Welcome to the official blog site of Barcelona Birding Point, your new birding & wildwatching travel agency. Here you will find trip reports, detailed information about some of our tours, tips on conservation and more.
Arxiu de la categoria: Tours & Itineraries Reports
Islàndia és un típic viatge a illes, amb llistes no massa llargues però en aquest cas amb gran quantitat i qualitat d’espècies destacades. Destinació amb la que somnia un ornitòleg europeu tot mirant les guies d’identificació, amb espècies que pràcticament només es veuen en aquesta illa. Les dates es van escollir per tal de poder veure amb màxima activitat les colònies d’aus marines, els ocells aquàtics en plena reproducció i els primers ocells migradors tot retornant cap les zones d’hivernada cap al Sud. En resum, mirar d’aprofitar al màxim el curt però intents estiu àrtic.
Totes les imatges realitzades pel tour líder Sergi Sales. Tots els drets reservats.
Dia 1
Arribada puntual a Islàndia amb el nostre vol directe des de Barcelona. Malgrat això, el lent procés de lloguer de la furgoneta ens resta força temps per voltar tot just abans d’arribar a l’hotel. De totes formes ja comencem a veure i escoltar ocells que ja no ens abandonaran al llarg del viatge, com les daurades comunes, cignes cantaires, pòlits cantaires, xatracs àrtics i els espectaculars vols nupcial dels becadells comuns.
També és la primera oportunitat per anar acostumant el cos al fet que no marxi la llum en tota la nit. Un hotel perfectament ambientat en el món víking ens ajudarà a passar aquest procés.
Daurada grossa – European Golden Plover (Pluvialis apricaria)Becadell comú – Common Snipe (Gallinago gallinago) fent parada nupcial.
Dia 2
Després d’un bon esmorzar visitem una de les zones humides properes a la capital del país. Ràpidament, entremig de grans estols detectem una oca de les neus, tant blanca com inactiva ja que va restar descansant tot el matí, haurà tingut una nit moguda. Aquí, dos dels ànecs més comuns són l’èider comú i el morell de plomall. Els prats estan ocupats per una gran quantitat de daurades grosses i becadells. Escanejant les vores veiem un bon grup de limícoles entre els que destaquen remena-rocs i territs foscos. Entre gavians de potes roses, gavinots, gavines rialleres i gavians foscos, veiem el primer gavinot hiperbori del viatge. A les zones inundables també es veuen calàbries petites i becs de serra mitjans. El passeriforme més abundant és el tord ala-roig de la subespècie coburni, al qual només nidifica a les illes Faroe i a Islàndia, i uns quants d’ells ens van fer més entretingut el matí amb els seus continus viatges per agafar cucs de terra i fruits per alimentar els famolencs pollets. Prenent el sol veiem les primeres foques comunes del viatge.
Encara assimilant el bon número d’ocells vistos anem a un petit llac interior on veiem diversos nius i llocades de cabussons orelluts lluint espectaculars plomatge nupcials. Un grapat de petits i nerviosos limícoles es mouen molt a prop de la llera, són escuraflascons bec-fins, les femelles encara amb els seus plomatges lluents, ja que en aquest gènere els mascles llueixen colors molt més discrets i apagats que les femelles. Tot intentant fotografiar els escuraflascons s’escolten i veuen petits estols de passerells gola-negres.
Iniciem el viatge cap al nord oest, en direcció a la península de Snaefellsbaer, tot travessant uns increïbles paisatges, llarguíssims túnels per sota el nivell del mar i espais oberts on abunden els paràsits cuapunxeguts en les dues fases de color. Aquí també observem una llunyana àguila marina així com diverses parelles de calàbries grosses amb pollets.
Tal com ens anem apropant a la zona on restarem 2 dies, comencem a notar una pujada en la força del vent, un aire gèlid que no impedeix que les badies estiguin plenes de fulmars, somorgollaires alablancs i incomptables èiders, amb els mascles ja agrupats deixant les tasques de cria dels pollets a les sacrificades femelles.
Concentracions de gavines i gavians ens faciliten la detecció d’un bon nombre de gavinots hiperboris de diverses edats.
La zona inundada a pocs metres del lloc on dormim resulta ser espectacular. Aquí hi trobem una colònia de diversos centenars de parelles de xatracs àrtics, sorollosos, agressius i autèntics llançadors d’excrements a la gent que s’atreveix a creuar el camí. També hi han garses de mar amb pollets al propi pati de la casa, tètols cuanegres de la subespècie islandica, abundants i confiats escuraflascons bec-fins i un grapat de parelles de calàbries petites.
Nova oportunitat per adaptar-nos als horaris nòrdics, sopant quasi a les nostra hora habitual de berenar. Bacallà, salmó i xai excel·lentment cuinats seran la base típica dels sopars arreu a on anem.
Preocupats per si el vent ens suspendrà la sortida amb barca del dia següent però excitats pel que ens espera el dia següent, anem a dormir.
Només cal caminar 20 mts per tenir la sensació única de caminar entre centenars de xatracs àrtics, en aquest cas decidim fer-ho en vehicle per evitar anar ben “dutxats” per la resta de jornada. A la zona humida repetim espècies millorant les fotografies amb millor llum que el dia anterior.
Tot esperant embarcar a la nostra sortida pelàgica, gaudim a les calmades aigües del port de fulmars, gavots, somorgollaires i gavinetes tres-dits a molt poca distància.
Una vegada ben equipats i disfressats, arrenca el vaixell cap a les aigües de la badia, acompanyats de grans estols de fulmars i diverses espècies de làrids. A més de diferents espècies de cetacis, a les zones riques en afloraments es veuen grans agrupacions de somorgollaires, frarets, gavots i amb el seu ràpid vol, diverses baldrigues pufins. Mirant amb detall aquests grups mixtos, acabem trobant alguna baldriga grisa i almenys una baldriga capnegre, ocell marí escàs en Islàndia el qual nidifica a l’hemisferi sud i que ara estan hivernant en aigües de l’hemisferi nord.
El grup, preparat per a la sortida pelàgica.Baldriga pufí – Manx Shearwater (Puffinus puffinus).Baldriga grisa – Sooty Shearwater (Ardenna griseus)
Més que satisfets amb el resultat de la sortida, gaudim d’un altre espectacular menjar abans de dirigir-nos cap els penya-segats on hi ha espectaculars colònies d’aus marines. Es veuen els còlits grissos de la subespècie leucorhoa, típica d’aquesta illa.
La pluja i el fred s’intensifiquen però això no impedeix que seguim la ruta prevista quan des de la part de darrera de la furgoneta s’escolta “perdius!!”. Efectivament, una parella de perdius blanques restaven quietes al marge de la pista i després d’un curt vol les detectem a poca distància intentant assolir bones observacions. Tots dos exemplars s’alimenten tranquil·lament amb el mascle sempre alerta i marcant territori.
De sobte ja no tenim fred ni sembla que el plugim ens pugui xopar. Arribem als penya-segats, a on una quantitat ingent de nius de gavinetes tres-dits, gavots, somorgollaries, algunes frarets, corbs marins emplomallats atlàntics ens esperen i, mirant en detall, trobem unes quantes parelles de somorgollaries de Brünnich. Les costes d’Islàndia constitueixen una de les principals zones de nidificació per diferents espècies d’àlcids, en especial per al gavot, que concentra prop del 50% de la seva població mundial en aquesta illa.
La pluja i vent van decidir donar per finalitzada la seva treva. És el moment de tornar cap l’hotel i repetir restaurant a una simpàtica cambrera andalusa.
Abans d’esmorzar, decidim fer la darrera passejada pels estanyats a tocar de l’allotjament, arriscant la roba i càmeres tot caminant per la carretera on més d’un miler de xatracs àrtics ens estaven esperant amb moltes ganes. La cara d’estupefacció d’un grup d’ornitòlegs canadencs que ens vàrem trobar, delatava que els xatracs ens havien deixat ben tacats. Aquí també gaudim de vistes increïbles de parades nupcials de calàbries petites i més de 200 escuraflascons en tot tipus de plomatges a punt de començar el viatge cap les zones d’hivernada. Entre els grup de gavians apareixen alguns gavinots polars.
Camí cap l’est anem fent diverses aturades als fiords, on seguim veient èiders, gavinots hiperboris i algunes parelles nidificants de corriol gros de la subespècie psammodromus.
Entre foques hi veiem o, més aviat, intuïm els primers ànecs arlequins del tour. En ruta el més destacable va ser un mussol emigrant a plena llum del dia però amb la gran habilitat de creuar la carretera allà no podíem aturar-nos per intentar fotografiar-lo.
Abans de creuar un altre de les meravelloses obres que s’han fet en aquest país en forma de llargs túnels, ens aturem a la ciutat d’Akureyri, on una envejable zona verda amb basses i una badia propera, ens dóna bones observacions d’ànecs xiulaires, ànecs glacials, becs de serra mitjans i cabussons orelluts. En aquest sector les gavines cendroses són força abundants. S’havia vist un ànec xiulador americà el qual ens sembla veure entre el munt de xiulaires però que només el vàrem poder confirmar a l’observar diversos detalls en fotografies.
Satisfets, continuem el llarg viatge cap al mític llac de Mývant. Només arribar veiem a molt poca distància un espectacular mascle de morell d’Islàndia; sens dubte val la pena fer una aturada per gaudir d’uns dels objectius del viatge.
La resta de pas pel llac ens deixa bocabadats per la gran quantitat d’ocell i grups familiars que es veuen. La propera jornada promet molt!
Des de les finestres de l’hospedatge s’escolten i veuen diversos passerell golanegres, titelles i tords ala-rojos, sense dubte, els ocells més comuns. Curiosament una de les rareses del país són les nostres comunes fotges, de les quals havia niat per sorpresa una parella en el llac, però no la veiem…de moment.
Paisatges increïble de llacs, torrents i antics cràters amb una densitat espectacular de llocades de diverses espècies d’ànecs (xiulaires, glacials, morells de plomall, buixots, cuallargs, xarxets…). Aquí també observem confiats grups de morells que ens permet observar en detall els trets identificadors de les diverses espècies. Els escuraflascons són molt comuns i confiats, amb observacions a vegades ridícules.
Arreu veiem grups familiars d’ànecs, cabussons orelluts i totes dues espècies de calàbries. Decidim visitar el riu Laxá per mirar de buscar alguna femella d’ànec arlequí, curiosa anàtida que cria a rius d’aigües netes i ràpides. Tot i la presència de pescadors de truites i salmons, una confiada femella restava tranquil·lament prenent el sol sobre un pedra.
Continuem voltant el llac afegint a la llista ànecs negres, alguns amb nombroses llocades. Al marge d’un prat detectem un femella de perdiu blanca amb pollets, amagant-se entre la vegetació però sempre alerta i protegint la seva descendència.
Entre bromes i apostes de què passaria si de sobte algú detecta un grifó, de sobte Lluís dóna l’alerta de que sobre una roca hi havia un ferm sospitós, i efectivament un espectacular i blanquinós grifó restava a l’aguait i a l’espera de que es fiqués a prop alguna potencial presa. Aquest va ser, per molts, l’ocell del viatge!!!
Decidim anar cap al nord per anar al mític port de Húsavik, on assistim a l’espectacle de desenes de somorgollares alablancs i sobretot de l’increïble capacitat els frarets per seguir capturant peixet quan tenen el bec a bessar de preses.
Però el dia encara no s’havia acabat, seguim cap el nord i tot visitant un petit torrent que desemboca al mar veiem un impressionant grup d’ànecs arlequins, majoritàriament mascles, els quals en aquestes dates ja han abandonat els rius on nien per anar a mudar al mar. Al mar es veu un continu pas de diverses aus marines i una llunyana cua de Iubarta. Cansats però molt satisfets iniciem la tornada cap l’hotel.
Avui l’objectiu es fer un viatge cap el sector de la costa Est del país. Passant en 1er lloc pel vessant nord-est del llac de Mývant, repetint la majoria d’espècies vistes en visites anteriors. En ruta passem per espectaculars paisatges entre els quals apareixen torrents i petits llacs interiors on apareixen diversos grups familiars, a vegades força nombrosos, d’oques de bec-curt.
Fem aturada i breu visita a paisatges turístics com Þjóðvegur on per sorpresa i alertats pels crits d’alarma de les daurades grosses, veiem un grifó perseguint un segon falcònid el qual no arribem a temps de poder identificar.
Finalment arribem al port de Borgarfjörður eystri o el dia abans s’havia vist un espectacular adult de calàbria de bec pàl·lid. Diversos ornitòlegs de variades procedències vàrem estar cercant aquest ocell però malauradament no va aparèixer. Tot i que es va veure aquell dia, però només a primera hora, marxant del port per no tornar. Però tampoc teníem temps per avorrir-nos. Aquí, refiats ànecs glacials, arlequins i grups familiars d’èiders, van fer-nos molt entretinguda l’espera.
Posteriorment visitem una de les famoses colònies de frarets on durant una bona estona estàs submergit en l’atrafegat dia a dia d’aquests petits àlcids. Continua arribada i sortida d’adults portant menjar als polls ben amagats dins els caus, adults sempre perseguits i parasitats per diverses espècies de gavians, gavines i paràsits cuapunxeguts.
Fem la darrera aturada al port per si hagués tornat la calàbria però no vàrem tindre sort, a més, va entrar fort vent que encara va fer més complicada la visita.
Iniciem la tornada per aquestes suposades carreteres islandeses que en realitat són pistes locals sense asfaltar i els amenaçadors cartells que ens diuen que la propera benzinera està a 130 km!!!!
Molt satisfets amb com està anant el viatge, decidim visitar una de bona zona per veure sit blanc. Anem a les poques zones al nord de l’illa a on es podem veure en aquestes dates, tot tornant a visitar sectors del gran llac i cercant la gran raresa de la setmana, la fotja!!.
Tot just després de travessar una central d’aigües termals, arribem a una plana de prats on un enfeinat mascle de sit blanc creua volant la carretera. Emocionats aturem el vehicle i després d’una breu espera, veiem un parella d’aquest emberízid contínuament recollint menjar per dur al niu.
Un cop sadojats d’aquest fantàstic ocell, decidim fer una mica de turistes i visitar alguns dels monuments naturals propers d’aquesta meravellosa illa, a on lògicament no perdíem l’oportunitat de seguir veient ocells.
Després de dinar decidim intentar buscar un adult de calàbria agulla que estava veient en un llac interior, i després d’una bona estona de cerca, i entremig de diverses calàbries grosses va aparèixer una espectacular calàbria agulla, sempre a certa distància però permetent excel·lents visualitzacions. Trio de calàbries en aquest tour, encara sap més greu no veure la calàbria bec pàl·lid i haver fet un pòker.
Visitem sectors nous, com uns fiords al nord-est on es generen petits estuaris on sumem espècies noves com el paràsit boreal, diverses espècies d’ànecs i entremig de grans grups de morells de plomall una breu observació de morell petit, una espècie americana que havia estat observada al llarg de les últimes setmanes. Apurem al màxim la jornada tot i els breus plugims, fins que tornem a la zona on dormim per tal de degustar el darrer excel·lent sopar islandès.
Darrer intent per cerca la parella de fotges que es veia pel llac i com a persistència no ens guanya ningú, vàrem tenir per fi èxit!! Mai veure un fotja ens havia fet tanta il·lusió. Llarg trànsfer de tornada cap a la capital, on van sortint les espècies que hem anat veient al llarg del viatge. Un nou mussol emigrant creua la carretera però sense masses llocs per aturar-nos i poder-ho gaudir. Tot i la pluja mirem de trobar una parella d’esmirla que encara tenen llocada al niu i no triguem a veure els polls en uns petits afloraments rocallosos. La femella està ben a prop, tot custodiant el niu i el territori. L’observació es fa a prou distància per tal de no pertorbar la rutina de la família d’esmirles.
Poc després de creuar un dels túnels construïts sota l’aigua de la badies, veiem un altre grifó resseguint unes parets verticals.
A tocar de l’aeroport decidim probar sort a una zona boscosa a la cerca de trencapinyes i de reietons, espècies de distribució molt limitada, entre d’altres coses per la poca superfície arbrada que té l’illa. Als pocs minuts de caminar veiem diversos reietons, la majoria joves de l’any movent-se entre els arbres alhora que s’escolten grupets de trencapinyes sobrevolant el bosc.
Novament objectius complerts i amb temps decidim anar cap la tornada del vehicle i encetar el transfer cap l’aeroport. Ara sí, donem per acabat un gran viatge a un espectacular país.
Esmirla – Merlin (Falco columbarius).
Llistat d’espècies observades al llarg del tour:
Cigne cantaire (Cygnus cygnus)
Ànec blanc (Tadorna tadorna)
Oca de les neus (Anser caerulescens)
Oca comuna (Anser anser)
Oca de bec curt (Anser brachyrhynchus)
Ànec xiulador (Anas penelope)
Ànec xiulador americà (Anas americana)
Xarxet comú (Anas crecca)
Ànec coll-verd (Anas platythynchos)
Ànec cuallarg (Anas acuta)
Ànec griset (Marecca strepera)
Ànec cullerot (Spatula clypeata)
Morell de plomall (Aythya fuligula)
Morell buixot (Aythya marila)
Morell petit (Aythya affinis)
Èider comú (Somateria mollissima)
Ànec glacial (Clangula hyemalis)
Ànec harlequí (Histrionicus histrionicus)
Ànec negre (Melanitta nigra)
Morell d’Islàndia (Bucephala islandica)
Bec de serra gros (Mergus merganser)
Bec de serra mitjà (Mergus serrator)
Perdiu blanca (Lagopus mutus)
Fotja eurasiàtica (Fulica atra)
Cabussó orellut (Podiceps auritus)
Garsa de mar (Haematopus ostralegus)
Corriol anellat gros (Charadrius hiaticula)
Daurada grossa (Pluvialis apricaria)
Territ variant (Calidris alpina)
Territ fosc (Calidris maritima)
Territ gros (Calidris canutus)
Tètol cuanegre (Limosa limosa islandica)
Pòlit cantaire (Numenius phaeopus)
Becadell comú (Gallinago gallinago)
Gamba roja comuna (Tringa totanus)
Remena-rocs (Arenaria interpres)
Escuraflascons bec-fí (Phalaropus lobatus)
Gavina riallera (Chroicocepahlus ridibundus)
Gavina cendrosa (Larus canus)
Gavinot (Larus marinus)
Gavià de potes roses (Larus argentatus)
Gavià fosc (Larus fuscus)
Gavià hiperbori (Larus hiperboreus)
Gavinot polar (Larus glaucoides)
Gavineta de tres dits (Rissa trydactila)
Xatrac àrtic (Sterna paradisaea)
Paràsit gros (Stercorarius skua)
Paràsit cuapunxegut (Stercorarius parasiticus)
Somorgollaire comú (Uria aalge)
Somorgollaire de Brünnich (Uria lomvia)
Gavot comú (Alca torda)
Somorgollaire alablanc (Cepphus grylle)
Fraret comú (Fratercula arctica)
Calàbria petita (Gavia stellata)
Calàbria grossa (Gavia immer)
Calàbria agulla (Gavia arctica)
Fulmar (Fulmarus glacialis)
Baldriga pufí (Puffinus puffinus)
Baldriga grisa (Ardenna grisea)
Baldriga cendrosa (Ardenna gravis)
Mascarell atlàntic (Morus bassanus)
Corb marí gros (Phalacrocorax carbo)
Corb marí emplomallat (Gulosus aristotelis)
Àguila marina (Haliaaetus albicilla)
Mussol emigrant (Asio flammeus)
Esmirla (Falco columbarius)
Grifó (Falco rusticolus)
Colom roquer (Columba livia)
Corb comú (Corvus corax)
Reietó (Regulus regulus)
Estornell comú (Sturnus vulgaris)
Tord ala-roig (Turdus iliacus coburni)
Merla comuna (Turdus merula)
Còlit gris (Oenanthe oenanthe leucorhoa)
Titella (Anthus pratensis)
Cuereta blanca (Motacilla alba)
Passerell golanegra (Carduelis flammea)
Trencapinyes comú (Loxia curvirostra)
Sit blanc (Pletrophenax nivalis insulae)
Llistat de mamífers observats al llarg del tour:
Foca comuna (Phoca vitulina)
Foca grisa (Halichoerus grypus)
Iubarta (Megaptera novaeangliae)
Marsopa comuna (Phocoena phocoena)
Dofí de mussell blanc (Lagenorhynchus albirostris)
Overview: Our 8th issue exploring Northern Finland & Finnmark was another successful trip. The tour enjoyed mild weather during the first days of the trip, but the last days were cloudy and windy, with temperatures clearly lower than average. The last two days of the trip we got some light rain. In this trip we got nice views on all the species of Grouses and 5 species of Owls. The North of the itinerary was empty of rodents, and this explains the absence of Northern Hawk Owls and Rough-legged Buzzards (only 2 seen). On raptors, this was partially compensated by the occurrence of a male Pallid Harrier the first days of the trip. It was also a low year for Redpolls, and both Mealy and Arctic (now lumped in a single species) were showing in modest numbers.
All images in this trip report by tour leader Carles Oliver. All rights reserved.
Day 1. During the afternoon, all the tour participants are assembling at the Oulu Airport. Meet and greet at the terminal, and once the vehicle is collected we directly drive to our accommodation. After dinner we still have time for some birding, and taking advantage of the good light we had a walk to check in the bay beside our hotel. Here we got the first views on Common Rosefinch of the trip, but also other species including Red-breasted Merganser, Great Crested Grebe, Greenshank, Sedge Warbler and a distant flock of Common Cranes feeding in the bay. A drake Garganey is also very nice pick up, and our list also includes a distant Lesser Black-backed Gull (nominal race) and Common Snipes displaying in the air. After a few more minutes we called a day and come back to our rooms for a short sleep.
Day 2. Very early morning start. After leaving the accommodation with our local guide we go to the woodlands. Here we get a first stop to see a Eurasian Eagle Owl that is roosting along one lane. The Owl didn’t enjoy our company so it went deeper in the forest, we all got very nice scope views. Always a treat!
A second stop was made way inside the forest. This time to visit a nest of Great Grey Owl. After a short walk in the forest we enjoyed great views of the female on a massive nest of Northern Goshawk. Definitely a wonderful sight! Around it, we had both Spotted & Pied Flycatchers and, in the way to our van a distant, familiar call caught our attention, and the time proved us right when a wonderful Eurasian three-toed Woodpecker just emerged from the woods to stop right by the road, working in one of the oldest trees around. Jackpot! We were not expecting this species to show here!
From here we drove a short distance into a small backyard. As we arrive, a family group of Scandinavian Bullfinches (a very distinctive race both in size and in voice) were very showy in the trees around. Here we also got nice views on Goldcrest and our first Greenfinch was singing from high up in the tree. Soon, the first reason of our visit here was audible in the distance, and it didn’t take long to show up: a wonderful Black Woodpecker that landed a few meters away from us, in their way to attend its nest in the backyard. Very happy with this sight we only had to move slightly around the same tree to face a second whole. This time was a Tengmalm’s Owl that was on the nest! Amazing! It is always great to see this super cute creatures, especially when it comes to owl chicks.. After a few minutes enjoying this amazing bird and a couple of other small passerines, we went back to minibus.
Our last stop of the morning was to get deep into the boreal forest. a ten minutes walk into the habitat was mandatory to reach our goals there. This is normally a nice place for woodpeckers, but after we already nealed the Three-toed Woodpecker we focused in smaller species. In our we heard 1 Wood Warbler singing and we saw Tree Pipit, Eurasian Treecreeper, Lesser Whitethroat and a few Robins. Suddenly we arrived into a place where many birds were singing. There were Siskins but also Great & Blue Tits and Common Chaffinches. Not surprisingly, an Eurasian Pygmy Owl was the cause of all that mess. The owl was high up in the tree and we were lucky to find it! During the next minutes, we were enjoying the Owl, trying different angles to have better views/shots. While exploring the forest we also found a Lesser Spotted Woodpecker that showed out very well before we arrive to a Grey-headed Woodpecker nesting hole! The male performed very well of us, showing out for at least 10 minutes!
Back to the road, we had to a couple of stops because of Eurasian Woodcocks moving really close to the tarmac before arriving to the last stop of the morning. Here we visited a nesting pair of Ural Owls. When we arrived, it was quite cloudy and the female Ural Owl was inside the nesting box, providing really good scope views.
Great Grey Owl sitting on its nest. A wonderful sight!This Three-toed Woodpecker popped out from the forest. A really unexpected sight!Black Woodpecker showed really well around its nesting hole.Tengmalm’s Owl inside its nest hole in a private gardenWe were very lucky to pick up this Eurasian Pygmy Owl up in the trees. Here a closer look!Lesser Spotted WoodpeckerGrey-headed Woodpecker showing very nicely
Very excited after this wonderful morning, we went for an early lunch followed by a resting time in our accommodation. The after was sunny, and we kept going with the planning, going to check a massive bog area South of Oulu. As we went inside the place, we got nice views on some common species here including Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Yellowhammer, Pied Flycatcher, Lesser Whitethroat, Yellow Wagtail and Spotted Flycatcher. The path crosses and large area of bog, and here we got some Marsh Harriers flying around, and excitement rocked up when a wonderful male Pallid Harrier just came to us crossing the bog. Even if never came really close, this was one of the birds of the week for some of us! Beyond, we got the first (far) views on Ruff and White-tailed Eagle. The only one Caspian Tern of the trip was seen here, and the list was also including Garganey and 1 Taiga Bean Goose that flew over our group.
After dinner we still had energy to check a nesting place of Terek’s Sandpiper. Unfortunately, with no luck..
This male Pallid Harrier was one of the surprises of our first day!
Day 3. After enjoying a very good breakfast we left our accommodation and start heading East. Our first stop that morning was to check a couple of places looking for Ortolan Bunting. Our first stop produced Common Whitethroat, Curlews, Rooks, Green Sandpiper and close views on a pair of Grey Partridges. Following the lovely lanes that cross the farming around Oulu we soon arrived into a second interesting spot. Here, we soon heard at least 3 Ortolan Buntings singing around. Yellowhammers & Reed Bunting were both common here and it was not easy to connect with the Ortolans in the misty ambient. Still, after a few minutes, we got some proper views. From here we drove a few mile into a nice area of forest where we got really nice looks on both Garden Warbler and a very showy Common Rosefinch. A male European Honey Buzzard flew over us, clapping its winds up head in a phenomenal display that, for me, was one of the best behavioural tips of the trip! In this same spot we got our first Hazel Grouse singing around. This is normally a nice place to try to see it, and the bird did a couple of crossings at close range. Unfortunately not everybody in the group connected with the bird, and after a time trying to have better views we finally decided to leaving for another day and go to check a nearby pond where a drake Slavonian Grebe was waiting for us! After enjoying close views on this little gems we kept driving East, and after having an en route lunch we arrived to Kuusamo.
Grey Partridge was a nice adding to our listCommon Rosefinch singing his heart out from the top of a small pineLovely Slavonian Grebe showing its puffs up!
It was a cloudy afternoon in Kuusamo. Our first movement in this new area was to check a couple of places for Little Bunting, with little reward out of distant Little Gulls, Sand Martins (new for the trip) and the nice sand rather distinctive song of the “abietinus” race of Willow Warbler. The last stop before arriving to visit a colony of Little Gulls. Here we got excellent views on the smallest gull, but also on the nesting Red-necked Grebes and Whooper Swans distant 5 Black-throated Divers and Goldeneyes and the first Brambling of the trip!
