Welcome to the official blog site of Barcelona Birding Point, your new birding & wildwatching travel agency. Here you will find trip reports, detailed information about some of our tours, tips on conservation and more.
All images in this trip report by tour leader Carles Oliver unless otherwise specified. All rights reserved.
Overview: 10th Pyrenees Winter Break issue. This winter in the Pyrenees has been specially unnormal. The winter started normally, with the first snowfall happening in early November. Soon, the trend changed and we faced several weeks without any snowfall and the high temperatures melted the few snow left. With temperatures ranking 25ºC in January, some high mountain specialties changed their normal routines, especially affected were Snow Finches and Citril Finches, but also Alpine Choughs. This anormal situation, made the tour a bit harder than usual. Despite all of this, we got excellent views in the high mountain specialties and many of the steppe birds, with stunning views on both Wallcreeper and Dupont’s Lark, and 8+ Lammergeiers & 5+ Cinereous Vultures seen.
Day 1. After gathering all the tour participants from their accommodations around the city and enjoy tea & coffee stop we headed to the first birding stop of the tour. During the next hour, we walked around a mosaic landscape with some large trees, bushland and crops.
Here we were delighted to see the first Iberian Green Woodpeckers of the trip, quite active in the early morning. The morning was a bit cloudy and, once again, warm for what we can expect in Barcelona in early February. Small flocks of Common Chaffinches were getting out of the fields, and along with them we saw European Serinsand Eurasian Tree Sparrows. Our walk around had a nice start, with a showy Lesser Spotted Woodpecker was calling and drumming from the top of the canopies, and we had really good looks on it for almost five minutes. In this same spot we also got Iberian Green Woodpeckers and a Ring-necked Parakeet exploring some nesting holes. Both Great & Blue Tits were active in the area, and a juvenile Peregrine Falcon did a couple of fast flights in the area, hoping to catch one of the several small birds moving. Other interesting birds here included Eurasian Hoopoe, Eurasian Jay and Common Pheasant. 3 Rock Buntings flew out from the bushes, but unfortunately none of the tour participants had a proper view on them
From the lovely plain in the Llobregat Delta we drove to a small garden around Barcelona where a White-throated Sparrow had been seen. We waited for almost one hour but, unfortunately, the Sparrow didn’t show for us. Still, a nice flock of Red-billed Leiothrix was a great entertainment for us, with some Eurasian Blackcaps and Coal Tits also showing well.
After a short stop for coffees and logistics, we drove up to the hills, with the next stop in the top of the one of the highest mountains between Barcelona and the Pyrenees. Here we had the longest walk of the trip, aiming to connect with the small population of Alpine Accentorsliving there. Fortunately we didn’t have to walk a lot before a lovely flock of at least 12 Alpine Accentors came to us to offer the group wonderful and very long views, with some of the birds performing right in front of us for several minutes! It was midday and in this small peak, normally covered with snow in early February, the sensation was of being late September! We had a comfortable 15ºC when being at 1700m above the sea level! Even in such a conditions, it was very surprising to find a femaleHen Harrier hunting in the slopes of the mountains, and moreover, to see 3 Dartford Warblers singing and chasing each other in the tall vegetation. This is only a summer visitor to this habitat, normally covered by snow. Dartford Warblers spend the winter at lower altitudes, waiting for the snow to melt and temperatures to arise up (this is normally happening by late March or early April).
From here we covered the short distance of driving to the first hillsides of the Pyrenees where, even before arriving to the planned stop, we had to do a stop in one of its minor roads, that appeared covered by hundreds of Finches. Here we got the first excellent views on Common Crossbill, with some superb males singing from the top of the Mountain Pines. Hundreds of Eurasian Siskins were calling and singing here, probably moving North to their nesting grounds in Northern Europe. Eurasian Goldfinch, Coal & Crested Tits, Goldcrestand Mistle Thrushwere all seen here, some of them providing great looks. At least 2 Citril Finches were noted inside this massive flock of birds, but they flew over almost unnoticed and I fell to put anyone in the group on the Finches, that fastly disappeared in the forest.
The afternoon was well advanced when we had our last stop of the day. This time to have some time in a lovely subboreal forest. Here, we were again surrounded by Common Crossbills and Siskins and only one minute after leaving the van we had a Black Woodpeckercalling not far away. It took us only a pair of minutes to contact with the bird, that was active with a variety of calls to finally stop in a large, dead trunk. There we enjoyed long views as the bird was first calling and then preening before going away. We still had some more time in this lovely habitat, but it didn’t produce anything else out of a pair of showy Great Spotted Woodpeckersand 1 Eurasian Nuthatch.
Close up on Common Buzzard (Buteo buteo) to start the tour.Red-billed Leiothrix (Leiothrix lutea) has a small population in the forests around Barcelona.Alpine Accentor (Prunella collaris) was worth every step un the hill!Common Crosbill (Loxia curvirostra) has been a common sight along this winter in the Pyrenees.We enjoyed rather distant but long views on Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius).
Day 2. After enjoying our breakfast in our quiet accommodation in La Cerdanya valley, we spent the next couple of hours exploring the valley immediately beside. Here, a number of selected stops produced a good list of birds that included large numbers of Mistle Thrushes and Redwings with some Fieldfares but also really good views on Short-toed Treecreeper, Common Crossbills, Crested Tit and, especially, gorgeous looks on Rock Buntings that seemed very active and ready to start the nesting season.
From here, we drove inside Andorra. All the main mountain passes in this area of Catalonia had no snow at the moment, and our only hope to find Snow Finches was to go inside Andorra and do some stops along a mountain pass reaching 2500 metres above the sea level and sky resort located nearby. Once there, we saw that the amount of snow was also really thin, and the sunny weather reduced our chances to connect with the Finches even thinner. Still, we enjoyed very lovely views on Alpine Choughs as they were feeding around the sky resort but also acting almost as Wallcreepers in the buildings around!
Crossing Andorra, we headed South towards the most impressive spot for large raptors in the Pyrenees. Even if the intense Andorran traffic made us go slowly, we arrived to the hillsides around Isona with the sun well high in the sky. Moreover, in our way out of Andorra we got excellent views on White-throated Dippers.
The rest of the afternoon we drove along a pair of tracks, with several stops to enjoy the many birds of prey in the sky. After three hours, a conservative count showed out 7 Lammergeiers, hundreds of Eurasian Griffons and 12 Cinereous Vultures. We got several excellent views, with adult Lammergeiers passing only tens of metres away from the van; Lammergeierscircling along with Cinereous Vultures; or a flock of 15 Griffonsand 4 Lammergeiers all circling together to name some of most celebrated sights. Due to the multiple stops to enjoy the several raptors in the sky, we arrived to our accommodation a bit later than expected, but with some unforgettable memories!
Rock Bunting (Emberiza cia) singing his heart out for us.Alpine Chough (Phyrrocorax graculus) Alpine Chough close up in our visit in Andorra.Lammergeier (Gypaetos barbatus), one of the several enjoyed.A pair of Lammergeiers almost touching wings. Cinereous Vulture (Aegypius monachus) has a small but healthy population in the Pyrenees.
Day 3. After breakfast, we covered the short distance from Lleida to the first gorges in the Pyrenees. Once there, we spent a couple of hours enjoying the rocky outcrops. Blue Rock Thrush had a short appearance, but Firecrests and Goldcrest gave us long views. In the cliffs, Griffons Vultures were nesting along with Rock Sparrows. In the river along the gorge, Dippers were moving up and down along with Grey Wagtails. Other birds here included Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Cirl Buntings and Sardinian Warbler.
But the main reason to come was another, and a really important one. To be fair, the Wallcreeper overwintering in the gorge didn’t take long to appear, but we had to wait a bit before everybody in the group could connect with it. Still, we were really lucky, and a Wallcreeperappeared at its typical place a bit after 10:00 in the morning. The bird was half way up in the cliff, and not very showy. We had to wait for 5 minutes before the bird, suddenly, decided to come down by the tarmac! The next 10 minutes were some of the most intense in our Pyrenean outings this winter, with extremely close views on this Wallcreeper, while the bird was moving really low along the gorge. At times, we had ti sensation of be able even of touching the bird!
Wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria) at close range. Image by Mark Dowie.Another great shot on Wallcreeper. Please note the delicate design of the undertail coverts. Image by Mark Dowie.
After enjoying such a wonderful views on the one of the main specialties living in the mountains we drove down to the plains. There, large flocks of European Golden Plovers and Northern Lapwings were waiting for us. We have our lunch stop by a small pond, where we had Northern Shovelers, Common Pochards, Little Grebes, Eurasian Coots & Teals, 2 Green Sandpipers but also large flocks of White Storks in the move from their roosting places around Lleida. The area was also good for small birds and European Stonechat, Meadow Pipit, Eurasian Skylark, Crested Lark, Chiffchaff, Linnet, Reed Bunting and Eurasian Tree Sparrow were noted.
After lunch we changed to a second pond, and our visit was granted with nice views on 7 Ferruginous Ducks, a very scarce bird in Catalonia!
Driving East, we arrived to an area with a very different landscape. Here, small but cleverly managed fields still allow a good density of Little Bustards. This species, formerly fairly common in Iberia, had become almost a scarcity, and its winter flocks have been severely decimated. A first stop was done to try to connect with a pair of Black-winged Kites nesting in the area, but we only got a small flock of Woodlarks, several Corn Buntings and multiple views on Red Kite & Marsh Harrier. A bit further, 4 Little Bustards were seen by the road, and we got good views from the van to don’t disturb the birds.
The last stop of the day was deserved to the desert-like ambients South of Lleida, where we had a short walk to enjoy the first Thekla’s Larks of the trip along with lovely flocks of Red-billed Choughs, Spotless Starlings, Rock Sparrows and a Black Wheatear that refused to show for the group! It was already quite late, but we decided to have a very last stop, and our effort was very worth. We still had to get out of the van when we listened and Eurasian Eagle Owl calling from somewhere in the valley. After a fast scanning, we decided to go for a slow short walk, and after a few metres Mark got the bird singing from a dead branch up in the hillside. During the few minutes, we got amazing scope views on the bird while some Redwings were attending their roosting site. A superb way to end another very good day!
Part of the flock of Ferruginous Ducks (Aythya nyroca) seen around Lleida.Little Bustard (Tetrax tetrax) female feeding.Eagle Owl calling from its perch. Image by Mark Dowie.
Day 4. After a sunny start of the trip, this was a grey and rainy day. A difficult weather to search for the specialties living in the steppes. Still, we went to explore the endless plains in central Monegros. A first stop in a small salty lagoon produced the only Kentish Plover of the trip along with Common Shelducks and Black-headed Gulls. From here, we got in the plains, but the muddy tracks made difficult for us to arrive to some locations. Still, we were lucky enough to contact with 2 nice Black-bellied Sandgrouses that provided flying views. 1 Little Owl was also a nice sight while flocks of Calandra & Skylarks were flying over the fields. After a couple of hours checking around the rain became heavier, and we decided to go for a service stop. It was a fortunate choice since the sky cleared right when we were leaving the coffee shop.
Back to the plains, we managed to arrive to a nice spot and soon we found a nice of 11 Pin-tailed Sandgrouses that stayed on a field for us for about 20 minutes. Here we had nice scope views with some good photo and video chances. Several Calandra & Crested Larks were singing here, and as the sun became stronger, the first Mediterranean Short-toed Larks (aka Lesser Short-toed Larks) of the trip were noted. From here we moved into a different section of the plains, and we were lucky to find a nice flock of 31 Common Cranes feeding on the ground at close range, and a closer flock of Eurasian Griffons on the ground, waiting for the weather to improve. Here we also got a nice male Hen Harrier flying over the large fields, and 2 extra Little Owls! But unfortunately the rain started again, even heavier than before and we decided to move away, trying to put some distance from the mud and the rain.
But when we arrive to our new accommodation, the rain was also there for us, and we decided to end the day after enjoying a distant view on a new Little Owl.
Pin-tailed Sandgrouses (Pterocles alchata) feeding under the rain.
Day 5. After enjoying breakfast, we headed out to the large steppes immediatly South of Zaragoza. This is a wonderful are to enjoy steppe birds, with multiple places where to go and try to find the different specialties living in the region. After the generous rain of the previous day, we woke up in a sunny day with only some clouds.
We started driving in the minor tracks crossing the steppes and soon got 2 Black-bellied Sandgrouses in a farming area. Beyond, both Calandra and Mediterranean Short-toed Larks started singing, offering both really good looks. It didn’t take long before we got a first Dupont’s Lark singing. It looked like far away, but then a second bird started singing a bit closer. Some Short-toed Larks were around, feeding and providing some photo opportunities. The wind started to pick up, but both Dupont’s Larks were still singing. We put out the scopes, trying to see them in the ocean of grass in front of us, but we couldn’t contact with the bird..
After 40 minutes of scan we decided to move away and try a different spot. By that time the wind was already strong. A new Lesser Short-toed Lark in good light was welcome by the photographers in the group, but suddenly a second bird appeared right behind the Short-toed Lark. A Dupont’s Lark sitting in the top of a small bush only 10 metres away from us!! Soon we were all having the bird and celebrating our luck.
Mediterranean Short-toed Lark (Alaudala rufescens). Lovely views on a singing Dupont’s Lark (Chersophilus duponti) after a couple of hours of waiting! Image by tour leader Carles OliverThekla’s Lark (Galerida theklae) close up to end our exploration of the steppes.
Leaving the steppes, we still had a pair of Red-billed Choughs displaying around and 2 Black-bellied Sandgrouses plus a pair of superb Golden Eagles in the highway. But certainly the wind had picked up in the last minutes. We started the final transfer to Barcelona, having a stop in a lovely lagoon with a wonderful reedbed. Unfortunately, by the time we arrived to the lagoon the wind was so strong that it was almost not possible to stand up, and we had to search refuge in a blind and even inside the van to enjoy our packed lunches. Here, we only got Gadwalls and Great Crested Grebes and the very strong wind made no possible to contact with any passerine living in the reeds.
Despite the strong wind, we still had something to add to our list and a small detour to explore a sheltered gorge produced a nice male Black Wheatear in the top of a small cliff, providing good views to all the members of the group. This very last minute sight was really appreciated, since the first contact with this species, a couple of days before, was poor and not everyone in the group actually so the bird.
After this short stop, we just transferred back to Barcelona to end our tour around the airport by mid afternoon.
Totes les imatges en aquesta crònica de viatge són obra d’en Joan Barat a menys no s’especifiqui el contrari. Tots els drets estan reservat / All images in this trip report by tour participant Joan Barat unless otherwise specified. All rights reserved.
Resum: Segon tour ornitològic a la província del Western Cape, amb tota la experiència acumulada del nostre primer tour. En aquesta ocasió cal destacar una molt bona diversitat d’Anàtides i d’altres espècies de zones humida. Sembla que la relativa sequera que hi havia a la zona va fer que moltes petites zones humides fossin seques, concentrant les aus en les grans zones humides costaneres. La sortida pelàgica, una experiència gairebé única, va proporcionar una llista més que destacable i sempre és un moment excitant el passar a tocar del Cap de Bona Esparança escortat per estols de pingüins africans i mascarells del Cap per adentrar-se a l’Oceà, a on esperen els albatros i els petrells gegants…
A terra, el tour va aconseguir observacions fantàstiques d’espècies tant destacables com arpella negra o sisó del Cap, però els moments viscuts a tocar d’una parella de saltarroques del Cap van ser, potser, els més intensos. Només els que han provat de trobar aquests esquerps animals saben de la dificultat de connectar amb aquesta espècie quasi llegendària…
Sud-àfrica és la regió d’Àfrica amb major nombre d’espècies endèmiques en part per l’exclusivitat dels hàbitats que allà es troben, ambients àrids, els fynbos i karoo , tots ells els varen poder visitar, observant la majoria d’especialitats a més en l’època més espectacular amb el màxim de floració per a moltes espècies vegetals, tot i no ser un any especialment humit. Això encara es manifesta més amb les diverses visites als majestuosos parcs botànics de la zona on hi ha una gran diversitat d’espècies d’ocells.
El resultat ens reafirma en que el Western Cape és un lloc de visita obligada en aquestes dates per qualsevol ornitòleg interessat en l’ornitofauna africana i les aus pelàgiques.
Sisó negre meridional / Southern Black Korhaan (Afrotis afra)
Abstract: Second tour to Cape Town, with all the experience acquired from the first tour. This tour enjoyed a wonderful weather all the week long, and very good densities of waterfowl. The province was in the middle of a short drought, and this favoured the ducks and other waterfowl to concentrate along the major coastal wetlands. The offshore, an unique experience, ended with a great list. It is always a formidable moment to overpass the Good Hope Cape escorted by dozens of African Penguins, Cormorants different species and Cape Gannets, while in the open Ocean a good array of Albatrosses and Giant Petrels are awaiting..
On land, our group enjoyed great views on 40+ endemics or near-endemics, being especially great those on Southern Black Korhaan, Blue Crane, Cape Siskin, Black Harrier, Agulhas Long-billed Lark, the striking Orange-breasted Sunbird, the magnificent Cape Sugarbird ,and especially ,the enigmatic and often difficult to find Cape Rockjumper.
Once more, we were delighted by the blossom in Western Cape. Here, a gorgeous variety of unique flora was waiting for us. Both fynbos (mediterranean style scrubland) and karoo (desert-like areas) were full of wonderful proteas and aloes! An spectacle by its own not only in the wild, but also in the many and superb Botanical Gardens around.
Dia 1. El grup surt des de l’aeroport de Barcelona i, després d’una escala a Àmsterdam, arribem a Ciutat del Cap poc abans de mitjanit. Al poc temps d’aterrar ens confirmen que la sortida pelàgica, prevista per l’endemà al matí, s’ajorna en previsió de forts vents i onatge sever. No és una eventualitat estranya, tenint el compte la meteorologia complexe de la zona. Naturalment, teníem un plà alternatiu.
Dia 2. Al matí següent, després d’un bon esmorzar, aprofitem per fer una primera passejada a l’entorn de l’hotel on veiem les primeres especialitat com el pardal del Cap, la cuereta del Cap i zosterop del Cap .
Una petita zona humida propera acull grups familiars de fotges banyudes i colònies actives de teixidors social del Cap i emmascarat . Una petita illa es converteix es zona de descans pels petits corbs marins africans, alhora que centenars de gavines de Harlaub, de cap-gris i gavià de Liechstentein . Sortejant el tranquil trànsit de Ciutat del Cap, arribem a un complexe d’aiguamolls al Sud de la ciutat on la densitat i diversitat d’ànecs és impressionant. Hi han centenars de xarxets del Cap , amb Ànec cullerot sud-africà però també ànecs bec-groc, bec-vermell i el més escàs Xibec bru. Als pals dins l’aigua descansen grups de Xatrac reial bec-groc . També hi han grans estols de Flamencs amb més d’una quarantena de Flamencs menuts. Un escanejat dels grups d’ànecs ens permet trobar un Ànec arborí bicolor, una espècie rara a Ciutat del Cap que sembla que enguany ha tingut una inusual irrupció en aquest espai.
Encara sense deixar la ciutat, canviem dràsticament d’hàbitat i visitem el Jardí Botànic de Kirstenbosch, impressionant espai amb una bona representació de les comunitats d’ocells presents als Fynbos. Per la gespa ens sorprenen grups familiars de Francolí del Cap acompanyats de Merla olivàcia i Còssifa del Cap .
Fins a 5 espècies de suimangues aprofiten el gran nombre de flors, acompanyats de Llèpols del Cap . Una parella de Duc africà nidifica en un zona pública i alhora que la femella esta covant els ous de la nova niuada, els joves de l’anterior posta estan en plena emancipació. Acabem la jornada gaudint de l’únic Colom ull groc del viatge.
Cape Teals & Cape Shovelers. Dues espècies força comunes a la província del Western Cape.Xibec bru / Southern Pochard Netta erythrophthalma), una de les espècies més elegants dins del gènere Aythya.La fotxa banyuda / Red-knobbed Coot (Fulica cristata), una espècie habitual a Ciutat del Cap.Flamenc nan / Lesser Flamingo (Phoeniconaias minor) en volFredeguga armada / Blacksmith Lapwing (Vanellus armata)Batis del Cap / Cape Batis (Batis capensis)Duc africà / Spotted Eagle Owl (Bubo africanus), a common species around the city.Zosterops del Cap / Cape White-eye (Zosterops virens)Botxí fiscal meridional / Southern Fiscal (Lanius collaris) Suimange d’acer / Southern Double-collared Sunbird (Cynniris chalybeus) Còssifa del Cap / Cape Robin Chat (Cossipha caffra)
Dia 3. Confirmat que podrem fer un dels millors moments del tour, la sortida pelàgica!! Però comencem amb un ensurt ja que el nostres hotel està encerclat per la marató de Cape Town que es celebra aquell mateix dia. Afortunadament vàrem sortir amb molta antelació i finalment vàrem trobar la sortida cap al sud. Entre tant de temps d’espera vam detectar un pinsà comú, espècie introduïda pels britànics. Desprès de les corresponents explicacions pugem a la barca, al propi port es veuen 3 espècies de corbs marins: el corb marí del Cap, el coronat i el gorja blanc, compartint espai amb garses de mar negres africanes. Abans de sortir d’una badia amb la mar ben plana, passem prop de roques on es veuen ossos marins Afro-australians i una petita colònia de corbs marins d’ull groc. A l’aigua hi ha petits grups de pingüins del Cap pescant activament. Una vegada passat l’espectacular Cap de Bona Esperança veiem barques locals pescant barracudes i les primeres aus pelàgiques, en concret ràpides baldrigues de barbeta blanca, estols d’adults de mascarells del Cap i un petit estol de gavinetes de cua-forcada. Arribats a mar obert no es fa esperar el 1er albatros, en concret un parell d’albatros tímids. També ens acompanyen paràsits subantàrtics intentant piratejar els grups de gavines i xatracs.
A partir d’aquí l’objectiu es intentar detectar els gran vaixells pesquers que treballen per la zona, on estols de centenars d’aus marines aprofiten els descart de la pesquera. La presencia de grups d’Albatros, Baldrigues, petrells…ens confirmen que ens estem apropant a un d’ells. Un bon nombre de baldrigues grises i cap-negres acompanyen la barca a curta distancia. També comencen a aparèixer els 1ers ocells de tempesta de Wilson i Europeus. Als Albatros tímids se li sumen un bon nombre d’albatros cellanegre, bec-groc Atlantic i del Pacífic. Els Petrells gegants, tant el del Nord com el del Sud fan varies incursions en els estols d’aus, però sens dubte un dels ocells més espectaculars de la sortida van ser els diversos petrell del Cap.
Bank & Cape Cormorants (PhalacrocoraxPetrell del Cap / Cape Petrel Baldriga capnegre / Great Shearwater (Puffinus gravis)Mascarell del Cap / Cape Gannet (Morus capensis)Baldriga cendrosa / Sooty Shearwater (Puffinus griseus)Albatros tímid / Shy Albatross (Thalassarche cauta). Imatge del tour líder Sergi Sales.White-chinned Petrel
Desprès de menjar uns excel·lents sandvitxos i fer les darreres fotografies, tornem cap a port, amb la sorpresa final del salt d’una Iubarta a curtíssima distancia de l’embarcació. Una vegada desembarcats una confiada Llúdriga del Cap fa les delícies dels observadors.
Aprofitem la curta distancia per visitar la colònia de Pingüins on també trobem els 1ers ocells ratolins comuns, prinia del Karoo i suimanga d’acer. La darrera aturada d’aquest tant excitant dia la fem a uns espectaculars turons des d’on tenim grans vistes de Ciutat del Cap i veiem els 1ers còlits familiars del tour.
Llúdria del Cap / Cape Clowless Otter (Aonyx capensis) passejant-se per les barques de pesca. Imatge del tour líder Sergi Sales.Pingüí africà / African Penguin Còlit familiar / Familiar Chat
Dia 4 . Durant aquesta assoleiada jornada, l’objectiu prioritari va ser el saltaroques del Cap, ocell endèmic i emblemàtic de la zona. Els saltaroques són ocells rupícoles força peculiars. Només existeixen dues espècies en aquest gènere, totes dues endèmiques de Sud-àfrica i que viuen en vessants pedregossos amb més o menys cobertura vegetal. El matí ventós i la coincidència amb varis grups d’ornitòlegs que ens anem trobant sense que hagin pogut trobar-ne cap ens fa témer el pitjor, però finalment vam aconseguir el premi a la perseverança quan una parella d’aquest vistós ocell apareix ben a prop del camí recollint material per fer el niu. L’observació va ser a plaer i, a molt curta distància, amb el mascle sovint atansant-se a només 3 o 4 metres de distància.
Tot i el vent aquesta localització va tornar a ser esplèndida i vàrem anar sumant espècies a la llista destacant-ne el corb becgròs de clatell blanc, la suimanga de pit taronja o el sit del Cap.
Saltarroques del Cap / Cape Rockjumper (Chaetops frenatus) female. Saltarroques del Cap / Cape Rockjumper (Chaetos frenatus) male. A gorgeous and often elusive bird!Sit del Cap / Cape Bunting (Emberiza capensis)Gafarró del Cap / Cape Canary (Serinus canicollis)
Més arrecerats vàrem visitar un petit jardí botànic però en el qual hi havien una gran quantitat i diversitat d’ocells. Bones observacions de batis del Cap, papamosques fosc i fiscal, gafarró gris i estrilda de galta negra i els espectaculars monarques del paradís africà.
A la tarda petit trànsfer fins al West Coast National Park canviant de paisatges mentre travessem grans extensions amb bones densitat de rapinyaires i alàudids. Una espectacular òliba ens va acomiadar la jornada.
