Arxiu de l'autor: Carles Oliver

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Quant a Carles Oliver

When I was a child I was already fascinated by nature. I was a teenager begun my passion for birds and later for reptilians, mammals and butterflies. Is for many years I'm an active member in different bird reseach and monitoring activities. I had not enough and that's why I decided to become a bird guide. Des de ben petit que he sentit fascinació per la natura. Als setze anys va començar la meva passió pels ocells, que s'ha anat ampliant progressivament a rèptils i amfibis, mamífers i papallones. Des de fa anys que participo en múltiples activitats relacionades amb la recerca i l'estudi de les aus. Fa temps que vull descobrir per altre gent la natura de casa nostra i és per això que vaig esdevenir guia ornitològic.

Cape Town Grand Tour 2024 Trip Report

  • Dates: From October 11th to 19th, 2024
  • Tour participants: 3
  • Number of species: 240
  • Tour leader: Carles Oliver

All images in this trip report by Carles Oliver. All rights reserved.

Overview: This tour explores the Western Cape province, a very interesting part of South Africa hosting very interesting endemics, including some only living in this small area of the country and are not to be found anywhere else. This was our 3rd tour exploring the Cape Town province, and despite the weather was not as good as it could be, we got a wonderful array of species including good views not only in the very sought-after endemics but also in some very interesting species at the continent level including Buff-spotted Flufftail, Marsh Owl, Quailfinch, Spectacled Petrel, Secretary Bird and Verreaux’s Eagle. Yes, the weather was a bit challenging, with a couple of days of very low temperatures and extremely strong winds. The weather conditions were neither in our side during the offshore, and we had an extremely quiet day, with nearly no wind. Still, we got a very long list of species, even if some major road works made impossible to explore one of the largest wetlands along the itinerary.

Day 1. Arrived to Cape Town from our connexion flight via Dubai, and we got our first birds of the trip in the parking lot of the airport, where we had both Cape Canary & Cape White-eye in the very first bush that we saw.

It was a lovely evening, and the short transfer to the our accommodation not only provided the group with the first views on the majestic Table Mountain NP, but also with flocks of Western Cattle Egrets and Hadada Ibises. We even got a House Crow, a very uncommon bird in the area! Once in our lodge, we still had a few minutes of birding overlooking a close estuary. There, we got several Egyptian Geese, Brown-hooded & Hartlaub’s Gulls but also Black-necked Stilts, Pied Kingfishers, Common Greenshanks, some magnificent Blacksmith Plovers and the first African Spoonbills, Cape Teals & African Oystercatchers of the tour, plus the only one Black-crowned Night Heron of the trip!

Day 2. After a nice breakfast, we left the accommodation, ready to have the first serious birding of the trip. This first day was devoted to explore a small area of the coast East of Cape Town. A 45 minutes transfer was necessary to reach the first location of the day. There, in a very impressive coastal fynbos (South African Mediterranean scrub land) we had a lovely short walk with a long and interesting list of species including several endemics. White-necked Ravens were flying over the closer houses along with a couple of Rock Kestrels. Down in the scrubs, the explosive song of Cape Grassbirds was the opening for a very interesting list of species. Soon, we had our first family groups of Piping & Red-headed Cisticolas along with Cape Buntings, Cape Wagtail, Cape Robin Chats, Cape Canaries, Olive Thrushes, Yellow Bishop and the extemelly common Southern Double-banded Sunbird and the firsts Rock Martins of the trip. Only a few metres of walk were necessary to have the first Cape Sugarbird, with a very impressive male singing only a few yards away from us. Its rather weird song didn’t distracted us from scanning from new species, and we found a very close Cape Rock Thrush looking for preys in a nearby meadow.

A bit more of walk was required to find the first Orange-breasted Sunbirds of the trip. Here the slope becomes steeper, and impressive rocky outcrops emerge to create a number of solid rock walls higher in the slope. Those fingers and the rocky tongues between them are the habitat for a very special species, and the main reason for us to visit this location. We had some hard scanning in the slopes, trying to locate this very sought-after species. After some minutes, we got nothing but suddenly Ann got a bird. A kind of “dark Mistle Thrush with its tail up” she came to described. No doubt, she had a Cape Rockjumper! Following her indications, it only took us half minute to point the scope on the bird: A wonderful male Cape Rockjumper only for ous eyes! It was mid way up the slope, but it provided long and excellent views on the scope as it kept exploring the rocky, low vegetated mountain. At some point the bird moved down the slope, and our hearts beated hard, facing the perspective of a close view. But it never happened. Soon, the Rockjumper went back up and we kept enjoying the bird whilst scanning for a possible female that never showed out. A couple of Cape Siskins flew higher in the slopes, providing a first (although poor) view for our guests. This small beauty is an endemic species of the coastal scrubland East of Cape Town, and a very important species for the trip! Other very interesting species here included the rarely seen Victorin’s Warbler and the first of many Karoo Prinias, White-rumped Swifts and Familiar Chats.

Cape Sugarbird (Promerops cafer)
White-necked Raven (Corvus albicollis)
Cape Rock Thrush (Monticola rupestris), a endemic with a really small range.
Cape Buntings (Emberiza capensis) are always so obliging!
Orange-breasted Sunbird, a superb sunbird with a very small range.
Proteas are such a fancy plants!
Red-headed Cisticola (Cisticola subruficapilla)
Cape Rockjumper (Chaetops frenatus) showing well in the scope and with a poor but clear image.
Orange-breasted Sunbird (Anthobaphes violacea) is likely to stop in the many boulders within its habitat.
Amazing views on this stunning male Cape Sugarbird as we were leaving our first stop.

After such a phenomenal first stop of our trip, we drove down from the mountains to enjoy a very nice coffee stop and (probably) the most beautiful muffins in the area! Close by, a very attractive botanical garden was waiting for us. A 30′ short walk around there was enough to discover a very nice selection of birds. Swee Waxbills were probably the most sought-after species at this spot. One pair of this little jewels were having a bath as we arrived, and we got amazing views on them. Along with this tiny birds, the walk around the garden offered us very nice looks in Fiscal Flycatchers, Amethyst Sunbirds, obliging Cape Batis and Forest Canary. Cape Bulbuls were everywhere and we had the first glimpse on Sombre Greenbuls. Here we also got the first Streaky-headed Seedeasters, Brimstone Canaries & Pin-tailed Whydahs of the trip, and a couple of Black Sawwings. Soaring higher in the sky, we got Greater Striped Swallows and White-rumped Swifts but also the first 3 Jackal Buzzard of the trip and 1 African Black Swift.

From here, a very short drive lead us to a colony of African Penguins. It is always surprising to see these wonderful birds evolving in the shallow water or simply resting in the white sand. This colony is right in the middle of a town. Do you imagine to have a short walk along the coast right next to your house when a dozen of penguins just get out of the wader to colonise that beach? This is exactly what it happened in this place, and I would pay to see the faces of the neighbours back in those days! So, now the colony has dozens of nests and a healthy population of this endangered species. We got amazing views, and also got good views on African Oystercatcher, Greater Crested Tern and a surprisingly close Bank Cormorant.

The always impressive Swee Waxbill (Coccopygia melanotis)
We had really close views on Cape Batis (Batis capensis)
Fynbos in full bossom.
This African Black Oystercatcher (Haematopus moquini) decided to have a bath right in front of us.
Colony of Cape Cormorants. Please note the White-breasted Cormorant in the top and some Crowned Cormorants in the left side.
African Penguins (Spheniscus demersus) arriving to the shore.
African Penguins drying out right after getting out of the ocean.
African Penguin enjoying the life!

From here, we drove back to Cape Town to have some time in the famous Strandfrontein Wetlands. This is a large wetland with a number of large lagoons and interesting channels. The area was not as fulfilled with waterfowl as in previous trips, but still produced a nice list of birds. Along with interesting flocks of Greater & Lesser Flamingoes and Cape Teals, we also had the firsts flocks of Spur-winged Geese. Cape Shovelers and Red-billed Ducks were also common. A single Southern Pochard was seen in flight, and a few Black-necked & Little Grebes were seen in one of the larger ponds. A small flock of 7 Fulvous Whistling Ducks had been in the place for weeks (a local rarity) and was spending the afternoon feeding along with Red-knobbed. Here we also got the first Cape Sparrows of the trip, just when a Black Crake crossed the road as a ghost!

In the channels we got good views on both Little Rush and Lesser Swamp Warblers and Levaillant’s Cisticola showed well despite the strong wind. An African Marsh Harrier was crossing the sky just went a Burchell’s Coucal was heard calling in a thicket nearby. In our way out, we had a short stop to watch the first Cape Spurfowls of the trip.

From here we went back to our accommodation to enjoy a nice evening meal before having a nice rest.

Cape Teal (Anas capensis) is, by far, my favourite duck in this region.
Cape Shoveler (Spatula smithii), a common duck around Cape Town.
Fulvous Whistling Ducks (Dendrocygna viduata) are a scarcity in the Southern tip of Africa.
Lesser (left) & Greater (right) Flamingoes feeding side by side.

Day 3. An early start was necessary to connect with our boat, leaving the harbour right after sunset. Whilst waiting for the boat to be ready, we got nice views on a Black-headed Heron roosting in the harbour and a Peregrine Falcon flying high over the bay.

It was a sunny and quiet day. Unfortunately we had a day with almost no wind, and this affected seriously the amount and diversity of sea birds during the offshore. Still, got a number of goodies, and we were really lucky to see 4 Humpback Whales in a superb manner. They jumped out of the sea several times not far from us, and one of them was splashing its fin against the water, creating a impressive sound all around the bay.

While enjoying the whales we also got the first parties of African Penguins and Brown Fur Seals leaving the security of their colonies to explore their hunting areas. Several flocks of Common Terns and Greater Crested Terns were also seen here.

Soon, we were outside the bay, and after enjoying a stop right by the Cape of Good Hope, we kept going South. Soon, we got the first Shy Albatrosses of the trip, along with some White-chinned Petrels and Subantarctic Skuas.

The sea was extremely plain and we only got the first flocks of seabirds around a large trawler. Here we got tens of Sooty Shearwaters but also Black-browed Albatrosses and we were also lucky to find a few Great Shearwaters,1 Sabine’s Gull flying quite high and a superb Northern Giant Petrel that was following the ship. Here, the only Arctic Tern of the trip was seen as well. A second trawler was not far away from us, and it was mandatory to take a look. We approached this second vessel from the back, and we were lucky find some good birds there. First it was the only one Indian Yellow-nosed Albatross of the day, this is a quite common species, but the conditions were probably too calm for them to move. A few minutes later we also found a nice Spectacled Petrel moving along with the many White-chinned’s, and at least 4 Cape Petrels. A few Cape Gannets were fishing here, providing good views to the group. Several Shy & Black-broweds Albatrosses were sitting on the water, and we enjoyed long views on these amazing beasts. We still had some time here, but we only had a small flock of 4 Sabine’s Gulls as an interesting sighting.

In the way back to the harbour we still had time to enjoy on a variety of Cormorants, including Crowned Cormorants, large flocks of Cape Cormorants and also a small colony of the critically endangered Bank Cormorant that was sharing a large granite outcrop with a Brown Fur Seals colony.

While crossing the bay we enjoyed several Humpback Whales!
White-chinned Petrels (Procellaria aequinoctialis) are common around Cape Town.
Brown Fur Seal.
Shy Albatross (Thalassarche cauta)
Northern Giant Petrel approaching the trawler.
Northern Giant Petrel (Macronetes halli)
Immature Black-browed Albatross (Thalassarche melanophris)
Shy Albatross (Thalassarche cauta)
Subantarctic or Brown Skua (Stercorarius antarcticus)
Cape Gannet (Morus capensis)
Full adult Shy Albatross
Sabine’s Gull (Xema sabini)
Great Shearwater (Puffinus griseus)
Brown Fur Seal enjoying a sun bath.
Critically endangered Bank Cormorants (Phalacrocorax neglectus) sitting on its nests.

After a nice lunch in the bay, we drove to a nearby lagoon. A short walk there produced Red-knobbed Coots but also Little Grebes and the first views of Black-winged Kite, Fork-tailed Drongo, African Darter, Whiskered Tern, White-throated Swallow and Alpine Swift. From here we just when back to our accommodation for an early end of the day.

Day 4. Leaving our accommodation, we went to the Table Mountain slopes before leaving Cape Town. Our first stop of the day was devoted to explore a small stream surrounded by interesting woodlands. Just leaving the vehicle we got a couple of Black Goshawks flying over area. A short walk here produced really good looks on scaped Bronze Mannikins, Sombre Greenbuls, Rameron Pigeons and Levaillant’s Cisticolas. Here we also got really good views on Little Rush Warblers but the main target of the stop was living low in the rank vegetation. After some wait in a quiet spot, a wonderful Buff-spotted Flufftail came out of the dense vegetation a walk right in front of me, only a couple of metres away from us! Unfortunately, not everybody in the group got to see the bird so we decided to go for a walk and, after a while, we came back to same spot to try the bird again. And we were double lucky that day since the Flufftail came out again for another short walk and this time we all enjoyed great views on the bird walking on the mud and even jumping on a log!

From here we went to the famous Kristenbosch National Botanical Garden. This is a well known birding spot in Cape Town and host a good variety of birdlife along with an impressive selection of the rich flora of the region. Unfortunately we went to visit the place on Sunday, mid morning, and the garden was really crowd. Still, we got a nice set of species including Cape Batis, Forest Canary & Forest Buzzard. The more dense areas were good to see species of the tangles including Lemon Dove, African Dusky Flycatcher, Cardinal Woodpecker and African Paradise Flycatcher. Here we also got good views on Southern Boubou and we heard some of the few Common Chaffinches still living the area after they were introduced by the British 150 years ago. Our walk around produced also good views on Cape White-eyes, African Harrier-Hawk and really good views on a roosting Spotted Eagle Owl.

Little Rush Warbler (Bradypterus baboecala), a shy inhabitant of the rank vegetation.
Levaillant’s Cisticola (Cisticola tinniens), a common inhabitant of moist vegetation and wetlands.
Average leave photobombed by a Buff-spotted Flufftail (Sarothrura elegans)
Olive Woodpecker (Dendropicos griseocephalus) working hard for food.
Dusky African Flycatcher (Muscicapa adusta ), is a fairly common bird in a variety of woodlands.
Spotted Eagle Owl (Bubo africanus) roosting in the Botanical Garden.
Fork-tailed Drongo (Dricurus assimilus)

After leaving the botanical garden it was time to leave the city and go North. Before having a short stop for lunch we had a stop on Birkenhead Drive Wetland. By then the weather was turning, and the sunny day was already becoming cloudy, and windy. Here we got 2 Maccoa Ducks and 1 White-backed Duck but also Common Greenshanks along with commoner species including a couple of Yellow-billed Kites, Southern Fiscals and the firsts Southern Masked Weaver & Southern Red Bishops of trip nesting in the reedbeds.

We kept moving North in our way to the West Coast National Park. But before arriving we had a stop by the highway. Here we got a gorgeous Black-winged Kite hunting really close to us, the first views on Southern Grey Sparrows, 3 Bokmakierie, Grey-backed Cisticolas, 4 Pied Starlings, 1 Jackal Buzzard and a wonderful Grey-winged Francolin showing in the top of some rocks. Here, we also got a singing Common Quail. Once inside the West Coast National Park the weather deteriorated really fast, and fastly became a windy, cold afternoon. We also got some rain and birding was really low. We had a short walk exploring the fabulous coastal scrub lands typical of this protected site, but bird activity was poor and we only got 1 Chestnut-vented Warbler, 1 Karoo Larks, a distant Black Harrier, 2 White-backed Mousebirds 1 Cape Longclaw deep inside the thickets. A bit disappointed for the low bird activity we decided to have a short drive. We got lucky with close views in a couple of Grey-winged Francolins. It was becoming really windy, and the light was not good to try to spot small birds in the thickets, so we tried a walk through the marshes to one of the outlooks. Despite the bad weather here we got good views on Kittlitz’s Plovers, Little Stints, Black-winged Stilts, Curlew Sandpipers, 1 Marsh Sandpiper and the bell ringed for us and we got to see the White-rumped Sandpiper that had been hanging around the area!

Once in the outlook, we got a nice selection of waders including Bar-tailed Godwits, Grey Plovers, Sanderlings, Lesser Flamingoes, African Oystercatchers, Common Ringed Plovers, 1 Sandwitch Tern and several Black-headed Herons. The weather became really bad at some point, and we decided to go to our accommodation to have some rest and a good dinner.

Black-winged Kite (Elanus caeruleus) with a prey.
Chestnut-vented Warbler (Curruca subcoerulea), a common inhabitant in the coastal scrubs.
Cape Spurfowl (Ptermistis capensis), an extremely common around Capte Town.

Day 5. This morning as windy as it was the evening before, but we had a promising sun shining in the sky. Windy. In the morning we went back to the West Coast National Park, but the wing was so strong that we had difficulties to get out of the vehicle. Our first drive produced nice views on a Southern Black Korhaan displaying. We got long views son the bird, and while enjoying the view we were surprised by two other males flying around. A bit further, another gorgeous Black Korhaan was standing right in the lane, providing stunning views! It was sunny, but windy, and the Cape Berg Adders felt comfortable in this weather. During the morning we 4 of them crossing the road or taking advantage of the warm tarmac.

We drove to the Northern area of the parc, hoping for some shelter against the wind. And we were lucky. In that area we had a nice walk in an nice area of scrubs. Here, Karoo Bush Robins and Karoo Prinias looked like being everywhere, and we also had really good views on one singing White-throated Canary and some restless Malachite Sunbirds. Walking down to an outlook dominating the bay, we also got great views on some White-fronted Plovers. Unfortunately, the outlook was not sheltered against the wind, and birdwatching from there was a bit uncomfortable. Still, we managed a good selection of bird including a couple of Caspian Terns and 1 Subantarctic Tern in summer plumage along with several Common Terns, always a treat!

Back to the vehicle, the wind became even stronger, making any birding quite hard. A couple of Black Harriers scouting the scrubs was the best sight in our way out to the West Coast National Park. The wind kept extremely strong all along the afternoon. Still, our transfer to Ceres produced a number of interesting birds, including the first Red-capped Larks, Capped Wheatears & African Pipits for the trip.

A few miles inland, we stopped in the highway itself. In the distance, a pair of Blue Cranes were walking in a field. Along with them, a very young Blue Crane was walking with them, picking on the ground and the grass, and struggling to follow their parents as they were looking for food in the meadow. This was a wonderful and highly unexpected view and in fact it came to end our day. When arriving to our accommodation the wind was still really strong, and we decided to spare the rest of the afternoon resting a bit.

African Pipit (Anthus cinnamomeus)
Two different close ups on Black Koorhans (Afrotis afraoides).
White-throated Canary (Crithagra leucoptera), a scarce inhabitant in coastal thickets.
White-fronted Plover (Charadrius marginatus)
Cape Berg Adder (Bitis atropos) offered us impressive views!
Cape Weaver (Ploceus capensis) displaying in our lunch stop.

Day 6. After a couple of days with strong winds and sparse rain, the sun raised in a quiet ambient. When we left our accommodation it was a splendid morning with a mild temperature. We covered the short distance to the karoo enjoying the voluptuous landscape along the road, but also some good birds including the first White-faced Whistling Ducks of the tour, Red-billed Ducks and the only small flock of Blue-billed Teals of the trip! A small herd of Red Hartebeests crossed the road, followed soon after by a couple of Steenboks and a Cape Grey Mongoose.

Our first proper stop was just by road. Even if we had some traffic (and its associated dust), the birding was superb. Here, a rocky outcrop is broken by a small stream, being the perfect place to get a good array of species. Small parties of Lark-like Buntings were moving everywhere and in only 5 minutes we got a fabulous list of birds including Layard’s Warbler, Common (African) Reed Warbler, Common Waxbills, Cape Penduline Tit singing from the top of small bush along the stream but also Long-billed Crombec (also referred as Cape Crombec), the first Hamerkop of the trip, several Karoo Prinias and Grey-backed Cisticolas, 2 Mountain Chats, 7 Black-headed Canaries moving on the ground and in the lower flowers, and even a Karoo Thrush. But the very best was probably a nice Verreaux’s Eagle showing up in the sky for a couple of minutes. Even if it was not really close, it was a wonderful sight!

From here we drove deeper in the karoo and a second stop produced an even longer list, with really good looks on Fairy Flycatchers, Karoo Emeromela, Nicholson’s Pipit, 1 Fiscal Flycatcher, Sickle-winged Chats, the first Pale-Chanting Goshawk of the trip, 1 Booted Eagle, 1 Karoo Chat, restless Malachite Sunbirds, several Cape Buntings and Karoo Scrub Robins, 1 singing African Hoopoe and the only 2 Dusky Sunbirds of the trip! Still, and despite our efforts, we failed to find any Cinnamon-breasted Warbler..

From here we had some drive through the wonderful karoo landscape, with stops to enjoy both Karoo & Sickle-winged Chats but also Thick-billed & Karoo Larks. We arrived to an outlook from where we a large lagoon could be seen. Several Southern Shelducks were feeding there along with other waterfowl but also Greater Flamingoes, Whiskered Terns, 4 Marsh Sandpipers, Ruffs and other waders. A small flock of European Bee-eaters move on, calling around us, even if we never saw them. The bush around was also well alive, with several chats moving around and also our only one Karoo Long-billed Lark and 1 Common Ostrich. Suddenly, a Greater Kestrel showed up in the sky, moving a couple of Yellow Canaries and 1 Barn Swallow.

Our final stop in the karoo was devoted to new rocky outcrop. Here we got excellent views on both Namaqua & Rufous-eared Warblers as they were very active in the scrubs but also our first Mountain Wheatear (also referred as Mountain Chat), 1 Ant-eating Chat and 4 very approachable Spike-heeled Larks. In the way back, 4 Pale-chanting Goshawks had been working in a remarkable spectacle just for us. A young bird was trying to compete for the hunting territory of a pair of these birds of prey, and along 15 minutes we had very close views on an air battle, with these acrobats fighting hard to keep their opponents out of its territory. It was a great way to end our morning exploration!

Back to our accommodation and after enjoying a midday break, we went to explore a nearby open lands. Very little was seen out of some Little Swifts, African Stonechats Banded Martins and passing Purple Heron. But right before dinner we had superb views on 2 Spotted Eagle Owls singing from the top of our own accommodation! What a way to end our day!

Steenbok (Raphicerus campestris) in the karoo.
The always impressive Verreaux’s Eagle (Aquila verreauxii)
Large-billed Lark
Rufous-eared Warbler (Malcorus pectoralis) showed superbly for our group!
Spike-heeled Lark (Chersomanes albofasciata) provided intimate views!
Great to see the complex design of this 2nd year Pale Chanting Goshawk (Melierax canorus)
Full adult Pale Chanting Goshawk
Typical karoo habitat
Fairy Flycatcher (Stenostira scita), a restless species that favours large and dense bush
A small flock of Black-headed Canaries (Serinus alario) up in the slopes.

Day 7. After a succulent breakfast, we kept exploring the area around Ceres, but this time we headed to the slopes. Here, we walked up a famous lane in the hope to contact with another endemic; the Ground Woodpecker. The short walk was great and we managed to have good views on Cape Siskins, Orange-breasted Sunbirds and Booted Eagles. Still, we only heard a distant Ground Woodpecker and we failed to see this key species.

A second stop was made in a mountain pass West of Ceres. Here we did have a number of minor stops, hoping to find the rather scarce Protea Seedeater (or Protea Canary), after a number of non productive stops we finally found one of them perched close to other Canaries! It was already midday and quite warm, and this final victory came along with really good views on a pair of Klipspringers resting on the boulders close to the lane.

From here we started the transfer to Bontebok National Park. In our way, apart from a lovely lunch, we enjoyed with the several Common Ostriches and crossing some nice habitat we picked up small concentrations of Blue Cranes and also a nice Common Buzzard (from the vulpinus race and often referred as a separate species; Steppe Buzzard).

Klipspringer (Oreotragus oreotragus)
Small flocks of Blue Cranes were feeding along our way

We arrived to Bontebok National Park during the afternoon, a good couple of hours before sunset. Almost immediately we got Crowned Lapwings and Cape Crows, two species that were escaping from us during the previous days. A game drive around the park produced soon small herds of stunning Bonteboks but also some scarce Mountain Zebras and Red Hartebeest. Bokmakieries looked like being everywhere in the thickets, but the very first amazing sight of the afternoon was an obliging juvenile Montagu’s Harrier that we found only a few meters away from our van! Personally, it has been the closer views on this species ever and one of the highlights of the tour!

As the afternoon advanced, Cape Clapper Larks started showing off and displaying all around us. Here we also picked up the first Cloud Cisticolas of the trip. The extensive grasslands of the park host a thriving population of Denham’s Bustards, and soon we enjoyed excellent views in these giants, with one male displaying and up to 5 birds flying at close range. In one of these nice stops to enjoy the Bustards, we got 2 Quailfinches moving out from the lane. As always with this species, it was a fast view, but soon after we got 2 more Qualfinches flying really close to us, providing proper looks! Same birds? Hard to know. We started moving out, but we had to stop because of the many Cape Robin-Chats, White-backed Mousebirds and Pin-tailed Whydahs along the way. Here, a couple of Spotted Thick-knees crossed the lane, and a bit beyond two Black Harriers provided good looks as well. But the best was still to come, in our way back, a Black-winged Kite was harassing a bird, and what was our surprise when we saw that the Kite was actually harassing a Marsh Owl! We were lucky, and a minor track lead us right by where the action was going on. And yes, a pair of amazing Marsh Owls were patrolling its territory right in front us. Unfortunately they were not as close as they were only one minute ago, but we all still had a great views in these incredible creatures. Marsh Owls are extremely scarce in Western Cape, with only a handful of known territories, and they are actually a description species for the area!

Back to the vehicles, we just drove to the gate of the National Park, but before leaving we found a nest of Black-winged Kites. The nest was so close and low that it was possible to see the chicks on the nest even without bins. Cleverly, we decided to keep going immediately and to do not disturb them. From here we just went to our accommodation to enjoy a wonderful dinner and rest.

Young Montagu’s Harrier (Circus pygargus), a nice way to start time in Bontebok National Park.
Cape Clapper Lark (Corypha apiata), a common lark moisty grasslands.
A taste of the great views that we had on Denham’s Bustards.
Bontebok (Damaliscus pygargus), for me, the most beautiful antelope in Africa.
A pair of Spotted Thick-knee (Burhinus capensis) was a rather unexpected sight
Red Hartebeest (Alcephalus busephalus caama) in golden hour
Marsh Owl (Asio capensis) came out from its day roosting place just in time!

Day 8. The day started foggy and rainy in our accommodation, and our pre-breakfast walk produced little out of a distant Red-chested Cuckoo, 1 Tambourine Dove, Bar-throated Apalises and Rameron Pigeons. After breakfast, we drove South in the way to have some birding in the well known Agulhas Plains, half way down to De Hoop Nature Reseve.

Agulhas Plains was as great as always. The rain vanished and with the sun and the mild temperatures came the birds. The area was full of Red-capped Larks, African Pipits, Capped Wheatears, African Stonechats and Red-billed Queleas. Large-billed Larks were singing along the fences. We were also lucky to get at least 3 Agulhas Long-billed Larks and a minimum of 5 Cape Vultures, an endangered species with only a couple of colonies in the Western Cape. Here we also got good numbers of Blue Cranes feeding in the harvested areas along with the firsts Zitting Cisticolas of the trip. Pearl-breasted Swallows were patrolling the streams, and small flocks of the tiny Grey-backed Sparrow Larks were also enjoyed. Once closer to the nature reserve we started enjoying the first mammals, with small herds of Springboks and Elands roaming the slopes while the first Denham’s Bustards of the day became evident.

Rameron Pigeon (Columba arquatix), a common beauty in many parts of Africa.
Sombre Greenbuls (Andropadus importunus) are far easier to hear than to see
African Black Duck (Anas sparsa), often a shy species.
The very impressive landscape in our accommodation.
Capped Wheatear (Oenanthe pileata), a common inhabitant of extensive farming
Large-billed Lark (Galerida magnirostris) close up
Pin-tailed Whydah (Vidua macroura) is not scarce at all
We were lucky to have amazing views on Agulhas Long-billed Lark (Certhilauda brevirostris)
Blue Crane (Anthropoides paradiseus), what a smart creatures they are!
Southern Red Bishop (Euplectes orix) a fairly common bird in the open lands.
Cape Vulture (Gyps cropotheres) has become really scarce in the Western Cape province.

The Hoop Nature Reserve is an excellent place to enjoy wildlife, and our time in the reserve included close views on Bonteboks, Mountain Zebras, Grey Rheboks and Yellow Mongoose. In terms of birdlife, African Fish Eagle, Plain-backed Pipit, Speckled Mousebird and Great Crested Grebe were all new for the trip,

Back to the plains, we had further and closer views on Denham’s Bustard (yes, I love them!) and we were surprised to see a Common Quail running the lane right in front off our van! A bit beyond, a small pond and the meadows around produced Grey-winged Francolin, Three-banded Plover, 2 Spotted Thick-knee and, of course, Blacksmith Plovers.

Back to the accommodation, we got a Fiery-necked Nightjar in the way to dinner. The bird was sitting on the dart road. After dinner, we tried to relocate the bird but, despite at least two males were singing around, we never saw it again..

Bokmakeire (Telophorus zeylonus), a superb bird all along!
Mountain Zebra (Equus zebra)
Yellow Mongoose (Cynictis penicillata)
Denham’s Bustard (Neotis denhami) displaying.
Black Harrier (Circus maurus), the master of the coastal fynbos

Day 9. Last day of the trip. During the night we got some rain, and our pre-breakfast walk was a bit muddy, but productive. In the garden of the accommodation we got nice views on the only Grey-hooded Kingfisher of the trip. Greater Double-collared Sunbirds were common around the accommodation, along with commoner species including Sombre Greenbuls, Bar-throated Apalis, Cape Sugarbird, Jackal Buzzard and Cape Batis. To find the singing Klaa’s Cuckoo was a bit more difficult, but at end everybody in the group enjoyed good views.

After breakfast we decided a last minute visit to the Bontebok National Park. We only had one hour but we were regarded not only with the best views on Grey-winged Francolins of the trip but also with a very nice Secretary Bird hunting in the grasslands. Even if the bird was never close, it was a great way to end the trip. This was one of the main targets for some of our guests, and until that moment it was escaping from us!

In our way back to Cape Town, our planning still included a visit into a coastal tidal plain, but some major works in the highway 2 produced long queues and we finally decided to head directly to the airport, ending a wonderful 3rd issue of our special birding trip around Cape Town.

Very, very looking forward coming back in 2025! Join us. Please contact us info@barcelonabirdingpoint.com

This Klaa’s Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx klaas) was singing around our accommodation

Southern Masked Weaver (Ploceus velatus)
Greater Double-banded Sunbirds (Cinnyris afer) were moving along with Cape Sugarbirds.
Suprisingly, we only had 1 Brown-hooded Kingfisher (Alcyon albiventris) during the trip.
Grey-winged Francolin (Scleroptila afra) in our way out of Bontebok NP.

List of birds seen during the trip

  1. Common Ostrich (Struthio camelus)
  2. Egyptian Goose (Alopochen aegyptiacus)
  3. Spur-winged Goose (Plectropterus gambensis)
  4. South African Shelduck (Tadorna cana)
  5. White-faced Whistling Duck (Dendrocygna viduata)
  6. Fulvous Whistling Duck (Dendrocygna tricolor)
  7. Maccoa Duck (Oxyura maccoa)
  8. Cape Shoveler (Spatula smithii)
  9. Blue-billed Teal (Spatula hottentota)
  10. Red-billed Duck (Anas erythrorhyncha)
  11. African Black Duck (Anas sparsa)
  12. Yellow-billed Duck (Anas undulata)
  13. Cape Teal (Anas capensis)
  14. White-backed Duck (Thalassornis leuconotus)
  15. Southern Pochard (Aythya erythrophthalma)
  16. Helmeted Guineafowl (Numida meleagris)
  17. Cape Spurfowl (Ptermistis capensis)
  18. Grey-winged Francolin (Scleroptila afra)
  19. Common Quail (Coturnix coturnix)
  20. Fiery-necked Nightjar (Caprimulgus pectoralis)
  21. Little Swift (Apus affinis)
  22. White-rumped Swift (Apus caffer)
  23. African Black Swift (Apus barbatus)
  24. Alpine Swift (Apus melba)
  25. Denham’s Bustard (Neotis denhami)
  26. Southern Black Korhaan (Eupodotis vigorsii)
  27. Burchell’s Coucal (Centropus burchellii) — heard only
  28. Red-chested Cuckoo (Cuculus solitarius)
  29. Klaas’s Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx caprius)
  30. Speckled Pigeon (Colunba guinea)
  31. Rameron Pigeon (Columba arquatix)
  32. Feral Pigeon (Columba livia spp)
  33. Namaqua Dove (Oena capensis)
  34. Ring-necked Dove (Streptopelia capicola)
  35. Red-eyed Dove (Streptopelia semitorquata)
  36. Laughing Dove (Streptopelia senegalensis)
  37. Lemon Dove (Aplopelia larvata)
  38. Buff-spotted Flufftail (Sarothrura elegans)
  39. Black Crake (Amaurornis flavirostris)
  40. Red-knobbed Coot (Fulica cristata)
  41. Eurasian Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus)
  42. Blue Crane (Anthropoides paradisea)
  43. Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
  44. Black-necked Grebe (Podiceps nigricollis)
  45. Great Crested Grebe (Podiceps cristatus)
  46. Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber)
  47. Lesser Flamingo (Phoeniconaias minor)
  48. Spotted Thick-knee (Burhinus capensis)
  49. African Black Oystercatcher (Haematopus moquini)
  50. Black-winged Stilt (Himantopus himantopus)
  51. Pied Avocet (Recurvirostra avosetta)
  52. Grey Plover (Pluvialis squatarola)
  53. Crowned Lapwing (Vanellus coronatus)
  54. Blacksmith Lapwing (Vanellus arnatus)
  55. Common Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula)
  56. White-fronted Plover (Charadrius marginatus)
  57. Kittlitz’s Plover (Charadrius pecuarius)
  58. Three-banded Plover (Charadrius tricollaris)
  59. Common Greenshank (Tringa nebularia)
  60. Marsh Sandpiper (Tringa stagnatilis)
  61. Bar-tailed Godwit (Limosa lapponica)
  62. Common Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)
  63. Eurasian Curlew (Numenius arquata)
  64. Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres)
  65. Sanderling (Calidris alba)
  66. Little Stint (Calidris minuta)
  67. Curlew Sandpiper (Calidris ferruginea)
  68. White-rumped Sandpiper (Calidris fuscicollis)
  69. Grey-headed Gull (Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus)
  70. Hartlaub’s Gull (Chroicocephalus hartlaubii)
  71. Cape Gull (Larus dominicanus vetula)
  72. Sabine’s Gull (Xenus sabini)
  73. Caspian Tern (Hyproprogne caspia)
  74. Great Crested Tern (Thalasseus bergii)
  75. Sandwich Tern (Thalasseus sandvicensis)
  76. Arctic Tern (Sterna paradisaea)
  77. Common Tern (Sterna hirundo)
  78. Antarctic Tern (Sterna vitatta)
  79. Whiskered Tern (Chlidonias hybridus)
  80. Subantarctic Skua (Stercorarius antarcticus)
  81. African Penguin (Spheniscus demersus)
  82. Shy Albatross (Thalassarche cauta)
  83. Black-browed Albatross (Thalassarche melanorphys)
  84. Indian Yellow-nosed Albatross (Thalassarche carteri)
  85. Northern Giant Petrel (Macronetes galli)
  86. Cape Petrel (Daption capense)
  87. White-chinned Petrel (Procellaria aequinoctialis)
  88. Spectacled Petrel (Procellaria conspicillata)
  89. Great Shearwater (Ardenna gravis)
  90. Sooty Shearwater (Ardenna grisea)
  91. Cape Gannet (Morus capensis)
  92. African Darter (Anhinga rufa)
  93. Long-tailed Cormorant (Microcarbo africanus)
  94. Crowned Cormorant (Microcarbo coronatus)
  95. White-breasted Cormorant (Phalacrocorax lucidus)
  96. Bank Cormorant (Phalacrocorax neglectus)
  97. Cape Cormorant (Phalacrocorax capensis)
  98. Great White Pelican (Pelecanus onocratus)
  99. African Sacred Ibis (Threskiornis aethiopicus)
  100. Hadada Ibis (Bostrychia hagedash)
  101. Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus)
  102. African Spoonbill (Platalea alba)
  103. Black-crowned Night Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax)
  104. Western Cattle Egret (Bubulcus)
  105. Little Egret (Egretta garzetta)
  106. Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea)
  107. Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea)
  108. Black-headed Heron (Ardea melanocephala)
  109. Hamerkop (Scopus umbretta)
  110. Secretary Bird (Sagittarius serpentarius)
  111. Yellow-billed Kite (Milvus aegyptius)
  112. Black-shouldered Kite (Elanus caeruleus)
  113. African Fish Eagle (Haliaeetus vocifer)
  114. Cape Vulture (Gyps coprotheres)
  115. African Marsh Harrier (Circus ranivorus)
  116. Black Harrier (Circus maurus)
  117. Montagu’s Harrier (Circus pygargus)
  118. Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk (Melierax canorus)
  119. Black Goshawk (Accipiter melanoleucus)
  120. African Harrier-Hawk (Polyboroides typus)
  121. Common (Steppe) Buzzard (Buteo buteo vulpinus)
  122. Forest Buzzard (Buteo trizonatus)
  123. Jackal Buzzard (Buteo rufofuscus)
  124. Verreaux’s Eagle (Aquila verreauxii)
  125. Booted Eagle (Aquila pennata)
  126. Marsh Owl (Asio capensis)
  127. Spotted Eagle Owl (Bubo africanus)
  128. Speckled Mousebird (Colius striatus)
  129. White-backed Mousebird (Colius colius)
  130. African Hoopoe (Upupa africana) — heard only
  131. Pied Kingfisher (Ceryle rudis)
  132. Brown-hooded Kingfisher (Halcyon albiventris)
  133. Ground Woodpecker (Geocolaptes olivaceus) — heard only
  134. Olive Woodpecker (Dendropicos griseocephalus)
  135. Rock Kestrel (Falco rupicolus)
  136. Greater Kestrel (Falco rupicoloides)
  137. Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus)
  138. Cape Batis (Batis capensis)
  139. Southern Boubou (Laniarius ferrugineus)
  140. Bokmakierie (Telophorus zeylonus)
  141. Southern Fiscal (Lanius collaris)
  142. Fork-tailed Drongo (Dricurus adsimilis)
  143. African Paradise Flycatcher (Tersiphone viridis)
  144. House Crow (Corvus splendens)
  145. Cape Crow (Corvus capensis)
  146. Pied Crow (Corvus albus)
  147. White-necked Raven (Corvus albicollis)
  148. Cape Rockjumper (Chaetops frenatus)
  149. Cape Penduline Tit (Anthoscopus minutus)
  150. Cape Clapper Lark (Mirafra africana)
  151. Large-billed Lark (Mirafra albicauda)
  152. Karoo Lark (Calendulauda albescens)
  153. Spike-heeled Lark (Chersomanes albofasciata)
  154. Karoo Long-billed Lark (Certhilauda brevirostris)
  155. Agulhas Long-billed Lark (Certhilauda subcoronata)
  156. Grey-backed Sparrow Lark (Eremopterix verticalis)
  157. Red-capped Lark (Calandrella cinerea)
  158. Cape Bulbul (Pycnonotus capensis)
  159. Sombre Greenbul (Andropadus importunus)
  160. Black Saw-wing (Psalidoprogne holomelas)
  161. Plain Martin (Riparia paludicola)
  162. Banded Martin (Riparia cincta)
  163. Rock Martin (Ptyonoprogne fuligula)
  164. Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica)
  165. White-throated Swallow (Hirundo albigularis)
  166. Pearl-breasted Swallow (Hirundo dimidiata)
  167. Greater Striped Swallow (Cecropis cucullata)
  168. Cape Grassbird (Sphenoeacus afer)
  169. Long-billed Crombec (Sylvietta rufescens)
  170. Victorin’s Warbler (Cryptillas victorini)
  171. Common Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus scirpaceus)
  172. Lesser Swamp Warbler (Acrocephalus gracilirostris)
  173. Little Rush Warbler (Bradypterus baboecala)
  174. Grey-backed Cisticola (Cisticola subruficapilla)
  175. Levaillant’s Cisticola (Cisticola tinniens)
  176. Cloud Cisticola (Cisticola textrix)
  177. Zitting Cisticola (Cisticola juncidis)
  178. Piping Cisticola (Cisticola fulvicapilla)
  179. Karoo Prinia (Prinia maculosa)
  180. Rufous-eared Warbler (Malcorus pectoralis)
  181. Bar-throated Apalis (Apalis thoracica)
  182. Karoo Eremomela (Eremomela gregalis)
  183. Layard’s Warbler (Curruca layardi)
  184. Chestnut-vented Warbler (Curruca subcoerulea)
  185. Cape White-eye (Zosterops virens)
  186. Common Starling (Sturnus vulgaris)
  187. Pied Starling (Lamprotornis bicolor)
  188. Red-winged Starling (Onychognathus morio)
  189. Olive Thrush (Turdus olivaceus)
  190. Karoo Thrush (Turdus smithi)
  191. Fiscal Flycatcher (Melaenornis sirens)
  192. African Dusky Flycatcher (Muscicapa adusta)
  193. Karoo Scrub-Robin (Cercotrichas coryphoeus)
  194. African Stonechat (Saxicola torquatus)
  195. Sickle-winged Chat (Emarginata sinuata)
  196. Karoo Chat (Emarginata schlegelii)
  197. Ant-eating Chat (Myrmecocichla formicivora)
  198. Mountain Wheatear (Myrmecocichla monticola)
  199. Cape Robin-Chat (Cossypha caffra)
  200. Cape Rock Thrush (Monticola rupestris)
  201. Familiar Chat (Oenanthe familiaris)
  202. Capped Wheatear (Oenanthe pileata)
  203. Orange-breasted Sunbird (Anthobaphes violacea)
  204. Amethyst Sunbird (Chalcomitra amethystina)
  205. Malachite Sunbird (Nectarinia famosa)
  206. Southern Double-collared Sunbird (Cinnyris chalybeus)
  207. Greater Double-collared Sunbird (Cinnyris afer)
  208. Dusky Sunbird (Cinnyris fuscus)
  209. Cape Sugarbird (Promerops cafer)
  210. Cape Sparrow (Passer melanurus)
  211. House Sparrow (Passer domesticus)
  212. Southern Grey-headed Sparrow (Passer diffusus)
  213. Cape Weaver (Ploceus capensis)
  214. Southern-Masked Weaver (Ploceus velatus)
  215. Village Weaver (Ploceus cucullatus)
  216. Red-billed Quelea (Quelea quelea)
  217. Southern Red Bishop (Amblyospiza albifrons)
  218. Yellow Bishop (Euplectes capensis)
  219. Bronze Mannikin (Lonchura cucullata)
  220. Swee Waxbill (Coccopygia melanotis)
  221. Common Waxbill (Estrilda astrild)
  222. Qualfinch (Ortygospiza atricollis)
  223. Pin-tailed Whydah (Vidua macroura)
  224. Cape Wagtail (Motacilla capensis)
  225. Cape Longclaw (Macronyx capensis)
  226. African Pipit (Anthus cinnamomeus)
  227. Plain-backed Pipit (Anthus leucophrys)
  228. Nicholson’s Pipit (Anthus nicholsoni)
  229. Cape Canary (Serinus canicollis)
  230. Black-headed Canary (Serinus alario)
  231. Forest Canary (Crithagra scotops)
  232. Yellow Canary (Crithagra flaviventris)
  233. Brimstone Canary (Crithagra sulfurata)
  234. White-throated Canary (Crithagra leucoptera)
  235. Protea Seedeater (Crithagra leucoptera)
  236. Streaky-headed Canary (Crithagra gularis)
  237. Cape Siskin (Crithagra totta)
  238. Common Chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs) — heard only
  239. Lark-like Bunting (Emberiza impetuani)
  240. Cape Bunting (Emberiza capensis)

List of mammals seen during the tour

  1. Chacma Baboon (Papio ursinus)
  2. Bush Karoo Rat (Otomys unisulcatus)
  3. Cape Grey Mongoose (Herpestes pulverulenta)
  4. Yellow Mongoose (Cynictis penicillata)
  5. Brown Fur Seal (Arctocephalus pusillus)
  6. Rock Hyrax (Procavia capensis)
  7. Mountain Zebra (Equus zebra)
  8. Red Hartebeest (Alcephalus buselaphus)
  9. Eland (Taurotragus scriptus)
  10. Greater Kudu (Tragelaphus strepsiceros)
  11. Springbok (Antidorcas marsupialis)
  12. Steenbok (Raphicerus campestris)
  13. Klipspringer (Oreotragus oreotragus)
  14. Grey Rhebok (Pelea capreolus)
  15. Bontebok (Damaliscus dorcas)
  16. Humpback Whale (Megaptera novaeangliae)
  17. Southern Right Whale (Eubalaena australis)

List of reptilians seen during the tour

  1. Angulate Tortoise (Chersina angulata)
  2. Cape Berg Adder (Bitis atropos)
  3. Cape Boomslang (Dispholidus typus)
  4. Southern Rock Agama (Agama atra)

Southern Europe Odyssey 2024 Trip Report

  • Dates: From May 3rd to June 6th, 2024
  • Tour participants: 6
  • Number of species seen: 312
  • Tour leader: Carles Oliver (Barcelona to Lisbon) & Sergi Sales (Sofia to Cyprus)

All images by Carles Oliver. All rights reserved.