Redwings became even more obvious around KuusamoWood Sandpiper is a common breeder in marshes of all sizes in Northern FinlandLittle Gull around one colony
Day 4. As usual in this areas, we had a very early start of the day before going to the forest. En route, we had a first en route stop. Here we got ruff views on a couple of Rustic Buntings that we heard as we were driving. A bit beyond, we got a small flock of Common Crossbills. The first Grouse drive of the trip was not totally successful. Still, we got nice views on the 1st Willow Grouse of the trip before arriving in a lek of Capercaillies. Here, Mark got a bird moving behind a bush, and this is how we got our first male Capercaillie lekking in the forest! We all got good views but we couldn’t get pictures, the bird went into a small ditch and went away from us.
After a shortwalk in the forest, we enjoyed our take away breakfast. Here we got a good number of forest passerines including Golcrests, Siskins, Redstarts, Pied Flycatchers, Willow Warblers, Treecreepers, all of them at close range. Back to the van, we did a bit more of Grouse drive, and we got a second lekking Capercaillie that provided way better views than the first views. After some coffee we tried a different place for Rustic Bunting with a nice male appearing in front of us and singing for long, and our efforts got rewarded with good views on Tree Pipits and, especially, some amazing views on an extremely obliging pair of Willow Grouses! They were so close that we could hear the noise of their long claws when classing the tiny rocks of the lane..
From here we drove to one of the most famous hills around Kuusamo. Walking up the hill, we got nice views on Bullfinches and Willow Tits, and once we arrived to the top we got views into 2 elusive Siberian Jays. It was a sunny morning, and soon we were hearing a lovely Red-flanked Bluetail singing from the top of the canopy. It didn’t take long to us to locate the bird, that a few minutes later came down to the ground to feed around, providing excellent views and photo chances! From the top of the hill we still got scope views on a second Red-flanked Bluetail and a Merlin flying at full speed on its way North!
To end the morning, we had a stop in a couple of ponds. Here we got Wigeons, Eurasian Teals, Tufted Ducks, Little Gulls and Goldeneyes. Common Sandpiper was new for the trip and other waders here included Common Snipe, Greenshank and Wood Sandpiper. Still, the best bird in this stop was the drake Smew that was swimming along with Goldeneyes.
After lunch, we went into a different place looking for Rustic Bunting, and this time we got very nice views on a singing male. A Hazel Grouse was singing around, but again we only got a male flying around the group, and with the tip of a Black Kite as we were enjoying the landscape at our accommodation.
The first bird of the morning was this shy Rustic BuntingMale Capercaillie moving in the woodsAmazing close up to female Willow GrouseAnd here, the male. It was so close that the all were about to touch it!Rather distant, but solid views on Rustic Bunting!A nice flock of drake GoldeneyesRed-flanked Bluetail showed very nicely to our group!A very attractive pair of Smews to end the morning!
Day 5. After enjoying breakfast at our accommodation, we drove back to some good areas for Grouses. Here we got nice views into a female Black Grouse before going for a short walk in the boreal forest. Our main goal was to contact with Hazel Grouse, but we had no luck. In the walk we had Willow Tit and an flock of unidentified Crossbills before transfering North. It was a poor year for Northern Hawk Owl, but we information of a recent sight midway between Kuusamo and Ivalo. We drove there and invested a couple of hours exploring the massive fogs around. Unfortunately we got no Owls, but 2 very showy Siberian Jays while Bohemian Waxwing, European Golden Plover and Mealy Redpolls were new for the trip. Other species here included Wood Sandpiper, Eurasian Sparrowhawk and a couple of flocks of Common Cranes.
Black Grouse up in a tree as we were about to start our short walkLovely Eurasian Siskin, a fairly common bird in the boreal forest
After some lunch, we arrived around Ivalo, where we invested some time exploring one of the many lanes around the town. It was a sunny afternoon with temperatures of 22ºC so, rather warm for this latitude. Along the lane we amazing and very close views on different females of Black Grouses, and a couple of Siberian Tits emerged from the boreal forest for the enjoyment of the photographers in the group. Along the afternoon we also got 2 Willow Grouses at short range, Redpolls, 3 Bohemian Waxwings and a few Mistle Thrushes (rather scarce this year along our itinerary) and 2 very showy Siberian Jays, but the best was the 4 different female Western Capercaillies that gave us quite a show, with their fan-like tails up and their amazing gorges down in an extremely interesting behaviour! Without doubt, one of the best sights on female Capercaillie for me after so many years!!
Very glad after such a great afternoon, we just covered the short distance to our accommodation before enjoying a very tasty dinner!
During the afternoon we got some amazing views on three species of Grouses. Here a female Black Grouse.Siberian Tit, a must for any birdwatcher exploring this regionOur afternoon in the boreal forest included very good looks on Siberian JaysNo words for this stunning sight on female Capercaillie!
Day 6. After having breakfast in our accommodation we drove a couple of miles to stop in a quite famous place for Little Bunting. Even if far away, we soon had nice scope views in this little fella while 2 more of them were singing around. It was again a sunny, and since we had not visited any bird tower for the last days we decided to go into a close one to have a fast look around. Here we got the first Whimbrel of the trip plus distant views on Goosander, Yellow Wagtail and Common Crane. Back to the road, we had to do an emergency stop because it was a male Parrot Crossbill feeding on the tarmac, but unfortunately I was the only to see them. With the van in the middle of the lane, we all realised that we were having a gorgeous female of Capercaillie right in front of us, watching us and deciding whether it was a good moment to cross the road, or not.
From here we went into a different spot, a nice boreal forest. Again, our main goal was Hazel Grouse, the only forest Grouse that was somehow scaping good views.. This area is normally good for forest birds, but this year was very low. Still, soon we got a male Hazel Grouse singing deep in the forest. We moved slowly, tracking him along the lanes. It sounded close and it seemed like singing from the ground, which is always better to try to locale this species. I was walking side by side with Mike, when he suddenly pointed out to the ground, only about 10 metres away from us: He had found the male Hazel Grouse! He was extremely happy. For him, it was the end of a long pursuit. Even if being a big lister with several thousands of birds on it, he had been missing this bird for years, even if he was trying in a few countries! I was very happy, especially to know that he self-found the bird!!
After the male, we also got the female deep in the forest. Both birds walked away a bit from us, getting inside a forest landscape puzzled with boulders and dead trees. It took us about 20 minutes to get everybody on the birds, as they were moving slowly down, and the work became easier once Núria settled down that the male was jumping up into a specific boulder to sing from there every few minutes. Scoping that rock, everybody enjoyed a bit of these Grouses!
In this issue we only got scope views on Little Bunting. Here a record shot.Hazel Grouse showed very well after a long search. A great spot by Peter!
After this we just started the transfer to Norway, with a lunch stop in one of the famous feeding stations for Pine Grosbeak that, this time, produced nothing.
From here we had some solid drive North, but with stops that allow us nice views on Smew, Red-breasted Merganser, Velvet Scoter, Bluethroat and one of the very few Rough-legged Buzzards of the trip along with commoner species.
I was enjoying the drive inside Norway when suddenly a “Moooooooooossse” came from the last raw of seats of the van! Yes, Mike got a Moose in a small field beside the road. After a safe stop in the lane, we all enjoyed a very nice views on the Moose, before it vanished inside the dense and low birches.
A first stop in Varanger produced scope views on Temminck’s Stints along with Redshanks & Oystercatchers and many, many Common Ringed Plover. A bit further, we did a second stop to enjoy the first White-tailed Eagles of the trip, and here we got lucky and we found a nice flock of 80+ Red Knots in full summer plumage! Along with them, Bar-tailed Godwits, Dunlins and other species!
The bird feeders are a nice place to enjoy some common species. Here a Great Spotted Woodpecker showing its tongue.The first Moose of the trip always creates a big wave of happiness in our groups. The image is a bit blurry, but it deserves to be here
After checking in at our accommodation in Varanger we still had plenty of time to enjoy some top locations. In Vadso we spent some lovely time in one of its famous “Pharalope ponds”. Here we got to see this small creatures very close as they were feeding and courtshipping in the water. The afternoon was lovely but not very sunny. Still, we had great views on these wonderful birds, in a moment that normally is one of the highlights of our time in Norway. Along with them, some gorgeous Ruffs were also lekking, and yet this was another very special moment. There were males of the different colours that fighted for the attention of a couple of females moving in the grass. But these were not the only birds around. A pair of Temminck’s Stints were feeding at close range, and we also got a Bluethroat moving in the vegetation as well as a couple of Red-throated Pipits. Both Arctic Skuas and Arctic Terns were flying over the small lagoon and the bay beyond was full of Common Eiders & Goosanders. Unfortunately no Steller’s Eiders this year, as the seemed to be vanished from the area weeks ago.
After such a great stop, we still had some time to check a small corner that it is very nice for waders. Here we got excellent views on a large flock of drake Dunlins but also 2 Temminck’s Stints and Bar-tailed Godwit to end another wonderful day!
During our first drive in Varanger we got some very close views on White-tailed EaglesTemminck’s Stint on its nesting siteThis wonderful Ruff was taking a break on the fights..A couple Red-necked Phalarope female close ups
Day 7. After enjoying a gorgeous breakfast at our accommodation we transferred North to Vadso. The main goal of the day was to visit Hornoya and its massive see bird colony. Our drive North had some stops to see Golden Plovers but also White-tailed Eagles, Arctic Skuas and a couple of Willow Ptarmigans standing up in the tundra. The drive also produced a small flock of Tundra Bean Geese in some fields next to the road.
After a short boat trip, we arrived to Hornoya. The boat trip produced little beyond a couple of distants Grey Seals, Black Guillemots and flocks and flocks of Auks as we were approaching the island. Hornoya hosts a massive number of seabirds. Here there about 100.000 sea birds, with Kittiwake being the commoner followed by Common Guillemots, both with tens of thousands of pairs. Along with them there a few thousand of pairs of Razorbills and Atlantic Puffins. Shags, Brünnich’s Guillemots and Fulmars are also nesting here, the last with only a few pairs.
It didn’t take long for us to find some pairs of Brünnich’s Guillemots nesting in the cliffs, normally about 20 to 40 metres high, in all nests of Kittiwakes. Along the following hours, we enjoyed the breathtaking ambient of the colony. Those in the group that wanted to explore the upper part of the island had nice views on Red-throated Pipits and Barnacle Geese, and those who prefered to stay lower had good views on Purple Sandpipers and Water Pipits.
Black Guillemot in VardoBrünnich’s Guillemots on their nesting corniseGuillemots only a few inches awayAtlantic Puffins were very tame, as usualFace to face with Atlantic PuffinThis year there weren’t many
Back to the continent, we did a picnic stop in a nice tundra patch. It was our first stop in a proper tundra, but unfortunately the weather was misty and cold, and we had only a few birds around. It became windy, but during our drive North from Vardo, we had a number of stops in sheltered bays that allowed to connect with some good birds. Here we had large flocks of Long-tailed Ducks but also several Red-throated Diver and a nice mixed flock of Common & Velvet Scoters. Black Guillemots and Goosanders were everywhere. But the best bird in these bays was a drake White-billed Diver that, even if a bit far, produced nice scope views. A bit beyond, we had a couple of Minke Whales swimming really close to the coast, and we stopped a couple of minutes to check around. It was time enough for Mark to find a White-billed Diver in the sea, right out from where were. Second for the afternoon!
We still drove beyond, eventually arriving to the end of the lane. This is a nice place to check the sea. We are actually out of the Varanger fjord, and facing North into the Arctic Ocean, it will be nothing between us and the Svalbard archipelago, about 1000 miles North! This is also nice place for seabirds to migrate. It is still migration, and birds keep moving East along this coast, in their way to their nesting grounds in Central Siberia. Here we had the first Atlantic Gannets of the trip, but also several Auks, 2 Fulmars (blue form), at least 1 Pomarine Skua and a wonderful Great Northern Diver still in winter plumage and quite close to the coast. From here we just drove South, and this last transfer didn’t produce any new species out of a flock of 6 Pink-footed Geese close to Vadso.
This is best image that we could get on White-billed Diver
Day 8. This day was devoted to explore the central plateau of Varanger. This is one of the most spectacular places to be along our itinerary. After breakfast, we drove up the plateau. Once arrived to the high tundra, our way was always joined by several Willow Grouses and the majestic Long-tailed Skuas nesting around. A first stop produced Bluethroat and a shy pair of Arctic Redpoll. Temminck’s Stints were flying around along with Red-necked Phalaropes. Here and there there were small flocks of busy Ruffs lekking in the tundra. Most of the tundra was covered with snow and the birds were concentrated in the few patches of grass, and conveniently along both sides of the lane. Here we saw 4 Shore Larks but also several Lapland Buntings displaying and feeding on the ground, one of them moving along a female Snow Bunting. Cannot remember of this was before or after having the first of many Rock Ptarmigans. On Rock Ptarmigans, a first highlight was to see a pair displaying, with a second highlight including a male Rock Ptarmigan & male Willow Grouse standing next to each other! Here we also had several waders including Golden Plover, Little Stint, Whimbrel, Curlew, Temminck’s Stint, Wood Sandpiper, Common Snipe, Bar-tailed Godwit and 2 Turnstones flying in the hills covered with snow. Quite a sight!
We had close views on Bluethroat on our first stop in the morningWillow Grouse showed superbly, once more!Long-tailed SkuaDunlin in full summer plumageRock Ptarmigan hiding as the weather became really cloudySnow Bunting feeding along a minor laneTundra Bean Goose & Red-necked Phalarope. A nice combination!
Exploring the Northern coast of Varanger, we had a rather poor afternoon. The day was very quiet with no wind and probably that explained the absence of migration in the sea. The last movement of the day was to check the bays around Bervelag. Here we got 4 King Eiders, including 2 bizarre-looking second summer males. In our way back, the most interesting sight was a female Merlin, some Black-throated Divers and a very attractive Stout that Paddy found in a typical place for Gyrfalcon that produced no falcons.
King Eiders showing their “gentle” faces.This Stout was a funny way to end the afternoon. The Wheatear saw it in a different way..
Day 9. Going back to Finland we had a stop in a small nature reserve at the very beginning of the Varanger fjord. Here we got Tree Sparrow (very scarce here), 2 Sand Martins (rare) and still 2 Little Gulls in summer plumage. It was windy and cloudy so a good day for birds to move and to find birds out of their normal spots. The tide was high, with only some yards of tidal marsh out of the water right in front of the two small hides of the nature reserve. Even if nothing very spectacular, here we got lovely views on summer plumaged Little and Temminck’s Stints feeding side to side along with other common species.
Back to Finland, we had a pair of stops under the (already) solid rain. Here we got nice views on a drake Spotted Redshank, a few Bohemian Waxwings and 2 close Taiga Bean Geese. The rain was making difficult to scan for waders in the bojs, but the rain had been really nice for us. The ambient so fresh and cloudy in the border between Norway and Finland that we saw up to 7 Moose, including some extremely close views providing us with great photo opportunities! Arrived to our accommodation in the afternoon, we had plenty of time to enjoy up to 4 Pine Grosbeaks at the feeding station to end our last full day!
Legendary views on Moose..We were lucky to pick up this Arctic Redpoll. There really few this year!Bohemian Waxwing along the road as we were crossing large boreal forestsDespite the rainy afternoon, the day ended with superb views on Pine Grosbeaks
Day 10. This day we agreed an early start to try to catch up with a couple of species that we were still missing. Our first movement was to check a nesting place for Broad-billed Sandpiper, and we had extremely good views on a bird singing, displaying and feeding on the ground. Always a pleasure to see how their plumage matches so well with the landscape where they belong! Here we also got 3 drake Spotted Redshanks, Red-necked Phalaropes and Ruffs about to lek in the cloudy ambient.
From here we moved into a forest, with the hope to connect with Parrot Crossbill. We got more Willow Grouses, Rough-legged Buzzard and a couple of Smews in the way, but our efforts to put down the Parrot Crossbill in the list of trip had no reward.
From here we just drove to the airport to end another great trip in Northern Finland and Finnmark. Very looking forward to be back there in 2026! Impossible to get enough of this place!!!
This Broad-billed Sandpiper gave us a show in the last morning of the tour!
Overview: 11th issue for the birding tour company Barcelona Birding Point exploring Southern Morocco. The first days of this issue have been conditioned by a heavy snowfall in the High Atlas. There, our group had to invest longer than usual in order to connect with the main specialties living in the highest part of this massive mountain range. This meant less time to explore wetlands, meaning a shorter list of birds. Despite this, the group got a couple of scarcities for the country; Blue-winged Teal (vagrant from North America) & Spotted Crake (a pretty scarce migratory species in Morocco). The desert and the mountain steppes were as wonderful as always! Despite the fast development, Morocco keeps the whole of its exotims, and remains as one of the main birding destinations in the Western Palearctic due to its landscapes, cultural richness and a wide selection of specialties just beside Europe!
All images in this trip report from Sergi Sales. All rights reserved
Day 1
The tour participants meet for breakfast at our accommodation in Marrakech. Some of them arrived just after breakfast, coming from a different accommodation. After this delicious meet and greet we are ready to start the tour!
As usual, several House Buntings are singing in the gardens of the accommodation, joined by some very noisy Common Bulbuls and by the fast flights of the Pallid Swifts living around.
From here we drove a few miles, into a wooded valley. Here we had our first White Storks, Spotless Starlings, European Red-rumped Swallows & Western Cattle Egrets of the trip, but also the Moroccan race of White Wagtail (until recently still considered as a full species, so something interesting to take a look at it..). After a few minutes we found the first speciality of the tour, as a Levaillant’s Green Woodpecker is moving in some large trees. Up to 4 birds are seen during this stop. Here there are several African Chaffinches (a 2024 split from Common Chaffinch), African Blue Tits and the very contrasted race of Great Spotted Woodpecker.
After this very nice first stop, we headed up into the hillsides. But our route became harder than expected. Our track was damaged during the earthquake in late 2023 but now we are also facing some strong rain. As we keep gaining in altitude, the rain becomes icy rain and, later on, snow. Halfway we made a stop in a typical place for Tristam’s Warbler but the weather conditions are far from average.. Still, a small patch of blue sky allows some birding activity, and this is translated in a showy male Blue Rock Thrush, joined by the first Moussier’s Redstart of the trip and a wonderful Rock Bunting. 3 species within a few inches from each other! This very nice sight aims us to follow up the road. There are only 5 miles left to Oukaimeden ski resort, but this is when the snow becomes very strong, reducing the visibility both on the tarmac and in the air. We took advantage of this horrible weather conditions to taste our first tajin of the trip in a road restaurant, and since the weather keep getting worst we decided to quit the upper part of the road and go down to the valley.
The ends in the plains around Marrakech, where despite the cold temperatures (+5ºC) we got the first Moroccan Magpies, Long-legged Buzzards and Greater Short-toed Larks of the trip plus one obliging Stone Curlew.
Day 2
Due to the bad weather the first day we decided a change in the original planning and to go back to the road leading to Oukaïmeden early in the morning, expecting the road to be open. The weather looks very good and we managed to arrive to the ski resort despite the snow and the low temperatures.
Lower than expected we found a nice flock of Atlas Horned Larks, and while enjoying this species we also discovered one pair of Black Wheatears and a couple of shy Ring Ouzels. At the lake of the ski resort we got Eurasian Coots but also the nesting pair of White-bellied Dippers (this is one of the Southernmost territories of this species!). Around there were more Atlas Horned Larks along with Thekla Larks and the large flocks of Red-billed Choughs that were wondering around all along the morning started to be joined by Alpine Choughs. Around the buildings there were also a good number of Common Rock Sparrows. But no sign of the Crimson-winged Finches. Other small groups of birdwatchers from different nationalities were (British, Belgians, Dutchs,..) also looking for these buggers. We kept looking for them and at the end a small flock of this sought-after species flew right in front of us. Wonderful!
More than satisfied after this in extremis sight we started the long transfer to the Souss Massa National Park. En route, while crossing the breathtaking landscapes of the Atlas mountains, we enjoyed species such as Alpine & Little Swifts and the first Spanish Sparrows of the trip in a mixed colony in the motorway. Once the night arrived, already close to our accommodation, we got Stone Curlews and Little Owls crossing the road plus one very fast Long-eared Owl that not everybody could see.
Atlas Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris atlas)Alpine Chough (Pyrrhocorax graculus).African Crimson-winged Finch (Rhodopechys sanguineus alienus).A second view on the African Crimson-winged Finch, this time showing the lovely roseate primaries.
There are several reasons to visit the Souss-Massa area, but there is always something special when it comes to try to connect with Black-crowned Tchagras, since this is one of their Northernmost spots in the African continent! So we leave our accommodation for a pre-breakfast walk to explore the mixture of farming and bushland surrounding our privileged location. It didn’t take long to listen the first Tchagra and also a good number of Western Olivaceous Warblers plus a good variety of migratory passerines. Common Quails are singing in the fields around but they are as secretive and shy as usual, and they keep into hide despite our efforts. Moussier’s Redstarts, on the contrary, stand at the opposite side of the spectrum, and show themselves on terrific views!
Happy after this nice stat of the day, we came back to the accommodation to enjoy a wonderful breakfast.
Back to the fields, we contact with a showy Black-winged Kite in our way to one of the several water ponds along the river. This time we are lucky, and the Kite goes on with great display show. Here, the plentiful crops around are thriving with passage birds including Willow, Western Subalpine & Western Orphean Warblers but also Tree Pipits and Woodchat Shrikes.
Our first pond produces a good array of waders and ducks, and our growing list is complemented with the first flock of Brown-throated Martins flying over the ranking vegetation along with other species of Swallows & Martins.
From here we walk along the Massa River following the way down to its estuary. Along the way we find a number of ducks and waders as well as Greater Flamingoes and Glossy Ibises. We also meet other birdwatchers that have seen the long staying Green-winged Teals. After a long scanning, we finally found them resting along with Northern Shovelers and our efforts were rewarded with good views on the male as it came out of the vegetation for a swim.
At noon, we went to enjoy our picnic boxes in one of the impressive beaches next to the estuary. Here it is possible to enjoy a good seawatching, and we are lucky enough to have a good passage of Atlantic Gannets that they. Along with them we also get a few Great & Arctic Skuas. Migration was intense at that moment, and we got flocks of Eurasian Spoonbills and Grey Plovers moving North along the coastline. Still, our main goal here was to find the critically endangered Northern Bald Ibis, that has along this coast their only three self-sustained colonies in the world. We were about to give up when suddenly 3 Bald Ibis emerged, moving towards the sea cliffs where they would spend that night!
Day 4
Our pre-breakfast outing produces nice views on Barbary Partridges but also on Little Owl and several Moroccan Magpies. After breakfast we started transfering to Boulmane du Dades; a rather long drive crossing the impressive Anti Atlas landscapes. This is normally a good drive for birds of prey, but this time was rather low. Still, we got the first Bonelli’s Eagles of the trip. Right before crossing Ouarzazate we made a stop in a little pond that had been very good in previous trips, and it didn’t disappoint us neither this year. Here we got Little Ringed Plover, Black Wheatears and Ruddy Shelducks, but also the first Maghreb Larks & Desert Larks of the trip. Still, the best bird in this stop was a Spotted Crake that came out of the rank vegetation giving excellent views to the group.
After this stop we covered the last miles until our accommodation, arriving there about sunset. Tomorrow we will head to the famous Tagdilt Track!
Barbary Partridges (Alectoris barbara)Spotted Crake (Porzana porzana) in a small stream in the Anti Atlas.
Day 5
We headed to explore the large seme desert plain known as Tagdilt Track, probably the best location for Larks and Wheatears in the Western Palearctic. It didn’t take long to find the first of many White-crowned Black Wheatear, always a wonderful bird to admire! The area is fulfilled with birds, despite the many plastics around. Here there several pairs of Red-rumped Wheatears, some of them already with their chicks running around. Still, the commoner of the Wheatears around is the Desert Wheatear. Here there are also some migratory species, including both Northern & Western Black-eared Wheatears! It doesn’t look like a good year for Thick-billed Larks, and during the morning we fail to find any of them. Going away from the “rubbish dump” we soon find several Desert Larks and Bar-tailed Larks (usually uncommon here). Among the many Thekla Larks here we found the first Greater Hoopoe Lark of the trip and, while enjoying this beauty a flock of Cream-coloured Courser crosses the track providing great looks! Back to the rubbish dump we found also a small flock of Temminck’s Lark, similar to Horned Lark but smaller and living in dry ambients.
The temperature climbs up and we go to explore to the gorges around expecting to find also some shade. Just after arriving a Lanner Falcon flew at short distance above the group, trying to catch a Desert Lark.
After a short walk we arrived in front of a small cave and the local guide there showed us a Pharaon Eagle Owl with 3 small chicks. Close by we also get Long-legged Buzzards, that look like nesting around. Trumpeter Finches are flying around and a bit beyond we got a distant Maghreb Wheatear. Unfortunately it is shy and we need an extra walk to get nice views on the pair nesting around. More than satisfied with this stop, we went back to the plains and soon we contact with a Thick-billed Lark that shows out before disappearing in the vegetation..
Late in the afternoon we went up into the Dades Gorge to look for Tristam’s Warbler, a species that we couldn’t find during the first day because of the bad weather. A few minutes after arriving to the spot, a male was heart singing and shortly we found the bird, that provided very good looks. Back to the accommodation we still had a final chapter for the day as a Bonelli’s Eagle flew over us at close range bringing a massive branch at the peak to land in the cliffs beyond right by the nest! This is normally a good place for Barbary Falcon, but there is no luck for this bird this year.. We get inside our accommodation, still hearing the songs of Blue Rock Thrushes and Black Wheatears arond it!
Tristam’s Warbler (Curruca deserticola).
Dia 6
Long trasfer to the first dunes of the Sahara. En route, we went for a stop looking for the often secretive Streaked Bush Warbler (often referred in this area as Saharan Scrub Warbler and a full species regarding some lists). We had some walk in the sandy terrain surrounded by goats and enjoying several Great Grey Shrikes, when we heard the call of the birds and after some running we all got good views on a family group as there were moving on the ground or inside the tiny, spiny bush.
It is almost lunch time so we went into a nearby restaurant to enjoy a very nice set menu lunch. It is Ramadah, but it is not hard to find places like along our way. After lunch we kept moving to Merzouga and after a couple of less productive stops we arrived to the impressive lagoon nearby Merzouga. The lagoon had been dry for 5 years, but the generous rains during the last winter made it happen, and the lagoon looked like amazing. Here we got the typical image of Flamingoes framed with sand dunes that made this place became famous worldwide, but we also enjoyed the good array of nesting birds around: Ruddy Shelducks, Black-winged Stilts + Little Ringed & Kentish Plovers. The lagoon also hosted scarce migratory birds including Black-necked Grebe and Osprey and, most importantly, a shy and very distant flock of Marbled Ducks!