Dia 4. Des de la pròpia porta de l’hospedatge podem veure una zona inundada ben plena de limícols, gavines i xatracs. Entre ells corriols front-blanc i pàl-lid. Conduint per les pistes ens creuen els 1ers francolins jugulars, les 3 espècies d’ocells ratolí: l’ocell ratolí cara roig, el comú i el de dors blanc. El parc es visita per una xarxa de pistes en molt bon estat on no es pot córrer entre d’altres coses per evitar atropellaments de fauna. Magnífics estruços sembla que ens donen la benvinguda al parc. Travessant la zona de Fynbos veiem espècies com l’oreneta perlada, cistícola d’esquena grisa, apalis de collar, terrerola dorsigrisa o la cogullada becgrossa . A les zones amb arbres es deixen veure el gladiador xiulador, la mallerenga bruna i l’estornell bicolor. Increïbles arpelles negres rastregen la zona a baixa alçada però sense dubte el moment més màgic el generen les parades nupcials dels mascles del sisó negre meridional, alguns d’ells observats a distàncies ridículament curtes.
Arpella negra / Black Harrier (Circus maurus), a superb bird of prey!Sisó negre meridional / Southern Black Korhaan Prínia del Karoo / Karoo Prinia (Prinia flavicans)Terrerola de cap rogenc / Red-capped Lark (Calandrella cinerea)Suimanga malaquita / Malachite Sunbird (Nectarinia famosa)Estruç comuna / Common Ostrich (Struthio camelis)Cogullada bec-grossa / Large-billed Lark (Galerida magnirostris)Puput africana / African Hoopoe (Upupa africana)Bar-throated Apalis (Apalis thoracica)
Els Damaliscs es comencen a fer presents però una de les grans sorpreses va ser una rata-talp del Cap creuant amb total tranquil·litat la pista i construint en pocs minuts un cau a la sorra tot ajudants de la seva peculiar cua. Poc després ens trobem un espectacular escurçó bufador, una de les sorpreses més benvingudes del tour!
Posteriorment ens desplacem cap a l’Est creuant immenses extensions de cereal amb un bon ventall de basses on hi ha estols gegants d’oques egípcies i d’Esperons junts amb les primeres grues del Paradís i corriol de triple collar africà. Augmentem la llista d’alàudids sumant la terrerola de cap rogenc i confiats còlits variables.
Dia 5
Des d’un luxós allotjament iniciem una nova jornada per visitar un hàbitat nou, el “karoo”, zones semiàrides per un gran nombre d´endemismes i espècies interessants. Una aturada prop del riu aporta bones observacions d’ànec negre africà, camperol del cap i varies espècies d´orenetes. Fem una breu aturada en zones de rocalloses per cerca amb èxit merla roquera del Cap, gafarró totta i observacions increïblement bones de estrilda de galta negra .
Posteriorment comencem la ruta que ens endinsa cap les zones de karoo on a pesar del vent i calor veiem espècies tant interessants com la prínia del karoo (karoo prinia), còlit formiguer muntanyenc (Mountain wheater), la prínia de Namaqua (Namaqua warbler) i papamosques follet (Fairy flycatcher).
Gafarró Totta / Cape Siskin (Crithagra totta)Merla roquera del Cap / Cape Rock Thrush (Monticola rupestris)Francolí jugular / Grey-winged Francolin (Scleroptila afra)
Cada vegada l’ambient és més sec i amb vegetació més baixa, on van sortint les diverses especialitats de l’espai: còlit alafalçat, còlit del karoo, còlit tractrac, còlit formiguer meriodinal i la prínia cararoja i un bon ventall d’alàudids com: l’alosa d’esperons, l’alosa becllarga de Namaqua , la cogullada bec-grossa i l’alosa del karoo . En un dels arbres veiem 3 impressionants astors cantaires pàl·lids i una majestuós àguila marcial. Acabem una gran jornada amb vistes d’una parella de ducs africans.
Dia 6
El primer objectiu del dia és visitar unes petites zones humides molt interessants per la quantitat i diversitat d’espècies que es poden observar. Dins el bon ventall d’ànec destaquen grups de xarxets hotentots i ànecs arboris carablancs. Als canyissars estan en plena activitat de construcció de nius els teixidors i als arbres propers ens sorprèn la presencia d’un astor blanc i negre .
Comencem el transit cap el proper espai a visitar, al Parc Nacional de Bontebok, famós no només per la diversitat d’ocells sinó que també per la població del mamífer que li dóna nom, alhora que manté una petita població de zebra de muntanya. En les primeres visualitzacions des dels punts d’observació ja veiem els primers piocs de Denham. Som a les dates en les que els mascles estan exhibint-se als leks de cria, i podem observar en directe la lenta aproximació d’una femella generant un augment de l’excitació i lluïment del mascle.
Un agradable pic-nic al marge del riu en permet fer l’única observació del viatge d’alció capbrú i queleas de bec vermell. Les concentracions d’esparver d’espatlles negres soón elevades, guadint d’excel·lent observacions d’aquests rapinyaires. Les zones amb arbres i matolls permeten cercar un bon nombre d’ocells entre els que destaquen els sorollosos apalis gorja negres, acabant la jornada amb noves observacions crepusculars de ducs africans.
Pioc de Denham / Denham’s Bustard (Neotis denhami)Xarxet hotentot / Blue-billed Teal (Spatula hottentota)Bisbe vermell meridional / Southern Red Bishop (Euplectes orix)Grua del paradís / Blue Crane (Anthropoides paradiseus)Damalisc / Bontebok (Damaliscus pygargus dorcas). Image by tour leader Sergi SalesZebra de muntanya / Mountain Zebra (Equus zebra). Image by tour leader Sergi SalesBubú rovellat / Southern Boubou (Laniarius ferrugineus)Esparver d’espatlles negres / Black-winged Kite (Elanius caeruleus)Ocell secretari / Secretary Bird (Sagittarius serpentarius)
Dia 7
El camí d’accés des de l’allotjament fins al Reserva De Hoop travessa camps amb gran quantitat d’ocells, amb bones observacions d’alàudids, corriols, grues i fredelugues. Destaquen les bones visualitzacions d’alosa bec-llarga d’Aguhlas, terrerola de capell vermell i corriol pecuari.
Un dels majors atractius d’aquest fantàstic espai natural és la colònia de l’endèmic voltor del cap els quals a pesar de la boira matinera no van tardar en fer acte de presencia. Després de rastrejar les zones boscoses on vàrem detectar espècie com el papamosques fiscal, bulbul verdós costaner, batis del cap o bubú ferruginós, ens apropem a les zones obertes i dunars.
En aquests espais oberts a mes de bones observacions dels impressionants Eland surten especies noves com les piules africanes i llise). Un espectacular escurço bufador va creuar parsimoniosament la pista davant la nostra atònita mirada.
Escurçó bufador / Puff Adder (Bitis arietans). Image by tour leader Sergi Sales
L’arribada al sistema dunar es va convertir en un dels moment màgics del tour, ja es podien veure i escoltar els cops d’aleta de les Iubartes alhora que els bufits de les properes balenes franques.
Però el llarg dia encara ens guardava un altre sorpresa, a una llarga recta s’observa una llarga silueta estesa sobre l’asfalt, després de moments de dubte al apropar-nos descobrim que un caracal estirat al terra menjant un ocell atropellat. Finalment el felí va amargar-se al marge de la carretera d’on durant poc segons va mostrar la seva cara convertint-se en un dels moment inoblidables del viatge.
Alosa bec-llarga d’Agulhas / Agulhas Long-billed Lark (Certhilauda brevides)Astor blanc-i-negre / Black Sparrowhawk (Accipiter melanoleucos)Papamosques fiscal / Fiscal Flycatcher (Sigelus sigens) Voltor del Cap / Cape Vulture (Gyps coprotheres)Cuaenlairat del Karoo / Karoo Scrub Robin (Cercotrichas coryphoeus)
Dia 8
Darrer dia de viatge que es planteja com a darrera possibilitat per poder cercar alguns dels ocells que ens havien fallat o dels que volem obtindre millors observacions. Però sobretot, matí pensat per observar una de les espècies per escasses, el xatrac de Damara. Per veure’l ens desplacem cap a una zona humida litoral on la gran sorpresa va ser la quantitat i diversitat d’espècies que ens van sortir en la carretera d’accés. Estols de grues del paradís amb sisó negre meridional exhibint-se, sumant un falcó llaner cruspint-se una presa al terra i el sempre espectacular secretari. Acabant-t’ho de rematar dos mascles de vídua de cua d’agulla intentant impressionar amb les danses a una discreta femella.
Vídua de cua d’agulla / Pin-tailed Whydah (Vidua macroura)Garsa de mar negrea africana / African Oystercatcher (Haematopus moquini)Tortoreta cuallarga / Namaqua Dove (Oena capensis)Corriol frontblanc / White-fronted Plover (Charadrius marginatus).Falciot cuablanc africà / White-rumped Swift (Apus caffer)
La visita a l’estuari es converteix es una bona oportunitat per anar farcint el checklist del tour amb varies espècies de limícoles entre les que destaca l’observació de dues sisetes cendroses i l’oportunitat de veure simultàniament els corriols grossos, pecuaris i frontblanc.
El rastreig dels grups de gavines i xatracs finalment dona el seu fruit poden observar 4 xatracs de Damara entre xatracs grossos .
Satisfacció per l’enèsim objectiu complert, ara comencem la tornada cap l’aeroport fent aturades a petits zones humides on fem el darrer intent per detectar l’única espècie que se`ns resistia, la malvasia africana, finalment un lluent mascle es va deixar veure per acabar de la millor manera possible un gran tour per la regió de Ciutat del Cap.
El comptatge final va ser de 233 espècies d’ocells vistes, entre elles 46 endèmics i 17 propers a endèmics.
All images in this trip report by Carles Oliver unless otherwise specified. All rights reserved.
Overview: 8th issue of our tour in Oman! Step by step, this wonderful country is becoming one of our classic destinations. Once more, our guests have enjoyed excellent views in all main targets including the near-endemics Arabian Grosbeak, Jouanin’s Petrel, Yemen Serin, Socotra Cormorant and Arabian Eagle Owl along with a long list of specialties including Crab Plover, Hypocolius, Arabian Warbler, Persian Shearwater, Palla’s Gull, Cotton Pygmy Goose, Hume’s Wheatear, Desert Owl, Rose-coloured Starling and Steppe Eagle. The weather has been stable and slightly warmer than in previous trips. We had a couple of windy days in the South, but with no major disturbance in our birding time. The number of ducks this year was high and well assorted, but the number of raptors was not as bright as in other years. Once more, the tour was fullfilled with scarcities and rarities. Beyond Blyth’s Reed Warbler & Lesser Whistling Ducks, we had to emphasise the self found Grey-headed Swamphen, Semicollared Flycatcher, Amur Wagtail (3rd for Oman) and Ashy Drongo (4th for Oman).
Day 1. During this day all tour participants had nocturnal flights to Muscat arriving in Oman early in the morning. This is a bit unusual, since there is normally a flight combination that allow us to arrive to Oman during the evening. This time, however, it was not possible.
Day 2. After assembling in the airport we enjoyed a small briefing while collecting the car. From there, we covered the short distance from the airport and the first birding spot of the trip. We invested 40 minutes in a lovely wetland in the sea side. Here we had a number of common waders but also some scarce species including Tibetan (formerly Lesser) Sand Plovers, 3 Marsh Sandpipers, Ruffs and several Little Stints. Here we also got the first Citrine Wagtails of the tour as well as Isabelline Shrike, Arabian Bee-eater, 7 Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouses flying over, Osprey and the only one Black-winged Kite of the trip.
From here we went to visit the small but always productive Al Ansab Lagoons, where we enjoyed Northern Shovelers, White-cheeked Bulbuls, Delicate Prinia, Grey Francolin and close views on Temminck’s Stint including extremely close views on this species and Little Stint while feeding side by side, allowing to go through the details that allow to tell them apart. The very first Indian Pond Heron of the trip showed up also here, and a few minutes later we also connected with 1 Clamorous Reed Warbler while it was climbing the reeds. A small channel beside the lagoons provided the first surprise of the trip, a wonderful Grey-headed Swamphen, a truly scarcity in the country!
Before our lunch stop, we still had time to check a last location. This time we chose a river mouth, where we had a good selection of waders, gulls and terns. While driving, a pair of laybys allowed us great shots on the very common Red-wattled Lapwings. Once at place, we had both Greater & Lesser Sand Plovers, Ruddy Turnstones, Sanderlings, Whimbrels and Bar-tailed Godwits but also the first of many Sooty Gulls & Greater Crested Terns along with Common, Caspian, Whiskered and Little Terns. As interesting, here we got a nice flock of 4 Common Gulls, a scarce wintering species in Oman.
After lunch, we still had time to check another river mouth, where we were delighted with great views on Delicate Prinia, Indian Rollers, Common Kingfisher and the 7 Squacco Herons.
We went to end the day in Al Qurm Park, where we had great views on all 3 species of Bulbuls living in the area: White-spectacled, White-cheeked and the alien Red-vented. Here we also had some Citrine Wagtails, although always mobile, and a wonderful Jack Snipe that provided great views in low, short flights as it was moving along with 3 Common Snipes and, at least, 2 Pin-tailed Snipes.
Many other species were seen here, including Clamorous Reed Warbler, Common Chiffchaff, Osprey, Eurasian Teals and a juvenile Purple Heron.
Back to the beach, we were lucky to connect again with several Steppe & Heuglin’s Gulls as well as some CaspianGulls, and we were delighted to see a Palla’s Gull walking on its own on the beach. Unfortunately, we bird was moved before we could arrive close enough to take good pictures..
Red-wattled Lapwing (Vanellus indicus), a fairly common wader in Northern Oman.Clamorous Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus stentoreous) in Al Ansab Lagoons.
Arabian Bee-eater (Merops cyanophrys), lives in small numbers along the coast in Oman.Left to right: Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus), Greater Sand Plover (Charadrius leschenaultii) & Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres) around Muscat.Grey Francolin (Ortygornis pondicerianus) in a lovely setting. Indian Roller (Coracias benghalensis), a common specialty in the Omani winters.
Day 3. Leaving Muscat behind us, this day we drove up to the Al Harar Mountains in search of some specialties. Unfortunately, it was a very windy day and our time there was decimated by the weather conditions. Still, a pair of morning walks in the top of the mountains allowed us to enjoy 1 Arabian Red Fox, a very attractive Eastern Black Redstart, 4 Hume’s Wheatears and 2 Persian Wheatears. But beyond this, we got very little. By the end of the morning we came down to the valley and, once sheltered from the wind, we scanned some large trees. It was almost before getting out of the car that we connected with a “not-that-elusive” Eastern Orphean Warbler and a further exploration of the trees around produced good views on 3 Plain Leaf Warblers and 1 female Blue Rock Thrush feeding on the ground.
After a glorious lunch in a Turkish restaurant we explored some of the wonderful gorges nearby Nizwa. Here we had more views on Plain Leaf Warblers and Hume’s Wheatears but also 2 Desert Larks feeding on the wadyplus the only Lapped-faced Vulture of the trip, that unfortunately was too fast for a proper photo. Our evening exploring the gorge extended clearly beyond sunset, hoping to connect with the extremely rare Omani Owl. But the wind was not in our side and a very light sunset brise soon became a quite strong wind that made nearly impossible any proper owling.
Back to the accommodation, we ended the day with a great dinner by the swimming pool of our hotel.
The very attractive Hume’s Wheatear (Oenanthe albonigra) on its habitat.Lesser Whitethroat (Curruca curruca), the commonest bush warbler in Oman.The impressive landscape of the Al Harar Mounts.
Day 4. Our fabolous transfer to Salalah started with an early breakfast in our accommodation. Once the car was packed we started moving, and we had our first birding stop only 20 minutes away from the accommodation. Here, in a lovely plain rich in scrubs and thornbush, we went for a stroll and we were soon contacting with a flock of 6 Arabian Babblers that showed really well, allowing us to taking multiple images as they were moving along the stream. The ambient was fresh, and despite the sun a thin jacket was welcome. Taking advantage of this, it was a nice birding activity, and the Babblers were very restless and moving fast so we had to be light in order to follow them!
Once everybody in the group was happy with the views, we kept walking through the plain. Purple Sunbirds and Lesser Whitethroats were common, and we also got good views on Persian Wheatears. 2 Tawny Pipits showed very well but, after all, the area looked like a bit empty when compared with other visits, and the most remarkable bird beyond the Babblers was a very showy Common Whitethroat of the very dark icterops race.
Back to the cars, we faced some hours of solid driving with some service stops in our way. Brown-necked Ravens and random Greater Hoopoe Larks crossing the road were the only distractions while crossing the always impressive Empty Quarter.
For lunch, we stopped in one of the most traditional stops in this way: the abandoned gardens of the Qitbit Hotel. We did not have much time, but once more this stop proved to be very productive. As soon as we step out of the car, a nice Pied Wheatear appeared in front of us, allowing us wonderful views. Promising! We ate our packed lunches and had a small stroll around, the sun was hitting hard and it was little movement, but we were lucky enough to find a nice Red-breasted Flycatcher feeding around a dense thicket. Happy with the views on both birds, we went back to the car only distracted with the calls of a couple of Siberian Chiffchaffs and Abyssinian White-eyes. From here, we drove the short distance between our lunch spot and some sewage farms in the middle of the desert.
Arabian Babblers (Turdoides squamiceps), in the typical acacia woodland that favours.Persian Wheatear (formerly Red-tailed Wheatear) is, in my opinion, the most elegant bird within its family.Brown-necked Raven (Corvus ruficollis) is a common sight in most of Oman.Pied Wheatear (Oenanthe pleschanka), an uncommon winter visitor in Oman.
When we arrived it was already mid afternoon, and the fields were filled with insectivores. We had several Isabelline & Desert Wheatears, but also good looks on Crested Larks. Even before getting inside the fields, a majestic male 2nd year Pallid Harrier flew right in front of our vehicle, providing the group with incredible views. Moreover, the bird decided to stop really close to us, and we all enjoyed the bird manoeuvring against the brise. At the same time, up to 5 Greater Hoopoe Larks were feeding around us, some of them even doing small display-like flights! It is always wonderful to see this large Larks and go through the details of their delicate plomage, often difficult to see with the very strong light of the desert.
Only a minute later, 4 Cream-coloured Coursers came to land close to us. Not happy with that, some of them started feeding around, moving closer and closer as they looked for invertebrates in the hard desert soil.
The stop was already a big success, but we decided to move a bit to the East to explore a particular spot that has been really productive several times before. There, we had the firsts Levant Grey Shrike (the aucheri race of Great Grey Shrike) and Namaqua Doves of the trip, plus a female Montagu’s Harrier circling in the sky while hundreds of White Storks were feeding on the recently harvested fields. Tens of Common Kestrels were feeding there, and we were surprised to pick up a Lesser Kestrel flying and hunting in the middle of such a mess of small falcons! Lesser Kestrel is not a particularly common Falcon in Oman during winter, and it was a real bonus for the trip!
At some point, small flocks of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouses started moving from the desert around the fields, and a small flock was about to stop right in front of us. Unfortunately, a Kestrel moved them away. A bit more of scanning produced a lovely Steppe Grey Shrike and two more Pallid Harriers before living the farms and drive the very last hour of the transfer, arriving to our accommodation a bit after sunset.
Greater Hoopoe-Lark (Alaemon alaudipes) was the very first bird that we saw when arrived to the farms!Male 1st winter Pallid Harrier (Circus macrourus) that came to say hello to our group!Isabelline Wheatear (Onenathe isabellinus) is the probably the commonest Wheatear in Southern Oman. Cream-coloured Coursers (Cursorior cursor) have become commoner in the last years. Male 2nd year Pallid Harrier (Circus macrourus). One of the 5 Pallid Harriers seen during the trip.There were hundreds of Black-crowned Sparrow-Larks (Eremopterix nigriceps) in the desert farms.White Stork (Ciconia ciconia) has moved from a big rarity to a common view in Southern Oman in only 3 years!
Day 5. Our first morning in Dhofar was devoted to explore one of the most productive spots in the country. Ayn Hamran is a shining, delightful place where to enjoy a number of the most look-after specialties in Oman, and we were directly there after enjoying a very nice breakfast in our accommodation. The morning was a bit windy, and the bird activity looked like low. Still, a few metres of walk was enough to contact with the first of many Cinnamon-breasted Buntings, African Silverbills, Abyssian White-eyes, Arabian Sunbirds, Rüppell’s Weavers and African Paradise Flycatchers. It didn’t take long before we found our first Arabian Warbler. It was the tour participant Francesc who pointed out the bird, that was feeding in a medium size thornbush. All the group enjoyed great views. Graceful Prinias were also evident, and a Turkestan Shrike catching a good morning light was also a nice adding to our list. A few yards away, a pair of showy Blackstarts were waiting for us, and a superb Black-crowned Tchagra was having a sunbath next to them. Meantime, a pair of Palestine Sunbirds were feeding nearby, and a Long-billed Pipit was doing its thing, walking only a few metres in front of our group.
We headed towards the vehicles to explore the plain before having lunch, but in the way a Chinese (Amur) White Wagtail showed up, moving along with a White Wagtail. I looked behind me but I was alone! No one of the clients followed me, as they were all distracted by the many attractive birds along the Ayn. Unfortunately, the bird moved away and all our efforts to relocate the bird were unsuccessful. It was a great sight, the 3rd record for Oman!
We combined the area with the surrounding plane, where we only found 2 Greater Short-toed Larks, several Black-crowneds Sparrow-Larks and the first Bonelli’s Eagle of the trip.
Back to Ayn Hamran we still had some more exploration, and our efforts were granted with lovely views on 2 Red-breasted Flycatchers, 1 Semicollared Flycatcher, 4 gorgeous Bruce’s Green Pigeons and good views on a very restless Blyth’s Reed Wabler, another rarity for the country that has been appearing in the same tree during the last 3 years!!
Finally we left Ayn Hamran after enjoying 7+ Arabian Warblers and 5+ Black-crowned Tchagras. Still, there were few birds of prey moving, and we only had 1 Short-toed Snake Eagle during our time there. After some relax and a coffee stop we drove down to the coast to spend some time in a lovely wetland. But first, we had a fast stop to enjoy some of the Spotted Thick-knees that live inside Salalah. As always, this tame thick-knees provided the group with excellent views and our stop was completed by a lovely sight on 5 Crested Honey Buzzards, 1 Greater Spotted Eagle and 1 Booted Eagle.
Arabian Warbler (Curruca leucomelaena) is likely to provide views like this! Note the tiny spider web in the auricular of the bird.African Silverbill (Euodice cantans), a common sight in Southern Oman.Cinnamon-breasted Bunting (Emberiza tahapisi) is the commonest passerine around the Dhofar.Long-billed Pipit (Anthus similis) provided also really close views to the group!No matter how many you have seen, an African Paradise Flycatcher (Tersphone viridis) is always a wonderful thing to watch!The always tame Blackstart (Oenanthe melanura) is also a very sought-after species for all the tour participants! Amur (Chinese) Wagtail (Motacilla alba leucopsis) was one of the surprises of the tour. 3rd record for Oman, if accepted. Red-breasted Flycatcher (Ficedula parva)Spotted Thick-knee (Buthinus capensis) close-up. A urban delicatessen in Salalah. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso. Crested Honey Buzzard (Pernis ptilorhynchus) has a small overwintering population in palm groves around Salalah.
Once in the wetland, we had a very variety of waterfowl including 3 Intermediate Egrets (recently split into 3 different species. The wintering population ocuring in Arabia is considered to be Middle Egret), 1 Purple Heron, several Squacco Heron, 1 Indian Pond Heron, Little Egrets along with Shovelers, Wigeons, 2 Garganeys, Eurasian Teals, Pintails and Common Pochards but the most interesting ducks in this stop were 7 Greater White-fronted Geese but, especially, the flock of 6 Cotton Pygmy Geese feeding in the open water along with Eurasian Moorhens + Red-knobbed & Eurasian Coots. This is one of the few places where to find this Asian species in Arabia, and this winter this was the only flock in the whole of Oman. This time there were not many waders, but along with the 400+ Glossy Ibises we had 3 Wood Sandpipers, 1 Marsh Sandpiper, Little Stints, Common Snipes, a single Black-tailed Godwit, some Ruffs, Temmincks Stint and the very common Black-necked Stilts. In the reeds we were surprised to find a Great Reed Warbler, an uncommon winter visitor and a new scarcity to add to our growing list.
We were next to the sea, and several Gulls and Terns were resting on the sand, some of them allowing extremely close views. Heuglin’s Gulls were dominant among the large gulls, with only a few Steppe Gulls here, while Slender-billed Gull was, as in most of the country, the commonest small gull. Some Sooty & Black-headed Gulls were also present. Caspian Terns were evident and offered magnificent views, and the presence of some Lesser Crested & Greater Crested Terns, an excellent way to compare shapes and colours between all of them. Beyond, we still had Whiskered & Little Terns + the very first Gull-billed & White-winged Black Terns of the trip.
The very last stop of this magical day was devoted to explore a different Ayn (the local name for the uphilled, streamed valleys). It was already a bit late in the evening, and we had little birding action beyond a couple of Greenshanks. But right after sunset everything changed and several Arabian Scops Owls started singing around us. It took us 15 minutes to get into one of them, but we got excellent views! But, even as we were enjoying the tiny scops owl, a bigger owl was already singing really close. We moved only 200 metres away, and only 2 minutes later a majestic Arabian Eagle Owl landed in the top of a tree to offered us a gorgeous view that lasted for 5 minutes! Finally, a second Arabian Eagle Owl called up in the slope, and our Owl decided to go further up in search of its partner. Still excited about this great sight, when the call of a Barn Owl just came from the valley mixing with the calls of a small flock of Night Herons. It was obvious that the night was good for owls, so we tried a improved view on Arabian Scops Owl and less than five minutes later we got a second bird singing from inside a tree!
Very happy after such a great success, we went down to our accommodation, where another excellent dinner was waiting for us!
Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleuca) by a swamp. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.Caspian Tern (Hydroprogne caspia) in the superb afternoon light typical in Oman. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.Arabian Scops Owl (Otus pamelae) singing high from a tree.Arabian Eagle Owl (Bubo milesi), once again great views in this recent split. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.