Overview: Our very first Southern Europe Odyssey has been a very funny and brave adventure. Visiting 5 European countries and 9 islands (3 in the Mediterranean; 6 in the Atlantic Ocean), we have enjoyed a very long list of European and Macaronesian endemics and specialities. The tour has been divided in different sections so our guests could join the part they were most interested about. Very looking forward to go on again with this crazy adventure!

Day 1. From Barcelona to Picos de Europa. Our Odyssey through South Europe, an ambitious program visiting 5 countries and 9 islands started in a very epic way; a 3:00am pick up to try to catch up with some nocturnal birds. Very close from the Barcelona airport we had a first stop. It is a small area of farming with some lines of trees, some of them with several holes. Here we started looking for European Scops Owl. It was clearly colder than expected. During the previous weeks we had low temperatures clearly below average in Catalonia, with strong snow falls up in the Pyrenees. That morning, the temperatura drop to only 7ºC!

Along the next half an hour we tried to have any view on the Scops Owls living in the area, but little success. We heard them as we heard Little Owl and Western Barn Owl but we no success to see any of them. But the situation turned on when a close a Scops Owl suddenly came to us from the inside the canopies and landed only by the path, 150 centimetres high! We all had excellent views on the bird and a couple of shots before the bird came back deep inside the vegetation. Still excited about such good looks, we heard a second bird calling down the path,, very low in the trees and only a few meters away from us. A few second after that we got the bird singing in the torch, allowing not only really good views but also a number of shots! Very happy for this success we drove up the valley to try a second bird. By the time we arrived the raising was in the sky, and the first Nightingales were singing. It was still cold and a bit early in the season so I was not very sure that the whole thing could work. But it did, and at the second attempt a very nice Red-necked Nightjar emerged from the shadows and flew directly above the group to show the large white markings in the tail and a wings, and the lovely orangish coloration in the underwing coverts. The bird was singing, probably right arrived from Africa and busy to mark its territory!

Eurasian Scops Owl (Otus scops) was a major target for many in the group, and we enjoyed great views next to Barcelona. Image by tour leader Carles Oliver.

Very happy with this excellent sight, we drove West, living behind Barcelona, that was only about to wake up in another busy day. It was about 6:30 when we stop in a quiet service station to have some breakfast. A selection of coffees, orange juices and potato omelette was served and we had some time for relax after the early start. Here the group had also the chance to meet Sergi Sales, the leader for the Eastern part of the Odyssey as he was on his way to lead a day trip out of Barcelona with a birder from Japan.

From here we kept going West for about 30 miles, and our first birding stop with daylight was devoted to a lovely patch of traditional farming. Here, the Catalan Government is taking efforts to manage the habitat and preserve some spots for the very endangered Little Bustard. At the first stop of the van, we got excellent scope views on a displaying Little Bustard, and during the next 90 minutes we had 6 different males chasing each other or simply singing from their lekking positions. A Montagu’s Harrier female was also one of the first birds for us, but even before that we got a distant male Red-footed Falcon sitting down on some dead branches. Certainly a very good start for the trip! Several Calandra Larks and Corn Buntings were seen, as White Storks, Stock Dove and Western Jackdaws were. We kept moving through this great habitat, adding good looks on specialities like Stone Curlew and Iberian Grey Shrikes but also migratory birds including Northern Wheatear and the always very nice looking Whinchats. Common Kestrels, Marsh Harriers, Red Kites and Black Kites were all seen, and we also had time for a short visit to a nesting colony of Lesser Kestrels, where we had some nice scope views on the birds. But probably one of the best birds on this location was the nice pair of Great Spotted Cuckoos chasing each other quite high in the sky! A quite unexpected view. Here, we also got the first Short-toed Eagle for the trip.

We could stay there longer, but we were committed with some extra specialties along our long way to Picos de Europa. Our next movement was to visit another area inside the Catalan dry lands. Here we got nice views on both Black Wheatears & Black-eared Wheatears plus Spotless Starling, Thekla Lark and some lovely views on European Turtle Doves. The area was also rich on Finches and Greenfinch, Serin and European Goldfinch were all seen before we stoped by a puddle. Here another singing Common Nightingale was waiting for us, and we got nice views on the first Sardinian Warblers of the trip along with migratory Pied & Spotted Flycatchers. Again, European Turtle Doves were present in the area, joined this time by European Bee-eaters and Griffons flying over our heads. In the water, only a Eurasian Moorhen was seen.

Little Bustard (Tetrax tetrax) landing on its lek spot in the Catalan steppes.
Little Bustard (Tetrax tetrax), a species which dramatically decreasing in Western Europe.
That morning we were very lucky to have close views on Stone Curlews (Burhinus oedicnemus).
One of the two Great Spotted Cuckoos (Clamator glandarius) that flew over us.
Iberian Grey Shrike (Lanius meridionalis).
Black Wheatear (Oenanthe leucura) showed distant but very well in our stop at Mas de Melons NR.

From here we had some solid drive West, with some comfort stops in the way. Our next birding stop didn’t come until mid afternoon, in the border between The Basque Country and Castille. Here we spent some time in a riverside forest. It was slightly windy and the bird activity was light. Some Greenfinches were feeding in the area along with Eurasian Blackcap. But a short walk around the area fastly put us in contact with our main target here. One Iberian Chiffchaff was singing low in the riparian vegetation and a few moments later we were all enjoying wonderful views on the bird! During about 5 minutes, the bird was singing around us and flickering the winds, showing way better we were expecting. Along the next 20 minutes we saw at least 4 Iberian Chiffchaffs and also got really good looks on Cetti’s Warbler, Eurasian Wren, Eurasian Goldfinches, Great Tits and a family of Short-toed Treecreepers moving in the thick trunks along the Ebro River. Along the banks of the river, a Common Sandpiper completed the list for the place.

From here, we still had to cover one hour of drive to our final destination at the heart of Picos de Europa.

Iberian Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus ibericus), one of the most sought-after species for some of the tour participants!

Day 2. From Picos de Europa to Belchite. After enjoying a great breakfast we drove into the mountains. It looked like a quiet morning, and the towering landscape allowed us to connect with some Griffon Vultures in our way to Fuente Dé cable car. We arrived earlier than expected, and we gather at the access queue. A powerful brise started to blow, and our concerns about the cable car being open that morning started to arise. In the queue we picked up Coal Tit, Goldcrest, Eurasian Nuthatches, Common Chaffinch (the first Chaffinch species of the many to come in this Odyssey) and Black Redstart, all of them new for the trip. The minutes went out, the queue grew at the same rhythm that our concerns did, and our worst thought came truth when the staff attending the cable car confirmed that the cable car was not to be open that day. A last minute change in the weather broadcast made the conditions unsuitable for the cable car to run in a safe way. Devastated by the news, we had a couple of strolls around, hoping to connect with some good birds. It was certainly still a slim chance for cable car to open, so we decided to invest a couple of hours wandering around. Along this time we got nice views on Firecrest, Song Thrush, European Crested Tit, Dunnock, Eurasian Treecreeper, Blue & Great Tits, Linnets, European Stonechats and lovely views in some Rock Buntings. Both Alpine & Red-billed Choughs were seen, even if the first were far up in the sky. A low Egyptian Vulture was one of the final sightings. At the end, the day turned into a grey, windy one. Back to the van, we started driving back Est, expecting to arrive to our next accommodation at the Ebro Valley about sunset.

In the way, several White Storks we had a number of birding stops. Along the rivers, we got ruff views on a speedy Common Kingfisher, but also on the first Long-tailed Tits and Grey Wagtails of the trip. Several Griffons were seen here as well. Back to the road, we crossed a large area of altitudinal plateaus covered with low scrublands. A wonderful habitat for a number of species, and a couple of stops in our way allowed us to connect with a Woodlark singing from a wire, but also with a massive flock of Common Rock Sparrows A bit beyond, another stops was mandatory to enjoy a Golden Eagle passing really close of the van. The bird, a full adult, was circling above the road. Once with the foot on the ground, we found close Cirl Bunting, Western Yellow Wagtail in the fields around and Sonja got a nice Common Cuckoo landing into a large tree right in front of us! The rest of transfer was a bit more quiet, and only a couple of Short-toed Eagles and a hunting Montagu’s Harriers deserve our attention.

But before going to the accommodation we still had a very short stop around the village, and we were lucky enough to find a lovely Little Owl sitting on the top a pile of rocks. The Owl offered really good looks and some photo opportunities despite the poor light, and this final stop was complemented with the very last bird of the day, a nice European Nightjar that was flying around!

European Crested Tit (Lophophanes cristatus), one of the most celebrated birds in our morning at Picos de Europa.
Common Rock Sparrow (Petronia petronia). We enjoyed large flocks between Picos & Los Monegros.
Short-toed Eagle (Circaetus gallicus) feeding on a Montpellier Snake (Malpolon monspessulanus).

Day 3. Ebro Valley to Ebro Delta. Just arrived to the habitat, we heard a singing Dupont’s Lark not far away from us. Mediterranean Short-toed Larks were very active, but our attention was concentrated in Dupont’s, a scarce and often difficult to see bird. After a fast scanning, I found the bird singing from a tiny tussock, and I tried to put directions so everybody could enjoy. Unfortunately the bird came down to the ground and started running, and most of the tour participants only got partial views on the bird moving around. The Dupont’s vanished in the vegetation and we decided to wait and see if it was reappearing, but after 10 minutes 3 Pint-tailed Sandgrouses crossed the road, flying into a nearby pond. We immediately took our change and approach the pond, trying to get better views on the birds. We could not find them, but then 2 Black-bellied Sandgrouses flew over, provided good looks.
Dupont’s Larks were still singing around, but we were still unable to find anything beyond 2 Thekla’s Larks having a bad argument in the steppes. And then Keith appeared and said the magic words: “I found a roosting Nightjar”. We inmediatly moved to into the bushes. He flushed the bird, that got deep inside the bushland. We had to move carefully to don’t disturbed again. Only a few minutes later we got the bird again, an European Nightjar, roosting really deep inside a bush. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, all clients got to see the bird! But just at the moment to take some shots, the bird flew out, stopping not far. We tried a second a approach, and this time we got nice flight views before it got really deep inside a large bush!

Just back to the van, we decided to try a different strategy to get Dupont’s Lark. We drove through some good habitat, and only 2 minutes later Keith spoiled us again by finding a wonderful Dupont’s Lark walking just beside the vehicle. The bird was only 10 meters away, and all tour participants had good views on the bird as it was moving and feeding among to tussocks of vegetation.

A last stop before leaving this hotspot produced good views in the only Western Orphean Warbler of the trip. Here we also enjoyed European Turtle Dove, migratory Willow Warbler, Woodchat Shrike and fly over Booted Eagle.

Mediterranean Short-toed Lark (Alaudala rufescens) in typical habitat.
Dupont’s Lark (Chersophilus duponti) showed really and in different views, despite the rather distant images.
European Turtle Dove (Streptopelia turtur) is nesting in good numbers in the grasslands.

It was a sunny day, and in our transfer to Ebro Delta we had a nice lunch stop in one of the many gorges in the area. Here we got lucky again and the whole group enjoyed great views on Western Bonelli’s Warblers but also Peregrine Falcon, Red-rumped Swallows and distant but showy Blue Rock Thrush.

We arrived to Ebro Delta, following the channels and paddyfields covered by hundreds of Glossy Ibises, Whiskered Terns and Herons the many species including Squacco Herons and Purple Herons. A first stop was done in a typical spot for migratory passerines and we got excellent views not only in Willow Warblers but also in 4 Pied Flycatchers, Garden Warbler, Spotted Flycatcher, 1 Melodious Warbler (the only Melodious for the Odyssey), 7+ Eurasian Golden Orioles, Woodchat Shrike, Common Chiffchaff, 3 Common Whitethroats and 1 Common Redstarts. Happy with such array of birds we move to a second spot. Always surrounded by Stilts and Marsh Harriers in our way, we did arrive to a El Violí area, a nice marsh surrounded by lagoons. A relaxed walk around provided a massive list including goodies such as Pied Avocet, 4 Red-crested Pochards, Western Swamphens, Purple Herons, 4 Collared Pratincoles, Penduline Tit, Eurasian Spoonbills, Spotted Redshanks, Great Reed Warblers, good views on 3+ Little Bitterns and migratory Whinchats.

And with the evening shading we just drove the short distance to our accommodation.

Our transfer to Ebro Delta crossed some of the best areas for raptors in Catalonia. Here a gorgeous Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos) seen from a highway.
Winchats (Saxicola rubetra) are migratory birds along the Catalan coast. Here a wonderful male!
Great Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus arundinaceus) singing his heart out in the reedbeds at Ebro Delta.

Day 4. Ebro Delta – Mallorca. After enjoying a nice breakfast we move to our first stop. It was another sunny day and we went to check the largest lagoon in Ebro Delta. Here, along with the several Common & Whiskered Terns, Swamphens and Audouin’s Gulls we also got really nice views on Caspian Terns and, more importantly, some summer plomaged Mediterranean Gulls that were displaying in an island. This was an important target for some of our guests, and it was really celebrated, especially when some Med Gull decided to come right above us, providing wonderful views to everyone in the group. The stop also provided good scope views on Savi’s Warbler, a scarce nesting bird at Ebro Delta and, more surprisingly, we also got good scope views on 2 Common Reed Buntings. The Reed Buntings nesting here belong to the extremely endangered witherbyi race that has only a few tens of nesting pairs left in Catalonia! Very happy for this very good array of birds, we move North for a last stop in this amazing wetland before heading back to Barcelona.

The last stop was as good as the first one and here, in a swallow water inner bay we got very nice views on 20+ summer plumaged Red Knots joined by 4 drake Curlew Sandpipers! Along with them, Bar-tailed Godwits in summer colours, Eurasian Curlew, Kentish Plover, Eurasian Oystercatcher (the only one for the Odyssey!) and 1 Osprey.

We drove back to Barcelona to take the plane connecting us with Mallorca, but it was still time for a final before leaving Catalonia.. Very close to the airport, we visited a place for the endemic Iberian Green Woodpecker. It didn’t even take us a minute to connect with the bird! Amazingly, one of this woodpeckers just flew parallel to the van for some meters, stopping close to the van and allowing us time to get out of the minivan and connect with it in a very pleasant way. In addition, we also got 2 Hooded Crows, a substantial part of the tiny population recently established around the Catalan capital city. It was too easy! So, we still had time. I asked the people if was fancy to try for Dartford Warbler nearby. No was not an option, and everybody agreed. Ten minutes later we were on place and, guess what, a pair of Dartfords just flew around us to provide some views.. Everybody was happy so now, yes, was time to take a plane and deep into the Mediterranean!

Arrived to Mallorca in the early afternoon, we collected our minibus and drove directly East expecting some goo evening light. That evening, the island was covered with a sheet of light clouds, creating the perfect conditions for some sea watching. We wouldn’t be disappointed and within the next 45 minutes we enjoyed of tens and tens of Scopoli’s Shearwaters passing by our cape, some of them at close range. Along with them, small clocks of Balearic Shearwaters were also in the move to their nesting grounds at Cabrera island. In addition, here we also got the only Northern Gannet of the whole Odyssey and, more importantly 2 Shags, another target species for some of our guests!

Eurasian Penduline Tit (Remiz pendulinus) keeps expanding at Ebro Delta.
Mediterranean Gull (Ichthyaetos melanocephala) was really celebrated by some tour participants.
Red Knots (Calidris canutus), Curlew Sandpipers (Calidris ferruginea) & Black-bellied Plovers (Pluvialis squatarola) in nice summer colours.
Slender-billed Gulls (Larus genei) right in time before we transferred back to Barcelona.

Day 5. Mallorca. Before breakfast we had a short walk exploring the cliffs South from our accommodation. No migrants were found, but we got nice views on a singing Blue Rock Thrush, 2 Pallid Swifts, several Mediterranean Flycatchers and a nice family of Hoopoes. Out in the sea we had distant views on both Scopoli’s & Balearic Shearwaters + a couple of (Mediterranean) Shags. After we enjoyed our delicious breakfast, we went off to meet Jason, our local guide during our full day in the island. Jason is British but his roots in Mallorca are already deep, and this includes his great skills when speaking Catalan in the delicious Mallorcan variation!

It was a very sunny morning and our first movement was to go on with a short walk through some coastal scrubland. Here, it didn’t take long before we contacted with 2 nice Balearic Warblers, and the group enjoyed nice views on this endemic while was moving in an out a bush. Sometimes it came to the top of the bush to sing, but we often had to fight to have proper views on it.

Crossing the island, we headed to Serra de Tramuntana and in the way we caught a migratory Montagu’s Harrier flying very low over the fields. Here, the impressive rocky slopes are home to a good number of specialities. The first to appear were 2 Cinereous Vultures along with 5 Griffon Vultures. Back on the ground, we got nice views on a Tawny Pipit and several Mediterranean Flycatchers. We still had to walk a bit more to see the first Moltoni’s Warbler of the trip, but at the end it provided great views along with 2 other individuals. Back to the van, we still had 3 Common Crossbills passing over us. It was already midday when we left the hills, going this time to the Northern part of the island to explore its main wetland. By the time we arrived to S’Albufera the weather was already cloudy and allowed us to walk inside in a fresh ambient that is uncommon for the season. Some Gull-billed Terns welcomed us to the marshes, and as we walked inside we had time to enjoy the wonderful mixed colony of Squacco Herons, Glossy Ibises, Little Egrets and Night Herons with many birds showing out their best colours! From the hides, we got really good views on Red-knobbed Coots but also 3 Marbled Teals and the firsts Little Ringed Plover and Common Snipe of the tour. Once out, we got excellent views on a family of Red-knobbed Coots feeding their chicks in the path itself only a few yards from us!

To end the day, we had a stop in some farming area. Here we got really good views on Thekla’s Larks but also (Balearic) Woodchat Shrikes and Red-legged Partridges before going back to our accommodation for a well deserved rest.

Mediterranean Flycatcher (Muscicapa tyrrhenica) just by our accommodation.
Balearic Warbler (Curruca balerica) fighting to not get in the image!
Moltoni’s Warbler (Curruca subalpina) on its typical Mediterranean habitat.
Marbled Teal (Marmaronetta angustirostris), Red-knobbed Coot (Fulica cristata) & Common Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna) at S’Albufera.
We got lucky and enjoyed some very tender sights on Red-knobbed Coots (Fulica cristata)


Day 6. Mallorca – Tenerife. After enjoying a very nice breakfast, we drove back to Palma, but with a stopover at Salobrar de Campos. Again, we got really few migrants, but excellent views on Kentish Plovers, Black-winged Stilts, Pied Avocets, Greater Flamingoes and a couple of obliging Western Yellow Wagtails.

We landed in Tenerife in the early afternoon and 10′ behind schedule, but we collected the van very quick. At Tenerife Airport, a new Odysseer joined the expedition, and we all left the airport with more energy than ever, heading to the pine woods mid way up to the Teide volcano, the tallest mountain in the Canary Islands.

We had time for a good afternoon stop so we drove up into the slopes of the magnificent Teide (a large volcano that is the highest mountain in the Canary Island). In the way up, we had a pair of Berthelot’s Pipits that showed superbly for the group. But the main stop was in a mature Canary Island Pine forest, where we immediately connected with a nice flock of Atlantic Canaries. Along with them, we got African Blue Tits, Great Spotted Woodpeckers and Common Ravens. It didn’t take long before we got the first Blue Chaffinch, quietly singing while perched in the out for us! We had been tracking their contact calls for some minutes, but was Bud who finally spotted the bird! During the coming 40 minutes we enjoyed several views on Blue Chaffinches, both males and females while feeding on the ground, chasing each other or having more than words with one of the Great Spotted Woodpeckers around.

Totally satisfied after this first stop in the Canary Islands, we just drove to our accommodation to enjoy an extraordinary dinner!

Kentish Plover (Anarhynchus alexandrinus) in Mallorca.
Berthelot’s Pipit (Anthus berthelotii) close up.
Tenerife Blue Chaffinches (Fringilla teydea) provided great looks in one of the typical places for the species (above & below).
Echium wildpretii, a gorgeous endemic plant from the Canary Islands (Teide NP).

Day 7. Tenerife. Early morning breakfast for the group before transfering North of the island to look for the many specialties living in the laurel forest. It is a fresh day and as we park we soon enjoy views on Atlantic Canaries feeding around and the distinctive Canary Island Chiffchaffs being very active. ACommon Buzzard soars the sky, and we are surprised by the good activity of Bolle’s Pigeon feeding in the canopies, flying around and flocking in the trees that holds their food. We spent some time enjoying them, but our attention is required in the sky as the very first Common Kestrel in the Canary Islands appears also in the sky. As in many species here, this is a specific race, and in this case it is smaller and duller, with a distinctive tawny tint in the underneath. The Kestrel was still in the sky when a Laurel Pigeon arrives to one of the most popular trees, landing in the middle of the Bolle’s Pigeon, but out of view. As we concentrate our efforts in locating this bird, a secondLaurel Pigeon flies into some large Pines, but only Keith manages short views on the bird while it is perched in the outer branches.

We still spent some time in the parking before starting our walk, but we never had any other Laurel showing here. The path we are following goes up the hill and gets inside a very interesting, almost pristine, laurel forest. In our way up, some European Robin (race superbus, considered as a full species in some lists) show up, producing really good looks. A bit beyond we also find the recently split Canary Island Chaffinch while a small flock of Plain Swift is flying around us and a pair of Eurasian Sparrowhawk is soaring the sky. We spent most of the morning in the area, but we could not get any further view on Laurel Pigeons. Instead, some lovely Tenerife Goldcrest (race teneriffae, another serious potential split) provided the group with excellent views!

Back to the van, we drove a short distance to enjoy a typical Canarian meal. We were all happy after the many sightings on Bolle’s Pigeon (35+ birds!) and all the other endemics. We were about to leave Tenerife but we wanted better views on Laurel Pigeon so in the way back a fast stop was done and from here got excellent views on at least 18 Laurel Pigeons! They were very active, flying along the slopes. Two or three times we got scope views on perched Laurel Pigeon and all 4 scopes concentrated on them! By 14:30 we were back to the airport. We had “cleared” the island in less than one day!!

We took a commuter flight to Fuerteventura. But, by the time we arrived there it was already a bit late in the afternoon. Still, a last stop was made by a pond where we had the first Ruddy Shelducks and Laughing Doves of the trip plus good looks on 2 very attractive summer plomaged Dunlins, 1 Little Ringed Plover, 1 Yellow Wagtail, and some Egyptian Vultures, very active despite the strong wind.

Canary Island Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus canariensis) showing the broad eye brow and the long, rather decurved bill.
Tenerife Robing (Erithacus rubecula superbus), a serious candidate to become full species.
Tens of Bolle’s Pigeons (Columba bollii) were feeding in the wood lands, but always conveniently far..
The recently split Canary Islands Chaffinch (Fringilla canariensis) has become a new endemic of the islands.
At the end we enjoyed at least 18 Laurel Pigeons (Columba junoniae) feeding and gathering in a gorge.

Day 8. Fuerteventura. It had been a windy night, and when we gathered at the lobby of our accommodation for a pre-breakfast exploration of the desert around, I have to confess that I was a bit worry about the possibilities of get the birds during the day. We drove the short distance to a good location for some desert birds. As we drove in, the first lights of the day revealed some Yellow-legged Gulls in the move. Surprisingly it didn’t take long before we found a wonderful male Houbara Bustard standing up at a short distance from the minibus. we all got great views and we could track a bit the large bird as it was moving in the desert. At some point we lost track, and kept driving a bit beyond only to find a female Houbara Bustard. We stop and decided to walk out of the vehicle so everybody could have a good chance for views and photos.

As we were enjoying the female, we suddenly got the male coming from the opposite side of the track and, for our surprise, started displaying only 100 meters away from us. The display on this species is admirable, as they become a wonderful white ball, starting running up while is converted in a snow ball. We saw the bird displaying for long, and even crossed the small road in the search of the female that was running the opposite slope.

Once we enjoyed very much this splendid moment, we decided to come back to the accommodation and enjoy a well deserved breakfast.

After breakfast we left our accommodation and drove West in the search of proper habitat for the other main target in the island. Even before arrived to the place we had to slow down. A very nice Egyptian Vulture was feeding on the ground along with Common Ravens. A bit beyond, we started scanning the endless rocky desert that host many of the good birds living in the island. Soon, we got 3 Black-bellied Sandgrouses flying into the plain and stopping in the rocky plain. It took us a couple of minutes to figure out where they landed, and a gentle approach allowed us to have very close views on all 3 birds; 2 males and 1 young. A marvellous morning light was on the birds, and the photographers in the group enjoyed this very much. We parked a bit beyond and had a stroll along a wide valley. A small reservoir of water that serves for irrigate some areas around is the best wetland in the island. We got some Black-winged Stilts and 3 Little Ringed Plovers but, unfortunately, nothing else. Small flocks of Sandgrouses were mobile in the area, probably attending the water pond in a place out of view. We got amazing flight views, with several flocks calling as they were crossing the valley at full speed. We counted a minimum of 18 individuals.

A few moments later we got the a nice pair of Fuerteventura Chats moving in the dry river bed. They were a bit far away so we decided to walk down the slope and a few minutes later we were enjoying really nice looks in both, male and female. The male appear to be a bit dirty due to the muddy river bed. Several flocks of Sandgrouses flew over us and 2 Cream-coloured Courser joined them at some point! A further walk through the habitat allowed us to have ruff views on Trumpeter Finches but close views on both 2 Stone Curlews, the Canary Islands race of Great Grey Shrike and Spanish Sparrows. Very distantly, a Barbary Falcon showed out briefly chasing a small bird.

We went back to our accommodation for some lunch. Outside, the wind started to blow in a very serious way and our perspectives for an afternoon birding almost vanishes. Still, we decided to go out and try to catch up with something else. This time we went to the famous Tendaya plains, and we were delighted with our choice from the very beginning. Not even arrived to the habitat we had to spot to admire a flock of extremely close Black-bellied Sandgrouses feeding inside a enclosure for goats. They were feeding along with Collared Doves, a bit grotesque if you want, but equally enjoyable! Only a few yards beyond we made a stop to explore some nice bushland. The Great Grey Shrikes kept down in the habitat, away from the strong wind, but our walk was rewarded with solid views on 3 Spectacled Warblers, 1 migratory Spotted Flycatcher and 4 Barbary Partridges moving a bit far away from us. The area was full of Trumpeter Finches and we all enjoyed great views on these little gems. The surprise of the afternoon was a nice female Eurasian Golden Oriole but the wind started to get really serious. It was probably time to move back. In the extra time, we still had a gorgeous female Houbara Bustard walking along the mini vas, and providing great looks in the wonderful afternoon light.

A superb Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata) in full display was the best of our pre-breakfast outing in Fuerteventura.
Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus) has in Fuerteventura one of the few non-migratory populations of this species worldwide.
Black-bellied Sandgrouse (Pterocles orientalis) melting with the landscape.
Fuerteventura Chat (Saxicola dacotiae), endemic from that island and with a fastly decreasing population.
Spanish Sparrow (Passer hispanoliensis)
We were lucky to enjoy extremely close views on some Black-bellied Sandgrouses (Pterocles orientalis), including this female.
Trumpeter Finch (Bucanetes githagineus) close up.
Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata)

Day 9. Fuerteventura – Gran Canaria. We woke up in Fuerteventura in another windy morning. In our way to the airport, we did a couple of stops to try to have some migratory birds, but we really few luck. In our stops we only got 1 European Bee-eater, 2 Dunlins in full summer plumage and 3 Western Yellow Wagtails along with Eurasian Hoopoes, Linnets and some Berthelot’s Pipits.

Once in Gran Canaria, we drove up in the hills with the hope of contacting with the extremely scarce Gran Canaria Blue Chaffinch. With an estimated population of about 50 males left, this is the most endangered songbird in the Macaronesia!

Our way up provided us the best views on Plain Swifts so far in the trip as they were feeding along the lane, showing us their flight capabilities and taking advantage of the strong wind to fly really low over the tarmac. A couple of Canary Island Chaffinch also crossed the road and a Common Kestrel (dacotiae race) was also seen hunting. We arrived to the mature pine forests that serve as a habitat for this extremely endangered species. Right arrived, we had a bird singing a number of times up in the canopy. It was midday, and we were surprised to listen the bird singing. Unfortunately we couldn’t locate the bird, and we hang around some time, convinced that the finch could not be really far away. During this time, we got nice views on the Gran Canaria Chaffinch, and enjoy very much with a pair of Great Spotted Woodpeckers that were attending a nest nearby. Some Atlantic Canaries were also active, feeding in the area so our Chaffinch could not be far away!

We dispersed a bit, and finally was James who found the feeding along with some Canaries. The bird flew off, landing next to Dorothy, who pointed out the bird and anyone in the group could enjoy close views on this extremely scarce bird! Mission accomplished, and in less than 1 hour, so we still had time to go down to the coast and try to contact with the long staying Sudan Golden Sparrows in a urban parc in the capital city of the island. Here we got Ring-necked Parakeets, the long-staying (and ship assisted) Pied Crow, Eurasian Blackcaps and intimate views on Canary Islands Chiffchaffs and Atlantic Canaries. But, unfortunately, we never saw the Sparrows.

From here, we still have a drive to our accommodation, where we had a wonderful dinner in a local restaurant. Well, the clients had a wonderful dinner and the tour leader got his tiramisu stolen by some guests!!!!!!! How is this even possible!?!?

Gran Canaria Blue Chaffinch (Fringilla polatzeki), an extremely endangered endemic songbird.
The amazing cliffs of Gran Canaria, a nesting site of Barolo’s Shearwaters.
Happy faces after contacting with Gran Canaria Chaffinch!

Day 10. Gran Canaria – Madeira. This was basically a transfer day. With the few time available we tried again the Sudan Golden Sparrows but, as a local birdwatcher told us, they seemed to be vanished from their normal spots.

In the evening we landed in Madeira and we directly went to our accommodation for some rest.

Atlantic Canary (Serinus canaria) in a urban park in Las Palmas.

Day 11. Madeira. Relaxed morning to explore the outskirts of our accommodation and work some of the logistics for the offshores to come. Common Sandpiper, Common Waxbills, Grey Wagtail and Lesser Black-backed Gull was the most interesting birds before we step on the boat.

Once on the ocean, We headed South and soon after we were enjoying the first Cory’s Shearwaters of the trip. The ocean was a bit rough and we had to break through several 3 metres high waves to arrive to the proper birding places. But we were not alone, since several Bulwer’s Petrels were flying around. We counted at least 10 of this very smart sea birds. Along with the common Cory’s Shearwaters we also had a small number of Manx’s since here is one of the Southernmost places where do they nest!

But everything started to pack together when we had our first Pterodroma in the air. At the beginning the bird was a bit far away but we didn’t have to wait long before the bird came closer, confirming what most suspected, we were admiring a Zino’s Petrel, one of the most scarce see birds in this part of the world!!

Nesting high in the central part of the island, Zino’s Petrel main known colony is about 200 pairs! We all got solid views in this majestic bird, and we were surprised to see a 2nd Zino’s Petrel flying a bit more far away off our ship!

In the way to back, we had a good surprise, since a Barolo Shearwater took off along with some Manx Shearwaters. Unfortunately, not everyone in the group could enjoy thi tiny Shearwater.. When arriving to the harbour, a distant Whimbrel was also a nice adding to our trip list.

Cory’s Shearwater (Calonectris diomedea) during our first Madeiran offshore.
Bulwer’s Petrels (Bulweria bulwerii) were surprisingly common in our first boat trip.
Zino’s Petrel (Pterodroma madeira) flying close to our boat.

Day 12. Madeira. After a nice breakfast, we went to spend the morning looking for the endemics living in the island. A first exploration close to the accommodation produced nice views on the both Madeiran Chaffinch and Madeiran Firecrest plus several Eurasian Blackcaps and a few Common Buzzards and Goldfinches. From here we moved to Funchal, where a nice short walk inside a local garden produced very nice views on the also endemic Trocaz Pigeon. Back to the accommodation, we had a free afternoon before going with our nocturnal walk up to visit the Zino’s Petrel colony.

Walking in the night in the highest mountains in Madeira is always as impressive as the first time. The scenery is abrupt, broken and has the sense of mystery and discovery that everyone is searching when travelling around the world. That night was rather cold, and the squeals of the Petrels arrived to us as distant ecos in the mist.

Madeiran Chaffinch (Fringilla madeirensis), another recent split for our group!
Madeira Firecrest (Regulus madeirensis), my closest ever views on a Regulus Warbler!
Trocaz Pigeon (Columba trocaz), a very impressive inhabitant of the indigenous forests in Madeira.

Day 13. Madeira. After a late breakfast, we went to the Eastern tip of Madeira, a good place to have a couple of complementary species in the island. As we parked the car, we noticed Spectacled Warblers in the low scrublands. For our surprise, James and Sonja found a nest with a female inside, probably protecting the young birds from the strong and rather cold wind blowing that morning. Both male and female were doing several visits to the nest, feeding the youngs, and both alternate on lying on the young birds.

Our walk around produced a bunch of Atlantic Canaries and good views on Berthelot’s Pipits. Spectacled Warblers were well active all around the slope. We were in search of the small population of Common Rock Sparrows living here, and we were surprised to find a female-type Trumpeter Finch instead! It was at the top of a fence, and it looked like be moving along with the several Atlantic Canaries around! This is a big rarity in Madeira, with only a handful of previous records!

Really happy to have this really good bird in our visit to Madeira, we moved a bit away to scan a slope where we previously heard the Common Rock Sparrows calling. We scanned a bit with poor results, and we were about to leave when Barbara just came to us with a great image of a Common Rock Sparrow sitting on a rock. We parked again the minibus, walked down the slope and soon we were having a nice pair of Rock Sparrows that looked like collecting food for a close nest! This last stop was nicely complemented by a Red-legged Partridge peacefully sitting on a small bare area. Even if not natural to the island, this is always a handsome bird to have.

Happy after this nice morning, we just came back to the accommodation for a nice lunch a good rest before our 2nd offshore.

Spectacled Warbler (Curruca conspicillata), inhabits low scrubland both in the coast and in the top of the highest mountains.
Trumpeter Finch (Bucanetes githagineus); third record for Madeira?
Common Rock Sparrow (Petronia petronia). As some islands around the Macaronesia, Madeira holds a small population of them.

This time we headed North-East, and the offshore was dominated by good numbers of Bulwer’s Petrels moving around the boat. We also had at least 3 European Storm Petrels feeding along, and we could compare this small species with 2 Wilson’s Stormies that also came along, offering very and several views. To end the afternoon we had rather distant but solid views on 1 Madeiran Storm Petrel that, unfortunately, never came close enough but that we enjoyed very much! In the way back, we had nice flocks of both Manx & Cory’s Shearwaters resting on the sea, providing some very close views..

Cory’s Shearwater (Calonectris diomedea).
European Storm Petrel (Hydrobates pelagicus) showing the wide underwing band.
Wilson’s Storm Petrel (Oceanites oceanicus) came, at times, very close to the boat!
European Storm Petrel (Hydrobates pelagicus)
Wilson’s Storm Petrel (Oceanites oceanicus) “walking” the sea.
A nice pod of Short-finned Pilot Whales (Globicephala macrorrhynchus) came across our boat.
Manx Shearwater (Puffinus puffinus) close up.

Day 14. Morning off. Last offshore. After having a free morning to enjoy the wonderful Madeiran wines, we assembled again in the afternoon, ready for our last offshore in this island. In our way to the harbour we were joined by a small flock of Ruddy Turnstones; 6 of them were feeding at the end of a small stream.

It was clearly less windy than the previous days, and the offshore was again dominated by the good numbers of Cory’s Shearwaters and Bulwer’s Petrels. Soon, we were again enjoying both Wilson’s & European Storm Petrels, but all the eyes turned away from them when a wonderful Desertas Petrel appeared in the sky. Darker and structurally heavier (especially when it comes to the bill) than Zino’s, we all enjoyed several views on this really unknown taxon while riding the waves!

So nice to enjoy a flock of Ruddy Turnstones (Arenaria interpres) in our way to the dock!
Wilson’s Storm Petrel (Oceanites oceanicus) in mild afternoon light.
Deserta’s Petrel (Pterodroma deserta) with its island as a background.
Deserta’s Petrel (Pterodroma deserta) -left- versus Bulwer’s Petrel (Bulweria bulwerii) -right.

Day 15. Madeira. This day we were supposed to fly to Sao Miguel, but our flight was cancelled. We got the news early in the morning, and some of the tour participants took a guided walk around Funchal, while the rest stayed at the accommodation to enjoy some rest.

After a morning of telephone calls to make sure that our accommodation and minibus were still waiting for us at Ponta Delgada the they after, some of us reassembled again for an afternoon walk. Along the stream next to our accommodation we got a drake Glossy Ibis along with the common Muscovy Ducks. Eurasian Moorhen was also an island tick, and along with these species we got the normal selection of Atlantic Canaries, Common Waxbills, Eurasian Blackcaps and Eurasian Blackbirds. A Grey Wagtail was showing nicely in the stream, and at the far end of it we still got 4 Ruddy Turnstones feeding among the rocks. From here we got a taxi to explore the Westernmost point of the island. A walk around produced again nice views on Rock Sparrows, Berthelot’s Pipits and Spectacled Warblers. Here, 3 Barn Swallows were a new surprise. Our walk around also produced really a pair of Roseate Terns holding a territory in the Northern coast of the island. They were quite far away, but we spent 40 minutes enjoying scope views to make sure that everybody catched the absence of a black rear edge in the wings.

After this we just went back to the accommodation to get ready for a nice evening meal.

A drake Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus), a description species for Madeira.
Without wind, we got several sights on Spectacled Warblers (Curruca conspicillata), like this female.

Day 16. Madeira – Sao Miguel. After our flight was delayed for one day, we finally got out of Madeira, landing in Ponta Delgada during the early afternoon. Before living Madeira we saw again the drake Glossy Ibis in the creek by the hotel, and Dorothée and Sonja had a Western House Martin flying around the airport.

Once in Sao Miguel, we directly moved to one of the strongholds for the endemic and very endangered Azores Bullfinich. In the way we got a good selection of the common birds in this island including several European Robins, Common Buzzards, Grey Wagtails, Common Starlings and Atlantic Canaries (very common here). We also got a few Common Woodpigeons, Eurasian Goldfinches and ruff views on the endemic Azores Chaffinch.

Once at the place we started looking for these small Bullfinches. For about one hour we quietly scanned the vegetation looking for movement, but we only got Goldcrests and Blackcaps singing around us. At some point we started to disperse when suddenly Keith yelled from down the path. We all ran down to find him pointing up in the hillside, where two superb Azores Bullfinches were feeding in a small tree. This was a lifer bird for all, including me, and it was really celebrated considering the few time we got to try to find it!

The birds went away after some minutes of sighting, and we walked down to the van. But we were around the van William saw something flying down inside a small creek. We went to see what it was, and James found the two Bullfinches feeding only a couple of metres away from the group, really low in the vegetation! This was a wonderful view, way better that what we were expecting to have in such a short period of time.

From here we went down to our accommodation, with one stop to have better views on the Azores Chaffinches. There, we got also really got looks on 1 Azores Noctule, the only endemic mammal of the islands, flying in full daylight! Around our accommodation, a shortstop was added to scan a small island. Beyond the small colony of Common Terns, we got to see 9 Cory’s Shearwaters flying really close to the coast in really good light.

Azores Chaffinch (Fringilla moreletti) feeding in an open land.
Azores Bullfinch (Pyrrhula murina)
Azores Bullfinch (Pyrrhula murina) close up.

Day 17. Sao Miguel – Terceira. Before our connection flight with Terceira, we had time to explore a bit the promenade around Ponta Delgada, where we got 3 Whimbrels and 4 Ruddy Turnstones along with the typical views on some Cory’s Shearwaters moving not especially close to the coast. A second stop was made by the Lagoa Verde, to enjoy further views on Azores Chaffinches, Azorean Common Woodpigeon, Atlantic Canaries, Common Terns, Goldcrests and Little Egrets.

Once arrived to Terceira, we had an afternoon walk around the famous Paúl de Praia Victoria. Nothing of interest was seen beyond Common Waxbills and some pairs of Moorhens and Coots and an escaped Cockatail. At the evening, a further walk produced an interesting Great White Egret (a local rarity) roosting in the lagoon.

Great White Egret (Ardea alba) roosting in Terceira.
Azores Common Woodpigeon (Columba palumbus azorica), another splittable race.

Day 18. Terceira. After breakfast we walked down to the harbour, where our boat was waiting for us. That morning we had a bit of rain, but nothing really serious.

Out in the sea, we soon had the first Cory’s Shearwaters but our eyes were looking for something smaller. It didn’t take long before we got the first 2 Barolo’s Shearwaters, and soon after another 3 or 4 birds moving along with Cory’s. The difference of size was just incredible. Other small flocks were seen, with great views and also great photo chances! Beyond the Shearwaters, we had to go further South before we got the main target of the offshore. It was a bit long waiting, with the Ocean being really plain, but suddenly a wonderful Monteiro’s Storm Petrel showed out for us, performing in a great way and allowing us to see its forked tail. What a stunner!

Very glad with this great species, we just went back to Terceira while enjoying more Barolo’s Shearwaters. At the end, no less than 14 Barolo’s were seen, not bad at all!

We were lucky to get lovely views on Monteiro’s Storm Petrel (Oceanodroma monteiroi)
Our group back to the harbour in Terceira after enjoying Monteiro’s Storm Petrel.
Barolo Shearwaters (Puffinus baroli) were surprisingly common around Terceira.

Day 19. Terceira – Lisbon. This was basically a travel day back to Lisbon, but our midday flight allowed us some local birding before leaving Açores. A short walk from our accommodation gave us access to a very nice farmland. Keith was here the they before, and he was already enjoying the Common Quails. That was our main target for the morning and after some search we finally found the first of them. And then a second and even a third bird, all of them singing from the top of the lovely stone walls that served to mark the limits of the properties. Along with them, waves of Atlantic Canaries, Blackbirds and Blackcaps to say goodbye to these wonderful islands!

Arrived to Lisbon, we just went down the corner of our accommodation, where a very nice local restaurant was waiting for the group. It was another pleasant dinner full of fun and good mod. A perfect way to end the first half of the Odyssey!

Common Quail (Coturnix coturnix) singing from a stone edge.

Day 20. Lisbon – Sofia. Early morning flight connecting Lisbon with Sofia, the capital city of Bulgaria. Our group of guests landed and they immediately met Sergi and their local guide, but all of that will be explained soon..

