. There we enjoyed long views as the bird was first calling and then preening before going away. We still had some more time in this lovely habitat, but it didn’t produce anything else out of a pair of showy Great Spotted Woodpeckersand 1 Eurasian Nuthatch.
Close up on Common Buzzard (Buteo buteo) to start the tour.Red-billed Leiothrix (Leiothrix lutea) has a small population in the forests around Barcelona.Alpine Accentor (Prunella collaris) was worth every step un the hill!Common Crosbill (Loxia curvirostra) has been a common sight along this winter in the Pyrenees.We enjoyed rather distant but long views on Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius).
Day 2. After enjoying our breakfast in our quiet accommodation in La Cerdanya valley, we spent the next couple of hours exploring the valley immediately beside. Here, a number of selected stops produced a good list of birds that included large numbers of Mistle Thrushes and Redwings with some Fieldfares but also really good views on Short-toed Treecreeper, Common Crossbills, Crested Tit and, especially, gorgeous looks on Rock Buntings that seemed very active and ready to start the nesting season.
From here, we drove inside Andorra. All the main mountain passes in this area of Catalonia had no snow at the moment, and our only hope to find Snow Finches was to go inside Andorra and do some stops along a mountain pass reaching 2500 metres above the sea level and sky resort located nearby. Once there, we saw that the amount of snow was also really thin, and the sunny weather reduced our chances to connect with the Finches even thinner. Still, we enjoyed very lovely views on Alpine Choughs as they were feeding around the sky resort but also acting almost as Wallcreepers in the buildings around!
Crossing Andorra, we headed South towards the most impressive spot for large raptors in the Pyrenees. Even if the intense Andorran traffic made us go slowly, we arrived to the hillsides around Isona with the sun well high in the sky. Moreover, in our way out of Andorra we got excellent views on White-throated Dippers.
The rest of the afternoon we drove along a pair of tracks, with several stops to enjoy the many birds of prey in the sky. After three hours, a conservative count showed out 7 Lammergeiers, hundreds of Eurasian Griffons and 12 Cinereous Vultures. We got several excellent views, with adult Lammergeiers passing only tens of metres away from the van; Lammergeierscircling along with Cinereous Vultures; or a flock of 15 Griffonsand 4 Lammergeiers all circling together to name some of most celebrated sights. Due to the multiple stops to enjoy the several raptors in the sky, we arrived to our accommodation a bit later than expected, but with some unforgettable memories!
Rock Bunting (Emberiza cia) singing his heart out for us.Alpine Chough (Phyrrocorax graculus) Alpine Chough close up in our visit in Andorra.Lammergeier (Gypaetos barbatus), one of the several enjoyed.A pair of Lammergeiers almost touching wings. Cinereous Vulture (Aegypius monachus) has a small but healthy population in the Pyrenees.
Day 3. After breakfast, we covered the short distance from Lleida to the first gorges in the Pyrenees. Once there, we spent a couple of hours enjoying the rocky outcrops. Blue Rock Thrush had a short appearance, but Firecrests and Goldcrest gave us long views. In the cliffs, Griffons Vultures were nesting along with Rock Sparrows. In the river along the gorge, Dippers were moving up and down along with Grey Wagtails. Other birds here included Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Cirl Buntings and Sardinian Warbler.
But the main reason to come was another, and a really important one. To be fair, the Wallcreeper overwintering in the gorge didn’t take long to appear, but we had to wait a bit before everybody in the group could connect with it. Still, we were really lucky, and a Wallcreeperappeared at its typical place a bit after 10:00 in the morning. The bird was half way up in the cliff, and not very showy. We had to wait for 5 minutes before the bird, suddenly, decided to come down by the tarmac! The next 10 minutes were some of the most intense in our Pyrenean outings this winter, with extremely close views on this Wallcreeper, while the bird was moving really low along the gorge. At times, we had ti sensation of be able even of touching the bird!
Wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria) at close range. Image by Mark Dowie.Another great shot on Wallcreeper. Please note the delicate design of the undertail coverts. Image by Mark Dowie.
After enjoying such a wonderful views on the one of the main specialties living in the mountains we drove down to the plains. There, large flocks of European Golden Plovers and Northern Lapwings were waiting for us. We have our lunch stop by a small pond, where we had Northern Shovelers, Common Pochards, Little Grebes, Eurasian Coots & Teals, 2 Green Sandpipers but also large flocks of White Storks in the move from their roosting places around Lleida. The area was also good for small birds and European Stonechat, Meadow Pipit, Eurasian Skylark, Crested Lark, Chiffchaff, Linnet, Reed Bunting and Eurasian Tree Sparrow were noted.
After lunch we changed to a second pond, and our visit was granted with nice views on 7 Ferruginous Ducks, a very scarce bird in Catalonia!
Driving East, we arrived to an area with a very different landscape. Here, small but cleverly managed fields still allow a good density of Little Bustards. This species, formerly fairly common in Iberia, had become almost a scarcity, and its winter flocks have been severely decimated. A first stop was done to try to connect with a pair of Black-winged Kites nesting in the area, but we only got a small flock of Woodlarks, several Corn Buntings and multiple views on Red Kite & Marsh Harrier. A bit further, 4 Little Bustards were seen by the road, and we got good views from the van to don’t disturb the birds.
The last stop of the day was deserved to the desert-like ambients South of Lleida, where we had a short walk to enjoy the first Thekla’s Larks of the trip along with lovely flocks of Red-billed Choughs, Spotless Starlings, Rock Sparrows and a Black Wheatear that refused to show for the group! It was already quite late, but we decided to have a very last stop, and our effort was very worth. We still had to get out of the van when we listened and Eurasian Eagle Owl calling from somewhere in the valley. After a fast scanning, we decided to go for a slow short walk, and after a few metres Mark got the bird singing from a dead branch up in the hillside. During the few minutes, we got amazing scope views on the bird while some Redwings were attending their roosting site. A superb way to end another very good day!
Part of the flock of Ferruginous Ducks (Aythya nyroca) seen around Lleida.Little Bustard (Tetrax tetrax) female feeding.Eagle Owl calling from its perch. Image by Mark Dowie.
Day 4. After a sunny start of the trip, this was a grey and rainy day. A difficult weather to search for the specialties living in the steppes. Still, we went to explore the endless plains in central Monegros. A first stop in a small salty lagoon produced the only Kentish Plover of the trip along with Common Shelducks and Black-headed Gulls. From here, we got in the plains, but the muddy tracks made difficult for us to arrive to some locations. Still, we were lucky enough to contact with 2 nice Black-bellied Sandgrouses that provided flying views. 1 Little Owl was also a nice sight while flocks of Calandra & Skylarks were flying over the fields. After a couple of hours checking around the rain became heavier, and we decided to go for a service stop. It was a fortunate choice since the sky cleared right when we were leaving the coffee shop.
Back to the plains, we managed to arrive to a nice spot and soon we found a nice of 11 Pin-tailed Sandgrouses that stayed on a field for us for about 20 minutes. Here we had nice scope views with some good photo and video chances. Several Calandra & Crested Larks were singing here, and as the sun became stronger, the first Mediterranean Short-toed Larks (aka Lesser Short-toed Larks) of the trip were noted. From here we moved into a different section of the plains, and we were lucky to find a nice flock of 31 Common Cranes feeding on the ground at close range, and a closer flock of Eurasian Griffons on the ground, waiting for the weather to improve. Here we also got a nice male Hen Harrier flying over the large fields, and 2 extra Little Owls! But unfortunately the rain started again, even heavier than before and we decided to move away, trying to put some distance from the mud and the rain.