Dia 6. Still recovering from the excellent previous day, we spent the first hour of the day exploring one of the best streams in the Dhofar. Here, lovely nenufars create the perfect conditions for a number of secretive species living in the reedbeds. The place was as great as always, and within 1 hour we got 7 Bluethroats, 2 Eastern Olivaceous Warblers, 7 Bruce’s Green Pigeons, heard White-breasted Waterhen, and had some raptors including Lanner Falcon, Short-toed Snake Eagle, Greater Spotted Eagle circling with a wonderful male Pallid Harrier, plus lovely adult Night Heron feeding on a very large fish (probably too big) , the only Eurasian Reed Warbler of the trip, 4 Citrine Wagtails and heard Yellow/Little Bittern.
From here we covered the short distance to a different Ayn, and even before arriving to the place, a gorgeous male Arabian Grosbeak was waiting for us, singing from the top of a small Acacia tree. During the next half an hour we got a number of different sights as we followed the bird, that was feeding in the trees along the Ayn. It was, once again, a wonderful experience to find and watch for so long such a scarce bird, and all the group enjoyed walk-away views before being distracted by close Isabelline Shrikes, Arabian Warblers and Blackstarts.
Arabian Grosbeak (Rhynchostruthus percivali), a very scarce inhabitant of the Dhoffar deciduous woodlands. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.Our 20 minutes long sight allowed us to see some interesting details, like when came down to feed on this euphorbia.
From here, we started climbing up to explore the Dhoffar uplands. It is always a magnificent experience to be up there, and our way to the top was constantly interrumped by Eastern Imperian & Steppe Eagles but also by Short-toed Snake Eagles and Peregrine Falcon and the locally common Arabian Wheatears, Fan-tailed Raven and Arabian Sunbirds (a recent split from Shining Sunbird). For lunch, we chose a typical stop with some seats and shade (no fancy places this time), and after our packed lunches a short walk allowed to connect with 4 Yemen Serins that were feeding on the ground along with Cinnamon-breasted Buntings. They were, once again, really easy to find (especially when it is a bird that can be very hard to find out!). A further walk didn’t produce much beyond several Pale Rock Martins and distant views on Tristam’s Starlings and Bonelli’s Eagle.
Even higher, we arrived to an area of massive cliffs. This is one of the best places to enjoy Arabian Wheatears, and they were all around, even nesting in the hotel located right in the top. From here we were in search of the Verreaux’s Eagles nesting in the area, but they reluctant to show this time. For instance, we got 3 Long-legged Buzzards, Blue Rock Thrush and several Tristam’s Starlings. But the best were the 4 Arabian Partridges that Tanit found in the cliffs! A great spot in a species that has proof to be difficult to find in my last visits to this country.
Yemen Serin (Crithagra menachensis), a very shy near-endemic, that showed up superbly. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.The rather small Arabian Wheatear (Oenanthe lugentoides) was really common this winter in the highlands. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.Female Palestine Sunbird (Cinnyris osea) close up in the Dhofar highlands.Arabian Partridge (Alectoris melanocephala) overwatching the desert. Bonelli’s Eagle (Aquila fasciata) patrolling its territory.Short-toed Snake Eagle (Circaetus gallicus), one of the very superb sights during the trip.Steppe Eagle (Aquila nipalensis), full adult. Note the distinctive “joker” smile. Eastern Imperial Eagle (Aquila heliaca).
By the time we left to highlands it was mid afternoon, and the very last stop of the day was for some farms around Salalah. Here, Crested Larks looked all around but also a number of Singing Bush Larks, first singing high up but later providing the group with wonderful views as they were singing from the walls around. Here we also had Booted Eagle, 2 Siberian Stonechats, 2 Marsh Harriers, several Prinias and 17 Whiskered Tern in a lovely feeding flock. There were tens of Western Yellow Wagtails, but it looked like little else. But suddenly 2 adults Rose-coloured Starlings flew over our group, going to stop in a distant farm. We all jumped into the vehicles and drove there, and in the next 10 minutes we enjoyed great views on the Starlings but also 2 Bluethroats and 1 Red-throated Pipit calling in flight! At sunset, we counted 17 Little Ringed Plovers feeding in the plain around us.
This very tame Singing Bush Lark (Mirafra cantillans) allowed us amazing views.Rose-coloured Starling (Pastor roseus) was a rather unexpected bird in our trip!A very interesting male Siberian Stonechat (Saxicola maurus)
Dia 7. This day we went for an offshore South of Salalah. After a pair of days with strong winds, today the sea was really plain, almost like an endless lake. As soon as leaving the small harbour we had the first of many Persian Shearwaters moving North in small flocks of 2-3 birds. Both Sooty and Heuglin’s Gull were common, and their acrobatic flight was often the sign for a Loggerhead or an Olive Ridley Sea Turtle to be breathing in the surface. Moving a few miles away from the coast, we got a small flock of Terns feeding, and were lucky to discover a 1st winter Bridled Tern feeding along with 3 Common Terns. Masked Boobies were commoner than in other offshores, including a wonderful bird that allowed us great images both in flight and on the surface of the sea. Persian Shearwater came in and out as we were chumming, and a surprising Pomarine Skua appeared as well to try to steal some fish from the common Sooty Gulls! But the main character was still to show, and it took us longer than expected, but we finally got decent views on 1 Jouanin’s Petrel that was flying mid way out from our boat!
Back to the harbour we still had another encounteer with the a mixed pod of Spinner & Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dophins. Back to the harbour, a Hawksbill Sea Turtle came to the surface for a short period of time, a nice adding to the much common Green Sea Turtles around. In the shore, tens of Abdim’s Storks were resting along with a large concentration of Gulls.
One of many Red-necked Phalaropes (Phalaropus lobatus) seen during our offshoreAlways amazing, Masked Boobies (Sula dactylara) stole the show for us!One of the many Persian Shearwater (Puffinus persicus) see in our offshore.1st winter Sooty Gull (Ichthyaetus hemprichii), the commonest gull around.Abdim’s Storks (Ciconia abdimii) in lovely morning light with Sooty Gulls.
After enjoying a good coffee & tea stop, we drove back to the Dhofar highlands, to have our picnic lunches in the impressive cliffs of the areas, including a short stop to see the always impressive Baobabs of the Dhofar, the Northernmost baobabs in the world!
Our lunch time in the wonderful cliffs of the Dhofar provided us great views on a Striolated Bunting, a species that had escaped from us in the northern Al Harar Mounts.
From the highlands we were back to the Southern part of the city, where a stop on the Raysut River mouth is always mandatory. Here, we counted 17 Terek’s Sandpiper just arrived to the place! Surprisingly, the number of plovers was low, but we got 1 Steppe Eagle on the ground along with 8 Ospreys, several Gulls (including a superb Palla’sGull), 1 Pin-tailed Snipe moving along 4 Common Snipes, 14 Eurasian Spoonbills, 2 Citrine Wagtails, the only 2 Gadwalls of the trip (male and female), Garganeys, Wigeons, Pintails and a single Greater White-fronted Goose. Here we also got the first Socotra Cormorants of the trip and a good array of waders including Temminck’s & Little Stints, Grey Plovers, Black & Bar-tailed Godwits, the always impressive Siberian race of Eurasian Curlew + Whimbrels, Ruffs, Sanderlings, Greenshanks, Oystercatchers, 3 Curlew Sandpipers and the only Great Knot of the trip.
Checking the Terns resting on the beach we found 7 species: Common, Little, Caspian, Lesser Crested, Greater Crested Tern, Gull-billed & Whiskered. A funny Pheasant-tailed Jacana feeding in beach was an interesting and rather unexpected adding!
From here, a second stop was made to explore a different wetland, and the most interesting birds there were 6 Red-knobbed Coots, 2 Pheasant-tailed Jacana and some flocks of Socotra Cormorants moving South.
The very last of the day was devoted to Desert Owl, a very scarce and still unknown species, especially in Oman, where it was discovered for the first time only in 2014. Our wait until sunset was fast rewarded with 2 Desert Owls calling not far from our position, and a bit more of wait was necessary until 1 of them decided to come to its usual song rock, offering the group an unforgettable sight with the male singing only 20 metres away from us while the female was still singing higher in the slope. At the end, we saw both individuals singing in a phenomenal chorus that lasted as one of the most superb sights of the trip!!
Part of the group admiring the baobabs.Small flock of Eurasian Spoonbills (Platalea leucorodia) with some waders.Palla’s Gull (Ichthyaetus ichthyaetus) along with House Crows, Steppe Gulls, Flamingoes and Black-necked Stilt.Pheasant-tailed Jacanas (Hydrophaisanus chirurgus) were stating to develop their long, pheasant-like tails.We were extremely lucky with Desert Owls (Strix hadorami) this year. The male landed a few metres away from us, while the female was singing higher in the small cliff.
Carles Oliver
Dia 8. Today was a day to enjoy the desert and some nice wetlands. After the glorious end of the previous day, we left the coastal plain to get into the desert. After a short transfer, we arrived to the small oasis that hosts the only Hypocolius overwintering population in Oman. A first walk around the area revealed some Nile Valley Sunbirds, including a nice male, were feeding along with Common Chiffchaffs and Lesser Whitethroats (hadorami race) A lovely flock of Sand Partridges running up and down in the oasis was a lovely entertainment for us, as was a pair of confiding Desert Larks. Beyond this, the area was quiet, and it took us some time to find the first Hypocolius. A distant call put us in the way, and Carmine found a male resting low in a bush. During the next 15 minutes we watched the bird alternatively resting and feeding in a tiny bush, but we always respected the distance. Another 20 minutes were necessary for the bird to move, just in time for a small group of Polish birdwatchers to arrive to the oasis and directly connect with the bird thanks to our indications.
Finally we left, with the bird still resting inside the bush. But we didn’t go far before large flocks of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouses flew above us in search of water. The bush around had to very nice Asian Desert Warblers that were very welcome by the group, and Levant Grey Shrike, Desert Wheatear and very tame pair of Blackstarts completed the list of passerines around. Scanning the ground was not difficult to find a nice flock of 27 Crowned Sandgrouses that came to drink water in a tiny pond. As always, a couple of Eastern Imperial Eagles were closely watching the flocks of Sandgrouses..
Hypocolius (Hypocolius ampelinus). This year we found two separate flocks at the typical place. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.After 9 trips to Oman, this has been the first time to see a Hypocolius feeding on the ground!Nile Valley Sunbird (Hedydipna metallica) male catching the morning light.Desert Lark (Ammomanes deserti), always showing its satin-like plomage!Crowned Sandgrouse (Pterocles coronata) ready to drink water.
After such a good morning, we headed back to Salalah for a good meal and a short midday rest before spending the afternoon in a number of close locations. Out first stop after lunch was in a public park in Salalah. There, we had several Western Yellow Wagtail (including one individual with some characters of Eastern Yellow Wagtail..), 2 Bruce’s Green Pigeon, several Tree Pipits and Hoopoes. From here we drove to Raysut, the location where until a few years ago a massive number of Steppe Eagle used to overwinter. Once in Raysut, we scanned around and we could only find 1 Steppe Eagle, but hundreds of Abdim’s Storks along with White Storks, Red-wattled Lapwings, 2 Spur-winged Lapwings one of the funny hybrid between both species!
Further South, a final stop was made to enjoy a huge flock of hundreds of Socotra Cormorants gathering in the water. Here, we also got nice views on 2 Pheasant-tailed Jacana and 1 European Roller on a road light post.
Socotra Cormorants (Phalacrocorax nigrogularis) gather in large flocks.
Dia 9. This day we felt the wonderful Dhofar area behind to concentrate a bit in other regions of Oman. But before leaving, we still had time to check some farms in the it self, where we saw hundreds of Western Yellow Wagtails and Skylarks we could not specify which species along with Singing Bush Lars, 1 female Western Marsh Harrier and 1 Greater Spotted Eagle. Our next stop to explore some plains with a good population of Arabian Gazelles, and we didn’t have wait long before we found a small herb of 3 followed by two more of this kinda small and endangered gazelle. Here, we also got nice views on both Bonelli’s & Easterm Imperial Eagles and 3 Cape Thick-knees resting by the road. A layby stop produced nice scope views on 2 Striolated Bunting before having some solid driving until our next stop, a small coastal wetland right in the border between Dhofar and Al-Wusta regions.
Here we enjoyed our packed lunches and had nice views on the 4 shy Lesser Whistling Ducks that were found a few days earlier by another group of birdwatchers. Along with the whistling ducks we also got other interesting birds here including 1 Masked Booby, Ruff, Turkestan Shrike, 2 drake Tufted Ducks, small numbers of Wigeons and Garganeys, 1 Osprey and 2 Wood Sandpipers.
We kept driving North during the and had a final stop in another small river mouth. Here, a short walk around proved to be productive again and we had 2 Siberian Chiffchaffs, 2 Tawny Pipits, 2 Palla’sGulls, 3 Eurasian Spoonbills,1 female Eurasian Sparrowhawk, 1 Sand Martin, Pintails, Wigeons and 7 Greater Flamingoes.
From here we just drove the last miles before arriving to our wonderful accommodation.
Arabian Gazelles (Gazella arabica) climbing up the Dhofar hillsides.One of many Eastern Imperial Eagles (Aquila heliaca) seen during the trip. There were mostly young birds (like the one in the image), but also some superb adults and 1 very interesting 3rd year bird.The Frankiscense Trees (Boswellis sp.) dominates the landscape high up in the dry slopes of the Dhofar.Turkestan (aka Red-tailed) Shrike (Lanius phonicuroides). Palla’s Gulls (Ichthyaetus ichthyaetus), as superb as always!
Dia 10. After having a nice breakfast in our hotel, we just started moving out of Duqm. A first stop walking around a bushland produced nothing out of a Great Grey Shrike (auchery race) but, before living the city, we decided to check some small gardens. We were just approaching when a Drongo just flew over the van. A Drongo! A Drongo! We park the right there, in a 4 lane road (please note that in Duqm there is no traffic at all!) and jumped out to try to relocate our Drongo. It didn’t take too long as the Drongo was nicely sitting in the top of a small building right in the center of the garden. After several images and trying to have the bird from different angles, it came out clear to be an Ashy Drongo! Only the 4th record for Oman!
Delighted with this bird, we invested some extra 10 minutes in checking other gardens around, and we found Common Sandpiper, 2 Bluethroats (including a very obliging male), Yellow Wagtails and a very tame Little Ringed Plover.
Ashy Drongo (Dicrurus leucophaeus), nice surprise for our group!Obliging Bluethroat (Luscinia svecica) just by the tarmac.Little Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius).
From here we moved around Masirah island, were we had hours to check the tydal plains. Unfortunately for us, the tide was stronger than average and the birds were more far away than usual. Still we got nice scope views on 12 Crab Plovers and checking the 1000s of waders we found 2 Marsh Sandpipers along with hundreds of Dunlins, Curlew Sandpipers, Bar-tailed Godwits, some Terek’s Sandpipers, nice Greater Sand Plovers moulting to summer plomage, Gull-billed Terns, Spoonbills, Oystercatchers, Greenshanks, Redshanks, Lesser Sand Plovers, Sanderlings and Kentish Plovers along with Eurasian Curlews, Flamingoes and Western Reef Egrets to name only a few. The area is also excellent to have very close views on some common species including Greater Crested Tern, Caspian Gull and others. This time was not different, and the photographers in the group enjoyed the most!
From one of the view point over the tidal plains, we got the second Pied Wheatear of the trip (a female), but nothing else of interest.
During the afternoon we kept going North with only 2 extra stops. The very first of them was to check a typical place for Asian Koels, and we were lucky to find at least 3 of this very scarce species in Oman. They were a bit active and allowed nice images while resting into the small acacias of a tiny suburb.
The very last stop of the day was devoted to a tiny scrubland in the middle of the dunes. Some years ago we discovered this to be a nice place for Ménétriés’s Warblers, and this time was not different. This is a very skulking species, but only after walking some 100 metres we got a nice male flying away from us. Some patience was required, but at the end the male came out of the vegetation (for some seconds), allowing everybody in the group to have good views on its beautiful salmon breast
A lovely way to end a very surprising day!
Greater Crested Tern (Thalasseus bergii) close up. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.One of the Crab Plovers (Droma ardeola) during the tour. Unfortunately they were more far away than average. Greater Flamingoes (Phoenicopterus roseus). Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.Pied Wheatear (Oenanthe pleschanka)It was warm, but not for this Sinai Agama (Pseudotrapelus siniatus).One of 3 Asian Koels (Eudynamys scolopaceus) seen during the afternoon.
Dia 11. Very last transfer of the trip. This day we had only time for a breakfast and transfer to the airport. In our way, we still could enjoy 18 Indian Rollers along the first 50 kilometres of transfer, along with Eurasian Hoopoe and 2 Arabian Bee-eaters. Around the airport we had the very last (and short) stop of the trip, and we had the change for a last view on Red-wattled Lapwings, Lesser Sand Plovers, Little Stints, Dunlins and Curlew Sandpiper.
LIST OF BIRDS SEEN DURING THE TRIP
The list includes the common English and Catalan names + scientific name of all the species:
Arabian Partridge – Perdiu d’Aràbia (Alectoris melanocephala)
Sand Partridge – Perdiu del desert (Ammoperdix heyi)
Totes les fotos en aquest resum són obra del tour líder Sergi Sales. Tots els drets reservats.
Introducció: Un dels grans espectacles de l’ornitologia europea es la hivernada d’oques i altres ocells aquàtics als Països Baixos. Es tracta d’una gran oportunitat per gaudir i aprendre de la gran diversitat d’oques, cignes, becs de serra i ànecs que es concentren en aquestes dates en aquest meravellós país. Visita obligada per qualsevol ornitòleg/a mediterrani.
Dia 1 Vol d’anada sense incidències i amb arribada puntual a Àmsterdam. Una vegada dins el vehicle de lloguer afrofitem les darreres hores de llum del dia per gaudir de les primeres espècies d’interès. Ens dirigim a un espigó prop de la capital famós per l’observació d’aus marines i on als darrers dies s’havien estat observant ànecs glacials a refugi de les dures condicions del Mar del Nord. Ràpidament veiem un a la zona interna del port alhora que dos més a mar obert. Per sorpresa i a molt curta distancia, cercant menjar a la bromera del mar, trobem un escuraflascons bec-gros! Simultàniament veiem un dels escassos corb marins emplomallats de la zona, territs foscos i un desconfiat grasset de costa.
Entre els abundants gavians de potes roses es veuen un bon nombre de gavines cendroses i els primers gavinots del viatge. Dues hores de llum molt ben aprofitades!
Ànec glacial (Clangula hyemalis), un hivernant escàs als Països Baixos.Grasset de costa (Anthus petrosus) Escuraflascons bec-grós (Phalaropus fulicarius), un dels molts exemplars que van “inundat” Europa a finals de la tardor.
Dia 2 Matí fred però sense vent on el primer objectiu és cercar un mascle de morell de collar que es veu a una zona propera a l’hotel a on fem nit. Després de gaudir de grans observacions de morells de plomall, cap-roig i altres espècies d’ànecs, cau la boira i desistim de buscar aquest morell americà que no es torna a retrobar en les següents jornades. Aquí ja fem les primeres observacions de morells d’ulls grocs i tords ala-rojos. Ens dirigim cap al Sud, a on per cercar ocells sedosos. Després d’un hivern amb cert flux d’entrada d’aquest meravellós ocell, sembla que s’han anat desplaçat i els darrers dies només es veien uns pocs exemplars. La sort va estar del nostre costat, ja que vàrem trigar menys d’un minut en detectar un dels exemplars entrant a uns arbustos a menjar baies. El grup va gaudir de més de 40 minuts gaudint de 2 exemplars a menys de cinc metres de distància alimentant-se sense aturador de baies i drupes. Moments màgics!!
Després de gaudir d’un cafè ben calent per recuperar-nos de l’excitació del moment ens dirigim cap a uns pòlders ben recarregats d’energia. Tornant cap al Nord visitem fins a fer-se fosc un seguit de pòlders on ja entrem al món de la hivernada de grans grups d’aus aquàtiques. Aquí trobem grans estols d’oques de diverses espècies: oques comunes, canadenques, egípcies i, sobretot, oques de galta blanca i riallera grossa. Des del mateix punt, pero canviant l’orientació veiem masses d’aigua on hi ha números descomunals d’ànecs xiulaires barrejats amb morells d’ulls grocs. Aquí ens sorprèn l’alt nombre de becs de serra petits, dels que comptem més de 20 exemplars repartits per la zona barrejats amb els primers becs de serra grossos del viatge.
Més que satisfets de la jornada ens dirigim cap al cotxe quan de sobte entre la boira apareixen dos adults majestuosos d’àguila marina. Gran final!
Primer plànol d’un dels magnífics ocells sedosos (Bombycilla garrulus)Oca de galta blanca (Branta leucopsis). La població Bàltica hiverna cada cop més als Països Baixos.Bec de serra petit (Mergellus albellus), potser l’Anàtida més celebrada del viatge.Bec de serra gros (Mergus merganser).Àguila marina (Hieraatus albicilla)
Dia 3 Avui l’objectiu és visitar la famosa illa de Texel. Per 1 minut perdem el primer Ferry del que disposaven. Per un i únic moment no ens va agradar l’excelsa puntualitat holandesa! A les aigües properes al port es veuen morells d’ulls groc i diverses espècies de limícoles a les vores més sorrenques. Al pocs kilòmetres d’entrar a l’illa ens adonem de la màgia ornitològica d’aquest espai, a on es veuen grans grups d’oques de moltes espècies arreu, juntament amb estols mixtes de tords ala-rojos i grives cerdanes, a més d’incomptables grups de fredelugues.
En un dels prats localitzem un grup de més d’un centenar de cignes petits descansant plàcidament. Escanejant el grans grups d’oques podem veure grans estols d’oques rialleres grosses i oques de la tundra, mentre que les zones més properes al mar abunden les oques de collar i les oques de galta blanca, entre les quals apareix alguna oca de bec curt.
El mosaic de prats i aiguamolls, decorat amb les famoses ovelles de Texel fa que ja es puguin observar diferents espècies de limícoles i Anàtides. Després d’un regenerador cafè ens dirigim als famosos sistemes dunars a la cerca dels passeriformes típics d’aquests ambients. Una caminada per aquesta zona ens permet comparar la veu dels grassets de costa amb els de muntanya, fins que arribem a un estuari on passen volant un grupet de sit blancs poc abans de detectar un estol d’una trentena d’aloses banyudes alimentant-se de petites llavors. Amb elles passem una estona increïble veient com s’alimenten i van movent-se entre les dunes mentre gaudim d’uns agradables 12ºC.
La tarda comença a avançar i un bon plat de pasta ens serveix per recuperar energia i encarar el llarg transfer cap l’hotel que serà la referència per prospectar les regions de Zeeland i Nord Brabant.
Oca de collar (Branta bernicla), una de les oques més comuns a Texel.Oca de la tundra (Anser serrirostris) amb oques comunes (Anser anser).Oca de bec curt (Anser brachyrhynchus) amb oques rialleres grosses (Anser albifrons).Aloses banyudes (Eremophila alpestris)
Dia 4 La primera parada la fem per visitar els pòlders a on, de forma més o menys regular, hiverna una de les darreres espècies d’oques que ens manquen per veure al viatge: les oques rialleres petites. Desprès de prospectar els grans grups d’oques localitzem força amagats en grupet amb exemplars immadurs. En aquestes zones predominen els grups d’oques del Canadà, de galta blanca i les rialleres grosses.
Després d’observar aquesta espècie tant escassa ens dirigim cap les zones amb pòlders on es més fàcil cercar aus de caràcter més marí. Una continuada pluja ens acompanyarà la resta de la jornada, per això decidim prospectar zones visitables des del cotxe. Passem zones amb bons estols de garses de mar i becuts a peu de carretera i grups molt confiats d’oques de collar entre les quals detectem un exemplar molt fosc amb flancs blancs, una oca de collar de la subespècie nigricans, un divagant provinent de terres canadenques i resta del Nord del continent Nord-americà.
Passem per una zona on està l’únic grup de flamencs present en aquest país, i probablement provenen d’escapaments de zoològics centreeuropeus. Arribem a les famoses badies de Zeeland on hi ha grans grups de becs de serra mitjans molt actius pescant els abundants peixos de la zona, però mirant amb més detall els ocells a mitjana distància també veiem cabussons orelluts, un preciós mascle d’èider i ànecs negres. A les zones de roques de l’espigó es veuen bons grups de territs tres-dits i remena-rocs entre els quals es troben diversos territs foscos.
On trenquen les onades apareix de sobte un gran cap de mamífer, una foca grisa, posteriorment veiem un altre fins que al final detectem 3 exemplars a tocar de les roques, tot cercant refugi de les braves onades del mar. Amb aquests simpàtics mamífers arriba el capvespre i terminem una altra jornada ben profitosa.
Bec de serra mitjà (Mergus serrator)Foca grisa (Halychoerus gripus)Cabussó orellut (Podiceps auritus) al mar.
Dia 5.
El darrer matí del viatge el dediquem a cercar espècies que fins se’ns havien resistit, tot visitant zones rurals amb grans planes on aconseguim veure un grup de més de 100 cignes cantaires, aconseguint així veure totes les espècies de cignes del Paleàrtic Occidental amb l’afegitó del cigne negre provinent de poblacions asilvestrades que nien en certs punts de centre Europa.
Els mateixos camps també tenen grans densitat de llebres de gran mida, faisans i alguns rapinyaires com aligots comuns (alguns molt pàl·lids), xoriguers, esparvers, astors i arpelles pàl·lides comunes. Tornem a visitar zones del dia anterior amb millors condicions de llum on trobem una femella de morell buixot, una espècie cada cop més escassa als Països Baixos.
Els xisclets d’uns rasclons marquen el comiat a un gran viatge a on hem pogut observar 10 espècies diferents d’oques, els 3 becs de serra i els 3 cignes junt amb altres especialitats com els morells d’ulls grocs, buixots, ànecs glacials, àguiles marines, aloses banyudes, grassets de costa i territs foscos, amb el gran premi dels confiats ocells sedosos. Ja friso per tornar!!!