List of birds seen during the tour

  1. Mute Swan (Cygnus olor)
  2. Ruddy Shelduck (Tadorna ferruginea)
  3. Common Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna)
  4. Greylag Goose (Anser anser)
  5. Marbled Teal (Mamaronetta angustirostris)
  6. Gadwall (Marecca strepera)
  7. Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)
  8. Northern Pintail (Anas acuta)
  9. Northern Shoveler (Spatula clypeata)
  10. Garganey (Spatula querquedula)
  11. Common Pochard (Aythya ferina)
  12. Ferruginous Duck (Aythya nyroca)
  13. White-headed Duck (Oxyura leucocephala)
  14. Common Quail (Coturnix coturnix)
  15. Red-legged Partridge (Alectoris rufa)
  16. Barbary Partridge (Alectoris barbara)
  17. European Nightjar (Caprimulgus europaeus)
  18. Red-necked Nightjar (Caprimulgus ruficollis)
  19. Common Pheasant (Phaisanus colchinus)
  20. Little Bustard (Tetrax tetrax)
  21. Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata)
  22. Common Swift (Apus apus)
  23. Plain Swift (Apus unicolor)
  24. Pallid Swift (Apus pallidus)
  25. Alpine Swift (Tachymarpstis melba)
  26. Common Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus)
  27. Great Spotted Cuckoo (Clamator glandarius)
  28. Pin-tailed Sandgrouse (Pterocles alchata)
  29. Black-bellied Sandgrouse (Pterocles orientalis)
  30. Feral Pigeon (Columba livia)
  31. Stock Dove (Columba oenas)
  32. Common Wood Pigeon (Columba palumbus)
  33. Trocaz Pigeon (Columba trocaz)
  34. Bolle’s Pigeon (Columba bollii)
  35. Laurel Pigeon (Columba junoniae)
  36. European Turtle Dove (Streptopelia turtur)
  37. Eurasian Collared Dove (Streptopelia decaocto)
  38. Laughing Dove (Streptopelia senegalensis)
  39. Water Rail (Rallus aquaticus) —————————— heard only
  40. Eurasian Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus)
  41. Red-knobbed Coot (Fulica cristata)
  42. Eurasian Coot (Fulica atra)
  43. Western Swamphen (Porphyrio porphyrio)
  44. Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
  45. Great Crested Grebe (Podiceps cristatus)
  46. Corncrake (Crex crex) —————————————- heard only
  47. Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus roseus)
  48. Stone Curlew (Burhinus oedicnemus)
  49. Eurasian Oystercatcher (Haematopus ostralegus)
  50. Black-winged Stilt (Himantopus himantopus)
  51. Pied Avocet (Recurvirostra avosetta)
  52. Common Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula)
  53. Little Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius)
  54. Kentish Plover (Charadrius alexandrinus)
  55. Grey Plover (Pluvialis squatarola)
  56. Northern Lapwing (Vanellus vanellus)
  57. Spur-winged Lapwing (Vanellus spinosus)
  58. Temminck’s Stint (Calidris temminckii)
  59. Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres)
  60. Red Knot (Calidris canutus)
  61. Sanderling (Calidris alba)
  62. Dunlin (Calidris alpina)
  63. Little Stint (Calidris minuta)
  64. Curlew Sandpiper (Calidris ferruginea)
  65. Ruff (Calidris pugnax)
  66. Common Snipe (Gallinago gallinago)
  67. Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)
  68. Eurasian Curlew (Numenius arquata)
  69. Bar-tailed Godwit (Limosa lapponica)
  70. Black-tailed Godwit (Limosa limosa)
  71. Eurasian Curlew (Numenius arquata)
  72. Common Redshank (Tringa totanus)
  73. Greenshank (Tringa nebularia)
  74. Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola)
  75. Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos)
  76. Cream-coloured Courser (Cursorior cursor)
  77. Collared Pratincole (Pratincola glareola)
  78. Black-headed Gull (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
  79. Mediterranean Gull (Ichthyaetus melanocephalus)
  80. Audouin’s Gull (Ichthyaetus audouinii)
  81. Caspian Gull (Larus cachinnans)
  82. Yellow-legged Gull (Larus michahellis)
  83. Lesser Black-backed Gull (Larus fuscus)
  84. Caspian Tern (Hydroprogne caspia)
  85. Common Tern (Sterna hirundo)
  86. Roseate Tern (Sterna dougallii)
  87. Little Tern (Sternula albifrons)
  88. Sandwich Tern (Thalasseus sandvicensis)
  89. Gull-billed Tern (Gelochelidon nilotica)
  90. Whiskered Tern (Chlidonias hybridus)
  91. Black Tern (Chlidonias niger)
  92. Black-throated Diver (Gavia arctica)
  93. Wilson’s Storm Petrel (Oceanites oceanicus)
  94. European Storm Petrel (Hydrobates pelagicus)
  95. Madeiran (Band-rumped) Storm Petrel (Oceonodroma castro)
  96. Monteiro’s Storm Petrel (Oceonodroma monteiroi)
  97. Zino’s Petrel (Pterodroma madeira)
  98. Desertas Petrel (Pterodroma desertas)
  99. Scopoli’s Shearwater (Calonectris diomedea)
  100. Cory’s Shearwater (Calonectris borealis)
  101. Manx Shearwater (Puffinus puffinus)
  102. Barolo Shearwater (Puffinus baroli)
  103. Bulwer’s Petrel (Bulweria bulwerii)
  104. White Stork (Ciconia ciconia)
  105. Black Stork (Ciconia nigra)
  106. Atlantic Gannet (Morus bassanus)
  107. Great Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo)
  108. Shag (Pahalacrocorax aristotelis)
  109. Pygmy Cormorant (Phalacrocorax pigmaeus)
  110. Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus)
  111. Eurasian Spoonbill (Platalea leucorodia)
  112. Little Bittern (Ixobrychus minutus)
  113. Black-crowned Night Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax)
  114. Squacco Heron (Ardeola ralloides)
  115. Western Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis)
  116. Little Egret (Egretta garzetta)
  117. Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea)
  118. Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea)
  119. White Egret (Ardea alba)
  120. Great White Pelican (Pelecanus ococratus)
  121. Dalmatian Pelican (Pelecanus crispus)
  122. Osprey (Pandion haliaetos)
  123. Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus)
  124. European Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivorus)
  125. Eurasian Griffon (Gyps fulvus)
  126. Cinereous Vulture (Aegypius monachus)
  127. Short-toed Snake Eagle (Circaetus gallicus)
  128. Lesser Spotted Eagle (Clanga pomarina)
  129. Booted Eagle (Aquila pennata)
  130. Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos)
  131. Eastern Imperial Eagle (Aquila heliaca)
  132. Levant Sparrowhawk (Accipiter brevipes)
  133. Eurasian Sparrowhawk (Accipiter nisus)
  134. Western Marsh Harrier (Circus aeruginosus)
  135. Montagu’s Harrier (Circus pygargus)
  136. Red Kite (Milvus milvus)
  137. Black Kite (Milvus migrans)
  138. Long-legged Buzzard (Buteo rufinus)
  139. Common Buzzard (Buteo buteo)
  140. White-tailed Eagle (Haliaetus albicilla)
  141. Western Barn Owl (Tyto alba)
  142. Little Owl (Athene noctua)
  143. Eurasian Scops Owl (Otus scops)
  144. Cyprus Scops Owl (Otus cyprius)
  145. Long-eared Owl (Asio otus)
  146. European Roller (Coracias garrulus)
  147. European Bee-eater (Merops apiaster)
  148. Eurasian Hoopoe (Upupa epops)
  149. Eurasian Wryneck (Jynx torquilla)
  150. European Green Woodpecker (Picus viridis)
  151. Iberian Green Woodpecker (Picus sharpei)
  152. Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius)
  153. Eurasian Three-toed Woodpecker (Picoides trydactylus)
  154. Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major)
  155. Syrian Woodpecker (Dendrocopos syriacus)
  156. Middle Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos medius)
  157. Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (Dryobates minor)
  158. Common Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus)
  159. Lesser Kestrel (Falco naumani)
  160. Red-footed Falcon (Falco vespertinus)
  161. Eleonora’s Falcon (Falco eleonorae)
  162. Eurasian Hobby (Falco subbuteo)
  163. Barbary Falcon (Falco peregrinoides)
  164. Monk Parakeet (Myiopsitta monachus)
  165. Rose-ringed Parakeet (Psittacula krameri)
  166. Great Grey Shrike (Lanius excubitor)
  167. Iberian Grey Shrike (Lanius meridionalis)
  168. Lesser Grey Shrike (Lanius minor)
  169. Red-backed Shrike (Lanius senator)
  170. Masked Shrike (Lanius nubicus)
  171. Woodchat Shrike (Lanius senator)
  172. Eurasian Jay (Garrulus glandarius)
  173. Eurasian Magpie (Pica pica)
  174. Spotted Nutcracker (Nucifraga caryocatactes)
  175. Western Jackdaw (Coloeus monedula)
  176. Pied Crow (Corvus albus)
  177. Carrion Crown (Corvus corone)
  178. Hooded Crow (Corvus cornix)
  179. Common Raven (Corvus corax)
  180. Rook (Corvus frugilegus)
  181. Red-billed Chough (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax)
  182. Alpine Chough (Pyrrhocorax graculus)
  183. Long-tailed Tit (Aegithalos caudatus)
  184. Willow Tit (Poecile montanus)
  185. Marsh Tit (Poecile palustris)
  186. Sombre Tit (Poecile lugubris)
  187. Coal Tit (Periparus ater)
  188. Eurasian Blue Tit (Cyanistes caeruleus)
  189. African Blue Tit (Cyanistes teneriffae)
  190. Great Tit (Parus major)
  191. European Crested Tit (Lophophanes cristatus)
  192. Eurasian Penduline Tit (Remiz pendulinus)
  193. Crested Lark (Galerida cristata)
  194. Thekla Lark (Galerida theklae)
  195. Eurasian Skylark (Alauda arvensis)
  196. Woodlark (Lullula arborea)
  197. Calandra Lark (Melanocorypha calandra)
  198. Dupont’s Lark (Chersophilus duponti)
  199. Mediterranean Short-toed Lark (Alaudala rufescens)
  200. Greater Short-toed Lark (Calandrella brachydactyla)
  201. Red-vented Bulbul (Pycnonotus cafer)
  202. Sand Martin (Riparia riparia)
  203. Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica)
  204. Western House Martin (Delichon urbicum)
  205. European Red-rumped Swallow (Cecropis rufula)
  206. European Crag Martin (Ptyonoprogne rupestris)
  207. Cetti’s Warbler (Cettia cetti)
  208. Iberian Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus ibericus)
  209. Common Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus collybita)
  210. Canary Islands Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus canariensis)
  211. Willow Warbler (Phylloscopus trochilus)
  212. Western Bonelli’s Warbler (Phylloscopus bonelli)
  213. Eastern Bonelli’s Warbler (Phylloscopus orientalis)
  214. Melodious Warbler (Hippolais polyglotta)
  215. Icterine Warbler (Hippolais icterina)
  216. Eastern Olivaceous Warbler (Iduna pallida)
  217. Olive-tree Warbler (Iduna olivatorum)
  218. Eurasian Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus scirpaceus)
  219. Great Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus arundinaceus)
  220. Savi’s Warbler (Locustella luscinioides)
  221. Eurasian Blackcap (Sylvia atricapilla)
  222. Garden Warbler (Sylvia borin)
  223. Common Whitethroat (Curruca communis)
  224. Lesser Whitethroat (Curruca curruca)
  225. Spectacled Warbler (Curruca conscipillata)
  226. Dartford Warbler (Curruca undata)
  227. Balearic Warbler (Curruca balearica)
  228. Sardinian Warbler (Curruca melanocephala)
  229. Rüppell’s Warbler (Curruca rueppelli)
  230. Cyprus Warbler (Curruca melanothorax)
  231. Moltoni’s Warbler (Curruca subalpina)
  232. Eastern Subalpine Warbler (Curruca albistriata)
  233. Western Orphen Warbler (Curruca hortensis)
  234. Eastern Orphean Warbler (Curruca crassirostris)
  235. Zitting Cisticola (Cisticola juncidis)
  236. Eurasian Golden Oriole (Oriolus oriolus)
  237. Common Starling (Sturnus vulgaris)
  238. Spotless Starling (Sturnus unicolor)
  239. Rose-coloured Starling (Pastor roseus)
  240. Common Firecrest (Regulus ignicapilla)
  241. Madeiran Firecrest (Regulus madeirensis)
  242. Goldcrest (Regulus regulus)
  243. Teneriffe Goldcrest (Regulus teneriffae)
  244. Eurasian Wren (Troglodytes troglodytes)
  245. Eurasian Nuthatch (Sitta europaeus)
  246. Western Rock Nuthatch (Sitta neumayer)
  247. Krüper’s Nuthatch (Sitta krueperi)
  248. Eurasian Treecreeper (Certhia familiaris)
  249. Short-toed Treecreeper (Certhia brachydactyla)
  250. Fieldfare (Turdus pilaris)
  251. Song Thrush (Turdus philomelos)
  252. Mistle Thrush (Turdus viscivorus)
  253. Ring Ouzel (Turdus torquatus)
  254. Eurasian Blackbird (Turdus merula)
  255. Common Nightingale (Luscinia megarhynchos)
  256. Thrush Nightingale (Luscinia luscinia)
  257. Rufous-tailed Bush Robin (Cercotrichas galactotes)
  258. Eurasian Robin (Erithacus rubecula)
  259. Black Redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros)
  260. Common Redstart (Phoenicurus phoenicurus)
  261. European Stonechat (Saxicola rubicola)
  262. Fuerteventura Stonechat (Saxicola dacotiae)
  263. Whinchat (Saxicola rubetra)
  264. Northern Wheatear (Oenanthe oenanthe)
  265. Western Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe hispanica)
  266. Eastern Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe melanoleuca)
  267. Pied Wheatear (Oenanthe pleschanka)
  268. Cyprus Wheatear (Oenanthe cypriaca)
  269. Black Wheatear (Oenanthe leucura)
  270. Isabelline Wheatear (Oenanthe isabellina)
  271. Blue Rock Thrush (Monticola solitarius)
  272. Spotted Flycatcher (Muscicapa striata)
  273. Mediterranean Flycatcher (Muscicapa tyrrhenica)
  274. Pied Flycatcher (Ficedula hypoleuca)
  275. Semicollared Flycatcher (Ficedula semitorquata)
  276. Rock Sparrow (Petronia petronia)
  277. House Sparrow (Passer domesticus)
  278. Spanish Sparrow (Passer hispanoliensis)
  279. Eurasian Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus)
  280. Common Waxbill (Estrilda astrild)
  281. Dunnock (Prunella modularis)
  282. Tawny Pipit (Anthus campestris)
  283. Berthelot’s Pipit (Anthus berthelotii)
  284. White Wagtail (Motacilla alba)
  285. Grey Wagtail (Motacilla cinerea)
  286. Western Yellow Wagtail (Motacilla flava)
  287. European Serin (Serinus serinus)
  288. Atlantic Canary (Serinus canaria)
  289. Eurasian Goldfinch (Carduelis carduelis)
  290. Eurasian Greenfinch (Chloris chloris)
  291. Eurasian Siskin (Spinus spinus)
  292. Linnet (Carduelis cannabina)
  293. Common Chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs)
  294. Azores Chaffinch (Fringilla moreletti)
  295. Madeira Chaffinch (Fringilla maderensis)
  296. Canary Island Chaffinch (Fringilla canariensis)
  297. Blue Chaffinch (Fringilla teydea)
  298. Gran Canaria Chaffinch (Fringilla polatzeki)
  299. Hawfinch (Coccothraustes coccothraustes)
  300. Common Crossbill (Loxia curvirostra)
  301. Eurasian Bullfinch (Pyrrhula pyrrhula)
  302. Azores Bullfinch (Pyrrhula murina)
  303. Trumpeter Finch (Bucanetes githagineus)
  304. Reed Bunting (Emberiza schoeniclus)
  305. Yellowhammer (Emberiza citrinella)
  306. Creztchmatz Bunting (Emberiza caesia)
  307. Cirl Bunting (Emberiza cia)
  308. Ortolan Bunting (Emberiza hortulana)
  309. Cinereous Bunting (Emberiza cineracea)
  310. Rock Bunting (Emberiza cia)
  311. Black-headed Bunting (Emberiza melanocephala)
  312. Corn Bunting (Emberiza calandra)

Crònica de viatge: Finlàndia i Finnmark 2024

  • Dates: Del 31 de maig al 9 de juny, 2024
  • Participants: 10
  • Número d’espècies vistes: 170
  • Tour líders: Carles Oliver & Ramiro Aibar

Totes les imatges d’aquesta crònica han estat realitzades per Carles Oliver. Tots els drets reservats.

Please, follow this link to find the English version of this trip report.

Resum: El nostre 7è tour al Nord de Finlàndia i Finnmark ha tornat a ser una aventura força exitosa. La variabilitat d’algunes espècies en aquests hàbitats és ben coneguda i molt destacable. Enguany, va sobtar la quasi total absència de trencapinyes al llarg del recorregut, amb només uns quants contactes i tant sols un parell d’observacions. Amb prou feines hi havia cap observació recent de trencapinyes becgròs a la zona! A l’altra banda de l’espectre, vam aconseguir molt bones observacions de totes les espècies de galls i de 5 espècies de mussols malgrat la baixa densitat d’enguay. El sit rústic i el repicatalons petit semblaven trobar-se a tot arreu en determinats moments del viatge, i la cotxa cuablava i el picot de tres dits també es van deixar veure molt bé i fàcil malgrat algunes temperatures força altes al llarg del tour.

Dia 1. Part del nostre grup va aterrar a Oulu amb una mica de retard degut a un excès de trànsit a l’aeroport de Barcelona. A l’aeroport d’Oulu ens vam trobar a un altre participant, però aquí també vam patir un endarreriment derivat d’un problema amb les furgonetes de lloguer. Normalment gaudim d’una petita finestra de pardaleig a la primera tarda del viatge, però enguany el primer pardaleig del tour va ser després de sopar.

El sopar a l’allotjament va ser el primer moment que tot el grup es va trobar i seure junts i tenint una torre d’observació a tocar de l’hotel no vam passar l’oportunitat de, un cop escurades les postres, fer-hi un cop d’ull un cop. Aquesta passejada va servir per tenir un primer contacte amb tot un seguit d’espècies comunes en aquesta part de Finlàndia incloent tord ala-roig, mastegatatxes, papamosques gris, boscarla dels joncs, bec de serra mitjà, xatracs comú i àrtic, gamba roja comuna, xarxet comú, ànec griset, ànec cullerot o ànec cuallarg però també d’altres una mica més escasses o més interessants com pinsà carminat, àguila marina o tètol cuanegre així com els primers xarrasclets del tour.

Dia 2. El primer dia de pardaleig del tour va tenir com a objectiu principal contactar amb algunes de les espècies de mussols que viuen als boscos boreals. Com sempre, vam començar força d’hora al matí, amb respectius esmorzars per emportar. El temps era fresc i les primeres gralles de la bonica raça escandinava no es van fer esperar, alimentant-se amb graules. La primera parada del tour va ser per visitar un niu actiu de gamarús dels Urals i vam tenir la sort de ser allà en el moment que la femella estava al niu. Tot i que l’angle no era el més adient, tothom va poder gaudir de bones observacions incloent vistes de la cara i els ulls amb el telescopi. Caminant pel bosc boreal, aquell primer passeig va produir cotxa cua-roja i la primera mallerenga capnegra del tour mentre un gall de cua furcada cantava a certa distància.

La segona parada la vam fer per comprovar si un niu històric de mussol pirinenc estava actiu enguany. Aquí també vam tenir sort, i fins i tot des de la pista forestal vam veure un pollet de mussol pirinenc que s’estava dret al mateix forat del niu! Els següents deu minuts van ser simplement fantàstics. Amb tot el grup assegut al terra del bosc boreal, vam gaudir d’unes observacions excel·lents d’aquest pollet mentre anava albirant el bosc al voltant seu. Passats uns minuts vam veure que neguitejava i quasi semblava que havia de saltar del niu. Va ser en aquell moment que un reclam va sortir del bosc i fins i tot abans no poguéssim començar a cercar l’ocell, Nick va trobar per tots nosaltres un segon pollet de mussol pirinenc que estava aturat a només uns 3 metres de tot el grup! Els següents minuts van ser simplement inoblidables, gaudint com poques vegades del petit volaltó. Passats uns minuts vam decidir moure’ns enrere. Sense voler-ho, havíem acabat massa a prop de l’ocell!

Encara vam tenir uns quants minuts per gaudir d’aquell màgic racó del bosc boreal abans no vam seguir el nostre itinerari. De camí cap al següent punt, vam trobar dos mascles d’escorxador que se les tenien al llarg de la pista. Aquests van ser els únics escorxadors del viatge, ja que és una espècie força escassa a la zona! No gaire lluny, una zona de conreus ens va permetre observar hortolans. No vam trigar gaire a trobar el primer mascle cantant des d’un arbre, seguit per al menys dos mascles més i un parell d’individus alimentant-se al terra. Altres espècies d’interès a la zona van incloure també verderola, repicatalons, bitxacs rogencs cantant a dojo als marges i la única tallareta comuna del tour mentre els pinsats carminats cantaven una mica més enllà.

De tornada al bosc, vam anar a una zona molt recomanable per al picot de tres dits. Allà, vam gaudir de valent amb els mosquiters xiulaires però també dels tallarols xerraires i els mastegatatxes. Però tot això va quedar en un segon terme, perquè el que segur alguns no oblidarem van ser les fantàstiques observacions de la parella de picots de tres dits movent-se a pocs metres de nosaltres mentre s’apropaven al seu. Realment va ser un privilegi observar aixó de bé la que podem considerar com l’espècie de picot europeu més difícil d’observar!

Després de gaudir d’aquest espectacle vam fer una parada en una zona humida. Aquí vam observar dues parelles nidificants de cabussons orelluts. I tot que no estaven tant a prop com en viatges anteriors, vam poder gaudir de bones observacions al telescopi. Després d’una mica de cafè i de fer un esmorzar per agafar forces vam tornar al bosc boreal. Vam caminar un parell de quilòmetres per zones d’hàbitat idoni fins que tot d’una un mussolet eurasiàtic va reclamar a pocs metres de nosaltres. Després d’això no vam trigar gaire a localitzar l’ocell i gaudir de fantàstiques observacions del mussol més petit del continent. Era el final del matí i el nostre petit mussol anava seguit per una bona corrua d’ocells forestals. Aquest reguitzell de reclams super-excitats incloia lluers, pinsans comuns, mallerenga carbonera, cotxa cua-roja i una verderola. A voltes, semblava que la verderola aixeca més passions que el propi mussolet (!). Coses del directe, suposo. El mussol anava movent-se, constantment destorbat per aquesta petita cohort d’agreujats.

Amb aquesta observació va acabar un matí prou fructífer! Després va tocar dinar i descansar una mica.

Els picots de tres dits (Picoides tridactylus) ens van oferir observacions inoblidables. Vam gaudir d’aquesta espècie fins a tres vegades al llarg del tour!
Femella (baix) i mascle (dalt) de picot de tres dits al voltant del seu niu.
Els hortolans (Emberiza hortulana) són una espècie força escassa a Finlàndia, però als voltants d’Oulu encara mantenen bones poblacions.
Mussol pirinenc (Aegolius funereus) a les portes del seu niu.
Vam passar 5 minuts inoblidables amb aquest pollet de mussol pirinenc a pocs metres de nosaltres.
El mussolet eurasiàtic (Glaucidium passerinum) també es va portar molt bé!
El mussolet despegant!
Bona part del grup gaudint del mussol pirinenc.

Després de sopar ens vam desplaçar al Nord del nostre allotjament, a unes de les últimes zones de nidificació de la siseta cendrosa a Finlàndia. Després d’aparcar, vam fer un bon tomb per la zona a on vam poder observar becut, pinsà carminat, corriol gros i els dos únics corriols anellats petits del viatge. Una siseta cendrosa cantava per la zona, però es resistia a deixar-se veure. Va ser l’Aonghus qui la va trobar cantant a dalt de tot d’un fanal a uns 300 metres de distància. Encara vam haver de caminar una mica però al final vam gaudir d’observacions increïbles amb un ocell cantant i fent dispaly al nostre voltant. Mentre exploràvem la zona també vam veure els primers còlits grisos dels tour.

Molt contents d’haver gaudit d’aquesta espècie tant escassa vam tornar cap al nostre allotjament i descansar per poder gaudir d’un altre gran dia!

Enguany hi havien bons números de pinsats carminats al llarg dels primers dies del viatge. Aquí una bonica femella.
Siseta cendrosa (Xenus cinereus) volant per sobre nostre mentre cantava en vol.

Dia 3. Abans d’esmorzar a l’allotjament vam aprofitar per visitar una de les famoses torres d’observació al voltant d’Oulu. N’hi han un bon grapat per escollir, però nosaltres vam fer cap a un situada al Sud de la badia Liminganlahti. Aquest cop el número d’ocells no va tant espectacular com en ocasions anteriors però tot i així aquí vam veure bons números de becadell comú i 6 gambes roges pintades a més de batallaires, àguiles marines, els únics 2 cignes muts dels tour, repicatalons cantant i xatracs àrtics. Aquí també vam tenir el privilegi de sentir un bitó cantant.

Un cop esmorzats vam sortir de l’allotjament per dirigir-nos ja cap a Oulu. De camí, vam fer una parada en una altra zona forestal molt bona per picots. Era el final del matí i la temperatura (tot i que sembla difícil de creure) vorejava els 30ºC en el que va ser el dia més càlid en un mes de maig a la història de Finlàndia! En aquesta parada vam veure senyals de picot cendrós però els nostres esforços només ens van reportar un picot negre que ens va passar volant per sobre, aturant-se a dalt de tot d’un arbre per oferir al grup una molt bona observació. També vam veure pinsans borroners de la subespècie nominal amb el seu característic reclam de trompeta, piules dels arbres picots garsers grossos.

Al llarg d’aquest matí vam tenir les millors observacions de becadell comú (Gallinago gallinago) del tour.
Malgrat els 30ºC vam gaudir de bones observacions de picot negre (Dryocopus martius)

Vam fer una parada per dinar i vam arribar a Kuusamo a començaments de la tarda. El temps aquí era molt diferent que el havíem patit a la costa del Bàltic i la temperatura no passava dels 20ºC amb pluges disperses que s’anaven movent per la zona. La nostra primera parada a la zona va ser en un petit senderol per cercars sits. Ja des del lloc a on vam deixar els vehicles podia sentir cantar alguna espècie força interessant. Fet i fet va ser arribar i moldre i en qüestió d’un parell de minuts ja gaudíem de dos repicatalons petits cantant a curta distància i deixant-se veure durant molta estona! Érem a tocar d’un llac i un bon número de gavines menudes anaven passant per sobre nostre, quasi totes a força alçada. Però a uns pocs minuts en cote ens vam plantar en una colònia de cria d’aquestes petites gavines. Aquí no només vam gaudir desenes d’aquestes ocells, també vam observar dues parelles de cabussons grisos i les primeres calàbries agulles en plomatge estival del tour. Una estona d’observació des d’aquest punt privilegiat va produir també mussol emigrant i molt bones observacions de gavià fosc de la subespècie nominal. Altres espècies a la zona van incloure ànec xiulador, ànec cuallarg, xarxet comú, l’omnipresent tord ala-roig i una fantàstica becada cantant en vol i creuant-se amb un becadell comú que també anava fent la seva pròpia exhibició en vol!

Des d’aquí ens vam desplaçar al nostre allotjament per gaudir d’un bon estofat de re i poder descansar una mica!

Podem dir que els repicatalons petits (Emberiza pusilla) es van deixar veure d’allò més bé!
Veure una colònia de gavines menudes (Hydrocolaeus minimus) és sempre una experiència fantàstica!
Un dels pocs gavians foscos (Larus fuscus fuscus) del viatge!
Part del grup gaudint d’un dels repicatalons petit.

Dia 4. Un altre cop comencem ben d’hora, aquest cop per explorar un seguit d’hàbitats ben a prop del nostre allotjament. L’objectiu del matí és contactar amb algunes de les especialitats que viuen al bosc boreal. Només a 300 metres de l’hotel vam trobar el primer petit estol de sits rústics, 3 individus que van sortir volant de la pista i que vam poder observar malgrat la llum encara pobre. Una mica d’exploració més enllà va produir un mascle de gall fer, que malauradament només el van poder gaudir com cal els ocupants del segon vehicle. Una hora i escaig d’exploració va produir ben poca cosa més, amb només un mascle de gall de cua forcada aturat a dalt de tot d’una pícea i una perdiu escandinava a tocar de pista que només van veure des del segon vehicle. Malgrat tot, vam gaudir de les millors vistes de becades mentre una parella s’alimentava a un prat.

Després d’una parada per gaudir d’un bon café ens vam dirigir cap a un dels molts turons de la zona però força abans d’arribar vam haver de parar per gaudir d’una parella de grèvols que es perseguien just al límit del bosc. Ens vam anar movent pel bosc, amb els grèvols força actius; cantant, xisclant i fent aletejos al mig del bosc. Després d’uns quants minuts tothom al grup ja havia tingut bones observacions d’aquesta espècie sovint esquerpa. A més a més, mentre ens movíem pel bosc també vam trobar un altre sit rústic i un parell de gaigs siberians movent-se a les capçades dels arbres. Una mica més enllà, vam tenir el nostre primer intent de contactar amb mussol esparverenc, però aquesta parada “només” va produir un parell de sits rústics, mallerenga capnegre, piula dels arbres i un picot de tres dits breuvement vist per alguns al grup.

Finalment vam arribar a Livaara, una de les parades més típiques per ocells forestals al Nord de Finlàndia. El sol, però, ja estava ben amunt i malauradament feia una mica de calor. Tot i això, vam enfilar el camí i tot just arribats a la zona més interessant del turó vam trobar la nostra primera cotxa cuablava cantant des de dalt de tot d’una pícea. Tots vam poder gaudir força estona d’aquest primer individu. Un segon mascle (tots dos ocells eren segons anys) cantava més enllà i el vam poder veure molt bé amb el telescopi mentre cantava a una cota inferior a la que ens trobàvem. Més enllà d’aquestes fantàstiques cotxes cuablaves, al turó només vam trobar piula dels arbres i papamosques gris com a espècies d’interès.

Després de dinar, la nostra tarda va ser curta i lliure perquè tothom pogués explorar en llibertat els encontorns del nostre allotjament. Valones, cucuts, gambes verdes i calàbries agulles van ser algunes de les espècies observades quasi per tothom.

Aquest gall de cua furcada (Lyrurus tetrix) va ser el millor gall per al grup al voltant de Kuusamo. El resultat més pobre en anys!
Mallerenga capnegra (Poecile montanus) viu en boscos de pi i pícees al Nord de Finlàndia.
Les becades (Scolopax rusticola) són comunes però sempre difícils d’observar al Nord de Finlàndia.
Enguany els sits rústics (Emberiza rustica) semblaven ser a tot arreu però mai vam aconseguir apropar-nos-en.
Les cotxes cuablaves (Tarsiger cyanurus) poden ser sorprenentment difícils de trobar. Però no aquest cop!
Una mica del fantàstic bosc de pícees al voltant de Kuusamo.

Dia 5. Un nou dia al paradís i un nou inici de jornada ben d’hora, ben d’hora. La primera parada del matí va ser a un lloc molt bo per a perdiu escandinava. En visites anteriors sempre havíem tingut grans observacions d’aquesta espècie aquí però enguany ens vam haver de conformar amb un mascle en vol. Aquí també vam veure els únics trencapinyes comuns aturats del viatge (ha estat un any amb molt pocs trencapinyes al Nord de Finlàndia) i un bonic raspinell pirinenc. De tornada a les furgonetes dos ants van sortir de l’espessor del bosc i es van deixar veure ben bé al llarg d’un minut mentre ens fitaven a una distància prudent.

Era un matí emboirat als turons així que vam decidir de fer un segon tomb per mirar de contactar galls però novament amb poc èxit. Tot amb tot, uns ocells sedosos en vol en mig de la boira va ser el millor de la parada. La última parada del matí va ser per a un ben conegut indret per a gaig siberià. Aquí vam veure les que possiblement hagin estat les meves millors observacions en aquesta espècie en 8 visites a Finlàndia, amb un parell d’exemplars literalment als nostres peus. Aquí també vam veure molt bé mallerenga capnegra, pinsà borroner i reietó. No gaire lluny 3 cotxes cuablaves cantaven però el grup ja estava sadollat d’aquesta espècie i no vam provar de pujar cap turó.

Des d’aquí vam començar el trànsfer al Nord però la nostra típica parada de cafè (i els millors donuts de Lapònia) va ser arruïnada per una punxada que ens va fer perdre una hora. Després de comprar un nou pneumàtic, vam continuar fent via cap al Nord, gaudint de camí unes fantàstiques creps. Des del mateix restaurant vam observar dues calàbries agulles en un sorprenentment tardà plomatge hivernal i la única àguila pescadora de tot el tour.

Raspinell pirinenc (Certhia familiaris)
Ant (Alces alces) sortint del forest.
Aquest matí vam gaudir com mai del gaig siberià (Perisoreus infaustus)

Arribats a Ivalo, encara vam tenir temps per a una bona estona de pardaleig en un gran raconet de Lapònia. En la nostra primera parada al bosc ja vam trobar una parella de mallerengues de Lapònia, que van fer les delícies del grup i es van deixar fotografiar al llarg de força estona. Aquí també vam veure diversos passerells golanegres. Una petita passejada per allà al voltant va produir també una fantàstica parella d’ocells sedosos mentre s’alimentaven a curta distància. A més a més, un fantàstic picot de tres dits també va aparèixer quasi al mateix temps i tothom va poder gaudir de bones observacions per segon cop al tour. Tot plegat, un meravellós botí per a una horeta i escaig de pardaleig. Malauradament, en aquesta zona, normalment, molt bona per trencapinyes, no en vam veure ni sentir-ne cap…

Un cop tornats als vehicles encara vam haver de tornar fins a la carretera general i aquesta petita estona vam tenir, com és habitual, bones observacions. La temperatura era de 15ºC i estava nuvolat quan un estol de 8 galls de cua furcada mascles van creuar sortir del bosc, aturant-se a pocs metres de nosaltres. Tothom va gaudir d’un moment inoblidable. Una mica més enllà una femella de gall fer s’alimentava al sotabosc però el millor encara havia d’arribar quan l’Alba va trobar una nova femella de gall fer, aquest cop estirada a terra in perfectament camuflada al llit arbustiu. Una autèntica meravella! Després de força estona gaudint dels increïbles detalls del plomatge d’aquesta femella i molt a contracor, vam marxar per digirir-nos, ara sí, al nostre allotjament, sopar, descansar i comentar un altre fantàstic dia!

La molt perllongada observació de les mallerengues de Lapònia (Poecile cinctus) va produïr molt bones imatges!
Picot de tres dits (Picoides tridactylus) a pocs metres de la mallerenga de Lapònia i els ocells sedosos.
Enguany, els ocell sedosos (Bombycilla graculus) tenia bones densitats al Nord de Lapònia.
Gall de cua furcada (Lyrurus tetrix) a prop d’Ivalo.
Femella de gall fer (Tetrao urogallus) enllitada al bosc. Una fantàstica troballa de l’Alba.

Dia 6. Després de gaudir d’un bon esmorzar al nostre allotjament vam fer un petit passeig al voltant de l’hotel. Els pinsans dels pins es veuen aquí a les menjadores que tenen al voltant i es poden fer observacions francament bones. També sovintejaven els pinsans mecs, els passarells golanegres i els verdums. A més a més, el petit llac del costat vam veure 3 becs de serra petits incloent dos fantàstics mascles i una parella d’ànecs foscos que estaven niant al voltant del llac.

Dirigint-nos cap al Nord en direcció a la frontera noruega vam fer un seguit de parades per escanejar els nombrosos llacs. A quasi cada parada hi havien becs de serra mitjans, cignes cantaires i morells d’ulls grocs. Les valones nien a les zones de maresma i van gaudir de les primeres cotxes blaves del viatge. Més al Nord encara, una nova parada afegir aligot calçat a la llista del viatge, quan quatre individus volaven l’aparcament. En un riu proper, una merla d’aigua va passar rabent sobre l’aigua…

Al pas fronterer vam fer parada per dinar, el més pintoresc del tour! Escolteu, quanta gent coneixeu que hagi tastat estofat Sami d’ant? Doncs apa, nosaltres sí! Molts ens ho pensarem dues vegades abans de repetir…

El pinsà dels pins (Pinicola enucleator) és sempre una espècie força cobejada als grups. Mascle a dalt i femella a baix.
Foto anecdòtica de l’ànec fosc (Melanitta fusca)

Un cop endinsats a Noruega vam continuar fent via al Nord. La propera parada pròpiament dita va ser per explorar la desembocadura d’un torrent al gran fiord de Varanger. Aquí normalment s’hi acumulen limícols i làrids de diverses menes. Aquí vam veure els primers batallaires en plomatge nupcial del tour però també altres limícols com garses de mar, territs variants i territs menuts. Aquí els gavians argentats són comuns junt a gavinots i gavines cendroses. Les primeres gavinetes de tres dits també es banyaven a les vores. Escoltats tota l’estona per aligots calçats, paràsits cuapunxeguts i àguiles marines, vam continuant fent via. Parades obligades van ser per mirar els primers estols d’oques pradenques de la tundra.

En una badia a prop de Vadso vam estar-nos més estona. Ja era ben entrada la tarda i una meravellosa llum banyava la badia. Aquí vam començar per escanejar els ocells que s’alimentaven a les platges. Al costat dels abundants èiders comuns vam trobar gambes roges comunes i tètols cuabarrats en plomatge estival. Però la sorpresa va ser trobar un estol de 4 èiders reials, incloent un mascle de 1r estiu, quasi a l’altre banda de la badia i que tots vam poder gaudir als telescopis.

Un petit passeig per la zona va continuar oferint bones observacions. Una petita bassa propera concentrava fins a 87 escuraflascons bec-fins (!) que s’alimentaven, perseguien i arraulien tot al voltant del llac. Es fa difícil de descriure la bellesa de l’escena, amb tots aquells minúsculs limícols en plomatge nupcial, flirtejant a la llacuna i donant voltes sobre ells mateixos a una velocitat de vertígen per capturar els petits insectes dels que s’alimenten. Tot això en l’ambient net, quasi verge, de la tundra àrtica. I aquell dia encara van estar més de sort: a més a més dels escuraflascons, la bassa també havia atret un petit estol de 40 batallaires, amb alguns mascles lluint les seves plomes nupcials, saltant, esbarallant-se i lluitant en una escena que de ben segur perdurarà anys a la nostra memòria!

Una ràpida ullada a la costa encara va produir més espècies incloent becut i els primers remena-rocs del viatge junt amb corriols grossos. Al mar, mil·lers de gavinetes de tres dits feien via cap a les seves colònies de cria, seguides de prop per paràsits cuapenxeguts i gavinots. Una mirada més detallada va revelar una parella calàbries petites. De tornada als vehicles encara vam poder gaudir de la primera piula gola-roja del viatge.

De tornada als cotxes vam anar afer paradeta a una estació de servei, però al seu darrera hi ha un raconet que sempre és bo per a limícoles, així que només aparcar vaig a treure el nas i quina va ser la meva sorpresa de trobar una siseta cendrosa alimentant-se amb un estol de territs variants en un plomatge nupcial radiant!

Oques pradenques (Anser serrirostris) amb batallaires en un prat de Varanger.
Vam gaudir d’observacions fantàstiques a la primera basseta per escuraflascons que vam visitar. Femella a dalt i mascle a baix.
Èider (Somateria mollissima). Pocs ànecs són tan elegants al nostre continent!
Batallaires (Calidris pugnax) exhibint-se .
We were lucky to enjoy some nice Ruff action!
Un parell de garses de mar rodejats d’escuraflascons.
Aquí també vam veure les primeres piules gola-roges (Anthus cervinus).
Vam tenir la sort de trobar aquesta siseta cendrosa (Xenus cinereus) alimentant-se al costat de territs variants (Calidris alpina)!
Àguila marina (Hieraaetus albicilla) posant pel grup. Sempre és fantàstic veure així de bé una de les icones de l’Àrtic.

Dia 7. Després de gaudir d’un molt bon esmorzar noruec vam caminar la curta distància que ens separava de la badia de Vardo. Aquí, nombroses gavinetes de tres dits entraven i sortien de les seves colònies dins del poble. Amb ells, xatracs comuns i àrtics. Aquest dia tocava vaixell i illa de Hornoya. El trajecte en vaixell dura amb prou feines deu minuts però van ser prous per guaitar 4 fulmars que ens van passant rabent per sobre. Aquí dalt, els fulmars són de la famosa varietat blava, típica de l’Àrtic. Malauradament no tothom els va poder veure!

Una de les estampes més impressionants de Hornoya es produeix fins i tot abans d’arribar a la illa. En els últims centenars de metres abans d’arrivar el mar està literalment emmantellat amb mil·lers de somorgollaires i gavots. És simplement alucinant veure aquell mar de somorgollaires, una cosa que no he vist mai en cap altre colònia d’aus marines, almenys a l’Atlactic Nord.

Tot i les variacions interanuals, Hornoya acull unes 50.000 parelles de somorgollaires, prop d’un 15% dels quals de la varietat embridada. Amb ells, hi nien unes 30.000 parelles de gavinetes de tres dits, mil·lers de gavots, uns 3.000 frarets, centenars de corbs marins emplomallats i petits números de fulmars que combines amb les petites colònies de somorgollaire de Brünnich (menys de 3.000 parelles).

El passeig per l’illa ens va permetre observar totes aquestes espècies i també altres especialitats com grassets de costa, piules gola-roges, una bonica parella de territs de Temminck, oques de galta blanca, bec de serra grossos i cotxa blava. Al camí de pujada al far el Joan i la Roser van trobar un bonic passerell becgroc.

Els territs foscos s’alimentaven a tocar de l’allotjament (Calidris matitima).
Xatrac àrtic (Sterna paradisaea)
Primer plà de gavot (Alca torda). L’ocell marí més elegant del continent?
Somorgollaire “embridat” a la colònia.
Somorgollaire (Uria aalge) preparant-se pel vol.
Fraret atlàntic (Fratercula arctica).
Somorgollaire de Brünnich (Uria lomvia) -dreta- i somorgollaire comú -esquerra.
Fraret atlàntic (Fratercula arctica) tornant a la colònia després d’alimentar-se al mar.
La molt bonica gavineta de tres dits (Rissa tridactyla).
Grasset de costa (Anthus petrosus litoralis) niant a les parts més baixes de l’illa..

De tornada al continent ens vam dirigir encara més cap al Nord. Malauradament el continent estava cobert d’una espessa boira. Però la boira no ens va impedir gaudir d’una espectacular perdiu escandinava que just acabava de fer un bany de sorra. Quina sort! Allà a on boira obria fèiem una parada per escanejar les badies i les platges: estols de becs de serra grossos, ànecs glacials i ànecs negres s’alimentaven aquí i allà. A voltes hi trobàvem alguna calàbria o ànecs foscos. La boira persistia i ens va donar poques oportunitats per gaudir de passerells àrtics, cotxes blaves i tords ala-rojos. Després de gaudir del pic-nic vam fer cap al Sud, encara txequejant el mar cada cop que la boira ho permetia. Tot mirant un grup d’èiders vam descobrir la primera calàbria de bec pàl·lid del viatge surant al mar. Vam aparcar els cotxes quasi de qualsevol manera per grimpar vessant avall, plantar els telescopis i gaudir d’aquest ocell tant espectacular. L’au era mig quilòmetres de nosaltres, apareixia i desapareixia a la boira i els somorgollaires alablancs volaven darrera seu, amb alguna foca grisa ocasional. Inoblidable!

Molt satisfets d’haver trobar aquesta espècie vam començar a tornar cap a l’allotjament. Però tot just abans d’arribar encara vam tenir una última parada. Una calàbria de bec pàl·lid s’havia anat veient dins una badia de Vardo. I allà hi era, però dormia enmig d’una molt densa boira que amb prou feines ens va deixar apreciar cap detall.

Aquesta perdiu escandinava (Lagopus lagopus) acabava el seu bany de sorra quan la vam trobar.
Estol d’ànecs negres (Melanitta nigra) a una badia.
La primera calàbria de bec pàl·lid (Gavia adamsii) del viatge va tenir tot els components del Nord més indòmit!
Aquests rens (Rangifer tarandus) quasi es podien donar per salvatges. Quasi.

Dia 8. Aquest dia vam tornar a explorar les zones més al Nord de la Península de Varanger. Però abans d’enfilar la carretera vam fer parada obligada a la mateixa badia a on vam acabar el dia anterior. Aquí, en un trencall de la boira, vam gaudir d’inesborrables observacions de calàbria de bec pàl·lid. L’ocell tot just es despertava del sopor “nocturn” quan vam arribar. Amb la calàbria a menys de 40 metres de nosaltres, les observacions van ser simplement increïbles, amb l’au obrint ales i arreglant-se el plomatge a voltes apropant-se, a voltes allunyant-se de nosaltres sense que mai se la veiés molesta pel desplegament òptic al seu voltant. A la platgeta, 3 territs foscos s’alimentaven força a prop, però ningú parava esment…

De tornada a la feina, vam aprofitar que la boira s’enretirava definitavament per fer una parada a la tundra. Aquí vam obtenir excel·lents observacions de sit de Lapònia però batallaires en plena batalla pel domini d’aquell racó de tundra. Amb ells, també nombrosos paràsits cuapunxeguts que lluitaven per fer fora les àguiles marines i els aligots calçats que voleiaven la zona. Els xisclets de les daurades grosses es barrejaven amb els refilets trencats dels territs variants i les esbojarrades frases de les cotxes blaves. Més enllà, una perdiu escandinava s’ho mirava tot amb mandra des d’una petitíssima elevació.