Very early in the morning we met our local guides coming with its full-equiped 4x4s. First stop was to check a drinking pond where Sandgrouses come to drink water early in the morning. Soon, we were enjoying good numbers of both Spotted & Crowned Sandgrouses. For the first time in years, Crowned Sandgrouses were outnumbering the Spotted ones. After enjoy the Sandgrouse spectacle and no majoy delay we moved to our next spot, this time to check a pair of Desert Sparrows nesting nearby. Unfortunately we have no luck with them so, taking advantage of this we decided to move deeper in the desert, where a nomad is waiting for us as he found a Egyptian Nightjar roosting in the desert. After a short walk we arrived where the Nightjar is and we all spent a few minutes watching this absolute treat, always at a safe distance.
Leaving this amazing spot, we went back to the Desert Sparrow territory, and this time we immediately got the eyes on the birds as they were hanging around very close to their nest. We actually saw one male and two females building the nest.
From here we have a bit of a drive as we are going now in search of the African Desert Warbler. After some walk in the dunes we got to see one, but not everybody in the group got to see the bird.. We were decided to be there longer, but a strong wind started to blow in and we decided to give up, so far. A pity, since the place was fulfilled with migratory birds (Common Redstarts, Booted Eagles, W Bonelli’s & W Subalpine Warblers, Woodchat Shrikes,..).
After lunch weather conditions kept degrading so we decided to call it a day and have some spare time in the afternoon, aiming to have better luck the next day.
Early in the morning we went for a stroll around the accommodation, a typical place for Fulvous Blabbler. Soon, we got to see one of them, providing really good looks. From here, we moved into a typical place for African Desert Warbler but we failed again. Anyway, this could be the best fail ever, since a Fennec just came out from nowhere, crossing in front of the car and letting us decent views! We could count ourselves lucky to see it, even without trying it!
Still shocked after the last desert jewel, we went for a last go on the Desert Warbler, trying to improve the views that we got the day before. Again, we failed to find the bird but our tenacity is rewarded by finding a nest of Greater Hoopoe Lark, built up in a tussock so they can watch out for predators.
Our way to the famous Cafe Yasmina (where the Catalan Bird Society has a ringing station) is a bit difficult, since the winter rains have made the are become a small lake. Taking advantage of these unusual conditions, tens of migratory birds are feeding around. Here we found the only flock of Collared Pratincoles for the trip, while Sedge Warblers are especially common in the tamarisk around, where they are joined by Western Olivaceous Warblers. En route we also have a few Cream-coloured Coursers and the first Seebohm’s Wheatears of the trip.
The last stop of the day is to have a second visit in the Merzouga lake. Beside the species that we saw in our previous visit, we added Little Stint, Dunlin, Common Redshank, Common Greenshank and Wood Sandpiper along with a rather unexpected Water Pipit. Close by, in a palm orchard, we got some passerines but also a mixed flock of European & Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters.
Torden lleonat (Argya fulva)Fennec (Vulpes zerda) a la carreraAfrican Desert Warbler (Curruca deserti).Alosa puput (Alaemon alaudipes).
Day 9
Transfer day with stops in our way to Ouarzazate. In our stops exploring different wadis (dry desert-like streams) we found a good variety of Wheatears but also Spectacled Warbler along with the commoner Western Subalpine Warbler. We also found a small nesting colony of Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters.
Before arriving to our accommodation in Ouarzazate we went for a visit into the Al-Mansour Barrage, a massive reservoir South of the city. Here we added Gull-billed Tern and Sand Martin to our list before the strong winds made us withdraw back to our accommodation.
Day 10
Last day of the trip. The birding starts early, as the birds join us while having breakfast. The gardens of the accommodation are hosting some Western Olivaceous Warblers, but also Hoopoes, Tree Pipits and Warblers while several Red-rumped Swallows are flying above us.
En route we made a stop in a stream. The weather was clearly better than in previous days, as the wind was totally stopped. And this spot was fulfilled with migratory passerines. Here we got 10+ birds of 7 species in a single tree: W Subalpines & W Orphean Warblers; Common Whitethroat; Willow & W Bonelli’s Warblers; Common Chiffchaffs and some very tame Iberian Chiffchaffs. The rank vegetation was having tens of Sedge & Common Reed Warblers moving around. Pied Flycatcher was a new species for the tour.
While crossing the Atlas mountains we nice views on Red-billed Choughs, and the last stop of the trip was to explore a conifer woodland. Here we got Coal Tit and Eurasian Sparrowhawk while Common Crossbills are heard calling around. As a final sight, a Eurasian Goshawk was seen displaying above the slopes!
This is the last stop of the trip before arriving to our accommodation back in Marrakech, ending a pretty nice tour despite the challenging weather conditions, with far less birds of prey than in previous editions but enjoying excellent numbers of migratory passerines, especially in those areas still having ponds from the generous winter rains.
List of bird species of the tour:
Ruddy Shelduck (Tadorna ferruginea)
Common Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna)
Blue-winged Teal (Spatula discors)
Northern Shoveler (Spatula clypeata)
Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)
Pintail (Anas acuta)
Eurasian Teal (Anas crecca)
Marbled Duck (Marmaronetta angustirostris)
Common Quail (Coturnix coturnix) — only heard
Barbary Partridge (Alectoris barbara)
Feral Pigeon (Columba livia)
Common Wood-pigeon (Columba palumbus)
European Turtle Dove (Streptopelia turtur)
Eurasian Collared Dove (Streptopelia decaocto)
Laughing Dove (Spilopelia senegalensis)
Spotted Sandgrouse (Pterocles senegallus)
Crowned Sandgrouse (Pterocles coronatus)
Red-necked Nightjar (Caprimulgus ruficollis) — heard only
Egyptian Nightjar (Caprimulgus aegyptius)
Alpine Swift (Tachymarptis melba)
Common Swift (Apus apus)
Pallid Swift (Apus pallidus)
Little Swift (Apus affinis)
Spotted Crake (Porzana porzana)
Eurasian Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus)
Eurasian Coot (Fulica atra)
Stone Curlew (Burhinus oedicnemus)
Black-winged Stilt (Himantopus himantopus)
Pied Avocet (Recurvirostra avosetta)
Grey Plover (Pluvialis squatarola)
Common Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula)
Little Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius)
Kentish Plover (Charadrius alexandrinus)
Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)
Bar-tailed Godwit (Limosa lapponica)
Black-tailed Godwit (Limosa limosa)
Common Snipe (Gallinago gallinago)
Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos)
Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus)
Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola)
Common Redshank (Tringa totanus)
Common Greenshank (Tringa nebularia)
Ruff (Calidris pugnax)
Curlew Sandpiper (Calidris ferruginea)
Sanderling (Calidris alba)
Dunlin (Calidris alpina)
Little Stint (Calidris minuta)
Cream-coloured Courser (Cursorior cursor)
Collared Pratincole (Glareola pratincola)
Arctic Skua (Stercorarius parasiticus)
Great Skua (Stercorarius skua)
Slender-billed Gull (Chroicocephalus genei)
Black-headed Gull (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
Yellow-legged Gull (Larus michahellis)
Lesser Black-backed Gull (Larus fuscus)
Gull-billed Tern (Gelochelidon nilotica)
Sandwich Tern (Thalasseus sandvicensis)
Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus roseus)
Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
Great Crested Grebe (Podiceps cristatus)
Black-necked Grebe (Podiceps nigricollis)
White Stork (Ciconia ciconia)
Atlantic Gannet (Morus bassanus)
Great Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo)
Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus)
Northern Bald Ibis (Geronticus eremita)
Eurasian Spoobill (Platalea leucorodia)
Little Egret (Egretta garzetta)
Squacco Heron (Ardeola ralloides)
Western Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis)
Great White Egret (Ardea alba)
Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea)
Osprey (Pandion haliaetos)
Black-winged Kite (Elanus caeruleus)
Short-toed Eagle (Circaetus gallicus)
Booted Eagle (Aquila pennata)
Bonelli’s Eagle (Aquila fasciata)
Eurasian Sparrowhawk (Accipiter nisus)
Eurasian Goshawk (Accipiter gentilis)
Western Marsh Harrier (Circus aeruginosus)
Montagu’s Harrier (Circus pygargus)
Black Kite (Milvus migrans)
Long-legged Buzzard (Buteo rufinus cirtensis)
Pharaon Eagle Owl (Bubo ascalaphus)
Little Owl (Athene noctua)
Hoopoe (Upupa epops)
Blue-cheecked Bee-eater (Merops persicus)
Eurasian Bee-eater (Merops apiaster)
Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major)
Levaillant’s Woodpecker (Picus vailantii)
Lesser Kestrel (Falco naumanii)
Eurasian Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus)
Lanner Falcon (Falco biarmicus)
Black-crowned Tchagra (Tchagra senegalus)
Great Grey Shrike (Lanius excubitor) — Algerian Shrike; Desert Grey Shrike
The tour started in the Pyrenees with the first morning hampered by snow, low cloud and mist at higher altitudes before clearing to much clearer and milder weather. The weather in the lowlands/plains was very kind with warmer conditions and only very light winds. The bad weather in the first day affected a bit the tour, with a couple of locations performing clearly below average, especially those involving boreal forests. The lack of snow in the top of the mountains during January and February meant no chances for us to connect with Snow Finches. In the steppes, Dupont’s Larks performed very well for us, and once we connected with the major targets in the plains we even had time for a couple of hours of birdwatching at Ebro Delta, a coastal heaven of birds that is normally out of bounds in this itinerary..
DAY 1.
After collecting all 6 tour participants from around the airport in Barcelona we headed through drizzly rain towards the Pyrenees. After 90 minutes of drive, we arrived to the area to explore, and we had a short coffee stop before attempting to drive a lane higher into the mountains through increasingly heavy snow. Around 1500m the road had become quite difficult, so we parked safely and explored the area.
Almost immediately the group found an Alpine Accentor sheltering and feeding on the screen by the roadside! Everyone enjoyed good views despite the weather, before it moved off further up the slope, here we also saw and heard our first European Crested Tits, Coal Tit, Firecrest, and Mistle Thrush of the trip along with several Red-billed Chough.
After a walk up the road a few hundred metres the weather began to improve, and as we headed back to the minibus the first of several Eurasian Griffon Vulture began to appear overhead. Whilst enjoying views of these one of the group (Jonny R) shouted out….. ”LAMMERGEIER!!” and an adult bird passed directly overhead giving great views as it glided down across the valley – what a start to the trip!
Alpine Accentor (Prunella collaris) feeding in the slope. Image by Carles Oliver.Full adult Lammergeier (Gypaetos barbatus). Image by Carles Oliver
After this excitement we decided to slowly head down the mountain, the weather continued to improve and before we had travelled far we had to stop – 2 Lammergeier were circling and showing well above us! An adult-type bird and a younger 3rd year type bird gave a superb show before drifting away. We then stopped around in the valley where the terraced fields and trees provided lots of birds including Rock Bunting, Hawfinch, Black Redstart, European Stonechat, European Serin, Meadow Pipit and some of the commoner Finches and Tits as well as an unexpected Cattle Egret – not something normally seen at this altitude! We could also hear Iberian Green Woodpecker calling here.
During our urban lunch stop and whilst there saw White-throated Dipper, Common Chiffchaff and Grey Wagtail on the stream through the village and a Common Buzzard passed overhead.
In the afternoon we drove another scenic lane up into the mountains where we enjoyed more fantastic views of 20+ Eurasian Griffons as well as 2 Golden Eagles, Red-billed Choughs and even Magpie which seemed out of place at this altitude. A small group of feeding birds included Fieldfare, Yellowhammer, Chaffinch and Goldfinch. This site also produced our first Pyrenean Chamois of the trip. We again descended into lower meadows and fields and walked a small hill that provided our first Iberian Grey Shrike as well as Eurasian Tree Sparrows, Crested Lark, Firecrests, Crested Tits, Black Redstarts, Yellowhammer, Goldcrest and Corn Buntings. Our last stop before reaching the accommodation for the evening produced lovely views of 8 Rock Sparrows on wires by the roadside – but the day was not finished there because our fabulous accommodation and host has a feeding station in the garden, and as the light faded we were treated to amazing views of up to 3 Beech Martins!! A quite amazing end to fantastic first day.
Hawfinch (Coccothraustes coccothraustes). Image by Justin Williams.Rock Bunting (Emberiza cia). Image by Carles Oliver.European Crested Tit (Lophophanes cristatus). Image by Jo Simon.Eurasian Griffon (Gyps fulvus). Image by Jo Simon.Beech Martin (Martes foina). Image by Stephen Davis.
Day 2.
In some ways a slightly frustrating day with numerous stops and effort failing to locate any Citril Finch, Black Woodpecker or White-winged Snowfinch, but this aside we enjoyed a fantastic variety of birds as we tried several areas including trips into France and then Andorra!
In the lower altitudes we came across a fantastic mixed flock of finch and other small birds including Common Crossbills, (c20) giving great views along the road, as well as Brambling, Siskin, Bullfinch, Short-toed Treecreeper, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Long-tailed Tit, Rock Bunting and Chaffinch, again we could hear Iberian Green Woodpecker calling but they remained invisible…..also in these areas Red Kites became more frequent. Here we also came across our only Red Squirrel of the trip.
In the high mountain passes we enjoyed yet more incredible views of Eurasian Griffons and Common Raven, and as we entered Andorra, our first stop around the town produced a decent number of Alpine Chough hanging about around the shops and houses.
As we had time left in the day, we retraced our steps and returned to summit the lane at Coll de Pal – we had to stop quite soon on the way up due to an adult Lammergeier showing incredibly well by the van!! This bird gave us our best views yet and even landed on the scree a few hundred yards away – a definite highlight of the whole trip!!
Onwards to the summit of the pass in bright sunshine, and we were rewarded at the top when we located a group of 4 Alpine Accentors feeding down to a few metres away, scuttling and shuffling in the snow and short turf – superb!
We then took the 90 min transfer to Lleida where we would be based for 2 nights.
Common Crossbill (Loxia curvirostra). Image by Jonathan Kennedy.Alpine Choughs (Pyrrhocora graculus) in Andorra. Image by Justin Williams.That afternoon we got impressive views on Lammergeier. Image by Carles Oliver.Lammergeier about to land for us. Image by Carles Oliver.Lammergeier on the ground. Image by Carles Oliver.Pyrenean Chamois (Rupicabra pyrenaica). Image by Justin Williams.Alpine Accentor (Prunella collaris). Image by Stephen Davis.
Day 3.
The day began with a short trip to our first site and roadside White Storks but even this was interrupted by one of the group skilfully spotting a Stone Curlew by the road!
We were shortly at our first stop, a spectacular dam and gorge with a river and mixed scrub, we quickly began adding birds such as Rock Sparrow, Blue Rock Thrush, Crag Martins (which breed in the tunnel), Blackcap, Kestrel, Song Thrush, Short-toed Treecreeper, Common Kingfisher, Cettis and Sardinian Warblers, Firecrest, Rock Buntings and several Eurasian Griffons. Around 2 hours had now passed and things were starting to get a bit tense…..and then WALLCREEPER!! A bird was located towards the dam and 3 of the group were in the right spot to see it straight away, whilst the rest hurried towards the bird, they found a second Wallcreeper! This bird gave everyone much better views for a few minutes, and everyone could relax, especially Carles!
As we left the gorge a short stop provided Cirl Buntings, 2 Peregrines, Hawfinch and a large flock of Corn Bunting, and as we stopped for coffee, Spotless Starlings.
Stone Curlew (Burhinus oedicnemus). Image by Stephen Davis.Wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria). Image by Justin Williams.Wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria). Image by Jonathan Kennedy.Wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria). Image by Justin Williams.Wallcreeper Argonauts! Image by Jo Symon.
We then moved on towards our next site with a couple of stops, the first providing many Cattle Egrets, White Storks and our first Great Egret, the second 2 Golden Eagles, Lapwing, Raven,Thekla Larks and a ringtail Hen Harrier as well as a roadside Little Owl.
We then stopped beside a spectacular roadside cliff face for our lunchtime picnic and immediately located our 3rdWallcreeper of the day!! Although a little more distant this bird gave good telescope views, but we were distracted from this by 2-3 Black Wheatears which were also showing well here along with a Blue Rock Thrush!
We were now into an area of plains and mixed arable land that is rapidly changing due to increased irrigation, but some areas still held many birds and we were quickly seeing Calandra Larks along with Thekla and Crested Larks and after walking a while we saw a distant Iberian Grey Shrike, Peregrine, and then located a single summer plumaged Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, a little distant, but again telescope views were good. As we left the site, we had excellent views of another Iberian Grey Shrike which really showed the difference between this and its northern counterpart.
We then called at a small roadside wetland and began adding a few species such as Coot Shoveler, Common Pochard, Common Snipe, Reed Bunting and Great Egret, as well as a rather unexpected, and slightly questionable, African Sacred Ibis! This bird has been in the area a while, and presumably originates from a ‘feral’ population in nearby France, Italy or Germany… Either way it made at least one of the group very happy!
Our last stop was to close by, and before we had even parked the van our main target was located – a male Eagle Owl! Perched in the ruins of an huge ancient building, this guy sat and watched us as we quietly watched him before starting to sing….amazing!
Whilst Serins and Sardinian Warblers twittered and scratched nearby, the Eagle Owl sat watch, his deep hoot echoing occasionally, until he finally flew low across to a nearby rock face….what an end to a truly fantastic days birding!!
Little Owl (Athene noctua) on its roof. Image by Justing Williams.Spotless Starling (Sturnus unicolor). Image by Justin Williams.Pin-tailed Sandgrouse (Pterocles alchata) male. Image by Carles Oliver.Iberian Grey Shrike (Lanius meridionalis) posed nicely for the group. Image by Carles Oliver.African Sacred Ibis (Therskiornis aethiopicus) moving along with Western Cattle Egrets. Image by Carles Oliver.Eurasian Eagle Owl (Bubo bubo) watching us. Image by Carles Oliver.
Day 4.
The day began with a short transfer after breakfast, interrupted by a large flock of migrating Common Cranes. These birds had presumably roosted nearby in the large open arable fields and were continuing their northward journey. We then entered an area of mixed arable/farmed/wild fields with big skies and tremendous views, misty fog didn’t help our search, but we quite quickly located 5 Great Bustards, all males, slowly wandering across their chosen field. Views were not brilliant, but very atmospheric! Here we were surrounded by Calandra Larks, Corn Buntings and our first Lesser Short-toed Larks as well as a Zitting Cisticola, Stonechats and Sardinian Warbler.
We then took a short coffee stop as the mist cleared and visited a small wetland with more Larks and many Linnets, Corn Buntings and Chaffinch before having second, clearer but distant views of the Great Bustards. With this under our belts we collected lunch and moved on.
We soon arrived at Lomaza (only briefly distracted by a large flock of migrating White Storks) and began to look at various larks…. A lot! A landscape of low spiky grass, thistle and huge skies stretched all around us. Quickly we were seeing many Calandra, Thekla and Lesser Short-toed (or ‘Mediterranean’) Larks, with their songs all around us, including much mimicry from the Calandra – quite a soundscape!
After c45mins, suddenly, the song we were searching for, and quickly some views of our quarry…DUPONT’S LARK! At least 2 birds, a pair, were making short, darting runs between bits of spiky tussocks grass until, amazingly, the male climbed a short way into a tussock and sat in full view singing…..a fantastic bit of good fortune and handshakes all round!
With the pressure off we all enjoyed the experience and incredible scenery of this beautiful, wild landscape.
The weather was warm now, and we stopped near Belchite to admire some ruins complete with Crag Martins, Serins and Black Redstart before moving onto a high plateau.
Slowly driving and scanning the fields we came across an unexpected flock of Dotterel, with around 25-30 birds present and showing well, whilst above a Golden eagle soared past. Again we were seeing lots of Calandra Lark with birds still in large winter flocks, Stonechats by the road, Red-legged Partridge, 2 Red Fox, but no sandgrouse….much scanning and scoping eventually led to one of the group picking out a small flock in the far distance, we drove nearer and saw up to 16 Black-Bellied Sandgrouse, good scope views of the birds moving about their chosen field as well as in flight when they are really impressive, a fantastic end to another brilliant day!
Great Bustards (Otis tarda) in dense fog. Image by Carles Oliver.Dupont’s Lark (Chersophilus duponti): shaking wings as preparing to leave its resting site (up), male singing from to top of a tussock (below). Image by Carles Oliver.Eurasian Dotterel (Charadrius morinellus), one of 25+ birds resting in a plugged field. Image by Justin Williams.European Serin (Serinus serinus) female in a short stop around Belchite. Image by Carles Oliver.Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), one of many seen during the trip. Image by Carles OliverCorn Bunting (Emberiza calandra) acting like being spring. The area around Lleida has the largest density in Europe. Image by Carles Oliver.
Day 5.
We awoke to fairly torrential constant rain, and with the forecast not looking good we made the decision to change our plans and head for the Ebro Delta.
This journey was briefly interrupted with a stop when we spotted 4 Spanish Ibex on a high hill beside the road. Once we arrived at the Ebro we rapidly began adding birds to the trip list, the total change in habitat was exciting and we added many species during the morning including exciting birds such as Moustached Warbler which showed quite well a few times, Penduline Tit, Western Swamphen, Bluethroat, Greater Flamingo, Glossy Ibis, Slender-billed Gull, Caspian Tern, Black-necked Grebe, Red-crested Pochard, and Osprey as well a variety of waders and other wetland birds.
Too soon we had to leave and head for Barcelona, and the airport, but still we made time for 2 quick stops – the first giving us great views of Iberian Green Woodpecker (finally!) and Monk Parakeets. The second stop was at the beach right by the airport where we had fantastic views of AudouinsGull and also passing Atlantic Gannets and Sandwich Terns….a fitting end to a really enjoyable trip with a great group!
Western Swamphen (Porphyrio porphyrio) under the rain. Image by Carles Oliver.Penduline Tit (Remiz pendulinus) showed well under the rain. Image by Carles Oliver.Bluethroat (Luscinia svecica) in the path for us. Image by Carles Oliver.Iberian Green Woodpeckers (Picus sharpei). Image by Jo Symon.Another shot on Iberian Green Woodpecker. Image by Justin Williams. Our group almost complete. Image by Daf Edwards.
Resum: Hongria presenta una combinació entre increïbles boscos, zones d’aiguamoll i grans planures de secà, anomenades putsza. Aquest país és un dels pocs llocs on pots veure tots els picots d’Europa, excepte el tridàctil, alhora que bones poblacions de piocs salvatges amb un bon assortit de rapinyaires.
Dia 1
Fent escala a Viena, arribem al petit aeroport de Budapest al migdia amb temps per poder fer una primera visita a les zones de putsza al Sud de la capital.
Tot just trepitjar les primeres planúries no ens és gens difícil, als marges dels camins, veure un bon nombre d’escorxadors i trenques. Els primers encara alimentant pollets volanders.
Estols d’oques comunes comencen a desplaçar-se a les zones de joca al igual que grans grups de cornelles emmantellades barrejades amb graules.
En aquesta zona son freqüents els grups familiars de gaig blau. No tardem gaire en veure el majestuós vol de l’au més pesada amb capacitat per poder volar; el pioc salvatge, i tot voltant per la zona veiem altres grups que com per art de màgia desapareixen de l’horitzó de forma miraculosa. Entre les escenes màgiques que restaran a la nostra memòria està la del vol d’un nombrós grup de piocs sobre la nostra posició amb el seu majestuós vol.
D’aquí ens desplacem al nostre allotjament per acabar aquesta llarga jornada degustant les primeres viandes de la famosa cuina hongaresa.
Trenca (Lanius minor), espècie molt comú a les estepes hongareses. Lesser Grey Shrike.Escorxador (Lanius collurio), una espècie encara més comú que l’anterior. Red-backed Shrike.Pioc salvatge (Otis tarda) en vol al vespre. Great Bustard.
Dia 2
Acompanyats de bons amics hongaresos visitem la famosa reserva de putsza al Sud de la capital. Una vegada près el cafè recuperador fem un tomb pel poble a la cerca del picot garser siriac, ocell que sovint es veu en zones humanitzades. No triguem a detectar les veus d’aquest ocell i finalment una parella es deixa veure al voltant d’una zona enjardinada. La migració dels petits ocells ja és present, com a confirma la visualització en el mateix jardí d’un mosquiter xiulaire i les veus de diversos tallarols xerraires.
Travessem zones obertes tot esperant que l’augment de la temperatura activi als gran rapinyaires. Repetim forces espècies vistes el dia anterior, amb les primeres observacions de llunyanes d’àguiles imperials orientals. Finalment es fan tèrmiques on s’agrupen diverses àguiles imperials i les primeres majestuoses àguiles marines.
Sobrevolen els espais pasturats pels búfals alliberats dins el marc dels projectes de gestió d’hàbitats per les espècies estepàries, cigonyes blanques i negres. Ens dirigim ara a un racó diferent, a on fem espera d’un dels gran targets del viatge, el falcó sacre. Tot veient una de les seves preses favorites, els suslic, esperem fins que un exemplar de falcó apareix tot lluitant amb un dels omnipresents xoriguers comuns. Posteriorment, un altre exemplar en del·laïta amb vols de cacera a més curta distància.
Una vegada assolits els principals objectius de la regió, visitem alguna de les grans zones humides bàsicament emprades com a piscifactories de peix d’aigua dolça, sobretot carpa i peix gat. Aquí hi trobem un bon ventall d’aus aquàtiques alhora que els primers corbs marins pigmeus del viatge i morell xocolaters, alguns encara en grups familiars. Dos exemplars de les escasses perdius de mar en aquesta zona es llueixen davant nostre i alhora que tafaners joves de mallerengues de bigotis es deixen veure en els canyissars que envolten les basses.
Arribat al migdia visitem un restaurant especialitzat en cuina local, una gran cloenda per un agran jornada.
Posteriorment marxem cap el nord-est ja que ens espera un llarg trànsfert on van sortint noves espècies pel tour com un grapat de falcons cama-rojos.
Cigonyes blanca i negra (dreta) sobrevolant les estepes hongareses. White and Black Storks.Àguila marina (Hieraaetus albicilla). White-tailed Eagle Falcó sagrat (Falco cherrug), un dels rapinyaires més amenaçats a Europa. Saker Falcon.Àguila imperial oriental (Aquila heliaca). Eastern Imperial Eagle
Avui l’objectiu és visitar el mític conjunt de zones humides i putsza de la regió d’Hortobagy. Un organitzat sistema de piscifactories de peix d’aigua dolça permet visitar caminant diverses basses amb diferents cobertures de canyissar on per exemple són abundants un seguit de passeriformes de canyissar com els boscarlers comuns, les boscarles de canyar o les mallerengues de bigotis. En aquestes dates les zones més somes estan pràcticament seques però allà on resta una mica d’aigua, es concentren un bon nombre d’ardèids, bec-planers i limícoles. Des d’una de les torres d’observació es veu l’increïble paisatge que genera una gran zona humida envaïda per florits nenúfars grocs. Entre ells s’amaguen morells xocolaters, cabussons i centenars de corb marins pigmeus.
Després d’un excel·lent dinar en un clàssic restaurant d’Hortobagy, visitem zones inundades on centenars d’oques es concentraven en les pastures properes. En una d’ells, entre grups de fumarells carablancs, vam poder trobar alguns fumarells alablancs.
Decidim acabar la jornada visitant zones d’estepes on gaudim d’una espectacular tarda amb grups familiars de gaig blau, falcons cama-rojos, piocs salvatges, trenques i escorxadors alhora que rapinyaires com àguila imperial oriental o arpella cendrosa.