Resum general: El nostre primer tour a la illa de Xipre ha estat organitzat per gaudir dels ocells endèmics de l’illa així com del començament de la migració de tardor pels ocells de l’est del Western paleàrtic. El tour ha estat marcat per la calor, però malgrat les altes temperatures el pardaleig ha estat prou bo, amb bons números d’espècies migradores i bones observacions dels endemismes. Tot amb tot, molt content per com ha anat el viatge, amb els tres principals endèmics: el tallarol de Xipre, el xot de Xipre i el còlit de Xipre. Tots tres s’han observat bé, a més dels futurs possibles nous endèmics. Sumant a la llista d’espècies emblemàtiques com el francolí coll-negre, el corriol de leschenault, territ becadell, hortolà cendrós, tallarol esparverenc o la perdiu de chukar. Fins i tot sumant dues rareses locals com l’estornell rosat i l’alció d’Esmirna. En resum, gran viatge a una meravellosa illa i amb ganes de tornar-hi la propera primavera!
Dia 0 – viatge
El grup arriba ja ben entrada la nit del dia 25 a Larnaca en vol directe des de Barcelona però tot i així ens dona temps a sentir, al pàrquing de l’aeroport, el primer ocell del viatge: un torlit.
Dia 1
Ens aixequem una mica més tard del que tocaria per poder descansar i recuperar energia. A les immediacions de l’hotel i entorn de Larnaka, comencem a contactar amb espècies típiques de l’illa com són la cornella emmatellada (molt abundant), tórtores del Senegal (ocell en clara expansió), el primer aligot rogenc del viatge i una espectacular fredeluga d’esperons aprofitant la verdor de les rotondes de trànsit, cada vegada més urbà.
El plàning del 1er matí és passar la jornada a Cape Greko, famós punt cap a l’est de l’illa on es poden detectar gran nombre de “targets” del viatge però alhora punt de concertació de migrants.
La primera aturada, a un sector amb conreus envoltats de zones de màquia, ja ens aporta escorxadors aturats als cables, trenques (coincidim amb dates de bona entrada d’aquesta espècie a Xipre) a la capçada d’un arbre i els primers capsigranys emmascarats del tour.
Escorxador – Red-backed Shrike (Lanius collurio). Imatge de Salvador ParreuCapsigrany emmascarat – Masked Shrike (Lanius nubicus). Imatge de Salvador Parreu.
Són abundants les bosquetes pàl·lides orientals i els tallarols xerraires, però no sempre fàcils de veure amb claredat. Però si un ocell és complicat d’observar, és el tallarol de Xipre. Diversos exemplars escoltats a molt curta distancia però que generalment només es poden gaudir fent petits i curts volts entre els arbustos.
Aquí també s’escolten diverses perdius chukars i un llunyà francolí negre.
La temperatura ambiental puja dràsticament i a les zones amb menys vegetació del cap i petits camps del voltant descobrim diversos còlits de Xipre i 3 còlits isabelins, mentre un grup migrant de pelicans comuns passa en migració a poca alçada junt amb alguns rapinyaires com una arpella comuna, un aligot vesper i un milà negre.
Còlit isabelí – Isabelline Wheatear (Oenanthe isabellinus). Imatge de Salvador Parreu.
Pelicans comuns – Great White Pelican (Pelecanus onocrotalus). Imatge del tour líder Sergi Sales.
Després d’un extraordinari dinar iranià fem una visita a l’Oroklini Lake, a on gaudim de la primera zona humida del viatge i a on ràpidament detectem un magnífic territ becadell, una de les espècies més buscades pel grup! També un gran nombre de fredelugues esperonades i altres limícoles i, entre ells, dues sisetes.
Acabem la llarga jornada a unes petites llacunes litorals on no es veu un gran nombre d’ocells.
Territ becadell (Limicola falcinellus) i fedeluga d’esperons (Vanellus spinosus). Imatge de Ramon Grimalt.
Siseta – Marsh Sandpiper (Tringa stagnatilis). Imatge de Ramon Grimalt.
Dia 2
Per intentar aprofitar les hores amb temperatures més moderades, ens aixequem ben aviat i ràpidament estem al camp, visitant en primer lloc unes petites basses, les Bishop Pools, però el fet de que fos diumenge va fer que la zona tingués obert l’accés per visitar l’església però no pas l’espai natural. Finalment accedim caminant observant més tallarols i bosquetes migrants fins arribar a la bassa on hi ha algunes espècies aquàtiques. La sorpresa arriba al moment de tornar a agafar el vehicle, ja que a la capçada d’un arbre mort veiem un jove d’estornell rosat el qual no el podem gaudir massa estona ja que el pas d’un falcó de la reina i diversos tudons el fan volar i malauradament no el podem relocalitzar. Es tracta d’una espècie molt escassa a l’illa, amb observacions només puntuals. Al llarg del pas postnupcial es veu algun exemplar immadur.
Fem una breu aturada per esmorzar desprès de fer un primer intent a la llacuna d’Akrotiri per la grua damisel·la.
Amb forces recuperades gràcies a l’esmorzar, anem cap l’oest i fem una aturada a Kensington Cliffs , escenari espectacular on podem veure diversos falcons marins fent acrobàcies just davant nostre en un entorn fantàstic.
Falcó de la reina – Eleonora’s Falcon (Falco eleonorae). Imatge de Ramon Grimalt.
D’aquí anem a una petita zona humida per gaudir del nostre picnic. A la bassa apareix un rascletó però malauradament només es deixa veure breument. La zona és rica en diversitat ja que a més d’aus aquàtiques també es veuen rapinyaires, trenques…i grans grups de pardals de passa. Aquí també se sent el reclam d’una cuereta citrina que, malauradament no es deixa veure.
Sota un sol de justícia continuem cap a la península de Pafos. L’bjectiu principal és el corriol de Leschenaut però malauradament el passeig marítim en obres al costat de la zona dels corriols està en obres i això ens obliga a entrar al nucli arqueològic annex. Després de 3 hores llarguíssimes de buscar i intentar tindre llocs amb bona visibilitat, aconseguim detectar aquest mític limícol provinent dels llacs salats de Turquia. En concret 2 exemplars adults que fa dies que es veuen per la zona i un 3er exemplar nou, de 1er hivern. Cervesa ben freda per celebrar l’observació.
Corriol de Leschenault – Greater Sand Plover (Charadrius leschenaulti). Imatge de Ramon Grimalt.
Al vespre ens acompanya un ornitòleg local per optimitzar la cerca d’aus nocturnes. El primer que veiem és un parell de mussols comuns. Posteriorment, a un penya-segat, sentim dues òlibes molt actives, però continuem sense rastre de l’espècie més buscada, i no és fins al tercer intent que aconseguim escoltar i veure diversos xots xipriotes. Simultàniament un enganyapastors acaba de completar el paisatge sonor d’aquella màgica nit.
Xot de Xipre – Cyprus Scops Owl (Otus cyprius). Imatge de Ramon Grimalt.
Fem un excel·lent sopar en una taberna grega i cap a dormir que és mitjanit i avui han estat moltes hores seguides de birding!!
Matinada per prospectar la mítica zona de muntanya de Troödos. Allà trobem la fresqueta de la muntanya, ja que en un moment hem pujat a 600m de desnivell, i gaudim d’una temperatura sorprenentment agradable al llarg de tot el matí.
Només baixar del cotxe ens trobem envoltats pels tres dels targets de la zona: la mallerenga petita xipriota, la subespècie local de raspinell comú (totes dues candidates per a esdevenir espècies separades de les formes continentals) i el trencapinyes, ocell que del qual també s’està estudiant la taxonomia. La breu passejada ens permet veure a plaer i fotografiar aquestes espècies alhora que s’escolten contínuament els reclams en vol dels trencapinyes. Sembla que ha estat una molt bona de temporada de cria per a l’espècie. Finalment, s’aconsegueixen fer bones observacions de la quarta espècie objectiu: el gaig de la subespècie xipriota. Un bon ventall de possibles futurs splits! També podem gaudir i retratar a plaer un magnífic exemplar de còlit de Xipre mentre un falciot pàl·lid ens fa acrobàcies en un curiós vol baix entre els pins.
Mallerenga petita xipriota – Cyprus Coal Tit (Periparus ater cypriotes). Imatge de Sanvador Parreu.Trencapinyes comú (Loxia curvirostra). Imatge de Sergi SalesGaig de Xipre – Cyprus Jay (Garrulus glandarius glazneri). Imatge de Salvador Parreu.
Contactem amb el reviewer local d’Ebird, el Colin Richards, que molt amablement s’ofereix a acompanyar-nos al seu local patch, al sector d’Agia Varvara, i després a Anarita Park. Ja havíem prospectats totes dues zones en jornades anteriors però gaudim de millor observacions en algunes espècies i fins it tot en sumem alguna de nova. Després del cafè frappe de rigor (gran descobriment), anem cap a Germasogeia Reservoir, una petita zona humida i de vegetació de garriga molt propera al nostre hotel. La forta ventada dificulta la detecció d’espècies però tot i així trobem algunes de les espècies més comuns en migració d’aquestes dates i, entre mig de innumerables reclams de tallarol de capnegre (cada vegada més abundant a l’illa) sentim diversos tallarols de Xipre dels quals només fem un bona observació d’una femella. I com a colofó final, un parell de magnífics hortolans cendrosos es deixen veure al marge de la carretera.
Dia 4
Una vegada vistos la majoria dels objectius del viatge, intentem cerca noves espècies i millorar les observacions d’alguns ocells, per això matinem per arribar amb les primeres llums al Greek Cape. Des del cotxe detectem un tallarol emmascarat oriental, més contrastat que el nostre tallarol, això ens fa baixar del cotxe per viure un dels moment més màgics del viatge, on desenes de petits ocells migrants semblava que moguessin els matolls on s’alimentaven. Gaudim d’un autèntic festival de tallarols: l’esparverenc que es deixar retratar de forma notable, el xerraire, el capnegre, el de Xipre, l’emmascarat oriental i el trencamates!! Sumant trenques, capsigranys comuns i emmascarats, gaigs blaus, escorxadors, bosquetes pàl·ides orientals,…
Còlit de Xipre – Cyprus Wheatear (Oenanthe cypriaca). Imatge de Salvador ParreuTallarol esparverenc – Barred Warbler (Curruca nisoria). Imatge de Ramon Grimalt.
El fet d’arribar ben aviat ens permet gaudir de diferents estols de perdius de Chukar, alguns d’ells amb més de 20 individus.
Molt satisfets amb aquest inici de matí fem una estona a la zona del voltant de la tanca militar al Greek Cape sense massa noves espècies a afegir, i és que la calor ja apreta. Després del cafè frappe de rigor repetim visita a Oroklini Lake on ja no es veu el territ becadell però si 3 sisetes.
Fem una aturada curta a diverses zones humides al voltant de Larnaka, a on a més d’espècies més habituals, afegim curroc i gavina capblanca a la llista del viatge.
Decidim acabar la jornada fent aturada a les zones humides al sud de Nicosia, a on veiem diversos francolins, espècie aparentment complicada d’observar en aquestes dates però que en aquell espai sembla assolir densitats destacables. Des d’una petita torre d’observació podem veure a plaer un grapat de francolins, la majoria mascles quan, de sobte, apareix un alció d’Esmirna volant davant mateix de la torre d’observació. Mega raresa a l’illa que fa uns dies enrere s’havia observat per la zona però que no s’havia tornat relocalitzar. Gran final d’una inoblidable jornada!
Francolí negre – Black Francolin (Francolinus francolinus). Imatge de Ramon Grimalt.
Dia 5
Últim dia, sortim ben aviat cap al mític a Akrotiri Lake amb l’esperança de trobar alguna grua damisel·la. Però continuem sense sort i és que enguany les observacions es concentren al Nord de l’illa i són de grups en migració activa. Fins i tot amb grups grans però sense aquests quedin sedimentats per l’illa.
D’Akrotiri tornem a visitar el lloc l’alció d’Esmirna però a l’arribar, uns ornitòlegs locals ens comentem que s’ha observat un moment amagant-se dins d’una zona boscosa d’on no ha tornat a sortir. Tornem a gaudir dels francolins i apurem les darreres hores bans de marxar cap a l’aeroport visitant sectors arbustius propers a l’hotel, on a més de diversos còlits de Xipre per fi alguns del grup veiem un tallarol de Xipre amb el típic plomatge adult.
Capó reial – Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus). Imatge de Salvador Parreu.
Després d’una bona dutxa ens dirigim cap a l’aeroport a on un puntual vol ens torna cap a casa.
Molt contents per com ha anat el viatge, amb els tres principals endèmics: el tallarol de Xipre, el xot de Xiprei elcòlit de Xipre. Tots tres s’han observat bé, a més dels futurs possibles nous endèmics. Sumant a la llista d’espècies emblemàtiques com el francolí coll-negre, el corriol de leschenault, territ becadell, hortolà cendrós, tallarol esparverenc o la perdiu de chukar. Fins i tot sumant dues rareses locals com l’estornell rosat i l’alció d’Esmirna, en resum gran viatge a una meravellosa illa.
Llistat d’espècies vistes al llarg del tour (inclou noms vulgars en anglès i català a més del nom científic:
Overview: We are really happy to present you another successful 1st issue in another key birding destination. Our first tour in Poland produced excellent sights in a very good list of specialties living in the amazing forest of Bialowieza and nearby areas. Despite the rather high temperatures, all tour participants enjoyed great views on Pygmy Owl, Aquatic & River Warblers; Three-toed, White-backed & Black Woodpeckers; Collared & Red-breasted Flycatchers and many other key species.
Day 1. The whole group assembled at Warsaw International Airport after arriving from different flights coming from the UK. Once the vehicle was collected and the Warsaw traffic negotiated we had a first stop in a lovely swamp midway between the Polish capital city and our accommodation.
It was very sunny and warm but still plenty of activity. Even before parking we had a first good bird, since a splendid Black Stork was soaring low over the marshes. A short walk around produced several Sedge Warblers and Common Reed Buntings but also the best views on Common Rosefinch of the trip: a lovely male singing only a few metres away from our group. The Aspens around were having Penduline Tits, and we were soon enjoying views on the male as it was moving in the reedbeds. A minimum of 2 Thrush Nightingales were singing around, but we never saw them.
In a nearby forest we had at least 4 Icterine Warblers, even if not everybody in group had them this time. Lesser Whitethroat and Garden Warbler were also noted.
From here we had some drive to our accommodation, with a pair of Golden Orioles and Common Cuckoos flying by the minibus as we were crossing the lovely landscapes in Eastern Poland.
Common Rosefinch (Carpodacus erythrinus) showing nicely in our first stop. Image by tour leader Carles Oliver.Penduline Tit (Remiz pendulinus) is a rather scarce nesting bird in the area. Image by Carles OliverIcterine Warblers (Hippolais icterine) proved as difficult to photograph as always! Image by Carles Oliver
Day 2. Short pre-breakfast walk to enjoy some birds in our hotel grounds. First views on Black Redstart of the trip along with common beauties including Golden Oriole and Lesser Whitethroat before covering the short distance to Bialowieza.
Our first walk in the impressive forests around Bialowieza could not be more productive. Despite the heat, a walk in the forestry was fast in producing the first Collared Flycatcher and Lesser Spotted Eagle of the trip. Hawfinches were all around calling and flying, but always difficult to catch. Both Marsh & Willow Tits were seen before we followed a Red-breasted Flycatcher that was singing inside the forest. We walked 200 metres away from the path, and soon we were surrounded by some impressive 300 years old trees. A Red-breasted Flycatcher was singing really close, and after some search we were all soon enjoying great views on this bird. But right before the Flycatcher showed out, a White-backed Woodpecker called once low around our group, and only a few minutes after the Flycatcher we had good views on two White-backed’s that were calling, drumming and feeding in the canopy around us!
Back to the minibus, we had our packed lunch while enjoying more views on a gorgeous male Collared Flycatcher before moving on to our next stop.
Lesser Spotted Eagle (Clanga pomarina) predating on a frog. Image by Carles Oliver.Our first Red-breasted Flycatcher (Ficedula parva) was this very handsome male. Image by Carles Oliver.White-backed Woodpecker (Dendrocopos leucotos) moving in a mature decideous forest. Image by Carles Oliver.Collared Flycatcher (Ficedula albicollis) flying out from its perch up in an oak. Image by Carles Oliver
Eurasian Pygmy Owls have become quite common around Bialowieza, but they keep being difficult to spot. This time we were lucky, and at the moment of arrival the female was out of the nest, calling. Its calls were being answered by the male nearby in the trees, and after some waiting we saw the female leaving the nest, and joining the male in branch. The male was waiting for her with some food, and he fed her before she went back to its nest. This feeding scene didn’t go unnoticed by the several tits and goldcrests around, and they all tried, unsuccessfully, to disturb the pair of tiny owls.
We could hardly believe our luck. To arrive at the nesting place just in time for one of this feeding ceremonies is quite difficult, but our luck was not over. After feeding, the female took her time in cleaning the nest hole, removing material from former preys out the whole to prevent infections. Time to time, male and female were still calling each other! After almost one hour of sighting we left the place, fully satisfied with the quality of the slight and the impressive details on the behaviour of this enigmatic species.
Some images of the pair of Eurasian Pygmy Owl. We spent almost one hour observing them. Images by Carles OliverThe female was leaving its hole a pair of times. One of them was fed by the male.Here the male with a recent prey.
After dinner, we drove until one of the leks of Great Snipes around Bialowieza. It was the evening, a wonderful time to enjoy the bojs. A gorgeous chorus of birds was waiting for us in the place. There were Common Reed Buntings and Segde Warblers but also River & Grasshopper Warblers as well as distant Thrush Nightingale plus Marsh & Icterine Warblers. The sunset was arriving, but before we still had time to see the only one Great Grey Shrike of the trip as well as passing Eurasian Woodcocks and a hunting Short-eared Owl. But the Great Snipes were not playing the game. We gave them a long time but only a male was singing time to time, and only offered a short flight that was only a few in the group could enjoy.
Day 3. Some in the group enjoyed a pre-breakfast walk around our accommodation, resulting in great looks into River Warbler and Thrush Nightingales. After breakfast, we kept our exploration of the forests. Our first stop produced lovely views on Wood Warblers (surprisingly nesting in spruce forests!), Crested Tits, flocks of Common Crossbills and a rather unexpected European Adder in the path.
The heat was already noticeable when we arrived to a small patch of spruce. There, a nest of Eurasian Three-toed Woodpecker was waiting for us. Only a short wait was necessary before one of the adults came to the next, and during the next half and hour we all enjoyed again with the intimate views of the pair of this rather small woodpecker while coming to feed their young and marking the territory around the hole.
For over 45 minutes, we enjoyed amazing views on the pair of Three-toed’s while they were getting in and out the whole and interacting in the trees around. The forest around was full of birds, and here we got Tree Pipits, Willow Tits but also the only Eurasian Siskins of the trip. In the distance, a Black Woodpecker was calling over and over. It was definately time to move away. We took advantage of the calling Black Woodpecker and after a short scanning we had the bird moving in patch of Scotch Pines before we had a magnificent view of the bird flying across the road before stopping a few seconds in a tree nearby.
By midday we went to a lake nearby. Here we had the first views on a number of species including Marsh & Great Reed Warbler but also Black, Common and small numbers of White-winged Black Terns. Several Mute Swans were feeding, and a pair of Whooper Swan was also a nice adding to our list. White-tailed Eagles were flying around along with several White & Black Storks, Marsh Harriers, some distant Leasser Spotted Eagles and the only one Caspian Gull of the trip. Other interesting species here included European Stonechats and Red-backed Shrikes while Savi’s Warbler, Greater Bittern and Corncrake were all listened.
River Warbler (Locustella fluviatilis) showing nicely. Image by Derek Charlton. Three-toed Woodpecker (Picoides trydactilus). Images by Carles OliverThree-toed Woodpecker flanks and underwing pattern Definately not something you can see every day. Image by Carles Oliver
The temperature was high and bird activity not massive, but there were some very promising clouds in the sky.. Our next stop was devoted to explore a small park around Bialowieza. Here we had some very elusive Icterine Warblers, Collared Flycatcher and at least 2 Middle Spotted Woodpeckers.
The marshes around were a paradise for warblers, and soon we had excellent views on a wonderful Barred Warbler moving in the small trees along the walk. Marsh, Reed & Grasshopper Warblers were also noted in the area.
Our last stop of the day was in a nother small corner of marsh. Here there was an impressive density of Sedge Warblers, but also good numbers of Marsh Warblers and we all could enjoy good but short views on River Warbler. Before going back to our accommodation, a European Green Woodpecker was noted nearby.
Middle Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos medius). Image by Carles OliverBarred Warbler (Curruca nisoria) showed nicely for our group. Image by Carles OliverSavi’s Warbler (Locustella luscinoides) showing nicely during our afternoon walk. Image by Carles OliverWonderful habitat around Bialowieza. Image by Carles OliverSedge Warbler (Acrocephalus schoenobaenus). Image by Carles Oliver
Day 4. Very early start to explore the many meadows around Bialowieza. The main target before having breakfast was to find some of the 500 Eurasian Bisons living in these incredible forests, meaning the main population of this species worldwide.
This time we were very lucky, and soon after leaving the accommodation we were enjoying 3 majestic Bisons: two of them lying on the ground and the third standing up and feeding. To watch in the wild of the most endangered mammals in Europe is always a great experience! The Bisons spent most of the time eating but, as the morning, advanced, they lazily moved into the shade of some large trees, disappearing into the woods.
After breakfast, we went back to the forest, we started looking for some of the specialities that were not yet in our list. A Lesser Spotted Woodpecker flew over the group, partially offering good views to the group. We walked into long into the mature forests, with some stops here and there, until or goal was achieved. A Hazel Grouse came out from the forest, stopping a few metres away from us, up in a tree. Some members of the group had excellent views, but others simply could not locate the bird before it flew down and away from us! We still invested a long time looking & waiting for the bird the show better, but unfortunately this Grouse scaped us..
Eurasian Bisons (Bison bison) enjoying the fresh hours of the morning. Image by Carles Oliver
After this forest short walk we started the transfer to the Biebrza marshes. In our way, we had a mandatory stop to enjoy good views on Ortolan Buntings singing along with Yellowhammers. Around Bialystok we had a new stop, this time to check some fish ponds. Here there are some nesting pairs of Red-necked Grebes, and this time we counted up to 4 pairs of this superb grebes along with Penduline Tit, Great Reed Warbler, Marsh Harriers and a minimum of 2 Little Crakes that kept running and calling in the open reedbeds!
Again was very warm, so after a midday rest, we covered the short distance from our accommodation to the Biebrza marshes. An en route stop here produced more White-winged Black Terns and lovely scope views in the only one Moose of the trip, slowly walking in the marsh before disappearing inside a tall wall of reeds.
To end the day, we visited the famous woodwalk that gives access to some proper Aquatic Warbler habitat. Soon, we heard some of them calling and singing, and the cloudy afternoon provided us with the perfect setting for a good number of excellent views on these extremely scarce passerine, with only about 1000 pairs left in Europe!
We saw them singing but also feeding in the reeds covering the boj, displaying in flight and fighting each other with no mercy to defend their territories against any intruders. Here we also had 2 pairs of Montagu’s Harriers patrolling the open lands, and a good number of displaying Common Snipes, 1 Whinchat and some rather distant CommonRedshanks.
Ortolan Bunting (Emberiza hortulana). Image by Carles OliverRed-necked Grebe (Podiceps grisegena) in summer plomage. Image by Carles Oliver.Male Montagu’s Harrier (Circus pygargus) passing by our group. Image by Carles OliverAquatic Warbler (Acrocephalus paludicola) singing at dusk. Image by Carles Oliver
Day 5. During the morning we explored a series of spots to enjoy birds of prey and warblers. Here we saw a minimum of 7 Lesser Spotted Eagles along with Black Storks and Honey Buzzards.
It was again a warm day, and the large fields were fulfilled with dizzing insects and large flocks of Starlings. Some pairs of Common Cranes and Grey Partridges were also seen. A pair of stops produced good views on Thrush Nightingale and some Warblers. Before lunch we tried hard to find Spotted Nutcracker but we didn’t find anything beyond Wood Warblers and Crossbills.
Male Common Crane (Grus grus) displaying. Image Carles OliverThrush Nightingale (Luscinia luscinia). Image by Carles OliverGrey Partridges are still common in most Eastern Poland. image by Carles Oliver
After lunch we scanned the wonderful habitat around Biebrza, where after some scanning we got good views on Citrine Wagtails but also Common Rosefinch, Marsh Harrier and a very elusive Bluethroat.
The last stop of the day was devoted to visit one of the few shallow marshes left in the area, and where a few White-winged Black Terns were feeding along with some Black Terns.
Citrine Wagtail (Motacilla citreola). Image by Carles OliverWhite-winged Black Tern (Chlidonias leucopterus)
Day 6. Only 90 minutes of birdwatching before transfering back to Warsaw for our flights back home. We did a short walk in a rather random spot around our accommodation combining some marsh and a isolated mature pinewood. Here, we had a Thrush Nightingale by the path but we were distracted by many noisy Thurshes and Jays. Derek had the idea to check in the case an Owl was around, and a few seconds later a Long-eared Owl flew above our heads stopping up in a pine! Very pleased and surprised by this unexpected beauty we checked the marsh with no relevant sights, but back to the woodland we had a Black Woodpecker moving in the trees, and after it flew off we were delighted to find a nest with 2 fledgings Black Woodpeckers sticking out of the nest. Barely 50 metres before, we had a Northern Goshawk flying out of its nest up the trees and this very short walk finished with a pair of Eurasian Hobbies flying low over the woodland. Maybe also nesting there?
Long-eared Owl (Asio otus) after being moved by Thrushes. Image by Carles OliverBlack Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius) fledgings waiting for its parents to feed them. Image by Carles Oliver
From here we drove back to Warsaw to end a lovely first tour in Poland, and already thinking in coming back and enjoy the awesome birds and mammals living there!