Aquestes delicioses observacions de calàbria de bec pàl·lid van anar més enllà de qualsevol expectació i l’ocell va ser escollit un dels cinc millors del tour!
GUAU!
Sit de Lapònia (Calcarius lapponicus), Probablement un dels ocells més carismàtics de la tundra
Cotxa blava (Luscinia svecica)

Arribats a les zones més altes, vam fer una parada per gaudir del pic-nic. Aquí, vam tenir la sort de trobar un niu de passerells àrtics que va fer les delícies de tothom. Al voltant del mateix llac hi vam veure ànecs glacials, valones, titelles i cotxes blaves a molt curta distància. Més enllà, els paràsits cuallargs ja patrullaven els turons.

Conduint a través la tundra vam veure un bon grapat de perdius escandinaves i una segona bassa ens va permetre veure de ben a prop una parella de calàbries petites que es preparaven per niar allà mateix. Aquí també vam gaudir de batallaires, escuraflascons bec-fins, xarxets comuns, ànecs cullargs, els dos únics morells buixots del tour, piules gola-roges i tètols cuabarrats (nidificant molt escàs a la zona) junt a un bon grapat més d’altres espècies.

Baixant cap a la costa vam fer parada en un lloc interessant per a falcó grifó, però sense resultats. De retruc, vam tornar a veure àguiles marines i aligots calçats. Ja cap al vespre vam tornar cap a les zones de tundra. De camí cap allà les perdius escandinaves anaven volant amunt i avall i vam trobar la única esmerla del tour, un bonic mascle que estava aturat a una petita roca!

Uns minuts més tard ja ens trobàvem en un hàbitat més escaient per a les espècies més “alpines” de Varanger. Bé cal dir que no ens va costar gens de trobar la primera perdiu blanca, que s’estava a dalt d’una petita pedra tot i el fort (i fred) vent que hi bufava. El paisatge era força rocallós i els moviments de l’ocell ens va permetre descobrir també una femella. Aquí també vam veure la primera alosa banyuda del viatge, però va sortir volant, perdent-se amb el fort vent. Vam decidir de moure’ns cap a un racó més arrecerat. De camí, vam tornar a veure territs de Temminck menjant aquí i allà, calàbries i força becs de serra mitjans. La última parada del dia no podia haver estat més profitosa: només arribar, una fantàstica perdiu blanca va començar a cantar a pocs metres de nosaltres i una parella d’aloses banyudes van aparèixer també ben a prop dels vehicles. A uns 300 metres, el Ramiro va albirar quelcom petit i blanc. Així amb alguna excusa vam moure a tot el grup cap allà i, efectivament, allà ens esperava un superb sit blanc lluint la seva blancor a la neu. Com a colofó, les aloses van venir també cap aquí i totes dues espècies van començar a cantar quasi a duo!

Des d’aquí ens vam dirigir cap al nostre allotjament per gaudir d’un molt bon sopar!

Ànec glacial (Clangula hyemalis) mascle encara migrant cap al Nord.
Passerell àrtic (Acanthis hornemanni) a prop del seu niu.
Calàbria agulla (Gavia arctica) vestit de gala per nosaltres.
Somorgollaires alablancs (Cepphus grylle) a tocar de la caixa niu
Les observacions de perdiu blanca (Lagopus mutus) van ser inmillorables (Lagopus mutus)
Alosa banyuda (Eremophila alpestris) controlant el seu territori.
Poques coses es poden comparar a un mascle de sit blanc (Plectrophenax nivalis) en plomatge estival!

Dia 9. Un altre dia assolejat a la tundra Àrtica i el nostre grup ja era fora de l’hotel molt d’hora al matí. Després de tenir un esmorzar un xic massa senzill, ens vam conjurar per dinar d’hora.

La primera parada va ser per gaudir d’una parella de paràsits cuallargs que va oferir-nos una observació excel·lent mentre recorrien el raconet de tundra a tenien pensat fer el niu. Enguany, el número d’aquests elegants ocells estava clarament per sota de la mitjana.

Ens vam arribar a la costa per fer una mica de “seawatching” des d’un punt prominent. Des d’allà vam estar encantats de veure un enorme estol amb centenars de fulmars blaus que es movien al voltant d’un vaixell pesquer. Estol rere estol, els becs de serra grossos continuaven migrant cap al Nord-est, a les seves zones de nidificació a Sibèria. Un gran estol d’ànecs glacials s’alimentava just davant la nostra posició i llavors va saltar la sorpresa quan Mark va trobar un magnífic mascle d’èider reial alimentant-se amb ells! Més enllà, diverses calàbries feien també la seva migració cap a l’Est. Hi vam veure les dues espècies més habituals i també una gran calàbria de bec pàl·lid, la tercera del viatge! Altres espècies d’interés aquí van incloure força somorgollaires alablancs, èiders comuns, bec de serra mitjans i frarets volant tots cap a l’Est. Com a colofó, un fantàstic grifó ens va passar rabent en direcció Oest, talment que només uns quants vam poder gaudir del falcó més poderós!

Abans de dinar encara vam tenir temps de pardalejar a una badia. Allà, entre els estols de les espècies més típiques el Mark va trobar un juvenil de gavina menuda. Aquí també vam veure territs de Temminck i mirant els estols d’èiders vam trobar un mínim de 4 èiders reials, tots tipus femella. Aquest cop i malgrat la boira, tothom en va poder gaudir d’allò més.

Després de menjar unes pizzes prou saboroses en pub local ens vam dirigir cap al Sud, sortint de Varanger i retornant a Finlàndia sense cap parada que reportés res de nou o massa destacable.

Els paràsits cuallargs (Stercorarius longicaudus) eren escassos, segurament degut al col·lapse de les poblacions de talpons.
Calàbria petita (Gavia stellata) nia a força basses i llacs de la tundra.
Al llarg del matí vam tenir un parell d’encontres fantàstics amb àguiles marines (Hieraaetus albicilla).
Mascle d’èider reial (Somateria spectabilis) a l’Oceà Àrtic.
Femella d’Èider reial (dalt) i dues d’èider comú.
Més imatges d’èider reial.

Dia 10. Bàsicament un dia de trànsfer. El grup es va dividir en dos degut als diferents horaris dels avions, amb el gruix principal del grup llevant-se ben d’hora per a fer un llarg trajecte que ens portaria de tornada a Oulu i un petita part que s’estava a Ivalo per agafar un avió aquell vespre. El gruix del grup vam marxar i vam començar el dia fent una parada a la cerca de mussol esparverenc. Ho havíem provat diverses vegades sense sort, però aquest cop ja vam sentir els reclams del mussol des del pàrking mateix i un parell de minuts després la teníem a poca distància mentre albirava el seu territori dalt estant d’un pi. Vam gaudir d’una bona estona i, fins i tot vam veure el mascle venint i donant-li a la femella un rossegador que ella es va empassar ràpidament.

A més dels mussols, aquells bosquet també tenia una parella de mallerengues de Lapònia que anaven reclamant per la zona. Però encara vam tenir més sort, perquè allà a prop un becadell de Wilson havia estat marcant territori. Ens hi vam apropar i el vam sentir cantar un parell de vegades mentre volava per la zona! A més, aquesta última parada encara va afegir una nova espècie pel viatge; un pòlit cantaire.

De tornada a la furgoneta, vam continuar el nostre trajecte cap al Sud. Tots anàvem cansats i al llarg de les properes dues hores vam estar buscant desesperadament un lloc a on aturar-nos i fer un cafè. A desgrat nostre, vam comprobar com de difícil pot ser de trobar un cafè a Lapònia un diumenge al matí… Finalment vam trobar cafè i fins i tot vam trobar un mussol emigrant que ens va fer un parell de passades força espectaculars a la carretera abans no vam arribar a l’aeroport!

I fins aquí arriba la crònica del nostre 7è tour per terres del Nord de Finlàndia i Finnmark. Un indret fascinant al que ja tinc ganes de tornar al 2025. De ben segur que serà tant i tant bo com la resta d’edicions!

Finalment i després d’uns quants intents, vam aconsguir unes ben merescudes observacions de mussol esparverenc (Surnia ulula).
Mussol esparverenc en acció!
Aquest mussol emigrant (Asio flammeus) va ser la última especialitat del viatge.

Llista dels ocells vistos al llarg del tour

  1. Cigne cantaire – Whooper Swan (Cygnus cygnus)
  2. Cigne mut – Mute Swan (Cygnus olor)
  3. Ànec blanc – Common Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna)
  4. Oca comuna – Greylag Goose (Anser anser)
  5. Oca pradenca de la tundra – Tundra Bean Goose (Anser serrirostris)
  6. Oca de bec curt – Pink-footed Goose (Anser brachyrhynchus)
  7. Oca de galta blanca – Barnacle Goose (Branta leucopsis)
  8. Ànec xiulador – Eurasian Wigeon (Marecca penelope)
  9. Ànec griset – Gadwall (Marecca strepera)
  10. Xarxet comú – Eurasial Teal (Anas crecca)
  11. Ànec coll-verd – Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)
  12. Ànec cuallarg – Northern Pintail (Anas acuta)
  13. Ànec cullerot – Northern Shoveler (Spatula clypeata)
  14. Xarrasclet – Garganey (Spatula querquedula)
  15. Morell de plomall – Tufted Duck (Aythya fuligula)
  16. Morell buixot – Scaup (Aythya marila)
  17. Èider comú – Common Eider (Somateria mollissima)
  18. Èider reial – King Eider (Somateria spectabilis)
  19. Ànec glacial – Long-tailed Duck (Clangula hyemalis)
  20. Ànec negre – Common Scoter (Melanitta nigra)
  21. Ànec fosc – Velvet Scoter (Melanitta fusca)
  22. Morell d’ulls grocs – Goldeneye (Bucephala clangula)
  23. Bec de serra petit – Smew (Mergellus albellus)
  24. Bec de serra gros – Goosander (Mergus merganser)
  25. Bec de serra mitjà – Red-breasted Merganser (Mergus serratus)
  26. Faisà comú – Common Pheasant (Phaisanus colchinus)
  27. Grèvol – Hazel Grouse (Bonasa bonasia)
  28. Perdiu escandinava – Willow Grouse (Lagopus lagopus)
  29. Perdiu blanca – Rock Ptarmigan (Lagopus mutus)
  30. Gall de cua forcada – Black Grouse (Lyrurus tetrix)
  31. Gall fer – Western Capercaillie (Tetrao urogallus)
  32. Falciot negre – Common Swift (Apus apus)
  33. Cucut comú – Common Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus)
  34. Colom roquer – Feral Pigeon (Columba livia)
  35. Tudó – Common Wood pigeon (Columba palumbus)
  36. Grua europea – Common Crane (Grus grus)
  37. Cabussó emplomallat – Great Crested Grebe (Podiceps cristatus)
  38. Cabussó gris – Red-necked Grebe (Podiceps grisegena)
  39. Cabussó orellut – Slavonian Grebe (Podiceps auritus)
  40. Guatlla maresa – Corncrake (Crex crex) ———————————– només sentit
  41. Garsa de mar – Eurasian Oystercatcher (Haematopus ostralegus)
  42. Corriol gros – Common Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula)
  43. Corriol anellat petit – Little Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius)
  44. Daurada grossa – European Golden Plover (Pluvialis apricaria)
  45. Fredeluga comuna – Northern Lapwing (Vanellus vanellus)
  46. Territ de Temminck – Temminck’s Stint (Calidris temminckii)
  47. Territ variant – Dunlin (Calidris alpina)
  48. Territ menut – Little Stint (Calidris minuta)
  49. Territ fosc – Purple Sandpiper (Calidris maritima)
  50. Batallaire – Ruff (Calidris pugnax)
  51. Becada – Eurasian Woodcock (Scolopax rusticola)
  52. Becadell comú – Common Snipe (Gallinago gallinago)
  53. Becadell de Wilson – Wilson’s Snipe (Gallinago delicata) —————— només sentit
  54. Tètol cuabarrat – Bar-tailed Godwit (Limosa lapponica)
  55. Tètol cuanegre – Black-tailed Godwit (Limosa limosa)
  56. Becut europeu – Eurasian Curlews (Numenius arquata)
  57. Pòlit cantaire – Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)
  58. Gamba roja pintada – Spotted Redshank (Tringa erythropus)
  59. Gamba roja comuna – Common Redshank (Tringa totanus)
  60. Gamba verda – Greenshank (Tringa nebularia)
  61. Valona – Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola)
  62. Xivita – Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus)
  63. Siseta cendrosa – Terek’s Sandpiper (Xenus cinereus)
  64. Xivitona – Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos)
  65. Remena-rocs – Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres)
  66. Escuraflascons bec-fí – Red-necked Phalarope (Phalaropus lobatus)
  67. Gavina menuda – Little Gull (Hydrocoloeus minutus)
  68. Gavina riallera – Black-headed Gull (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
  69. Gavina cendrosa – Common Gull (Larus canus)
  70. Gavinot – Great Black-backed Gull (Larus marinus)
  71. Gavià argentat – Herring Gull (Larus argentatus)
  72. Gavineta de tres dits – Kittiwake (Rissa trydactyla)
  73. Xatrac comú – Common Tern (Sterna hirundo)
  74. Xatrac àrtic – Arctic Tern (Sterna paradisaea)
  75. Paràsit cuapunxegut – Arctic Skua (Stercorarius parasiticus)
  76. Paràsit cuallarg – Long-tailed Skua (Stercorarius longicaudus)
  77. Somorgollaire comú – Guillemot (Uria aalge)
  78. Somorgollaire de Brünnich – Brünnich’s Guillemot (Uria lomvia)
  79. Gavot – Razorbill (Alca torda)
  80. Somorgollaire alablanc – Black Guillemot (Cepphus grylie)
  81. Fraret atlàntic – Atlantic Puffin (Fratercula arctica)
  82. Calàbria petita – Red-throated Diver (Gavia stellata)
  83. Calàbria agulla – Black-throated Diver (Gavia arctica)
  84. Calàbria de bec pàl·lid – White-billed Diver (Gavia adamsii)
  85. Fulmar – Northern Fulmar (Fulmarus glaciallis)
  86. Corb marí gros – Great Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo)
  87. Corb marí emplomallat – Shag (Gulosus aristotelis)
  88. Bitó – Greater Bittern (Botaurus stellaris) ———— només sentit
  89. Àguila pescadora (Pandion haliaetos)
  90. Arpella comuna (Circus aeruginosus)
  91. Aligot calçat (Buteo lagopus)
  92. Aligot vesper (Pernis apivorus)
  93. Àguila marina (Haliaetus albicilla)
  94. Mussol emigrant (Asio flammeus)
  95. Mussol pirinenc (Aegolius funereus)
  96. Gamarús dels Urals (Strix uralensis)
  97. Mussol esparverenc (Surnia ulula)
  98. Mussolet eurasiàtic (Glaucidium passerinum)
  99. Picot garser gros (Dendrocopos major)
  100. Picot garser petit (Dryobates minor)
  101. Picot de tres dits (Picoides tridactylus)
  102. Picot negre (Dryocopus martius)
  103. Xoriguer comú (Falco tinnunculus)
  104. Esmerla (Falco columbarius)
  105. Grifó – Gyrfalcon (Falco rusticolus)
  106. Escorxador – Red-backed Shrike (Lanius excubitor)
  107. Gaig siberià – Siberian Jay (Perisoreus infaustus)
  108. Garsa – Eurasian Magpie (Pica pica)
  109. Gralla occidental – Western Jackdaw (Coloeus monedula)
  110. Cornella negre – Hooded Crow (Corvus cornix)
  111. Corb comú – Common Raven (Corvus corax)
  112. Ocell sedós – Bohemian Waxbill (Bombycilla garrulus)
  113. Mallerenga capnegra – Willow Tit (Poecile montanus)
  114. Mallerenga de Lapònia – Siberian Tit (Poecile cinctus)
  115. Mallerenga blava – Eurasian Blue Tit (Cyanistes caeruleus)
  116. Mallerenga carboera – Great Tit (Parus major)
  117. Alosa comuna – Eurasian Skylark (Alauda arvensis)
  118. Alosa banyuda – Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris)
  119. Oreneta de ribera – Sand Martin (Riparia riparia)
  120. Oreneta comuna – Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica)
  121. Oreneta cuablanca – Western House Martin (Delichon urbicum)
  122. Mosquiter comú – Common Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus collybita)
  123. Mosquiter de passa – Willow Warbler (Phylloscopus trochilus)
  124. Mosquiter xiulaire – Wood Warbler (Phylloscopus sibilatrix)
  125. Boscarla dels joncs – Sedge Warbler (Acrocephalus schoenobaenus)
  126. Tallarol gros – Garden Warbler (Sylvia borin)
  127. Tallareta comuna – Common Whitethroat (Curruca communis)
  128. Tallarol xerraire – Lesser Whitethroat (Curruca curruca)
  129. Reietó – Goldcrest (Regulus regulus)
  130. Cargolet – Eurasian Wren (Troglodytes troglodytes)
  131. Raspinell pirinenc – Eurasian Treecreeper (Certhia familiaris)
  132. Estornell comú – Common Starling (Sturnus vulgaris)
  133. Griva cerdana – Fieldfare (Turdus pilaris)
  134. Tord comú – Song Thrush (Turdus philomelos)
  135. Tord ala-roig – Eurasian Redwing (Turdus iliacus)
  136. Griva – Mistle Thrush (Turdus viscivorus)
  137. Merla comuna – Eurasian Blackbird (Turdus merula)
  138. Pit-roig – Eurasian Robin (Erithacus rubecula) —————- només sentit
  139. Cotxa blava (Luscinia svecica)
  140. Cotxa cuablava (Tarsiger cyanurus)
  141. Cotxa cua-roja (Phoenicurus phoenicurus)
  142. Bitxac rogenc (Saxicola rubetra)
  143. Còlit gris (Oenanthe oenanthe)
  144. Papamosques gris (Muscicapa striata)
  145. Mastegatatxes (Ficedula hypoleuca)
  146. Merla d’aigua (Cinclus cinclus)
  147. Pardal comú – House Sparrow (Passer domesticus)
  148. Pardal xarrec – Eurasian Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus)
  149. Pardal de bardissa – Dunnock (Prunella modularis)
  150. Titella – Meadow Pipit (Anthus pratensis)
  151. Piula dels arbres – Tree Pipit (Anthus trivialis)
  152. Piula gola-roja – Red-throated Pipit (Anthus cervinus)
  153. Grasset de costa – Rock Pipit (Anthus petrosus)
  154. Cuereta blanca – White Wagtail (Motacilla alba)
  155. Cuereta groga – Yellow Wagtail (Motacilla flava)
  156. Pinsà comú – Common Chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs)
  157. Pinsà mec – Brambling (Fringilla montifringilla)
  158. Verdum eurasiàtic – Eurasian Greenfinch (Chloris chloris)
  159. Lluer – Eurasian Siskin (Spinus spinus)
  160. Passerell comú – Linnet (Carduelis cannabina)
  161. Passerell golanegre – Common Redpoll (Carduelis flammea)
  162. Passerell àrtic – Arctic Redpoll (Carduelis hornemanni)
  163. Passerell becgroc – Twite (Carduelis flavirostris)
  164. Trencapinyes comú – Common Crossbill (Loxia curvirostra)
  165. Pinsà carminat – Common Rosefinch (Carpodacus erythrinus)
  166. Pinsà borroner – Eurasian Bullfinch (Pyrrhula pyrrhula)
  167. Pinsà dels pins – Pine Grosbeak (Pinicola enucleator)
  168. Sit de Lapònia – Lapland Bunting (Calcarius lapponicus)
  169. Sit blanc – Snow Bunting (Plectrophenax nivalis)
  170. Verderola – Yellowhammer (Emberiza citrinella)
  171. Hortolà – Ortolan Bunting (Emberiza hortulana)
  172. Repicatalons – Reed Bunting (Emberiza schoeniclus)
  173. Sit rústic – Rustic Bunting (Emberiza rustica)
  174. Repicatalons petit – Little Bunting (Emberiza pusilla)

Llista de mamífers vistos al llarg del tour

  1. Llebre europea – European Hare (Leppus leppus)
  2. Llebre àrtica – Mountain Hare (Leppus timidus)
  3. Esquirol europeu – Red Squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris)
  4. Erminy – Stout (Mustela arminea)
  5. Guineu – Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes)
  6. Foca gris – Grey Seal (Halichoerus grypus)
  7. Ant – Moose (Alces alces)
  8. Re – Reindeer (Rangifer tarandus)*
  9. Rorqual comú (Balaenoptera phisalus)
  10. Rorqual d’aleta blanca (Balaenoptera acurostrata)

*Feral

Finland 2024 Birding Trip Report

  • Dates: From May 31st to June 9th, 2024
  • Tour participants: 10
  • Number of species seen: 170
  • Tour leader: Carles Oliver & Ramiro Aibar

All images in this trip report by Carles Oliver. All rights reserved.

Overview: Our 7th tour in Northern Finland & Finnmark was again a very successful adventure, despite some notorious absences. One of the most noticeable things during the trip was the almost total absence of Crossbills, with extremely few contacts and only a couple of proper sights. Parrot Crossbills seemed disappeared, with no records at all in the area. We got excellent views on all the Grouses during the trip, plus 5 species of Owls despite the low density of them both around Oulu and in Varanger. On the contrary, both Rustic & Little Buntings seemed to be everywhere in some parts of the trip, and Red-flanked Bluetail & Three-toed Woodpecker performed for our group in a very straightforward way.

Day 1. Part of group landed in Oulu with a small delay due to the heavy traffic at Barcelona Airport. We met some of the clients at Oulu Airport, where we got delayed again due to a problem with the delivery of one of the vans. We normally have a small window of birding in this first afternoon of the trip, but those delays smashed that window and the first birding of the tour was done after dinner.

We met the rest of the tour participants at the dinner, and taking advantage of the very late sunset, we had a small walk immediately around the hotel. Here we had a first contact with some common birds in this part of Finland, including Redwing, Pied & Spotted Flycatchers, Sedge Warbler, Red-breasted Merganser, Common & Arctic Terns, Common Redshank, Oystercatcher, Eurasian Teal, Gadwall, Northern Shoveler, Pintails but also other species a bit more scarce in this area such as Common Rosefinch, White-tailed Eagle, Black-tailed Godwits and the very first drake Garganeys of the tour.

Day 2. This day we went out for some owling. As always, a very early start is required so we left our accommodation ready to enjoy the first birding day of the trip, and our packed breakfasts! Small flocks of the distinctive Baltic race of the Western Jackdaw were everywhere, along with some Rooks. Our first stop was to check a nesting hole that was being used by Ural Owl, and we were lucky enough to be there when the female was on the nest. Even if the angle was not easy, everybody had good views on the bird including scope views on the face and the eyes of the bird. Walking in the boreal forest we heard the first Black Grouse of the trip as well as Common Redstart and the first of many Scandinavian Willow Tit.

A second stop in the boreal forest was to check a nesting area of Tengmalm’s Owl. Again, we were very lucky and even from the edge of the woods we saw a lovely chick of Tengmalm’s with its head blocking the aperture of the nest. The next ten minutes were simply magnificent. With the group sitting down on the boreal forest, we had excellent views on this chick while moving its head side to side, observing the trees around. At some point, it became clearly excited, almost about to jump from the nest! Suddenly, a call came from the forest but before we searched for the bird, Nick pointed out second chick of Tengmalm’s Owl that was perched only 3 metres away from us! The views on this 2nd bird were simply amazing, and after a couple of minutes we decided to step back. We found ourselves to be too close!

We still had some minutes to keep enjoying the Tengmalm’s Owls before moving to a different spot. In the way, we got 2 Red-backed Shrikes moving in the road, the only ones of the tour! Our next stop was close by in one of the several farming areas hosting Ortolan Buntings around Oulu. It didn’t take us long before finding the first male singing, followed by at least 2 other males and 2 more birds feeding on the ground. Other interesting birds here included Yellowhammer, Reed Bunting, some drake Whinchats singing in the edges of the fields and Common Whitethroat while Common Rosefinch was singing around.

Back to the forest, we explored a suitable spot for Three-toed Woodpecker. Here, we got nice views on Wood Warblers but also on Lesser Whitethroats and Pied Flycatchers. Still, all of this goes to a second frame, because the main character of the stop were the obliging pair of Eurasian Three-toed Woodpecker attending its nest only a few metres away from us! It was a real privilege to see the often considered as the most difficult species of woodpecker in Europe so close and for so long!

After such a great moment we decided to change a bit of ambient and a fast stop in a small lake produced two nesting pairs of Slavonian Grebes. Unfortunately they were not as close as in previous trips, but offered us good views anyway. Our next stop was to check a proper spot for Eurasian Pygmy Owl. Back in spot with dense spruce forest, it didn’t take long before we got a bird calling deep in the woods, and a couple of minutes later we got the bird moving around us! It was late in the morning, and the Pygmy Owl was followed by a cohort of forest birds including several Siskins but also 2 Chaffinches, 1 Great Tit, 1 Common Redstart and 1 Yellowhammer. The Owl was constantly moving around, being disturbed and moved by the smaller birds and the best way to try to locate it was to follow the flock of small birds calling and moving in the canopy.

This was actually the last birding stop of the morning. It was time for an early lunch and a very well deserved break. Since we had some small problems with one of the vans, no serious birding was programmed until after dinner.

Eurasian Three-toed Woodpecker (Picoides tridactylus) provide the group with unforgettable views, and three different sights during the trip!
Female (down) & male (up) three-toed Woodpecker around their nesting hole.
Ortolan Bunting (Emberiza hortulana) is a scarce nesting species in Finland that keeps some strong spots around Oulu.
Tengmalm’s Owl (Aegolius funereus) showing out of the nest.
We enjoyed 5 unforgettable minutes with very close views on this Tengmalm’s fledging.
Eurasian Pygmy Owl (Glaucidium passerinum) performed really well for our group!
Flying Pygmy Owl. Something not that easy to catch!
Part of our group enjoying the Tengmalm’s Owl.

After dinner we covered the short distance to the very last spot for nesting Terek’s Sandpipers in Finland. After parking our vans, we had a small walk around enjoying Common Rosefinch, Eurasian Curlew, Common Ringed Plover and the only 2 Little Ringed Plovers of the trip. A Terek’s Sandpiper was singing around but we were unable to connect with the bird. Finally, it was Aonghus who found the bird singing from the top of a distant lamp post. We walked down to the bird, but still took us 10 or 15 minutes to finally enjoy wonderful views, with the bird displaying around us and stopping in the lamp posts around us. In the walk, I got Caspian Tern and Northern Wheatear but I was the only one to notice them. Unfortunately, that was the only Caspian Tern to show out in the whole tour..

Very happy after these great views on Terek’s Sandpipers, we went back to the accommodation to have a very well deserved rest after a wonderful first day of the trip!

This year there were decent numbers of Common Rosefinches during the first days of the trip. Here a lovely female.
Terek’s Sandpiper (Xenus cinereus) gave us excellent views after a funny circular walk all around its territory..

Day 3. Before breakfast we visited a birding tower around Oulu. This is a really well known spot for general birding in the area, and in former trips we have got amazing lists here! This time the number of birds was more reduced but still we got good views on Common Snipe, distant Spotted Redshanks (6), but also Ruffs, White-tailed Eagles, the only 2 Mute Swans of the tour, singing Reed Buntings and Arctic Terns. Here we also listened the only Greater Bittern of the tour.

After checking out from our accommodation we started to transfer to Oulu. In the way, we had a stop in the forest to try to get other species of Woodpeckers. It was already late morning, and the temperature (believe or not) was close to 30ºC in the warmest ever day for me in Finland! We got signs of Grey-headed Woodpecker but our efforts were regarded with excellent views on Black Woodpecker superbly perched on the top of a spruce tree. Here we also got nice views on Eurasian Bullfinches (Scandinavian) and Great Spotted Woodpecker.

In we had the best views on Common Snipe of the whole trip.
Despite the unusual 30ºC we enjoyed great views on Black Woodpecker!

We had lunch in the way and arrived into Kuusamo in the early afternoon. The weather was clearly different than in the Baltic coast, with temperatures not exceeding the 20ºC and scattered rains in the area. Our first stop in Kuusamo was a very short trail to enjoy one of the most beautiful buntings in the country. Even from the car park it was possible to listen them singing. We were lucky so it was a question of not wasting time, and only a pair of minute after we were having excellent views on 2 Little Buntings singing really close to us and showing superbly for the whole group! We were not far away from a lake, and a number of Little Gulls were flying above us, most of them quite high up. Not a big deal, because from the Bunting place it only took us five minutes to arrive into a Little Gull colony. Here we enjoy these little gems but also got excellent views on two pairs of Red-necked Grebes, and the first drake Black-throated Divers of the trip. A few minutes from this watching point also produced a flying Short-eared Owl, and lovely views on Baltic Gulls (Larus fuscus fuscus). Other species here included Wigeon, Pintail, Eurasian Teal, Redwing and a wonderful Eurasian Woodcock singing in flight and crossing in the sky with a displaying Common Snipe!

After this great stop we just drove back to the accommodation for some dinner and rest.

Some of the gorgeous views on Little Bunting during the trip. What a cracker!
To see a bunch of Little Gulls (Hydrocolaeus minimus) at a nesting site is always a beautiful experience!
One of the very few Baltic Gulls (Larus fuscus fuscus) of the trip!
Part of the group enjoying Little Bunting.

Day 4. Very early start to check some interesting locations around our accommodation. This morning our goal was to connect with some of the very good birds living in the boreal forest. Only 300 metres away from the accommodation we had a first flock of Rustic Buntings, with three individuals showing nicely on the dart road despite the poor light. A bit of driving soon produced a nice male Western Capercaillie, that was only enjoyed by the second vehicle. Along the next hour we had some drive with little reward in terms on Grouses, and we only got a lovely male Black Grouse showing itself at the top of a spruce and a Willow Grouse that was only seen from the second vehicle. During the drive we also got very nice looks on a pair of Eurasian Woodcocks feeding in a meadow.

After a nice coffee stop we drove to one of the many hills in the area, and only arriving to the spot we had a stop to enjoy a pair of Hazel Grouses that were moving along the road. We walked around as the grouses were very active. A male was chasing a female and both were doing flights all around the place. After some fight, everyone in thegroup had good views on the birds moving on the ground. At the same spot, we also got one Rustic Bunting and a couple of Siberian Jays moving in the canopy. A bit further in the road, we also had our first attempt for Northern Hawk Owl, but the stop “only” produced a couple of Rustic Buntings, Willow Tit, Tree Pipit and even a Three-toed Woodpecker that was only seen by me..

Finally, we arrived to the Livaara, one of the most typical places for boreal species in Finland. The sun was already well high, and unfortunately was a bit warm. We walked up to the top, and it didn’t take long before we got our first Red-flanked Bluetail singing from the top of one of the spruces. A second male (2nd year old birds in both cases) were seen further beyond, but the area was quiet and we only got Tree Pipit and Spotted Flycatcher as other species of interest.

Our short afternoon was free so the group could explore the very nice habitat around our accommodation. Wood Sandpiper, Common Cuckoo, Greenshank and Black-throated Diver were some of the species seen by the group.

This Black Grouse (Lyrurus tetrix) was the best Grouse for the group around Kuusamo in the worst morning in that area for years!
Scandinavian Willow Tit (Poecile montanus) spruce and pine forest in Northern Finland.
Eurasian Woodcock (Scolopax rusticola), a common bird in Northern Finland.
Rustic Buntings (Emberiza rustica) seemed to be everywhere this time, but we never got extra close views on them..
Normally a difficult species to contact with, this year we got really good looks on Red-flanked Bluetail (Tarsiger cyanurus) at our first attempt.
Some of the amazing spruce habitat around Kuusamo.

Day 5. A new day and a new early start. The first stop of the morning was to explore a nice spot for Willow Grouses. In previous trips we have always had very nice looks on them here, but this time we only got flight views as one male was singing around the area. Here we also got two of the very few Common Crossbills of the trip (no records of Parrot Crossbill this spring at all in the whole Northern Finland) and very nice views on Eurasian Treecreeper. When coming back to the vans, we also got 2 Elks (a female and young animal) crossing the road 200 metres away from us. It was a rather foggy morning in the hills so we decided to do some grouse drive, again with very little reward and the only species of interest were some Bohemian Waxwings in flight. Our last stop of the morning was at a well known spot for Siberian Jay. Here we got excellent views on this gorgeous bird as well as nice Scandinavian Willow Tit, Scandinavian Bullfinch and Goldcrest. At least 3 Red-flanked Bluetails were singing around but we never tried to connect with them after the nice views from the day before.

We started our transfer North, and our typical coffee stop was a bit ruined by a plain tire that made us spend one hour and so. After buying a new tire, we kept moving North, enjoying some nice creps as en route lunch. Here, from the lovely cabin by a large lake that serves crep house, we also got the only one Osprey of the trip and 2 Black-throated Divers, surprisingly still in winter plomage.

Eurasian Treecreeper (Certhia familiaris)
Moose (Alces alces) out of the woods.
That morning we had amazing views on Siberian Jays (Perisoreus infaustus)

Arrived to Ivalo, we still had time for some birding in a great boreal forest location. At our very first stop in the forest, we got excellent and long views on Siberian Tits plus the first proper views on Common Redpolls of the trip. A tiny walk around also produced nice views on a pair of Bohemian Waxwings that were feeding in the spruce, and our second contact with a Three-toed Woodpecker feeding in the forest and showing very well for the whole group! Other good birds here included Common Redstart and Pied Flycatcher. A wonderful reward for one hour of birdwatching. Unfortunately, this spot, normally great for Crossbills, was surprisingly low on them..

Back to the vehicles, we had a small drive around and in only 45 minutes we discovered that this area was having more activity of Grouses that down in Kuusamo. It was a pleasant afternoon with only 15ºC, and we were surprised by a nice fock of 8 Black Grouses moving in the forest and 2 amazing female Western Capercaillies, one of them feeding around and a second one lying on the undergrowth, a fantastic find by Alba!

Some of the nice & long views on Siberian Tit (Poecile cinctus), one of the main targets for everyone in the group!
Eurasian Three-toed Woodpecker (Picoides tridactylus) only a few metres away form Siberiant Tit and Bohemian Waxwing.
Bohemian Waxwing (Bombycilla graculus) had good densities in Northern Lapland.
Black Grouse (Lyrurus tetrix) around Ivalo.
It is difficult to imagine a better sight on a female Capercaillie (Tetrao urogallus). A wonderful spot by tour participant Alba.

Day 6. After enjoying a nice breakfast in our accommodation we had a short walk around. Here we enjoy nice views on Pine Grosbeaks, but in the lake beside we also got 3 Smews including 2 drake males and a lovely pair of Velvet Scoters that were nesting close by.

From here we drove North to the Norwegian border with several stops in the nice lakes and the many marshes around. Red-breasted Merganser was common here along with Whooper Swan and Goldeneye. Wood Sandpiper and Common Redpoll were also noted but the first Bluethroat of the trip was probably the most appreciated bird along these stops. Further North, our last stop before the border produced the first Rough-legged Buzzards of the trip (4) and the only one White-throated Dipper of the trip.

Before getting into Norway, we got the most pintoresc lunch of the trip. Hey there, how many of you have tasted Elk stew in the Sami way?

Pine Grosbeak (Pinicola enucleator) is always one of the most sought-after birds of the trip. Male above; female below.
Record shot of Velvet Scoter (Melanitta fusca)

Well, once inside Norway we drove North along the coast. A first proper stop produced the typical gulls in the area along with some summer plomaged Ruffs but also Eurasian Oystercatchers, Dunlins and 1 Little Stint. Escorted all the way by Rough-legged Buzzards, Parasitic Skuas and White-tailed Eagles, but also nice views on our first flocks of Tundra Bean Geese, we did our way North to arrive into a first lovely bay close by Vadso. Here we started scanning the many Common Eiders, and found the firsts Bar-tailed Godwits of the trip along with Common Redshanks and Dunlins. But the best surprise was to find 4 King Eiders, including two bizarre 1st summer males, that gave nice scope views despite the long way.

Nearby, a lovely pond was hosting 87 Red-necked Phalaropes that were feeding and displaying in a lovely afternoon light. There is simply no words to describe the beauty of these tiny waders in full summer plumage spinning in the water or simply chasing each other in the quiet and pristine ambient of that small Arctic pond. And that day we were even luckier! Along with the Phalaropes, the pond was hosting a minimum of 40 Ruffs, with some of the males in full display, battling, jumping and fighting in a scene that gave us excellent memories for the years to come!

A last walk around that pond still produced more species including Eurasian Curlew and Turnstones, and we had a short scan on the sea. Here, as the afternoon was passing by, thousands of Kittiwakes were moving back to their colonies after some hours of fish, closely followed by Parasitic Skuas and Great Black-backed Gulls. A detailed scan in the water produced another pair of Red-throated Divers feeding in the sea. In our way to the vans, we still had time to enjoy the first Red-throated Pipit of the trip.

Back to the cars we went for a comfort stop, but behind the petrol station is always a typical place for waders to be feeding in the afternoon, so I was directly to check and I was very pleased and surprised to find a Terek’s Sandpiper feeding along with a flock of Dunlins!!! This is quite a rarity for Norway and a great self found species for the group!

Tundra Bean Geese (Anser serrirostris) and Ruff lekking in our way to Vadso.
We had some quality time in a wonderful Phalarope pond. Female above; male below.
Drake Common Eider (Somateria mollissima). Without doubt one of the most attractive ducks in our region!
Ruffs (Calidris pugnax) lekking.
We were lucky to enjoy some nice Ruff action!
A pair of Eurasian Oystercatchers surrounded by Red-necked Phalaropes.
Here we enjoyed the first of many Red-throated Pipits (Anthus cervinus).
We were lucky to find this Terek’s Sandpiper (Xenus cinereus) feeding along with Dunlins (Calidris alpina)!
White-tailed Eagle (Hieraaetus albicilla) posing for us in lovely light. Amazing to see this icon of the Arctic like this!

Day 7. After enjoying a very nice breakfast based on the fish specialties of the Arctic Ocean, we walked the short distance to Vardo harbour. There, several Kittiwakes were moving in and out from the many colonies in buildings and along the docks. Along with them, there were also Arctic & Common Terns. The boat to Hornoya is only a 10 minutes ride but it was enough to give us a nice surprise, as 4 Northern Fulmars flew over the boat. These are the wonderful Arctic variety of the species, famous because of its bluish coloration. Unfortunately not everybody caught them in flight!

One of the most impressive views of Hornoya happens even before your arrive to the island. The last hundreds metres of sea before arriving are literally carpeted with hundreds, thousands of Guillemots and Razorbills. It is simply amazing to see that sea of Guillemots, something that I have never seen in any other seabird colony, not at least in the Northern Atlantic.

Hornoya hosts about 50,000 pairs of Guillemots, about a 15% of them are of the delicate “Bridled” variety. Along with them, 30,000 pairs of Kittiwakes, thousands of Razorbills, about 3,000 Atlantic Puffins, hundreds of Shags and smaller numbers of Northern Fulmars that combines with scattered colonies of Brünnich’s Guillemots (>300 pairs).

After a small walk in the island, we all enjoyed wonderful views not only in all the sea birds, but also on other wonderful side dishes including Red-throated & Scandinavian Rock Pipits, Barnacle Geese, a lovely although distant couple of Temminck’s Stints and Bluethroat. Our path up to the lighthouse also produced a very nice Twite, a very nice pick up by Roser and Joan.

Lovely views on Pectoral Sandpipers (Calidris matitima) in the fog next to our accommodation.
Arctic Tern (Sterna paradisaea)
Razorbill (Alca torda) close-up. Classiest auk in the continent!
A friendly Bridled Guillemot in the colony.
Guillemot (Uria aalge) waking up in the fog
Atlantic Puffin (Fratercula arctica) close up.
Brünnich’s Guillemot (Uria lomvia) -right- and Common Guillemot -left.
Atlantic Puffin (Fratercula arctica) coming back to their nest after some fishing.
A very handsome Black-legged Kittiwake (Rissa tridactyla).
Rock Pipits (Anthus petrosus litoralis) were nesting in the lowest part of the island.

Back to the continent we headed North through a dense fog. Where the fog allowed, we did some stops along the bays, enjoying several flocks of Goosanders, Long-tailed Ducks and Black Scoters along with some Divers and Velvet Scoters. The fog was still intense, and wherever we had an open window, we had a stop to enjoy some birds, normally producing ruff views on Arctic Redpolls, Bluethroats and Redwings. In our way back to our accommodation we had a stop to check some Common Eiders and we were surprised to find a very nice White-billed Diver out in the sea. After leaving the cars out of the lane, we got to the beach to have closer views and everyone in the group got excellent views on this very sought-after species!

Very happy after this great spot, we drove back to the accommodation. Still, right before arriving we had a last stop. A White-billed Diver had been seen in inner bay in Vardo so we stop to check. The bird was still there, but it was sleeping and the fog was very thick so it was difficult to see anything.. Along with the Diver, we also had 3 Black Guillemots and some Purple Sandpipers feeding in the shore.

We found this Willow Grouse (Lagopus lagopus) just finishing a sand bath. Please note the sand hollow left hand of the Grouse.
Black Scoter (Melanitta nigra) “pod” in a bay.
The first Yellow-billed Diver (Gavia adamsii) of the trip was this distant bird. A wonderful view in the Arctic Ocean with the fog surrounding us.
Very nice looking Reindeers (Rangifer tarandus) next-to-sea.

Day 8. This day we moved back North, to explore the uplands in Varanger. But before hitting to road we had a new stop in the bay inside Vardo. Here, without fog, we had amazing views on a wonderful drake White-billed Diver. The bird was just waking up and we could enjoy the bird only 40 metres away from us. The views on this amazing bird were again complemented with 3 Purple Sandpipers, again at very close range.

Back to the continent, we took advantage of the pristine ambient to enjoy the tundra. There we got excellent views on Lapland Buntings & Bluethroats but also lekking Ruffs, several Parasitic Skuas, White-tailed Eagles, Dunlins and European Golden Plovers. Moving North we were caught by the fog, and when crossing the uplands we were surprised by 2 wonderful and very close Willow Grouses that allowed very close views. En route, we had a flock of 6 Pink-footed Geese, the only sight of this species during the trip.

The delicious views on this White-billed Diver ranked high as bird of trip, exceeding the expectations of all our guests!
WOW!
Probably the most iconic passerine in the tundra, the very attractive Lapland Bunting (Calcarius lapponicus)
Bluethroat (Luscinia svecica) showing out

Arrived to the uplands, we had a first stop to enjoy our packed lunches. Here, we found a nest of Arctic Redpolls in the bushy willows around a pond. The same pond was hosting a wonderful pair of Long-tailed Duck and Wood Sandpiper and Meadow Pipit were coming to feed in. Far away, some Long-tailed Skuas were flying here and there.

Driving throught the tundra, we had several Willow Grouses and a second pond produced great views on a nesting pair of Red-throated Divers but also on Ruffs, Red-necked Phalaropes, Teals, Pintails, the only 2 Scaups of the tour, Red-throated Pipits, Bar-tailed Godwit (very scarce nesting bird in the area) and several more.

Back to the coast, we visited a proper place for Gyrfalcon, but we had no luck with them this time. Instead, we got good views on White-tailed Eagles, Rough-legged Buzzards and a nesting colony of Great Cormorants. It was already late in the afternoon, a proper moment to go back to the tundra. In the way up we had a couple of stops to enjoy Willow Grouse and the only one Merlin of the tour, a lovely male perched for us in a small rock!

A few minutes later we were already in the proper habitat for the alpine species living in Varanger. It didn’t take long to find the first of a good number of Rock Ptarmigan nicely showing in the rocky landscapes. After long views despite the strong wind, we also located a couple of females feeding around. The very last of the Grouses to show out in the tour lead us also to contact with the first Horned Larks of the trip! This bird is getting scarcer and scarcer in the area, and becoming a treat to find them. A few more miles in the road produced more Temminck’s Stints but also lovely views on Horned Larks, even closer views on Ptarmigans and the cherry on cake; a wonderful pair of Snow Buntings singing and showing out for the group! In a memorable moment, we had Ptarmigan, Horned Lark and Snow Bunting all of them displaying for us at the same time in the same gorge!

From this wonderful scenery we just drove back to our accommodation to enjoy some nice meal and some rest in one of the very few hotels in the area.