Corb marí pigmeu (Micracarbo pygameus), una espècie habitual a Hongria. Pygmy Cormorant.Picot verd europeu (Picus viridis) jove. European Green WoodpeckerFemella (esq) i mascle (dreta) de falcó cama-roig (Falco vespertinus). Red-footed Falcon
Dia 4
Avui l’objectiu serà visitar els majestuosos boscos caduficolis per intentar sumar un bon nombre de picots i altres ocells forestals
Comencem a la cerca d’una de les espècies que interessen al tour: les mallerengues capnegres. Un cop ens endinsem en zones de coníferes no triguem en detectar, dins de grans grups mixtes (reietons, mallerengues, raspinell pirinenc..), els primers exemplars d’aquesta espècie.
Un excitat picot negre eurosiberià ens acomiada de la zona. D’aquí conduim fins a un altre bosc a la cerca del més localitzat dels picots, el picot garser dorsblanc.
Als pocs minuts s’escolta el típic reclam del picot cendrós, finalment deixant-se veure després d’una breu disputa amb un picot verd europeu. Sembla que li agrada recuperar energia al sol, ja que resta immòbil una bona estona a la capçada d’un arbre per fortuna per nosaltres.
Arbres madurs fan que el picoteig de picot sigui constant i ens fa amena l’espera fins que surti l’estrella del dia. Picots garsers mitjans, grossos i petits són abundants alhora que grups mixtes de passeriformes on apareixen grups nombrosos de mallerengues cuallargues de les races de cap blanc, un ocell d’aspecte tant delicat com espectacular. Finalment dues no massa llunyanes parelles de picot garser dorsblanc es van deixar veure i escoltar a plaer.
En una breu passejada pel mateix bosc, 8 espècies de picots! no està gens malament.
Visitem zones obertes a la cerca de petits migrants on a més de durbecs, cotxes fumades….apareix un inquieta busqueta icterina.
Dinem a peu de rierol on ens visita una família de cueretes torrenteres i al refugi d’una bona ombra.
Posteriorment visitem un espai obert, un mosaic de pastures, camps i fruiters. Els arbres i arbustos estaven plens de fruites i baies fet que atreia petits migrants, especialment tallarols de casquet, xerraires, verderoles… Vista fugaç i veus de tallarol esparverenc, el qual no es deixa veure de forma òptima. Escanejant el cel va sorprendre una fase pàl·lida d’àguila calçada, espècie rara en aquesta àrea.
Afortunadament a hores d’ara ja hem assolit els principals objectius del tour, per tant, el que fem és intentar millorar observacions d’algunes de les espècies i/o fotografiar-les.
Comencem visitant zones periurbanes a la cerca de picot garser siríac i sobretot picot verd europeu, dels quals no tardem en detectar, especialment el picot verd dels quals un jove s’acaba aturant a un pal de formigó donant observacions a plaer. Aquest mosaic d’hàbitats fa que siguin abundants els fringíl·lids i migrants com el tallarol gros.
Una vegada comencen a pujar les temperatures ens desplacem cap als sectors on nidifiquen les àguiles pomerànies, el darrer dels targets que ens quedava per assolir. Als pocs minuts es deixa veure un exemplar que veiem aturar a una vall arbrada. Posteriorment es veuen altres vegades fins dos exemplars. La zona sembla bona per rapinyaires ja que també es deixen veure aligots vespers i altres aus planejadores.
Amb les temperatures de mig matí decidim visitar zones boscoses on segur que es manté més activitat que en zones obertes. Una passejada per un madur bosc caducifoli ens permet gaudir de bones observacions de varis picots garsers mitjans, grossos,petits i grups mixtes de mallerengues.
Nou dinar en restaurants de cuina típica hongaresa per tancar una altre gran matí ornitològic.
Decidim visitar zones boscoses amb arbres grans per cercar el picot negre, el pícid que pitjor havíem observat en aquest viatge. Vàrem escollir bé el lloc de prospecció perquè en pocs minuts ja escoltàvem un picot a curta distancia, el qual ens va acompanyar una bona estona fent volades ràpides a curs distància, mostrant la gran habilitat que tenen per aturar-se a la banda “equivocada dels arbres”.
Una bones copes de casolana palinka per tancar el darrer sopar del viatge.
Picot garser mitjà (Dendrocopos medius). Middle Spotted Woodpecker.
Dia 6
Aquest matí només disposem d’un parell d’hores de birding abans de desplaçar-nos cap a l’aeroport. Per això decidim de fer un tomb tot resseguint un torrent a tocar de l’hospedatge per tal de mirar algun picot més.
Cercant entre els grans arbres veiem un bon ventall d’espècies forestals, entre elles diversos grups mixten a on destaquen mallerengues cuallargues de cap blanc i 4 espècies de pícids destacant uns quants picots verds europeus; a les zones obertes veiem cotxes fumades i papamosques grisos, però sobretot destaca el nombre de mosquiters xiulaires que veiem en aquesta passejada.
Un relaxat i gran final per un extraordinari tour a un país molt recomanable per viatjar per qualsevol ornitòleg.
Llista d’aus observades al llarg del tour:
Faisà — Phaisanus colchinus — Common Pheasant
Cigne mut — Cygnus olor — Mute Swan
Oca comuna — Anser anser — Greylag Goose
Ànec griset — Marecca strepera — Gadwall
Xarxet comú — Anas crecca — Eurasian Teal
Ànec coll-verd — Anas platyrhynchos — Mallard
Xarrasclet — Spatula querquedula — Garganey
Xibec — Netta rufina — Red-crested Pochard
Morell de cap roig — Aythya ferina — Common Pochard
Tour leader: Carles Oliver (Barcelona to Lisbon) & Sergi Sales (Sofia to Cyprus)
All images by Carles Oliver. All rights reserved.
Overview: Our very first Southern Europe Odyssey has been a very funny and brave adventure. Visiting 5 European countries and 9 islands (3 in the Mediterranean; 6 in the Atlantic Ocean), we have enjoyed a very long list of European and Macaronesian endemics and specialities. The tour has been divided in different sections so our guests could join the part they were most interested about. Very looking forward to go on again with this crazy adventure!
Day 1. From Barcelona to Picos de Europa. Our Odyssey through South Europe, an ambitious program visiting 5 countries and 9 islands started in a very epic way; a 3:00am pick up to try to catch up with some nocturnal birds. Very close from the Barcelona airport we had a first stop. It is a small area of farming with some lines of trees, some of them with several holes. Here we started looking for European Scops Owl. It was clearly colder than expected. During the previous weeks we had low temperatures clearly below average in Catalonia, with strong snow falls up in the Pyrenees. That morning, the temperatura drop to only 7ºC!
Along the next half an hour we tried to have any view on the Scops Owls living in the area, but little success. We heard them as we heard Little Owl and Western Barn Owl but we no success to see any of them. But the situation turned on when a close a Scops Owl suddenly came to us from the inside the canopies and landed only by the path, 150 centimetres high! We all had excellent views on the bird and a couple of shots before the bird came back deep inside the vegetation. Still excited about such good looks, we heard a second bird calling down the path,, very low in the trees and only a few meters away from us. A few second after that we got the bird singing in the torch, allowing not only really good views but also a number of shots! Very happy for this success we drove up the valley to try a second bird. By the time we arrived the raising was in the sky, and the first Nightingales were singing. It was still cold and a bit early in the season so I was not very sure that the whole thing could work. But it did, and at the second attempt a very nice Red-necked Nightjar emerged from the shadows and flew directly above the group to show the large white markings in the tail and a wings, and the lovely orangish coloration in the underwing coverts. The bird was singing, probably right arrived from Africa and busy to mark its territory!
Eurasian Scops Owl (Otus scops) was a major target for many in the group, and we enjoyed great views next to Barcelona. Image by tour leader Carles Oliver.
Very happy with this excellent sight, we drove West, living behind Barcelona, that was only about to wake up in another busy day. It was about 6:30 when we stop in a quiet service station to have some breakfast. A selection of coffees, orange juices and potato omelette was served and we had some time for relax after the early start. Here the group had also the chance to meet Sergi Sales, the leader for the Eastern part of the Odyssey as he was on his way to lead a day trip out of Barcelona with a birder from Japan.
From here we kept going West for about 30 miles, and our first birding stop with daylight was devoted to a lovely patch of traditional farming. Here, the Catalan Government is taking efforts to manage the habitat and preserve some spots for the very endangered Little Bustard. At the first stop of the van, we got excellent scope views on a displaying Little Bustard, and during the next 90 minutes we had 6 different males chasing each other or simply singing from their lekking positions. A Montagu’s Harrier female was also one of the first birds for us, but even before that we got a distant male Red-footed Falcon sitting down on some dead branches. Certainly a very good start for the trip! Several Calandra Larks and Corn Buntings were seen, as White Storks, Stock Dove and Western Jackdaws were. We kept moving through this great habitat, adding good looks on specialities like Stone Curlew and Iberian Grey Shrikes but also migratory birds including Northern Wheatear and the always very nice looking Whinchats. Common Kestrels, Marsh Harriers, Red Kites and Black Kites were all seen, and we also had time for a short visit to a nesting colony of Lesser Kestrels, where we had some nice scope views on the birds. But probably one of the best birds on this location was the nice pair of Great Spotted Cuckoos chasing each other quite high in the sky! A quite unexpected view. Here, we also got the first Short-toed Eagle for the trip.
We could stay there longer, but we were committed with some extra specialties along our long way to Picos de Europa. Our next movement was to visit another area inside the Catalan dry lands. Here we got nice views on both Black Wheatears & Black-eared Wheatears plus Spotless Starling, Thekla Lark and some lovely views on European Turtle Doves. The area was also rich on Finches and Greenfinch, Serin and European Goldfinch were all seen before we stoped by a puddle. Here another singing Common Nightingale was waiting for us, and we got nice views on the first Sardinian Warblers of the trip along with migratory Pied & Spotted Flycatchers. Again, European Turtle Doves were present in the area, joined this time by European Bee-eaters and Griffons flying over our heads. In the water, only a Eurasian Moorhen was seen.
Little Bustard (Tetrax tetrax) landing on its lek spot in the Catalan steppes.Little Bustard (Tetrax tetrax), a species which dramatically decreasing in Western Europe. That morning we were very lucky to have close views on Stone Curlews (Burhinus oedicnemus).One of the two Great Spotted Cuckoos (Clamator glandarius) that flew over us.Iberian Grey Shrike (Lanius meridionalis).Black Wheatear (Oenanthe leucura) showed distant but very well in our stop at Mas de Melons NR.
From here we had some solid drive West, with some comfort stops in the way. Our next birding stop didn’t come until mid afternoon, in the border between The Basque Country and Castille. Here we spent some time in a riverside forest. It was slightly windy and the bird activity was light. Some Greenfinches were feeding in the area along with Eurasian Blackcap. But a short walk around the area fastly put us in contact with our main target here. One Iberian Chiffchaff was singing low in the riparian vegetation and a few moments later we were all enjoying wonderful views on the bird! During about 5 minutes, the bird was singing around us and flickering the winds, showing way better we were expecting. Along the next 20 minutes we saw at least 4 Iberian Chiffchaffs and also got really good looks on Cetti’s Warbler, Eurasian Wren, Eurasian Goldfinches, Great Tits and a family of Short-toed Treecreepers moving in the thick trunks along the Ebro River. Along the banks of the river, a Common Sandpiper completed the list for the place.
From here, we still had to cover one hour of drive to our final destination at the heart of Picos de Europa.
Iberian Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus ibericus), one of the most sought-after species for some of the tour participants!
Day 2. From Picos de Europa to Belchite. After enjoying a great breakfast we drove into the mountains. It looked like a quiet morning, and the towering landscape allowed us to connect with some Griffon Vultures in our way to Fuente Dé cable car. We arrived earlier than expected, and we gather at the access queue. A powerful brise started to blow, and our concerns about the cable car being open that morning started to arise. In the queue we picked up Coal Tit, Goldcrest, Eurasian Nuthatches, Common Chaffinch (the first Chaffinch species of the many to come in this Odyssey) and Black Redstart, all of them new for the trip. The minutes went out, the queue grew at the same rhythm that our concerns did, and our worst thought came truth when the staff attending the cable car confirmed that the cable car was not to be open that day. A last minute change in the weather broadcast made the conditions unsuitable for the cable car to run in a safe way. Devastated by the news, we had a couple of strolls around, hoping to connect with some good birds. It was certainly still a slim chance for cable car to open, so we decided to invest a couple of hours wandering around. Along this time we got nice views on Firecrest, Song Thrush, European Crested Tit, Dunnock, Eurasian Treecreeper, Blue & Great Tits, Linnets, European Stonechats and lovely views in some Rock Buntings. Both Alpine & Red-billed Choughs were seen, even if the first were far up in the sky. A low Egyptian Vulture was one of the final sightings. At the end, the day turned into a grey, windy one. Back to the van, we started driving back Est, expecting to arrive to our next accommodation at the Ebro Valley about sunset.
In the way, several White Storks we had a number of birding stops. Along the rivers, we got ruff views on a speedy Common Kingfisher, but also on the first Long-tailed Tits and Grey Wagtails of the trip. Several Griffons were seen here as well. Back to the road, we crossed a large area of altitudinal plateaus covered with low scrublands. A wonderful habitat for a number of species, and a couple of stops in our way allowed us to connect with a Woodlark singing from a wire, but also with a massive flock of Common Rock Sparrows A bit beyond, another stops was mandatory to enjoy a Golden Eagle passing really close of the van. The bird, a full adult, was circling above the road. Once with the foot on the ground, we found close Cirl Bunting, Western Yellow Wagtail in the fields around and Sonja got a nice Common Cuckoo landing into a large tree right in front of us! The rest of transfer was a bit more quiet, and only a couple of Short-toed Eagles and a hunting Montagu’s Harriers deserve our attention.
But before going to the accommodation we still had a very short stop around the village, and we were lucky enough to find a lovely Little Owl sitting on the top a pile of rocks. The Owl offered really good looks and some photo opportunities despite the poor light, and this final stop was complemented with the very last bird of the day, a nice European Nightjar that was flying around!
European Crested Tit (Lophophanes cristatus), one of the most celebrated birds in our morning at Picos de Europa. Common Rock Sparrow (Petronia petronia). We enjoyed large flocks between Picos & Los Monegros. Short-toed Eagle (Circaetus gallicus) feeding on a Montpellier Snake (Malpolon monspessulanus).
Day 3. Ebro Valley to Ebro Delta. Just arrived to the habitat, we heard a singing Dupont’s Lark not far away from us. Mediterranean Short-toed Larks were very active, but our attention was concentrated in Dupont’s, a scarce and often difficult to see bird. After a fast scanning, I found the bird singing from a tiny tussock, and I tried to put directions so everybody could enjoy. Unfortunately the bird came down to the ground and started running, and most of the tour participants only got partial views on the bird moving around. The Dupont’s vanished in the vegetation and we decided to wait and see if it was reappearing, but after 10 minutes 3 Pint-tailed Sandgrouses crossed the road, flying into a nearby pond. We immediately took our change and approach the pond, trying to get better views on the birds. We could not find them, but then 2 Black-bellied Sandgrouses flew over, provided good looks. Dupont’s Larks were still singing around, but we were still unable to find anything beyond 2 Thekla’s Larks having a bad argument in the steppes. And then Keith appeared and said the magic words: “I found a roosting Nightjar”. We inmediatly moved to into the bushes. He flushed the bird, that got deep inside the bushland. We had to move carefully to don’t disturbed again. Only a few minutes later we got the bird again, an European Nightjar, roosting really deep inside a bush. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, all clients got to see the bird! But just at the moment to take some shots, the bird flew out, stopping not far. We tried a second a approach, and this time we got nice flight views before it got really deep inside a large bush!
Just back to the van, we decided to try a different strategy to get Dupont’s Lark. We drove through some good habitat, and only 2 minutes later Keith spoiled us again by finding a wonderful Dupont’s Lark walking just beside the vehicle. The bird was only 10 meters away, and all tour participants had good views on the bird as it was moving and feeding among to tussocks of vegetation.
A last stop before leaving this hotspot produced good views in the only Western Orphean Warbler of the trip. Here we also enjoyed European Turtle Dove, migratory Willow Warbler, Woodchat Shrike and fly over Booted Eagle.
Mediterranean Short-toed Lark (Alaudala rufescens) in typical habitat. Dupont’s Lark (Chersophilus duponti) showed really and in different views, despite the rather distant images. European Turtle Dove (Streptopelia turtur) is nesting in good numbers in the grasslands.
It was a sunny day, and in our transfer to Ebro Delta we had a nice lunch stop in one of the many gorges in the area. Here we got lucky again and the whole group enjoyed great views on Western Bonelli’s Warblers but also Peregrine Falcon, Red-rumped Swallows and distant but showy Blue Rock Thrush.
We arrived to Ebro Delta, following the channels and paddyfields covered by hundreds of Glossy Ibises, Whiskered Terns and Herons the many species including Squacco Herons and Purple Herons. A first stop was done in a typical spot for migratory passerines and we got excellent views not only in Willow Warblers but also in 4 Pied Flycatchers, Garden Warbler, Spotted Flycatcher, 1 Melodious Warbler (the only Melodious for the Odyssey), 7+ Eurasian Golden Orioles, Woodchat Shrike, Common Chiffchaff, 3 Common Whitethroats and 1 Common Redstarts. Happy with such array of birds we move to a second spot. Always surrounded by Stilts and Marsh Harriers in our way, we did arrive to a El Violí area, a nice marsh surrounded by lagoons. A relaxed walk around provided a massive list including goodies such as Pied Avocet, 4 Red-crested Pochards, Western Swamphens, Purple Herons, 4 Collared Pratincoles, Penduline Tit, Eurasian Spoonbills, Spotted Redshanks, Great Reed Warblers, good views on 3+ Little Bitterns and migratory Whinchats.
And with the evening shading we just drove the short distance to our accommodation.
Our transfer to Ebro Delta crossed some of the best areas for raptors in Catalonia. Here a gorgeous Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos) seen from a highway. Winchats (Saxicola rubetra) are migratory birds along the Catalan coast. Here a wonderful male! Great Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus arundinaceus) singing his heart out in the reedbeds at Ebro Delta.
Day 4. Ebro Delta – Mallorca. After enjoying a nice breakfast we move to our first stop. It was another sunny day and we went to check the largest lagoon in Ebro Delta. Here, along with the several Common & Whiskered Terns, Swamphens and Audouin’s Gulls we also got really nice views on Caspian Terns and, more importantly, some summer plomaged Mediterranean Gulls that were displaying in an island. This was an important target for some of our guests, and it was really celebrated, especially when some Med Gull decided to come right above us, providing wonderful views to everyone in the group. The stop also provided good scope views on Savi’s Warbler, a scarce nesting bird at Ebro Delta and, more surprisingly, we also got good scope views on 2 Common Reed Buntings. The Reed Buntings nesting here belong to the extremely endangered witherbyi race that has only a few tens of nesting pairs left in Catalonia! Very happy for this very good array of birds, we move North for a last stop in this amazing wetland before heading back to Barcelona.
The last stop was as good as the first one and here, in a swallow water inner bay we got very nice views on 20+ summer plumaged Red Knots joined by 4 drake Curlew Sandpipers! Along with them, Bar-tailed Godwits in summer colours, Eurasian Curlew, Kentish Plover, Eurasian Oystercatcher (the only one for the Odyssey!) and 1 Osprey.
We drove back to Barcelona to take the plane connecting us with Mallorca, but it was still time for a final before leaving Catalonia.. Very close to the airport, we visited a place for the endemic Iberian Green Woodpecker. It didn’t even take us a minute to connect with the bird! Amazingly, one of this woodpeckers just flew parallel to the van for some meters, stopping close to the van and allowing us time to get out of the minivan and connect with it in a very pleasant way. In addition, we also got 2 Hooded Crows, a substantial part of the tiny population recently established around the Catalan capital city. It was too easy! So, we still had time. I asked the people if was fancy to try for Dartford Warbler nearby. No was not an option, and everybody agreed. Ten minutes later we were on place and, guess what, a pair of Dartfords just flew around us to provide some views.. Everybody was happy so now, yes, was time to take a plane and deep into the Mediterranean!
Arrived to Mallorca in the early afternoon, we collected our minibus and drove directly East expecting some goo evening light. That evening, the island was covered with a sheet of light clouds, creating the perfect conditions for some sea watching. We wouldn’t be disappointed and within the next 45 minutes we enjoyed of tens and tens of Scopoli’s Shearwaters passing by our cape, some of them at close range. Along with them, small clocks of Balearic Shearwaters were also in the move to their nesting grounds at Cabrera island. In addition, here we also got the only Northern Gannet of the whole Odyssey and, more importantly 2 Shags, another target species for some of our guests!
Eurasian Penduline Tit (Remiz pendulinus) keeps expanding at Ebro Delta. Mediterranean Gull (Ichthyaetos melanocephala) was really celebrated by some tour participants.Red Knots (Calidris canutus), Curlew Sandpipers (Calidris ferruginea) & Black-bellied Plovers (Pluvialis squatarola) in nice summer colours. Slender-billed Gulls (Larus genei) right in time before we transferred back to Barcelona.
Day 5. Mallorca. Before breakfast we had a short walk exploring the cliffs South from our accommodation. No migrants were found, but we got nice views on a singing Blue Rock Thrush, 2 Pallid Swifts, several Mediterranean Flycatchers and a nice family of Hoopoes. Out in the sea we had distant views on both Scopoli’s & Balearic Shearwaters + a couple of (Mediterranean) Shags. After we enjoyed our delicious breakfast, we went off to meet Jason, our local guide during our full day in the island. Jason is British but his roots in Mallorca are already deep, and this includes his great skills when speaking Catalan in the delicious Mallorcan variation!
It was a very sunny morning and our first movement was to go on with a short walk through some coastal scrubland. Here, it didn’t take long before we contacted with 2 nice Balearic Warblers, and the group enjoyed nice views on this endemic while was moving in an out a bush. Sometimes it came to the top of the bush to sing, but we often had to fight to have proper views on it.
Crossing the island, we headed to Serra de Tramuntana and in the way we caught a migratory Montagu’s Harrier flying very low over the fields. Here, the impressive rocky slopes are home to a good number of specialities. The first to appear were 2 Cinereous Vultures along with 5 Griffon Vultures. Back on the ground, we got nice views on a Tawny Pipit and several Mediterranean Flycatchers. We still had to walk a bit more to see the first Moltoni’s Warbler of the trip, but at the end it provided great views along with 2 other individuals. Back to the van, we still had 3 Common Crossbills passing over us. It was already midday when we left the hills, going this time to the Northern part of the island to explore its main wetland. By the time we arrived to S’Albufera the weather was already cloudy and allowed us to walk inside in a fresh ambient that is uncommon for the season. Some Gull-billed Terns welcomed us to the marshes, and as we walked inside we had time to enjoy the wonderful mixed colony of Squacco Herons, Glossy Ibises, Little Egrets and Night Herons with many birds showing out their best colours! From the hides, we got really good views on Red-knobbed Coots but also 3 Marbled Teals and the firsts Little Ringed Plover and Common Snipe of the tour. Once out, we got excellent views on a family of Red-knobbed Coots feeding their chicks in the path itself only a few yards from us!
To end the day, we had a stop in some farming area. Here we got really good views on Thekla’s Larks but also (Balearic) Woodchat Shrikes and Red-legged Partridges before going back to our accommodation for a well deserved rest.
Mediterranean Flycatcher (Muscicapa tyrrhenica) just by our accommodation. Balearic Warbler (Curruca balerica) fighting to not get in the image!Moltoni’s Warbler (Curruca subalpina) on its typical Mediterranean habitat.Marbled Teal (Marmaronetta angustirostris), Red-knobbed Coot (Fulica cristata) & Common Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna) at S’Albufera.We got lucky and enjoyed some very tender sights on Red-knobbed Coots (Fulica cristata)
Day 6. Mallorca – Tenerife. After enjoying a very nice breakfast, we drove back to Palma, but with a stopover at Salobrar de Campos. Again, we got really few migrants, but excellent views on Kentish Plovers, Black-winged Stilts, Pied Avocets, Greater Flamingoes and a couple of obliging Western Yellow Wagtails.
We landed in Tenerife in the early afternoon and 10′ behind schedule, but we collected the van very quick. At Tenerife Airport, a new Odysseer joined the expedition, and we all left the airport with more energy than ever, heading to the pine woods mid way up to the Teide volcano, the tallest mountain in the Canary Islands.
We had time for a good afternoon stop so we drove up into the slopes of the magnificent Teide (a large volcano that is the highest mountain in the Canary Island). In the way up, we had a pair of Berthelot’s Pipits that showed superbly for the group. But the main stop was in a mature Canary Island Pine forest, where we immediately connected with a nice flock of Atlantic Canaries. Along with them, we got African Blue Tits, Great Spotted Woodpeckers and Common Ravens. It didn’t take long before we got the first Blue Chaffinch, quietly singing while perched in the out for us! We had been tracking their contact calls for some minutes, but was Bud who finally spotted the bird! During the coming 40 minutes we enjoyed several views on Blue Chaffinches, both males and females while feeding on the ground, chasing each other or having more than words with one of the Great Spotted Woodpeckers around.
Totally satisfied after this first stop in the Canary Islands, we just drove to our accommodation to enjoy an extraordinary dinner!
Kentish Plover (Anarhynchus alexandrinus) in Mallorca.Berthelot’s Pipit (Anthus berthelotii) close up.Tenerife Blue Chaffinches (Fringilla teydea) provided great looks in one of the typical places for the species (above & below). Echium wildpretii, a gorgeous endemic plant from the Canary Islands (Teide NP).
Day 7. Tenerife. Early morning breakfast for the group before transfering North of the island to look for the many specialties living in the laurel forest. It is a fresh day and as we park we soon enjoy views on Atlantic Canaries feeding around and the distinctive Canary Island Chiffchaffs being very active. ACommon Buzzard soars the sky, and we are surprised by the good activity of Bolle’s Pigeon feeding in the canopies, flying around and flocking in the trees that holds their food. We spent some time enjoying them, but our attention is required in the sky as the very first Common Kestrel in the Canary Islands appears also in the sky. As in many species here, this is a specific race, and in this case it is smaller and duller, with a distinctive tawny tint in the underneath. The Kestrel was still in the sky when a Laurel Pigeon arrives to one of the most popular trees, landing in the middle of the Bolle’s Pigeon, but out of view. As we concentrate our efforts in locating this bird, a secondLaurel Pigeon flies into some large Pines, but only Keith manages short views on the bird while it is perched in the outer branches.
We still spent some time in the parking before starting our walk, but we never had any other Laurel showing here. The path we are following goes up the hill and gets inside a very interesting, almost pristine, laurel forest. In our way up, some European Robin (race superbus, considered as a full species in some lists) show up, producing really good looks. A bit beyond we also find the recently split Canary Island Chaffinch while a small flock of Plain Swift is flying around us and a pair of Eurasian Sparrowhawk is soaring the sky. We spent most of the morning in the area, but we could not get any further view on Laurel Pigeons. Instead, some lovely Tenerife Goldcrest (race teneriffae, another serious potential split) provided the group with excellent views!