Birds seen during the tour:
Grey Partridge (Perdix perdix)
Corncrake (Crex crex) – heard only
Hazel Grouse (Tetrastes bonasa)
Whooper Swan (Cygnus cygnus)
Mute Swan (Cygnus olor)
Greylag Goose (Anser anser)
Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)
Common Swift (Apus apus)
Common Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus)
Feral Pigeon (Columba livia)
Stock Dove (Columba oenas)
Common Wood Pigeon (Columba palumbus)
Eurasian Collared Dove (Streptopelia decaocto)
Common Crane (Grus grus)
Water Rail (Rallus aquaticus) – heard only
Little Crake (Zapornia parva)
Eurasian Coot (Fulica atra)
Red-necked Grebe (Podiceps grisegena)
Northern Lapwing (Vanellus vanellus)
Eurasian Woodcock (Scolopax rusticola)
Common Snipe (Gallinago gallinago)
Great Snipe (Gallinago media) – heard only
Common Redshank (Tringa totanus)
Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus)
Black-headed Gull (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
Caspian Gull (Larus cachinnans)
Common Tern (Sterna hirundo)
Black Tern (Clidonias niger)
White-winged Black Tern (Chlidonias leucopterus)
White Stork (Ciconia ciconia)
Black Stork (Ciconia nigra)
Greater Bittern (Botaurus stellaris) – heard only
Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea)
Great White Egret (Casmerodius albus)
Red Kite (Milvus milvus)
Common Buzzard (Buteo buteo)
European Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivorus)
Montagu’s Harrier (Circus pygargus)
Western Marsh Harrier (Circus aeruginosus)
Lesser Spotted Eagle (Aquila pom
Northern Goshawk (Accipiter gentilis)
Eurasian Sparrowhawk (Accipiter nisus)
White-tailed Eagle (Haliaaetus albicilla)
Short-eared Owl (Asio flammeus)
Eurasian Pygmy Owl (Glaucidium passerinum)
Long-eared Owl (Asio otus)
Eurasian Hoopoe (Upupa epops)
Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major)
White-backed Woodpecker (Dendrocopos leucotos)
Middle Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos medius)
Three-toed Woodpecker (Picoides tridactylus)
Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (Dryobates minor)
Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius)
European Green Woodpecker (Picus viridis) – heard only
All images in this trip report taken by: Carmine Grasso, Mark Harper & Mark Newsome (tour participants), and Carles Oliver (tour leader). All rights reserved
Overview: Our 6th tour exploring Northern Finland and Norway (Finnmark) has been one of the best so far. We enjoyed mild weather all trip long, with a single day of rain. Again, we did very in Owls and Grouses, enjoying all 5 possible species of grouses with multiple views on all of them, and 5 species of Owls plus lovely views in rather scarce species including Gyrfalcon, White-billed Diver, Three-toed Woodpecker, Steller’s Eider and Rustic Bunting. Again, the number of Redpolls and Waxwings in the boreal forest was limited, but the numbers of waders and ducks was excellent all along the tour. Once again, it has a lovely experience in the untouched landscapes of the European North Pole. We are already looking for our 2024 issue, starting on May 31st!
Day 1. This day has been basically a travel day, with little birding. Still, some of the tour participants had the time to explore the marshes around our accommodation in Oulu and got very interesting sights including Little Tern, Temmincks Stints, the first Short-eared Owl of the trip and a flock of 10 Broad-billed Sandpipers among other goodies!
Day 2. First of a row of very early starts, this time devoted to explore a number of spots around Oulu. The morning was sunny and without any wind. Even before leaving the accommodation we had views on Common Rosefinch, Reed Bunting and Common Redstart. In our first stop we had a short walk in nice spruce forest. Bird activity was low but we still got the first Black Grouse of the trip that flew off from under our feet, good flocks of Common Crossbills and the only one European Crested Tit of the trip.
Common Rosefinch (Carpodacus erythrinus) nearby our base in Oulu. Image by Mark Harper.Moose (Alces alces) around Oulu. Image by Carles OliverGrey-headed Woodpecker (Picus canus), a very unusual sight as far North as Oulu. Image by Carles Oliver
From here we got a widely known place for Terek’s Sandpiper, but we were not lucky about it and didn’t have anything beyond Common Rosefinch, Arctic Terns, Goldeneyes, a distant calling Little Ringed Plover and a running Stout.
After a coffee break we headed into a different spruce spot around Oulu. Here we were more lucky, and we had a Black Woodpecker flying in front the van just when arriving to the place. A Grey-headed Woodpecker was calling around and we took our chance to have nice views on a bird that was a bit beyond its normal nesting range. The Woodpecker was quietly sitting on the top of a dead tree allowing good and long views to everyone in the group. But after a pair of minutes latter a Hazel Grouse called from inside of one of the spruce pockets around us, so we fastly moved to the place to try to connect with it. It took us some time, as the bird kept moving up and down inside the forest, providing us with good flight views but never conceded a proper perched view.
Beyond this woodlands it is an extensive patch of farmland. Here we had the first Whinchats of the trip along with Skylarks, Eurasian Hobby, Ring-necked Pheasant, Marsh Harriers and a pair of Hen Harriers that were nicely soaring above the fields, searching for boles.
After midday break to recover a bit from the early morning, we did visit a small pond where a pair of Slavonian Grebes where nesting. Here we had intimate views on them before going for a short walk to one of bird towers around Limintahari. Unfortunately it was windy, but still we got a pretty list of birds that included 4+ White-tailed Eagles, several Mute & Whooper Swans, the firsts Little Gulls of the trip, 3 Baltic Gulls, 2 Caspian Terns, 1 Herring Gull and several flocks of ducks that include Garganeys, Teals, Eurasian Wigeon, Goldeneye, Tufted Ducks and Greylag Geese. Distant flocks of Common Cranes were moving up and down while some Sedge Warblers and Reed Buntings were seen singing despite the wind. In the parking place, a pair of Pied Flycatchers were nesting in a nest box. Wader activity was low due to wind, but still got distant views on lekking Ruffs, Common Greenshanks, some Dunlins and Common Snipes.
Stout (Mustela erminea) at the run. Image by Mark Newsome.Red-necked Grebe (Podiceps auritus) in full summer plomage. Image by Carles Oliver
Day 3. As usual in Finland, it was nice to see a fast change in the weather from the previous day. Our morning developed in a rainy ambient, with temperatures ranking between 8ºC and 12 ºC. During the morning, the main target was to contact with a number of owl species. Our first stop was devoted to check a nest box for Tengmalm’s Owl, and after a short wait we had the female coming out from the hole and showing for some minutes and it was checking that everything was okay around its nest place. From here we moved some miles away, as a next box for Ural Owl was occupied at the moment. Once arrived we were surprised by the first Spotted Flycatcher of the trip, as well as a Coal Tit that was calling around, even if never showed out. We were in a lovely clearing of the forest, and everybody enjoyed great scope views on the Ural Owl inside its nest.
The rain gave us a break, and we moved into a different location. A lovely mature spruce forest was hosting a pair of Eurasian Pygmy Owl. We already tried a place the previous day, with no luck. And this trial had a similar end. Yes, we had one of the birds shortly replaying from up in one of the spruces but, despite our efforts, we were uncapable to bring this bird into sight. It was time for a breakfast break. Around us, Northern Bullfinches were calling and feeding, and that morning we had several sights on them, as many Bullfinches were coming to the dart roads, presumably to swallow some dart. Also in teh dart roads, we had a good number of Eurasian Woodcocks flying off, with a pair of birds standing up for some seconds and allowing short but solid views. We did a short stop in a farming area, not far from the place where we were the day before, and we fastly connected with 3 Ortolan Buntings singing and calling around us. Whinchat, Eurasian Curlew and Yellowhammer were also noted around.
The weather was clearly improving as the day went on so we came back to the forests, leaving the open lands behind. The first Brambling of the trip was seen just by the van, and the only 3 Taiga Bean Geese of the trip flew above us at the moment to get inside a small patch of forest where a gorgeous female Great Grey Owl was sitting on its nest. The Great Grey Owl is not only an impressive beast, but also the largest owl in this part of the world! After several minutes enjoying the bird, we decided to take a look. The male could not be far away, guarding from any potential risk the nest and his partner. And we were sucessful in finding the male, that was about 50 metres away from the nest, up in a dense pine. Again, the group enjoyed amazing scope views and, despite the rather windy weather, the camera men in the group had a wonderful quest to capture the spirit of such an impressive beast. Here we also had Eurasian Treecreeper and the very common Willow Warblers and Goldcrests.
Great Grey Owl (Strix nebulosa) on its massive nest. Image by Carles OliverThe always very impressive Great Grey Owl (Strix nebulosa). Image by Carles OliverOrtolan Bunting (Emberiza hortulana). Image by Carles OliverBoreal Owl (Aegolius funereus) on its nest box. Image by Mark Newsome.Eurasian Treecreeper (Certhia familiaris). Image by Mark Newsome.Detail of the boreal forest. Image by Carles Oliver
After a pair of minor stops we went for a lunch stop, we hit the road in the direction of Kuusamo. A pair of stops in the way were mandatory as small flocks of Little Gulls were seen quite close, moving along with the nesting Black-headed Gulls. At mid afternoon we were already there, and we have time to explore a spot not far away from the town. Here the Mountain Hares were everywhere, but the area, an open land with small pockets of young willows, was only having Reed Buntings. When we were ready to leave, suddenly a tiny call came from the low branches of a willow, and a male Little Bunting showed up, singing a number of times from different branches. It followed a tiny peak of activity with a minimum of two males singing around and a putative female moving really low in the vegetation. We had to move a pair of times up and down in the track but at the end all the tour participants had excellent views on this little, wonderful patterned, birds.
From here we drove to the accommodation to have some rest and a bit of birding before dinner time, resulting in some Wood Sandpipers in the lake right beside our rooms, Common Cuckoo in the parking place, and Willow Warbler, Common Redstarts and the firsts House Martins of the trip as the most remarkable sights.
Little Bunting (Emberiza pusilla) feeding. Image by Mark Newsome.Little Bunting (Emberiza pusilla). Image by Carles OliverCommon Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus) in the hotel grounds in Kuusamo. Image by Carles OliverLandscape around Kuusamo by Carles Oliver
Day 4. A full day to enjoy the wonderful birding around the Kuusamo. Early am the weather was stable, but the wind started to blow after 9:00am, making birding a bit more difficult. Leaving our accommodatioin, we had the first Black Grouses of the day, as some females were seen feeding beside some minor tracks. From here we covered the short distance to a nice spot for Willow Grouse, and even before arriving we had to make a small detour as a male was seen in the top of a small rock inside a private garden. It was still a bit dark, but we didn’t miss the chance of some good shots in this wonderful and really tame male. During the next hour we had a minimum of 10 Black Grouses, all of them females, and a second Willow Grouse really close to the van. We crossed by some lakes, and some stops were mandatory to enjoy close views not only on Little Gulls and a drake Smew, but also on 5 Red-necked Grebes, Garganey and a wonderful Black-throated Diver at close range! The variety of ducks was remarkable, including Eurasian Teal, Pintail, Mallard, Tufted Duck, Common Goldeneye, Red-breasted Mergarser and Goosander.
In a different spot of the forest we had one of the typical stops, as a male Western Capercaillie was displaying in the track! Unfortunately, this time didn’t allow time for everybody to get out of the vehicle and take some shots, as the bird flew off inside the forest, followed by a female that was at the edge of the forest. We walked down the track slowly and we could hear the distant song of the Capercaillies, that unfortunately didn’t show again. Standing in this place, Mark had a song in the distance; a Rustic Bunting was singing in a small boj in the forest. We walked all the way down to the boj and carefully scanning around, but could not find any sign of the buntings. Back to the track, we suddenly had a bird calling around, and some seconds after this we had a wonderful male singing around us! The bird was really mobile but we enjoyed great views in this little cracker! Just when coming back to the minibus, 2 Parrot Crossbills flew over us at close range, offering half a second of good views on their large head and very powerful bills! Unfortunately they never stop, and kept their way above the canopy.
Female Black Grouse (Lyrurus tetrix). One of 20+ seen during the trip. Image by Mark NewsomeLittle Gull (Hydrocoloeus minutus) in flight. Great shot by Mark NewsomeSmew (Mergellus albellus), a scarce nesting duck in Lapland. Image by Mark Harper.Whooper Swans (Cygnus cygnus) feeding in farmland. Image by Carles OliverWillow Grouse (Lagopus lagopus) showing nicely in our very first “grouse drive”. Image by Carles OliverWestern Capercaillie (Tetrao urogallus) displaying. Image by Carles OliverLovely Rustic Bunting (Emberiza rustica). A single stop in Kuusamo produced Capercaillie, Rustic Bunting and Parrot Crossbill! Image by Carles Oliver
Back to the minibus we still had more Black Grouses and a pair of female Capercaillies in the road, offering of all them really good views. It was still early morning but we wanted to check a small spot only 10 miles away from the Russian border. There, large areas of dead, broken pines and willows offered an excellent habitat for another of the owls living in the region. We spent over half an hour in the place, but we didn’t get anything beyond Redwings, Tree Pipits, Mealy Redpolls and Whinchats. Finally we decided to move on, and when we were leaving our efforts were greatly granted: a wonderful Northern Hawk Owl was sitting next to the road, in the highest part of a tall willow! We took our chance, park besides and we all enjoyed long views on this wonderful bird while was overwatching its hunting area. A Fieldfare was trying to moob the owl, but the only that got was the owl to open its wings a pair of times, allowing us to see a good detail on the wing design. After nearly 15 minutes enjoying the bird from the road, the Hawk Owl decided to leave the place, flying away and crossing the open land nearby.
Extremelly happy after this extemelly nice sight, we move to Livaara, a wonderful hill that oversees the extensive forests around Kuusamo. But we still had to do another stop in way, since Mark (yes, it was more than one Mark in the tour) found a Hazel Grouse nicely posing beside the road!! From inside the van, we all had incredible views, with the lovely morning sun illuminating the game bird. As it moved, a female appeared beside the male, and both male and female moved for a pair of minutes before getting away, back inside the boreal forest. Very happy after this, we covered the short distance to Livaara. Once arrived, we were surprised by a very intense Woodpecker activity. Firstly, a Great Spotted Woodpecker that was feeding immediatly around the parking place, and secondly a wonderful Black Woodpecker that appeared from the forest, displaying and calling. It was already cloudy and a bit windy so to see these Woodpeckers behaving like this was quite a surprise, especially when the Black Woodpecker decided to gly our way, stopping only 50 metres away from our group, offering another unforgettable sight!
The wind was getting serious, especially in the highest part of the hill. Still, we decided to walk a bit. We never reached the top of the hill (a famous place for Red-flanked Bluetail) as the bird activity was clearly very low. Still, in our short-walk around the parking place we got nice views on a passing by White-tailed Eagle and a second pair of Rustic Buntings as a nice end of a magic morning!
Back to the accommodation, we still had some time for rest before having lunch.
During the afternoon the weather deteriorated fast, with strong winds affecting especially the higher parts of Kuusamo. We invested a pair of hours exploring a pair of spots, but we got nothing of interest beyond the common species living in this part of the world so decided to have an early dinner.
Northern Hawk Owl (Surnia ulula). Image by Carles OliverA couple of Hazel Grouses (Tetrastes bonasia) by the minivan was one of the highlights of the day. Image by Carles OliverThis Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius) offered us amazing and really unexpected views when around Limahara. Another great shot by Mark Newsome.Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius). Image by Carles OliverBlack-throated Diver (Gavia arctica) around Kuusamo. Image by Carles Oliver
Day 5. Another early start to explore some of the hills around Kuusamo. Our first stop was devoted to explore Valatavaara, where it was going on a mountain race. Bird activity was quite low, but when arrived to the summit we had good views on a singing Common Cuckoo + Common Redstart and Dunnock. It didn’t take long before we contacted with the our first Three-toed Woodpecker that gave us excellent views while calling and moving up in a dead tree. Besides, a Great Spotted Woodpecker was also calling, and it was interesting to compare the calls of both species. Our walk kept going, adding lovely views on Tree Pipits and Spotted Flycatchers. A bit more of time was required to find a pair of Siberian Jays that, after moving quite high in the trees for a while, finally decided to come down. At some point, we had only a few meters away! Moving around the area we had a second Three-toed Woodpecker working the wood, but went away quite fast and not everybody in the group saw it. We still listened them drumming and calling several times! After a good pair of hours, it was quite clear that we were not going to have any Bluetail at Valtavaara so we decided to move away from here to try a second spot. After some breakfast, we drove the short distance and went to explore another section of boreal forest. We again enjoyed of the views above the endless forest that covers this region of Finland. And here we had more luck, and we listened a male Red-flanked Bluetail singing from the top of a distant spruce. The effort was worth it, especially when the bird moved into a different spruce where it caught the wonderful morning light! There we had 20 minutes to enjoy the bird, while a second Bluetail was singing around us.
Once everyone was satisfied with the views on these wonderful Bluetails, we came down the hill. Including a pair of stops for lunch and coffee, we had some solid drive North to the area around Ivalo.
Capercaillie (Tetrao urogallus) female showing its wonderful camouflage. Image by Mark NewsomeThree-toed Woodpecker (Picoides tridactylus) posing nicely for our group. Image by Carles OliverSiberian Jays (Perisoreus infaustus) were as approachable as always. Image by Mark NewsomeRed-flanked Bluetail (Tarsiger cyanurus). Image by Carles OliverThe amazing landscape of the boreal forest around Kuusamo. Image by Carles Oliver
We were already inside Lapland and the North Polar Circle. Here, extensive boreal forests can be found all around. Before covering the short distance to our accommodation in the area we spent an hour and so in a lovely corner. In teh way, more Willow Grouses were visible along with Black Grouses. A pair of stops in selected places produced lovely views on obliging Siberian Tit, a highly appreciated speciality in this trip. Along with it we scanned the several Common Crossbill around in search for something different. Three-toed Woodpeckers were also active, and we could listen them drumming and had a glimpse in one of them while moving in the forest.
After this we just drove to our accommodation for some rest and a good evening meal!
Siberian Tit (Poecile cinctus) possed nicely for the group. Image by Mark HarperWood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola) in its nesting grounds. Image by Carles OliverPine Grosbeak (Pinicola enucleator) despite the rain. Image by Carles Oliver
Day 6. A rainy day this morning, so an excellent chance to enjoy our the amazing buffet breakfast in our hotel at Ivalo. After breakfast we transfer North, with a mandatory stop in a popular coffee stop to enjoy the amazing Pine Grosbeak that attend the feeding station nearby. Here we also had good views on drake Bramblings but also Common Redpolls, Greenfinches, several Red Squirrels and a Waxwing that showed up just when we were leaving the coffee shop.
The day was wet and cold, but a pair of stops still produced the first Bluethroat of the trip along with Siberian Jay crossing the road. Here is where, stopping by the road, we had one of the best moments of trip. A walk inside a woodland of low willows allowed good views on Arctic Redpolls. It was dropping and the display of two displaying Common Snipes arrived to us from the nearby boj when a call came from inside the forest. A fast scanning in the area revealed not less than a Northern Hawk Owl that was hatching in a nest box, only a few meters away from the path! After some minutes of excitement the call came again from inside the forest, and it was not coming from the nest box. It was obvious that the male was around. A bit of scanning and exploring the forest was necessary before we found the male perched up in a tree. It was extremely quiet, only 15 metres away from us. Actually, it was so chill out that, at some point, it decided to fly down from the tree to stop only 10 metres away from us, in the top of a dead and broken willow. There, under the light rain, we got one of the most amazing sights of all the tours that we have had in Finland! Some were taking photos, while some participants just decided to sit down and enjoy the moment.. After 20 unforgettable minutes we decided to move away, back to minibus. The male still on its trunk, the female hatching. Without doubt one of my best experiences in the taiga, so far!
Northern Hawk Owl (Surnia ulula). Images by Carles OliverA pair of Bohemian Waxwing (Bombycilla garrulus) was nesting around our accommodation. Image by Carles Oliver
Back to the van, we all honestly needed some time to recover from this amazing experience, and later on we kept moving North, still with the ecos of the very low calls of the male in our heads. After a lunch stop, we arrived in Varanger by early afternoon. In our way we had several White-tailed Eagles moving along the coast line, and a good number of Rough-legged Buzzards looking for boles all along the road.
The coast along Varanger is a truly paradise for wildlife, and this unspoiled landscape is till preserving good densities of a long list of birds nesting all along its tundra and boj. A fast stop road allowed us to enjoy the first Kittiwakes of the trip, but also Dunlin, Temminck’s Stints, Redshanks, Bar-tailed Godwit and Ruddy Turstone.
The first proper stop in the fjord could no be better. As always there were several Goosanders, Red-breasted Mergansers and tens of Common Eiders along with many waders. We knew that some Steller’s Eiders were around, and Mark found them after a proper scan of the shore! There were two 2nd year males and one female. No bright colours then for the group (not yet) but still Steller’s Eiders!
Walking the short distance until an advantaged point, we enjoyed very long views on the birds as they moved a bit in the shore, being moved sometimes by the much larger Common Eiders. Here we also had the first Purple Sandpiper of the trip and Eurasian Whimbrel.
After we found the most important items of the afternoon, we went to enjoy of the many Phalarope ponds that are in this area to end our day with the amazing experience of 20 of this Nordic gems feeding only a few meters away from us. They arrived to their nesting grounds only a few days before, and they were extremely busy feeding on insects to recover from the long journey. They were all very excited, and we saw at least three different mating during the hour and so that we were there.
Arctic Terns (Sterna paradisaea). Image by Mark Newsome.Some urban Mountain Hares (Leppus timidus). Image by Mark NewsomeTundra Bean Geese (Anser serrirostris) by Carles OliverRed-necked Phalarope (Phalaropus lobatus) female (up) & male (below) by Carles Oliver
Day 7. A cloudy and fresh day, a nice weather to explore the Arctic landscapes with small windows of sun and with only a few drops of rain during the day. After breakfast we drove North to check one of the many bays along the coast in Varanger. But before we had a stop when crossing Vadso, since 3 Steller’s Eiders (the same three birds of the previous afternoon?) were feeding close to the shore along with Common Eiders. Here really improve the views on them as well as enjoying 30 Purple Sandpipers in the rocks.
Our first proper stop didn’t produce so much. Here there were recent reports of close views on a White-billed Diver, but we couldn’t find it. Still, the spot allowed us to connect with the firsts Long-tailed Ducks, Guillemots, Black Guillemots and Red-throated Divers of the trip, all of them common birds along this coast.
From here we drove to Vardo and wait for the boat connecting with Hornoya. After some waiting, we finally got the boat and cover the short distance out the bay of Vardo before arriving by the massive cliffs of the island.
Hornoya is the Easternmost point in Norway and hosts one of the most amazing seabird colony in Europe. Between March and July, the island concentrates between 150,000 and 180,000 sea birds, depending on the year. About 75,000 pairs of birds nest here including 40,000 pairs of Common Guillemots, 8,000 of Atlantic Puffin and about 5,000 of Brünnich’s Guillemot! Both the ambient of the colony, the extremely loud noise plus the incredible density of birds on its cliffs are not easy to forget for any visitor!
We landed in the island, and it was not long before we had the firsts Brünnich’s nesting up the in cliff. Small pockets of them can be found, always surrounded and outnumbered by Common Guillemots (including several from the smart Bridled form) and Razorbills.
Atlantic Puffins were everywhere in the lowest areas, and Shags and Kittiwakes were taking advantage of every single cavity, terrace or even bank, to nest on. The walk around the island also produced both Meadow & Red-throated Pipit, Bluethroat, Twite Arctic Skua, Barnacle & Greylag Geese, Rock Pipits, Goosanders and, of course, Redwings.
A bit of seawatching produced a few Atlantic Gannets going North and the first of a bunch of whales; a Minke Whale.
White-tailed Eagle (Haliaaetus albicilla). image by Carles OliverCommon Guillemots (Uria aalge) in Hornoya. Images by Carles OliverBrünnich’s Guillemots (Uria lomvia) by Carles OliverAtlantic Puffin (Fratercula arctica) by Carles Oliver
From Hornoya we kept moving North, stopping in the tundra to search for some species we fastly connect with some wonderful Lapland Buntings in full summer plomage and the very firsts Ruff lekking in short grass while both European Golden Plovers and Arctic Skuas were also ready to nest around.
Soon, the lane stick to the shore and several flocks of Goosanders start to appear. Here, Mark sharply spotted a number of whales. Most of them turned out to be Fin Whales, but a at least two of them were Humpback Whales! After some good views on them we kept driving North, but soon we had to stop again: a drake White-billed Diver was really close to the coast, offering great looks to all the tour participants. This is a good time of year to try to see them, as they are migrating North (!) to arrive to their nesting sites. Depending on the year, one or two non-breeding birds may stay in the area!
While scanning the harbour, another 2 White-billed Divers (one of them a 2nd year bird) were found, as well as a 6 Red-throated Divers, several flocks of Long-tailed Ducks and 2 Grey Seals. From here, we started a slow way back enjoying some views on Willow Grouse, Twite and more whales!
Back around Vardo, we still had two more stops in the way back to the accommodation. The first as 4 Pink-footed Geese were feeding nearby the road, and the second stop because of 2 wonderful Short-eared Owls that were chasing each other over the farmland next to the road. Here we were specially lucky as one of them just decided to stop next to our minibus, allowing us to capture some incredible image. Definately not a bad way to end our day!
Lapland Bunting (Calcarius lapponicus). Image by Carles OliverRuff (Calidris pugax) ready to lek in the tundra. Image by Carles OliverWhite-billed Diver (Gavia adamsi) in full summer plomage. Image by Mark Newsome.White-tailed Eagle being moved by a apir of Arctic Skuas. Image by Mark Newsome.Fin Whale (Balaenoptera physalus). Image by Mark Newsome.Humpback Whale (Megaptera novaeangliae). Image by Mark NewsomeShort-eared Owl (Asio flammeus). Image by Carles Oliver
Day 8. A pre-dawn walk produced nice views on the typical coastal birds around our accommodation, and Mark Newsome had a full adult Heuglin’s Gull (currently considered as a race of Lesser black-backed Gull), a quite unexpected species in this area!