Long-tailed Duck (Clangula hyemalis) still migrating North.
Arctic Redpoll (Acanthis hornemanni) around its nest.
Drake Black-throated Diver (Gavia arctica), the most elegant bird in the Arctic?
Black Guillemot (Cepphus grylle) next to their nest box
Once again we got excellent views on Rock Ptarmigan (Lagopus mutus). Here a wonderful male.
Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris) overlooking its territory.
Another stunner! Male Snow Bunting (Plectrophenax nivalis) only a few metres away from our group!

Day 9. Another sunny day in the Arctic tundra, and our group was out of the hotel very early in the morning. The breakfast was quite not as good as the rest of the days, but we had a good lunch to compensate the rather simple breakfast.

Back to the tundra, we had a stop in the way to enjoy close views on Long-tailed Skuas. Some walk was required, but we got excellent views on a pair of this always amazing birds! This year, the number of LT Skuas was reduced if comparing with previous trips. After checking the ponds we headed to the Northern coast, where we had some quality time on a wonderful seawatching point.

Here, we were delighted to see hundreds of “Blue” Fulmars feeding around a trawler. The ambient was grey and cold but the birding was excellent. Flocks and flocks of Goosanders were moving East. Here, migration still goes on for thousands of birds that will keep moving North East, going to nest in Siberia. A large flock of Long-tailed Ducks was feeding in the sea, and Mark found a magnificent drake King Eider feeding along with them. Out in the sea, we had some Divers moving East. they were mainly Red-throated, but we also got nice views on at least one White-billed Diver; the third for the trip! Other interesting species here included Black Guillemots along with Red-breasted Merganser, Common Eider and Atlantic Puffin. But the very best bird from this very advantage place was a wonderful Gyrfalcon that crossed right in front of our group, moving West. A great spot by Aonghus that almost everybody in the group could see even if it was moving really fast!

Before lunch, we made a stop in a pair of bays. There, along with the typical gulls and ducks for the area, we got a nice juvenile Little Gull. Checking flocks of Common Eiders, we counted a minimum of 4 King Eiders, all of them females-type birds. This time, despite the foggy ambient, everybody had excellent views on the birds.

After enjoying some very nice pizzas from a local pub, we just drove South, back into Finland with no remarkable birding stops during the afternoon.

Long-tailed Skuas (Stercorarius longicaudus) were scarce this year.
Red-throated Diver (Gavia stellata) is a common nesting species in Varanger.
During this morning we got some impressive views on White-tailed Eagle (Hieraaetus albicilla).
Male King Eider (Somateria spectabilis) in the Arctic Ocean.
King Eider female & two Common Eiders.
1st summer female King Eider
Female King Eider (center) and 4 Common Eiders.

Day 10. Basically a transfer morning. With the group divided due to the different plane timetables, most of the group started the transfer South including an early stop for a very last go on Northern Hawk Owl. Soon after living the van, we heard a Northern Hawk Owl calling inside the forest, and during the next minutes we got excellent views into a pair of this very iconic species of the boreal forest, including the male coming with a mole to feed the female!

Seen the bird, we contacted with the tour participants that stayed longer at the accommodation (they had a flight later in the day) and they also could come to the place and see the bird!

Along with the Owl, a pair of Siberian Tits was moving also in the area. We even got lucky enough to contact with the Wilson’s Snipe that had been courtship in the boj nearby. Not great views anyway but the bird past by twice while singing. Besides, the very last stop of the trip only produced Eurasian Whimbrel.

Back to the van, we had a final transfer including a fight for a morning coffee. It was Sunday morning, and a early morning coffee in Lapland proved to be more difficult to find that most of the boreal specialties! Finally, we got our very well deserved coffee and we arrived to the airport with nice views on a Short-eared Owl as a bonus!

And to here arrives the chronicle of our 7th tour in Northern Finland and Finnmark. Really looking forward to our 2025 issue. Pretty sure that it will be as good as always is!

Finally, we got well deserved views on this amazing owl!
Northern Hawk Owl ready to hawk!
Short-eared Owl (Asio flammeus) was the very last speciality to show up in the trip.

List of birds seen during the tour

  1. Whooper Swan (Cygnus cygnus)
  2. Mute Swan (Cygnus olor)
  3. Common Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna)
  4. Greylag Goose (Anser anser)
  5. Tundra Bean Goose (Anser serrirostris)
  6. Pink-footed Goose (Anser brachyrhynchus)
  7. Barnacle Goose (Branta leucopsis)
  8. Eurasian Wigeon (Marecca penelope)
  9. Gadwall (Marecca strepera)
  10. Eurasial Teal (Anas crecca)
  11. Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)
  12. Northern Pintail (Anas acuta)
  13. Northern Shoveler (Spatula clypeata)
  14. Garganey (Spatula querquedula)
  15. Tufted Duck (Aythya fuligula)
  16. Scaup (Aythya marila)
  17. Common Eider (Somateria mollissima)
  18. King Eider (Somateria spectabilis)
  19. Long-tailed Duck (Clangula hyemalis)
  20. Common Scoter (Melanitta nigra)
  21. Velvet Scoter (Melanitta fusca)
  22. Goldeneye (Bucephala clangula)
  23. Smew (Mergellus albellus)
  24. Goosander (Mergus merganser)
  25. Red-breasted Merganser (Mergus serratus)
  26. Common Pheasant (Phaisanus colchinus)
  27. Hazel Grouse (Bonasa bonasia)
  28. Willow Grouse (Lagopus lagopus)
  29. Rock Ptarmigan (Lagopus mutus)
  30. Black Grouse (Lyrurus tetrix)
  31. Western Capercaillie (Tetrao urogallus)
  32. Common Swift (Apus apus)
  33. Common Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus)
  34. Feral Pigeon (Columba livia)
  35. Common Woodpigeon (Columba palumbus)
  36. Common Crane (Grus grus)
  37. Great Crested Grebe (Podiceps cristatus)
  38. Red-necked Grebe (Podiceps grisegena)
  39. Slavonian Grebe (Podiceps auritus)
  40. Corncrake (Crex crex) ———————————– heard only
  41. Eurasian Oystercatcher (Haematopus ostralegus)
  42. Common Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula)
  43. Little Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius)
  44. European Golden Plover (Pluvialis apricaria)
  45. Northern Lapwing (Vanellus vanellus)
  46. Temminck’s Stint (Calidris temminckii)
  47. Dunlin (Calidris alpina)
  48. Little Stint (Calidris minuta)
  49. Purple Sandpiper (Calidris maritima)
  50. Ruff (Calidris pugnax)
  51. Eurasian Woodcock (Scolopax rusticola)
  52. Common Snipe (Gallinago gallinago)
  53. Wilson’s Snipe (Gallinago delicata) —————— heard only
  54. Bar-tailed Godwit (Limosa lapponica)
  55. Black-tailed Godwit (Limosa limosa)
  56. Eurasian Curlew (Numenius arquata)
  57. Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)
  58. Spotted Redshank (Tringa erythropus)
  59. Common Redshank (Tringa totanus)
  60. Greenshank (Tringa nebularia)
  61. Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola)
  62. Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus)
  63. Terek’s Sandpiper (Xenus cinereus)
  64. Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos)
  65. Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres)
  66. Red-necked Phalarope (Phalaropus lobatus)
  67. Little Gull (Hydrocoloeus minutus)
  68. Black-headed Gull (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
  69. Common Gull (Larus canus)
  70. Great Black-backed Gull (Larus marinus)
  71. Herring Gull (Larus argentatus)
  72. Kittiwake (Rissa trydactyla)
  73. Common Tern (Sterna hirundo)
  74. Arctic Tern (Sterna paradisaea)
  75. Arctic Skua (Stercorarius parasiticus)
  76. Long-tailed Skua (Stercorarius longicaudus)
  77. Guillemot (Uria aalge)
  78. Brünnich’s Guillemot (Uria lomvia)
  79. Razorbill (Alca torda)
  80. Black Guillemot (Cepphus grylie)
  81. Atlantic Puffin (Fratercula arctica)
  82. Red-throated Diver (Gavia stellata)
  83. Black-throated Diver (Gavia arctica)
  84. White-billed Diver (Gavia adamsii)
  85. Northern Fulmar (Fulmarus glaciallis)
  86. Great Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo)
  87. Shag (Gulosus aristotelis)
  88. Greater Bittern (Botaurus stellaris) ————- heard only
  89. Osprey (Pandion haliaetos)
  90. Western Marsh Harrier (Circus aeruginosus)
  91. Rough-legged Buzzard (Buteo lagopus)
  92. European Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivorus)
  93. White-tailed Eagle (Haliaetus albicilla)
  94. Short-eared Owl (Asio flammeus)
  95. Tengmalm’s Owl (Aegolius funereus)
  96. Ural Owl (Strix uralensis)
  97. Northern Hawk Owl (Surnia ulula)
  98. Eurasian Pygmy Owl (Glaucidium passerinum)
  99. Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major)
  100. Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (Dryobates minor)
  101. Three-toed Woodpecker (Picoides tridactylus)
  102. Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius)
  103. Common Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus)
  104. Merlin (Falco columbarius)
  105. Gyrfalcon (Falco rusticolus)
  106. Red-backed Shrike (Lanius excubitor)
  107. Siberian Jay (Perisoreus infaustus)
  108. Eurasian Magpie (Pica pica)
  109. Western Jackdaw (Coloeus monedula)
  110. Hooded Crow (Corvus cornix)
  111. Common Raven (Corvus corax)
  112. Bohemian Waxbill (Bombycilla garrulus)
  113. Willow Tit (Poecile montanus)
  114. Siberian Tit (Poecile cinctus)
  115. Eurasian Blue Tit (Cyanistes caeruleus)
  116. Great Tit (Parus major)
  117. Eurasian Skylark (Alauda arvensis)
  118. Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris)
  119. Sand Martin (Riparia riparia)
  120. Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica)
  121. Western House Martin (Delichon urbicum)
  122. Common Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus collybita)
  123. Willow Warbler (Phylloscopus trochilus)
  124. Wood Warbler (Phylloscopus sibilatrix)
  125. Sedge Warbler (Acrocephalus schoenobaenus)
  126. Garden Warbler (Sylvia borin)
  127. Common Whitethroat (Curruca communis)
  128. Lesser Whitethroat (Curruca curruca)
  129. Goldcrest (Regulus regulus)
  130. Eurasian Wren (Troglodytes troglodytes)
  131. Eurasian Treecreeper (Certhia familiaris)
  132. Common Starling (Sturnus vulgaris)
  133. Fieldfare (Turdus pilaris)
  134. Song Thrush (Turdus philomelos)
  135. Eurasian Redwing (Turdus iliacus)
  136. Mistle Thrush (Turdus viscivorus)
  137. Eurasian Blackbird (Turdus merula)
  138. Eurasian Robin (Erithacus rubecula) —————- heard only
  139. Bluethroat (Luscinia svecica)
  140. Red-flanked Bluetail (Tarsiger cyanurus)
  141. Common Redstart (Phoenicurus phoenicurus)
  142. Whinchat (Saxicola rubetra)
  143. Northern Wheatear (Oenanthe oenanthe)
  144. Spotted Flycatcher (Muscicapa striata)
  145. Pied Flycatcher (Ficedula hypoleuca)
  146. Black-bellied Dipper (Cinclus cinclus)
  147. House Sparrow (Passer domesticus)
  148. Eurasian Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus)
  149. Dunnock (Prunella modularis)
  150. Meadow Pipit (Anthus pratensis)
  151. Tree Pipit (Anthus trivialis)
  152. Red-throated Pipit (Anthus cervinus)
  153. Rock Pipit (Anthus petrosus)
  154. White Wagtail (Motacilla alba)
  155. Yellow Wagtail (Motacilla flava)
  156. Common Chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs)
  157. Brambling (Fringilla montifringilla)
  158. Eurasian Greenfinch (Chloris chloris)
  159. Eurasian Siskin (Spinus spinus)
  160. Linnet (Carduelis cannabina)
  161. Common Redpoll (Carduelis flammea)
  162. Arctic Redpoll (Carduelis hornemanni)
  163. Twite (Carduelis flavirostris)
  164. Common Crossbill (Loxia curvirostra)
  165. Common Rosefinch (Carpodacus erythrinus)
  166. Eurasian Bullfinch (Pyrrhula pyrrhula)
  167. Pine Grosbeak (Pinicola enucleator)
  168. Lapland Bunting (Calcarius lapponicus)
  169. Snow Bunting (Plectrophenax nivalis)
  170. Yellowhammer (Emberiza citrinella)
  171. Ortolan Bunting (Emberiza hortulana)
  172. Reed Bunting (Emberiza schoeniclus)
  173. Rustic Bunting (Emberiza rustica)
  174. Little Bunting (Emberiza pusilla)

List of mammals seen during the tour

  1. European Hare (Leppus leppus)
  2. Mountain Hare (Leppus timidus)
  3. Red Squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris)
  4. Stout (Mustela arminea)
  5. Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes)
  6. Grey Seal (Halichoerus grypus)
  7. Moose (Alces alces)
  8. Reindeer (Rangifer tarandus)*
  9. Fin Whale (Balaenoptera phisalus)
  10. Northern Minke Whale (Balaenoptera acurostrata)

*Feral

OrnitoRepte Monegros 2024

  • Dates: 27 i 28 d’abril del 2024
  • Número de participants: 16
  • Número d’espècies observades: 93
  • Tour líders: Carles Oliver i Ramiro Aibar

Dia 1. Un cop reunits tots els participants als afores de Barcelona, ens vam encabir als dos minibusos per tal de dirigir-nos cap a Los Monegros. Era un dia força núvol i la pluja, tant necessària a tots els ecosistemes del país, va complir la seva amenaça i va fer acte de presència.

La primera parada la vam fer no gaire lluny de Candasnos, en un ambient plujós i prou fosc. Nombrosos Alaúdids cantaven a la primera zona amb vegetació autènticament estèpica que vam visitar. Un espai d’amb prou feines 20 hectàrees d’on sortien una gran quantitat de terreroles comunes i rogenques cantant en vol. Però un cant sobresortia de la resta. I és que una alosa becuda cantava ben a prop de la pista i només ens van caldre deu segons per trobar-la cantant a ple pulmó a dalt de tot d’un petit timó. L’observació, d’una qualitat que rajava la intimitat, va ser tota una sorpresa. Ni jo mateix esperava que l’ocell ens estigués esperant palplantat a tocar dels vehicles i cantant totalment al descobert!

Malauradament era un dia prou fosc i no tothom va poder contactar amb l’ocell abans que no abandonés la seva talaia, tot començant les seves típiques curses per la zona d’estepa. Vam esperar una bona estona, amb l’ocell encara cantant no gaire més enllà. Uns quants encara el vam albirar, ja fora dels vehicles, aquí i allà mentre s’allunyava entre els matolls, fins que al final el vam perdre de vista i el seu cant ja arribava força desdibuixat.

Vam aprofitar per gaudir de les primeres de moltes observacions de terrerola rogenca, terrerola comuna i calàndria del cap de setmana. L’ambient fresc alimentava una bona activitat d’Alaúdids però es va demostrar desastrós per a un bon número d’altres passeriformes. Vam cobrir la petita distància que ens separava d’un punt a on un estol de xurres s’havia estat alimentant al llarg de la primavera. En arribar, però, es va posar a ploure fort i vam decidir de continuar una mica més endavant.

Vam aturar els vehicles en uns grans camps llaurats per tal d’escanejar al voltant. Aquí vam observar terreroles comunes i torlits. La pluja semblava dornar-nos una treva i les gangues, que sempre es mouen en aquesta zona, no van trigar a aparèixer. Hi havia un grup de tres que es movia al fons d’un dels camps. Amb els telescopis, vam gaudir d’una molt bona observació tot i la poca llum. Xoriguers i gralles niaven en una caseta situada just al centre del camp. I al costat oposat del lloc on érem un botxí ibèric i una parella de còlits rossos es movien per un vessant arbustiu.

Tot d’una, els reclams de les gangues es van arribar, força més a prop del que esperàvem, i és que un mascle tot just ens passava per sobre en aquell precís moment, i a més fent un vol d’exhibició fantàstic: obrint les ales i mantenint-les quietes per semblar més gran mentre planava molt a poc a poc, tot cobrint tot el camp mentre feia uns reclams suaus. Realment una observació d’allò més especial. Això sí, sota una pluja que ara semblava que tornava a agafar força.

En la distància vam veure un parell d’àguiles daurades que, tot i el temps inestable, es movien per començar a caçar.

Aprofitant un altra parada de la pluja, vam visitar un raconet que les xurres estaven fent servir a la primavera. Un trobat que cantava a la zona va fer les delícies del grup mentre esperàvem les protagonistes. Afortunadament no es van fer esperar gaire i uns minuts més tard un estol de 6 xurres va aterrar al camp, però ho va fer a la zona amb la vegetació més alta, fent molt difícil la seva observació.

La pluja no va trigar gaire a tornar a aparèixer i ens vam haver de moure més a l’Oest. Després d’un dinar ràpid vam tombar pels camps inmensos de la zona central de Monegros. Ara la pluja havia desaparescut, però ara era el vent el que ens acompanyava. Recorrent la zona vam observar arpella cendrosa (mascle de 2n any), xoriguers petits i força calàndries i tombant vam anar a petar amb un altra estol de xurres, 8 en aquesta ocasió. Vam volar només per aturar-se un parell de camps més enllà i el grup es va posar en moviment amb la intenció d’apropar-se el més ràpidament possible als Pteròclids amb la mala sort, però, de trobar una esmerla als pocs metres. No la podíem passar per alt així que vam parar telescopi i a gaudir. Des de la mateixa posició, un mussol comú ens observava, encara més enllà. Tot amb tot encara vam arribar a temps de retrobar les xurres, que s’alimentaven tranquilament en un camp llaurat. Al llarg dels propers minuts vam fruir d’una molt bona observació mentre el grup s’anava apropant ben a poc a poc.

Pràcticament el primer ocell de l’OrnitoRepte Monegros va ser aquesta alosa becuda. Imatge del tour líder Carles Oliver
Trobat (Anthus campestris). Imatge de Lluís Vilamajor.
Arpella cendrosa (CIrcus pygargus), mascle de 2n any, a prop de Bujaraloz. Imatge del tour líder Carles Oliver.
Xurres (Pterocles orientalis) al vol. Imatge de Lluís Vilamajor.
Terrerola comuna (Calandrella brachydactyla) a la vesprada. Imatge del tour líder Carles Oliver.
Una bonica calàndria (Melanocorypha calandra) amb el sol ja caigut. Imatge del tour líder Carles Oliver.

D’aquí el grup es va dirigir a l’Est, per tal de passar les últimes hores de la tarda en uns territoris d’alosa becuda. Malauradament, aquesta última parada només va produir observacions de terreroles rogenques i comunes en una molt bona llum de tarda.

Dia 2. Comencem el dia amb un temps serè i tranquil. Després d’esmorzar ens vam dirigir a El Planeron i, al poc temps d’arribar, vam sentir cantar un parell d’aloses becudes. Un primer exemplar caminava pel terra a prop de terreroles i calàndries. Un segon mascle cantava a l’altra banda dels vehicles i, després d’una bona estona de cerca, el vam poder trobar i observar força a plaer. Una mica més enllà cantava un altre mascle, que vam gaudir durant força estona amb els telescopis.

Estols de xurres i gangues volaven a baixa alçada sobre les estepes. De sortida, ens vam aturar a gaudir d’una colònia de xoriguers petits i de les gralles de bec vermell que niaven a la mateixa casa. Des d’aquí mateix, escoltem una altra alosa becuda i força cogullades fosques i per a la nostra sorpresa, trobem el mascle d’alosa becuda que apareix i desapareix cantant sobre un petit arbust. Es tracta de la sisena alosa becuda del matí, i tothom pot tornar a gaudir d’aquesta espècie al telescopi!

Deixant enrere Belchite, ens vam aturar a explorar una zona d’oliveres. Aquí vam gaudir de bones observacions de tórtora comuna, però també de capsigranys i gratapalles. Una àliga calçada marcava el territori contínuament al voltant de l’arbre escollit per a construir el seu niu.

Un petit passeig per la zona va produir algunes bones observacions de tallarol emmascarat, encara que no tothom al grup els va poder veure bé. Aquí també cantaven rossinyols, pinsans, gafarrons i mallerengues i un parell de mastegatatxes i una àguila marcenca van acabar d’afegir interès a la parada. Al migdia vam fer una parada a una petita llacuna. Aquí vam poder veure teixidor, balquers, boscarla de canyar, xibecs, agrons rojos i un parell de rossinyols en migració a més d’un falcó peregrí que sobrevolava la zona.

De la llacuna vam conduir una poca estona fins a una zona arbustiva. A diferència del dia anterior, el dia era calmat i no plovia i era ideal per ocells petits. En un moment estàvem gaudint de tallarols trencamates i còlits rossos però també d’una arpella cendrosa.

Com a última parada del viatge, vam visitar uns penya-segats propers. Aquí vam acabar d’engrandir la llista de l’OrnitoRepte amb bones observacions de còlit negre, merla blava i bosqueta comuna però també de mallerenga cuallarga, xixella mentre el blauet i l’oriol reclamaven en el bosquet de ribera.

Alosa becuda (Chersophilus duponti) cantant des del seu lloc habitual. El segon matí del tour vam veure fins a 6 exemplars diferents. Imatge del tour líder Carles Oliver.
Gralla de bec vermell (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax). Imatge de Lluís Vilamajor.
Xoriguer petit (Falco naumanii). Imatge de Lluís Vilamajor.
Tórtora eurasiàtica (Streptopelia turtur). Imatge de Lluís Vilamajor.
Falcó peregrí (Falco peregrinus). Imatge de Lluís Vilamajor.
Tallarol trencamates (Curruca conspicillata). Imatge de Lluís Vilamajor.
Arpella cendrosa (Circus pygargus). Imatge de Lluís Vilamajor.

Llistat de les espècies observades al llarg del tour:

  1. Ànec blanc (Tadorna tadorna)
  2. Ànec coll-verd (Anas platythynchos)
  3. Ànec cullerot (Spatula clypeata)
  4. Xibec (Netta rufina)
  5. Esplugabous (Bubulcus ibis)
  6. Bernat pescaire (Ardea cinerea)
  7. Agró roig (Ardea purpurea)
  8. Cigonya blanca (Ciconia ciconia)
  9. Voltor comú (Gyps fulvus)
  10. Aufrany (Neophron percnopterus)
  11. Àguila marcenca (Circaetus gallicus)
  12. Àguila daurada (Aquila chrysaetos)
  13. Àguila calçada (Aquila pennata)
  14. Milà negre (Milvus migrans)
  15. Milà reial (Milvus milvus)
  16. Esparver cendrós (Circus pygargus)
  17. Arpella comuna (Circus aeruginosus)
  18. Aligot comú (Buteo buteo)
  19. Xoriguer comú (Falco tinnunculus)
  20. Xoriguer petit (Falco naumanii)
  21. Esmerla (Falco columbarius)
  22. Falcó peregrí (Falco peregrinus)
  23. Perdiu roja (Alectoris rufa)
  24. Polla d’aigua (Gallinula chloropus)
  25. Fotja comuna (Fulica atra)
  26. Cames llargues (Himantopus himantopus)
  27. Torlit (Burhinus oedicnemus)
  28. Corriol camanegre (Charadrius alexandrinus)
  29. Corriol anellat petit (Charadrius dubius)
  30. Valona (Tringa glareola)
  31. Xivitona (Actitis hypoleucos)
  32. Gavina riallera (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
  33. Gavià argentat (Larus michahellis)
  34. Fumarell carablanc (Chlidonias hybridus)
  35. Colom roquer (Columba livia)
  36. Xixella (Columba oenas)
  37. Tudó (Columba palumbus)
  38. Tórtora turca (Streptopelia decaocto)
  39. Tórtora eurasiàtica (Streptopelia turtur)
  40. Ganga (Pterocles alchata)
  41. Xurra (Pterocles orientalis)
  42. Falciot negre (Apus apus)
  43. Ballester (Apus melba)
  44. Puput (Upupa epops)
  45. Abellerol comú (Merops apiaster)
  46. Terrerola comuna (Calandrella brachydactyla)
  47. Terrerola rogenca (Alaudala rufescens)
  48. Cogullada comuna (Galerida cristata)
  49. Cogullada fosca (Galerida theklae)
  50. Calàndria (Melanocorypha calandra)
  51. Alosa becuda (Chersophilus duponti)
  52. Roquerol (Ptyonoprogne rupestris)
  53. Oreneta comuna (Hirundo rustica)
  54. Oreneta cuablanca (Delichon urbicum)
  55. Trobat (Anthus campestris)
  56. Cuereta blanca (Motacilla alba)
  57. Cuereta groga (Motacilla flava)
  58. Teixidor (Remiz pendulinus)
  59. Mastegatatxes (Ficedula hypoleuca)
  60. Rossinyol comú (Luscinia megarhynchos)
  61. Bitxac rogenc (Saxicola rubetra)
  62. Còlit gris (Oenanthe oenanthe)
  63. Còlit ros (Oenanthe hispanica)
  64. Còlit negre (Oenanthe leucura)
  65. Merla blava (Monticola solitarius)
  66. Merla comuna (Turdus merula)
  67. Tallarol de casquet (Sylvia atricapilla)
  68. Tallarol capnegre (Curruca melanocephala)
  69. Tallareta cuallarga (Curruca undata)
  70. Tallarol trencamates (Curruca conspicillata)
  71. Tallarol enmascarat (Curruca hortensis)
  72. Bosqueta comuna (Hippolais polyglotta)
  73. Balquer (Acrocephalus arundinaceus)
  74. Boscarla de canyar (Acrocephalus scirpaceus)
  75. Rossinyol bord (Cettia cetti)
  76. Mallerenga carbonera (Parus major)
  77. Oriol (Oriolus oriolus) – només sentit
  78. Botxí meridional (Lanius meridionalis)
  79. Capsigrany (Lanius senator)
  80. Garsa comuna (Pica pica)
  81. Gralla comuna (Coloeus monedula)
  82. Cornella negra (Corvus corone)
  83. Corb comú (Corvus corax)
  84. Gralla de bec vermell (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax)
  85. Estornell negre (Sturnus unicolor)
  86. Pardal comú (Passer domesticus)
  87. Pardal xarrec (Passer montanus)
  88. Pinsà comú (Fringilla coelebs)
  89. Gafarró europeu (Serinus serinus)
  90. Verdum (Chloris chloris)
  91. Cadernera (Carduelis carduelis)
  92. Passerell comú (Linaria cannabina)
  93. Cruixidell (Emberiza calandra)

Extremadura & Gredos Birding Tour 2024 Trip Report

  • Dates: From April 9th to 13th, 2024
  • Tour participants: 6
  • Number of species seen: 153
  • Tour leader: Carles Oliver

Overview: Our 5th tour to Extremadura started with extremely low temperatures of only 3ºC in the 2nd morning of the trip. After a long week of massive rains and low temperatures migration was low, and as the temperatures recovered some summer visitors only started to show out in the tour at the end of our week there. Still, we managed to connect with most of them, including Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush and some of the very firsts European Rollers of the season. As always, the most celebrated moments of the tour were our visit to Monfragüe National Park and the good variety of birds in all the plains we visited, including the endangered Little Bustard.

Please mind all rights reserved in all images in this trip report.

Day 1. Meet and greet in an accommodation nearby the Madrid International Airport before starting moving out of the city. This first day we will explore some wetlands South of the city. It is a sunny morning and we cross the light traffic around the city to arrive to the extensive farmlands South of Madrid. Along the road we can see the first of many Spotless Starlings and Black Kites along with a Red Kite and Common Kestrels.

Our first stop is devoted to explore one of the many wetlands in the area known as “La Mancha Húmeda”. It is still sunny, but it is already a bit windy. From a first platform we have close views on some drake White-headed Ducks along with Red-crested Pochard, the commoner Common Pochard, Northern Shoveler and Black-necked Grebes showing a full nesting plomage. A wonderful Purple Heron crossed the lagoon offering great views to the group while a rather distant Savi’s Warbler was singing far away from us, well covered by the rank vegetation. Several Greater Flamingoes are present in the lagoon and an accurate counting on the White-headed Ducks reveals 34+ birds there. Marsh Harriers are really common, and the air is full of their displays and pursuits.

A short walk around reveals Linnet and European Serin but also the first Zitting Cisticola for the group along with Sand Martin and rather distant Eurasian Sparrowhawk and Booted Eagle. From the reeds around us emerges a Western Swamphen just to land a hundred metres further in the reeds. In the way back the our vehicle, we had 50+ Black Kites still migrating North, several White Storks and a male Montagu’s Harrier flying high up in the sky.

From this wetland we just drove some miles inside the farming. It was already midday but the weather was comfortable. Checking some fields we got nice views on a migratory Northern Wheatear, Little Ringed Plovers, Crested Larks, a very distant Spanish Imperial Eagle and a really obliging Eurasian Hoopoe surrounded by the songs of many Calandra Larks and 1 Common Quail.

A bit beyond, the first European Roller of the trip was waiting for us in a wire by the road, and a bit beyond a lovely flock of Lesser Kestrels provided us with excellent views as they were hunting against the wind with the nice adding of a low Cinereous Vulture flying over the group as a wonderful first approach to this magnificent bird.

After a wonderful lunch, we drove West to check a second lagoon. By the time we arrived the weather had changed and a strong wind was blowing in the area. We were unable to see any reed living passerines, and a distant Water Pipit and a Great Reed Warbler singing but only breefly showing were the only addings from that side. Still, we got close views on several White-headed Ducks, 12 Whiskered Terns, an equal number of Black-necked Grebes and a juvenile Lesser Black-backed Gull. Here we also got a good number of Red-crested Pochards, Greylag Geese, 6 Black-winged Stilts, Green & Common Sandpipers and 8 Little Ringed Plovers.

Short after living, the rain arrived, and the transfer to our accommodation had multiple showers with a really strong wind.

White-headed Duck (Oyxura leucocephala) from our visit to La Mancha Húmeda. Image by Peter Sutton.
Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus roseus). Image by Peter Sutton.
Splendid Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea). Image by Peter Sutton.
Zitting Cisticola (Cisticola juncidis). Image by Peter Sutton

Day 2. The morning started without wind but with really a very low temperature, and we were only at 4ºC when we did our morning walk around the accommodation. Due to this very temperature, the bird activity was slim. Still, we managed to get really good views on Woodlarks, Woodchat Shrikes and Short-toed Treecreeper. We started moving to the extensive plains around Trujillo, enjoying the first Spanish (formerly Azure-winged) Magpie of the trip, perching along in the fences along the road and flying across.

From our accommodation we covered the short distance to the plains around Trujillo, where we arrived about 9:30am. And we had a wonderful arrival, in the way of a majestic Great Bustard flying right in front of van, crossing the lane and disappearing in the endless grasslands. Our first stop in the was also memorable; a flock of 9 Great Bustards were moving in the fields, with 1 male in full display (the neck down on the back, the tail up and all the white, short feathers erected with the bird becoming a huge snowball moving up and down in the pastures.

Several Calandra Larks and Corn Buntings were singing in the skies or from the fences, and in the sky we counted several Black & Griffon Vultures, but also Booted Eagles and Lesser Kestrels. A bit of scan produced 2 Montagu’s Harriers patrolling the fields, but our attention was soon required again away from the Harriers, since a flock of Pin-tailed Sandgrouses was calling in the sky. Soon, we found 5 birds fastly moving, and we could follow them, providing a good although distant sight. Later, a second flock of 10 more Pin-tailed Sandgrouses was seen flying around. Again, far away.

Back to the woodlands, with Bee-eaters and Woodchat Shrikes all along the way, we had a shortwalk into proper habitat. Not many small birds but the first views of the trip on Sardinian Warbler. Several Spanish Sparrows were moving around, but the proved more difficult to locate here than in other areas around. In the sky, Booted Eagle and Black Kite were again in the move, but here we also got the first Short-toed Eagle of the trip, a gorgeous Black Stork that appeared quite close to us, and the first Spanish Imperial Eagle of the trip. In this case, probably an incomplete adult still showing some young feathers both in the center of the tail and in the inner primaries.

After a gentle stop to enjoy some sandwiches in a small community in the middle of the plains, we kept going with our exploration. The plains were full of Corn Buntings and Zitting Cisticolas, but also Calandra Larks, Black Vultures and we had a number of stops to enjoy Short-toed Snake Eagle and up to 3 Montagu’s Harriers in different places.

The very last stop of the day was devoted to the famous Arrocampo reservoir. Here we had a short walk along the reedbeds. We soon had both Little Egrets & Great White Egrets in this lovely wetland. Some Common Reed Warblers were singing in the place, and got some views on them as they were chasing each other in the reeds. In our way we had close views on European Stonechats, Zitting Cisticolas, Cetti’s Warblers and Western Cattle Egrets. Around one of the observation towers, a large colony of Purple Herons was established, and we counted 19 of them getting in and out or standing in the top of the reeds. Here, a gorgeous Savi’s Warbler was singing not far away from us, and an accurate scan soon revealed this scarce warbler singing from the top of reeds, allowing long and great scope views to all tour participants. Here we also had Western Swamphen, 3 distant Gull-billed Terns flying over the lagoon and calling Water Rail.

When coming back to our van we still had time to time for lovely views on a male Little Bittern plus good views on both Pallid & Alpine Swifts, and the mild afternoon light allowed us to compare shapes and coloration details. At last, 3 Eurasian Spoonbills flew above us, as a final say! From here, we just drove the short distance to our accommodation to enjoy some rest and dinner.

Woodlark (Lullula arborea) around our accommodation. Image by Peter Sutton
Woodchat Shrike (Lanius senator) around our accommodation. Image by Peter Sutton.
Great Bustard (Otis tarda) doing a pass by our van. Image by tour leader Carles Oliver.
One of the many Black (or Cinereous) Vultures of the day. Image by Peter Sutton.
European Bee-eater, just arrived from Africa! Image by Peter Sutton.
The first Spanish Imperial Eagle was this interesting 4th or 5th year. Image by Peter Sutton.
Savi’s Warbler (Locustella luscinioides). Image by Peter Sutton.
Flying Little Bittern (Ixobrychus minutus) at Arrocampo. Image by tour participant Gill Griffiths.
During the trip we got to the amazing blossom of the very common French Lavender (Lavandula pedunculata).

Day 3. After breakfast, we headed to the wonderful Gredos Mountains, but prior arriving to those escarpments we had a shortstop in a nice dehesa woodland. There we walk through a carpet of wildflowers and surrounded by singing Nightingales and perched Woodchat Shrikes. The area is full of broken poplars and it didn’t take long before we got nice but short views on a Eurasian Wryneck. A couple of Booted Eagles were seen along with Spanish Sparrows, the first views of Azure-winged Magpie for the trip and a pair of Common Rock Sparrows. A distant view on an Iberian Grey Shrike completed a good list before driving up to the mountains.

The morning was sunny and definately warmer than the previous day. By the time we arrived to the mountain pass it was a very pleasant temperature and we fastly got really good looks on Rock Buntings but also Dunnock and a fast moving Firecrest. Eurasian Griffon and Cinereous Vultures were both seen in the sky and our short walk up the hill allow us to connect with the first Black Redstarts of the trip but also with epic views on a wonderful Western Subalpine Warbler, and a Dartford Warbler moving also really close to us. The walk was complemented with nice views on 2 Spanish Ibexes and 1 really distant Blue Rock Thrush flycatching in the very top of the rocky slope. In our way down the slope we also got views in a flying Northern Wheatear and in an impressive female Peregrine Falcon flying really low above the slopes.

From this lovely mountain pass we drove inside the pinewoods, with some Iberian Grey Shrikes here and there in the “piornal” bush land. The pinewoods here host a nice selection of birds, and our next stop allowed us to see some of them. But first, we had some time to go through our picnic lunches while enjoying some mountain sun, or having a shortwalk around.

Once lunched, we invested some time to go through the birds living in the woods. Both Coal & Crested Tits were evident around, as were Common Chaffinch, Serin and Blackcap. Great Spotted Woodpecker and Short-toed Treecreeper were a bit more difficult to see. A pair of Citril Finches flew around us, and it took us a good while before we could put our eyes on them. But after some minutes of search a nice pair went down to the grass and fed for some time not far away from us. Up in the trees, a group of young Crossbills were calling, but it was impossible to locate them for the group..

Back to the mountain pass, we had a shortstop to enjoy a pass by Short-toed Eagle with a hanging snake from its peak, while some in the group had a female Montagu’s Harrier crossing the pass in her way North.

Sawfly Orchid (Ophrys tenthredinifera) during one of our strolls.
Subalpine Warbler. Image by Peter Sutton.
Citril Finches made us work hard this time. Image by Peter Sutton.
Eurasian Crag Martin. Image by Peter Sutton.
Rock Buntings provided good looks at Gredos. Image by Peter Sutton.
Short-toed Snake Eagle. Image by Peter Sutton.
Spanish Festoon (Zerynthia rumina). Image by tour participant Rhodie Blythe.

To end the day, we had a couple of stops in the wonderful Tietar Valley, immediately South of Gredos Mountains. At the first stop we got nice views on Iberian Grey & Woodchat Shrikes. Some Black Vultures were flying in the distance but soon we were distracted by a wonderful Black-winged Kite that went up to the skies to push out a Black Kite. It looks like this bird was holding a territory in the area, and during the next minutes we enjoyed wonderful views on the bird as it was flying above, including some display! The Kite finally got down the skies to stop in the top of tree. During the next minutes it remained there, providing great scope views, but slowly moving into the branches, and we realised that its nest must be in that same tree.

We didn’t want to disturb the bird, so we decided to go to explore a nice stream close by. The plan was to come back again to the place of the Black-winged Kite later, hoping for closer views. The stream, right at the end of a small reservoir had become a slow moving river thanks to the generous rains of the last days. Here, we enjoyed soon lovely views on a number of Common Nightingales singing in lovely afternoon light, and the walk was complemented with nice views on a dark form Booted Eagle feeding on a prey up in the trees. Common Kingfisher, Cetti’s Warbler and Sardinian Warblers were also noted here.

90 minutes later the Black-winged Kite place was still on the same tree and after some extra views we decided to go back to our accommodation to enjoy some fun while having dinner.

Black-winged Kite (Elanus caeruleus) displaying on its territory. Image by Peter Sutton.
Iberian Grey Shrike. Image by Peter Sutton.

Day 4. This morning we went to explore the endless ondulate landscape of wonderful grasslands called La Serena. After having breakfast we transfer South with some flocks Black-winged Stilt flocks flying beside the highway in the paddyfields North of Merida. This looked like a very promising spot we had to time for it at the end.

After some delay (thanks to Google maps), we arrived to the plains, and only 2 minutes after arriving we were having a nice flock of Pin-tailed Sandgrouses on the ground, only 50 metres away from the van. These were the closest Sandgrouses I ever had in Extremadura, and all enjoyed good views on the birds. They were so quiet that I was tempted to set up the scope, but the flew away..

From here we drove in the plains, with several Lesser Kestrels all the way down and a number of Calandra Larks also singing here and there. Northern Wheatears could be also seen in the fences and wires; a good sign that the migration was restarting after a very cold week! Soon after, a wonderful Cinereous Vulture provided great views on the ground along with Griffons. Some of the Griffons with their necks and heads still dirty after scavenger a carrion.

The next stop was made in a typical place for Little Bustard. This bird was extremely common all around the grasslands in Extremadura, but now their numbers have decreased dramatically and you can count yourself lucky if you see any of them during the spring. And we got one male.

It was singing really far away. A Montagu’s Harrier distracted us while scanning in the search of the male Little Bustard. It took us some time but finally Ann got the bird singing half a mile away from us, in a lovely flowered hill. We all got nice scope views before the bird flew to the right, beyond a tiny elevation. We still wait a good quarter, and the bird only appeared briefly in the distance before walking down the hill, losing his shape in the ocean of flowers..

We kept exploring this wonderful plains. Our second stop, near to a colony of Lesser Kestrels, produced several of them but also 2 Red-billed Choughs, showy Little Owls, and a calling Great Spotted Cuckoo that we could not find. Some miles later we had a final morning stop. Here, surrounded by Calandra Larks, we got nice views on two Montagu’s Harrier but also Booted Eagle, and 1 very distant Golden Eagle that was sitting on a small rocky outcrop.

From here, we drove up to one of the rocky spines crossing La Serena. We had arranged a nice meal in a wonderful restaurant nearby, and we only got half an hour to explore the castle and around. It was enough.

We didn’t have to walk for long before Sean found a wonderful male Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush at the base of the escarpment. The bird flew off fast, but the views were excellent, but short! Alpine Swifts were flying low and 1 Egyptian Vulture was crossing the sky along with them, only a fraction of time after we found a nice Black Wheatear male at the top of the cliffs. This was a nice and close view, but we were distracted again by a shape in the sky: a Golden Eagle! Back to the rocks, a pair of Black Redstarts were a nice entertainment while waiting for the Black Wheatear to reappear. Instead, we got scope views on a Blue Rock Thrush singing from a distant tip of the cliffs. At last, we got long views on the Black Wheatear, that was singing at times, before going down to enjoy a fabulous lunch!

After lunch, we drove to Merida to try some urban birding. Firstly we walk some parks along the Tagus. Here we had good views on Common Redstart and Pied Flycatcher, and also intimate views on a wonderful female Lesser Spotted Woodpecker that was feeding only a few meters away from us! Glossy Ibises and Cattle Egrets were all the time flying above us from their nesting colonies at the river, and both Little Egret and Black-crowned Night Herons were also noted. Once on the Roman bridge crossing the Tagus, we got great views on Penduline Tit but also a male Little Bittern, 2 Western Swamphens and 2 Common Sandpipers while Pallid & Alpine Swifts were passing around us. Back to our vehicle, 3 nice Spoonbills appeared in the sky to end the stroll. Even if the original plan was to explore some wetlands, this option was not bad at all!

From here, we just drove back to our accommodation.

Cinereous (rigth) & 2 Griffon Vultures resting at La Serena plains. Image by Peter Sutton.
Montagu’s Harrier (Circus pygargus). Image by Peter Sutton.
Black Wheatear right before lunch. Image by Peter Sutton.
In our short walk in Merida we got great views on Lesser Spotted Woodpecker. Image by Peter Sutton.
Pernduline Tit. Image by Peter Sutton.

Day 5. Monfragües % Llanos de Cáceres.Early morning start to go and explore some of the best known birding sites in Extremadura. Monfragüe is an extensive National Park protecting some really well preserved habitats including scrublands, oak forests and small gorges. Being Extremadura mostly plain or ondulate, the Griffon Vulture population and the slim Egyptian Vulture population living in the area concentrates in the small rocky outcrops within the park and in other selected places.

But before going into Monfragüe we had some time to enjoy a small spot of Arrocampo and the extensive debesas around it. In the wetlands we had short views on a Western Swamphen but also migratory Sedge Warbler, Whinchat and some other goodies including a Savi’s Warbler singing close (but never seen), Marsh Harriers and lovely Bee-eaters flying around. From here we transferred to park, with several Iberian Magpies, Hoopoes, Woodchat Shrikes and Woodlarks along the way, but also Common Cuckoo, 2 Rock Sparrows and the only 2 Cirl Buntings of the whole tour!

At the first stop inside the National Park we enjoyed lovely views on Griffons and Black Vultures but also other interesting species including 2 Egyptian Vultures, Subalpine Warbler, scopes views on both Blue Rock Thrush & Rock Bunting and 2 Hawfinches passing over. Still, the very best bird was a wonderful Spanish Imperial Eagle soaring above our heads for long. The full adults of this species always surprise me as they look to have a thin, Harrier-like tail. Proportionally, they always look to me more delicate than other species of eagles, and even far more delicate than young Spanish Imperial Eagles.

From here, we drove through the nice slopes with a couple of productive stops. The first, to pick up a singing Western Orphean Warbler than provided excellent views to the group, and the second to have brief views on one of the just arrived Western Black-eared Wheatears and Subalpine Warbler.

A comfort stop allowed Ann to spot a wonderful Giant Peacock Moth (Saturnia pyri) in a window! From here we drove to the famous “Salto del gitano”, where we spent some time monitoring the skies. Many things were to see in here, including 2 nesting pairs of Black Storks that soared around us, providing great looks to everyone. Both Crag Martins and Red-rumped Swallows were also flying around us. One Spanish Eagle & Egyptian Vultures were also seen along with the common Griffons, and a Peregrine Falcon put itself out of the cliffs for our enjoyment. Blue Rock Thrush & Rock Buntings were singing for long in wonderful lights, the first providing really good photo chances!