Back to the van, we drove a short distance to enjoy a typical Canarian meal. We were all happy after the many sightings on Bolle’s Pigeon (35+ birds!) and all the other endemics. We were about to leave Tenerife but we wanted better views on Laurel Pigeon so in the way back a fast stop was done and from here got excellent views on at least 18 Laurel Pigeons! They were very active, flying along the slopes. Two or three times we got scope views on perched Laurel Pigeon and all 4 scopes concentrated on them! By 14:30 we were back to the airport. We had “cleared” the island in less than one day!!
We took a commuter flight to Fuerteventura. But, by the time we arrived there it was already a bit late in the afternoon. Still, a last stop was made by a pond where we had the first Ruddy Shelducks and Laughing Doves of the trip plus good looks on 2 very attractive summer plomaged Dunlins, 1 Little Ringed Plover, 1 Yellow Wagtail, and some Egyptian Vultures, very active despite the strong wind.
Canary Island Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus canariensis) showing the broad eye brow and the long, rather decurved bill. Tenerife Robing (Erithacus rubecula superbus), a serious candidate to become full species.Tens of Bolle’s Pigeons (Columba bollii) were feeding in the wood lands, but always conveniently far..The recently split Canary Islands Chaffinch (Fringilla canariensis) has become a new endemic of the islands. At the end we enjoyed at least 18 Laurel Pigeons (Columba junoniae) feeding and gathering in a gorge.
Day 8. Fuerteventura. It had been a windy night, and when we gathered at the lobby of our accommodation for a pre-breakfast exploration of the desert around, I have to confess that I was a bit worry about the possibilities of get the birds during the day. We drove the short distance to a good location for some desert birds. As we drove in, the first lights of the day revealed some Yellow-legged Gulls in the move. Surprisingly it didn’t take long before we found a wonderful male Houbara Bustard standing up at a short distance from the minibus. we all got great views and we could track a bit the large bird as it was moving in the desert. At some point we lost track, and kept driving a bit beyond only to find a female Houbara Bustard. We stop and decided to walk out of the vehicle so everybody could have a good chance for views and photos.
As we were enjoying the female, we suddenly got the male coming from the opposite side of the track and, for our surprise, started displaying only 100 meters away from us. The display on this species is admirable, as they become a wonderful white ball, starting running up while is converted in a snow ball. We saw the bird displaying for long, and even crossed the small road in the search of the female that was running the opposite slope.
Once we enjoyed very much this splendid moment, we decided to come back to the accommodation and enjoy a well deserved breakfast.
After breakfast we left our accommodation and drove West in the search of proper habitat for the other main target in the island. Even before arrived to the place we had to slow down. A very nice Egyptian Vulture was feeding on the ground along with Common Ravens. A bit beyond, we started scanning the endless rocky desert that host many of the good birds living in the island. Soon, we got 3 Black-bellied Sandgrouses flying into the plain and stopping in the rocky plain. It took us a couple of minutes to figure out where they landed, and a gentle approach allowed us to have very close views on all 3 birds; 2 males and 1 young. A marvellous morning light was on the birds, and the photographers in the group enjoyed this very much. We parked a bit beyond and had a stroll along a wide valley. A small reservoir of water that serves for irrigate some areas around is the best wetland in the island. We got some Black-winged Stilts and 3 Little Ringed Plovers but, unfortunately, nothing else. Small flocks of Sandgrouses were mobile in the area, probably attending the water pond in a place out of view. We got amazing flight views, with several flocks calling as they were crossing the valley at full speed. We counted a minimum of 18 individuals.
A few moments later we got the a nice pair of Fuerteventura Chats moving in the dry river bed. They were a bit far away so we decided to walk down the slope and a few minutes later we were enjoying really nice looks in both, male and female. The male appear to be a bit dirty due to the muddy river bed. Several flocks of Sandgrouses flew over us and 2 Cream-coloured Courser joined them at some point! A further walk through the habitat allowed us to have ruff views on Trumpeter Finches but close views on both 2 Stone Curlews, the Canary Islands race of Great Grey Shrike and Spanish Sparrows. Very distantly, a Barbary Falcon showed out briefly chasing a small bird.
We went back to our accommodation for some lunch. Outside, the wind started to blow in a very serious way and our perspectives for an afternoon birding almost vanishes. Still, we decided to go out and try to catch up with something else. This time we went to the famous Tendaya plains, and we were delighted with our choice from the very beginning. Not even arrived to the habitat we had to spot to admire a flock of extremely close Black-bellied Sandgrouses feeding inside a enclosure for goats. They were feeding along with Collared Doves, a bit grotesque if you want, but equally enjoyable! Only a few yards beyond we made a stop to explore some nice bushland. The Great Grey Shrikes kept down in the habitat, away from the strong wind, but our walk was rewarded with solid views on 3 Spectacled Warblers, 1 migratory Spotted Flycatcher and 4 Barbary Partridges moving a bit far away from us. The area was full of Trumpeter Finches and we all enjoyed great views on these little gems. The surprise of the afternoon was a nice female Eurasian Golden Oriole but the wind started to get really serious. It was probably time to move back. In the extra time, we still had a gorgeous female Houbara Bustard walking along the mini vas, and providing great looks in the wonderful afternoon light.
A superb Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata) in full display was the best of our pre-breakfast outing in Fuerteventura. Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus) has in Fuerteventura one of the few non-migratory populations of this species worldwide. Black-bellied Sandgrouse (Pterocles orientalis) melting with the landscape.Fuerteventura Chat (Saxicola dacotiae), endemic from that island and with a fastly decreasing population.Spanish Sparrow (Passer hispanoliensis) We were lucky to enjoy extremely close views on some Black-bellied Sandgrouses (Pterocles orientalis), including this female. Trumpeter Finch (Bucanetes githagineus) close up. Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata)
Day 9. Fuerteventura – Gran Canaria. We woke up in Fuerteventura in another windy morning. In our way to the airport, we did a couple of stops to try to have some migratory birds, but we really few luck. In our stops we only got 1 European Bee-eater, 2 Dunlins in full summer plumage and 3 Western Yellow Wagtails along with Eurasian Hoopoes,Linnets and some Berthelot’s Pipits.
Once in Gran Canaria, we drove up in the hills with the hope of contacting with the extremely scarce Gran Canaria Blue Chaffinch. With an estimated population of about 50 males left, this is the most endangered songbird in the Macaronesia!
Our way up provided us the best views on Plain Swifts so far in the trip as they were feeding along the lane, showing us their flight capabilities and taking advantage of the strong wind to fly really low over the tarmac. A couple of Canary Island Chaffinch also crossed the road and a Common Kestrel (dacotiae race) was also seen hunting. We arrived to the mature pine forests that serve as a habitat for this extremely endangered species. Right arrived, we had a bird singing a number of times up in the canopy. It was midday, and we were surprised to listen the bird singing. Unfortunately we couldn’t locate the bird, and we hang around some time, convinced that the finch could not be really far away. During this time, we got nice views on the Gran Canaria Chaffinch, and enjoy very much with a pair of Great Spotted Woodpeckers that were attending a nest nearby. Some Atlantic Canaries were also active, feeding in the area so our Chaffinch could not be far away!
We dispersed a bit, and finally was James who found the feeding along with some Canaries. The bird flew off, landing next to Dorothy, who pointed out the bird and anyone in the group could enjoy close views on this extremely scarce bird! Mission accomplished, and in less than 1 hour, so we still had time to go down to the coast and try to contact with the long staying Sudan Golden Sparrows in a urban parc in the capital city of the island. Here we got Ring-necked Parakeets, the long-staying (and ship assisted) Pied Crow, Eurasian Blackcaps and intimate views on Canary Islands Chiffchaffs and Atlantic Canaries. But, unfortunately, we never saw the Sparrows.
From here, we still have a drive to our accommodation, where we had a wonderful dinner in a local restaurant. Well, the clients had a wonderful dinner and the tour leader got his tiramisu stolen by some guests!!!!!!! How is this even possible!?!?
Gran Canaria Blue Chaffinch (Fringilla polatzeki), an extremely endangered endemic songbird.The amazing cliffs of Gran Canaria, a nesting site of Barolo’s Shearwaters. Happy faces after contacting with Gran Canaria Chaffinch!
Day 10. Gran Canaria – Madeira. This was basically a transfer day. With the few time available we tried again the Sudan Golden Sparrows but, as a local birdwatcher told us, they seemed to be vanished from their normal spots.
In the evening we landed in Madeira and we directly went to our accommodation for some rest.
Atlantic Canary (Serinus canaria) in a urban park in Las Palmas.
Day 11. Madeira. Relaxed morning to explore the outskirts of our accommodation and work some of the logistics for the offshores to come. Common Sandpiper, Common Waxbills, Grey Wagtail and Lesser Black-backed Gull was the most interesting birds before we step on the boat.
Once on the ocean, We headed South and soon after we were enjoying the first Cory’s Shearwaters of the trip. The ocean was a bit rough and we had to break through several 3 metres high waves to arrive to the proper birding places. But we were not alone, since several Bulwer’s Petrels were flying around. We counted at least 10 of this very smart sea birds. Along with the common Cory’s Shearwaters we also had a small number of Manx’s since here is one of the Southernmost places where do they nest!
But everything started to pack together when we had our first Pterodroma in the air. At the beginning the bird was a bit far away but we didn’t have to wait long before the bird came closer, confirming what most suspected, we were admiring a Zino’s Petrel, one of the most scarce see birds in this part of the world!!
Nesting high in the central part of the island, Zino’s Petrel main known colony is about 200 pairs! We all got solid views in this majestic bird, and we were surprised to see a 2nd Zino’s Petrel flying a bit more far away off our ship!
In the way to back, we had a good surprise, since a Barolo Shearwater took off along with some Manx Shearwaters. Unfortunately, not everyone in the group could enjoy thi tiny Shearwater.. When arriving to the harbour, a distant Whimbrel was also a nice adding to our trip list.
Cory’s Shearwater (Calonectris diomedea) during our first Madeiran offshore.Bulwer’s Petrels (Bulweria bulwerii) were surprisingly common in our first boat trip.Zino’s Petrel (Pterodroma madeira) flying close to our boat.
Day 12.Madeira. After a nice breakfast, we went to spend the morning looking for the endemics living in the island. A first exploration close to the accommodation produced nice views on the both Madeiran Chaffinch and Madeiran Firecrest plus several Eurasian Blackcaps and a few Common Buzzards and Goldfinches. From here we moved to Funchal, where a nice short walk inside a local garden produced very nice views on the also endemic Trocaz Pigeon. Back to the accommodation, we had a free afternoon before going with our nocturnal walk up to visit the Zino’s Petrel colony.
Walking in the night in the highest mountains in Madeira is always as impressive as the first time. The scenery is abrupt, broken and has the sense of mystery and discovery that everyone is searching when travelling around the world. That night was rather cold, and the squeals of the Petrels arrived to us as distant ecos in the mist.
Madeiran Chaffinch (Fringilla madeirensis), another recent split for our group!Madeira Firecrest (Regulus madeirensis), my closest ever views on a Regulus Warbler!Trocaz Pigeon (Columba trocaz), a very impressive inhabitant of the indigenous forests in Madeira.
Day 13. Madeira. After a late breakfast, we went to the Eastern tip of Madeira, a good place to have a couple of complementary species in the island. As we parked the car, we noticed Spectacled Warblers in the low scrublands. For our surprise, James and Sonja found a nest with a female inside, probably protecting the young birds from the strong and rather cold wind blowing that morning. Both male and female were doing several visits to the nest, feeding the youngs, and both alternate on lying on the young birds.
Our walk around produced a bunch of Atlantic Canaries and good views on Berthelot’s Pipits. Spectacled Warblers were well active all around the slope. We were in search of the small population of Common Rock Sparrows living here, and we were surprised to find a female-type Trumpeter Finch instead! It was at the top of a fence, and it looked like be moving along with the several Atlantic Canaries around! This is a big rarity in Madeira, with only a handful of previous records!
Really happy to have this really good bird in our visit to Madeira, we moved a bit away to scan a slope where we previously heard the Common Rock Sparrows calling. We scanned a bit with poor results, and we were about to leave when Barbara just came to us with a great image of a Common Rock Sparrow sitting on a rock. We parked again the minibus, walked down the slope and soon we were having a nice pair of Rock Sparrows that looked like collecting food for a close nest! This last stop was nicely complemented by a Red-legged Partridge peacefully sitting on a small bare area. Even if not natural to the island, this is always a handsome bird to have.
Happy after this nice morning, we just came back to the accommodation for a nice lunch a good rest before our 2nd offshore.
Spectacled Warbler (Curruca conspicillata), inhabits low scrubland both in the coast and in the top of the highest mountains.Trumpeter Finch (Bucanetes githagineus); third record for Madeira?Common Rock Sparrow (Petronia petronia). As some islands around the Macaronesia, Madeira holds a small population of them.
This time we headed North-East, and the offshore was dominated by good numbers of Bulwer’s Petrels moving around the boat. We also had at least 3 European Storm Petrels feeding along, and we could compare this small species with 2 Wilson’s Stormies that also came along, offering very and several views. To end the afternoon we had rather distant but solid views on 1 Madeiran Storm Petrel that, unfortunately, never came close enough but that we enjoyed very much! In the way back, we had nice flocks of both Manx & Cory’s Shearwaters resting on the sea, providing some very close views..
Cory’s Shearwater (Calonectris diomedea). European Storm Petrel (Hydrobates pelagicus) showing the wide underwing band.Wilson’s Storm Petrel (Oceanites oceanicus) came, at times, very close to the boat!European Storm Petrel (Hydrobates pelagicus)Wilson’s Storm Petrel (Oceanites oceanicus) “walking” the sea.A nice pod of Short-finned Pilot Whales (Globicephala macrorrhynchus) came across our boat. Manx Shearwater (Puffinus puffinus) close up.
Day 14. Morning off. Last offshore. After having a free morning to enjoy the wonderful Madeiran wines, we assembled again in the afternoon, ready for our last offshore in this island. In our way to the harbour we were joined by a small flock of Ruddy Turnstones; 6 of them were feeding at the end of a small stream.
It was clearly less windy than the previous days, and the offshore was again dominated by the good numbers of Cory’s Shearwaters and Bulwer’s Petrels. Soon, we were again enjoying both Wilson’s & European Storm Petrels, but all the eyes turned away from them when a wonderful Desertas Petrel appeared in the sky. Darker and structurally heavier (especially when it comes to the bill) than Zino’s, we all enjoyed several views on this really unknown taxon while riding the waves!
So nice to enjoy a flock of Ruddy Turnstones (Arenaria interpres) in our way to the dock!Wilson’s Storm Petrel (Oceanites oceanicus) in mild afternoon light.Deserta’s Petrel (Pterodroma deserta) with its island as a background.Deserta’s Petrel (Pterodroma deserta) -left- versus Bulwer’s Petrel (Bulweria bulwerii) -right.
Day 15. Madeira. This day we were supposed to fly to Sao Miguel, but our flight was cancelled. We got the news early in the morning, and some of the tour participants took a guided walk around Funchal, while the rest stayed at the accommodation to enjoy some rest.
After a morning of telephone calls to make sure that our accommodation and minibus were still waiting for us at Ponta Delgada the they after, some of us reassembled again for an afternoon walk. Along the stream next to our accommodation we got a drake Glossy Ibis along with the common Muscovy Ducks. Eurasian Moorhen was also an island tick, and along with these species we got the normal selection of Atlantic Canaries, Common Waxbills, Eurasian Blackcaps and Eurasian Blackbirds. A Grey Wagtail was showing nicely in the stream, and at the far end of it we still got 4 Ruddy Turnstones feeding among the rocks. From here we got a taxi to explore the Westernmost point of the island. A walk around produced again nice views on Rock Sparrows, Berthelot’s Pipits and Spectacled Warblers. Here, 3 Barn Swallows were a new surprise. Our walk around also produced really a pair of Roseate Terns holding a territory in the Northern coast of the island. They were quite far away, but we spent 40 minutes enjoying scope views to make sure that everybody catched the absence of a black rear edge in the wings.
After this we just went back to the accommodation to get ready for a nice evening meal.
A drake Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus), a description species for Madeira. Without wind, we got several sights on Spectacled Warblers (Curruca conspicillata), like this female.
Day 16. Madeira – Sao Miguel. After our flight was delayed for one day, we finally got out of Madeira, landing in Ponta Delgada during the early afternoon. Before living Madeira we saw again the drake Glossy Ibis in the creek by the hotel, and Dorothée and Sonja had a Western House Martin flying around the airport.
Once in Sao Miguel, we directly moved to one of the strongholds for the endemic and very endangered Azores Bullfinich. In the way we got a good selection of the common birds in this island including several European Robins, Common Buzzards, Grey Wagtails, Common Starlings and Atlantic Canaries (very common here). We also got a few Common Woodpigeons, Eurasian Goldfinches and ruff views on the endemic Azores Chaffinch.
Once at the place we started looking for these small Bullfinches. For about one hour we quietly scanned the vegetation looking for movement, but we only got Goldcrests and Blackcaps singing around us. At some point we started to disperse when suddenly Keith yelled from down the path. We all ran down to find him pointing up in the hillside, where two superb Azores Bullfinches were feeding in a small tree. This was a lifer bird for all, including me, and it was really celebrated considering the few time we got to try to find it!
The birds went away after some minutes of sighting, and we walked down to the van. But we were around the van William saw something flying down inside a small creek. We went to see what it was, and James found the two Bullfinches feeding only a couple of metres away from the group, really low in the vegetation! This was a wonderful view, way better that what we were expecting to have in such a short period of time.
From here we went down to our accommodation, with one stop to have better views on the Azores Chaffinches. There, we got also really got looks on 1 Azores Noctule, the only endemic mammal of the islands, flying in full daylight! Around our accommodation, a shortstop was added to scan a small island. Beyond the small colony of Common Terns, we got to see 9 Cory’s Shearwaters flying really close to the coast in really good light.
Azores Chaffinch (Fringilla moreletti) feeding in an open land. Azores Bullfinch (Pyrrhula murina) Azores Bullfinch (Pyrrhula murina) close up.
Day 17. Sao Miguel – Terceira. Before our connection flight with Terceira, we had time to explore a bit the promenade around Ponta Delgada, where we got 3 Whimbrels and 4 Ruddy Turnstones along with the typical views on some Cory’s Shearwaters moving not especially close to the coast. A second stop was made by the Lagoa Verde, to enjoy further views on Azores Chaffinches, Azorean Common Woodpigeon, Atlantic Canaries, Common Terns, Goldcrests and Little Egrets.
Once arrived to Terceira, we had an afternoon walk around the famous Paúl de Praia Victoria. Nothing of interest was seen beyond Common Waxbills and some pairs of Moorhens and Coots and an escaped Cockatail. At the evening, a further walk produced an interesting Great White Egret (a local rarity) roosting in the lagoon.
Great White Egret (Ardea alba) roosting in Terceira.Azores Common Woodpigeon (Columba palumbus azorica), another splittable race.
Day 18. Terceira. After breakfast we walked down to the harbour, where our boat was waiting for us. That morning we had a bit of rain, but nothing really serious.
Out in the sea, we soon had the first Cory’s Shearwaters but our eyes were looking for something smaller. It didn’t take long before we got the first 2 Barolo’s Shearwaters, and soon after another 3 or 4 birds moving along with Cory’s. The difference of size was just incredible. Other small flocks were seen, with great views and also great photo chances! Beyond the Shearwaters, we had to go further South before we got the main target of the offshore. It was a bit long waiting, with the Ocean being really plain, but suddenly a wonderful Monteiro’s Storm Petrel showed out for us, performing in a great way and allowing us to see its forked tail. What a stunner!
Very glad with this great species, we just went back to Terceira while enjoying more Barolo’s Shearwaters. At the end, no less than 14 Barolo’s were seen, not bad at all!
We were lucky to get lovely views on Monteiro’s Storm Petrel (Oceanodroma monteiroi)Our group back to the harbour in Terceira after enjoying Monteiro’s Storm Petrel.Barolo Shearwaters (Puffinus baroli) were surprisingly common around Terceira.
Day 19. Terceira – Lisbon. This was basically a travel day back to Lisbon, but our midday flight allowed us some local birding before leaving Açores. A short walk from our accommodation gave us access to a very nice farmland. Keith was here the they before, and he was already enjoying the Common Quails. That was our main target for the morning and after some search we finally found the first of them. And then a second and even a third bird, all of them singing from the top of the lovely stone walls that served to mark the limits of the properties. Along with them, waves of Atlantic Canaries, Blackbirds and Blackcaps to say goodbye to these wonderful islands!
Arrived to Lisbon, we just went down the corner of our accommodation, where a very nice local restaurant was waiting for the group. It was another pleasant dinner full of fun and good mod. A perfect way to end the first half of the Odyssey!
Common Quail (Coturnix coturnix) singing from a stone edge.
Day 20. Lisbon – Sofia. Early morning flight connecting Lisbon with Sofia, the capital city of Bulgaria. Our group of guests landed and they immediately met Sergi and their local guide, but all of that will be explained soon..
List of birds seen during the tour
Mute Swan (Cygnus olor)
Ruddy Shelduck (Tadorna ferruginea)
Common Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna)
Greylag Goose (Anser anser)
Marbled Teal (Mamaronetta angustirostris)
Gadwall (Marecca strepera)
Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)
Northern Pintail (Anas acuta)
Northern Shoveler (Spatula clypeata)
Garganey (Spatula querquedula)
Common Pochard (Aythya ferina)
Ferruginous Duck (Aythya nyroca)
White-headed Duck (Oxyura leucocephala)
Common Quail (Coturnix coturnix)
Red-legged Partridge (Alectoris rufa)
Barbary Partridge (Alectoris barbara)
European Nightjar (Caprimulgus europaeus)
Red-necked Nightjar (Caprimulgus ruficollis)
Common Pheasant (Phaisanus colchinus)
Little Bustard (Tetrax tetrax)
Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata)
Common Swift (Apus apus)
Plain Swift (Apus unicolor)
Pallid Swift (Apus pallidus)
Alpine Swift (Tachymarpstis melba)
Common Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus)
Great Spotted Cuckoo (Clamator glandarius)
Pin-tailed Sandgrouse (Pterocles alchata)
Black-bellied Sandgrouse (Pterocles orientalis)
Feral Pigeon (Columba livia)
Stock Dove (Columba oenas)
Common Wood Pigeon (Columba palumbus)
Trocaz Pigeon (Columba trocaz)
Bolle’s Pigeon (Columba bollii)
Laurel Pigeon (Columba junoniae)
European Turtle Dove (Streptopelia turtur)
Eurasian Collared Dove (Streptopelia decaocto)
Laughing Dove (Streptopelia senegalensis)
Water Rail (Rallus aquaticus) —————————— heard only
All images in this trip report by Carles Oliver. All rights reserved.
Overview: Our 7th tour in Northern Finland & Finnmark was again a very successful adventure, despite some notorious absences. One of the most noticeable things during the trip was the almost total absence of Crossbills, with extremely few contacts and only a couple of proper sights. Parrot Crossbills seemed disappeared, with no records at all in the area. We got excellent views on all the Grouses during the trip, plus 5 species of Owls despite the low density of them both around Oulu and in Varanger. On the contrary, both Rustic & Little Buntings seemed to be everywhere in some parts of the trip, and Red-flanked Bluetail & Three-toed Woodpecker performed for our group in a very straightforward way.
Day 1. Part of group landed in Oulu with a small delay due to the heavy traffic at Barcelona Airport. We met some of the clients at Oulu Airport, where we got delayed again due to a problem with the delivery of one of the vans. We normally have a small window of birding in this first afternoon of the trip, but those delays smashed that window and the first birding of the tour was done after dinner.
We met the rest of the tour participants at the dinner, and taking advantage of the very late sunset, we had a small walk immediately around the hotel. Here we had a first contact with some common birds in this part of Finland, including Redwing, Pied & Spotted Flycatchers, Sedge Warbler, Red-breasted Merganser, Common & Arctic Terns, Common Redshank, Oystercatcher, Eurasian Teal, Gadwall, Northern Shoveler, Pintails but also other species a bit more scarce in this area such as Common Rosefinch, White-tailed Eagle, Black-tailed Godwits and the very first drake Garganeys of the tour.
Day 2. This day we went out for some owling. As always, a very early start is required so we left our accommodation ready to enjoy the first birding day of the trip, and our packed breakfasts! Small flocks of the distinctive Baltic race of the Western Jackdaw were everywhere, along with some Rooks. Our first stop was to check a nesting hole that was being used by Ural Owl, and we were lucky enough to be there when the female was on the nest. Even if the angle was not easy, everybody had good views on the bird including scope views on the face and the eyes of the bird. Walking in the boreal forest we heard the first Black Grouse of the trip as well as Common Redstart and the first of many Scandinavian Willow Tit.
A second stop in the boreal forest was to check a nesting area of Tengmalm’s Owl. Again, we were very lucky and even from the edge of the woods we saw a lovely chick of Tengmalm’s with its head blocking the aperture of the nest. The next ten minutes were simply magnificent. With the group sitting down on the boreal forest, we had excellent views on this chick while moving its head side to side, observing the trees around. At some point, it became clearly excited, almost about to jump from the nest! Suddenly, a call came from the forest but before we searched for the bird, Nick pointed out second chick of Tengmalm’s Owl that was perched only 3 metres away from us! The views on this 2nd bird were simply amazing, and after a couple of minutes we decided to step back. We found ourselves to be too close!
We still had some minutes to keep enjoying the Tengmalm’s Owls before moving to a different spot. In the way, we got 2 Red-backed Shrikes moving in the road, the only ones of the tour! Our next stop was close by in one of the several farming areas hosting Ortolan Buntings around Oulu. It didn’t take us long before finding the first male singing, followed by at least 2 other males and 2 more birds feeding on the ground. Other interesting birds here included Yellowhammer, Reed Bunting, some drake Whinchats singing in the edges of the fields and Common Whitethroat while Common Rosefinch was singing around.
Back to the forest, we explored a suitable spot for Three-toed Woodpecker. Here, we got nice views on Wood Warblers but also on Lesser Whitethroats and Pied Flycatchers. Still, all of this goes to a second frame, because the main character of the stop were the obliging pair of Eurasian Three-toed Woodpecker attending its nest only a few metres away from us! It was a real privilege to see the often considered as the most difficult species of woodpecker in Europe so close and for so long!
After such a great moment we decided to change a bit of ambient and a fast stop in a small lake produced two nesting pairs of Slavonian Grebes. Unfortunately they were not as close as in previous trips, but offered us good views anyway. Our next stop was to check a proper spot for Eurasian Pygmy Owl. Back in spot with dense spruce forest, it didn’t take long before we got a bird calling deep in the woods, and a couple of minutes later we got the bird moving around us! It was late in the morning, and the Pygmy Owl was followed by a cohort of forest birds including several Siskins but also 2 Chaffinches, 1 Great Tit, 1 Common Redstart and 1 Yellowhammer. The Owl was constantly moving around, being disturbed and moved by the smaller birds and the best way to try to locate it was to follow the flock of small birds calling and moving in the canopy.
This was actually the last birding stop of the morning. It was time for an early lunch and a very well deserved break. Since we had some small problems with one of the vans, no serious birding was programmed until after dinner.