But when we arrive to our new accommodation, the rain was also there for us, and we decided to end the day after enjoying a distant view on a new Little Owl.
Pin-tailed Sandgrouses (Pterocles alchata) feeding under the rain.
Day 5. After enjoying breakfast, we headed out to the large steppes immediatly South of Zaragoza. This is a wonderful are to enjoy steppe birds, with multiple places where to go and try to find the different specialties living in the region. After the generous rain of the previous day, we woke up in a sunny day with only some clouds.
We started driving in the minor tracks crossing the steppes and soon got 2 Black-bellied Sandgrouses in a farming area. Beyond, both Calandra and Mediterranean Short-toed Larks started singing, offering both really good looks. It didn’t take long before we got a first Dupont’s Lark singing. It looked like far away, but then a second bird started singing a bit closer. Some Short-toed Larks were around, feeding and providing some photo opportunities. The wind started to pick up, but both Dupont’s Larks were still singing. We put out the scopes, trying to see them in the ocean of grass in front of us, but we couldn’t contact with the bird..
After 40 minutes of scan we decided to move away and try a different spot. By that time the wind was already strong. A new Lesser Short-toed Lark in good light was welcome by the photographers in the group, but suddenly a second bird appeared right behind the Short-toed Lark. A Dupont’s Lark sitting in the top of a small bush only 10 metres away from us!! Soon we were all having the bird and celebrating our luck.
Mediterranean Short-toed Lark (Alaudala rufescens). Lovely views on a singing Dupont’s Lark (Chersophilus duponti) after a couple of hours of waiting! Image by tour leader Carles OliverThekla’s Lark (Galerida theklae) close up to end our exploration of the steppes.
Leaving the steppes, we still had a pair of Red-billed Choughs displaying around and 2 Black-bellied Sandgrouses plus a pair of superb Golden Eagles in the highway. But certainly the wind had picked up in the last minutes. We started the final transfer to Barcelona, having a stop in a lovely lagoon with a wonderful reedbed. Unfortunately, by the time we arrived to the lagoon the wind was so strong that it was almost not possible to stand up, and we had to search refuge in a blind and even inside the van to enjoy our packed lunches. Here, we only got Gadwalls and Great Crested Grebes and the very strong wind made no possible to contact with any passerine living in the reeds.
Despite the strong wind, we still had something to add to our list and a small detour to explore a sheltered gorge produced a nice male Black Wheatear in the top of a small cliff, providing good views to all the members of the group. This very last minute sight was really appreciated, since the first contact with this species, a couple of days before, was poor and not everyone in the group actually so the bird.
After this short stop, we just transferred back to Barcelona to end our tour around the airport by mid afternoon.
All images by tour leader Carles Oliver. All rights reserved
Overview: Our 9th Pyrenees Winter Break tour started in the Pyrenees right after a strong snow fall. During the tour the weather was sunny and not especially cold in the mountains. In the plains, we had a morning with some fog, but it didn’t stop us to find all main specialties living there.
Day 1: Once all tour participants were collected from the their accommodations around the International Barcelona Airport, a short drive lead us to the Pyrenees. Only 90 minutes away from the city and we were already in a wonderful location, a mountain range hosting all high mountain birds specialties living in the Pyrenees.
It was sunny, but the day before it had been snowing so a pair of high mountain lanes were closed during the morning. Our fist stop was dedicated to explore the meadows around Bagà, where the very first birds of the day and the trip was a Lesser Spotted Woodpecker that was hunging around the parking place. Here we had some common birds in the area including Cirl Bunting, Black Redstart, Eurasian Blue Tit and Eurasian Nuthatch. Here, the terraced landscape is fulfilled with lines of Poplars and a fast scan produced the first Iberian Green Woodpecker of the tour while was moving high in the trees. Several Common Chaffinches were around, and they all moved down to the ground to feed, followed by the Iberian Green Woodpecker.