This day we transfered to the inner Varanger, where the tundra becomes a wonderful carpet that covers the whole plateau, with plenty of rocky outcrops, lakes and deep valleys that mark the distribution of the many goodies nesting here.
But before we had a small stop South of Ekrenoy, where a French gentleman had a drake Steller’s Eider the day before. At the first attemp Carmine had a small flock of 4 Steller’s Eider appearing from behind some rock, and there was our wonderful drake male offering some wonderful views while feeding along with 3 females! The birds kept coming closer and closer, and the rather intimates views paid off the time that we spent waiting for them in the rather cold ambient.
From here we drove all the way to the central plateau in Varanger, where a first stop produced the first views on lovely Long-tailed Skuas, several Arctic Redpolls and good views on the very splendid Bluethroats nesting in the area. From here we went to check a number of spots where the very sought after GyrFalcon is likely to appear. In our second stop, we found a pair of these massive falcons in a small cliff showing clear nesting signs.
We had scope views on both the male and the female while resting in the cliffs. At some point, the male flew off, circling in the sky to powerfully fly into the cliffs, probably in the chase of any potential prey.
Heuglin’s Gull (Larus fuscus heuglini) by Mark NewsomeAwesome views on Steller’s Eiders (Pollysticta stelleri)Long-tailed Skua (Stercorarius longicaudus) by Mark Newsome.Bluethroat (Luscinia svecica) singing its heart out. Image by Carles OliverArctic Redpoll (Acanthis hornemanni) by Mark NewsomeGyrfalcon (Falco rusticolus). Images by Carles Oliver
After this incredible sight we kept exploring the tundra, adding close views on Black-throated & Red-throated Diver to our list. Red-throated Pipits were singing around and a pair of Shore Larks was found feeding along one of the lanes. In the roocky outcrops, we enjoyed up to 4 Rock Ptarmigans showing out its white plomage. We even had some display flights, and their rocky calls contrasted with the happy display songs of both European Golden Plovers and Dunlins that full filled the ambient. Some Snow Buntings were also noted, but only a female provided the group with more or less close views. Just the opposite from Lapland Buntings, that looked like being as common as ever, with some males walking really close to the prominent Long-tailed Skua nests.
At the end of the afternoon, we got a pair of Rough-legged Buzzards hunting by one of the lanes, providing great views and the day ended with some scanning of large gulls in the search of any scarcity, and with some Willow Grouse by the lane before arriving to our accommodation.
Rock Ptarmigan (Lagopus mutus). Image by Carmine GrassoThis afternoon we had splendid views on Rough-legged Buzzards (Buteo lagopus). Image by Mark NewsomeThe impressive landscape in the highest area of Varanger. Image by Carles Oliver
Day 9. During the morning we explored a bit further the tundra, adding better views on Snow Finch, Long-tailed Skuas, Red-throated Pipits, as well as enjoying with the display and close views on Red-throated Divers, Ruff and Scaups. We spent some time in a small stream where in previous years we had Dipper, but we failed to find any of the. For instance, the only one Peregrine Falcon of the tour appeared in the gorge. Back to the tundra, we had 2 Bar-tailed Godwits flying low over the area, an interesting sight since they are not supposed to nest here. At midday we started the transfer back South, and we spent the rainy afternoon in our accommodation.
Red-throated Pipit (Anthus cervinus) in flight display. Image by Mark Harper.Obliging Ruff (Calidris pugnax) by Mark Newsome.Long-tailed Skua portrait (Stercorarius longicaudatus). Image by Carmine Grasso. European Golden Plover (Pluvialis apricaria) in nesting grounds. Image by Carmine Grasso.
Day 10. This day we took advantage of our midday flight to have a last am in proper boreal forest. Unfortunately we had a cold morning with a heavy snow fall. It was actually the first snow fall ever in this trip. Still, we had a good pair of hours, and a nice short walk in the forest produced several Common Crossbills, a feeding pair of Bohemian Waxwings and a nice male Parrot Crossbill that showed quite properly in the top of a spruce along with several Bramblings, Mealy Redpolls and Eurasian Siskins.
The drive around this spot South of Ivalo produced also a minimum of 7 Black Grouses, including 6 males moving together and a female Western Caspercaillie nicely flying beside the minibus and showing the lovely peachy patch on its breast.
After a pair of hours of birding we went to enjoy a coffee and some food before heading to airport while the landscape was being covered by a massive snow fall! Without doubt, a great way to end our 2023 trip in Finland!
Black Grouse (Lyrurus tetrix). Several males were active in the boreal forest during our last morning. Image by Mark Newsome.Parrot Crossbill (Loxia pytyopsittacus). Image by Mark Newsome.
List of birds seen during the trip:
Red-throated Diver (Gavia stellata)
Black-throated Diver (Gavia arctica)
Yellow-billed Diver (Gavia adamsii)
Great Crested Grebe (Podiceps cristatus)
Red-necked Grebe (Podiceps grisegena)
Slavonian Grebe (Podiceps auritus)
Atlantic Gannet (Morus bassanus)
Great Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo)
Atlantic Shag (Phalacrocorax aristotelis)
Great White Egret (Casmerodius albus)
Whooper Swan (Cygnus cygnus)
Mute Swan (Cygnus olor)
Common Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna)
Greylag Goose (Anser anser)
Tundra Bean Goose (Anser serrirostris)
Taiga Bean Goose (Anser fabalis)
Pink-footed Goose (Anser brachyrhynchus)
Barnacle Goose (Branta leucopsis)
Eurasian Wigeon (Mareca penelope)
Gadwall (Mareca strepera)
Eurasian Teal (Anas crecca)
Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)
Pintail (Anas acuta)
Northern Shoveler (Spatula clypeata)
Garganey (Spatula querquedula)
Tufted Duck (Aythya fuligula)
Greater Scaup (Aythya marila)
Common Eider (Somateria mollissima)
Steller’s Eider (Polysticta stelleri)
Long-tailed Duck (Clangula hyemalis)
Common Scoter (Melanitta nigra)
Goldeneye (Bucephala clangula)
Smew (Merguellus albellus)
Goosander (Mergus merganser)
Red-breasted Merganser (Mergus serrator)
Black Kite (Milvus migrans)
Hen Harrier (Circus cyaneus)
Western Marsh Harrier (Circus aeruginosus)
Eurasian Sparrowhawk (Accipiter nisus)
Northern Goshawk (Accipiter gentilis) — heard only
Common Buzzard (Buteo buteo)
Rough-legged Buzzard (Buteo lagopus)
Osprey (Pandion haliaetos)
White-tailed Eagle (Haliaeetus albicilla)
Eurasian Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus)
Eurasian Hobby (Falco subbuteo)
Merlin (Falco columbarius)
Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus)
Gyrfalcon (Falco rusticolus)
Hazel Grouse (Tetrastes bonasa)
Willow Grouse (Lagopus lagopus)
Rock Ptarmigan (Lagopus mutus)
Black Grouse (Lyrurus tetrix)
Western Capercaillie (Tetrao urogallus)
Common Crane (Grus grus)
Eurasian Oystercatcher (Haematopus ostralegus)
Common Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula)
Little Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius) — heard only
Eurasian Golden Plover (Charadrius apricaria)
Northern Lapwing (Vanellus vanellus)
Temminck’s Stint (Calidris temminckii)
Little Stint (Calidris minuta)
Red Knot (Calidris canutus)
Purple Sandpiper (Calidris maritima)
Ruff (Calidris pugnax)
Broad-billed Sandpiper (Limicola falcinellus)
Eurasian Woodcock (Scolopax rusticola)
Common Snipe (Gallinago gallinago)
Bar-tailed Godwit (Limosa lapponica)
Black-tailed Godwit (Limosa limosa)
Eurasian Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)
Eurasian Curlew (Numenius arquata)
Common Redshank (Tringa totanus)
Greenshank (Tringa nebularia)
Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola)
Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus)
Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos)
Ruddy Turstone (Arenaria interpres)
Red-necked Phalarope (Phalaropus lobatus)
Arctic Skua (Stercorarius parasiticus)
Long-tailed Skua (Stercorarius longicaudus)
Little Gull (Hydrocoloeus minutus)
Black-headed Gull (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
Common Gull (Larus canus)
Great Black-backed Gull (Larus marinus)
Herring Gull (Larus argentatus)
Lesser Black-backed Gull (Larus fuscus)
Kittiwake (Rissa tridactyla)
Common Tern (Sterna hirundo)
Arctic Tern (Sterna paradisaea)
Little Tern (Sternula albifrons)
Caspian Tern (Hydroprogne caspia)
Guillemot (Uria aalge)
Brünnich’s Guillemot (Uria lomvia)
Razorbill (Alca torda)
Black Guillemot (Cepphus grylle)
Atlantic Puffin (Fratercula arctica)
Feral Pigeon (Columba livia)
Stock Dove (Columba oenas)
Common Wood Pigeon (Columba palumbus)
Common Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus)
Short-eared Owl (Asio flammeus)
Tengmalm’s Owl (Aegolius funereus)
Great Grey Owl (Strix nebulosa)
Ural Owl (Strix uralensis)
Northern Hawk Owl (Surnia ulula)
Common Swift (Apus apus)
Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major)
Three-toed Woodpecker (Picoides tridactylus)
Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius)
Grey-headed Woodpecker (Picus canus)
Skylark (Alauda arvensis)
Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris)
Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica)
Western House Martin (Delichon urbicum)
Tree Pipit (Anthus trivialis)
Meadow Pipit (Anthus pratensis)
Red-throated Pipit (Anthus cervinus)
Rock Pipit (Anthus petrosus)
White Wagtail (Motacilla alba)
Western Yellow Wagtail (Motacilla flava)
Bohemian Waxwing (Bombycilla garrulus)
Dunnock (Prunella modularis)
Eurasian Robin (Erithacus rubecula)
Bluethroat (Luscinia svecica)
Red-flanked Bluetail (Tarsiger cyanurus)
Common Redstart (Phoenicurus phoenicurus)
Whinchat (Saxicola rubetra)
Spotted Flycatcher (Muscicapa striata)
European Pied Flycatcher (Ficedula hypoleuca)
Northern Wheatear (Oenanthe oenanthe)
Fieldfare (Turdus pilaris)
Song Thrush (Turdus philomelos)
Eurasian Redwing (Turdus iliacus)
Mistle Thrush (Turdus viscivorus)
Eurasian Blackbird (Turdus merula)
Sedge Warbler (Acrocephalus schoenobaenus)
Eurasian Blackcap (Sylvia atricapilla) — heard only
Número de participants: 11 + 2 tour líders (Carles Oliver & Sergi Sales)
Número d’espècies observades: 88
Prefaci: Els OrnitoReptes són les sortides de descoberta ornitològica que organitzem conjuntament Barcelona Birding Point, Birding Catalunya i la Fundació Plegadis. A continuació us presentem la crònica del nostre OrnitoRepte més agosarat, que va estar força marcat per la meteorologia. El vendaval del dissabte va fer molt difícil i poc comfortable l’observació d’aus, amb unes condicions en les que amb prou feines es podia sortir dels vehicles ni obrir les finestres. Parar un trípode o fer un passeig eren missions pràcticament suïcides! Però, malgrat tot, vam aconseguir trobar i gaudir de les espècies més essencials dels hàbitats que vam explorar. El diumenge, com a compensació, vam gaudir d’unes condicions gairebé ideals a l’estepa i vam poder observar molt bé les diferents espècies que allà hi viuen. Ja de tornada, un seguit de parades ens van proporcionar bones observacions d’un seguit d’espècies que a alguns dels participants se’ls hi havien resistit al llarg de força temps com el colltort o la tallareta cuallarga!
Dia 1. Un cop el grup es va trobar als afores de Barcelona ens vam dirigir cap a Fraga, a on teníem estrablert un segon punt de trobada per a aquells clients que així ho volguessin. Ja que el segon punt de trobada era un restaurant vam aprofitar per esmorzar una mica, només faltaria! A fora, el vent ja bufava de valent, fent preveure una jornada d’allò més complexa.
D’aquí ens vam dirigir a explorar les extenses zones de conreu de secà amb racons d’estepa natural que s’estenen entre Fraga, Candasnos i Alcolea de Cinca. Només arribar a la primera zona a explorar ja vam poder veure algunes terreroles comunes i calàndries. Al llarg del cap de setmana les observacions van anar millorant fins que tothom les va poder veure força bé. Vam provar de fer una parada i explorar la zona a peu, però el fort vent no ho feia gens agradable era poc productiu, així que vam tornar als vehicles amb només un grapat de caderneres i alguna calàndria passa volant.
Terrerola comuna (Calandrela brachydactyla). Imatge de Gerard Sauret.
Tot continuant l’exploració amb els vehicles no vam trigar gaire a observar el primer estol de xurres en vol. Hi volaven 4. Semblaven haver sortit d’un rostoll a prop de nosaltres i tot repassant el camp amb els binocles vam poder trobar una parella alimentat-se al terra que malauradament va sortir volant abans que tothom les pogués gaudir. Com que totes semblaven dirigir-se cap al mateix sector ens vam apropar, amatents de qualsevol moviment.
Un cop a la zona a on semblava que les xurres s’havien aturat, no vam trobar a relocalitzar-les, però novament van tornar a sortir volant, aquest cop oferint bones observacions a tots els membres del grup!
El vent continuava bufant de debó, però com a mínim ja teníem les xurres al sarró. Vam continuar explorant la zona, gaudint de cogullades fosques, milans negres i de la primera d’un bon grapat d’esmerles al llarg dels dos dies del viatge. Una mica més enllà el Robert va trobar el primer tallarol trencamates de la sortida, i tothom al primer vehicle va poder gaudir de molt bones observacions malgrat el vent. Mestrestant, al segon vehicle es conformaven amb un trobat que es deixà fer molt.
Malgrat el vent, el dia semblava bo per a rapinyaires i no vam trigar a tenir-ne la prova quan una àguila daurada va aparèixer sobre un petit turó i va anant perdent alçada fins aturar-se a sotavent d’un petit arbust en un observació força maca en la vam poder gaudir de la bona maniobrabilitat d’aquests ocells en situacions de vent fort com la que estàvem experimentant.
Una mica més enllà ens vam aturar per explorar uns tallats i no vam trigar gaire a gaudir de molt bones observacions d’aufrany però també de ballesters passa volants i cotxa fumada. La sort va fer que un aufrany decidís aturar-se ben a prop nostre, oferint bones oportunitats fotogràfiques.
Xurres (Pterocles orientalis) en vol sobre un guaret. Imatge de Gerard Sauret. Aufrany (Neophron percnopterus) a punt d’aterrar. Imatge de Joan Oliver Manen.Aufrany des del quer. Imatge de Joan Oliver Manen
Tot amb tot ja havia passat bona part del matí així que vam decidir de tornar al punt a on havíem aparcat quasi tots els vehicles i vam marxar cap a l’Oest. De camí, nombrosos milans negres i aligot comuns ens observàvem. Vam arribar a la zona de Bujaraloz cap a l’hora de dinar i un cop amb l’estómac ple vam començar a explorar les immenses planes que rodegen aquest peculiar poble.
Només sortir del restaurant es va fer palés que el vent no només no afluixava, sinó que anava a més. A la sortida de Bujaraloz vam poder veure un parell de estols de xoriguers petits alimentant-se als camps del voltant a més de terreroles comunes i rogenques. Vam començar a cercar la petita població de piocs de la zona, amb molta atenció als diferents llocs típics per a l’espècie en aquesta època de l’any. Aquí i allà vam trobar còlits grisos i diferents estols de gralles i gralles de bec vermell que, preferiblement, s’alimentaven als guarets de la zona. Poc després vam localitzar un grup de xurres que s’alimentaven a prou distància per poder observar-les al terra sense molestar-les i tot el grup va poder gaudir de bones observacions, tot i que mantenir el telescopi dret era quasi una proesa i alguns van preferir continuar gaudint de l’escalfor de la furgo.
Però anava passant la tarda i els piocs no apareixien. I quan tot just pensàvem ja en canviar de zona per provar alguna altra cosa vam trobar un pioc alimentant-se en un guaret força alt a quasi un quilòmetre de distància de nosaltres. Després de fer una primera observació des d’aquesta distància ens vam apropar una mica amb els vehicles, fins a tenir una molt bona observació dels dos individus però sempre amb molt de compte de no destorbar-los. Un dels exemplars es va estirar a terra, relaxat, i el seu cap amb prou feines sí es veia per sobre el tall de gramínies. A la seva esquerra, l’altre exemplar continuava picotejant el terra, ja fora del guaret, permetent-nos gaudir d’una fantàstica observació de l’au sencera amb una bonica llum de tarda. Llàstima del vent!
Després d’una bona estona amb els piocs, vam decidir de fer via cap a l’allotjament. I quan sortíem de la zona vam tenir la sort de trobar-nos amb uns altres dos exemplars de pioc quasi a peu de pista! Tant a prop que de fer no vam poder evitar espantar-los… Tots dos van aixecar el vol i es van dirigir pista amunt, cap a la zona a on havíem esta gaudint dels altres dos mascles.
Pioc salvatge (Otis tarda) a les planes. Imatges de Joan Oliver Manen.
De camí a l’allotjament encara vam fer una última parada en un racó arrecerat del vent. Aquí el paisatge ja era totalment diferent. Havíem deixat enrere les eternes planes cobertes de cereal per a endinsar-nos en un paisatge de petits barrancs a on el terra argilós, ben compactat al llarg de mil·lennis, ha format petits tallats horitzontals. És el país del còlit negre, una espècie en regressió al Nord-est peninsular degut a la davallada del sobre-pastoratge en moltes zones i la conseqüent recuperació de la vegetació.
Aquí, a recer del vent, vam poder fer un petit passeig. Per sobre nostre va passar un bernat pescaire, amb evidents dificultats per mantenir el rumb… Aquí també vam veure tallarol capnegre amagant-se bé entre els matolls i un parell de milans negres tot just arribats de terres africanes. I llavors van aparèixer: Una parella de còlits negres que pel que sembla havien estat amagats força a prop nostre tota l’estona. Al llarg dels següents minuts es van anar movent pel vessant costerut, oferint molt bones observacions a tots els participants del tour. La parella anava aturant-se al llarg del tallat horitzontal però en un moment determinat un mascle de còlit ros va arribar a la zona, provocant un conflicte en el que els còlit negres no van parar fins a fer fora del seu territori l’intrús.
Molt contents amb aquestes observacions vam fer cap al nostre allotjament per poder tenir una mica de descans abans de sopar, tot pregant per una metereologia més benèvola al dia següent.
Perdiu roja (Alectoris rufa). Imatge de Gerard Sauret.Còlit negre (Oenanthe leucura). Imatge de Carles OliverUna part del grup gaudint dels còlits negres. Imatge de Susana Gutiérrez.
Dia 2. Després d’un bon esmorzar ens vam dirigir a una de les zones més famoses per a observar aus estepàries del continent europeu. Només arribar ja s’entreveia que podia ser un bon dia. El vent havia calmat i un estol de xoriguers petits acompanyats de gralles de bec vermell i dos fantàstics esparvers cendrosos, torlit i xoriguers petits ens van rebre a l’entrada de la reserva. Una mica més enllà unes xurres van aixecar el vol d’un camp de conreu.
El cel s’emplenava dels cants de terreroles comunes i calàndries a mesura que el matí avançava. Ni tant sols es va caldre baixar del vehicle per observar les sempre fantàstiques aloses becudes. Només arribar amb els vehicles a la zona seleccionada vam ser rebuts per un mascle cantant uns 100 metres de les furgonetes. Aguantant la respiració, una ràpida ullada amb els prismàtics ens va descobrir un mascle cantant força a prop. Nervis dins la furgoneta. L’ocell es movia ràpid entre la vegetació. Apareixia cantant aquí i allà, però sempre escàpol. Finalment va decidir estar-se quiet en un arbust menor i d’allà estant el seu peculiar cant ens arribà diàfan. Dos altres mascles responien tot deixant anar els seus curiosos refilets des de l’altre banda de la pista forestal.
Torlit (Burhinus oedicnemus). Imatge de Gerard Sauret.Un dels dos esparvers cendrosos (Circus pygargus) que vam enganxar a la carretera. Imatge de Carles Oliver.
A poc poc, tots els participants van anar connectant amb el mascle que, tot variant de postura, s’assegurava que el seu cant arribava a tots els racons de l’estepa. La lluita amb les finestretes de la furgoneta va ser mítica, però al final van cedir i tothom que va voler va capturar una imatge més o menys bona d’un dels ocells més difícils de veure a Europa.
Contents amb aquest espectacle, gaudit per tothom als dos vehicles, poc ens podíem esperar que la funció encara ens havia de donar el seu millor acte. A l’altre banda de la pista un segon mascle cada cop cantava més a prop fins que al final va emergir de l’estepa per cantar a peu de pista! Un altre cop, arraulits dins les furgonetes, vam gaudir d’aquesta observació. En un moment determinat algú va veure un tercer exemplar, aquest movent-se davant per davant del nou mascle. Anava amb una terrerola rogenca i al cap de pocs segons teníem als tres ocells alimentant-se a escassos centímetres els uns dels altres. L’observació es va perllongar en el temps i quasi tothom va poder gaudir de les evolucions d’aquestes dues aloses becudes entre el timó.
Alosa becuda (Chersophilus duponti) mostrant el seu característic perfil. Imatge de Joan Oliver Manen.Alosa becuda (Chersophilus duponti) a la carrera. Fantàstica imatge de Gerard Sauret.Calàndria (Melanocorypha calandra). Imatge de Carles Oliver.Entre alosa becuda i alosa becuda també hi va haver temps per les terreroles rogenques (Alaudala rufescens). Imatge de Carles Oliver.
En un moment determinat el vent tornà. No fort, però contundent. I el descens en l’activitat dels ocells va ser evident. Semblava un bon moment per marxar. A uns centenars de metres d’aquell raconet, ja fora de la zona sensible, vam fer una parada per estirar les cames i comentar les observacions. Eufòria!
Era encara força d’hora així que vam decidir d’explorar un petit racó de bosc de ribera no gaire lluny de la zona a on érem. De camí vam gaudir de bitxac comú, tallareta comuna, capsigranys i algun rapinyaire.
Però no podíem deixar de fer un últim intent per gaudir de gangues, així que ens vam desviar una mica… Malauradament no vam tenir sort amb les gangues, però sí que vam gaudir força de pardals roquers, trobats, terreroles comunes i d’una esmerla que va agafar una presa tot just davant nostre però que, malauradament, no es va deixar retratar.
Sortint ja dels secans, ens vam dirigir a l’Oest de Lécera a on uns quants reductes ben conservats de bosc de ribera que s’alternen amb parcel·les conreades articulen una excel·lent zona per observar ocells. Es tracta d’un dels molts petits nuclis del pardal de passa en aquesta zona de l’Aragó! Només arribar ens van rebre els cruixidells amb el seu cant i un petit passeig ens va permetre descobrir primer un colltort que cantava a tocar del camí i després una cotxa blava que es va esmunyir entre les pastures i la vegetació de ribera. Una àguila calçada va arribar al seu arbre de cria i ens va permetre bones observacions amb el telescopi. Aquí també vam detectar alguns ocells migradors com tallarol de casquet, bitxac rogenc i mosquiter de passa.
Al cel també havia activitat i vam poder veure una parella d’àguiles marcenques quasi a tocar d’una parella d’àguiles daurades!
Capsigrany (Lanius senator). Imatge de Joan Oliver Manen.Colltort (Jynx torquilla), un bimbo per alguns dels participants. Imatge de Carles OliverUna de les múltiples àguiles daurades (Aquila chrysaetos) al llarg del cap de setmana. Imatge de Carles Oliver.
Contents amb el resultat del matí, ens vam començar a dirigir a l’Est. A Bujaraloz una curta parada va servir per observar ànecs blancs, gamba roja comuna, corriols camanegres i algunes boniques cueretes grogues.
Més a l’Est, a Candasnos vam fer una parada per gaudir del nostre picnic mentre fèiem un cop d’ull a la llacuna. Hi dominaven els ànecs coll-verds però encara hi havien alguns morells de cap roig que empal·lidien al costat dels magnífics xibecs en plomatge estival. Aquí també vam sentir rascló, teixidor i balquer mentre que un falcó peregrí va aparèixer del no res per fer una passada només a l’abast d’aquests magnífics animals.
Acabat el picnic vam haver d’enfrontar-nos a l’ocell més difícil de tot el cap de setmana: la tallareta cuallarga! Sí, heu llegit bé!
Les tallaretes cuallargues poden ser una mica incòmodes de veure, però les que vam visitar comptaven amb un aliat d’allò més inesperat: Un pal metàl·lic!
I així és que mentre intentàvem que els participants es concentressin a trobar una de les 6 tallaretes cuallargues que rondaven pel bonic vessant cobert de brolla davant del qual ens havíem aturat, la majoria dels participants es deixaven emmirallar per les maniobres d’un modest pal metàl·lic de poc més de mig metre a la base del vessant. Pocs moments més frustrants deuen haver passat aquelles tallaretes que aquell dia, quan vint persones es van aturar a la carretera per mirar un modest pal metàl·lic.
Al poc temps tota la conversa girava al voltant del pal. Que si a l’esquerra, que si a la dreta, amunt, avall, a dins… Mentrestant, les tallaretes anaven fent, alienes a l’excitació que el pal semblava provocar. Però a poc a poc tothom va anar veient-les mentre s’alimentaven a les ginestes. I no patiu, perquè podem anunciar amb orgull que el pal que ens va destorbar tant ja no existeix, i ja no entorpirà mai més cap grup d’intrèpids ornitòlegs!
Val a dir que els vessants en qüestió també acollien abellerols, cogullades fosques i perdius roges.