Eurasian Three-toed Woodpecker (Picoides tridactylus) provide the group with unforgettable views, and three different sights during the trip!Female (down) & male (up) three-toed Woodpecker around their nesting hole.Ortolan Bunting (Emberiza hortulana) is a scarce nesting species in Finland that keeps some strong spots around Oulu.Tengmalm’s Owl (Aegolius funereus) showing out of the nest.We enjoyed 5 unforgettable minutes with very close views on this Tengmalm’s fledging. Eurasian Pygmy Owl (Glaucidium passerinum) performed really well for our group! Flying Pygmy Owl. Something not that easy to catch!Part of our group enjoying the Tengmalm’s Owl.
After dinner we covered the short distance to the very last spot for nesting Terek’s Sandpipers in Finland. After parking our vans, we had a small walk around enjoying Common Rosefinch, Eurasian Curlew, Common Ringed Plover and the only 2 Little Ringed Plovers of the trip. A Terek’s Sandpiper was singing around but we were unable to connect with the bird. Finally, it was Aonghus who found the bird singing from the top of a distant lamp post. We walked down to the bird, but still took us 10 or 15 minutes to finally enjoy wonderful views, with the bird displaying around us and stopping in the lamp posts around us. In the walk, I got Caspian Tern and Northern Wheatear but I was the only one to notice them. Unfortunately, that was the only Caspian Tern to show out in the whole tour..
Very happy after these great views on Terek’s Sandpipers, we went back to the accommodation to have a very well deserved rest after a wonderful first day of the trip!
This year there were decent numbers of Common Rosefinches during the first days of the trip. Here a lovely female.Terek’s Sandpiper (Xenus cinereus) gave us excellent views after a funny circular walk all around its territory..
Day 3. Before breakfast we visited a birding tower around Oulu. This is a really well known spot for general birding in the area, and in former trips we have got amazing lists here! This time the number of birds was more reduced but still we got good views on Common Snipe, distant Spotted Redshanks (6), but also Ruffs, White-tailed Eagles, the only 2 Mute Swans of the tour, singing Reed Buntings and Arctic Terns. Here we also listened the only Greater Bittern of the tour.
After checking out from our accommodation we started to transfer to Oulu. In the way, we had a stop in the forest to try to get other species of Woodpeckers. It was already late morning, and the temperature (believe or not) was close to 30ºC in the warmest ever day for me in Finland! We got signs of Grey-headed Woodpecker but our efforts were regarded with excellent views on Black Woodpecker superbly perched on the top of a spruce tree. Here we also got nice views on Eurasian Bullfinches (Scandinavian) and Great Spotted Woodpecker.
In we had the best views on Common Snipe of the whole trip. Despite the unusual 30ºC we enjoyed great views on Black Woodpecker!
We had lunch in the way and arrived into Kuusamo in the early afternoon. The weather was clearly different than in the Baltic coast, with temperatures not exceeding the 20ºC and scattered rains in the area. Our first stop in Kuusamo was a very short trail to enjoy one of the most beautiful buntings in the country. Even from the car park it was possible to listen them singing. We were lucky so it was a question of not wasting time, and only a pair of minute after we were having excellent views on 2 Little Buntings singing really close to us and showing superbly for the whole group! We were not far away from a lake, and a number of Little Gulls were flying above us, most of them quite high up. Not a big deal, because from the Bunting place it only took us five minutes to arrive into a Little Gull colony. Here we enjoy these little gems but also got excellent views on two pairs of Red-necked Grebes, and the first drake Black-throated Divers of the trip. A few minutes from this watching point also produced a flying Short-eared Owl, and lovely views on Baltic Gulls (Larus fuscus fuscus). Other species here included Wigeon, Pintail, Eurasian Teal, Redwing and a wonderful Eurasian Woodcock singing in flight and crossing in the sky with a displaying Common Snipe!
After this great stop we just drove back to the accommodation for some dinner and rest.
Some of the gorgeous views on Little Bunting during the trip. What a cracker!To see a bunch of Little Gulls (Hydrocolaeus minimus) at a nesting site is always a beautiful experience!One of the very few Baltic Gulls (Larus fuscus fuscus) of the trip!Part of the group enjoying Little Bunting.
Day 4. Very early start to check some interesting locations around our accommodation. This morning our goal was to connect with some of the very good birds living in the boreal forest. Only 300 metres away from the accommodation we had a first flock of Rustic Buntings, with three individuals showing nicely on the dart road despite the poor light. A bit of driving soon produced a nice male Western Capercaillie, that was only enjoyed by the second vehicle. Along the next hour we had some drive with little reward in terms on Grouses, and we only got a lovely male Black Grouse showing itself at the top of a spruce and a Willow Grouse that was only seen from the second vehicle. During the drive we also got very nice looks on a pair of Eurasian Woodcocks feeding in a meadow.
After a nice coffee stop we drove to one of the many hills in the area, and only arriving to the spot we had a stop to enjoy a pair of Hazel Grouses that were moving along the road. We walked around as the grouses were very active. A male was chasing a female and both were doing flights all around the place. After some fight, everyone in thegroup had good views on the birds moving on the ground. At the same spot, we also got one Rustic Bunting and a couple of Siberian Jays moving in the canopy. A bit further in the road, we also had our first attempt for Northern Hawk Owl, but the stop “only” produced a couple of Rustic Buntings, Willow Tit, Tree Pipit and even a Three-toed Woodpecker that was only seen by me..
Finally, we arrived to the Livaara, one of the most typical places for boreal species in Finland. The sun was already well high, and unfortunately was a bit warm. We walked up to the top, and it didn’t take long before we got our first Red-flanked Bluetail singing from the top of one of the spruces. A second male (2nd year old birds in both cases) were seen further beyond, but the area was quiet and we only got Tree Pipit and Spotted Flycatcher as other species of interest.
Our short afternoon was free so the group could explore the very nice habitat around our accommodation. Wood Sandpiper, Common Cuckoo, Greenshank and Black-throated Diver were some of the species seen by the group.
This Black Grouse (Lyrurus tetrix) was the best Grouse for the group around Kuusamo in the worst morning in that area for years! Scandinavian Willow Tit (Poecile montanus) spruce and pine forest in Northern Finland. Eurasian Woodcock (Scolopax rusticola), a common bird in Northern Finland.Rustic Buntings (Emberiza rustica) seemed to be everywhere this time, but we never got extra close views on them..Normally a difficult species to contact with, this year we got really good looks on Red-flanked Bluetail (Tarsiger cyanurus) at our first attempt.Some of the amazing spruce habitat around Kuusamo.
Day 5. A new day and a new early start. The first stop of the morning was to explore a nice spot for Willow Grouses. In previous trips we have always had very nice looks on them here, but this time we only got flight views as one male was singing around the area. Here we also got two of the very few Common Crossbills of the trip (no records of Parrot Crossbill this spring at all in the whole Northern Finland) and very nice views on Eurasian Treecreeper. When coming back to the vans, we also got 2 Elks (a female and young animal) crossing the road 200 metres away from us. It was a rather foggy morning in the hills so we decided to do some grouse drive, again with very little reward and the only species of interest were some Bohemian Waxwings in flight. Our last stop of the morning was at a well known spot for Siberian Jay. Here we got excellent views on this gorgeous bird as well as nice ScandinavianWillow Tit, Scandinavian Bullfinch and Goldcrest. At least 3 Red-flanked Bluetails were singing around but we never tried to connect with them after the nice views from the day before.
We started our transfer North, and our typical coffee stop was a bit ruined by a plain tire that made us spend one hour and so. After buying a new tire, we kept moving North, enjoying some nice creps as en route lunch. Here, from the lovely cabin by a large lake that serves crep house, we also got the only one Osprey of the trip and 2 Black-throated Divers, surprisingly still in winter plomage.
Eurasian Treecreeper (Certhia familiaris)Moose (Alces alces) out of the woods. That morning we had amazing views on Siberian Jays (Perisoreus infaustus)
Arrived to Ivalo, we still had time for some birding in a great boreal forest location. At our very first stop in the forest, we got excellent and long views on Siberian Tits plus the first proper views on Common Redpolls of the trip. A tiny walk around also produced nice views on a pair of Bohemian Waxwings that were feeding in the spruce, and our second contact with a Three-toed Woodpecker feeding in the forest and showing very well for the whole group! Other good birds here included Common Redstart and Pied Flycatcher. A wonderful reward for one hour of birdwatching. Unfortunately, this spot, normally great for Crossbills, was surprisingly low onthem..
Back to the vehicles, we had a small drive around and in only 45 minutes we discovered that this area was having more activity of Grouses that down in Kuusamo. It was a pleasant afternoon with only 15ºC, and we were surprised by a nice fock of 8 Black Grouses moving in the forest and 2 amazing female Western Capercaillies, one of them feeding around and a second one lying on the undergrowth, a fantastic find by Alba!
Some of the nice & long views on Siberian Tit (Poecile cinctus), one of the main targets for everyone in the group!Eurasian Three-toed Woodpecker (Picoides tridactylus) only a few metres away form Siberiant Tit and Bohemian Waxwing. Bohemian Waxwing (Bombycilla graculus) had good densities in Northern Lapland.Black Grouse (Lyrurus tetrix) around Ivalo. It is difficult to imagine a better sight on a female Capercaillie (Tetrao urogallus). A wonderful spot by tour participant Alba.
Day 6. After enjoying a nice breakfast in our accommodation we had a short walk around. Here we enjoy nice views on Pine Grosbeaks, but in the lake beside we also got 3 Smews including 2 drake males and a lovely pair of Velvet Scoters that were nesting close by.
From here we drove North to the Norwegian border with several stops in the nice lakes and the many marshes around. Red-breasted Merganser was common here along with Whooper Swan and Goldeneye. Wood Sandpiper and Common Redpoll were also noted but the first Bluethroat of the trip was probably the most appreciated bird along these stops. Further North, our last stop before the border produced the first Rough-legged Buzzards of the trip (4) and the only one White-throated Dipper of the trip.
Before getting into Norway, we got the most pintoresc lunch of the trip. Hey there, how many of you have tasted Elk stew in the Sami way?
Pine Grosbeak (Pinicola enucleator) is always one of the most sought-after birds of the trip. Male above; female below.Record shot of Velvet Scoter (Melanitta fusca)
Well, once inside Norway we drove North along the coast. A first proper stop produced the typical gulls in the area along with some summer plomaged Ruffs but also Eurasian Oystercatchers, Dunlins and 1 Little Stint. Escorted all the way by Rough-legged Buzzards, Parasitic Skuas and White-tailed Eagles, but also nice views on our first flocks of Tundra Bean Geese, we did our way North to arrive into a first lovely bay close by Vadso. Here we started scanning the many Common Eiders, and found the firsts Bar-tailed Godwits of the trip along with Common Redshanks and Dunlins. But the best surprise was to find 4 King Eiders, including two bizarre 1st summer males, that gave nice scope views despite the long way.
Nearby, a lovely pond was hosting 87 Red-necked Phalaropes that were feeding and displaying in a lovely afternoon light. There is simply no words to describe the beauty of these tiny waders in full summer plumage spinning in the water or simply chasing each other in the quiet and pristine ambient of that small Arctic pond. And that day we were even luckier! Along with the Phalaropes, the pond was hosting a minimum of 40 Ruffs, with some of the males in full display, battling, jumping and fighting in a scene that gave us excellent memories for the years to come!
A last walk around that pond still produced more species including Eurasian Curlew and Turnstones, and we had a short scan on the sea. Here, as the afternoon was passing by, thousands of Kittiwakes were moving back to their colonies after some hours of fish, closely followed by Parasitic Skuas and Great Black-backed Gulls. A detailed scan in the water produced another pair of Red-throated Divers feeding in the sea. In our way to the vans, we still had time to enjoy the first Red-throated Pipit of the trip.
Back to the cars we went for a comfort stop, but behind the petrol station is always a typical place for waders to be feeding in the afternoon, so I was directly to check and I was very pleased and surprised to find a Terek’s Sandpiper feeding along with a flock of Dunlins!!! This is quite a rarity for Norway and a great self found species for the group!
Tundra Bean Geese (Anser serrirostris) and Ruff lekking in our way to Vadso.We had some quality time in a wonderful Phalarope pond. Female above; male below. Drake Common Eider (Somateria mollissima). Without doubt one of the most attractive ducks in our region!Ruffs (Calidris pugnax) lekking.We were lucky to enjoy some nice Ruff action!A pair of Eurasian Oystercatchers surrounded by Red-necked Phalaropes.Here we enjoyed the first of many Red-throated Pipits (Anthus cervinus).We were lucky to find this Terek’s Sandpiper (Xenus cinereus) feeding along with Dunlins (Calidris alpina)!White-tailed Eagle (Hieraaetus albicilla) posing for us in lovely light. Amazing to see this icon of the Arctic like this!
Day 7. After enjoying a very nice breakfast based on the fish specialties of the Arctic Ocean, we walked the short distance to Vardo harbour. There, several Kittiwakes were moving in and out from the many colonies in buildings and along the docks. Along with them, there were also Arctic & Common Terns. The boat to Hornoya is only a 10 minutes ride but it was enough to give us a nice surprise, as 4 Northern Fulmars flew over the boat. These are the wonderful Arctic variety of the species, famous because of its bluish coloration. Unfortunately not everybody caught them in flight!
One of the most impressive views of Hornoya happens even before your arrive to the island. The last hundreds metres of sea before arriving are literally carpeted with hundreds, thousands of Guillemots and Razorbills. It is simply amazing to see that sea of Guillemots, something that I have never seen in any other seabird colony, not at least in the Northern Atlantic.
Hornoya hosts about 50,000 pairs of Guillemots, about a 15% of them are of the delicate “Bridled” variety. Along with them, 30,000 pairs of Kittiwakes, thousands of Razorbills, about 3,000 Atlantic Puffins, hundreds of Shags and smaller numbers of Northern Fulmars that combines with scattered colonies of Brünnich’s Guillemots (>300 pairs).
After a small walk in the island, we all enjoyed wonderful views not only in all the sea birds, but also on other wonderful side dishes including Red-throated & Scandinavian Rock Pipits, Barnacle Geese, a lovely although distant couple of Temminck’s Stints and Bluethroat. Our path up to the lighthouse also produced a very nice Twite, a very nice pick up by Roser and Joan.
Lovely views on Pectoral Sandpipers (Calidris matitima) in the fog next to our accommodation.Arctic Tern (Sterna paradisaea) Razorbill (Alca torda) close-up. Classiest auk in the continent!A friendly Bridled Guillemot in the colony.Guillemot (Uria aalge) waking up in the fogAtlantic Puffin (Fratercula arctica) close up.Brünnich’s Guillemot (Uria lomvia) -right- and Common Guillemot -left.Atlantic Puffin (Fratercula arctica) coming back to their nest after some fishing.A very handsome Black-legged Kittiwake (Rissa tridactyla). Rock Pipits (Anthus petrosus litoralis) were nesting in the lowest part of the island.
Back to the continent we headed North through a dense fog. Where the fog allowed, we did some stops along the bays, enjoying several flocks of Goosanders, Long-tailed Ducks and Black Scoters along with some Divers and Velvet Scoters. The fog was still intense, and wherever we had an open window, we had a stop to enjoy some birds, normally producing ruff views on Arctic Redpolls, Bluethroats and Redwings. In our way back to our accommodation we had a stop to check some Common Eiders and we were surprised to find a very nice White-billed Diver out in the sea. After leaving the cars out of the lane, we got to the beach to have closer views and everyone in the group got excellent views on this very sought-after species!
Very happy after this great spot, we drove back to the accommodation. Still, right before arriving we had a last stop. A White-billed Diver had been seen in inner bay in Vardo so we stop to check. The bird was still there, but it was sleeping and the fog was very thick so it was difficult to see anything.. Along with the Diver, we also had 3 Black Guillemots and some Purple Sandpipers feeding in the shore.
We found this Willow Grouse (Lagopus lagopus) just finishing a sand bath. Please note the sand hollow left hand of the Grouse.Black Scoter (Melanitta nigra) “pod” in a bay. The first Yellow-billed Diver (Gavia adamsii) of the trip was this distant bird. A wonderful view in the Arctic Ocean with the fog surrounding us.Very nice looking Reindeers (Rangifer tarandus) next-to-sea.
Day 8. This day we moved back North, to explore the uplands in Varanger. But before hitting to road we had a new stop in the bay inside Vardo. Here, without fog, we had amazing views on a wonderful drake White-billed Diver. The bird was just waking up and we could enjoy the bird only 40 metres away from us. The views on this amazing bird were again complemented with 3 Purple Sandpipers, again at very close range.
Back to the continent, we took advantage of the pristine ambient to enjoy the tundra. There we got excellent views on Lapland Buntings & Bluethroats but also lekking Ruffs, several Parasitic Skuas, White-tailed Eagles, Dunlins and European Golden Plovers. Moving North we were caught by the fog, and when crossing the uplands we were surprised by 2 wonderful and very close Willow Grouses that allowed very close views. En route, we had a flock of 6 Pink-footed Geese, the only sight of this species during the trip.
The delicious views on this White-billed Diver ranked high as bird of trip, exceeding the expectations of all our guests!WOW!Probably the most iconic passerine in the tundra, the very attractive Lapland Bunting (Calcarius lapponicus)Bluethroat (Luscinia svecica) showing out
Arrived to the uplands, we had a first stop to enjoy our packed lunches. Here, we found a nest of Arctic Redpolls in the bushy willows around a pond. The same pond was hosting a wonderful pair of Long-tailed Duck and Wood Sandpiper and Meadow Pipit were coming to feed in. Far away, some Long-tailed Skuas were flying here and there.
Driving throught the tundra, we had several Willow Grouses and a second pond produced great views on a nesting pair of Red-throated Divers but also on Ruffs, Red-necked Phalaropes, Teals,Pintails, the only 2 Scaups of the tour, Red-throated Pipits, Bar-tailed Godwit (very scarce nesting bird in the area) and several more.
Back to the coast, we visited a proper place for Gyrfalcon, but we had no luck with them this time. Instead, we got good views on White-tailed Eagles, Rough-legged Buzzards and a nesting colony of Great Cormorants. It was already late in the afternoon, a proper moment to go back to the tundra. In the way up we had a couple of stops to enjoy Willow Grouse and the only one Merlin of the tour, a lovely male perched for us in a small rock!
A few minutes later we were already in the proper habitat for the alpine species living in Varanger. It didn’t take long to find the first of a good number of Rock Ptarmigan nicely showing in the rocky landscapes. After long views despite the strong wind, we also located a couple of females feeding around. The very last of the Grouses to show out in the tour lead us also to contact with the first Horned Larks of the trip! This bird is getting scarcer and scarcer in the area, and becoming a treat to find them. A few more miles in the road produced more Temminck’s Stints but also lovely views on Horned Larks, even closer views on Ptarmigans and the cherry on cake; a wonderful pair of Snow Buntings singing and showing out for the group! In a memorable moment, we had Ptarmigan, Horned Lark and Snow Bunting all of them displaying for us at the same time in the same gorge!
From this wonderful scenery we just drove back to our accommodation to enjoy some nice meal and some rest in one of the very few hotels in the area.
Long-tailed Duck (Clangula hyemalis) still migrating North.Arctic Redpoll (Acanthis hornemanni) around its nest.Drake Black-throated Diver (Gavia arctica), the most elegant bird in the Arctic?Black Guillemot (Cepphus grylle) next to their nest boxOnce again we got excellent views on Rock Ptarmigan (Lagopus mutus). Here a wonderful male.Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris) overlooking its territory.Another stunner! Male Snow Bunting (Plectrophenax nivalis) only a few metres away from our group!
Day 9. Another sunny day in the Arctic tundra, and our group was out of the hotel very early in the morning. The breakfast was quite not as good as the rest of the days, but we had a good lunch to compensate the rather simple breakfast.
Back to the tundra, we had a stop in the way to enjoy close views on Long-tailed Skuas. Some walk was required, but we got excellent views on a pair of this always amazing birds! This year, the number of LT Skuas was reduced if comparing with previous trips. After checking the ponds we headed to the Northern coast, where we had some quality time on a wonderful seawatching point.
Here, we were delighted to see hundreds of “Blue” Fulmars feeding around a trawler. The ambient was grey and cold but the birding was excellent. Flocks and flocks of Goosanders were moving East. Here, migration still goes on for thousands of birds that will keep moving North East, going to nest in Siberia. A large flock of Long-tailed Ducks was feeding in the sea, and Mark found a magnificent drake King Eider feeding along with them. Out in the sea, we had some Divers moving East. they were mainly Red-throated, but we also got nice views on at least one White-billed Diver; the third for the trip! Other interesting species here included Black Guillemots along with Red-breasted Merganser, Common Eider and Atlantic Puffin. But the very best bird from this very advantage place was a wonderful Gyrfalcon that crossed right in front of our group, moving West. A great spot by Aonghus that almost everybody in the group could see even if it was moving really fast!
Before lunch, we made a stop in a pair of bays. There, along with the typical gulls and ducks for the area, we got a nice juvenile Little Gull. Checking flocks of Common Eiders, we counted a minimum of 4 King Eiders, all of them females-type birds. This time, despite the foggy ambient, everybody had excellent views on the birds.
After enjoying some very nice pizzas from a local pub, we just drove South, back into Finland with no remarkable birding stops during the afternoon.
Long-tailed Skuas (Stercorarius longicaudus) were scarce this year.Red-throated Diver (Gavia stellata) is a common nesting species in Varanger.During this morning we got some impressive views on White-tailed Eagle (Hieraaetus albicilla).Male King Eider (Somateria spectabilis) in the Arctic Ocean. King Eider female & two Common Eiders.1st summer female King EiderFemale King Eider (center) and 4 Common Eiders.
Day 10. Basically a transfer morning. With the group divided due to the different plane timetables, most of the group started the transfer South including an early stop for a very last go on Northern Hawk Owl. Soon after living the van, we heard a Northern Hawk Owl calling inside the forest, and during the next minutes we got excellent views into a pair of this very iconic species of the boreal forest, including the male coming with a mole to feed the female!
Seen the bird, we contacted with the tour participants that stayed longer at the accommodation (they had a flight later in the day) and they also could come to the place and see the bird!
Along with the Owl, a pair of Siberian Tits was moving also in the area. We even got lucky enough to contact with the Wilson’s Snipe that had been courtship in the boj nearby. Not great views anyway but the bird past by twice while singing. Besides, the very last stop of the trip only produced Eurasian Whimbrel.
Back to the van, we had a final transfer including a fight for a morning coffee. It was Sunday morning, and a early morning coffee in Lapland proved to be more difficult to find that most of the boreal specialties! Finally, we got our very well deserved coffee and we arrived to the airport with nice views on a Short-eared Owl as a bonus!
And to here arrives the chronicle of our 7th tour in Northern Finland and Finnmark. Really looking forward to our 2025 issue. Pretty sure that it will be as good as always is!
Finally, we got well deserved views on this amazing owl!Northern Hawk Owl ready to hawk!Short-eared Owl (Asio flammeus) was the very last speciality to show up in the trip.
List of birds seen during the tour
Whooper Swan (Cygnus cygnus)
Mute Swan (Cygnus olor)
Common Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna)
Greylag Goose (Anser anser)
Tundra Bean Goose (Anser serrirostris)
Pink-footed Goose (Anser brachyrhynchus)
Barnacle Goose (Branta leucopsis)
Eurasian Wigeon (Marecca penelope)
Gadwall (Marecca strepera)
Eurasial Teal (Anas crecca)
Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)
Northern Pintail (Anas acuta)
Northern Shoveler (Spatula clypeata)
Garganey (Spatula querquedula)
Tufted Duck (Aythya fuligula)
Scaup (Aythya marila)
Common Eider (Somateria mollissima)
King Eider (Somateria spectabilis)
Long-tailed Duck (Clangula hyemalis)
Common Scoter (Melanitta nigra)
Velvet Scoter (Melanitta fusca)
Goldeneye (Bucephala clangula)
Smew (Mergellus albellus)
Goosander (Mergus merganser)
Red-breasted Merganser (Mergus serratus)
Common Pheasant (Phaisanus colchinus)
Hazel Grouse (Bonasa bonasia)
Willow Grouse (Lagopus lagopus)
Rock Ptarmigan (Lagopus mutus)
Black Grouse (Lyrurus tetrix)
Western Capercaillie (Tetrao urogallus)
Common Swift (Apus apus)
Common Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus)
Feral Pigeon (Columba livia)
Common Woodpigeon (Columba palumbus)
Common Crane (Grus grus)
Great Crested Grebe (Podiceps cristatus)
Red-necked Grebe (Podiceps grisegena)
Slavonian Grebe (Podiceps auritus)
Corncrake (Crex crex) ———————————– heard only
Eurasian Oystercatcher (Haematopus ostralegus)
Common Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula)
Little Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius)
European Golden Plover (Pluvialis apricaria)
Northern Lapwing (Vanellus vanellus)
Temminck’s Stint (Calidris temminckii)
Dunlin (Calidris alpina)
Little Stint (Calidris minuta)
Purple Sandpiper (Calidris maritima)
Ruff (Calidris pugnax)
Eurasian Woodcock (Scolopax rusticola)
Common Snipe (Gallinago gallinago)
Wilson’s Snipe (Gallinago delicata) —————— heard only
Bar-tailed Godwit (Limosa lapponica)
Black-tailed Godwit (Limosa limosa)
Eurasian Curlew (Numenius arquata)
Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)
Spotted Redshank (Tringa erythropus)
Common Redshank (Tringa totanus)
Greenshank (Tringa nebularia)
Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola)
Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus)
Terek’s Sandpiper (Xenus cinereus)
Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos)
Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres)
Red-necked Phalarope (Phalaropus lobatus)
Little Gull (Hydrocoloeus minutus)
Black-headed Gull (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
Common Gull (Larus canus)
Great Black-backed Gull (Larus marinus)
Herring Gull (Larus argentatus)
Kittiwake (Rissa trydactyla)
Common Tern (Sterna hirundo)
Arctic Tern (Sterna paradisaea)
Arctic Skua (Stercorarius parasiticus)
Long-tailed Skua (Stercorarius longicaudus)
Guillemot (Uria aalge)
Brünnich’s Guillemot (Uria lomvia)
Razorbill (Alca torda)
Black Guillemot (Cepphus grylie)
Atlantic Puffin (Fratercula arctica)
Red-throated Diver (Gavia stellata)
Black-throated Diver (Gavia arctica)
White-billed Diver (Gavia adamsii)
Northern Fulmar (Fulmarus glaciallis)
Great Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo)
Shag (Gulosus aristotelis)
Greater Bittern (Botaurus stellaris) ————- heard only
Osprey (Pandion haliaetos)
Western Marsh Harrier (Circus aeruginosus)
Rough-legged Buzzard (Buteo lagopus)
European Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivorus)
White-tailed Eagle (Haliaetus albicilla)
Short-eared Owl (Asio flammeus)
Tengmalm’s Owl (Aegolius funereus)
Ural Owl (Strix uralensis)
Northern Hawk Owl (Surnia ulula)
Eurasian Pygmy Owl (Glaucidium passerinum)
Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major)
Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (Dryobates minor)
Three-toed Woodpecker (Picoides tridactylus)
Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius)
Common Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus)
Merlin (Falco columbarius)
Gyrfalcon (Falco rusticolus)
Red-backed Shrike (Lanius excubitor)
Siberian Jay (Perisoreus infaustus)
Eurasian Magpie (Pica pica)
Western Jackdaw (Coloeus monedula)
Hooded Crow (Corvus cornix)
Common Raven (Corvus corax)
Bohemian Waxbill (Bombycilla garrulus)
Willow Tit (Poecile montanus)
Siberian Tit (Poecile cinctus)
Eurasian Blue Tit (Cyanistes caeruleus)
Great Tit (Parus major)
Eurasian Skylark (Alauda arvensis)
Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris)
Sand Martin (Riparia riparia)
Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica)
Western House Martin (Delichon urbicum)
Common Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus collybita)
Willow Warbler (Phylloscopus trochilus)
Wood Warbler (Phylloscopus sibilatrix)
Sedge Warbler (Acrocephalus schoenobaenus)
Garden Warbler (Sylvia borin)
Common Whitethroat (Curruca communis)
Lesser Whitethroat (Curruca curruca)
Goldcrest (Regulus regulus)
Eurasian Wren (Troglodytes troglodytes)
Eurasian Treecreeper (Certhia familiaris)
Common Starling (Sturnus vulgaris)
Fieldfare (Turdus pilaris)
Song Thrush (Turdus philomelos)
Eurasian Redwing (Turdus iliacus)
Mistle Thrush (Turdus viscivorus)
Eurasian Blackbird (Turdus merula)
Eurasian Robin (Erithacus rubecula) —————- heard only
Overview: Our 5th tour to Extremadura started with extremely low temperatures of only 3ºC in the 2nd morning of the trip. After a long week of massive rains and low temperatures migration was low, and as the temperatures recovered some summer visitors only started to show out in the tour at the end of our week there. Still, we managed to connect with most of them, including Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush and some of the very firsts European Rollers of the season. As always, the most celebrated moments of the tour were our visit to Monfragüe National Park and the good variety of birds in all the plains we visited, including the endangered Little Bustard.