Other birds in this first stop included European Stonechat, Meadow Pipit, Common Magpie and Eurasian Greenfinch.
After this good start we drove some miles up in a lane. Our goal was to arrive to the limit of the forest (About 1800 metres above the sea level), but we were stopped by a small flock of birds. Here we had the first Mistle Thrushes of the trip along with several Common Crossbills, Coal Tits, and Goldcrests. Still, our guests especially enjoyed the views on both Rock Buntings and European Crested Tits.
Once above the tree limit, we did another non planned stop. A gorgeous Lammergeier (aka Bearded Vulture) was sitting in the top of a rocky outcrop just beside the road, providing the group with incredible views! Common Crossbills were also around, adding with their calls a plus on the mountainous ambients of the sight. After ten minutes of observation, the Lammergeier decided to fly away, passing over the group and providing us with unforgettable memories of that moment.
Wonderful Lammergier (Gypaetos barbatus) during our exploration of the Cadí-Moixeró Natural Park. Images by tour leader Carles Oliver
From here we drove higher. Beyond the tree limit there were mixed flocks of Fieldfares and Mistle Thrushes feeding on the snowed slopes. The weather was stable, with only a brise and some scenic clouds, and many birds were taking advantage of the good weather to feed around. Here we saw more Rock Buntings and a flock of 11 Bramblings flew off from one of the last trees up the lane.
When we arrived to the mountain pass, we found chunky three birds feeding by the tarmac. 3 wonderful Snowfinches were right beside us, but unfortunately decided to flew off and down the slope. From here we decided to go for a short walk. Common Ravens were seen around, and a Peregrine Falcon appeared in a fast, low flight going down the slope in a mission. Up to 10 Eurasian Griffons were also seen exploring the thermals before a large flock of 60+ Snowfinches suddenly appeared in a small hillside some 150 metres away from us, and started feeding on the ground. We all enjoyed very much the finch spectacle with several calls, short flights and even fights. We waited a bit, not moving, and we were rewarded with the birds coming down the hillside just beside the tarmac. After 10 minutes of observation, the birds simply decided to go up the slope again, and disappeared beyond some large boulders!
Alpine Accentor (Prunella collaris) showing nicely in our first day in the mountainsSnowFinches (Montifringilla nivalis) feeding on the slopes. Image by Carles OliverRock Bunting (Emberiza cia) is a common bird in the broken slopes around the Pyrenees.
Really happy after such a great sight, the group came back to the van, decided to explore that lane a bit more. Only a few miles away, a stop was made. Our short walk was again successful, as we found a lovely, obliging Alpine Accentor feeding really close to the road and, with some patience, we got some great shots on it. The views on the Accentor were perturbed by a large flock of 73 Alpine Choughs that suddenly appeared in the valley, offering good but rather distant views while a Lammergeier appeared again, crossing the valley in some seconds.
Really happy after this really successful start we went all the way down and did our way for the last stop of the day in a scrub hillside not far from our accommodation. It was already early afternoon, offering a calid light for the sightings to come. Our short walk up the hill produced some interesting sights including a large flock of Cirl Buntings feeding on the ground along with 2 Woodlarks, 4 Rock Buntings, 2 Redwings, 14 Rock Sparrows and the firsts Iberian Grey Shrike of the trip. In the skies, several Red Kites were moving around and we counted 3 Griffons Vultures and 1 adult Lammergeier. Here we also had the only Citril Finch of the trip, unfortunately a flying bird that provided poor views.
After this stop we just drove the short distance to our accommodation.
Day 2. After enjoying a lovely breakfast we left our accommodation. The first stop of the day was devoted to explore a lovely corner of the Segre River that crosses the beautiful Cerdanya valley. Here we enjoyed White-throated Dippers, Cirl Buntings, many Redwings and 2 Bramblings among several Chaffinches. Here we also had an Eurasian Woodcock that flew off from a nearby meadow, an uncommon bird to have here in day light!