Monfragües and the habitat around was full of Booted Eagle. Image by Peter Sutton.
One of the many Black Storks moving around. Image by Peter Sutton.
Western Orphean Warbler in Monfragüe. Image by Peter Sutton.
One of the full adults Spanish Imperial Eagles that we saw in Monfragüe. Image by Peter Sutton.
Blue Rock Thrush at El Salto del Gitano. Image by Peter Sutton.
European Serin by Peter Sutton.
Red-rumped Swallow flying around a bridge. Image by Peter Sutton.
Giant Peacock Moth, a great pick up! Image by tour leader Carles Oliver
Tongue-orchid (Serapias lingua) was blossoming around our accommodation.

From Monfragüe we drove South in the way to Càceres, with small flocks of Bee-eaters and Spanish Sparrows all along the way. North of Caceres there are also large extensions of plains. Here we got excellent views on a number of Greater Short-toed Larks but also Thekla’s & Calandra Larks. A minimum of 6 Great Bustards were seen in different stops, and the group celebrated the 3 Rollers in the area that, even if distant, they offered great views. Soaring in the sky, we had a number of White Storks but also small flocks of Black-headed Gulls, Black Vultures, 2 Booted Eagles and a distant Spanish Imperial Eagle. To end the day, we had a stop at Trujillo itself, where we had great views on the colony of Lesser Kestrels at the outskirts of the town.

Thekla’s Lark (Galerida theklae). Image by Peter Sutton
Greater Short-toed Lark (Calandrella brachydactyla). Image by Peter Sutton.
Lesser Kestrel in one of the colonies around Trujillo.

Day 6. Very last morning of the trip before transferring to Madrid. It is another sunny, bright day with no clouds, neither wind. Our first goal is to check the area where we found a Black-winged Kite a couple of days ago and try to get better views. But we are stopped in the way when a Great Spotted Cuckoo passes right in front of or van. We all jumped out and looked for the bird. It didn’t take long before we contact with the Great Spotted Cuckoo. The area is full of Azure-winged Magpies, and there are actually not one but two Great Spotted Cuckoos. We enjoyed 10 minutes of sighting on the birds, that are actually trying to parasite the Magpies. Several persecutions are seen, with the Magpies trying all the time to disturb the Cuckoos. Here we also see a pair of Common Cuckoo, and all the action goes on in a tiny patch of pines (here the vegetation is dominated by Oaks). A small flock of Bee-eaters is also present and a distant Eurasian Golden Oriole is heard calling in the distance. The views on the Cuckoos are long while it is perched in the pines, and we are all surprised to see the birds mating while the Magpies try to pull them out.

Here we also tried to find the Oriole (first of the year!), but instead we got a flying Lesser Spotted Woodpecker and a singing Willow Warbler.

Once arrived to the Black-winged Kite place, we got hunting but also resting in different tree along the valley, but only when we were leaving is when we got close views on the bird as it was closed to the road. From here we moved South ready to explore our last plains before driving back to Madrid. In the way, another stop was made to see an European Turtle Dove sitting in the wires with both Booted Eagle and Cinereous Vulture circling in the sky at close range.

The morning had gone fast, and we only had one hour the explore near Talavera before going for lunch. But in the plains, one hour is plenty of time when being in the proper patch of habitat!

Once in the plains, we got distant views on Griffons Vultures and some Kites. Moving around the area, it didn’t take long before we got close views on Great Bustards. As always, here you get closer views than in Extremadura. We got 8 individuals that were resting in the fields when we arrived. At the same a time, a very close Cinereous Vulture came to say hi to the group, providing excellent views to all of us. It was not alone, since we also got wonderful views on a young Spanish Imperial Eagle right before a distant Collared Pratincole marked the end of the trip.

Happy with this very successful morning, we just went to enjoy a nice lunch before transferring back to Madrid.

Iberian Magpies looked like less common than in previous years. Image by tour leader Carles Oliver
Flying Great Spotted Cuckoo. Image by tour leader Carles Oliver.
Black-winged Kite scaping the photo from beside the van… Image by tour leader Carles Oliver.
Best views on Black Vulture came from the impressive landscapes around Talavera. Habitats sadly overlooked. Image by Peter Sutton.
Best views on Spanish Imperial Eagle were made in drylands around Talavera. Image by Carles Oliver
Great Spotted Cuckoo by Peter Sutton.
Great Bustard in the midday sunshine. Image by Peter Sutton.

List of birds seen during the trip

  1. Red-legged Partridge (Alectoris rufa)
  2. Common Quail (Coturnix coturnix) – heard only
  3. Egyptian Goose (Alopochen aegyptiacus)
  4. Greylag Goose (Anser anser)
  5. Common Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna)
  6. Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)
  7. Gadwall (Mareca strepera)
  8. Northern Shoveler (Spatula clypeata)
  9. Common Pochard (Aythya ferina)
  10. Red-crested Pochard (Netta ferina)
  11. White-headed Duck (Oxyura leucocephala)
  12. Great Bustard (Otis tarda)
  13. Little Bustard (Tetrax tetrax)
  14. Common Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus)
  15. Great Spotted Cuckoo (Clamator glandarius)
  16. Pin-tailed Sandgrouse (Pterocles alchata)
  17. Feral Pigeon (Columba livia domestica)
  18. Common Woodpigeon (Columba palumbus)
  19. Eurasian Collared Dove (Streptopelia decaocto)
  20. European Turtle Dove (Streptopelia turtur)
  21. Eurasian Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus)
  22. Eurasian Coot (Fulica atra)
  23. Water Rail (Rallus aquaticus) – heard only
  24. Western Swamphen (Porphyrio porphyrio)
  25. Great Crested Grebe (Podiceps cristatus)
  26. Black-necked Grebe (Podiceps nigricollis)
  27. Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
  28. Collared Pratincole (Glareola pratincola)
  29. Black-necked Stilt (Himantopus himantopus)
  30. Little Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius)
  31. Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus)
  32. Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos)
  33. Yellow-legged Gull (Larus michahellis)
  34. Lesser Black-backed Gull (Larus fuscus)
  35. Black-headed Gull (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
  36. Whiskered Tern (Chlidonias hybridus)
  37. Gull-billed Tern (Gelochelidon nilotica)
  38. White Stork (Ciconia ciconia)
  39. Black Stork (Ciconia nigra)
  40. Eurasian Spoonbill (Platalea leucorodia)
  41. Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus)
  42. Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber)
  43. Great Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo)
  44. Little Bittern (Ixobrychus minutus)
  45. Western Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis)
  46. Little Egret (Egretta garzetta)
  47. Black-crowned Night Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax)
  48. Great White Egret (Ardea alba)
  49. Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea)
  50. Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea)
  51. Eurasian Griffon (Gyps fulvus)
  52. Cinereous Vulture (Aegypius monachus)
  53. Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus)
  54. Red Kite (Milvus milvus)
  55. Black Kite (Milvus migrans)
  56. Black-winged Kite (Elanus caeruleus)
  57. Montagu’s Harrier (CIrcus pygargus)
  58. Western Marsh Harrier (Circus aeruginosus)
  59. Eurasian Sparrowhawk (Accipiter nisus)
  60. Common Buzzard (Buteo buteo)
  61. Booted Eagle (Aquila pennata)
  62. Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos)
  63. Spanish Imperial Eagle (Aquila adalberti)
  64. Little Owl (Athene noctua)
  65. Common Swift (Apus apus)
  66. Pallid Swift (Apus pallidus)
  67. Alpine Swift (Apus melba)
  68. Eurasian Hoopoe (Upupa epops)
  69. European Bee-eater (Merops apiaster)
  70. European Roller (Coracias garrulus)
  71. Common Kingfisher (Alcedo atthis)
  72. Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major)
  73. Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (Dryobates minor)
  74. Iberian Green Woodpecker (Picus sharpei)
  75. Eurasian Wryneck (Jynx torquilla)
  76. Eurasian Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus)
  77. Lesser Kestrel (Falco naumanni)
  78. Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus)
  79. European Crag Martin (Ptyonoprogne rupestris)
  80. Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica)
  81. Western House Martin (Delichon urbicum)
  82. Red-rumped Swallow (Cecropis daurica)
  83. Sand Martin (Riparia riparia)
  84. Greater Short-toed Lark (Calandrella brachydactyla)
  85. Crested Lark (Galerida cristata)
  86. Thekla’s Lark (Galerida theklae)
  87. Woodlark (Lullula arborea)
  88. Calandra Lark (Melanocorypha calandra)
  89. Meadow Pipit (Anthus pratensis)
  90. Water Pipit (Anthus spinolleta)
  91. White Wagtail (Motacilla alba)
  92. Grey Wagtail (Motacilla cinerea)
  93. Dunnock (Prunella modularis)
  94. European Pied Flycatcher (Ficedula hypoleuca)
  95. European Robin (Erithacus rubecula)
  96. Common Nightingale (Luscinia megarhynchos)
  97. Common Redstart (Phoenicurus phoenicurus)
  98. Black Redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros)
  99. Northern Wheatear (Oenanthe oenanthe)
  100. Western Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe hispanica)
  101. Black Wheatear (Oenanthe leucura)
  102. European Stonechat (Saxicola rubicola)
  103. Whinchat (Saxicola rubetra)
  104. Mistle Thrush (Turdus viscivorus)
  105. European Blackbird (Turdus merula)
  106. Blue Rock Thrush (Monticola solitarius)
  107. Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush (Monticola saxatilis)
  108. Eurasian Blackcap (Sylvia atricapilla)
  109. Sardinian Warbler (Curruca melanocephala)
  110. Western Subalpine Warbler (Curruca iberiae)
  111. Dartford Warbler (Curruca undata)
  112. Western Orphean Warbler (Curruca hortensis)
  113. Cetti’s Warbler (Cettia cetti)
  114. Great Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus arundinaceus)
  115. Common Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus scirpaceus)
  116. Sedge Warbler (Acrocephalus schoenobaenus) – heard only
  117. Savi’s Warbler (Locustella luscinioides)
  118. Willow Warbler (Phylloscopus trochilus) – heard only
  119. Firecrest (Regulus ignicapillus)
  120. Eurasian Wren (Troglodytes troglodytes)
  121. Eurasian Blue Tit (Cyanistes caeruleus)
  122. European Crested Tit (Lophophanes cristatus)
  123. Great Tit (Parus majors)
  124. Coal Tit (Periparus ater)
  125. Long-tailed Tit (Aegithalos caudatus)
  126. Western Penduline Tit (Remiz pendulinus)
  127. Short-toed Treecreeper (Certhia brachydactyla)
  128. Eurasian Nuthatch (Sitta europaeus)
  129. Woodchat Shrike (Lanius senator)
  130. Iberian Grey Shrike (Lanius meridionalis)
  131. Eurasian Magpie (Pica pica)
  132. Iberian Magpie (Cyanopica cooki)
  133. Eurasian Jay (Garrulus glandarius)
  134. Western Jackdaw (Coloeus monedula)
  135. Carrion Crow (Corvus corone)
  136. Common Raven (Corvus corax)
  137. Red-billed Chough (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax)
  138. Spotless Starling (Sturnus vulgaris)
  139. Eurasian Golden Oriole (Oriolus oriolus) – heard only
  140. Eurasian Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus)
  141. House Sparrow (Passer domesticus)
  142. Spanish Sparrow (Passer hispanoliensis)
  143. Common Rock Sparrow (Petronia petronia)
  144. Common Chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs)
  145. European Serin (Serinus serinus)
  146. Eurasian Goldfinch (Carduelis carduelis)
  147. Eurasian Greenfinch (Chloris chloris)
  148. Eurasian Siskin (Spinus spinus) – heard only
  149. Citril Finch (Carduelis citrinella)
  150. Linnet (Acanthis cannabina)
  151. Cirl Bunting (Emberiza cirlus)
  152. Rock Bunting (Emberiza cia)
  153. Corn Bunting (Emberiza calandra)

List of mammals seen during the tour

  1. European Rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus)
  2. Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes)
  3. Spanish Ibex (Capra hispanica)
  4. Red Deer (Cervus elaphus)

Pyrenees Winter Break 2024

  • Dates: From February 6th to 10th, 2024
  • Tour participants: 5
  • Number of species seen: 110
  • Tour leader: Carles Oliver

All images in this trip report by tour leader Carles Oliver unless otherwise specified. All rights reserved.

Overview: 10th Pyrenees Winter Break issue. This winter in the Pyrenees has been specially unnormal. The winter started normally, with the first snowfall happening in early November. Soon, the trend changed and we faced several weeks without any snowfall and the high temperatures melted the few snow left. With temperatures ranking 25ºC in January, some high mountain specialties changed their normal routines, especially affected were Snow Finches and Citril Finches, but also Alpine Choughs. This anormal situation, made the tour a bit harder than usual. Despite all of this, we got excellent views in the high mountain specialties and many of the steppe birds, with stunning views on both Wallcreeper and Dupont’s Lark, and 8+ Lammergeiers & 5+ Cinereous Vultures seen.

Day 1. After gathering all the tour participants from their accommodations around the city and enjoy tea & coffee stop we headed to the first birding stop of the tour. During the next hour, we walked around a mosaic landscape with some large trees, bushland and crops.

Here we were delighted to see the first Iberian Green Woodpeckers of the trip, quite active in the early morning. The morning was a bit cloudy and, once again, warm for what we can expect in Barcelona in early February. Small flocks of Common Chaffinches were getting out of the fields, and along with them we saw European Serins and Eurasian Tree Sparrows. Our walk around had a nice start, with a showy Lesser Spotted Woodpecker was calling and drumming from the top of the canopies, and we had really good looks on it for almost five minutes. In this same spot we also got Iberian Green Woodpeckers and a Ring-necked Parakeet exploring some nesting holes. Both Great & Blue Tits were active in the area, and a juvenile Peregrine Falcon did a couple of fast flights in the area, hoping to catch one of the several small birds moving. Other interesting birds here included Eurasian Hoopoe, Eurasian Jay and Common Pheasant. 3 Rock Buntings flew out from the bushes, but unfortunately none of the tour participants had a proper view on them

From the lovely plain in the Llobregat Delta we drove to a small garden around Barcelona where a White-throated Sparrow had been seen. We waited for almost one hour but, unfortunately, the Sparrow didn’t show for us. Still, a nice flock of Red-billed Leiothrix was a great entertainment for us, with some Eurasian Blackcaps and Coal Tits also showing well.

After a short stop for coffees and logistics, we drove up to the hills, with the next stop in the top of the one of the highest mountains between Barcelona and the Pyrenees. Here we had the longest walk of the trip, aiming to connect with the small population of Alpine Accentors living there. Fortunately we didn’t have to walk a lot before a lovely flock of at least 12 Alpine Accentors came to us to offer the group wonderful and very long views, with some of the birds performing right in front of us for several minutes! It was midday and in this small peak, normally covered with snow in early February, the sensation was of being late September! We had a comfortable 15ºC when being at 1700m above the sea level! Even in such a conditions, it was very surprising to find a female Hen Harrier hunting in the slopes of the mountains, and moreover, to see 3 Dartford Warblers singing and chasing each other in the tall vegetation. This is only a summer visitor to this habitat, normally covered by snow. Dartford Warblers spend the winter at lower altitudes, waiting for the snow to melt and temperatures to arise up (this is normally happening by late March or early April).

From here we covered the short distance of driving to the first hillsides of the Pyrenees where, even before arriving to the planned stop, we had to do a stop in one of its minor roads, that appeared covered by hundreds of Finches. Here we got the first excellent views on Common Crossbill, with some superb males singing from the top of the Mountain Pines. Hundreds of Eurasian Siskins were calling and singing here, probably moving North to their nesting grounds in Northern Europe. Eurasian Goldfinch, Coal & Crested Tits, Goldcrest and Mistle Thrush were all seen here, some of them providing great looks. At least 2 Citril Finches were noted inside this massive flock of birds, but they flew over almost unnoticed and I fell to put anyone in the group on the Finches, that fastly disappeared in the forest.

The afternoon was well advanced when we had our last stop of the day. This time to have some time in a lovely subboreal forest. Here, we were again surrounded by Common Crossbills and Siskins and only one minute after leaving the van we had a Black Woodpecker calling not far away. It took us only a pair of minutes to contact with the bird, that was active with a variety of calls to finally stop in a large, dead trunk. There we enjoyed long views as the bird was first calling and then preening before going away. We still had some more time in this lovely habitat, but it didn’t produce anything else out of a pair of showy Great Spotted Woodpeckers and 1 Eurasian Nuthatch.

Close up on Common Buzzard (Buteo buteo) to start the tour.
Red-billed Leiothrix (Leiothrix lutea) has a small population in the forests around Barcelona.
Alpine Accentor (Prunella collaris) was worth every step un the hill!
Common Crosbill (Loxia curvirostra) has been a common sight along this winter in the Pyrenees.
We enjoyed rather distant but long views on Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius).

Day 2. After enjoying our breakfast in our quiet accommodation in La Cerdanya valley, we spent the next couple of hours exploring the valley immediately beside. Here, a number of selected stops produced a good list of birds that included large numbers of Mistle Thrushes and Redwings with some Fieldfares but also really good views on Short-toed Treecreeper, Common Crossbills, Crested Tit and, especially, gorgeous looks on Rock Buntings that seemed very active and ready to start the nesting season.

From here, we drove inside Andorra. All the main mountain passes in this area of Catalonia had no snow at the moment, and our only hope to find Snow Finches was to go inside Andorra and do some stops along a mountain pass reaching 2500 metres above the sea level and sky resort located nearby. Once there, we saw that the amount of snow was also really thin, and the sunny weather reduced our chances to connect with the Finches even thinner. Still, we enjoyed very lovely views on Alpine Choughs as they were feeding around the sky resort but also acting almost as Wallcreepers in the buildings around!

Crossing Andorra, we headed South towards the most impressive spot for large raptors in the Pyrenees. Even if the intense Andorran traffic made us go slowly, we arrived to the hillsides around Isona with the sun well high in the sky. Moreover, in our way out of Andorra we got excellent views on White-throated Dippers.

The rest of the afternoon we drove along a pair of tracks, with several stops to enjoy the many birds of prey in the sky. After three hours, a conservative count showed out 7 Lammergeiers, hundreds of Eurasian Griffons and 12 Cinereous Vultures. We got several excellent views, with adult Lammergeiers passing only tens of metres away from the van; Lammergeiers circling along with Cinereous Vultures; or a flock of 15 Griffons and 4 Lammergeiers all circling together to name some of most celebrated sights. Due to the multiple stops to enjoy the several raptors in the sky, we arrived to our accommodation a bit later than expected, but with some unforgettable memories!

Rock Bunting (Emberiza cia) singing his heart out for us.
Alpine Chough (Phyrrocorax graculus)
Alpine Chough close up in our visit in Andorra.
Lammergeier (Gypaetos barbatus), one of the several enjoyed.
A pair of Lammergeiers almost touching wings.
Cinereous Vulture (Aegypius monachus) has a small but healthy population in the Pyrenees.

Day 3. After breakfast, we covered the short distance from Lleida to the first gorges in the Pyrenees. Once there, we spent a couple of hours enjoying the rocky outcrops. Blue Rock Thrush had a short appearance, but Firecrests and Goldcrest gave us long views. In the cliffs, Griffons Vultures were nesting along with Rock Sparrows. In the river along the gorge, Dippers were moving up and down along with Grey Wagtails. Other birds here included Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Cirl Buntings and Sardinian Warbler.

But the main reason to come was another, and a really important one. To be fair, the Wallcreeper overwintering in the gorge didn’t take long to appear, but we had to wait a bit before everybody in the group could connect with it. Still, we were really lucky, and a Wallcreeper appeared at its typical place a bit after 10:00 in the morning. The bird was half way up in the cliff, and not very showy. We had to wait for 5 minutes before the bird, suddenly, decided to come down by the tarmac! The next 10 minutes were some of the most intense in our Pyrenean outings this winter, with extremely close views on this Wallcreeper, while the bird was moving really low along the gorge. At times, we had ti sensation of be able even of touching the bird!

Wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria) at close range. Image by Mark Dowie.
Another great shot on Wallcreeper. Please note the delicate design of the undertail coverts. Image by Mark Dowie.

After enjoying such a wonderful views on the one of the main specialties living in the mountains we drove down to the plains. There, large flocks of European Golden Plovers and Northern Lapwings were waiting for us. We have our lunch stop by a small pond, where we had Northern Shovelers, Common Pochards, Little Grebes, Eurasian Coots & Teals, 2 Green Sandpipers but also large flocks of White Storks in the move from their roosting places around Lleida. The area was also good for small birds and European Stonechat, Meadow Pipit, Eurasian Skylark, Crested Lark, Chiffchaff, Linnet, Reed Bunting and Eurasian Tree Sparrow were noted.

After lunch we changed to a second pond, and our visit was granted with nice views on 7 Ferruginous Ducks, a very scarce bird in Catalonia!

Driving East, we arrived to an area with a very different landscape. Here, small but cleverly managed fields still allow a good density of Little Bustards. This species, formerly fairly common in Iberia, had become almost a scarcity, and its winter flocks have been severely decimated. A first stop was done to try to connect with a pair of Black-winged Kites nesting in the area, but we only got a small flock of Woodlarks, several Corn Buntings and multiple views on Red Kite & Marsh Harrier. A bit further, 4 Little Bustards were seen by the road, and we got good views from the van to don’t disturb the birds.

The last stop of the day was deserved to the desert-like ambients South of Lleida, where we had a short walk to enjoy the first Thekla’s Larks of the trip along with lovely flocks of Red-billed Choughs, Spotless Starlings, Rock Sparrows and a Black Wheatear that refused to show for the group! It was already quite late, but we decided to have a very last stop, and our effort was very worth. We still had to get out of the van when we listened and Eurasian Eagle Owl calling from somewhere in the valley. After a fast scanning, we decided to go for a slow short walk, and after a few metres Mark got the bird singing from a dead branch up in the hillside. During the few minutes, we got amazing scope views on the bird while some Redwings were attending their roosting site. A superb way to end another very good day!

Part of the flock of Ferruginous Ducks (Aythya nyroca) seen around Lleida.
Little Bustard (Tetrax tetrax) female feeding.
Eagle Owl calling from its perch. Image by Mark Dowie.

Day 4. After a sunny start of the trip, this was a grey and rainy day. A difficult weather to search for the specialties living in the steppes. Still, we went to explore the endless plains in central Monegros. A first stop in a small salty lagoon produced the only Kentish Plover of the trip along with Common Shelducks and Black-headed Gulls. From here, we got in the plains, but the muddy tracks made difficult for us to arrive to some locations. Still, we were lucky enough to contact with 2 nice Black-bellied Sandgrouses that provided flying views. 1 Little Owl was also a nice sight while flocks of Calandra & Skylarks were flying over the fields. After a couple of hours checking around the rain became heavier, and we decided to go for a service stop. It was a fortunate choice since the sky cleared right when we were leaving the coffee shop.

Back to the plains, we managed to arrive to a nice spot and soon we found a nice of 11 Pin-tailed Sandgrouses that stayed on a field for us for about 20 minutes. Here we had nice scope views with some good photo and video chances. Several Calandra & Crested Larks were singing here, and as the sun became stronger, the first Mediterranean Short-toed Larks (aka Lesser Short-toed Larks) of the trip were noted. From here we moved into a different section of the plains, and we were lucky to find a nice flock of 31 Common Cranes feeding on the ground at close range, and a closer flock of Eurasian Griffons on the ground, waiting for the weather to improve. Here we also got a nice male Hen Harrier flying over the large fields, and 2 extra Little Owls! But unfortunately the rain started again, even heavier than before and we decided to move away, trying to put some distance from the mud and the rain.

But when we arrive to our new accommodation, the rain was also there for us, and we decided to end the day after enjoying a distant view on a new Little Owl.

Pin-tailed Sandgrouses (Pterocles alchata) feeding under the rain.

Day 5. After enjoying breakfast, we headed out to the large steppes immediatly South of Zaragoza. This is a wonderful are to enjoy steppe birds, with multiple places where to go and try to find the different specialties living in the region. After the generous rain of the previous day, we woke up in a sunny day with only some clouds.

We started driving in the minor tracks crossing the steppes and soon got 2 Black-bellied Sandgrouses in a farming area. Beyond, both Calandra and Mediterranean Short-toed Larks started singing, offering both really good looks. It didn’t take long before we got a first Dupont’s Lark singing. It looked like far away, but then a second bird started singing a bit closer. Some Short-toed Larks were around, feeding and providing some photo opportunities. The wind started to pick up, but both Dupont’s Larks were still singing. We put out the scopes, trying to see them in the ocean of grass in front of us, but we couldn’t contact with the bird..

After 40 minutes of scan we decided to move away and try a different spot. By that time the wind was already strong. A new Lesser Short-toed Lark in good light was welcome by the photographers in the group, but suddenly a second bird appeared right behind the Short-toed Lark. A Dupont’s Lark sitting in the top of a small bush only 10 metres away from us!! Soon we were all having the bird and celebrating our luck.

Mediterranean Short-toed Lark (Alaudala rufescens).
Lovely views on a singing Dupont’s Lark (Chersophilus duponti) after a couple of hours of waiting! Image by tour leader Carles Oliver
Thekla’s Lark (Galerida theklae) close up to end our exploration of the steppes.

Leaving the steppes, we still had a pair of Red-billed Choughs displaying around and 2 Black-bellied Sandgrouses plus a pair of superb Golden Eagles in the highway. But certainly the wind had picked up in the last minutes. We started the final transfer to Barcelona, having a stop in a lovely lagoon with a wonderful reedbed. Unfortunately, by the time we arrived to the lagoon the wind was so strong that it was almost not possible to stand up, and we had to search refuge in a blind and even inside the van to enjoy our packed lunches. Here, we only got Gadwalls and Great Crested Grebes and the very strong wind made no possible to contact with any passerine living in the reeds.

Despite the strong wind, we still had something to add to our list and a small detour to explore a sheltered gorge produced a nice male Black Wheatear in the top of a small cliff, providing good views to all the members of the group. This very last minute sight was really appreciated, since the first contact with this species, a couple of days before, was poor and not everyone in the group actually so the bird.

After this short stop, we just transferred back to Barcelona to end our tour around the airport by mid afternoon.

List of birds seen during the tour

  1. Red-legged Partridge (Alectoris rufa)
  2. Ring-necked Pheasant (Phaisanus colchinus)
  3. Common Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna)
  4. Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)
  5. Gadwall (Anas strepera)
  6. Eurasian Teal (Anas crecca)
  7. Northern Shoveler (Spatula clypeata)
  8. Common Pochard (Aythya ferina)
  9. Ferruginous Duck (Aythya nyroca)
  10. Little Bustard (Tetrax tetrax)
  11. Black-bellied Sandgrouse (Pterocles orientalis)
  12. Pin-tailed Sandgrouse (Pterocles alchata)
  13. Feral Pigeon (Columba livia domestica)
  14. Stock Dove (Columba oenas)
  15. Common Woodpigeon (Columba palumbus)
  16. Eurasian Collared Dove (Streptopelia decaocto)
  17. Eurasian Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus)
  18. Eurasian Coot (Fulica atra)
  19. Common Crane (Grus grus)
  20. Great Crested Grebe (Podiceps cristatus)
  21. Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
  22. Kentish Plover (Charadrius alexandrinus)
  23. European Golden Plover (Pluvialis apricaria)
  24. Northern Lapwing (Vanellus vanellus)
  25. Greenshank (Tringa nebularia)
  26. Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus)
  27. Yellow-legged Gull (Larus michahellis)
  28. White Stork (Ciconia ciconia)
  29. Great Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo)
  30. Western Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis)
  31. Great White Egret (Ardea alba)
  32. Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea)
  33. Lammergeier (Gypaetus barbatus)
  34. Eurasian Griffon (Gyps fulvus)
  35. Cinereous Vulture (Aegypius monachus)
  36. Red Kite (Milvus milvus)
  37. Hen Harrier (CIrcus cyaneus)
  38. Western Marsh Harrier (Circus aeruginosus)
  39. Eurasian Sparrowhawk (Accipiter nisus)
  40. Common Buzzard (Buteo buteo)
  41. Eurasian Eagle Owl (Bubo bubo)
  42. Little Owl (Athene noctua)
  43. Eurasian Hoopoe (Upupa epops)
  44. Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major)
  45. Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (Dryobates minor)
  46. Iberian Green Woodpecker (Picus sharpei)
  47. Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius)
  48. Eurasian Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus)
  49. Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus)
  50. Rose-ringed Parakeet (Psittacula krameri)
  51. Mediterranean Short-toed Lark (Alaudala rufescens)
  52. Eurasian Skylark (Alauda arvensis)
  53. Crested Lark (Galerida cristata)
  54. Thekla’s Lark (Galerida theklae)
  55. Woodlark (Lullula arborea)
  56. Calandra Lark (Melanocorypha calandra)
  57. Dupont’s Lark (Chersophilus duponti)
  58. Meadow Pipit (Anthus pratensis)
  59. White Wagtail (Motacilla alba)
  60. Grey Wagtail (Motacilla cinerea)
  61. White-bellied Dipper (Cinclus cinclus)
  62. Alpine Accentor (Prunella collaris)
  63. European Robin (Erithacus rubecula)
  64. Black Redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros)
  65. Black Wheatear (Oenanthe leucura)
  66. European Stonechat (Saxicola rubicola)
  67. Song Thrush (Turdus philomelos)
  68. Redwing (Turdus iliacus)
  69. Mistle Thrush (Turdus viscivorus)
  70. European Blackbird (Turdus merula)
  71. Blue Rock Thrush (Monticola solitarius)
  72. Eurasian Blackcap (Sylvia atricapilla)
  73. Sardinian Warbler (Curruca melanocephala)
  74. Dartford Warbler (Curruca undata)
  75. Cetti’s Warbler (Cettia cetti)
  76. Common Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus collybita)
  77. Goldcrest (Regulus regulus)
  78. Firecrest (Regulus ignicapillus)
  79. Eurasian Wren (Troglodytes troglodytes)
  80. Eurasian Blue Tit (Cyanistes caeruleus)
  81. European Crested Tit (Lophophanes cristatus)
  82. Great Tit (Parus majors)
  83. Coal Tit (Periparus ater)
  84. Long-tailed Tit (Aegithalos caudatus)
  85. Red-billed Leiothrix (Leiothrix lutea)
  86. Short-toed Treecreeper (Certhia brachydactyla)
  87. Wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria)
  88. Iberian Grey Shrike (Lanius meridionalis)
  89. Eurasian Magpie (Pica pica)
  90. Eurasian Jay (Garrulus glandarius)
  91. Western Jackdaw (Coloeus monedula)
  92. Carrion Crow (Corvus corone)
  93. Common Raven (Corvus corax)
  94. Alpine Chough (Pyrrhocorax graculus)
  95. Red-billed Chough (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax)
  96. European Starling (Sturnus unicolor)
  97. Spotless Starling (Sturnus vulgaris)
  98. Eurasian Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus)
  99. House Sparrow (Passer domesticus)
  100. Common Rock Sparrow (Petronia petronia)
  101. Common Chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs)
  102. European Serin (Serinus serinus)
  103. Eurasian Goldfinch (Carduelis carduelis)
  104. Eurasian Greenfinch (Chloris chloris)
  105. Eurasian Siskin (Spinus spinus)
  106. Linnet (Acanthis cannabina)
  107. Common Crossbill (Loxia curvirostra)
  108. Cirl Bunting (Emberiza cirlus)
  109. Rock Bunting (Emberiza cia)
  110. Corn Bunting (Emberiza calandra)

List of mammals seen during the tour

  1. European Rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus)
  2. Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes)
  3. Red Deer (Cervus elaphus)

Ciutat del Cap 2022, crònica del viatge

  • Dates: Del 14 al 21 d’octubre del 2022
  • Participants: 4
  • Nombre d’espècies vistes: 230
  • Tour líder: Sergi Sales

Totes les imatges en aquesta crònica de viatge són obra d’en Joan Barat a menys no s’especifiqui el contrari. Tots els drets estan reservat / All images in this trip report by tour participant Joan Barat unless otherwise specified. All rights reserved.

Resum: Segon tour ornitològic a la província del Western Cape, amb tota la experiència acumulada del nostre primer tour. En aquesta ocasió cal destacar una molt bona diversitat d’Anàtides i d’altres espècies de zones humida. Sembla que la relativa sequera que hi havia a la zona va fer que moltes petites zones humides fossin seques, concentrant les aus en les grans zones humides costaneres. La sortida pelàgica, una experiència gairebé única, va proporcionar una llista més que destacable i sempre és un moment excitant el passar a tocar del Cap de Bona Esparança escortat per estols de pingüins africans i mascarells del Cap per adentrar-se a l’Oceà, a on esperen els albatros i els petrells gegants…

A terra, el tour va aconseguir observacions fantàstiques d’espècies tant destacables com arpella negra o sisó del Cap, però els moments viscuts a tocar d’una parella de saltarroques del Cap van ser, potser, els més intensos. Només els que han provat de trobar aquests esquerps animals saben de la dificultat de connectar amb aquesta espècie quasi llegendària…

Sud-àfrica és la regió d’Àfrica amb major nombre d’espècies endèmiques en part per l’exclusivitat dels hàbitats que allà es troben, ambients àrids, els fynbos i karoo , tots ells els varen poder visitar, observant la majoria d’especialitats a més en l’època més espectacular amb el màxim de floració per a moltes espècies vegetals, tot i no ser un any especialment humit. Això encara es manifesta més amb les diverses visites als majestuosos parcs botànics de la zona on hi ha una gran diversitat d’espècies d’ocells.

El resultat ens reafirma en que el Western Cape és un lloc de visita obligada en
aquestes dates per qualsevol ornitòleg interessat en l’ornitofauna africana i les aus pelàgiques.

Sisó negre meridional / Southern Black Korhaan (Afrotis afra)

Abstract: Second tour to Cape Town, with all the experience acquired from the first tour. This tour enjoyed a wonderful weather all the week long, and very good densities of waterfowl. The province was in the middle of a short drought, and this favoured the ducks and other waterfowl to concentrate along the major coastal wetlands. The offshore, an unique experience, ended with a great list. It is always a formidable moment to overpass the Good Hope Cape escorted by dozens of African Penguins, Cormorants different species and Cape Gannets, while in the open Ocean a good array of Albatrosses and Giant Petrels are awaiting..

On land, our group enjoyed great views on 40+ endemics or near-endemics, being especially great those on Southern Black Korhaan, Blue Crane, Cape Siskin, Black Harrier, Agulhas Long-billed Lark, the striking Orange-breasted Sunbird, the magnificent Cape Sugarbird ,and especially ,the enigmatic and often difficult to find Cape Rockjumper.

Once more, we were delighted by the blossom in Western Cape. Here, a gorgeous variety of unique flora was waiting for us. Both fynbos (mediterranean style scrubland) and karoo (desert-like areas) were full of wonderful proteas and aloes! An spectacle by its own not only in the wild, but also in the many and superb Botanical Gardens around.

Dia 1. El grup surt des de l’aeroport de Barcelona i, després d’una escala a Àmsterdam, arribem a Ciutat del Cap poc abans de mitjanit. Al poc temps d’aterrar ens confirmen que la sortida pelàgica, prevista per l’endemà al matí, s’ajorna en previsió de forts vents i onatge sever. No és una eventualitat estranya, tenint el compte la meteorologia complexe de la zona. Naturalment, teníem un plà alternatiu.

Dia 2. Al matí següent, després d’un bon esmorzar, aprofitem per fer una primera passejada a l’entorn de l’hotel on veiem les primeres especialitat com el pardal del Cap, la cuereta del Cap i zosterop del Cap .

Una petita zona humida propera acull grups familiars de fotges banyudes i colònies actives de teixidors social del Cap i emmascarat .  Una petita illa es converteix es zona de descans pels petits corbs marins africans, alhora que centenars de gavines de Harlaub, de cap-gris i gavià de Liechstentein . Sortejant el tranquil trànsit de Ciutat del Cap, arribem a un complexe d’aiguamolls al Sud de la ciutat on la densitat i diversitat d’ànecs és impressionant. Hi han centenars de xarxets del Cap , amb Ànec cullerot sud-africà però també ànecs bec-groc, bec-vermell i el més escàs Xibec bru. Als pals dins l’aigua descansen grups de Xatrac reial bec-groc . També hi han grans estols de Flamencs amb més d’una quarantena de Flamencs menuts. Un escanejat dels grups d’ànecs ens permet trobar un Ànec arborí bicolor, una espècie rara a Ciutat del Cap que sembla que enguany ha tingut una inusual irrupció en aquest espai.

Encara sense deixar la ciutat, canviem dràsticament d’hàbitat i visitem el Jardí Botànic de Kirstenbosch, impressionant espai amb una bona representació de les comunitats d’ocells presents als Fynbos. Per la gespa ens sorprenen grups familiars de Francolí del Cap acompanyats de Merla olivàcia i Còssifa del Cap .

Fins a 5 espècies de suimangues aprofiten el gran nombre de flors, acompanyats de Llèpols del Cap . Una parella de Duc africà nidifica en un zona pública i alhora que la femella esta covant els ous de la nova niuada, els joves de l’anterior posta estan en plena emancipació. Acabem la jornada gaudint de l’únic Colom ull groc del viatge.

Cape Teals & Cape Shovelers. Dues espècies força comunes a la província del Western Cape.
Xibec bru / Southern Pochard Netta erythrophthalma), una de les espècies més elegants dins del gènere Aythya.
La fotxa banyuda / Red-knobbed Coot (Fulica cristata), una espècie habitual a Ciutat del Cap.
Flamenc nan / Lesser Flamingo (Phoeniconaias minor) en vol
Fredeguga armada / Blacksmith Lapwing (Vanellus armata)
Batis del Cap / Cape Batis (Batis capensis)
Duc africà / Spotted Eagle Owl (Bubo africanus), a common species around the city.
Zosterops del Cap / Cape White-eye (Zosterops virens)
Botxí fiscal meridional / Southern Fiscal (Lanius collaris)
Suimange d’acer / Southern Double-collared Sunbird (Cynniris chalybeus)
Còssifa del Cap / Cape Robin Chat (Cossipha caffra)

Dia 3. Confirmat que podrem fer un dels millors moments del tour, la sortida pelàgica!! Però comencem amb un ensurt ja que el nostres hotel està encerclat per la marató de Cape Town que es celebra aquell mateix dia. Afortunadament vàrem sortir amb molta antelació i finalment vàrem trobar la sortida cap al sud. Entre tant de temps d’espera vam detectar un pinsà comú, espècie introduïda pels britànics. Desprès de les corresponents explicacions pugem a la barca, al propi port es veuen 3 espècies de corbs marins: el corb marí del Cap, el coronat i el gorja blanc, compartint espai amb garses de mar negres africanes. Abans de sortir d’una badia amb la mar ben plana, passem prop de roques on es veuen ossos marins Afro-australians i una petita colònia de corbs marins d’ull groc. A l’aigua hi ha petits grups de pingüins del Cap pescant activament. Una vegada passat l’espectacular Cap de Bona Esperança veiem barques locals pescant barracudes i les primeres aus pelàgiques, en concret ràpides baldrigues de barbeta blanca, estols d’adults de mascarells del Cap i un petit estol de gavinetes de cua-forcada. Arribats a mar obert no es fa esperar el 1er albatros, en concret un parell d’albatros tímids. També ens acompanyen paràsits subantàrtics intentant piratejar els grups de gavines i xatracs.

A partir d’aquí l’objectiu es intentar detectar els gran vaixells pesquers que treballen per la zona, on estols de centenars d’aus marines aprofiten els descart de la pesquera. La presencia de grups d’Albatros, Baldrigues, petrells…ens confirmen que ens estem apropant a un d’ells. Un bon nombre de baldrigues grises i cap-negres acompanyen la barca a curta distancia. També comencen a aparèixer els 1ers ocells de tempesta de Wilson i Europeus. Als Albatros tímids se li sumen un bon nombre d’albatros cellanegre, bec-groc Atlantic i del Pacífic. Els Petrells gegants, tant el del Nord com el del Sud fan varies incursions en els estols d’aus, però sens dubte un dels ocells més espectaculars de la sortida van ser els diversos petrell del Cap.

Bank & Cape Cormorants (Phalacrocorax
Petrell del Cap / Cape Petrel
Baldriga capnegre / Great Shearwater (Puffinus gravis)
Mascarell del Cap / Cape Gannet (Morus capensis)
Baldriga cendrosa / Sooty Shearwater (Puffinus griseus)
Albatros tímid / Shy Albatross (Thalassarche cauta). Imatge del tour líder Sergi Sales.

White-chinned Petrel

Desprès de menjar uns excel·lents sandvitxos i fer les darreres fotografies, tornem cap a port, amb la sorpresa final del salt d’una Iubarta a curtíssima distancia de l’embarcació. Una vegada desembarcats una confiada Llúdriga del Cap  fa les delícies dels observadors.

Aprofitem la curta distancia per visitar la colònia de Pingüins on també trobem els 1ers ocells ratolins comuns, prinia del Karoo  i suimanga d’acer. La darrera aturada d’aquest tant excitant dia la fem a uns espectaculars turons des d’on tenim grans vistes de Ciutat del Cap i veiem els 1ers còlits familiars del tour.

Llúdria del Cap / Cape Clowless Otter (Aonyx capensis) passejant-se per les barques de pesca. Imatge del tour líder Sergi Sales.
Pingüí africà / African Penguin
Còlit familiar / Familiar Chat

Dia 4 . Durant aquesta assoleiada jornada, l’objectiu prioritari va ser el saltaroques del Cap, ocell endèmic i emblemàtic de la zona. Els saltaroques són ocells rupícoles força peculiars. Només existeixen dues espècies en aquest gènere, totes dues endèmiques de Sud-àfrica i que viuen en vessants pedregossos amb més o menys cobertura vegetal. El matí ventós i la coincidència amb varis grups d’ornitòlegs que ens anem trobant sense que hagin pogut trobar-ne cap ens fa témer el pitjor, però finalment vam aconseguir el premi a la perseverança quan una parella d’aquest vistós ocell apareix ben a prop del camí recollint material per fer el niu. L’observació va ser a plaer i, a molt curta distància, amb el mascle sovint atansant-se a només 3 o 4 metres de distància.

Tot i el vent aquesta localització va tornar a ser esplèndida i vàrem anar sumant espècies a la llista destacant-ne el corb becgròs de clatell blanc, la suimanga de pit taronja o el sit del Cap.

Saltarroques del Cap / Cape Rockjumper (Chaetops frenatus) female.
Saltarroques del Cap / Cape Rockjumper (Chaetos frenatus) male. A gorgeous and often elusive bird!
Sit del Cap / Cape Bunting (Emberiza capensis)
Gafarró del Cap / Cape Canary (Serinus canicollis)

Més arrecerats vàrem visitar un petit jardí botànic però en el qual hi havien una gran quantitat i diversitat d’ocells. Bones observacions de batis del Cap, papamosques fosc i fiscal, gafarró gris i estrilda de galta negra i els espectaculars monarques del paradís africà.

A la tarda petit trànsfer fins al West Coast National Park canviant de paisatges mentre travessem grans extensions amb bones densitat de rapinyaires i alàudids. Una espectacular òliba ens va acomiadar la jornada.

Dia 4. Des de la pròpia porta de l’hospedatge podem veure una zona inundada ben plena de limícols, gavines i xatracs. Entre ells corriols front-blanc i pàl-lid. Conduint per les pistes ens creuen els 1ers francolins jugulars, les 3 espècies d’ocells ratolí:  l’ocell ratolí cara roig, el comú i el de dors blanc. El parc es visita per una xarxa de pistes en molt bon estat on no es pot córrer entre d’altres coses per evitar atropellaments de fauna. Magnífics estruços sembla que ens donen la benvinguda al parc. Travessant la zona de Fynbos veiem espècies com l’oreneta perlada, cistícola d’esquena grisa, apalis de collar, terrerola dorsigrisa o la cogullada becgrossa . A les zones amb arbres es deixen veure el gladiador xiulador, la mallerenga bruna i l’estornell bicolor. Increïbles arpelles negres  rastregen la zona a baixa alçada però sense dubte el moment més màgic el generen les parades nupcials dels mascles del sisó negre meridional, alguns d’ells observats a distàncies ridículament curtes.

Arpella negra / Black Harrier (Circus maurus), a superb bird of prey!
Sisó negre meridional / Southern Black Korhaan
Prínia del Karoo / Karoo Prinia (Prinia flavicans)
Terrerola de cap rogenc / Red-capped Lark (Calandrella cinerea)
Suimanga malaquita / Malachite Sunbird (Nectarinia famosa)
Estruç comuna / Common Ostrich (Struthio camelis)
Cogullada bec-grossa / Large-billed Lark (Galerida magnirostris)
Puput africana / African Hoopoe (Upupa africana)
Bar-throated Apalis (Apalis thoracica)

Els Damaliscs es comencen a fer presents però una de les grans sorpreses va ser una rata-talp del Cap creuant amb total tranquil·litat la pista i construint en pocs minuts un cau a la sorra tot ajudants de la seva peculiar cua. Poc després ens trobem un espectacular escurçó bufador, una de les sorpreses més benvingudes del tour!