Please mind all rights reserved in all images in this trip report.
Day 1. Meet and greet in an accommodation nearby the Madrid International Airport before starting moving out of the city. This first day we will explore some wetlands South of the city. It is a sunny morning and we cross the light traffic around the city to arrive to the extensive farmlands South of Madrid. Along the road we can see the first of many Spotless Starlings and Black Kites along with a Red Kite and Common Kestrels.
Our first stop is devoted to explore one of the many wetlands in the area known as “La Mancha Húmeda”. It is still sunny, but it is already a bit windy. From a first platform we have close views on some drake White-headed Ducks along with Red-crested Pochard, the commoner Common Pochard, Northern Shoveler and Black-necked Grebes showing a full nesting plomage. A wonderful Purple Heron crossed the lagoon offering great views to the group while a rather distant Savi’s Warbler was singing far away from us, well covered by the rank vegetation. Several Greater Flamingoes are present in the lagoon and an accurate counting on the White-headed Ducks reveals 34+ birds there. Marsh Harriers are really common, and the air is full of their displays and pursuits.
A short walk around reveals Linnet and European Serin but also the first Zitting Cisticola for the group along with Sand Martin and rather distant Eurasian Sparrowhawk and Booted Eagle. From the reeds around us emerges a Western Swamphen just to land a hundred metres further in the reeds. In the way back the our vehicle, we had 50+ Black Kites still migrating North, several White Storks and a male Montagu’s Harrier flying high up in the sky.
From this wetland we just drove some miles inside the farming. It was already midday but the weather was comfortable. Checking some fields we got nice views on a migratory Northern Wheatear, Little Ringed Plovers, Crested Larks, a very distant Spanish Imperial Eagle and a really obliging Eurasian Hoopoe surrounded by the songs of many Calandra Larks and 1 Common Quail.
A bit beyond, the first European Roller of the trip was waiting for us in a wire by the road, and a bit beyond a lovely flock of Lesser Kestrels provided us with excellent views as they were hunting against the wind with the nice adding of a low Cinereous Vulture flying over the group as a wonderful first approach to this magnificent bird.
After a wonderful lunch, we drove West to check a second lagoon. By the time we arrived the weather had changed and a strong wind was blowing in the area. We were unable to see any reed living passerines, and a distant Water Pipit and a Great Reed Warbler singing but only breefly showing were the only addings from that side. Still, we got close views on several White-headed Ducks, 12 Whiskered Terns, an equal number of Black-necked Grebes and a juvenile Lesser Black-backed Gull. Here we also got a good number of Red-crested Pochards, Greylag Geese, 6 Black-winged Stilts, Green & Common Sandpipers and 8 Little Ringed Plovers.
Short after living, the rain arrived, and the transfer to our accommodation had multiple showers with a really strong wind.
White-headed Duck (Oyxura leucocephala) from our visit to La Mancha Húmeda. Image by Peter Sutton.Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus roseus). Image by Peter Sutton.Splendid Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea). Image by Peter Sutton.Zitting Cisticola (Cisticola juncidis). Image by Peter Sutton
Day 2. The morning started without wind but with really a very low temperature, and we were only at 4ºC when we did our morning walk around the accommodation. Due to this very temperature, the bird activity was slim. Still, we managed to get really good views on Woodlarks, Woodchat Shrikes and Short-toed Treecreeper. We started moving to the extensive plains around Trujillo, enjoying the first Spanish (formerly Azure-winged) Magpie of the trip, perching along in the fences along the road and flying across.
From our accommodation we covered the short distance to the plains around Trujillo, where we arrived about 9:30am. And we had a wonderful arrival, in the way of a majestic Great Bustard flying right in front of van, crossing the lane and disappearing in the endless grasslands. Our first stop in the was also memorable; a flock of 9 Great Bustards were moving in the fields, with 1 male in full display (the neck down on the back, the tail up and all the white, short feathers erected with the bird becoming a huge snowball moving up and down in the pastures.
Several Calandra Larks and Corn Buntings were singing in the skies or from the fences, and in the sky we counted several Black & Griffon Vultures, but also Booted Eagles and Lesser Kestrels. A bit of scan produced 2 Montagu’s Harriers patrolling the fields, but our attention was soon required again away from the Harriers, since a flock of Pin-tailed Sandgrouses was calling in the sky. Soon, we found 5 birds fastly moving, and we could follow them, providing a good although distant sight. Later, a second flock of 10 more Pin-tailed Sandgrouses was seen flying around. Again, far away.
Back to the woodlands, with Bee-eaters and Woodchat Shrikes all along the way, we had a shortwalk into proper habitat. Not many small birds but the first views of the trip on Sardinian Warbler. Several Spanish Sparrows were moving around, but the proved more difficult to locate here than in other areas around. In the sky, Booted Eagle and Black Kite were again in the move, but here we also got the first Short-toed Eagle of the trip, a gorgeous Black Stork that appeared quite close to us, and the first Spanish Imperial Eagle of the trip. In this case, probably an incomplete adult still showing some young feathers both in the center of the tail and in the inner primaries.
After a gentle stop to enjoy some sandwiches in a small community in the middle of the plains, we kept going with our exploration. The plains were full of Corn Buntings and Zitting Cisticolas, but also Calandra Larks, Black Vultures and we had a number of stops to enjoy Short-toed Snake Eagle and up to 3 Montagu’s Harriers in different places.
The very last stop of the day was devoted to the famous Arrocampo reservoir. Here we had a short walk along the reedbeds. We soon had both Little Egrets & Great White Egrets in this lovely wetland. Some Common Reed Warblers were singing in the place, and got some views on them as they were chasing each other in the reeds. In our way we had close views on European Stonechats, Zitting Cisticolas, Cetti’s Warblers and Western Cattle Egrets. Around one of the observation towers, a large colony of Purple Herons was established, and we counted 19 of them getting in and out or standing in the top of the reeds. Here, a gorgeous Savi’s Warbler was singing not far away from us, and an accurate scan soon revealed this scarce warbler singing from the top of reeds, allowing long and great scope views to all tour participants. Here we also had Western Swamphen, 3 distant Gull-billed Terns flying over the lagoon and calling Water Rail.
When coming back to our van we still had time to time for lovely views on a male Little Bittern plus good views on both Pallid & Alpine Swifts, and the mild afternoon light allowed us to compare shapes and coloration details. At last, 3 Eurasian Spoonbills flew above us, as a final say! From here, we just drove the short distance to our accommodation to enjoy some rest and dinner.
Woodlark (Lullula arborea) around our accommodation. Image by Peter SuttonWoodchat Shrike (Lanius senator) around our accommodation. Image by Peter Sutton.Great Bustard (Otis tarda) doing a pass by our van. Image by tour leader Carles Oliver.One of the many Black (or Cinereous) Vultures of the day. Image by Peter Sutton.European Bee-eater, just arrived from Africa! Image by Peter Sutton.The first Spanish Imperial Eagle was this interesting 4th or 5th year. Image by Peter Sutton.Savi’s Warbler (Locustella luscinioides). Image by Peter Sutton.Flying Little Bittern (Ixobrychus minutus) at Arrocampo. Image by tour participant Gill Griffiths.During the trip we got to the amazing blossom of the very common French Lavender (Lavandula pedunculata).
Day 3. After breakfast, we headed to the wonderful Gredos Mountains, but prior arriving to those escarpments we had a shortstop in a nice dehesa woodland. There we walk through a carpet of wildflowers and surrounded by singing Nightingales and perched Woodchat Shrikes. The area is full of broken poplars and it didn’t take long before we got nice but short views on a Eurasian Wryneck. A couple of Booted Eagles were seen along with Spanish Sparrows, the first views of Azure-winged Magpie for the trip and a pair of Common Rock Sparrows. A distant view on an Iberian Grey Shrike completed a good list before driving up to the mountains.
The morning was sunny and definately warmer than the previous day. By the time we arrived to the mountain pass it was a very pleasant temperature and we fastly got really good looks on Rock Buntings but also Dunnock and a fast moving Firecrest. Eurasian Griffon and Cinereous Vultures were both seen in the sky and our short walk up the hill allow us to connect with the first Black Redstarts of the trip but also with epic views on a wonderful Western Subalpine Warbler, and a Dartford Warbler moving also really close to us. The walk was complemented with nice views on 2 Spanish Ibexes and 1 really distant Blue Rock Thrush flycatching in the very top of the rocky slope. In our way down the slope we also got views in a flying Northern Wheatear and in an impressive female Peregrine Falcon flying really low above the slopes.
From this lovely mountain pass we drove inside the pinewoods, with some Iberian Grey Shrikes here and there in the “piornal” bush land. The pinewoods here host a nice selection of birds, and our next stop allowed us to see some of them. But first, we had some time to go through our picnic lunches while enjoying some mountain sun, or having a shortwalk around.
Once lunched, we invested some time to go through the birds living in the woods. Both Coal & Crested Tits were evident around, as were Common Chaffinch, Serin and Blackcap. Great Spotted Woodpecker and Short-toed Treecreeper were a bit more difficult to see. A pair of Citril Finches flew around us, and it took us a good while before we could put our eyes on them. But after some minutes of search a nice pair went down to the grass and fed for some time not far away from us. Up in the trees, a group of young Crossbills were calling, but it was impossible to locate them for the group..
Back to the mountain pass, we had a shortstop to enjoy a pass by Short-toed Eagle with a hanging snake from its peak, while some in the group had a female Montagu’s Harrier crossing the pass in her way North.
Sawfly Orchid (Ophrys tenthredinifera) during one of our strolls.Subalpine Warbler. Image by Peter Sutton.Citril Finches made us work hard this time. Image by Peter Sutton.Eurasian Crag Martin. Image by Peter Sutton.Rock Buntings provided good looks at Gredos. Image by Peter Sutton.Short-toed Snake Eagle. Image by Peter Sutton.Spanish Festoon (Zerynthia rumina). Image by tour participant Rhodie Blythe.
To end the day, we had a couple of stops in the wonderful Tietar Valley, immediately South of Gredos Mountains. At the first stop we got nice views on Iberian Grey & Woodchat Shrikes. Some Black Vultures were flying in the distance but soon we were distracted by a wonderful Black-winged Kite that went up to the skies to push out a Black Kite. It looks like this bird was holding a territory in the area, and during the next minutes we enjoyed wonderful views on the bird as it was flying above, including some display! The Kite finally got down the skies to stop in the top of tree. During the next minutes it remained there, providing great scope views, but slowly moving into the branches, and we realised that its nest must be in that same tree.
We didn’t want to disturb the bird, so we decided to go to explore a nice stream close by. The plan was to come back again to the place of the Black-winged Kite later, hoping for closer views. The stream, right at the end of a small reservoir had become a slow moving river thanks to the generous rains of the last days. Here, we enjoyed soon lovely views on a number of Common Nightingales singing in lovely afternoon light, and the walk was complemented with nice views on a dark form Booted Eagle feeding on a prey up in the trees. Common Kingfisher, Cetti’s Warbler and Sardinian Warblers were also noted here.
90 minutes later the Black-winged Kite place was still on the same tree and after some extra views we decided to go back to our accommodation to enjoy some fun while having dinner.
Black-winged Kite (Elanus caeruleus) displaying on its territory. Image by Peter Sutton.Iberian Grey Shrike. Image by Peter Sutton.
Day 4. This morning we went to explore the endless ondulate landscape of wonderful grasslands called La Serena. After having breakfast we transfer South with some flocks Black-winged Stilt flocks flying beside the highway in the paddyfields North of Merida. This looked like a very promising spot we had to time for it at the end.
After some delay (thanks to Google maps), we arrived to the plains, and only 2 minutes after arriving we were having a nice flock of Pin-tailed Sandgrouses on the ground, only 50 metres away from the van. These were the closest Sandgrouses I ever had in Extremadura, and all enjoyed good views on the birds. They were so quiet that I was tempted to set up the scope, but the flew away..
From here we drove in the plains, with several Lesser Kestrels all the way down and a number of Calandra Larks also singing here and there. Northern Wheatears could be also seen in the fences and wires; a good sign that the migration was restarting after a very cold week! Soon after, a wonderful Cinereous Vulture provided great views on the ground along with Griffons. Some of the Griffons with their necks and heads still dirty after scavenger a carrion.
The next stop was made in a typical place for Little Bustard. This bird was extremely common all around the grasslands in Extremadura, but now their numbers have decreased dramatically and you can count yourself lucky if you see any of them during the spring. And we got one male.
It was singing really far away. A Montagu’s Harrier distracted us while scanning in the search of the male Little Bustard. It took us some time but finally Ann got the bird singing half a mile away from us, in a lovely flowered hill. We all got nice scope views before the bird flew to the right, beyond a tiny elevation. We still wait a good quarter, and the bird only appeared briefly in the distance before walking down the hill, losing his shape in the ocean of flowers..
We kept exploring this wonderful plains. Our second stop, near to a colony of Lesser Kestrels, produced several of them but also 2 Red-billed Choughs, showy Little Owls, and a calling Great Spotted Cuckoo that we could not find. Some miles later we had a final morning stop. Here, surrounded by Calandra Larks, we got nice views on two Montagu’s Harrier but also Booted Eagle, and 1 very distant Golden Eagle that was sitting on a small rocky outcrop.
From here, we drove up to one of the rocky spines crossing La Serena. We had arranged a nice meal in a wonderful restaurant nearby, and we only got half an hour to explore the castle and around. It was enough.
We didn’t have to walk for long before Sean found a wonderful male Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush at the base of the escarpment. The bird flew off fast, but the views were excellent, but short! Alpine Swifts were flying low and 1 Egyptian Vulture was crossing the sky along with them, only a fraction of time after we found a nice Black Wheatear male at the top of the cliffs. This was a nice and close view, but we were distracted again by a shape in the sky: a Golden Eagle! Back to the rocks, a pair of Black Redstarts were a nice entertainment while waiting for the Black Wheatear to reappear. Instead, we got scope views on a Blue Rock Thrush singing from a distant tip of the cliffs. At last, we got long views on the Black Wheatear, that was singing at times, before going down to enjoy a fabulous lunch!
After lunch, we drove to Merida to try some urban birding. Firstly we walk some parks along the Tagus. Here we had good views on Common Redstart and Pied Flycatcher, and also intimate views on a wonderful female Lesser Spotted Woodpecker that was feeding only a few meters away from us! Glossy Ibises and Cattle Egrets were all the time flying above us from their nesting colonies at the river, and both Little Egret and Black-crowned Night Herons were also noted. Once on the Roman bridge crossing the Tagus, we got great views on Penduline Tit but also a male Little Bittern, 2 Western Swamphens and 2 Common Sandpipers while Pallid & Alpine Swifts were passing around us. Back to our vehicle, 3 nice Spoonbills appeared in the sky to end the stroll. Even if the original plan was to explore some wetlands, this option was not bad at all!
From here, we just drove back to our accommodation.
Cinereous (rigth) & 2 Griffon Vultures resting at La Serena plains. Image by Peter Sutton. Montagu’s Harrier (Circus pygargus). Image by Peter Sutton.Black Wheatear right before lunch. Image by Peter Sutton.In our short walk in Merida we got great views on Lesser Spotted Woodpecker. Image by Peter Sutton.Pernduline Tit. Image by Peter Sutton.
Day 5. Monfragües % Llanos de Cáceres.Early morning start to go and explore some of the best known birding sites in Extremadura. Monfragüe is an extensive National Park protecting some really well preserved habitats including scrublands, oak forests and small gorges. Being Extremadura mostly plain or ondulate, the Griffon Vulture population and the slim Egyptian Vulture population living in the area concentrates in the small rocky outcrops within the park and in other selected places.
But before going into Monfragüe we had some time to enjoy a small spot of Arrocampo and the extensive debesas around it. In the wetlands we had short views on a Western Swamphen but also migratory Sedge Warbler, Whinchat and some other goodies including a Savi’s Warbler singing close (but never seen), Marsh Harriers and lovely Bee-eaters flying around. From here we transferred to park, with several Iberian Magpies, Hoopoes, Woodchat Shrikes and Woodlarks along the way, but also Common Cuckoo, 2 Rock Sparrows and the only 2 Cirl Buntings of the whole tour!
At the first stop inside the National Park we enjoyed lovely views on Griffons and Black Vultures but also other interesting species including 2 Egyptian Vultures, Subalpine Warbler, scopes views on both Blue Rock Thrush & Rock Bunting and 2 Hawfinches passing over. Still, the very best bird was a wonderful Spanish Imperial Eagle soaring above our heads for long. The full adults of this species always surprise me as they look to have a thin, Harrier-like tail. Proportionally, they always look to me more delicate than other species of eagles, and even far more delicate than young Spanish Imperial Eagles.
From here, we drove through the nice slopes with a couple of productive stops. The first, to pick up a singing Western Orphean Warbler than provided excellent views to the group, and the second to have brief views on one of the just arrived Western Black-eared Wheatears and Subalpine Warbler.
A comfort stop allowed Ann to spot a wonderful Giant Peacock Moth (Saturnia pyri) in a window! From here we drove to the famous “Salto del gitano”, where we spent some time monitoring the skies. Many things were to see in here, including 2 nesting pairs of Black Storks that soared around us, providing great looks to everyone. Both Crag Martins and Red-rumped Swallows were also flying around us. One Spanish Eagle & Egyptian Vultures were also seen along with the common Griffons, and a Peregrine Falcon put itself out of the cliffs for our enjoyment. Blue Rock Thrush & Rock Buntings were singing for long in wonderful lights, the first providing really good photo chances!
Monfragües and the habitat around was full of Booted Eagle. Image by Peter Sutton.One of the many Black Storks moving around. Image by Peter Sutton.Western Orphean Warbler in Monfragüe. Image by Peter Sutton.One of the full adults Spanish Imperial Eagles that we saw in Monfragüe. Image by Peter Sutton.Blue Rock Thrush at El Salto del Gitano. Image by Peter Sutton.European Serin by Peter Sutton.Red-rumped Swallow flying around a bridge. Image by Peter Sutton.Giant Peacock Moth, a great pick up! Image by tour leader Carles OliverTongue-orchid (Serapias lingua) was blossoming around our accommodation.
From Monfragüe we drove South in the way to Càceres, with small flocks of Bee-eaters and Spanish Sparrows all along the way. North of Caceres there are also large extensions of plains. Here we got excellent views on a number of Greater Short-toed Larks but also Thekla’s & Calandra Larks. A minimum of 6 Great Bustards were seen in different stops, and the group celebrated the 3 Rollers in the area that, even if distant, they offered great views. Soaring in the sky, we had a number of White Storks but also small flocks of Black-headed Gulls, Black Vultures, 2 Booted Eagles and a distant Spanish Imperial Eagle. To end the day, we had a stop at Trujillo itself, where we had great views on the colony of Lesser Kestrels at the outskirts of the town.
Thekla’s Lark (Galerida theklae). Image by Peter SuttonGreater Short-toed Lark (Calandrella brachydactyla). Image by Peter Sutton.Lesser Kestrel in one of the colonies around Trujillo.
Day 6. Very last morning of the trip before transferring to Madrid. It is another sunny, bright day with no clouds, neither wind. Our first goal is to check the area where we found a Black-winged Kite a couple of days ago and try to get better views. But we are stopped in the way when a Great Spotted Cuckoo passes right in front of or van. We all jumped out and looked for the bird. It didn’t take long before we contact with the Great Spotted Cuckoo. The area is full of Azure-winged Magpies, and there are actually not one but two Great Spotted Cuckoos. We enjoyed 10 minutes of sighting on the birds, that are actually trying to parasite the Magpies. Several persecutions are seen, with the Magpies trying all the time to disturb the Cuckoos. Here we also see a pair of Common Cuckoo, and all the action goes on in a tiny patch of pines (here the vegetation is dominated by Oaks). A small flock of Bee-eaters is also present and a distant Eurasian Golden Oriole is heard calling in the distance. The views on the Cuckoos are long while it is perched in the pines, and we are all surprised to see the birds mating while the Magpies try to pull them out.
Here we also tried to find the Oriole (first of the year!), but instead we got a flying Lesser Spotted Woodpecker and a singing Willow Warbler.
Once arrived to the Black-winged Kite place, we got hunting but also resting in different tree along the valley, but only when we were leaving is when we got close views on the bird as it was closed to the road. From here we moved South ready to explore our last plains before driving back to Madrid. In the way, another stop was made to see an European Turtle Dove sitting in the wires with both Booted Eagle and Cinereous Vulture circling in the sky at close range.
The morning had gone fast, and we only had one hour the explore near Talavera before going for lunch. But in the plains, one hour is plenty of time when being in the proper patch of habitat!
Once in the plains, we got distant views on Griffons Vultures and some Kites. Moving around the area, it didn’t take long before we got close views on Great Bustards. As always, here you get closer views than in Extremadura. We got 8 individuals that were resting in the fields when we arrived. At the same a time, a very close Cinereous Vulture came to say hi to the group, providing excellent views to all of us. It was not alone, since we also got wonderful views on a young Spanish Imperial Eagle right before a distant Collared Pratincole marked the end of the trip.
Happy with this very successful morning, we just went to enjoy a nice lunch before transferring back to Madrid.
Iberian Magpies looked like less common than in previous years. Image by tour leader Carles OliverFlying Great Spotted Cuckoo. Image by tour leader Carles Oliver.Black-winged Kite scaping the photo from beside the van… Image by tour leader Carles Oliver.Best views on Black Vulture came from the impressive landscapes around Talavera. Habitats sadly overlooked. Image by Peter Sutton.Best views on Spanish Imperial Eagle were made in drylands around Talavera. Image by Carles OliverGreat Spotted Cuckoo by Peter Sutton.Great Bustard in the midday sunshine. Image by Peter Sutton.
Totes les imatges en aquesta crònica de viatge són obra d’en Joan Barat a menys no s’especifiqui el contrari. Tots els drets estan reservat / All images in this trip report by tour participant Joan Barat unless otherwise specified. All rights reserved.
Resum: Segon tour ornitològic a la província del Western Cape, amb tota la experiència acumulada del nostre primer tour. En aquesta ocasió cal destacar una molt bona diversitat d’Anàtides i d’altres espècies de zones humida. Sembla que la relativa sequera que hi havia a la zona va fer que moltes petites zones humides fossin seques, concentrant les aus en les grans zones humides costaneres. La sortida pelàgica, una experiència gairebé única, va proporcionar una llista més que destacable i sempre és un moment excitant el passar a tocar del Cap de Bona Esparança escortat per estols de pingüins africans i mascarells del Cap per adentrar-se a l’Oceà, a on esperen els albatros i els petrells gegants…
A terra, el tour va aconseguir observacions fantàstiques d’espècies tant destacables com arpella negra o sisó del Cap, però els moments viscuts a tocar d’una parella de saltarroques del Cap van ser, potser, els més intensos. Només els que han provat de trobar aquests esquerps animals saben de la dificultat de connectar amb aquesta espècie quasi llegendària…
Sud-àfrica és la regió d’Àfrica amb major nombre d’espècies endèmiques en part per l’exclusivitat dels hàbitats que allà es troben, ambients àrids, els fynbos i karoo , tots ells els varen poder visitar, observant la majoria d’especialitats a més en l’època més espectacular amb el màxim de floració per a moltes espècies vegetals, tot i no ser un any especialment humit. Això encara es manifesta més amb les diverses visites als majestuosos parcs botànics de la zona on hi ha una gran diversitat d’espècies d’ocells.
El resultat ens reafirma en que el Western Cape és un lloc de visita obligada en aquestes dates per qualsevol ornitòleg interessat en l’ornitofauna africana i les aus pelàgiques.
Sisó negre meridional / Southern Black Korhaan (Afrotis afra)
Abstract: Second tour to Cape Town, with all the experience acquired from the first tour. This tour enjoyed a wonderful weather all the week long, and very good densities of waterfowl. The province was in the middle of a short drought, and this favoured the ducks and other waterfowl to concentrate along the major coastal wetlands. The offshore, an unique experience, ended with a great list. It is always a formidable moment to overpass the Good Hope Cape escorted by dozens of African Penguins, Cormorants different species and Cape Gannets, while in the open Ocean a good array of Albatrosses and Giant Petrels are awaiting..
On land, our group enjoyed great views on 40+ endemics or near-endemics, being especially great those on Southern Black Korhaan, Blue Crane, Cape Siskin, Black Harrier, Agulhas Long-billed Lark, the striking Orange-breasted Sunbird, the magnificent Cape Sugarbird ,and especially ,the enigmatic and often difficult to find Cape Rockjumper.
Once more, we were delighted by the blossom in Western Cape. Here, a gorgeous variety of unique flora was waiting for us. Both fynbos (mediterranean style scrubland) and karoo (desert-like areas) were full of wonderful proteas and aloes! An spectacle by its own not only in the wild, but also in the many and superb Botanical Gardens around.
Dia 1. El grup surt des de l’aeroport de Barcelona i, després d’una escala a Àmsterdam, arribem a Ciutat del Cap poc abans de mitjanit. Al poc temps d’aterrar ens confirmen que la sortida pelàgica, prevista per l’endemà al matí, s’ajorna en previsió de forts vents i onatge sever. No és una eventualitat estranya, tenint el compte la meteorologia complexe de la zona. Naturalment, teníem un plà alternatiu.
Dia 2. Al matí següent, després d’un bon esmorzar, aprofitem per fer una primera passejada a l’entorn de l’hotel on veiem les primeres especialitat com el pardal del Cap, la cuereta del Cap i zosterop del Cap .