From here we went up in the forested slopes, to spend some time in a boreal forest. As usual, the area was quite full of activity and it didn’t take us long to enjoy good views on Short-toed Treecreeper, Goldcrest, European Crested Tit, Firecrest and Coal Tit but also Common Crossbill, Goldfinch and Greenfinches. But the most celebrated sight here was a Black Woodpecker moving really low in a pine tree that offered us lovely scope views.
Happy after this lovely views we drove up to Andorra. During the hour long drive, a pair of stops were necessary to enjoy both Lammergeier and Golden Eagle. Once in Pas de la Casa we had a stop for a coffee while enjoying the urban Alpine Choughs that live around the sky resort. By the time of our arrival it was snowing a bit, providing the sight with a wonderful alpine setting!
Cirl Bunting (Emberiza cirlus) showed very well around the accommodationAlpine Chough (Pyrrhocorax graculus) under the snow fall in Andorra. Image by tour leader Carles Oliver
From here we drove back to Catalonia to have a final stop in the large fields that are the core of the Cerdanya Valley. There we enjoyed large flocks of Eurasian Skylarks, several flocks of Cirl & Rock Buntings, Meadow Pipits, Linnets and Corn Buntings but also the only 2 Hen Harriers of the tour, including a lovely male.
Day 3. Transfer to a different section of the Pyrenees. We drove West for about 90 minutes before to arrive into a small gorge in a secondary road. This was our first attempt to find a Wallcreeper, and we didn’t have to wait long! We waited for the bird in a small, old bridge, and only a few minutes after we got out of the vehicle, a wonderful Wallcreeper right in front us, providing excellent views for some minutes. The bird, always in search of insects that look for shelter in the rocky crevices, started to climb up the wall and we could follow its itinerary for several minutes. It kept doing short flights, and flickering its wings to show out its wonderful red panels (a way to keep other Wallcreepers away from that cliff).
Here we also had other interesting birds living in the cliffs including Blue Rock Thrush and Crag Martin. The Wallcreeper, after showing out for about 15 minutes, finally disappeared behind a rock, and this was the time for us to move to our next stop.
Wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria), without doubt the most sought-after bird in the mountains!
Leaving the hills behind, we drove to one of the few corners around Lleida where traditional wheat farming is still dominant. These areas host an abundant birdlife, and the number and variety of birds of prey is quite stunning. It didn’t take long before we had several views on Western Marsh Harriers, Red Kites and also Common Buzzards, some Griffons, Eurasian Sparrowhawk and even 2 Goshawks. All of this before the real goal of this stop appeared in one of its preferred trees: the long-staying Long-legged Buzzard! This bird of prey, nesting from Bulgaria to the East until the Arabian Peninsula, is a huge rarity in Catalonia and always worth a visit! This time we had excellent scope views, and also the chance to compare the size of this large Buzzard with a much smaller Western Marsh Harrier that was perched in a tree next to the Buteo hawk.
A small flock of Little Bustards had been some weeks feeding in a field nearby, and we covered the short distance to enjoy lovely scope views of 7 of this endangered bird, another victim of the farming intensification in Europe.
From this place we drove East to explore some of the dry canyons immediately South of Lleida. A pair of stops here allowed us to enjoy not only Stock Doves, Red-billed Choughs and Little Owl, but also on the scarce Black Wheatear. Here, between the abandoned terraces and the small cliffs of these canyons we were lucky enough to find a female Eurasian Eagle Owl hatching on its nest! A wonderful sight to end the third day of the tour!
Iberian Grey Shrike (Lanius meridionalis), a lovely Iberian endemic!Distant to don’t disturb the female Eurasian Eagle Owl (Bubo bubo) on its nest.
Day 4. Early start to explore the massive steppe lands South & West of Lleida. On the contrary of the previous day, the morning was foggy around the city so we decided to go up to the highlands West of Lleida to try to scape the fog. And we did it, partially.