Posteriorment ens desplacem cap a l’Est creuant immenses extensions de cereal amb un bon ventall de basses on hi ha estols gegants d’oques egípcies i d’Esperons junts amb les primeres grues del Paradís i corriol de triple collar africà. Augmentem la llista d’alàudids sumant la terrerola de cap rogenc i confiats còlits variables.

Dia 5

Des d’un luxós allotjament iniciem una nova jornada per visitar un hàbitat nou, el “karoo”, zones semiàrides per un gran nombre d´endemismes i espècies interessants. Una aturada prop del riu aporta bones observacions d’ànec negre africà, camperol del cap i varies espècies d´orenetes. Fem una breu aturada en zones de rocalloses per cerca amb èxit merla roquera del Cap, gafarró totta i observacions increïblement bones de  estrilda de galta negra .

Posteriorment comencem la ruta que ens endinsa cap les zones de karoo on a pesar del vent i calor veiem espècies tant interessants com la prínia del karoo (karoo prinia), còlit formiguer muntanyenc (Mountain wheater), la prínia de Namaqua (Namaqua warbler) i papamosques follet (Fairy flycatcher).

Gafarró Totta / Cape Siskin (Crithagra totta)
Merla roquera del Cap / Cape Rock Thrush (Monticola rupestris)
Francolí jugular / Grey-winged Francolin (Scleroptila afra)

Cada vegada l’ambient és més sec i amb vegetació més baixa, on van sortint les diverses especialitats de l’espai: còlit alafalçat, còlit del karoo, còlit tractrac, còlit formiguer meriodinal  i la prínia cararoja  i un bon ventall d’alàudids com: l’alosa d’esperons, l’alosa becllarga de Namaqua , la cogullada bec-grossa i l’alosa del karoo . En un dels arbres veiem 3 impressionants astors cantaires pàl·lids i una majestuós àguila marcial. Acabem una gran jornada amb vistes d’una parella de ducs africans.

Dia 6

El primer objectiu del dia és visitar unes petites zones humides molt interessants per la quantitat i diversitat d’espècies que es poden observar. Dins el bon ventall d’ànec destaquen grups de xarxets hotentotsànecs arboris carablancs. Als canyissars estan en plena activitat de construcció de nius els teixidors  i als arbres propers ens sorprèn la presencia d’un astor blanc i negre .

Comencem el transit cap el proper espai a visitar, al Parc Nacional de Bontebok, famós no només per la diversitat d’ocells sinó que també per la població del mamífer que li dóna nom, alhora que manté una petita població de zebra de muntanya. En les primeres visualitzacions des dels punts d’observació ja veiem els primers piocs de Denham. Som a les dates en les que els mascles estan exhibint-se als leks de cria, i podem observar en directe la lenta aproximació d’una femella generant un augment de l’excitació i lluïment del mascle.

Un agradable pic-nic al marge del riu en permet fer l’única observació del viatge d’alció capbrú  i queleas de bec vermell. Les concentracions d’esparver d’espatlles negres soón elevades, guadint d’excel·lent observacions d’aquests rapinyaires. Les zones amb arbres i matolls permeten cercar un bon nombre d’ocells entre els que destaquen els sorollosos apalis gorja negres, acabant la jornada amb noves observacions crepusculars de ducs africans.

Pioc de Denham / Denham’s Bustard (Neotis denhami)
Xarxet hotentot / Blue-billed Teal (Spatula hottentota)
Bisbe vermell meridional / Southern Red Bishop (Euplectes orix)
Grua del paradís / Blue Crane (Anthropoides paradiseus)
Damalisc / Bontebok (Damaliscus pygargus dorcas). Image by tour leader Sergi Sales
Zebra de muntanya / Mountain Zebra (Equus zebra). Image by tour leader Sergi Sales
Bubú rovellat / Southern Boubou (Laniarius ferrugineus)
Esparver d’espatlles negres / Black-winged Kite (Elanius caeruleus)
Ocell secretari / Secretary Bird (Sagittarius serpentarius)

Dia 7

El camí d’accés des de l’allotjament fins al Reserva De Hoop travessa camps amb gran quantitat d’ocells, amb bones observacions d’alàudids, corriols, grues i fredelugues. Destaquen les bones visualitzacions d’alosa bec-llarga d’Aguhlas, terrerola de capell vermell i corriol pecuari.

 Un dels majors atractius d’aquest fantàstic espai natural és la colònia de l’endèmic voltor del cap els quals a pesar de la boira matinera no van tardar en fer acte de presencia. Després de rastrejar les zones boscoses on vàrem detectar espècie com el papamosques fiscal, bulbul verdós costaner, batis del cap o bubú ferruginós, ens apropem a les zones obertes i dunars.

En aquests espais oberts a mes de bones observacions dels impressionants Eland surten especies noves com les piules africanes i llise). Un espectacular escurço bufador va creuar parsimoniosament la pista davant la nostra atònita mirada.

Escurçó bufador / Puff Adder (Bitis arietans). Image by tour leader Sergi Sales

L’arribada al sistema dunar es va convertir en un dels moment màgics del tour, ja es podien veure i escoltar els cops d’aleta de les Iubartes alhora que els bufits de les properes balenes franques.

Però el llarg dia encara ens guardava un altre sorpresa, a una llarga recta s’observa una llarga silueta estesa sobre l’asfalt, després de moments de dubte al apropar-nos descobrim que un caracal estirat al terra menjant un ocell atropellat. Finalment el felí va amargar-se al marge de la carretera d’on durant poc segons va mostrar la seva cara convertint-se en un dels moment inoblidables del viatge.

Alosa bec-llarga d’Agulhas / Agulhas Long-billed Lark (Certhilauda brevides)
Astor blanc-i-negre / Black Sparrowhawk (Accipiter melanoleucos)
Papamosques fiscal / Fiscal Flycatcher (Sigelus sigens)
Voltor del Cap / Cape Vulture (Gyps coprotheres)
Cuaenlairat del Karoo / Karoo Scrub Robin (Cercotrichas coryphoeus)

Dia 8

Darrer dia de viatge que es planteja com a darrera possibilitat per poder cercar alguns dels ocells que ens havien fallat o dels que volem obtindre millors observacions. Però sobretot, matí pensat per observar una de les espècies per escasses, el xatrac de Damara. Per veure’l ens desplacem cap a una zona humida litoral on la gran sorpresa va ser la quantitat i diversitat d’espècies que ens van sortir en la carretera d’accés.  Estols de grues del paradís  amb sisó negre meridional  exhibint-se, sumant un falcó llaner cruspint-se una presa al terra i el sempre espectacular secretari. Acabant-t’ho de rematar dos mascles de vídua de cua d’agulla intentant impressionar amb les danses a una discreta femella.

Vídua de cua d’agulla / Pin-tailed Whydah (Vidua macroura)
Garsa de mar negrea africana / African Oystercatcher (Haematopus moquini)
Tortoreta cuallarga / Namaqua Dove (Oena capensis)
Corriol frontblanc / White-fronted Plover (Charadrius marginatus).
Falciot cuablanc africà / White-rumped Swift (Apus caffer)

La visita a l’estuari es converteix es una bona oportunitat per anar farcint el checklist del tour amb varies espècies de limícoles entre les que destaca l’observació de dues sisetes cendroses  i l’oportunitat de veure simultàniament els corriols grossos, pecuaris i frontblanc.

El rastreig dels grups de gavines i xatracs finalment dona el seu fruit poden observar 4 xatracs de Damara entre xatracs grossos .

Satisfacció per l’enèsim objectiu complert, ara comencem la tornada cap l’aeroport fent aturades a petits zones humides on fem el darrer intent per detectar l’única espècie que se`ns resistia, la malvasia africana, finalment un lluent mascle es va deixar veure per acabar de la millor manera possible un gran tour per la regió de Ciutat del Cap.

El comptatge final va ser de 233 espècies d’ocells vistes, entre elles 46 endèmics i 17 propers a endèmics.

Xoriguer africà / Rock Kestrel (Falco rupicolus)

LLISTA D’AUS OBSERVADES AL LLARG DEL TOUR

  1. Common Ostrich (Strythio camelus)
  2. White-faced Whistling Duck (Dendrocygna viduata)
  3. Fulvous Whistling Duck (Dendrocygna bicolor)
  4. Egyptian Goose (Alopochen aegyptiaca)
  5. South African Shelduck (Tadorna cana)
  6. Spur-winged Goose (Plectropterus gambensis)
  7. Blue-billed Duck (Spatula hottentota)
  8. Cape Shoveler (Spatula smithii)
  9. African Black Duck (Anas sparsa)
  10. Yellow-billed Duck (Anas undulata)
  11. Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)
  12. Cape Teal (Anas capensis)
  13. Red-billed Duck (Anas erythronicha)
  14. Southern Pochard (Netta erythrophthalma)
  15. Maccoa Duck (Oxyura maccoa)
  16. Helmeted Guineafowl (Numida meleagris)
  17. Grey-winged Francolin (Screloptila afra)
  18. Common Quail (Coturnix coturnix)
  19. Cape Francolin (Pternistis capensis)
  20. Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus roseus)
  21. Lesser Flamingo (Phoeniconaias minor)
  22. Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
  23. Great Crested Grebe (Podiceps cristatus)
  24. Black-necked Grebe (Podiceps nigricollis)
  25. Feral Pigeon (Columba livia)
  26. Speckled Pigeon (Columba guinea)
  27. Rameron Pigeon (Columba arquatix)
  28. Red-eye Dove (Streptopelia semitorquata)
  29. Ring-necked Dove (Streptopelia capicola)
  30. Laughing Dove (Streptopelia senegalensis)
  31. Namaqua Dove (Oena capensis)
  32. Denham’s Bustard (Neotis denhami)
  33. Southern Black Korhaan (Eupodotis affra)
  34. Alpine Swift (Apus melba)
  35. African Swift (Apus barbatus)
  36. Little Swift (Apus affinis)
  37. White-rumped Swift (Apus caffer)
  38. African Rail (Rallus caerulescens)
  39. Eurasian Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus)
  40. Red-knobbed Coot (Fulica cristata)
  41. African Swamphen (Porphyrio madagascarensis)
  42. Blue Crane (Anthropoides paradiseus)
  43. Water Thick-knee (Burhinus vermiculatus)
  44. Spotted Thick-knee (Burhinus capensis)
  45. Black-winged Stilt (Himantopus himantopus)
  46. Pied Avocet (Recurvirostra avosetta)
  47. African Oystercatcher (Haematopus moquini)
  48. Grey Plover (Pluvialis squatarola)
  49. Blacksmith Lapwing (Vanellus armata)
  50. Crowned Lapwing (Vanellus coronatus)
  51. Klittlitz’s Plover (Charadrius pecuarius)
  52. White-fronted Plover (Charadrius marginatus)
  53. Chestnut-banded Plover (Charadrius pallidus)
  54. Common Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula)
  55. Three-banded Plover (Charadrius tricollaris)
  56. Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)
  57. Bar-tailed Godwit (Limosa lapponica)
  58. Ruff (Calidris pugnax)
  59. Curlew Sandpiper (Calidris ferruginea)
  60. Sanderling (Calidris alba)
  61. Little Stint (Calidris minuta)
  62. Terek’s Sandpiper (Xenus cinereus)
  63. Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos)
  64. Greenshank (Tringa nebularia)
  65. Subantarctic Skua (Stercorarius antarcticus)
  66. Sabine Gull (Xema sabini)
  67. Grey-headed Gull (Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus)
  68. Hartlaub’s Gull (Chroicocephalus hartlaubii)
  69. Kelp Gull (Larus dominicanus)
  70. Damara Tern (Sternula balaenarum)
  71. Common Tern (Sterna hirundo)
  72. Sandwich Tern (Thalasseus sandvicensis)
  73. Great Crested Tern (Thalasseus bergii)
  74. Caspian Tern (Hydroprogne caspia)
  75. Whiskered Tern (Chlydonias hybridus)
  76. African Penguin (Spheniscus demersus)
  77. Shy Albatross (Thalassarche cauta)
  78. Black-browed Albatross (Thalassarche melanophris)
  79. Atlantic Yellow-nosed Albatross (Thalassarche chlororhynchos)
  80. Indian Yellow-nosed Albatross (Thalassarche carteri)
  81. Wilson’s Petrel (Oceanites oceanicus)
  82. European Storm Petrel (Hydrobates pelagicus)
  83. Southern Giant Petrel (Macronectes giganteus)
  84. Northern Giant Petrel (Macronectes carteri)
  85. Cape Petrel (Daption capensis)
  86. White-chinned Petrel (Procellaria aequinoctalis)
  87. Great Shearwater (Puffinus gravis)
  88. Sooty Shearwater (Ardenna grisea)
  89. Black Stork (Ciconia nigra)
  90. White Stork (Ciconia ciconia)
  91. Cape Gannet (Morus capensis)
  92. African Darter (Anhinga rufa)
  93. Long-tailed Cormorant (Microcarbo africanus)
  94. Crowned Cormorant (Microcarbo coronatus)
  95. White-breasted Cormorant (Phalacrocorax lucidus)
  96. Bank Cormorant (Phalacrocorax neglectus)
  97. Cape Cormorant (Phalacrocorax capensis)
  98. Great White Pelican (Pelecanus onocratus)
  99. Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea)
  100. Black-headed Heron (Ardea melanocephala)
  101. Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea)
  102. Little Egret (Egretta garzetta)
  103. Western Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis)
  104. Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus)
  105. African Sacred Ibis (Threskiornis aethiopicus)
  106. Hadada Ibis (Bostrychia hagedash)
  107. African Spoonbill (Platalea alba)
  108. Secretarybird (Sagittarius serpentarius)
  109. Black-winged Kite (Elanus caeruleus)
  110. African Harrier-Hawk (Polyboroides typus)
  111. Cape Griffon (Gyps cropotheres)
  112. Martial Eagle (Polemaetus bellicosus)
  113. Booted Eagle (Aquila pennata)
  114. Pale Chanting Goshawk (Melierax canorus)
  115. African Marsh Harrier (Circus ranivorus)
  116. Black Harrier (Circus maurus)
  117. Rufous-breasted Sparrowhawk (Accipiter rufiventris)
  118. Black Sparrowhawk (Accipiter melanoleucos)
  119. Yellow-billed Kite (Milvus aegyptius)
  120. African Fish Eagle (Haaliaetus vocifer)
  121. Jackal Buzzard (Buteo rufofuscus)
  122. Western Barn Owl (Tyto alba)
  123. Spotted Eagle Owl (Bubo africanus)
  124. Speckled Mousebird (Colius striatus)
  125. White-backed Mousebird (Colius colius)
  126. Red-faced Mousebird (Urocolius indicus)
  127. African Hoopoe (Upupa africana)
  128. Malachite Kingfisher (Corythornis cristatus)
  129. Brown-hooded Kingfisher (Halcyon albiventris)
  130. Pied Kingfisher (Ceryle rudis)
  131. European Bee-eater (Merops apiaster)
  132. Pied Barbet (Tricholaema leucomelas)
  133. Lesser Honeyguide (Indicator minor)
  134. Rock Kestrel (Falco rupicolus)
  135. Lanner Falcon (Falco biarmicus)
  136. Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus)
  137. Cape Batis (Batis capensis)
  138. Southern Tchagra (Tchagra tchagra)
  139. Southern Boubou (Laniarius ferrugineus)
  140. Bokmakierie (Telophorus zeylonus)
  141. Fork-tailed Drongo (Dricurus adsimilis)
  142. African Paradise-Flycatcher (Tersiphone viridis)
  143. Southern Fiscal (Lanius collaris)
  144. Cape Crow (Corvus capensis)
  145. Pied Crow (Corvus albus)
  146. White-necked Raven (Corvus albicollis)
  147. Cape Rockjumper (Chaetops frenatus)
  148. Fairy Flycatcher (Stenostira scita)
  149. Grey Tit (Melaniparus afer)
  150. Cape Penduline Tit (Anthoscopus minutus)
  151. Spike-heeled Lark (Chersomanes albofasciata)
  152. Karoo Long-billed Lark (Certhilauda subcoronata)
  153. Agulhas Long-billed Lark (Certhilauda brevirostris)
  154. Grey-backed Sparrow-Lark (Eremopteryx verticalis)
  155. Karoo Lark (Calendulauda albescens)
  156. Cape Clapped Lark (Mirafra apiata)
  157. Red-capped Lark (Calandrella cinerea)
  158. Large-billed Lark (Galerida magnirostris)
  159. Cape Grassbird (Sphenoeacus afer)
  160. Namaqua Warbler (Phragmacia substriata)
  161. Bar-throated Apalis (Apalis thoracica)
  162. Karoo Prinia (Prinia muculosa)
  163. Rufous-eared Warbler (Malcorus pectoralis)
  164. Grey-backed Cisticola (Cisticola subruficapilla)
  165. Levaillant’s Cisticola (Cisticola tinniens)
  166. Piping Cisticola (Cisticola fulvicapilla)
  167. Zitting Cisticola (Cisticola juncidis)
  168. Cloud Cisticola (Cisticola textrix)
  169. Common Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus scirpaceus)
  170. Lesser Swamp Warbler (Bradipterus baboelaca)
  171. Plain Martin (Riparia paludicola)
  172. Banded Martin (Neophedina cincta)
  173. Rock Martin (Ptyonoprogne fuligula)
  174. Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica)
  175. White-throated Swallow (Hirundo albigularis)
  176. Pearl-breasted Swallow (Hirundo dimidiata)
  177. Greater Stripped Swallow (Cecropis cucullata)
  178. Black Saw-wing (Psalidoprocne pristoptera)
  179. Sombre Greenbul (Andropadus importunus)
  180. Cape Bulbul (Pycnonotus capensis)
  181. Cape White-eye (Zosterops capensis)
  182. Common Starling (Sturnus vulgaris)
  183. Red-winged Starling (Onychognathus morio)
  184. African Pied Starling (Lamprotornis bicolor)
  185. Black-bellied Starling (Notopholia corusca)
  186. Olive Thrush (Turdus olivaceus)
  187. African Dusky Flycatcher (Muscicapa adusta)
  188. Fiscal Flycatcher (Melaenornis silens)
  189. Karoo Scrub-Robin (Cercotrychas coryphoeus)
  190. Cape Robin Chat (Cossypha caffra)
  191. Cape Rock Thrush (Monticola rupestris)
  192. African Stonechat (Saxicola torquatus)
  193. Sickle-winged Chat (Emarginata sinuata)
  194. Karoo Chat (Emarginata tractac)
  195. Southern Anteater Chat (Myrmecocichla formicovora)
  196. Mountain Wheatear (Myrmecocichla monticola)
  197. Capped Wheatear (Oenanthe pileata)
  198. Familiar Chat (Oenanthe familiaris)
  199. Cape Sugarbird (Promerops cafer)
  200. Malachite Sunbird (Nectarinia famosa)
  201. Orange-breasted Sunbird (Anthobaphes violacea)
  202. Amethyst Sunbird (Chalcomitra amethystina)
  203. Southern Double-banded Sunbird (Cinnyris chalibaeus)
  204. Greater Double-banded Sunbird (Cinnyris afer)
  205. Cape Weaver (Ploceus capensis)
  206. Southern Masked Weaver (Ploceus venatus)
  207. Red-billed Quelea (Quelea quelea)
  208. Southern Red Bishop (Euplectes orix)
  209. Yellow Bishop (Euplectes capensis)
  210. Swee Waxbill (Coccphygia melanotis)
  211. Common Waxbill (Estrilda astrild)
  212. Pin-tailed Whydah (Vidua macroura)
  213. House Sparrow (Passer domesticus)
  214. Cape Sparrow (melanurus)
  215. Southern Grey-headed Sparrow (Passer diffusus)
  216. Cape Wagtail (Motacilla capensis)
  217. African Pipit (Anthus cinnamomeus)
  218. Nicholson’s Pipit (Anthus nicholsoni)
  219. Plain-backed Pipit (Anthus leucophrys)
  220. Orange-throated Longclaw (Macronyx capensis)
  221. Common Chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs)
  222. Forest Canary (Crithagra scotops)
  223. Brimstone Canary (Crithagra sulphurata)
  224. Yellow Canary (Crithagra flaviventris)
  225. White-throated Canary (Crithagra albogularis)
  226. Protea Canary (Crithagra leucoptera)
  227. Streaky-headed Canary (Crithagra gularis)
  228. Cape Siskin (Crithagra totta)
  229. Cape Canary (Serinus canicollis)
  230. Cape Bunting (Emberiza capensis)

LLISTA DE MAMÍFERS VISTOS AL TOUR

  1. Cape Hyrax (Procavia capensis)
  2. Chacma Baboon (Papio ursinus)
  3. Cape Dune Blesmols (Bathyergus suillus)
  4. Grey Squirrel (Sciurus caroliensis)
  5. Scrub Hare (Lepus saxatilis)
  6. Four-stripped Grass Mole (Rhapdomis pumilio)
  7. Southern Right Whale (Eubalaena australis)
  8. Humpback Whale (Megaptera novaeangliae)
  9. Caracal (Felis caracal)
  10. Yellow Mongoose (Cynictis penicillata)
  11. Cape Grey Mongoose (Herpestes pulverulentus)
  12. Common Slender Mongoose (Herpestes sanguineus)
  13. African Clawless Otter (Aonyx capensis)
  14. Cape Fur Seal (Arctophalus pusilla)
  15. Cape Mountain Zebra (Equus zebra)
  16. Red Hartebeest (Alcephalus busephalus)
  17. Bontebok (Damaliscus dorcas dorcas)
  18. Springbok (Antidorcas marsupialis)
  19. Cape Grysbok (Raphicerus melanotis)
  20. Eland (Taurotragus oryx)
  21. Grey Rhebok (Pelea capreolus)

LLISTA DE RÈPTILS VISTES AL TOUR

  1. Puff Adder (Bitis arietans)
  2. Southern Rock Agama (Agama atra)

Oman Birding Tour 2024 Tour Report

  • Dates: From January 14th to 24th, 2024
  • Tour participants: 4
  • Number of species seen: 217
  • Tour leader: Carles Oliver

All images in this trip report by Carles Oliver unless otherwise specified. All rights reserved.

Overview: 8th issue of our tour in Oman! Step by step, this wonderful country is becoming one of our classic destinations. Once more, our guests have enjoyed excellent views in all main targets including the near-endemics Arabian Grosbeak, Jouanin’s Petrel, Yemen Serin, Socotra Cormorant and Arabian Eagle Owl along with a long list of specialties including Crab Plover, Hypocolius, Arabian Warbler, Persian Shearwater, Palla’s Gull, Cotton Pygmy Goose, Hume’s Wheatear, Desert Owl, Rose-coloured Starling and Steppe Eagle. The weather has been stable and slightly warmer than in previous trips. We had a couple of windy days in the South, but with no major disturbance in our birding time. The number of ducks this year was high and well assorted, but the number of raptors was not as bright as in other years. Once more, the tour was fullfilled with scarcities and rarities. Beyond Blyth’s Reed Warbler & Lesser Whistling Ducks, we had to emphasise the self found Grey-headed Swamphen, Semicollared Flycatcher, Amur Wagtail (3rd for Oman) and Ashy Drongo (4th for Oman).

Day 1. During this day all tour participants had nocturnal flights to Muscat arriving in Oman early in the morning. This is a bit unusual, since there is normally a flight combination that allow us to arrive to Oman during the evening. This time, however, it was not possible.

Day 2. After assembling in the airport we enjoyed a small briefing while collecting the car. From there, we covered the short distance from the airport and the first birding spot of the trip. We invested 40 minutes in a lovely wetland in the sea side. Here we had a number of common waders but also some scarce species including Tibetan (formerly Lesser) Sand Plovers, 3 Marsh Sandpipers, Ruffs and several Little Stints. Here we also got the first Citrine Wagtails of the tour as well as Isabelline Shrike, Arabian Bee-eater, 7 Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouses flying over, Osprey and the only one Black-winged Kite of the trip.

From here we went to visit the small but always productive Al Ansab Lagoons, where we enjoyed Northern Shovelers, White-cheeked Bulbuls, Delicate Prinia, Grey Francolin and close views on Temminck’s Stint including extremely close views on this species and Little Stint while feeding side by side, allowing to go through the details that allow to tell them apart. The very first Indian Pond Heron of the trip showed up also here, and a few minutes later we also connected with 1 Clamorous Reed Warbler while it was climbing the reeds. A small channel beside the lagoons provided the first surprise of the trip, a wonderful Grey-headed Swamphen, a truly scarcity in the country!

Before our lunch stop, we still had time to check a last location. This time we chose a river mouth, where we had a good selection of waders, gulls and terns. While driving, a pair of laybys allowed us great shots on the very common Red-wattled Lapwings. Once at place, we had both Greater & Lesser Sand Plovers, Ruddy Turnstones, Sanderlings, Whimbrels and Bar-tailed Godwits but also the first of many Sooty Gulls & Greater Crested Terns along with Common, Caspian, Whiskered and Little Terns. As interesting, here we got a nice flock of 4 Common Gulls, a scarce wintering species in Oman.

After lunch, we still had time to check another river mouth, where we were delighted with great views on Delicate Prinia, Indian Rollers, Common Kingfisher and the 7 Squacco Herons.

We went to end the day in Al Qurm Park, where we had great views on all 3 species of Bulbuls living in the area: White-spectacled, White-cheeked and the alien Red-vented. Here we also had some Citrine Wagtails, although always mobile, and a wonderful Jack Snipe that provided great views in low, short flights as it was moving along with 3 Common Snipes and, at least, 2 Pin-tailed Snipes.

Many other species were seen here, including Clamorous Reed Warbler, Common Chiffchaff, Osprey, Eurasian Teals and a juvenile Purple Heron.

Back to the beach, we were lucky to connect again with several Steppe & Heuglin’s Gulls as well as some Caspian Gulls, and we were delighted to see a Palla’s Gull walking on its own on the beach. Unfortunately, we bird was moved before we could arrive close enough to take good pictures..

Red-wattled Lapwing (Vanellus indicus), a fairly common wader in Northern Oman.
Clamorous Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus stentoreous) in Al Ansab Lagoons.
Arabian Bee-eater (Merops cyanophrys), lives in small numbers along the coast in Oman.
Left to right: Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus), Greater Sand Plover (Charadrius leschenaultii) & Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres) around Muscat.
Grey Francolin (Ortygornis pondicerianus) in a lovely setting.
Indian Roller (Coracias benghalensis), a common specialty in the Omani winters.

Day 3. Leaving Muscat behind us, this day we drove up to the Al Harar Mountains in search of some specialties. Unfortunately, it was a very windy day and our time there was decimated by the weather conditions. Still, a pair of morning walks in the top of the mountains allowed us to enjoy 1 Arabian Red Fox, a very attractive Eastern Black Redstart, 4 Hume’s Wheatears and 2 Persian Wheatears. But beyond this, we got very little. By the end of the morning we came down to the valley and, once sheltered from the wind, we scanned some large trees. It was almost before getting out of the car that we connected with a “not-that-elusive” Eastern Orphean Warbler and a further exploration of the trees around produced good views on 3 Plain Leaf Warblers and 1 female Blue Rock Thrush feeding on the ground.

After a glorious lunch in a Turkish restaurant we explored some of the wonderful gorges nearby Nizwa. Here we had more views on Plain Leaf Warblers and Hume’s Wheatears but also 2 Desert Larks feeding on the wady plus the only Lapped-faced Vulture of the trip, that unfortunately was too fast for a proper photo. Our evening exploring the gorge extended clearly beyond sunset, hoping to connect with the extremely rare Omani Owl. But the wind was not in our side and a very light sunset brise soon became a quite strong wind that made nearly impossible any proper owling.

Back to the accommodation, we ended the day with a great dinner by the swimming pool of our hotel.

The very attractive Hume’s Wheatear (Oenanthe albonigra) on its habitat.
Lesser Whitethroat (Curruca curruca), the commonest bush warbler in Oman.
The impressive landscape of the Al Harar Mounts.

Day 4. Our fabolous transfer to Salalah started with an early breakfast in our accommodation. Once the car was packed we started moving, and we had our first birding stop only 20 minutes away from the accommodation. Here, in a lovely plain rich in scrubs and thornbush, we went for a stroll and we were soon contacting with a flock of 6 Arabian Babblers that showed really well, allowing us to taking multiple images as they were moving along the stream. The ambient was fresh, and despite the sun a thin jacket was welcome. Taking advantage of this, it was a nice birding activity, and the Babblers were very restless and moving fast so we had to be light in order to follow them!

Once everybody in the group was happy with the views, we kept walking through the plain. Purple Sunbirds and Lesser Whitethroats were common, and we also got good views on Persian Wheatears. 2 Tawny Pipits showed very well but, after all, the area looked like a bit empty when compared with other visits, and the most remarkable bird beyond the Babblers was a very showy Common Whitethroat of the very dark icterops race.

Back to the cars, we faced some hours of solid driving with some service stops in our way. Brown-necked Ravens and random Greater Hoopoe Larks crossing the road were the only distractions while crossing the always impressive Empty Quarter.

For lunch, we stopped in one of the most traditional stops in this way: the abandoned gardens of the Qitbit Hotel. We did not have much time, but once more this stop proved to be very productive. As soon as we step out of the car, a nice Pied Wheatear appeared in front of us, allowing us wonderful views. Promising! We ate our packed lunches and had a small stroll around, the sun was hitting hard and it was little movement, but we were lucky enough to find a nice Red-breasted Flycatcher feeding around a dense thicket. Happy with the views on both birds, we went back to the car only distracted with the calls of a couple of Siberian Chiffchaffs and Abyssinian White-eyes. From here, we drove the short distance between our lunch spot and some sewage farms in the middle of the desert.

Arabian Babblers (Turdoides squamiceps), in the typical acacia woodland that favours.
Persian Wheatear (formerly Red-tailed Wheatear) is, in my opinion, the most elegant bird within its family.
Brown-necked Raven (Corvus ruficollis) is a common sight in most of Oman.
Pied Wheatear (Oenanthe pleschanka), an uncommon winter visitor in Oman.

When we arrived it was already mid afternoon, and the fields were filled with insectivores. We had several Isabelline & Desert Wheatears, but also good looks on Crested Larks. Even before getting inside the fields, a majestic male 2nd year Pallid Harrier flew right in front of our vehicle, providing the group with incredible views. Moreover, the bird decided to stop really close to us, and we all enjoyed the bird manoeuvring against the brise. At the same time, up to 5 Greater Hoopoe Larks were feeding around us, some of them even doing small display-like flights! It is always wonderful to see this large Larks and go through the details of their delicate plomage, often difficult to see with the very strong light of the desert.

Only a minute later, 4 Cream-coloured Coursers came to land close to us. Not happy with that, some of them started feeding around, moving closer and closer as they looked for invertebrates in the hard desert soil.

The stop was already a big success, but we decided to move a bit to the East to explore a particular spot that has been really productive several times before. There, we had the firsts Levant Grey Shrike (the aucheri race of Great Grey Shrike) and Namaqua Doves of the trip, plus a female Montagu’s Harrier circling in the sky while hundreds of White Storks were feeding on the recently harvested fields. Tens of Common Kestrels were feeding there, and we were surprised to pick up a Lesser Kestrel flying and hunting in the middle of such a mess of small falcons! Lesser Kestrel is not a particularly common Falcon in Oman during winter, and it was a real bonus for the trip!

At some point, small flocks of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouses started moving from the desert around the fields, and a small flock was about to stop right in front of us. Unfortunately, a Kestrel moved them away. A bit more of scanning produced a lovely Steppe Grey Shrike and two more Pallid Harriers before living the farms and drive the very last hour of the transfer, arriving to our accommodation a bit after sunset.

Greater Hoopoe-Lark (Alaemon alaudipes) was the very first bird that we saw when arrived to the farms!
Male 1st winter Pallid Harrier (Circus macrourus) that came to say hello to our group!
Isabelline Wheatear (Onenathe isabellinus) is the probably the commonest Wheatear in Southern Oman.
Cream-coloured Coursers (Cursorior cursor) have become commoner in the last years.
Male 2nd year Pallid Harrier (Circus macrourus). One of the 5 Pallid Harriers seen during the trip.
There were hundreds of Black-crowned Sparrow-Larks (Eremopterix nigriceps) in the desert farms.
White Stork (Ciconia ciconia) has moved from a big rarity to a common view in Southern Oman in only 3 years!

Day 5. Our first morning in Dhofar was devoted to explore one of the most productive spots in the country. Ayn Hamran is a shining, delightful place where to enjoy a number of the most look-after specialties in Oman, and we were directly there after enjoying a very nice breakfast in our accommodation. The morning was a bit windy, and the bird activity looked like low. Still, a few metres of walk was enough to contact with the first of many Cinnamon-breasted Buntings, African Silverbills, Abyssian White-eyes, Arabian Sunbirds, Rüppell’s Weavers and African Paradise Flycatchers. It didn’t take long before we found our first Arabian Warbler. It was the tour participant Francesc who pointed out the bird, that was feeding in a medium size thornbush. All the group enjoyed great views. Graceful Prinias were also evident, and a Turkestan Shrike catching a good morning light was also a nice adding to our list. A few yards away, a pair of showy Blackstarts were waiting for us, and a superb Black-crowned Tchagra was having a sunbath next to them. Meantime, a pair of Palestine Sunbirds were feeding nearby, and a Long-billed Pipit was doing its thing, walking only a few metres in front of our group.

We headed towards the vehicles to explore the plain before having lunch, but in the way a Chinese (Amur) White Wagtail showed up, moving along with a White Wagtail. I looked behind me but I was alone! No one of the clients followed me, as they were all distracted by the many attractive birds along the Ayn. Unfortunately, the bird moved away and all our efforts to relocate the bird were unsuccessful. It was a great sight, the 3rd record for Oman!

We combined the area with the surrounding plane, where we only found 2 Greater Short-toed Larks, several Black-crowneds Sparrow-Larks and the first Bonelli’s Eagle of the trip.

Back to Ayn Hamran we still had some more exploration, and our efforts were granted with lovely views on 2 Red-breasted Flycatchers, 1 Semicollared Flycatcher, 4 gorgeous Bruce’s Green Pigeons and good views on a very restless Blyth’s Reed Wabler, another rarity for the country that has been appearing in the same tree during the last 3 years!!

Finally we left Ayn Hamran after enjoying 7+ Arabian Warblers and 5+ Black-crowned Tchagras. Still, there were few birds of prey moving, and we only had 1 Short-toed Snake Eagle during our time there. After some relax and a coffee stop we drove down to the coast to spend some time in a lovely wetland. But first, we had a fast stop to enjoy some of the Spotted Thick-knees that live inside Salalah. As always, this tame thick-knees provided the group with excellent views and our stop was completed by a lovely sight on 5 Crested Honey Buzzards, 1 Greater Spotted Eagle and 1 Booted Eagle.

Arabian Warbler (Curruca leucomelaena) is likely to provide views like this! Note the tiny spider web in the auricular of the bird.
African Silverbill (Euodice cantans), a common sight in Southern Oman.
Cinnamon-breasted Bunting (Emberiza tahapisi) is the commonest passerine around the Dhofar.
Long-billed Pipit (Anthus similis) provided also really close views to the group!
No matter how many you have seen, an African Paradise Flycatcher (Tersphone viridis) is always a wonderful thing to watch!
The always tame Blackstart (Oenanthe melanura) is also a very sought-after species for all the tour participants!
Amur (Chinese) Wagtail (Motacilla alba leucopsis) was one of the surprises of the tour. 3rd record for Oman, if accepted.
Red-breasted Flycatcher (Ficedula parva)
Spotted Thick-knee (Buthinus capensis) close-up. A urban delicatessen in Salalah. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.
Crested Honey Buzzard (Pernis ptilorhynchus) has a small overwintering population in palm groves around Salalah.

Once in the wetland, we had a very variety of waterfowl including 3 Intermediate Egrets (recently split into 3 different species. The wintering population ocuring in Arabia is considered to be Middle Egret), 1 Purple Heron, several Squacco Heron, 1 Indian Pond Heron, Little Egrets along with Shovelers, Wigeons, 2 Garganeys, Eurasian Teals, Pintails and Common Pochards but the most interesting ducks in this stop were 7 Greater White-fronted Geese but, especially, the flock of 6 Cotton Pygmy Geese feeding in the open water along with Eurasian Moorhens + Red-knobbed & Eurasian Coots. This is one of the few places where to find this Asian species in Arabia, and this winter this was the only flock in the whole of Oman. This time there were not many waders, but along with the 400+ Glossy Ibises we had 3 Wood Sandpipers, 1 Marsh Sandpiper, Little Stints, Common Snipes, a single Black-tailed Godwit, some Ruffs, Temmincks Stint and the very common Black-necked Stilts. In the reeds we were surprised to find a Great Reed Warbler, an uncommon winter visitor and a new scarcity to add to our growing list.

We were next to the sea, and several Gulls and Terns were resting on the sand, some of them allowing extremely close views. Heuglin’s Gulls were dominant among the large gulls, with only a few Steppe Gulls here, while Slender-billed Gull was, as in most of the country, the commonest small gull. Some Sooty & Black-headed Gulls were also present. Caspian Terns were evident and offered magnificent views, and the presence of some Lesser Crested & Greater Crested Terns, an excellent way to compare shapes and colours between all of them. Beyond, we still had Whiskered & Little Terns + the very first Gull-billed & White-winged Black Terns of the trip.

The very last stop of this magical day was devoted to explore a different Ayn (the local name for the uphilled, streamed valleys). It was already a bit late in the evening, and we had little birding action beyond a couple of Greenshanks. But right after sunset everything changed and several Arabian Scops Owls started singing around us. It took us 15 minutes to get into one of them, but we got excellent views! But, even as we were enjoying the tiny scops owl, a bigger owl was already singing really close. We moved only 200 metres away, and only 2 minutes later a majestic Arabian Eagle Owl landed in the top of a tree to offered us a gorgeous view that lasted for 5 minutes! Finally, a second Arabian Eagle Owl called up in the slope, and our Owl decided to go further up in search of its partner. Still excited about this great sight, when the call of a Barn Owl just came from the valley mixing with the calls of a small flock of Night Herons. It was obvious that the night was good for owls, so we tried a improved view on Arabian Scops Owl and less than five minutes later we got a second bird singing from inside a tree!

Very happy after such a great success, we went down to our accommodation, where another excellent dinner was waiting for us!

Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleuca) by a swamp. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.
Caspian Tern (Hydroprogne caspia) in the superb afternoon light typical in Oman. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.
Arabian Scops Owl (Otus pamelae) singing high from a tree.
Arabian Eagle Owl (Bubo milesi), once again great views in this recent split. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.

Dia 6. Still recovering from the excellent previous day, we spent the first hour of the day exploring one of the best streams in the Dhofar. Here, lovely nenufars create the perfect conditions for a number of secretive species living in the reedbeds. The place was as great as always, and within 1 hour we got 7 Bluethroats, 2 Eastern Olivaceous Warblers, 7 Bruce’s Green Pigeons, heard White-breasted Waterhen, and had some raptors including Lanner Falcon, Short-toed Snake Eagle, Greater Spotted Eagle circling with a wonderful male Pallid Harrier, plus lovely adult Night Heron feeding on a very large fish (probably too big) , the only Eurasian Reed Warbler of the trip, 4 Citrine Wagtails and heard Yellow/Little Bittern.

From here we covered the short distance to a different Ayn, and even before arriving to the place, a gorgeous male Arabian Grosbeak was waiting for us, singing from the top of a small Acacia tree. During the next half an hour we got a number of different sights as we followed the bird, that was feeding in the trees along the Ayn. It was, once again, a wonderful experience to find and watch for so long such a scarce bird, and all the group enjoyed walk-away views before being distracted by close Isabelline Shrikes, Arabian Warblers and Blackstarts.

Arabian Grosbeak (Rhynchostruthus percivali), a very scarce inhabitant of the Dhoffar deciduous woodlands. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.
Our 20 minutes long sight allowed us to see some interesting details, like when came down to feed on this euphorbia.

From here, we started climbing up to explore the Dhoffar uplands. It is always a magnificent experience to be up there, and our way to the top was constantly interrumped by Eastern Imperian & Steppe Eagles but also by Short-toed Snake Eagles and Peregrine Falcon and the locally common Arabian Wheatears, Fan-tailed Raven and Arabian Sunbirds (a recent split from Shining Sunbird). For lunch, we chose a typical stop with some seats and shade (no fancy places this time), and after our packed lunches a short walk allowed to connect with 4 Yemen Serins that were feeding on the ground along with Cinnamon-breasted Buntings. They were, once again, really easy to find (especially when it is a bird that can be very hard to find out!). A further walk didn’t produce much beyond several Pale Rock Martins and distant views on Tristam’s Starlings and Bonelli’s Eagle.

Even higher, we arrived to an area of massive cliffs. This is one of the best places to enjoy Arabian Wheatears, and they were all around, even nesting in the hotel located right in the top. From here we were in search of the Verreaux’s Eagles nesting in the area, but they reluctant to show this time. For instance, we got 3 Long-legged Buzzards, Blue Rock Thrush and several Tristam’s Starlings. But the best were the 4 Arabian Partridges that Tanit found in the cliffs! A great spot in a species that has proof to be difficult to find in my last visits to this country.

Yemen Serin (Crithagra menachensis), a very shy near-endemic, that showed up superbly. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.
The rather small Arabian Wheatear (Oenanthe lugentoides) was really common this winter in the highlands. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.
Female Palestine Sunbird (Cinnyris osea) close up in the Dhofar highlands.
Arabian Partridge (Alectoris melanocephala) overwatching the desert.
Bonelli’s Eagle (Aquila fasciata) patrolling its territory.
Short-toed Snake Eagle (Circaetus gallicus), one of the very superb sights during the trip.
Steppe Eagle (Aquila nipalensis), full adult. Note the distinctive “joker” smile.
Eastern Imperial Eagle (Aquila heliaca).

By the time we left to highlands it was mid afternoon, and the very last stop of the day was for some farms around Salalah. Here, Crested Larks looked all around but also a number of Singing Bush Larks, first singing high up but later providing the group with wonderful views as they were singing from the walls around. Here we also had Booted Eagle, 2 Siberian Stonechats, 2 Marsh Harriers, several Prinias and 17 Whiskered Tern in a lovely feeding flock. There were tens of Western Yellow Wagtails, but it looked like little else. But suddenly 2 adults Rose-coloured Starlings flew over our group, going to stop in a distant farm. We all jumped into the vehicles and drove there, and in the next 10 minutes we enjoyed great views on the Starlings but also 2 Bluethroats and 1 Red-throated Pipit calling in flight! At sunset, we counted 17 Little Ringed Plovers feeding in the plain around us.

This very tame Singing Bush Lark (Mirafra cantillans) allowed us amazing views.
Rose-coloured Starling (Pastor roseus) was a rather unexpected bird in our trip!
A very interesting male Siberian Stonechat (Saxicola maurus)

Dia 7. This day we went for an offshore South of Salalah. After a pair of days with strong winds, today the sea was really plain, almost like an endless lake. As soon as leaving the small harbour we had the first of many Persian Shearwaters moving North in small flocks of 2-3 birds. Both Sooty and Heuglin’s Gull were common, and their acrobatic flight was often the sign for a Loggerhead or an Olive Ridley Sea Turtle to be breathing in the surface. Moving a few miles away from the coast, we got a small flock of Terns feeding, and were lucky to discover a 1st winter Bridled Tern feeding along with 3 Common Terns. Masked Boobies were commoner than in other offshores, including a wonderful bird that allowed us great images both in flight and on the surface of the sea. Persian Shearwater came in and out as we were chumming, and a surprising Pomarine Skua appeared as well to try to steal some fish from the common Sooty Gulls! But the main character was still to show, and it took us longer than expected, but we finally got decent views on 1 Jouanin’s Petrel that was flying mid way out from our boat!

Back to the harbour we still had another encounteer with the a mixed pod of Spinner & Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dophins. Back to the harbour, a Hawksbill Sea Turtle came to the surface for a short period of time, a nice adding to the much common Green Sea Turtles around. In the shore, tens of Abdim’s Storks were resting along with a large concentration of Gulls.