Cuereta groga (Motacilla flava). Imatge de Joan Oliver Manen.En aquesta sortida vam gaudir dels primers abellerols (Merops apiaster) de la temporada. Imatge de Gerard Sauret.Abellerols al sol. Imatge de Joan Oliver Manen.Tallarol trencamates (Curruca conspicillata) mascle. Imatge de Carles Oliver.
Després d’aquesta èpica batalla vam decidir fer una segona visita a una zona per a tallarol trencamates, ja que el dia anterior no l’havien vist bé al segon vehicle. Sense masses problemes vam poder veure un bon grapat en un espai de terreny ben petit mentre les terreroles rogenques cantaven al nostre voltant.
D’aquí només teníem temps ja per a una última parada, que va ser per fer una visita a un duc al seu amagatall diürn i gaudir d’una bona observació amb els telescopis. Un cop acabats, vam encetar el trasllat final fins a Barcelona després d’acomiadar-nos dels participants que marxaven en direcció a Tarragona.
En definitiva, va ser un OrnitoRepte força reeixit malgrat el temps. I molt, molt divertit!
Llistat d’espècies observades
Ànec blanc (Tadorna tadorna)
Ànec coll-verd (Anas platythynchos)
Xarxet comú (Anas crecca)
Morell de cap roig (Aythya ferina)
Xibec (Netta rufina)
Cabussó emplomallat (Podiceps cristatus)
Cabusset (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
Bernat pescaire (Ardea cinerea)
Esplugabous (Bubulcus ibis)
Cigonya blanca (Ciconia ciconia)
Voltor comú (Gyps fulvus)
Aufrany (Neophron percnopterus)
Àguila marcenca (Circaerus gallicus)
Àguila calçada (Aquila pennata)
Àguila daurada (Aquila chrysaetos)
Milà negre (Milvus migrans)
Milà reial (Milvus milvus)
Esparver cendrós (Circus pygargus)
Arpella comuna (Circus aeruginosus)
Aligot comú (Buteo buteo)
Xoriguer comú (Falco tinnunculus)
Xoriguer petit (Falco naumanii)
Esmerla (Falco columbarius)
Falcó peregrí (Falco peregrinus)
Perdiu roja (Alectoris rufa)
Rascló eurasiàtic (Rallus aquaticus) — només sentit
Polla d’aigua (Gallinula chloropus)
Fotja eurasiàtica (Fulica atra)
Pioc salvatge (Otis tarda)
Cames llargues (Himantopus himantopus)
Torlit (Burhinus oedicnemus)
Corriol camanegre (Charadrius alexandrinus)
Gamba roja comuna (Tringa totanus)
Gavina riallera (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
Gavià argentat (Larus michahellis)
Colom roquer (Columba livia)
Tudó (Columba palumbus)
Tòrtora turca (Streptopelia decaocto)
Xurra (Pterocles orientalis)
Falciot negre (Apus apus)
Ballester (Apus melba)
Colltort eurasiàtic (Jynx torquilla)
Puput (Upupa epops)
Abellerol comú (Merops apiaster)
Terrerola comuna (Calandrella brachydactyla)
Terrerola fosca (Alaudala rufescens)
Cogullada comuna (Galerida cristata)
Cogullada fosca (Galerida theklae)
Calàndria (Melanocorypha calandra)
Alosa becuda (Chersophilus duponti)
Roquerol (Ptyonoprogne rupestris)
Oreneta comuna (Hirundo rustica)
Oreneta cuablanca (Delichon urbicum)
Oreneta de ribera (Riparia riparia)
Trobat (Anthus campestris)
Cuereta blanca (Motacilla alba)
Cuereta groga (Motacilla flava)
Rossinyol comú (Luscinia megarhynchos)
Cotxa blava (Luscinia svecica)
Bitxac rogenc (Saxicola rubetra)
Còlit gris (Oenanthe oenanthe)
Còlit ros (Oenanthe hispanica)
Còlit negre (Oenanthe leucura)
Griva (Turdus viscivorus)
Merla comuna (Turdus merula)
Tallarol de casquet (Sylvia atricapilla)
Tallarol capnegre (Curruca melanocephala)
Tallareta cuallarga (Curruca undata)
Tallarol trencamates (Curruca conspicillata)
Tallareta comuna (Curruca communis)
Balquer (Acrocephalus arundinaceus) — només sentit
All images by tour leader Carles Oliver. All rights reserved
Overview: Our 9th Pyrenees Winter Break tour started in the Pyrenees right after a strong snow fall. During the tour the weather was sunny and not especially cold in the mountains. In the plains, we had a morning with some fog, but it didn’t stop us to find all main specialties living there.
Day 1: Once all tour participants were collected from the their accommodations around the International Barcelona Airport, a short drive lead us to the Pyrenees. Only 90 minutes away from the city and we were already in a wonderful location, a mountain range hosting all high mountain birds specialties living in the Pyrenees.
It was sunny, but the day before it had been snowing so a pair of high mountain lanes were closed during the morning. Our fist stop was dedicated to explore the meadows around Bagà, where the very first birds of the day and the trip was a Lesser Spotted Woodpecker that was hunging around the parking place. Here we had some common birds in the area including Cirl Bunting, Black Redstart, Eurasian Blue Tit and Eurasian Nuthatch. Here, the terraced landscape is fulfilled with lines of Poplars and a fast scan produced the first Iberian Green Woodpecker of the tour while was moving high in the trees. Several Common Chaffinches were around, and they all moved down to the ground to feed, followed by the Iberian Green Woodpecker.
Other birds in this first stop included European Stonechat, Meadow Pipit, Common Magpie and Eurasian Greenfinch.
After this good start we drove some miles up in a lane. Our goal was to arrive to the limit of the forest (About 1800 metres above the sea level), but we were stopped by a small flock of birds. Here we had the first Mistle Thrushes of the trip along with several Common Crossbills, Coal Tits, and Goldcrests. Still, our guests especially enjoyed the views on both Rock Buntings and European Crested Tits.
Once above the tree limit, we did another non planned stop. A gorgeous Lammergeier (aka Bearded Vulture) was sitting in the top of a rocky outcrop just beside the road, providing the group with incredible views! Common Crossbills were also around, adding with their calls a plus on the mountainous ambients of the sight. After ten minutes of observation, the Lammergeier decided to fly away, passing over the group and providing us with unforgettable memories of that moment.
Wonderful Lammergier (Gypaetos barbatus) during our exploration of the Cadí-Moixeró Natural Park. Images by tour leader Carles Oliver
From here we drove higher. Beyond the tree limit there were mixed flocks of Fieldfares and Mistle Thrushes feeding on the snowed slopes. The weather was stable, with only a brise and some scenic clouds, and many birds were taking advantage of the good weather to feed around. Here we saw more Rock Buntings and a flock of 11 Bramblings flew off from one of the last trees up the lane.
When we arrived to the mountain pass, we found chunky three birds feeding by the tarmac. 3 wonderful Snowfinches were right beside us, but unfortunately decided to flew off and down the slope. From here we decided to go for a short walk. Common Ravens were seen around, and a Peregrine Falcon appeared in a fast, low flight going down the slope in a mission. Up to 10 Eurasian Griffons were also seen exploring the thermals before a large flock of 60+ Snowfinches suddenly appeared in a small hillside some 150 metres away from us, and started feeding on the ground. We all enjoyed very much the finch spectacle with several calls, short flights and even fights. We waited a bit, not moving, and we were rewarded with the birds coming down the hillside just beside the tarmac. After 10 minutes of observation, the birds simply decided to go up the slope again, and disappeared beyond some large boulders!
Alpine Accentor (Prunella collaris) showing nicely in our first day in the mountainsSnowFinches (Montifringilla nivalis) feeding on the slopes. Image by Carles OliverRock Bunting (Emberiza cia) is a common bird in the broken slopes around the Pyrenees.
Really happy after such a great sight, the group came back to the van, decided to explore that lane a bit more. Only a few miles away, a stop was made. Our short walk was again successful, as we found a lovely, obliging Alpine Accentor feeding really close to the road and, with some patience, we got some great shots on it. The views on the Accentor were perturbed by a large flock of 73 Alpine Choughs that suddenly appeared in the valley, offering good but rather distant views while a Lammergeier appeared again, crossing the valley in some seconds.
Really happy after this really successful start we went all the way down and did our way for the last stop of the day in a scrub hillside not far from our accommodation. It was already early afternoon, offering a calid light for the sightings to come. Our short walk up the hill produced some interesting sights including a large flock of Cirl Buntings feeding on the ground along with 2 Woodlarks, 4 Rock Buntings, 2 Redwings, 14 Rock Sparrows and the firsts Iberian Grey Shrike of the trip. In the skies, several Red Kites were moving around and we counted 3 Griffons Vultures and 1 adult Lammergeier. Here we also had the only Citril Finch of the trip, unfortunately a flying bird that provided poor views.
After this stop we just drove the short distance to our accommodation.
Day 2. After enjoying a lovely breakfast we left our accommodation. The first stop of the day was devoted to explore a lovely corner of the Segre River that crosses the beautiful Cerdanya valley. Here we enjoyed White-throated Dippers, Cirl Buntings, many Redwings and 2 Bramblings among several Chaffinches. Here we also had an Eurasian Woodcock that flew off from a nearby meadow, an uncommon bird to have here in day light!
From here we went up in the forested slopes, to spend some time in a boreal forest. As usual, the area was quite full of activity and it didn’t take us long to enjoy good views on Short-toed Treecreeper, Goldcrest, European Crested Tit, Firecrest and Coal Tit but also Common Crossbill, Goldfinch and Greenfinches. But the most celebrated sight here was a Black Woodpecker moving really low in a pine tree that offered us lovely scope views.
Happy after this lovely views we drove up to Andorra. During the hour long drive, a pair of stops were necessary to enjoy both Lammergeier and Golden Eagle. Once in Pas de la Casa we had a stop for a coffee while enjoying the urban Alpine Choughs that live around the sky resort. By the time of our arrival it was snowing a bit, providing the sight with a wonderful alpine setting!
Cirl Bunting (Emberiza cirlus) showed very well around the accommodationAlpine Chough (Pyrrhocorax graculus) under the snow fall in Andorra. Image by tour leader Carles Oliver
From here we drove back to Catalonia to have a final stop in the large fields that are the core of the Cerdanya Valley. There we enjoyed large flocks of Eurasian Skylarks, several flocks of Cirl & Rock Buntings, Meadow Pipits, Linnets and Corn Buntings but also the only 2 Hen Harriers of the tour, including a lovely male.
Day 3. Transfer to a different section of the Pyrenees. We drove West for about 90 minutes before to arrive into a small gorge in a secondary road. This was our first attempt to find a Wallcreeper, and we didn’t have to wait long! We waited for the bird in a small, old bridge, and only a few minutes after we got out of the vehicle, a wonderful Wallcreeper right in front us, providing excellent views for some minutes. The bird, always in search of insects that look for shelter in the rocky crevices, started to climb up the wall and we could follow its itinerary for several minutes. It kept doing short flights, and flickering its wings to show out its wonderful red panels (a way to keep other Wallcreepers away from that cliff).
Here we also had other interesting birds living in the cliffs including Blue Rock Thrush and Crag Martin. The Wallcreeper, after showing out for about 15 minutes, finally disappeared behind a rock, and this was the time for us to move to our next stop.
Wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria), without doubt the most sought-after bird in the mountains!
Leaving the hills behind, we drove to one of the few corners around Lleida where traditional wheat farming is still dominant. These areas host an abundant birdlife, and the number and variety of birds of prey is quite stunning. It didn’t take long before we had several views on Western Marsh Harriers, Red Kites and also Common Buzzards, some Griffons, Eurasian Sparrowhawk and even 2 Goshawks. All of this before the real goal of this stop appeared in one of its preferred trees: the long-staying Long-legged Buzzard! This bird of prey, nesting from Bulgaria to the East until the Arabian Peninsula, is a huge rarity in Catalonia and always worth a visit! This time we had excellent scope views, and also the chance to compare the size of this large Buzzard with a much smaller Western Marsh Harrier that was perched in a tree next to the Buteo hawk.
A small flock of Little Bustards had been some weeks feeding in a field nearby, and we covered the short distance to enjoy lovely scope views of 7 of this endangered bird, another victim of the farming intensification in Europe.
From this place we drove East to explore some of the dry canyons immediately South of Lleida. A pair of stops here allowed us to enjoy not only Stock Doves, Red-billed Choughs and Little Owl, but also on the scarce Black Wheatear. Here, between the abandoned terraces and the small cliffs of these canyons we were lucky enough to find a female Eurasian Eagle Owl hatching on its nest! A wonderful sight to end the third day of the tour!
Iberian Grey Shrike (Lanius meridionalis), a lovely Iberian endemic!Distant to don’t disturb the female Eurasian Eagle Owl (Bubo bubo) on its nest.
Day 4. Early start to explore the massive steppe lands South & West of Lleida. On the contrary of the previous day, the morning was foggy around the city so we decided to go up to the highlands West of Lleida to try to scape the fog. And we did it, partially.
As soon as arriving to the steppes we enjoyed large flocks of Corn Buntings but also Calandra & Mediterranean Short-toed Larks. They were feeding on the ground along with Common Linnets, Meadow Pipits and Goldfinches. It was sunny, but the fog was not far away and it was moving our way, so we didn’t have a lot of time!
We were lucky and 4 Black-bellied Sandgrouses flew off from a nearby field, allowing great flight views and nice photo opportunities. We scanned in different fields looking for Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, but we were unsuccessful. Finally, we decided to move to lower area to keep scanning. A pair of stops were necessary to enjoy Iberian Grey Shrikes and Thekla’s Larks and by we arrived to the new location the fog started catching us up. It was a pity because at soon as we arrived a flock of 14 Black-bellied Sandgrouse flew off from the field, but 8 more remained. A fast scan in the place allowed us to find 12 Pin-tailed Sandgrouses, some of them really close to us and the fog allowed great scope views despite it ruined the photo chances of the moment.
Dartford Warbler (Curruca undata) can be especially common in the steppes during winterCalandra Lark (Melanocorypha calandra) favours both extensive crops and steppe lands.Suddenly the fog appeared in our views on Pin-tailed Sandgrouses, even if close, were not shining.
Decided to escape the fog, we drove East to check another place in Los Monegros. There, around Bujaraloz, we went in the search of the small population of Great Bustards that subsists in the area. Here it was sunny and it only took us 5 minutes to find a lovely flock of 17 males walking around in a wonderful field full of flowers. After enjoying this great birds we took our time to check a pair of corners around, where we found more Pin-tailed Sandgrouses but also Merlin and 1 Golden Eagle.
It was already lunch time so we covered the short distance to a small lagoon. From its view point we had a good selection of waterfowl that included Little & Great Crested Grebes, Gadwall, Eurasian Teals, Common Pochards, Shovelers, 5 Red-crested Pochards and 1 male Pintails. The reedbeds around were having some Great White Egrets and Grey Herons and a short walk by reed produced Penduline Tits, ruff views on an elusive Cetti’s Warblers, several Reed Buntings and a shy Bluethroat that not allowed any photo. The fields around were having large flocks of Chaffinches and we were happy to pick up a Brambling from there as well!
From here we had a final stop in a different wetland very close to Lleida, where the fog was still persistent. Here we had short walk along the reeds. It was little movement, but finally our perseverance was rewarded with good views on 2 Bearded Tits that appeared really close in the reeds. They were really celebrated by the tour participants, and the afternoon ended with 2 Common Kingfishers chasing each other in the fog!
Great Bustards (Otis tarda) has only two small populations left in Aragon, and they can be harder than expected to find!
Day 5. Last morning of the trip before heading back to Barcelona Airport. This morning was devoted to explore the wonderful habitat of low, sparse scrubland where the poor understood Dupont’s Lark lives. This species is to be found in poor soils with a rich gradient of salt on it, resulting a landscape of low, scattered scrubs. The songs of both Calandra & Mediterranean Short-toed Larks were constant in the air. The morning was sunny, and the temperature was higher than the day before. We spend some time exploring the area by combining short walks and slow drives, and after less than hour we were enjoying a Dupont’s Lark while feeding on the ground. It was interesting to see the bird excavating the soil with powerful movements of its whole body, pushing its long bill into the soft soil to get a small prey before starting its short, fast runs between the tussocks of grass.
Dupont’s Larks (Chersophilus duponti) favour the poor soils around the Ebro basin. Many White Storks (Ciconia ciconia) don’t nest any more so to see them in the nest in February is not rare!
This was quite a phenomenal way of ending our tour. After this we just drove back to Barcelona, where we had a final stop around the airport to enjoy Iberian Green Woodpeckers, Eurasian Hoopoes, Zitting Cisticola and a rather unexpected light form Booted Eagle!
All images in this trip report by tour leader Carles Oliver except by the especifically signed under a different name. All rights reserved.
Overview: 7th tour exploring Oman, a country that seems to hold countless surprises for any birdwatcher. In the crossroad between the Horn of Africa, the Western Palearctic and the Indian subcontinent, Oman shows a wonderful variety of winter and passage birds.
Some birds living in the coastal Dhofar hills, isolated by the sea but also by the massive sand desert that goes on for over 1000 miles well inside Saudi Arabia, have walked down an interesting speciation process, producing a number of endemics. At the same time, this area keeps being colonised by a number of African species, arriving from Yemen via the Aden Strait.
The weather during the tour was sunny and pleasant, always between 20ºC to 25ºC, out of a pair of days of stronger heat in the North of the country. In the South, we had a pair of windy days, but the wind didn’t destroy any of our birding options, and we kept enjoying an excellent birding in the Dhofar. On birds, it is interesting to note that this winter was poor in Harriers. Normally, one can expect double figures of Montagu’s or even Pallids during the tour, but this time we only got one of each! Numbers of Steppe Eagles were also low, and looks like the main overwintering spot for the bird has been definately re-establised inside Saudi Arabia.
In the same way, both numbers of Ducks and Shrikes were low, especially in the wetlands in the Dhofar, where Ducks can be very common depending on the year. Still, it was a good variety of ducks, and we got good views on both Turkestan & Isabelline Shrikes.
It is also worrying how rare the Arabian Grosbeak is getting during the last years. By the other hand, happy to see more Sandgrouses than ever before in the trip, with hundreds & hundreds of Chestnut-bellieds’s, and really good numbers of both Spotted & Crowned.
Day 1. After an afternoon flight we landed in Muscat International Airport. Once the whole group was assembled there, we moved to our accommodation placed only a few miles away from the airport.
The next morning we had a lovely breakfast and the group enjoyed the very first Common Mynas, Pale Crag Martins and House Crows of the trip. It was a sunny and rather warm morning in Muscat. Our first stop was devoted to explore Al Ansab lagoons. This small wetland has been closed due to maintenance works. Unfortunately one of the works have consisted in a new pavilion next to the main view point over the best lagoon for waders and ducks. Hopefully this will not affect the variety of birds that the area is normally holding.
In Al Ansab we got the very first views on some common birds in the north of the country including Grey Francolin, Indian Silverbill, Red-wattled Lapwing, Delicate Prinia, White-cheeked Bulbul and Purple Sunbird. Beside this, the lagoon offered a good array of waterfowl and waders including Black-winged Stilts, Greater Flamingo, Eurasian Teal, Common Snipe, Kentish Plover, Pintail, Whiskered Tern, Eurasian Moorhen, Crested Lark, Common Ringed Plover and the first of some Marsh Sandpipers. The grass around had 3 Citrine Wagtails, 1 White Wagtail, Desert Wheatear and 1 Western Yellow Wagtail.
Grey Francolin (Ortygornis pondicerianus) around our accommodation. Image by tour leader Carles Oliver
From Al Ansab we went to Muscat River, where we were delighted by hundreds of waders. Dunlin, Little Stint and Greenshank were propably the commonest species but we also got good views on several Lesser Sand Plovers, Temminck’s Stints, Western Reef Egrets, 4 Black-tailed Godwits and 2 Marsh Sandpipers. The area was also nice for terns and in two different mixed flocks we counted 4 Common Terns + 2 Whiskered & 1 White-winged Black Tern. In the way to the beach we were surprised by tens of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouses in the way to their drinking ponds.
Once in the beach, we noted 2 Greater Crested Terns along with several Slender-billed Gulls, Sandwich Terns and the beautiful Lesser Crested Terns. Here we also had the chance to see together Greater Sand & Lesser Sand Plovers, and it was useful to see how different the birds are in attitude, size and coloration. The small sand bar at the end of the river was also having several Heuglin’s & Steppe Gulls (both now considered Lesser Black-back Gull races) and the always gorgeous Sooty Gull.
One of the many flocks of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouses (Pterocles exustus) flying around the water ponds. Image by Carles Oliver
From here we drove some miles away to look for the tiny population of Black-winged Kites living in Oman. It didn’t take long before we found two adults, probably the same birds that we found nesting in the area back in November 2022. We really enjoyed this wonderful bird, and the stop was also granted with the firsts Arabian Bee-eaters of the trip, and the first Indian Roller! Back to the coast, we scanned some flocks of gulls in search of Palla’s Gull, and again didn’t take long before we found 7 of them, with some individuals showing a wonderful black head. What a beast! A further scanning of the flock revealed not only some Black-headed Gulls but also 2 Caspian Gulls. Beyond, the beach was also having Eurasian Whimbrel and Oystercatcher.
After a nice lunch we explored some parks around Muscat. Unfortunately Al Qurm was closed, and the only accessible point was the coastal promenade so we turned around and went to Al Wustah, where we got good views on 2 Alexandrine Parakeets, Red-vented Bulbuls, White-spectacled Bulbuls and a flyover Bonelli’s Eagle. Late in the afternoon we went back to the Al Qurm promenade, where we enjoyed with the many Pallid Swifts passing by, and good (but distant) views on Pacific Golden Plover, Eurasian Curlew and Bar-tailed Godwit to end the day.
Black-winged Kite (Elanus caeruleus), still a big rarity in Northern Oman.The impressive Palla’s Gull (Ichthyaetus ichthyaetus) along with Steppe Gulls (Larus fuscus barabensis)Red-wattled Lapwing (Vanellus indicus), a really common bird in Northern Oman.Indian Roller (Coracias benghalensis), another common view in Northern Oman.The impressive Alexandrine Parakeet (Psittacula eupatria) around Al Wustah
Day 2. Driving South from Muscat, we went to explore the very impressive mountain landscape of the Al Harar Mounts. These peaks, reaching 3000+ meters above the sea level, extend for over 700 kilometres in Northern Oman and neighbouring Emirates. We spent the morning in a small valley immediately below the mountains.
Here we chose to explore a small plain that leads into a gorge. We did a number of stops along the tracks of the plain. Persian Wheatear was the very first specialty to be noted. Up in a wire, we had good views on the first of many Levant Grey Shrike, now considered to be inside the Great Grey Shrike complex. A bit beyond, 2 Desert Larks were seen so we decided to go for a small walk, and we were glad to see that the Desert Larks were actually moving along with 2 Striolated Buntings. Suprisingly, these were the only Striolateds of the tour!
Further inside the plain, we had a stop in the dry river bed (called wadi in Arabic). Here we saw some Lesser Whitethroats, Black Redstart and several White-cheeked Bulbuls. An Eastern Orphean Warbler showed briefly while a pair of Indian Rollers were moving in the rocks nearby. When coming back to the vehicle we got the first Plain Leaf Warbler of the tour, and a wonderful Hume’s Wheatear was perched nearby, providing good photo opportunities.
There were certainly some good birds in the area so we decided to go further on in the valley, but the upper walk didn’t produce anything beyong Purple Sunbirds, Plain Leaf Warblers and Lesser Whitethroats. Back the vehicle, we were granted with a Lappet-faced Vulture appearing up in the sky! Always a wonderful bird to have!!
The acacia thornbush in Al Harar MountainsThe recently split Arabian Bee-eater (Merops cyanophrys) The very smart Hume’s Wheatear (Oenanthe albonigra), a specialty from Northern Oman living in gorges, gallies and broken terrain.Persian Wheatear (Oenanthe chrysopygia) in the plains. Plain Leaf Warbler (Phylloscopus neglectus) prefers large, dense evergreen canopies along wadis
After lunch we drove into a massive gorge. This breathtaking corner of the world is one of the very few sites where Omani Owl is known to exist! It was early in the afternoon, and in our way in we had more Hume’s Wheatears and Indian Rollers. We also explored a small corner with oasis-like vegetation, and we got some Siberian Chiffchaffs calling and performing well and the first Grey Wagtail of the trip. In the distance, two Egyptian Vultures were noted in the top of the cliffs. We did wait until dusk, expecting to get something from one of the most unknown Owls in the planet, and our efforts were well granted. First with really distant houls, but even before dusk we got 1 Omani Owl calling up in the cliffs while flying and, later in the evening, a male was heard singing at least twice not really far away.
Of course, we did look for this closer bird for some time, but we absolutely failed to get anything else from such an enygmatic bird. After this we drove down the gorge and covered the short distance to our accommodation, where we had the chance to taste the local cuisine.
Delicate Prinia (Prinia lepida), a common bird in Northern Oman.
Day 3. Early morning start to transfer South to Salalah. Despite the big distance, we did once again very well. After breakfast, we drove South some miles and, taking advantage of the wonderful morning light, we had some birding. We didn’t have to walk far from our vehicle to get a Ménétrie’s Warbler feeding on the lush vegetation. We followed the bird tree to tree and got good views, but we were distracted by an Asian Desert Warbler that popped up from a bush only a pair of metres away from us. Indian Rollers were flying around, as there were the first Brown-necked Ravens of the trip. We kept walking the area and only 5 minutes later we found some Arabian Babblers calling in the distance. We had to move fast to catch them up but finally got good views on this specialist of desert scrublands and oasis-like places. When following the Babblers a wonderful party of Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouses flew off from the bare soil, leaving the group wanting more from them! When scouting the area in search of the Babblers we got 2 juvenile Tawny Pipits.