As soon as arriving to the steppes we enjoyed large flocks of Corn Buntings but also Calandra & Mediterranean Short-toed Larks. They were feeding on the ground along with Common Linnets, Meadow Pipits and Goldfinches. It was sunny, but the fog was not far away and it was moving our way, so we didn’t have a lot of time!
We were lucky and 4 Black-bellied Sandgrouses flew off from a nearby field, allowing great flight views and nice photo opportunities. We scanned in different fields looking for Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, but we were unsuccessful. Finally, we decided to move to lower area to keep scanning. A pair of stops were necessary to enjoy Iberian Grey Shrikes and Thekla’s Larks and by we arrived to the new location the fog started catching us up. It was a pity because at soon as we arrived a flock of 14 Black-bellied Sandgrouse flew off from the field, but 8 more remained. A fast scan in the place allowed us to find 12 Pin-tailed Sandgrouses, some of them really close to us and the fog allowed great scope views despite it ruined the photo chances of the moment.
Dartford Warbler (Curruca undata) can be especially common in the steppes during winterCalandra Lark (Melanocorypha calandra) favours both extensive crops and steppe lands.Suddenly the fog appeared in our views on Pin-tailed Sandgrouses, even if close, were not shining.
Decided to escape the fog, we drove East to check another place in Los Monegros. There, around Bujaraloz, we went in the search of the small population of Great Bustards that subsists in the area. Here it was sunny and it only took us 5 minutes to find a lovely flock of 17 males walking around in a wonderful field full of flowers. After enjoying this great birds we took our time to check a pair of corners around, where we found more Pin-tailed Sandgrouses but also Merlin and 1 Golden Eagle.
It was already lunch time so we covered the short distance to a small lagoon. From its view point we had a good selection of waterfowl that included Little & Great Crested Grebes, Gadwall, Eurasian Teals, Common Pochards, Shovelers, 5 Red-crested Pochards and 1 male Pintails. The reedbeds around were having some Great White Egrets and Grey Herons and a short walk by reed produced Penduline Tits, ruff views on an elusive Cetti’s Warblers, several Reed Buntings and a shy Bluethroat that not allowed any photo. The fields around were having large flocks of Chaffinches and we were happy to pick up a Brambling from there as well!
From here we had a final stop in a different wetland very close to Lleida, where the fog was still persistent. Here we had short walk along the reeds. It was little movement, but finally our perseverance was rewarded with good views on 2 Bearded Tits that appeared really close in the reeds. They were really celebrated by the tour participants, and the afternoon ended with 2 Common Kingfishers chasing each other in the fog!
Great Bustards (Otis tarda) has only two small populations left in Aragon, and they can be harder than expected to find!
Day 5. Last morning of the trip before heading back to Barcelona Airport. This morning was devoted to explore the wonderful habitat of low, sparse scrubland where the poor understood Dupont’s Lark lives. This species is to be found in poor soils with a rich gradient of salt on it, resulting a landscape of low, scattered scrubs. The songs of both Calandra & Mediterranean Short-toed Larks were constant in the air. The morning was sunny, and the temperature was higher than the day before. We spend some time exploring the area by combining short walks and slow drives, and after less than hour we were enjoying a Dupont’s Lark while feeding on the ground. It was interesting to see the bird excavating the soil with powerful movements of its whole body, pushing its long bill into the soft soil to get a small prey before starting its short, fast runs between the tussocks of grass.
Dupont’s Larks (Chersophilus duponti) favour the poor soils around the Ebro basin. Many White Storks (Ciconia ciconia) don’t nest any more so to see them in the nest in February is not rare!
This was quite a phenomenal way of ending our tour. After this we just drove back to Barcelona, where we had a final stop around the airport to enjoy Iberian Green Woodpeckers, Eurasian Hoopoes, Zitting Cisticola and a rather unexpected light form Booted Eagle!