One of many Red-necked Phalaropes (Phalaropus lobatus) seen during our offshore
Always amazing, Masked Boobies (Sula dactylara) stole the show for us!
One of the many Persian Shearwater (Puffinus persicus) see in our offshore.
1st winter Sooty Gull (Ichthyaetus hemprichii), the commonest gull around.
Abdim’s Storks (Ciconia abdimii) in lovely morning light with Sooty Gulls.

After enjoying a good coffee & tea stop, we drove back to the Dhofar highlands, to have our picnic lunches in the impressive cliffs of the areas, including a short stop to see the always impressive Baobabs of the Dhofar, the Northernmost baobabs in the world!

Our lunch time in the wonderful cliffs of the Dhofar provided us great views on a Striolated Bunting, a species that had escaped from us in the northern Al Harar Mounts.

From the highlands we were back to the Southern part of the city, where a stop on the Raysut River mouth is always mandatory. Here, we counted 17 Terek’s Sandpiper just arrived to the place! Surprisingly, the number of plovers was low, but we got 1 Steppe Eagle on the ground along with 8 Ospreys, several Gulls (including a superb Palla’s Gull), 1 Pin-tailed Snipe moving along 4 Common Snipes, 14 Eurasian Spoonbills, 2 Citrine Wagtails, the only 2 Gadwalls of the trip (male and female), Garganeys, Wigeons, Pintails and a single Greater White-fronted Goose. Here we also got the first Socotra Cormorants of the trip and a good array of waders including Temminck’s & Little Stints, Grey Plovers, Black & Bar-tailed Godwits, the always impressive Siberian race of Eurasian Curlew + Whimbrels, Ruffs, Sanderlings, Greenshanks, Oystercatchers, 3 Curlew Sandpipers and the only Great Knot of the trip.

Checking the Terns resting on the beach we found 7 species: Common, Little, Caspian, Lesser Crested, Greater Crested Tern, Gull-billed & Whiskered. A funny Pheasant-tailed Jacana feeding in beach was an interesting and rather unexpected adding!

From here, a second stop was made to explore a different wetland, and the most interesting birds there were 6 Red-knobbed Coots, 2 Pheasant-tailed Jacana and some flocks of Socotra Cormorants moving South.

The very last of the day was devoted to Desert Owl, a very scarce and still unknown species, especially in Oman, where it was discovered for the first time only in 2014. Our wait until sunset was fast rewarded with 2 Desert Owls calling not far from our position, and a bit more of wait was necessary until 1 of them decided to come to its usual song rock, offering the group an unforgettable sight with the male singing only 20 metres away from us while the female was still singing higher in the slope. At the end, we saw both individuals singing in a phenomenal chorus that lasted as one of the most superb sights of the trip!!

Part of the group admiring the baobabs.
Small flock of Eurasian Spoonbills (Platalea leucorodia) with some waders.
Palla’s Gull (Ichthyaetus ichthyaetus) along with House Crows, Steppe Gulls, Flamingoes and Black-necked Stilt.
Pheasant-tailed Jacanas (Hydrophaisanus chirurgus) were stating to develop their long, pheasant-like tails.
We were extremely lucky with Desert Owls (Strix hadorami) this year. The male landed a few metres away from us, while the female was singing higher in the small cliff.

Carles Oliver

Dia 8. Today was a day to enjoy the desert and some nice wetlands. After the glorious end of the previous day, we left the coastal plain to get into the desert. After a short transfer, we arrived to the small oasis that hosts the only Hypocolius overwintering population in Oman. A first walk around the area revealed some Nile Valley Sunbirds, including a nice male, were feeding along with Common Chiffchaffs and Lesser Whitethroats (hadorami race) A lovely flock of Sand Partridges running up and down in the oasis was a lovely entertainment for us, as was a pair of confiding Desert Larks. Beyond this, the area was quiet, and it took us some time to find the first Hypocolius. A distant call put us in the way, and Carmine found a male resting low in a bush. During the next 15 minutes we watched the bird alternatively resting and feeding in a tiny bush, but we always respected the distance. Another 20 minutes were necessary for the bird to move, just in time for a small group of Polish birdwatchers to arrive to the oasis and directly connect with the bird thanks to our indications.

Finally we left, with the bird still resting inside the bush. But we didn’t go far before large flocks of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouses flew above us in search of water. The bush around had to very nice Asian Desert Warblers that were very welcome by the group, and Levant Grey Shrike, Desert Wheatear and very tame pair of Blackstarts completed the list of passerines around. Scanning the ground was not difficult to find a nice flock of 27 Crowned Sandgrouses that came to drink water in a tiny pond. As always, a couple of Eastern Imperial Eagles were closely watching the flocks of Sandgrouses..

Hypocolius (Hypocolius ampelinus). This year we found two separate flocks at the typical place. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.
After 9 trips to Oman, this has been the first time to see a Hypocolius feeding on the ground!
Nile Valley Sunbird (Hedydipna metallica) male catching the morning light.
Desert Lark (Ammomanes deserti), always showing its satin-like plomage!
Crowned Sandgrouse (Pterocles coronata) ready to drink water.

After such a good morning, we headed back to Salalah for a good meal and a short midday rest before spending the afternoon in a number of close locations. Out first stop after lunch was in a public park in Salalah. There, we had several Western Yellow Wagtail (including one individual with some characters of Eastern Yellow Wagtail..), 2 Bruce’s Green Pigeon, several Tree Pipits and Hoopoes. From here we drove to Raysut, the location where until a few years ago a massive number of Steppe Eagle used to overwinter. Once in Raysut, we scanned around and we could only find 1 Steppe Eagle, but hundreds of Abdim’s Storks along with White Storks, Red-wattled Lapwings, 2 Spur-winged Lapwings one of the funny hybrid between both species!

Further South, a final stop was made to enjoy a huge flock of hundreds of Socotra Cormorants gathering in the water. Here, we also got nice views on 2 Pheasant-tailed Jacana and 1 European Roller on a road light post.

Socotra Cormorants (Phalacrocorax nigrogularis) gather in large flocks.

Dia 9. This day we felt the wonderful Dhofar area behind to concentrate a bit in other regions of Oman. But before leaving, we still had time to check some farms in the it self, where we saw hundreds of Western Yellow Wagtails and Skylarks we could not specify which species along with Singing Bush Lars, 1 female Western Marsh Harrier and 1 Greater Spotted Eagle. Our next stop to explore some plains with a good population of Arabian Gazelles, and we didn’t have wait long before we found a small herb of 3 followed by two more of this kinda small and endangered gazelle. Here, we also got nice views on both Bonelli’s & Easterm Imperial Eagles and 3 Cape Thick-knees resting by the road. A layby stop produced nice scope views on 2 Striolated Bunting before having some solid driving until our next stop, a small coastal wetland right in the border between Dhofar and Al-Wusta regions.

Here we enjoyed our packed lunches and had nice views on the 4 shy Lesser Whistling Ducks that were found a few days earlier by another group of birdwatchers. Along with the whistling ducks we also got other interesting birds here including 1 Masked Booby, Ruff, Turkestan Shrike, 2 drake Tufted Ducks, small numbers of Wigeons and Garganeys, 1 Osprey and 2 Wood Sandpipers.

We kept driving North during the and had a final stop in another small river mouth. Here, a short walk around proved to be productive again and we had 2 Siberian Chiffchaffs, 2 Tawny Pipits, 2 Palla’s Gulls, 3 Eurasian Spoonbills,1 female Eurasian Sparrowhawk, 1 Sand Martin, Pintails, Wigeons and 7 Greater Flamingoes.

From here we just drove the last miles before arriving to our wonderful accommodation.

Arabian Gazelles (Gazella arabica) climbing up the Dhofar hillsides.
One of many Eastern Imperial Eagles (Aquila heliaca) seen during the trip. There were mostly young birds (like the one in the image), but also some superb adults and 1 very interesting 3rd year bird.
The Frankiscense Trees (Boswellis sp.) dominates the landscape high up in the dry slopes of the Dhofar.
Turkestan (aka Red-tailed) Shrike (Lanius phonicuroides).
Palla’s Gulls (Ichthyaetus ichthyaetus), as superb as always!

Dia 10. After having a nice breakfast in our hotel, we just started moving out of Duqm. A first stop walking around a bushland produced nothing out of a Great Grey Shrike (auchery race) but, before living the city, we decided to check some small gardens. We were just approaching when a Drongo just flew over the van. A Drongo! A Drongo! We park the right there, in a 4 lane road (please note that in Duqm there is no traffic at all!) and jumped out to try to relocate our Drongo. It didn’t take too long as the Drongo was nicely sitting in the top of a small building right in the center of the garden. After several images and trying to have the bird from different angles, it came out clear to be an Ashy Drongo! Only the 4th record for Oman!

Delighted with this bird, we invested some extra 10 minutes in checking other gardens around, and we found Common Sandpiper, 2 Bluethroats (including a very obliging male), Yellow Wagtails and a very tame Little Ringed Plover.

Ashy Drongo (Dicrurus leucophaeus), nice surprise for our group!
Obliging Bluethroat (Luscinia svecica) just by the tarmac.
Little Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius).

From here we moved around Masirah island, were we had hours to check the tydal plains. Unfortunately for us, the tide was stronger than average and the birds were more far away than usual. Still we got nice scope views on 12 Crab Plovers and checking the 1000s of waders we found 2 Marsh Sandpipers along with hundreds of Dunlins, Curlew Sandpipers, Bar-tailed Godwits, some Terek’s Sandpipers, nice Greater Sand Plovers moulting to summer plomage, Gull-billed Terns, Spoonbills, Oystercatchers, Greenshanks, Redshanks, Lesser Sand Plovers, Sanderlings and Kentish Plovers along with Eurasian Curlews, Flamingoes and Western Reef Egrets to name only a few. The area is also excellent to have very close views on some common species including Greater Crested Tern, Caspian Gull and others. This time was not different, and the photographers in the group enjoyed the most!

From one of the view point over the tidal plains, we got the second Pied Wheatear of the trip (a female), but nothing else of interest.

During the afternoon we kept going North with only 2 extra stops. The very first of them was to check a typical place for Asian Koels, and we were lucky to find at least 3 of this very scarce species in Oman. They were a bit active and allowed nice images while resting into the small acacias of a tiny suburb.

The very last stop of the day was devoted to a tiny scrubland in the middle of the dunes. Some years ago we discovered this to be a nice place for Ménétriés’s Warblers, and this time was not different. This is a very skulking species, but only after walking some 100 metres we got a nice male flying away from us. Some patience was required, but at the end the male came out of the vegetation (for some seconds), allowing everybody in the group to have good views on its beautiful salmon breast

A lovely way to end a very surprising day!

Greater Crested Tern (Thalasseus bergii) close up. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.
One of the Crab Plovers (Droma ardeola) during the tour. Unfortunately they were more far away than average.
Greater Flamingoes (Phoenicopterus roseus). Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.
Pied Wheatear (Oenanthe pleschanka)
It was warm, but not for this Sinai Agama (Pseudotrapelus siniatus).
One of 3 Asian Koels (Eudynamys scolopaceus) seen during the afternoon.

Dia 11. Very last transfer of the trip. This day we had only time for a breakfast and transfer to the airport. In our way, we still could enjoy 18 Indian Rollers along the first 50 kilometres of transfer, along with Eurasian Hoopoe and 2 Arabian Bee-eaters. Around the airport we had the very last (and short) stop of the trip, and we had the change for a last view on Red-wattled Lapwings, Lesser Sand Plovers, Little Stints, Dunlins and Curlew Sandpiper.

LIST OF BIRDS SEEN DURING THE TRIP

The list includes the common English and Catalan names + scientific name of all the species:

  1. Arabian Partridge – Perdiu d’Aràbia (Alectoris melanocephala)
  2. Sand Partridge – Perdiu del desert (Ammoperdix heyi)
  3. Grey Francolin – Francolí gris (Francolinus pondicerianus)
  4. Greater White-fronted Goose – Oca riallera grossa (Anser albifrons)
  5. Cotton Pygmy Goose – Oca pigmea asiàtica (Nettapus coromandelianus)
  6. Lesser Whistling Duck – Ànec arbori menut (Dendrocygna javanica)
  7. Mallard – Ànec coll-verd (Anas platyrhynchos)
  8. Eurasian Wigeon – Ànec xiulador (Anas penelope)
  9. Pintail – Ànec cuallarg (Anas acuta)
  10. Eurasian Teal – Xarxet comú (Anas crecca)
  11. Gadwall – Ànec griset (Mareca strepera)
  12. Garganey – Xarrasclet (Spatula querquedula)
  13. Northern Shoveler – Ànec cullerot (Spatura clypeata)
  14. Common Pochard – Morell cap-roig (Aythya ferina)
  15. Tufted Duck – Morell de plomall (Aythya fuligula)
  16. Pallid Swift (Apus pallidus)
  17. Forbes-Watson’s Swift (Apus berliozi)
  18. Asian Koel (Eudyamys scolopaceus)
  19. Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse (Pterocles exustus)
  20. Crowned Sandgrouse (Pterocles coronata)
  21. Feral Dove (Columba livia)
  22. Bruce’s Green Pigeon (Treron waalia)
  23. Eurasian Collared Dove (Streptopelia decaocto)
  24. Laughing Dove (Spilopelia senegalensis)
  25. Namaqua Dove (Oena capensis)
  26. White-breasted Waterhen – Polla pitblanca (Amaurornis phoenicurus) – heard only
  27. Grey-headed Swamphen – Polla blava capgrís (Porphyrio poliocephalus)
  28. Eurasian Moorhen – Polla d’aigua (Gallinula chloropus)
  29. Eurasian Coot – Fotja comuna (Fulica atra)
  30. Red-knobbed Coot – Fotja banyuda (Fulica cristata)
  31. Little Grebe – Cabusset comú (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
  32. Greater Flamingo – Flamenc comú (Phoenicopterus roseus)
  33. Spotted Thick-knee – Torlit pigallat (Burhinus capensis)
  34. Cream-coloured Courser – Corredor saharià (Cursorior cursor)
  35. Eurasian Oystercatcher – Garsa de mar (Haematopus ostralegus)
  36. Crab Plover – Droma (Droma ardeola)
  37. Black-winged Stilt – Cames-llargues (Himantopus himantopus)
  38. Pheasant-tailed Jacana – Jacana cua de faisà (Hydrophaisanus chirurgus)
  39. Red-wattled Lapwing – Fredeluga índia (Vanellus indicus)
  40. Spur-winged Lapwing – Fredeluga d’esperons (Vanellus spinosus)
  41. Grey Plover – Pigre gris (Pluvialis aquatarola)
  42. Common Ringed Plover – Corriol anellat gros (Charadrius hiaticula)
  43. Little Ringed Plover – Corriol anellat petit (Charadrius dubius)
  44. Kentish Plover – Corriol camanegre (Charadrius alexandrinus)
  45. Greater Sand Plover – Corriol de Leschenault (Charadrius leschenaultii)
  46. Tibetan Sand Plover – Corriol de Mongòlia (Anarhynchos atrifons)
  47. Common Snipe – Becadell comú (Gallinago gallinago)
  48. Pin-tailed Snipe – Becadell cua-punxegut (Gallinago stenura)
  49. Jack Snipe – Becadell sord (Lymnocriptes minimus)
  50. Bar-tailed Godwit – Tètol cuabarrat (Limosa lapponica)
  51. Black-tailed Godwit – Tètol cuanegre (Limosa limosa)
  52. Eurasian Whimbrel – Pòlit cantaire (Numenius phaeopus)
  53. Eurasian Curlew – Becut eurasiàtic (Numenius arquata)
  54. Spotted Redshank – Gamba roja pintada (Tringa erythropus)
  55. Common Redshank – Gamba roja comuna (Tringa totanus)
  56. Marsh Sandpiper – Siseta (Tringa stagnatilis)
  57. Greenshank – Gamba verda (Tringa nebularia)
  58. Green Sandpiper – Xivita (Tringa ochropus)
  59. Wood Sandpiper – Valona (Tringa glareola)
  60. Terek’s Sandpiper – Siseta cendrosa (Xenus cinereus)
  61. Common Sandpiper – Xivitona (Actitis hypoleucos)
  62. Ruddy Turnstone – Remena-rocs (Arenaria interpres)
  63. Sanderling – Territ tres-dits (Calidris alba)
  64. Little Stint – Territ menut (Calidris minuta)
  65. Temminck’s Stint – Territ de Temminck (Calidris temminckii)
  66. Dunlin – Territ variant (Calidris alpina)
  67. Curlew Sandpiper – Territ bec-llarg (Calidris ferruginea)
  68. Great Knot – Territ gros siberià (Calidris tenuirostris)
  69. Ruff – Batallaire (Calidris pugnax)
  70. Red-necked Phalarope – Escuraflascons bec-fí (Phalaropus lobatus)
  71. Pomarine Skua – Paràsit cuaample (Stercorarius pomarinus)
  72. Slender-billed Gull – Gavina capblanca (Chroicocephalus genei)
  73. Black-headed Gull – Gavina riallera (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
  74. Heuglin’s Gull (heuglini) & Steppe Gull (barabensis) – Gavià fosc (Larus fuscus)
  75. Caspian Gull – Gavià del Capi (Larus cachinnans)
  76. Common Gull – Gavina cendrosa (Larus canus)
  77. Palla’s Gull – Gavinot capnegre (Ichthyaetus ichthyaetus)
  78. Sooty Gull – Gavià de Hemprich (Ichthyaetus hemprichii)
  79. Caspian Tern – Xatrac gros (Hydroprogne caspia)
  80. Greater Crested Tern – Xatrac reial becgroc (Thalasseus bergii)
  81. Lesser Crested Tern – Xatrac bengalí (Thalasseus bengalensis)
  82. Sandwich Tern – Xatrac bec-llarg (Thalasseus sandvicensis)
  83. Common Tern – Xatrac comú (Sterna hirundo)
  84. Gull-billed Tern – Curroc (Gelochelidon nilotica)
  85. Little Tern – Xatrac menut (Sternula albifrons)
  86. Bridled Tern – Xatrac embridat (Onychoprion anaethetus)
  87. Whiskered Tern – Fumarell carablanc (Chlidonias hybridus)
  88. White-winged Black Tern – Fumarell alablanc (Chlidonias leucopterus)
  89. Persian Shearwater – Baldriga persa (Puffinus persicus)
  90. Jouanin’s Petrel – Petrell de Jouanin (Bulweria fallax)
  91. Abdim’s Stork – Cigonya d’Abdim (Ciconia abdimii)
  92. White Stork – Cigonya blanca (Ciconia ciconia)
  93. Masked Booby – Mascarell enmascarat (Sula dactylara)
  94. Great Cormorant – Corb marí gros (Phalacrocorax carbo)
  95. Socotra Cormorant – Corb marí de Socotra (Phalacrocorax nigrogularis)
  96. Glossy Ibis – Capó reial (Plegadis falcinellus)
  97. Eurasian Spoonbill – Bec-planer eurasiàtic (Platalea leucorodia)
  98. Striated Heron – Martinet estriat (Butorides striata)
  99. Squacco Heron – Martinet ros (Ardeola ralloides)
  100. Indian Pond Heron – Martinet ros de l’Índia (Ardeolla grayii)
  101. Western Cattle Egret – Esplugabous (Bubulcus ibis)
  102. Black-crowned Night Heron – Martinet de nit (Nycticorax nycticorax)
  103. Purple Heron – Agró roig (Ardea purpurea)
  104. Grey Heron – Bernat pescaire (Ardea cinerea)
  105. Great Egret – Agró blanc (Ardea alba)
  106. Intermediate Egret – Martinet intermedi (Ardea intermedia)
  107. Little Egret – Martinet blanc (Egretta garzetta)
  108. Western Reef Egret – Martinet dels esculls (Egretta gularis)
  109. Egyptain Vulture – Aufrany (Neophron percnopterus)
  110. Lappet-faced Vulture – Voltor orellut (Torgos tracheliotos)
  111. Osprey – Àguila pescadora (Pandion haliaetos)
  112. Crested Honey Buzzard – Aligot vesper oriental (Pernis ptilorhynchus)
  113. Greater Spotted Eagle – Àguila cridanera (Clanga clanga)
  114. Steppe Eagle – Àguila d’estepa (Aquila nipalensis)
  115. Eastern Imperial Eagle – Àguila imperial (Aquila heliaca)
  116. Bonelli’s Eagle – Àguila cuabarrada (Aquila fasciata)
  117. Booted Eagle – Àguila calçada (Aquila pennata)
  118. Short-toed Snake Eagle – Àguila marcenca (Circaetus gallicus)
  119. Eurasian Sparrowhawk – Esparver comú (Accipiter nisus)
  120. Black-winged Kite – Elani comú (Elanus caeruleus)
  121. Western Marsh Harrier – Arpella comuna (Circus aeruginosus)
  122. Pallid Harrier – Arpella pàl·lida russa (Circus macrourus)
  123. Montagu’s Harrier – Arpella cendrosa (Circus pygargus)
  124. Long-legged Buzzard – Aligot rogenc (Buteo rufinus)
  125. Arabian Scops Owl – Xot d’Aràbia (Otus pamelae)
  126. Desert Owl – Gamarús del desert (Strix hadorami)
  127. Western Barn Owl – Òliba (Tyto alba) heard only
  128. Arabian Eagle Owl – Duc d’Aràbia (Bubo milesi)
  129. Eurasian Hoopoe – Puput eurasiàtica (Upupa epops)
  130. Indian Roller – Gaig blau de l’Índia (Coracias benghalensis)
  131. European Roller – Gaig blau (Coracias garrulus)
  132. Common Kingfisher – Blauet (Alcedo atthis)
  133. Arabian Bee-eater – Abellerol d’Aràbia (Merops cyanophrys)
  134. Common Kestrel – Xoriguer comú (Falco tinnunculus)
  135. Lesser Kestrel – Xoriguer petit (Falco naumanni)
  136. Peregrine Falcon – Falcó peregrí (Falco peregrinus)
  137. Lanner Falcon – Falcó llaner (Falco biarmicus)
  138. Alexandrine Parakeet – Cotorra alexandrina (Psittacula eupatria)
  139. Rose-winged Parakeet – Cotorra de Kramer (Psittacula krameri)
  140. Black-crowned Tchagra – Txagra de coroneta negra (Tchagra senegalus)
  141. Daurian Shrike – Capsigrany pàl·lid (Lanius isabellinus)
  142. Turkestan Shrike – Capsigrany cua-roig (Lanius phoenicuroides)
  143. Steppe Grey Shrike (pallidirostris) & Levant Grey Shrike (aucheri) – Botxí septentrional (Lanius excubitor)
  144. Arabian Babbler – Tordenc d’Aràbia (Turdoides squamiceps)
  145. Ashy Drongo – Drongo cendrós (Dicrurus leucophaeus)
  146. African Paradise Flycatcher – Monarca del paradís africà (Tersiphone viridis)
  147. Grey Hypocolius – Hipocoli (Hypocolius ampelinus)
  148. White-eared Bulbul – Bulbul d’orelles blanques (Pycnonotus leucotis)
  149. Red-vented Bulbul – Bulbul cul-roig (Pycnonotus cafer)
  150. White-spectacled Bulbul – Bulbul d’ulleres blanques (Pycnonotus xanthopygos)
  151. House Crow – Corb de l’Índia (Corvus splendens)
  152. Brown-necked Raven – Corb del desert (Corvus ruficollis)
  153. Fan-tailed Raven – Corb cuacurt (Corvus rhidipurus)
  154. Greater Hoopoe-Lark – Alosa puput (Alaemon alaudipes)
  155. Desert Lark – Terrerola del desert (Ammomanes deserti)
  156. Greater Short-toed Lark – Terrerola comuna (Calandrella brachydactyla)
  157. Black-crowned Sparrow-Lark – Terrerola frontblanca (Eremopterix nigriceps)
  158. Singing Bush Lark – Alosa cantaire (Mirafra cantillans)
  159. Crested Lark – Cogullada comuna (Galerida cristata)
  160. Sand Martin – Oreneta de ribera (Riparia riparia)
  161. Pale Crag Martin – Roquerol pàl·lid (Ptyonoprogne obsoleta)
  162. Barn Swallow – Oreneta comuna (Hirundo rustica)
  163. Graceful Prinia – Prínia gràcil (Prinia gracilis)
  164. Delicate Prinia – Prínia delicada (Prinia lepida)
  165. Common Chiffchaff – Mosquiter comú (Phylloscopus collybita)
  166. Siberian Chiffchaff – Mosquiter siberià (Phylloscopus tristis)
  167. Plain Leaf Warbler – Mosquiter sencill (Phylloscopus neglectus)
  168. Great Reed Warbler – Balquer (Acrocephalus arundinaceus)
  169. Clamorous Reed Warbler – Boscarla cridanera (Acrocephalus stentoreus)
  170. Common Reed Warbler – Boscarla de canyar (Acrocephalus scirpaceus)
  171. Blyth Reed Warbler – Boscarla dels matolls (Acrocephalus dumetorum)
  172. Asian Desert Warbler – Tallareta del desert asiàtica (Curruca nana)
  173. Common Whitethroat – Tallareta comuna (Curruca communis)
  174. Lesser Whitethroat – Tallarol xerraire (Curruca curruca)
  175. Eastern Orphean Warbler – Tallarol enmascarat oriental (Curruca crassirostris)
  176. Arabian Warbler – Tallarol d’Aràbia (Curruca leucomelaena)
  177. Ménétriés’s Warbler – Tallarol de Ménétries (Curruca mystacea)
  178. Eastern Olivaceous Warbler – Busqueta pàl·lida oriental (Iduna pallida)
  179. Abyssian White-eye – Zosterops d’Abissínia (Zosterops abyssinicus)
  180. Common Myna – Mina comú (Acridotheres tristis)
  181. Rose-coloured Starling – Estornell rosat (Pastor roseus)
  182. Tristam’s Starling – Estornell de Tristam (Onychognatus tristamii)
  183. Song Thrush – Tord comú (Turdus philomelos)
  184. Blue Rock Thrush – Merla blava (Monticola solitarius)
  185. Bluethroat – Cotxa blava (Luscinia svecica)
  186. Black Redstart – Cotxa fumada (Phoenicurus ochruros)
  187. Siberian Stonechat – Bitxac oriental (Saxicola maurus)
  188. Semicollared Flycatcher – Papamosques de mig collar (Ficedula semitorquata)
  189. Red-breasted Flycatcher – Papamosques menut (Ficedula parva)
  190. Isabelline Wheatear – Còlit isabel·lí (Oenanthe isabellina)
  191. Desert Wheatear – Còlit del desert (Oenanthe deserti)
  192. Pied Wheatear – Còlit pitnegre (Oenanthe pleschanka)
  193. Blackstart – Còlit cuanegre (Oenanthe melanura)
  194. Arabian Wheatear – Còlit d’Aràbia (Oenanthe lugentoides)
  195. Hume’s Wheatear – Còlit de Hume (Oenanthe albonigra)
  196. Persian Wheatear – Còlit cua-roig (Oenanthe chrysopygia)
  197. Nile Valley Sunbird – Suimanga del Nil (Hedydipna metallica)
  198. Palestine Sunbird – Suimanga palestina (Cinnyris osea)
  199. Arabian Sunbird – Suimanga d’Aràbia (Cinnyris hellmayri)
  200. Purple Sunbird – Suimanga porpra (Cinnyris asiaticus)
  201. House Sparrow – Pardal comú (Passer domesticus)
  202. Rüppell’s Weaver – Teixidor de Rüppell (Ploceus galbula)
  203. Scaly-breasted Munia – Maniquí escatós (Lonchura punctulata)
  204. African Silverbill – Bec d’argent africà (Euodice cantans)
  205. Indian Silverbill – Bec d’argent indi (Euodice malabarica)
  206. Citrine Wagtail – Cuereta citrina (Motacilla citreola)
  207. White Wagtail – Cuereta blanca (Motacilla alba)
  208. Grey Wagtail – Cuereta torrentera (Motacilla cinerea)
  209. Yellow Wagtail – Cuereta groga (Motacilla flava)
  210. Tawny Pipit – Trobat (Anthus campestris)
  211. Long-billed Pipit – Piula becllarga (Anthus similis)
  212. Red-throated Pipit – Piula gola-roja (Anthus cervinus)
  213. Tree Pipit – Piula dels arbres (Anthus trivialis)
  214. Yemen Serin – Gafarró del Iemen (Crithagra menachensis)
  215. Arabian Grosbeak – Durbec d’Aràbia (Rhynchostruthus percivali)
  216. Striolated Bunting – Sit estriat (Emberiza striolata)
  217. Cinnamon-breasted Bunting – Sit canyella (Emberiza tahapisi)

LIST OF MAMMALS SEEN DURING THE TRIP

  1. Egyptian Fruit Bat (Rousettus aegyptiacus)
  2. Arabian Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes arabica)
  3. Spinner Dolphin (Stenella longirostris)
  4. Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dolphin (Tursiops aduncus)
  5. Arabian Gazelle (Gazella arabica)

LIST OF REPTILIAN SEEN DURING THE TRIP

  1. Green Sea Turtle (Chelonia mydas)
  2. Loggerhead Turtle (Caretta caretta)
  3. Hawksbill Sea Turtle (Eretmochelys imbricata)
  4. Sinai Agama (Pseudotrapelus sinaitus)
  5. Asian Garden Lizzard (Calotes versicolor)
Blue Pansi (Junonia orithya), one of the commo butterflies in Oman.

Països Baixos 2023: Crònica del viatge

  • Dates: Del 6 al 10 de desembre del 2023
  • Número de participants: 3
  • Número d’espècies observades: 114

Totes les fotos en aquest resum són obra del tour líder Sergi Sales. Tots els drets reservats.

Introducció: Un dels grans espectacles de l’ornitologia europea es la hivernada d’oques i altres ocells aquàtics als Països Baixos. Es tracta d’una gran oportunitat per gaudir i aprendre de la gran diversitat d’oques, cignes, becs de serra i ànecs que es concentren en aquestes dates en aquest meravellós país. Visita obligada per qualsevol ornitòleg/a mediterrani.

Dia 1
Vol d’anada sense incidències i amb arribada puntual a Àmsterdam. Una vegada dins el vehicle de lloguer afrofitem les darreres hores de llum del dia per gaudir de les primeres espècies d’interès. Ens dirigim a un espigó prop de la capital famós per l’observació d’aus marines i on als darrers dies s’havien estat observant ànecs glacials a refugi de les dures condicions del Mar del Nord. Ràpidament veiem un a la zona interna del port alhora que dos més a mar obert. Per sorpresa i a molt curta distancia, cercant menjar a la bromera del mar, trobem un escuraflascons bec-gros! Simultàniament veiem un dels escassos corb marins emplomallats de la zona, territs foscos i un desconfiat grasset de costa.

Entre els abundants gavians de potes roses es veuen un bon nombre de gavines cendroses i els primers gavinots del viatge. Dues hores de llum molt ben aprofitades!

Ànec glacial (Clangula hyemalis), un hivernant escàs als Països Baixos.
Grasset de costa (Anthus petrosus)
Escuraflascons bec-grós (Phalaropus fulicarius), un dels molts exemplars que van “inundat” Europa a finals de la tardor.

Dia 2
Matí fred però sense vent on el primer objectiu és cercar un mascle de morell de collar que es veu a una zona propera a l’hotel a on fem nit. Després de gaudir de grans observacions de morells de plomall, cap-roig i altres espècies d’ànecs, cau la boira i desistim de buscar aquest morell americà que no es torna a retrobar en les següents jornades. Aquí ja fem les primeres observacions de morells d’ulls grocs i tords ala-rojos. Ens dirigim cap al Sud, a on per cercar ocells sedosos. Després d’un hivern amb cert flux d’entrada d’aquest meravellós ocell, sembla que s’han anat desplaçat i
els darrers dies només es veien uns pocs exemplars. La sort va estar del nostre costat, ja que vàrem trigar menys d’un minut en detectar un dels exemplars entrant a uns arbustos a menjar baies. El grup va gaudir de més de 40 minuts gaudint de 2 exemplars a menys de cinc metres de distància alimentant-se sense aturador de baies i drupes. Moments màgics!!

Després de gaudir d’un cafè ben calent per recuperar-nos de l’excitació del moment ens dirigim cap a uns pòlders ben recarregats d’energia. Tornant cap al Nord visitem fins a fer-se fosc un seguit de pòlders on ja entrem al món de la hivernada de grans grups d’aus aquàtiques. Aquí trobem grans estols d’oques de diverses espècies: oques comunes, canadenques, egípcies i, sobretot, oques de galta blanca i riallera grossa. Des del mateix punt, pero canviant l’orientació veiem masses d’aigua on hi ha números descomunals d’ànecs xiulaires barrejats amb morells d’ulls grocs. Aquí ens sorprèn l’alt nombre de becs de serra petits, dels que comptem més de 20 exemplars repartits per la zona barrejats amb els primers becs de serra grossos del viatge.

Més que satisfets de la jornada ens dirigim cap al cotxe quan de sobte entre la boira apareixen dos adults majestuosos d’àguila marina. Gran final!

Primer plànol d’un dels magnífics ocells sedosos (Bombycilla garrulus)
Oca de galta blanca (Branta leucopsis). La població Bàltica hiverna cada cop més als Països Baixos.
Bec de serra petit (Mergellus albellus), potser l’Anàtida més celebrada del viatge.
Bec de serra gros (Mergus merganser).
Àguila marina (Hieraatus albicilla)

Dia 3
Avui l’objectiu és visitar la famosa illa de Texel. Per 1 minut perdem el primer Ferry del que disposaven. Per un i únic moment no ens va agradar l’excelsa puntualitat holandesa!
A les aigües properes al port es veuen morells d’ulls groc i diverses espècies de limícoles a les vores més sorrenques.
Al pocs kilòmetres d’entrar a l’illa ens adonem de la màgia ornitològica d’aquest espai, a on es veuen grans grups d’oques de moltes espècies arreu, juntament amb estols mixtes de tords ala-rojos i grives cerdanes, a més d’incomptables grups de fredelugues.

En un dels prats localitzem un grup de més d’un centenar de cignes petits descansant
plàcidament.
Escanejant el grans grups d’oques podem veure grans estols d’oques rialleres grosses i oques de la tundra, mentre que les zones més properes al mar abunden les oques de collar i les oques de galta blanca, entre les quals apareix alguna oca de bec curt.

El mosaic de prats i aiguamolls, decorat amb les famoses ovelles de Texel fa que ja es puguin observar diferents espècies de limícoles i Anàtides. Després d’un regenerador cafè ens dirigim als famosos sistemes dunars a la cerca dels passeriformes típics d’aquests ambients. Una caminada per aquesta zona ens permet comparar la veu dels grassets de costa amb els de muntanya, fins que arribem a un estuari on passen volant un grupet de sit blancs poc abans de detectar un estol d’una trentena d’aloses banyudes alimentant-se de petites llavors. Amb elles passem una estona increïble veient com s’alimenten i van movent-se entre les dunes mentre gaudim d’uns agradables 12ºC.

La tarda comença a avançar i un bon plat de pasta ens serveix per recuperar energia i encarar el llarg transfer cap l’hotel que serà la referència per prospectar les regions de Zeeland i Nord Brabant.

Oca de collar (Branta bernicla), una de les oques més comuns a Texel.
Oca de la tundra (Anser serrirostris) amb oques comunes (Anser anser).
Oca de bec curt (Anser brachyrhynchus) amb oques rialleres grosses (Anser albifrons).
Aloses banyudes (Eremophila alpestris)

Dia 4
La primera parada la fem per visitar els pòlders a on, de forma més o menys regular, hiverna una de les darreres espècies d’oques que ens manquen per veure al viatge: les oques rialleres petites. Desprès de prospectar els grans grups d’oques localitzem força amagats en grupet amb exemplars immadurs. En aquestes zones predominen els grups d’oques del Canadà, de galta blanca i les rialleres grosses.

Després d’observar aquesta espècie tant escassa ens dirigim cap les zones amb pòlders on es més fàcil cercar aus de caràcter més marí. Una continuada pluja ens acompanyarà la resta de la jornada, per això decidim prospectar zones visitables des del cotxe. Passem zones amb bons estols de garses de mar i becuts a peu de carretera i grups molt confiats d’oques de collar entre les quals detectem un exemplar
molt fosc amb flancs blancs, una oca de collar de la subespècie nigricans, un divagant provinent de terres canadenques i resta del Nord del continent Nord-americà.

Passem per una zona on està l’únic grup de flamencs present en aquest país, i probablement provenen d’escapaments de zoològics centreeuropeus.
Arribem a les famoses badies de Zeeland on hi ha grans grups de becs de serra mitjans molt actius pescant els abundants peixos de la zona, però mirant amb més detall els ocells a mitjana distància també veiem cabussons orelluts, un preciós mascle d’èider i ànecs negres. A les zones de roques de l’espigó es veuen bons grups de territs tres-dits i remena-rocs entre els quals es troben diversos territs foscos.

On trenquen les onades apareix de sobte un gran cap de mamífer, una foca grisa,
posteriorment veiem un altre fins que al final detectem 3 exemplars a tocar de les roques, tot cercant refugi de les braves onades del mar. Amb aquests simpàtics mamífers arriba el capvespre i terminem una altra jornada ben profitosa.

Bec de serra mitjà (Mergus serrator)
Foca grisa (Halychoerus gripus)
Cabussó orellut (Podiceps auritus) al mar.

Dia 5.

El darrer matí del viatge el dediquem a cercar espècies que fins se’ns havien resistit, tot
visitant zones rurals amb grans planes on aconseguim veure un grup de més de 100 cignes cantaires, aconseguint així veure totes les espècies de cignes del Paleàrtic Occidental amb l’afegitó del cigne negre provinent de poblacions asilvestrades que nien en certs punts de centre Europa.

Els mateixos camps també tenen grans densitat de llebres de gran mida, faisans i alguns rapinyaires com aligots comuns (alguns molt pàl·lids), xoriguers, esparvers, astors i arpelles pàl·lides comunes.
Tornem a visitar zones del dia anterior amb millors condicions de llum on trobem una femella de morell buixot, una espècie cada cop més escassa als Països Baixos.


Els xisclets d’uns rasclons marquen el comiat a un gran viatge a on hem pogut observar 10 espècies diferents d’oques, els 3 becs de serra i els 3 cignes junt amb altres especialitats com els morells d’ulls grocs, buixots, ànecs glacials, àguiles marines, aloses banyudes, grassets de costa i territs foscos, amb el gran premi dels confiats ocells sedosos. Ja friso per tornar!!!

Estol de cignes cantaires (Cygnus cygnus).

Llistat dels ocells observats al tour

  1. Oca comuna (Anser anser)
  2. Oca riallera grossa (Anser albifrons)
  3. Oca riallera petita (Anser erythropus)
  4. Oca pradenca (Anser fabalis)
  5. Oca de la Tundra (Anser serrirostris)
  6. Oca de bec curt (Anser brachyrhynchus)
  7. Oca de collar (Branta bernicla)
  8. Oca de galta blanca (Branta leucopsis)
  9. Oca del Canadà (Branta canadensis)
  10. Cigne mut (Cygnus olor)
  11. Cigne negre (Cygnus atratus)
  12. Cigne petit (Cygnus columbianus)
  13. Cigne cantaire (Cygnus cygnus)
  14. Oca d’Egipte (Alopochen aegyptiaca)
  15. Ànec blanc (Tadorna tadorna)
  16. Ànec cullerot comú (Spatula clypeata)
  17. Ànec grisset (Mareca strepera)
  18. Ànec xiulador comú (Mareca penelope)
  19. Ànec collverd (Anas platyrhynchos)
  20. Ànec cuallarg (Anas acuta)
  21. Xarxet comú (Anas crecca)
  22. Morell cap-roig (Aythya ferina)
  23. Morell de plomall (Aythya fuligula)
  24. Morell buixot (Aythya marila)
  25. Èider comú (Somateria mollissima)
  26. Ànec negre comú (Melanitta nigra)
  27. Ànec glacial (Clangula hyemalis)
  28. Morell d’ulls grocs (Bucephala clangula)
  29. Bec de serra petit (Mergellus albellus)
  30. Bec de serra gros (Mergus merganser)
  31. Bec de serra mitjà (Mergus serrator)
  32. Faisà comú (Phasianus colchicus)
  33. Cabusset comú (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
  34. Cabussó orellut (Podiceps auritus)
  35. Cabussó emplomallat (Podiceps cristatus)
  36. Cabussó collnegre (Podiceps nigricollis)
  37. Colom roquer (Columba livia domes)
  38. Xixella (Columba oenas)
  39. Tudó (Columba palumbus)
  40. Tórtora turca (Streptopelia decaocto)
  41. Rascló occidental (Rallus aquaticus)
  42. Polla d’aigua comuna (Gallinula chloropus)
  43. Fotja comuna (Fulica atra)
  44. Bec d’alena comú (Recurvirostra avosetta)
  45. Garsa de mar eurasiàtica (Haematopus ostralegus)
  46. Pigre gris (Pluvialis squatarola)
  47. Daurada grossa (Pluvialis apricaria)
  48. Corriol anellat gros (Charadrius hiaticula)
  49. Fredeluga europea (Vanellus vanellus)
  50. Becut eurasiàtic (Numenius arquata)
  51. Tètol cuabarrat (Limosa lapponica)
  52. Becadell comú (Gallinago gallinago)
  53. Escuraflascons becgròs (Phalaropus fulicarius)
  54. Gamba roja comuna (Tringa totanus)
  55. Gamba verda (Tringa nebularia)
  56. Remena-rocs comú (Arenaria interpres)
  57. Batallaire (Calidris pugnax)
  58. Territ de tres dits (Calidris alba)
  59. Territ variant (Calidris alpina)
  60. Territ fosc (Calidris maritima)
  61. Gavina riallera (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
  62. Gavina cendrosa (Larus canus)
  63. Gavià argentat europeu (Larus argentatus)
  64. Gavinot atlàntic (Larus marinus)
  65. Gavià fosc (Larus fuscus)
  66. Xatrac becllarg (Thalasseus sandvicensis)
  67. Corb marí gros (Phalacrocorax carbo)
  68. Martinet blanc comú (Egretta garzetta)
  69. Agró blanc (Ardea alba)
  70. Bernat pescaire (Ardea cinerea)
  71. Becplaner comú (Platalea leucorodia)
  72. Arpella pàl·lida comuna (Circus cyaneus)
  73. Esparver comú (Accipiter nisus)
  74. Astor comú (Accipiter gentilis)
  75. Pigarg cuablanc (Haliaeetus albicilla)
  76. Aligot comú (Buteo buteo)
  77. Blauet comú (Alcedo atthis)
  78. Xoriguer comú (Falco tinnunculus)
  79. Esmerla (Falco columbarius)
  80. Gaig eurasiàtic (Garrulus glandarius)
  81. Garsa eurasiàtica (Pica pica)
  82. Gralla occidental (Corvus monedula)
  83. Graula (Corvus frugilegus)
  84. Cornella negra (Corvus corone)
  85. Mallerenga blava eurasiàtica (Cyanistes caeruleus)
  86. Mallerenga carbonera (Parus major)
  87. Alosa banyuda (Eremophila alpestris)
  88. Alosa comuna (Alauda arvensis)
  89. Mosquiter comú (Phylloscopus collybita)
  90. Rossinyol bord comú (Cettia cetti)
  91. Mallerenga cuallarga eurasiàtica (Aegithalos caudatus)
  92. Raspinell comú (Certhia brachydactyla)
  93. Cargolet comú (Troglodytes troglodytes)
  94. Estornell comú (Sturnus vulgaris)
  95. Tord comú (Turdus philomelos)
  96. Tord ala-roig (Turdus iliacus)
  97. Merla comuna (Turdus merula)
  98. Griva cerdana (Turdus pilaris)
  99. Pit-roig (Erithacus rubecula)
  100. Bitxac comú (Saxicola rubicola)
  101. Ocell sedós comú (Bombycilla garrulus)
  102. Pardal de bardissa (Prunella modularis)
  103. Pardal comú (Passer domesticus)
  104. Cuereta torrentera (Motacilla cinerea)
  105. Cuereta blanca (Motacilla alba)
  106. Titella (Anthus pratensis)
  107. Grasset de muntanya (Anthus spinoletta)
  108. Grasset de costa (Anthus petrosus)
  109. Pinsà comú (Fringilla coelebs)
  110. Verdum europeu (Chloris chloris)
  111. Cadernera europea (Carduelis carduelis)
  112. Lluer eurasiàtic (Spinus spinus)
  113. Sit blanc (Plectrophenax nivalis)
  114. Repicatalons comú (Emberiza schoeniclus)

Llistat dels mamífers observats al tour

  1. Llebre europea (Leppus europaeus)
  2. Guineu roja (Vulpes vulpes)
  3. Foca grisa (Halichoerus grypus)
  4. Cabirol (Capreolus capreolus)