Arabian Babblers (Turdoides squamiceps) were a bit elusive this time. Image by tour participant Moisés Zozaya.Ménétriés’s Warbler (Curruca mystacea) showed really well while looking for food in the wady srcubalnd. Image by tour participant Moisés Zozaya.
After such a great stop we had some driving, and our next real birding stop didn’t come until the afternoon. Our typical picnic place was this time empty of birds, and only 1 Isabelline Shrike & 1 Western Marsh Harrier were noted. But in the afternoon we had plenty of time to explore the famous desert farms in the way to Salalah. Here we had soon several Isabelline & Desert Wheatears along with a Northern Wheatear. We drove around looking for anything moving, and we were granted with a lovely male Pallid Harrier that the tour participant Otger was fast to catch up when flying low. We enjoyed this beuatiful bird of prey when he was really busy, flying into the green fields, where it was hunting boles, and moving later to the bare ground around to feed on them. The Pallid Harrier repeated the operation three times, and our group was delighted to see this uncommon behaviour once and over.
A further drive in the area brought us to an open fleld beyond the farms. This is a place that normally concentrates a large number of Sandgrouses, and this time was not different. Soon, we had tens of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouses moving around, and we got good scope views on them and also in Spotted Sandgrouses, far more scarce here. A Marsh Harrier was patrolling the area, moving flocks of tens of Sandgrouses once and over as he was patrolling the area. Back to the farm, a large flock of Namaqua Doves provided good looks, with some obliging individuals. In the distance, a large flock of 80+ White Storks were circling up in the sky. We decided a do some walk in the area, and we were lucky to find 2 Pied Wheatears (one adult male, and one putative 1st winter female) feeding around along with a male Siberian Stonechat and the only one Greater Short-toed Lark of the trip!
From here we drove to our accommodation in Salalah, even if we had to go into a lay-by due to a Short-toed Snake Eagle that was standing by the road.
Pied Wheatear (Oenanthe pleschanka) moulting to adult male.Isabelline Wheatear (Onenathe isabellinus) , the commonest Wheatear in Southern Oman.Namaqua Doves (Oena capensis) were fairly common this year in the desert.Pallid Harrier (Circus macrourus) male
Day 4. Early morning start to explore the gorgeous South of Oman. Our first morning stop was devoted to go to Ayn Hamran, a plentiful birding location and one of the corner of wonders in the country. Here went fast through a number of common species in the South. African Silverbills, Rüppell’s Weavers, Cinnamon-breasted Buntings, Abyssinian White-eyes, Arabian Sunbirds, African Paradise Flycatchers and Tristam’s Starlings were fastly seen. A female Eurasian Sparrowhawk was quite a surprise, considering that they are really scarce so far South. A 1st year Imperial Eagle just passed over us but it did it in a wrong moment since we were tracking a secretive Arabian Warbler moving inside the canopy. We had excellent views on it, and while searching for this bird we just found the first Eastern Olivaceous Warbler of the morning. We then moved around the stream, and we were lucky to be fast in finding a gorgeous & obliging Arabian Grosbeak! This is one of the most scarce and difficult to find specialties in the area. The bird showed up for at least 15 minutes and we could register its song, take videos and really enjoy this wonderful bird. A second bird was noted to be calling around, but we never found it.
Close by, a Black-crowned Tchagra was feeding on the ground, and the group again had excellent views in the rather small and delicate Arabian race of this common species in Africa.
The morning was already wonderful, and it was only 9:00! We kept walking around. Delicate Prinias were also showy, but they could not compete with the Grosbeak! A Turkestan Shrike was seen at close range but in a difficult angle, and Clamorous Reed Warblers were heart, but never seen. A Red-breasted Flycatcher were heard around, and after some scanning we found the bird catching flies low in the fig trees. For our surprise, a second individual was also calling in the area.
This year we got really wonderful views on the always challenging Arabian Warbler (Curruca leucomelaena)This was the first of out of four Red-breasted Flycatchers (Ficedula parva) seen during the tour! Eastern Olivaceous Warbler (Iduna pallida)The very scarce Arabian Grosbeak (Rhynchostruthus percivali) keeps being one of the most sought-after birds in Oman!Black-crowned Tchagra (Tchagra senegallus percivali), often a difficult species.Bruce’s Green Pigeons (Treron waalia) trust on their plomage to avoid being located.
From here we walked to the large fig trees. This is a place attacting several birds. There were plenty of Bulbuls, White-eyes, a 2nd Eastern Olivaceous Warbler and, after several scanning and some walk, we got to have close views on a beautiful male Bruce’s Green Pigeon. The blue of its eyes is something that many birdwatchers dream to see once in their lives! 3 more Bruce’s flew out the same tree while several African Paradise Flycatchers were hunting around.
After such a great start we came back to the coast, not without a stop in the desert-like plain to see the firsts Black-crowned Sparrow-Lark of the trip, and a lovely flock of 6 Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouses that the tour participant Magda saw when we were only a few feet away! In the coast was windy, but not that much. While enjoying our picnic in East Khawar, we had a view on the wildfowl around. Here we had the firsts Squacco & Indian Pond Herons of the trip, and some Citrine Wagtails were walking in the patches of tall grass around. 3 Eurasian Spoonbills were roosting in an island. Waders in the area included Black-tailed Godwit, Little Stint & Wood Sandpiper but also Marsh Sandpiper, Ruff and Temminck’s Stint. 1 Greater Spotted Eagle came to provide close views while taking an eye on the several Gulls and Terns roosting around. Here we had 4 Gull-billed Terns, Caspian Tern, Common Tern and 1 White-winged Black Tern. The gulls were all Steppe, Sooty, Heuglin’s and Slender-billeds, with only 4 Black-headed Gulls in the large flocks. In the water there were small parties of Garganeys and a single 1st winter Purple Heron was also seen moving in a close patch of vegetation.
The afternoon was still young so we drove South of Salalah to check a major wetland. In the way, Booted & Greater Spotted Eagles were noted. Once South of the city, it didn’t take long before we got the first Terek’s Sandpipers feeding in the mudflats along with Lesser Sand Plovers, Dunlins, Common Redshanks, Ruddy Turnstones and a couple of Bar-tailed Godwits. Out in the sea, Moises located the first Brown Bobby fishing close to the coast, followed by 3 more and 1 Masked Boobby. Socotra Cormorants were also present, fishing in small parties or alone, and allowed lovely scope views. Back in the shoreline, we found the African Openbill that has been in the area since the last fall. It spent a lot of time feeding in shallow water, surrounded by several Western Reef Egrets and Grey Herons. On the beach, 13 Ospreys and 2 Greater Spotted Eagles were counted sitting on rocks or directly on the bare sand. There were also some terns, including some Lesser & Greater Crested Terns.
Far South, we still had another stop in a wetland, this time a bit twitch the Lesser White-fronted Goose that had been there during the last weeks. Twitch is not something you can do really often in Oman, and it is always welcome! It didn’t take long to locate it feeding in the grassy patches at the river mouth along with some Pintails and Grey Plovers. Here we also got 8 Red-knobbed Coots, several Garganeys, a distant Indian Pond Heron, and close views on Pacific Golden Plover. A further exploration of the place produced 2 lovely Pheasant-tailed Jacanas, one of them showing a little bit of its majestic nesting plomage. A bit of sea watching nearby produced little of interest out of 10+ Brown Boobies and a small party of Socotra Cormorants feeding around.
While vesperting we drove some kilometers in a nearby wady. Even if the access was difficult, it was worth it when a Desert Owl started calling in the area despite the wind! It took us some time and some walk around, but we finally got breathtaking views on this amazing and poorly known owl!
Lesser White-fronted Geese (Anser erythropus), only the 5th record for Oman!One of the two Pheasant-tailed Jacanas (Hydrophaisanus chirurgus) seen during the tour.Brown Booby (Sula leucogaster)The Desert Owl (Strix hadorami) was discovered in Oman only 10 years ago!
Day 5. After the amazing day before, we could not expect much more, but the day proved us wrong! An early morning stop in a reedbed produced little out of a Crested Honey Buzzard that Moises saw in our way back to the vehicles and that turned out to be the only one of the trip!
From the coast we decided to climb up to the Dhofar highlands, probably the most remarkable place for birds of prey in Oman. The area was filled up with Imperial Eagles, and we counted at least 12 of them! 1 Short-toed Snake Eagle was also seen before stopping forced by a running flock of the endemic Arabian Partridges in one side of the van. Arrived to the top of the mountain, we could enjoy the gorgeous cliffs that are facing the Arabian Sea. Here we enjoyed several Fan-tailed Ravens but also Pale Crag Martins, Common Kestrels, and a lovely pair of Arabian Wheatears. Verreaux’s Eagles proved harder, as it could not be in another way, and required some scanning from different places but finally we got a nice adult soaring around that, even if distant, were one of the highlights of the day!
Imperial Eagle (Aquila helicaca) during our day in the Dhofar highlands.Arabian Wheatear (Oenanthe lugentoides), another Arabian endemic, formerly considered to be conspecific with Mourning Wheatear.Verreaux’s Eagle (Aquila verreauxii) showed well but briefly.Tristam’s Starling (Onychognathus tristamii) Fan-tailed Raven (Corvus rhidipurus) riding Bactrians in the highlands.Eurasian Griffon (Gyps fulvus). The origin of these Griffons is unknown.
Some Rock Hyrax were feeding around, or hiding in the shades from the very powerful eagle that is always looking for them! The Hyraxes led us to two lovely Red-legged Buzzards that were patrolling the area. When leaving, a Long-billed Pipit was also seen moving in the rocky slopes. When moving in the Dhofar one should always have an eye in the sky, and once again proved correct, since we got both Lappet-faced Vulture & Eurasian Griffon moving around, both being scarce species in Southern Oman.
From here we drove to a proper place for picnic, and after enjoying our packed lunches we moved in search of some specialties. Both Palestine & Arabian Sunbirds were seen, although not at close range. Cinnamon-breasted Buntings were virtually everywhere along with African Silverbills, and we were lucky to picked up some Yemen Serins feeding on the ground along with them! At the beggining we saw only 3 but a further scanning produced at least 10, some of them providing really close looks. Here we also got 4 Tree Pipits. But the most surprinsing was to see a large flock of nearly 50 Bruce’s Green Pigeon leaving a tiny tree next to our group. We had been in this area, enjoying the Yemen Serins, for almost 15 minutes and nobody notice any single of the 50 Bruce’s…
Back to the vehicles we drove down to the coast, with a nice stop to enjoy the small population of Baobabs that subsists in the Dhofar. Here we got Arabian Warbler, Common Chiffchaff and a lovely African Paradise Flycatcher in shining nesting plumage and showing out its 2 long tail feathers. What a cracker!
Baobabs up in the Dhofar hillsides.African Paradise Flycatcher (Tersiphone viridis) in full nesting plomage. A cracker! Yemen Serin (Cithragra menachensis), a scarce and elusive species.Juvenie Bonelli’s Eagle (Aquila fasciata) vs Osprey (Pandion haliaetos). Not a great shot but something not to be seen every day.“fulvescens” Greater Spotted Eagle (Clanga clanga)
Once in the coast, we take a look into a pair of small corners but we got little, and probably the most interesting sights in both places was a “fulvescens” form of Greater Spotted Eagle, and a juvenile Bonelli’s being moved by an Osprey; definately not a common combination to see in the sky!
After a coffee stop, we did drove back to the hills to explore a wonderful corner: A stream that runs down the mountains and that is covered with lotus and floating vegetation, small reedbeds and mangrove-like bushes. What a great place! Here we did a walk along the stream, and soon we got the first Bluethroat of the trip; a female. Grey Herons, Wood Sandpipers and Little Egrets were around in good numbers, and a low scanning produced great views into 2 White-breasted Waterhens. This bird, often really elusive, was another of the highlights that day. Two Snipes flew off, and one of them really sounded like a Pin-tailed Snipe but unfortunately we could not relocate the bird, neither hear it again… Here we also got 4 Black-crowned Night Herons, Indian Pond & Squacco Herons, 3 Citrine Wagtails at close range in lovely afternoon light, a showy male Bluethroat and a calling Diederick Cuckoo that called 3 times from a large tree but never showed out.
Female type Bluethroat (Luscinia svecica)We were lucky to catch up good views on the elusive White-breasted Waterhen (Amaurornis phoenicurus)Indian Pond Heron (Ardeola grayii)Yet another Citrine Wagtail (Motacilla citreola)
Day 6. Early morning start. This was the morning of our offshore. But before arriving to the harbour we had a stop in a small river mouth. Here, in previous tours we have counted tens of Rose-coloured Starlings living the reedbeds where do they roost, but this time we only got one along with several Common Mynas, some Western Marsh Harriers, Rüppell’s Weavers, 2 Yellow Wagtails and 1 adult Purple Heron. Once in the boat, we sailed out and fastly discovered that it was a quiet day, with very little movement in the sea. Despite this, we got excellent views on a number of Persian Shearwaters passing by the boat, some at close range. Small flocks of Red-necked Phalaropes were flying around, as there were some Masked Bookies, including some great views inmediatly above the boat and on the sea. Both Green & Loggerhead Turtles were seen a number of times, again quite close. But the clymax came when a Jouanin’s Petrel showed up in front of the boat! It was quite distant but still possible to see its typical shape and jizz and the long body. Unfortunately, not eveyone in the group catched up with the bird…
Back on the harbour, we got some close views on Striated Herons before living for our next stop. In the way back to Salalah, we scouted a large plain and our efforts were rewarded with a flock of 10 Cream-coloured Coursers that showed really well along with Isabelline Wheatears. After lunch, we revisited a pair of river mouths but we didn’t get that much different from our previous visits so we moved to check one of the typical places for Spotted Thick-knees to be roosting. They were there, and we enjoyed lovely views on 12 of them before moving for our last stop.
Persian Shearwater (Puffinus persicus)Masked Booby (Sula dactylatra)Striated Heron (Butorides striata)Cream-coloured Courser (Cursorior cursor) is quite uncommon in Southern Oman.Juvenile Imperial Eagle (Aquila heliaca)Greater Spotted Eagle (Clanga clanga)Spotted Thick-knee (Burhinus capensis)
Back to the forested valleys, we explored a small stream, where we were surprised to find another Red-breasted Flycatcher having a bath along with Citrine & Grey Wagtails and 2 African Paradise Flycatchers. We enjoyed long views on the Flycatcher while searching for other goodies to appear, but everything we could find was a Hottetotta genus Scorpion. Here we waited until sunset, and with the very last lights of the day we were surprised to hear a Rufous-scrub Robin calling from the bush land. We scanned a bit but the last light of the day didn’t help and we never got a visual on this always wonderful ground flycatcher. Only a few minutes after the Robin was calling, we got the first call of an Arabian Eagle Owl coming from the opposite slope. During the next half an hour we struggled to find and approach the bird but every second of it was worth it when we finally got this endemic owl only a few meters away in a really unforgettable experience for all of us!
Not a day whithout a portrait on a Citrine Wagtail!Blackstart (Oenanthe melanura), currently considered to be a Wheatear.This time we enjoyed really intimate views on an Arabian Eagle Owl (Bubo milesi) while moving in the woodlands. Image by tour leader Carles Oliver
Day 7. The morning of this day was devoted to explore the oases at Mudday. This is the only reliable place for Grey Hypocolius in Oman, and there were only 2 birds reported at the end of December (in our trip on early December 2022 we were lucky to see 4 of them!). The Hypocolius proved to be as hard as ever, and it really took us an extra effort and patiente to finally connect with one of them, even if shortly! In the meanwhile we had time to enjoy at least 4 Nile Valley Sunbirds, 3 Blackstarts (they were suprisingly scarce this time in all the places we went!), several Sand Partridges including some birds drinking from a water hole, my first African Collared Dove in the place for some years, an Imperial Eagle, a lovely male Caucasian Bluethroat, the only Montagu’s Harrier of the trip, 1 Arabian Bee-eater and a lovely Hooded Wheatear!
A part from all of this was the experience to see 60+ Crowned Sandgrouses coming down to drink water in different flocks. Their calls, the very shy movements and behaviour and the very special beauty of the Sandgrouses on the ground at close range keep being for me one of the most wonderful birding experiences on Earth!
The very first glympse of the male Hypocolius was when it was feeding in a bush, only a few meters from us. The bird flew off before everyone in the group could have something of it, but it looked like not being far. We accurately scanned all the bushes and palm trees around, but we didn’t have a clue. From there we moved to check other corners around, getting our range of search bigger and bigger. Finally we dediced to come back to the exact place where we first saw the bird and scanned around for several minutes. Finally, right was I was about to give up, the bird appeared right in the same bush as it was the first time! Didn’t stay long there, though, and we still had to follow the bird up in the palm trees where it was hidden and, after a slowy scan, finally got excellent views on this amazing species, and eveyone had really good looks on it.
Sand Partridge (Ammoperdix heyi) in lovely morning lightHooded Wheatear (Oenanthe monacha) overseeing the wadi.Nile Valley Sunbird (Hedidypna metalltica) showing its amazing array of colours!African Collared Dove (Streptopelia roseogrisea)Hundreds of Crowned Sandgrouses (Pterocles coronata) were attending the water holes.Grey Hypocolius (Hypocolius ampelinus) male hiding in the palm trees.
Really glad for this amazing view we went back to Salalah to have some lunch and rest. In the afternoon, we went to check the well known Raysut ponds. It was cloudy when we arrived, even about to rain! But of course, it didn’t rain at all. Here we counted 120 Abdim’s Storks, double figures of Whites‘, and 9 Red-wattled Lapwings (including one of the spur-winged x Red-wattled hybrids that live in the area). Other interesting species here included several Little Grebes, 1 Marsh Sandpiper, 1 Common Snipe (little numbers of Snipes this year) and Temminck’s Stints.
Abdim’s Stork (Ciconia abdimii) in the Raysut ponds. Image by tour leader Carles OliverRed-wattled x Spur-winged Lapwing hybrid (Vanellus indicus x spinosus). Image by tour participant Moises Zozaya.
Back to the coast, we headed to West Kawhar, a place that very few people check (because normally is very little there). But we were lucky, not only because of the flocks of Pacific Golden Plovers at close range that provided great views but especially because we were lucky to find a Long-tailed Cormorant! Checking the dead trees around I was surprised to find this juvenile, small Cormorant with a long tail and a vivid red eye. The bird was extremely small (for a Cormorant) with a humbed head and whitish underparts. It may not be very exciting for those that have visited tropical Africa, but it happens to be a first for Oman! Very happy for our luck, we did some photos of the bird and pair attention to all main details with the scopes before leaving to our last wetland stop in a in the Dhofar.
Our last river mouth produced little out of a lovely flock of 5 Cotton Pygmy Goose. This is actually one of the best corners for ducks but it was almost empty…
Another point that is well worth checking in Salalah are the several farms around. You can choose any of them, for sure you will get excellent birds. Our farm was close to the beach, and just arriving to the place we found a tiny pond with some reeds. Here, a Clamorous Reed Warbler eluded us again, but we were happy to enjoy some Citrine Wagtails, Bluethroat and Green Sandpiper. Once in the fields, we soon had a large flock of Rosy Starlings flying around, that eventually stopped in the top of a thicket allowing really good scope views. Here we got another large flock (200+) of Pacific Golden Plovers, one of them showing what it look to be a complete summer plomage. Another surprise was to find 2 Common Cranes here, and we enjoyed them while some Red-throated Pipits and Yellow Wagtails were flying above us. The visit ended with brief views on a Siberian Stonechat.
To end the day, we chose another visit to wooded valley, and here we got really nice views on 1 Arabian Scops Owl. At least 3 more were heard singing around before going back to our accommodation for a very deserved rest.
Long-tailed Cormorant (Microcarbo africanus), a putative 1st for Oman was a big surprise for all of us! Images by tour leader Carles OliverPacific Golden Plover (Pluvialis fulva), a common overwintering bird in OmanCotton Pygmy Goose (Nettapus coromandelianus), a very scarce winter visitor to Oman.West Khawar in Salalah, a wonderful birding location.Arabian Scops Owl (Otus pamelae), another Arabian endemic
Day 8. After breakfast we went back to explore farms. This time we had a first stop in a different one. Surprisingly we didn’t have any Harrier at all, but the place was literally fullfilled with Yellow Wagtails. Hundreds, thousands of them were moving around, following the tractors but, in fact, everywhere. Both feldegg & beema races were noted, with some thunbergi probably also there. Large flocks of Ruffs were in the move along with Glossy Ibises. On the ground, we got some lovely views on Red-throated Pipits including some salmon-breasted ones. But the most celebrated bird here was an Oriental Skylark that landed only a few meters away from us, and after some accurate scanning of the soil, showed well for some seconds before leaving.
The visit had been so great so we decided to do a fast stop to the farm where we had been birdwatcher the previous afternoon. There, we got lucky to find the Rose-coloured Starlings bathing in a small pond only a few meters away from us. Besides, 4 Little Ringed Plovers were also seen at close range. Back to the proper farms, we listened some Red-throated Pipits before a wonderful Richard’s Pipit appeared and stop only some 20 meters away from us. All the group enjoyed wonderful views on the bird both with the scope and with the bins before the bird moved to a taller grass corner.
Red-throated Pipit (Anthus cervinus)Rose-coloured Starling (Pastor roseus)Richard’s Pipit (Anthus richardi), another uncommon winter visitor in Oman.
From here we drove back to the desert. In this day we faced a transfer North for an overnight in Duqm, but we still didn’t give up of birding! After a pair of hours of car we stopped in a new farm. Just driving the road we got some flocks of Sandgrouses flying in the distance so we decided to explore the fields around. Here we were granted with 12 Cream-coloured Coursers, Isabelline Shrike, tens of Chesnut-bellied Sandgrouses, Black-crowned Sparrow-Larks and some Levant Grey Shrikes.
Back to desert, we kept driving North. To cross the desert is always wonderful and not absent of birding opportunities, and after some miles we got a pair of Greater Hoopoe Larks nicely moving in the bare soil. We got even lucky to listen its beautiful song, a long whistle that is often (like this time) joined by a short displaying flight. Really happy with these great views we went back to hit the road until the afternoon, when we did a last stop to enjoy the lovely light. There, not far from Duqm, we did a stroll around and we got really good views on 1 Asian Desert Warbler doing its way while following a male Desert Wheatear.
Soon after that we arrived to our nice accommodation in Duqm, where we enjoyed a well deserved rest before dinner.
A bit of off-road was required but we finally got excellent views on Greater Hoopoe Lark (Alaemon alaudipes).Asian Desert Warbler (Curruca nana)
Day 9. After breakfast, our day started by doing a short walk to the small garden of our accommodation. Here we found a Red-breasted Flycatcher during our last visit in early December and, suprinsingly, the bird was still moving in this tiny garden! Purple Sunbirds were also seen here. A short drive led us then to a small canal with a rich reedbed where we saw 3 Wood Sandpipers, some Eurasian Teals, a Green Sandpiper and the very firsts Mallards of the tour (a flock of 6).
From here we transfered North to the massive mudflats around Masirah Island. There is an estimation of 1 million waders overwintering here, and once you visit the area you may consider this estimation as conservative. Soon, we had some Kentish & Lesser Sand Plovers along with Dunlins, Curlew Sandpipers and Little Stints. We took some time to check some of the several flocks of Gulls around, but nothing different appeared despite the good photo opportunities.
Back to the mudflats we enjoyed with the arrival of thousands of waders to the feeding areas. Bar-tailed Godwits were really common, as there were Dunlins, Common Redshanks, Grey Plovers, Eurasian Curlews and Greater Sand Plovers, some of them showing already a promising summer coloration. The scan around produced the very first Broad-billed Sandpiper, that was celebrated in the group. At the same time, a Clamorous Reed Warbler showed out from the mangrove vegetation, and we all finally got some views on a species that had been eluding us for all the tour long. A small flock of 7 Spotted Sandpipers were also seen, and when we were checking this gorgeous waders the very first Crab Plover appeared right in front of us! Always a gorgeous bird, almost the size of a Little Egret, the Crab Plovers move often here in pairs that consist in an adult with a juvenile that constantly beg for food. Little by little, more and more Crab Plovers were arriving, and we were able to see some birds catching and feeding on crabs. In only 30 minutes we counted up to 70 birds. Other species also appeared here including Caspian & Gull-billed Terns. We hoped for some Little/Saunder’s Terns to appear, but we didn’t have luck on this.
Our final stop of the day was to check a different corner of this massive mudflats. Here we had barely the same birds than in our previous stop out of Crab Plovers. Still, we got at least four more Broad-billed Sandpipers, 1 Striated Heron in the mangroves and some Eurasian Whimbrels for our day list.
From here we transfered to our accommodation, arriving there a bit after sunset.
Crab Plovers (Dromas ardeola) feeding surrounded by ither waders.Broad-billed Sandpiper (Limicola falcinellus).Greater Sand Plovers (Charadrius leschenaultii). Image by Moises Zozaya.
Day 10. Last morning in Oman. We drove the distance between our accommodation from Muscat with some stops in the way to take a look on some raptors. First a lienatus-like Black Kite, but later 3 Lappet-faced Vultures joined by 1 Imperial Eagle and some Egyptian Vultures were a good entertaiment for the very last miles before arriving to Muscat. Our last serious birding stop was devoted to explore the famous Al Mouj Golf Courser in search of the White-tailed Lapwing that had been seen during the last weeks. We were not lucky on the lapwing, but we still had some nice addings to our list including Ferruginous Duck (1 male), Eurasian Wigeon and 3 Greater White-fronted Geese. Along with them, we also had several Red-wattled Lapwings, Indian Rollers, Ruffs, Western Yellow Wagtails and Little Grebes in the ponds.
From here we just drove the very short distance to the airport, and got ready for our flights back to Europe!
And this is how we ended our 7th tour to Oman. Already looking forward our trip in 2024 to have more incredible sights in this awesome birding country!
Lappet-faced Vultures (Torgos trachilaetos) are surprisingly common in Northern Oman.Indian Roller (Coracias benghalensis) in a cloudy day to end the tour!
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