Una petita zona humida propera acull grups familiars de fotges banyudes i colònies actives de teixidors social del Cap i emmascarat . Una petita illa es converteix es zona de descans pels petits corbs marins africans, alhora que centenars de gavines de Harlaub, de cap-gris i gavià de Liechstentein . Sortejant el tranquil trànsit de Ciutat del Cap, arribem a un complexe d’aiguamolls al Sud de la ciutat on la densitat i diversitat d’ànecs és impressionant. Hi han centenars de xarxets del Cap , amb Ànec cullerot sud-africà però també ànecs bec-groc, bec-vermell i el més escàs Xibec bru. Als pals dins l’aigua descansen grups de Xatrac reial bec-groc . També hi han grans estols de Flamencs amb més d’una quarantena de Flamencs menuts. Un escanejat dels grups d’ànecs ens permet trobar un Ànec arborí bicolor, una espècie rara a Ciutat del Cap que sembla que enguany ha tingut una inusual irrupció en aquest espai.
Encara sense deixar la ciutat, canviem dràsticament d’hàbitat i visitem el Jardí Botànic de Kirstenbosch, impressionant espai amb una bona representació de les comunitats d’ocells presents als Fynbos. Per la gespa ens sorprenen grups familiars de Francolí del Cap acompanyats de Merla olivàcia i Còssifa del Cap .
Fins a 5 espècies de suimangues aprofiten el gran nombre de flors, acompanyats de Llèpols del Cap . Una parella de Duc africà nidifica en un zona pública i alhora que la femella esta covant els ous de la nova niuada, els joves de l’anterior posta estan en plena emancipació. Acabem la jornada gaudint de l’únic Colom ull groc del viatge.
Cape Teals & Cape Shovelers. Dues espècies força comunes a la província del Western Cape.Xibec bru / Southern Pochard Netta erythrophthalma), una de les espècies més elegants dins del gènere Aythya.La fotxa banyuda / Red-knobbed Coot (Fulica cristata), una espècie habitual a Ciutat del Cap.Flamenc nan / Lesser Flamingo (Phoeniconaias minor) en volFredeguga armada / Blacksmith Lapwing (Vanellus armata)Batis del Cap / Cape Batis (Batis capensis)Duc africà / Spotted Eagle Owl (Bubo africanus), a common species around the city.Zosterops del Cap / Cape White-eye (Zosterops virens)Botxí fiscal meridional / Southern Fiscal (Lanius collaris) Suimange d’acer / Southern Double-collared Sunbird (Cynniris chalybeus) Còssifa del Cap / Cape Robin Chat (Cossipha caffra)
Dia 3. Confirmat que podrem fer un dels millors moments del tour, la sortida pelàgica!! Però comencem amb un ensurt ja que el nostres hotel està encerclat per la marató de Cape Town que es celebra aquell mateix dia. Afortunadament vàrem sortir amb molta antelació i finalment vàrem trobar la sortida cap al sud. Entre tant de temps d’espera vam detectar un pinsà comú, espècie introduïda pels britànics. Desprès de les corresponents explicacions pugem a la barca, al propi port es veuen 3 espècies de corbs marins: el corb marí del Cap, el coronat i el gorja blanc, compartint espai amb garses de mar negres africanes. Abans de sortir d’una badia amb la mar ben plana, passem prop de roques on es veuen ossos marins Afro-australians i una petita colònia de corbs marins d’ull groc. A l’aigua hi ha petits grups de pingüins del Cap pescant activament. Una vegada passat l’espectacular Cap de Bona Esperança veiem barques locals pescant barracudes i les primeres aus pelàgiques, en concret ràpides baldrigues de barbeta blanca, estols d’adults de mascarells del Cap i un petit estol de gavinetes de cua-forcada. Arribats a mar obert no es fa esperar el 1er albatros, en concret un parell d’albatros tímids. També ens acompanyen paràsits subantàrtics intentant piratejar els grups de gavines i xatracs.
A partir d’aquí l’objectiu es intentar detectar els gran vaixells pesquers que treballen per la zona, on estols de centenars d’aus marines aprofiten els descart de la pesquera. La presencia de grups d’Albatros, Baldrigues, petrells…ens confirmen que ens estem apropant a un d’ells. Un bon nombre de baldrigues grises i cap-negres acompanyen la barca a curta distancia. També comencen a aparèixer els 1ers ocells de tempesta de Wilson i Europeus. Als Albatros tímids se li sumen un bon nombre d’albatros cellanegre, bec-groc Atlantic i del Pacífic. Els Petrells gegants, tant el del Nord com el del Sud fan varies incursions en els estols d’aus, però sens dubte un dels ocells més espectaculars de la sortida van ser els diversos petrell del Cap.
Bank & Cape Cormorants (PhalacrocoraxPetrell del Cap / Cape Petrel Baldriga capnegre / Great Shearwater (Puffinus gravis)Mascarell del Cap / Cape Gannet (Morus capensis)Baldriga cendrosa / Sooty Shearwater (Puffinus griseus)Albatros tímid / Shy Albatross (Thalassarche cauta). Imatge del tour líder Sergi Sales.White-chinned Petrel
Desprès de menjar uns excel·lents sandvitxos i fer les darreres fotografies, tornem cap a port, amb la sorpresa final del salt d’una Iubarta a curtíssima distancia de l’embarcació. Una vegada desembarcats una confiada Llúdriga del Cap fa les delícies dels observadors.
Aprofitem la curta distancia per visitar la colònia de Pingüins on també trobem els 1ers ocells ratolins comuns, prinia del Karoo i suimanga d’acer. La darrera aturada d’aquest tant excitant dia la fem a uns espectaculars turons des d’on tenim grans vistes de Ciutat del Cap i veiem els 1ers còlits familiars del tour.
Llúdria del Cap / Cape Clowless Otter (Aonyx capensis) passejant-se per les barques de pesca. Imatge del tour líder Sergi Sales.Pingüí africà / African Penguin Còlit familiar / Familiar Chat
Dia 4 . Durant aquesta assoleiada jornada, l’objectiu prioritari va ser el saltaroques del Cap, ocell endèmic i emblemàtic de la zona. Els saltaroques són ocells rupícoles força peculiars. Només existeixen dues espècies en aquest gènere, totes dues endèmiques de Sud-àfrica i que viuen en vessants pedregossos amb més o menys cobertura vegetal. El matí ventós i la coincidència amb varis grups d’ornitòlegs que ens anem trobant sense que hagin pogut trobar-ne cap ens fa témer el pitjor, però finalment vam aconseguir el premi a la perseverança quan una parella d’aquest vistós ocell apareix ben a prop del camí recollint material per fer el niu. L’observació va ser a plaer i, a molt curta distància, amb el mascle sovint atansant-se a només 3 o 4 metres de distància.
Tot i el vent aquesta localització va tornar a ser esplèndida i vàrem anar sumant espècies a la llista destacant-ne el corb becgròs de clatell blanc, la suimanga de pit taronja o el sit del Cap.
Saltarroques del Cap / Cape Rockjumper (Chaetops frenatus) female. Saltarroques del Cap / Cape Rockjumper (Chaetos frenatus) male. A gorgeous and often elusive bird!Sit del Cap / Cape Bunting (Emberiza capensis)Gafarró del Cap / Cape Canary (Serinus canicollis)
Més arrecerats vàrem visitar un petit jardí botànic però en el qual hi havien una gran quantitat i diversitat d’ocells. Bones observacions de batis del Cap, papamosques fosc i fiscal, gafarró gris i estrilda de galta negra i els espectaculars monarques del paradís africà.
A la tarda petit trànsfer fins al West Coast National Park canviant de paisatges mentre travessem grans extensions amb bones densitat de rapinyaires i alàudids. Una espectacular òliba ens va acomiadar la jornada.
Dia 4. Des de la pròpia porta de l’hospedatge podem veure una zona inundada ben plena de limícols, gavines i xatracs. Entre ells corriols front-blanc i pàl-lid. Conduint per les pistes ens creuen els 1ers francolins jugulars, les 3 espècies d’ocells ratolí: l’ocell ratolí cara roig, el comú i el de dors blanc. El parc es visita per una xarxa de pistes en molt bon estat on no es pot córrer entre d’altres coses per evitar atropellaments de fauna. Magnífics estruços sembla que ens donen la benvinguda al parc. Travessant la zona de Fynbos veiem espècies com l’oreneta perlada, cistícola d’esquena grisa, apalis de collar, terrerola dorsigrisa o la cogullada becgrossa . A les zones amb arbres es deixen veure el gladiador xiulador, la mallerenga bruna i l’estornell bicolor. Increïbles arpelles negres rastregen la zona a baixa alçada però sense dubte el moment més màgic el generen les parades nupcials dels mascles del sisó negre meridional, alguns d’ells observats a distàncies ridículament curtes.
Arpella negra / Black Harrier (Circus maurus), a superb bird of prey!Sisó negre meridional / Southern Black Korhaan Prínia del Karoo / Karoo Prinia (Prinia flavicans)Terrerola de cap rogenc / Red-capped Lark (Calandrella cinerea)Suimanga malaquita / Malachite Sunbird (Nectarinia famosa)Estruç comuna / Common Ostrich (Struthio camelis)Cogullada bec-grossa / Large-billed Lark (Galerida magnirostris)Puput africana / African Hoopoe (Upupa africana)Bar-throated Apalis (Apalis thoracica)
Els Damaliscs es comencen a fer presents però una de les grans sorpreses va ser una rata-talp del Cap creuant amb total tranquil·litat la pista i construint en pocs minuts un cau a la sorra tot ajudants de la seva peculiar cua. Poc després ens trobem un espectacular escurçó bufador, una de les sorpreses més benvingudes del tour!
Posteriorment ens desplacem cap a l’Est creuant immenses extensions de cereal amb un bon ventall de basses on hi ha estols gegants d’oques egípcies i d’Esperons junts amb les primeres grues del Paradís i corriol de triple collar africà. Augmentem la llista d’alàudids sumant la terrerola de cap rogenc i confiats còlits variables.
Dia 5
Des d’un luxós allotjament iniciem una nova jornada per visitar un hàbitat nou, el “karoo”, zones semiàrides per un gran nombre d´endemismes i espècies interessants. Una aturada prop del riu aporta bones observacions d’ànec negre africà, camperol del cap i varies espècies d´orenetes. Fem una breu aturada en zones de rocalloses per cerca amb èxit merla roquera del Cap, gafarró totta i observacions increïblement bones de estrilda de galta negra .
Posteriorment comencem la ruta que ens endinsa cap les zones de karoo on a pesar del vent i calor veiem espècies tant interessants com la prínia del karoo (karoo prinia), còlit formiguer muntanyenc (Mountain wheater), la prínia de Namaqua (Namaqua warbler) i papamosques follet (Fairy flycatcher).
Gafarró Totta / Cape Siskin (Crithagra totta)Merla roquera del Cap / Cape Rock Thrush (Monticola rupestris)Francolí jugular / Grey-winged Francolin (Scleroptila afra)
Cada vegada l’ambient és més sec i amb vegetació més baixa, on van sortint les diverses especialitats de l’espai: còlit alafalçat, còlit del karoo, còlit tractrac, còlit formiguer meriodinal i la prínia cararoja i un bon ventall d’alàudids com: l’alosa d’esperons, l’alosa becllarga de Namaqua , la cogullada bec-grossa i l’alosa del karoo . En un dels arbres veiem 3 impressionants astors cantaires pàl·lids i una majestuós àguila marcial. Acabem una gran jornada amb vistes d’una parella de ducs africans.
Dia 6
El primer objectiu del dia és visitar unes petites zones humides molt interessants per la quantitat i diversitat d’espècies que es poden observar. Dins el bon ventall d’ànec destaquen grups de xarxets hotentots i ànecs arboris carablancs. Als canyissars estan en plena activitat de construcció de nius els teixidors i als arbres propers ens sorprèn la presencia d’un astor blanc i negre .
Comencem el transit cap el proper espai a visitar, al Parc Nacional de Bontebok, famós no només per la diversitat d’ocells sinó que també per la població del mamífer que li dóna nom, alhora que manté una petita població de zebra de muntanya. En les primeres visualitzacions des dels punts d’observació ja veiem els primers piocs de Denham. Som a les dates en les que els mascles estan exhibint-se als leks de cria, i podem observar en directe la lenta aproximació d’una femella generant un augment de l’excitació i lluïment del mascle.
Un agradable pic-nic al marge del riu en permet fer l’única observació del viatge d’alció capbrú i queleas de bec vermell. Les concentracions d’esparver d’espatlles negres soón elevades, guadint d’excel·lent observacions d’aquests rapinyaires. Les zones amb arbres i matolls permeten cercar un bon nombre d’ocells entre els que destaquen els sorollosos apalis gorja negres, acabant la jornada amb noves observacions crepusculars de ducs africans.
Pioc de Denham / Denham’s Bustard (Neotis denhami)Xarxet hotentot / Blue-billed Teal (Spatula hottentota)Bisbe vermell meridional / Southern Red Bishop (Euplectes orix)Grua del paradís / Blue Crane (Anthropoides paradiseus)Damalisc / Bontebok (Damaliscus pygargus dorcas). Image by tour leader Sergi SalesZebra de muntanya / Mountain Zebra (Equus zebra). Image by tour leader Sergi SalesBubú rovellat / Southern Boubou (Laniarius ferrugineus)Esparver d’espatlles negres / Black-winged Kite (Elanius caeruleus)Ocell secretari / Secretary Bird (Sagittarius serpentarius)
Dia 7
El camí d’accés des de l’allotjament fins al Reserva De Hoop travessa camps amb gran quantitat d’ocells, amb bones observacions d’alàudids, corriols, grues i fredelugues. Destaquen les bones visualitzacions d’alosa bec-llarga d’Aguhlas, terrerola de capell vermell i corriol pecuari.
Un dels majors atractius d’aquest fantàstic espai natural és la colònia de l’endèmic voltor del cap els quals a pesar de la boira matinera no van tardar en fer acte de presencia. Després de rastrejar les zones boscoses on vàrem detectar espècie com el papamosques fiscal, bulbul verdós costaner, batis del cap o bubú ferruginós, ens apropem a les zones obertes i dunars.
En aquests espais oberts a mes de bones observacions dels impressionants Eland surten especies noves com les piules africanes i llise). Un espectacular escurço bufador va creuar parsimoniosament la pista davant la nostra atònita mirada.
Escurçó bufador / Puff Adder (Bitis arietans). Image by tour leader Sergi Sales
L’arribada al sistema dunar es va convertir en un dels moment màgics del tour, ja es podien veure i escoltar els cops d’aleta de les Iubartes alhora que els bufits de les properes balenes franques.
Però el llarg dia encara ens guardava un altre sorpresa, a una llarga recta s’observa una llarga silueta estesa sobre l’asfalt, després de moments de dubte al apropar-nos descobrim que un caracal estirat al terra menjant un ocell atropellat. Finalment el felí va amargar-se al marge de la carretera d’on durant poc segons va mostrar la seva cara convertint-se en un dels moment inoblidables del viatge.
Alosa bec-llarga d’Agulhas / Agulhas Long-billed Lark (Certhilauda brevides)Astor blanc-i-negre / Black Sparrowhawk (Accipiter melanoleucos)Papamosques fiscal / Fiscal Flycatcher (Sigelus sigens) Voltor del Cap / Cape Vulture (Gyps coprotheres)Cuaenlairat del Karoo / Karoo Scrub Robin (Cercotrichas coryphoeus)
Dia 8
Darrer dia de viatge que es planteja com a darrera possibilitat per poder cercar alguns dels ocells que ens havien fallat o dels que volem obtindre millors observacions. Però sobretot, matí pensat per observar una de les espècies per escasses, el xatrac de Damara. Per veure’l ens desplacem cap a una zona humida litoral on la gran sorpresa va ser la quantitat i diversitat d’espècies que ens van sortir en la carretera d’accés. Estols de grues del paradís amb sisó negre meridional exhibint-se, sumant un falcó llaner cruspint-se una presa al terra i el sempre espectacular secretari. Acabant-t’ho de rematar dos mascles de vídua de cua d’agulla intentant impressionar amb les danses a una discreta femella.
Vídua de cua d’agulla / Pin-tailed Whydah (Vidua macroura)Garsa de mar negrea africana / African Oystercatcher (Haematopus moquini)Tortoreta cuallarga / Namaqua Dove (Oena capensis)Corriol frontblanc / White-fronted Plover (Charadrius marginatus).Falciot cuablanc africà / White-rumped Swift (Apus caffer)
La visita a l’estuari es converteix es una bona oportunitat per anar farcint el checklist del tour amb varies espècies de limícoles entre les que destaca l’observació de dues sisetes cendroses i l’oportunitat de veure simultàniament els corriols grossos, pecuaris i frontblanc.
El rastreig dels grups de gavines i xatracs finalment dona el seu fruit poden observar 4 xatracs de Damara entre xatracs grossos .
Satisfacció per l’enèsim objectiu complert, ara comencem la tornada cap l’aeroport fent aturades a petits zones humides on fem el darrer intent per detectar l’única espècie que se`ns resistia, la malvasia africana, finalment un lluent mascle es va deixar veure per acabar de la millor manera possible un gran tour per la regió de Ciutat del Cap.
El comptatge final va ser de 233 espècies d’ocells vistes, entre elles 46 endèmics i 17 propers a endèmics.
Overview: Our first tour to Eastern South Africa can be defined as a big success. Not only because of the 40+ endemics seen during the trip, with special mention to the extremely scarce Rudd’s Lark. We also scored many sought-after species, including some very tuff birds. Two species of Flufftail were seen, including the very elusive Buff-spotted. The tour enjoyed good weather conditions most of the days, despite an unusually cold episode while transfering from Kruger to Wakkerstroof, with temperatures collapsing as low as only 3ºC. This episode, combining low temperatures and rain, was up to three days long and we noticed dead Bee-eaters and Swallows during our stops. Despite this, the tour excelled in great sights and we also got some interesting mammals, even if we failed to find some top target mammals.
All images in this trip report by tour leader Carles Oliver and Joan Barat. All rights reserved.
Crested Barbet (Trachyphonus vaillantii) to start the report! Image by tour leader Carles Oliver
Day 1. After our commuter flights coming from different countries, all tour participants assembled in Johannesburg, where our local guide was waiting for us. It was a lovely afternoon, and after negotiating the metropolitan traffic, we put our way North in order to explore some interesting spots.
En route, we had some of the common birds in the area, including Long-crested Eagle, Steppe Buzzard, the superb Magpie Shrike, Grey Go-away-bird and some Namaqua Doves in flight. It was a sunny afternoon, and a service stop midway down our destination provided us with the firsts Cape White-eye, Blacksmith Lapwing, Black-winged Kites, Tawny-flanked Prinia and African Palm Swifts of the trip, plus the nice surprise of 2 Horus Swifts flying along with the common Little Swifts. This is a quite scarce bird, and a good adding for the trip!
Once arrived to our first proper birding stop, the sightings came as drops in a rainy day, and soon we enjoyed Blue Waxbill, Greater Sparrow, the tame Kalahari Scrub Robin, African Pipit and several lovely Scaly-feathered Weavers. It took us literally 30 seconds to find the first Short-clawed Lark, an obliging bird that offered excellent photo opportunities. The short grass plain where we found it was full of goodies, including Black-faced Waxbills, several Cape Sparrows, 2 Desert Cisticolas, the first of many Yellow-fronted Canary, Black-chested Prinia and 1 Greater Kestrel. We spent some extra time trying to find the often shy Pink-billed Lark, but we were unlucky, and after some time the Crowned Lapwings around became specially noisy, a sign of the sunset to come. Already moving to our accommodation, we had a fast stop to take a look to the first Familiar Chats and White-browed Sparrow-Weavers of the trip.
Our wonderful accommodation embraced the British colonial heritage with the mistery of a Jurassic Park cottage. What a place! After dinner, a fast check to the varanda produced really good looks into 1 African Wood Owl while a Buff-spotted Flufftail was singing along with the chorus of amphibians in the lake beside the lodge. A wonderful first day!
Short-clawed Lark (Certhilauda chuana), an endemic with a limited range. Image by tour leader Carles OliverArriving at sunset to our very lovely first accommodationAfrican Wood Owl (Strix woodfordii) was next to our accommodation
Day 2. First full day of birding of the trip. It was a sunny, warm morning in the hills around Magoebaskloof. As we headed out of our accommodation, a road stop was mandatory to enjoy some common birds including Cape Robin Chat, Forest Canary, Greater Striped Swallows, Dark-capped Warbler, African Stonechats and Swee Waxbills. It was a sunny morning and soon we were walking under the canopy of one of the few spots where the indigenous forests are still plentiful. Here we enjoyed up to 15 Cape Parrots flying, calling and feeding on some tall tress. Other good birds appearing here included Knysna Turaco, Steppe Buzzard and European Bee-eater. A short walk in the deepest of the jungle produced a very fine selection of forest specialties including Orange Ground Thrush, Narina Trogon, Square-tailed Drongo, and amazing views on Yellow-streaked Babbler along with other good birds such as White Cucckooshrike, Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler, White-starred Robin, Chorister Robin Chat, Barrett’s Warbler and an impressive African Sparrowhawk that was trying to pick up the breakfast in the forest.
The wonderful original habitat in the Magoebaskloof hillsides. Cape Parrot (Poicephalus robustus) showing the typical orange markings of the adult.Dark-capped Warblers (Iduna natalensis)White-starred Robin (Pogonocichla stellata)
After the forest, we visited one of the few spots for Magpie Mannikin in the area. Just arrived, we got the first of many views on Red-faced Cisticola and Black-collared Barbet, as well as Grey-tit Flycatcher and Red-chested & Amethyst Sunbirds. The Mannikins proved to be way more difficult than expected, but our patience was rewarded not only with great views on this superb bird, but also with the very first Cape Vulture of the trip!
Before lunch, we still had a stop in some open lands, where we enjoyed views on the very scarce Blue-spotted Wood Dove. This is a common bird in most of Eastern Africa, but with extremely slim populations in South Africa! Along with this gem, the place produced also the first of many Golden-breasted Buntings, Cardinal Woodpecker, Brown Snake Eagle and White-fronted Bee-eaters. A bridge nearby produced Mountain Wagtail, African Black Duck but, unfortunately, we couldn’t locate any African Finfoot.
After lunch, we went to check to very special nesting sites. In the first stop, a massive nest of African Crowned Eagle was waiting for us in a line of eucalyptus. After some great scope views on the massive eagle on its nest, we covered the short distance to the nesting area of a pair of Bat Hawks. After a bit of scanning, we got the pair of hawks quietly resting on a branch, waiting for the sunset to come. The perfect moment to catch bats!
After this unforgettable sight, we just headed back to the accommodation, where we made a stop to enjoy a bit more of the swamps beside it. Here we got excellent views on a flock of Cape Canaries, but also Cape Grassbird, Levaillant’s Cisticola, Little Rush Warbler, Little Sparrowhawk and a singing Red-chested Cuckoo singing only a few metres away from us.
Blue-spotted Wood-Dove (Turtur afer) is quite a scarcity in South Africa so we were really pleased to contact with this individual.Pin-tailed Wydah (Vidua macroura), always a stunnerThis pair of Bat Hawks (Macheiraphus alcinus) was considered as one of the best birds of the tour
Day 3. Our transfer day to Kruger happened in a misty morning. We woke up with the accommodation surrounded by thig fog. But not all were bad news. We had a small stroll around, covering the meadows down the accommodation, and at some point a Buff-spotted Flufftail started singing. Not a surprise, since during our first overnight we had at least three birds singing here. But this time the bird looked like singing closer. We went down to a place where we had a minimal view on the stream and the rank vegetation around, and then Carmine had a brief view on the bird moving along the tiny stream. Hearts on! We had a couple of really long minutes of wait (including an Orange Ground Thrush to came to drink water) and finally the bird appeared, at the beggining under the cover of a dead branch, but later we got a full view of the bird (and even a chance for a record shot) as the bird walk totaly in the open by crossing a grassy area! What an amazing sight!!
Buff-spotted Flufftail (Sarothrura elegans). We counted extremely lucky to see such a shy species! Image by tour participant Joan Barat.
With our hearts still beating hard for this incredible sight, we came back to the accommodation for a delicious breakfast before living the area in our way to Kruger National Park. As we left, an African Dusky Flycatcher came to the garden to say goodbye to our group. The short transfer to Kruger was not absent of interest. The weather cleared out as soon as living the mountains. Beyond some Southern Black Flycatchers in fences and gardens, the first of many African Haw-Eagle, we had the only one Booted Eagle of the trip, and a wonderful African Pygmy Kingfisher that briefly came to land beside the group as we were checking raptors in the sky.
Once in Kruger, it didn’t take us long to start enjoying the of the common good birds in the area, including lovely views on Crested Barbet, Diederick Cuckoo, Walhberg’s Eagles, White-bellied Sunbird, Blue Waxbill and Sabota Lark. Among the mammals, we got the firsts of many Impalas, Plains Zebras and African Elephant Bush. A fast stop to enjoy our packed lunch added Moking Cliff Chat, a passby Eurasian Golden Oriole and a pair of Kilsgpringers enjoying their rocky outcrop. Once arrived to our camp we also had excellent views on Golden-tailed Woodpecker, Natal Spurfowl, Arrow-marqued Babbler and Grey Go-away-bird to name a few. After a short break in our comfortable huts, we went out again. During a short game drive we got stunning views on Brown-hooded Kingfishers, Double-banded Sandgrouses, Red-crested Koorhan, Grey-rumped Swallow, Temminck’s Courser, amazing views on a Klaas’s Cuckoo display, and several more! Mammals here included firsts Hartebeest of the trip plus a surprising Honey Badger doing its way in through the woodlands. To end the game drive, we stop by a bridge, where we could see the firsts of may Hypopotamus, but also Saddle-billed Stork, Wood Sandpiper, Greater Painted Snipe and also a Bat Hawk that was waiting the first bats to appear around the river.
Back to the camp we prepare ourselves to go dinner, but the day was not done yet, and a crepuscular walk around our camp produced good views on both African Barred Owlet & African Scops Owl plus the very big surprise of a Greater Galago moving in the palm threes and that was really celebrated by the group.
Southern Red-billed Hornbill (Tockus rufirostris), a typical inhabitant of the mopane woodlandsCrested Barbet (Trachyphonus vaillantii), a common views inside Kruger campsitesGreen Woodhoopoe (Phoeniculus purpureus) collecting spide websA pair of Klipspringers (Oreotragus oreotragus) in one rocky outcropSabota Lark (Mirafra sabota), the commonest lark in most parts of Kruger National ParkTemminck’s Courser (Cursorior temminckii)Arrow-marked Babbler (Turdoides jardineii). Image by tour participant Joan Barat.Brown-hooded Kingfisher (Halcyon albiventris)African Barred Owlet (Glaucidium capense)
Day 4. This morning we enjoyed some birding in the camp, including Marico Flycatcher, Olive Bushshrike, Green-capped Camaroptera and Pearl-spotted Owlet before living South. Our transfer was dominated for the same species that the day before, but adding good views on Yellow-billed Hornbill, both Grey-backed & Chestnut-backed Sparrow Larks plus first views in other species including Green Woodhoopoe and fist views on Red-capped Lark and Kittlitz Plover.
A group of Spotted Hyaenas was lying next to the road, and Southern Giraffes were seen later to complement a good list of mammals. This day we had a brunch in one of the many lodges in Kruger, and the lunch overlooking the lake provide us with wonderful views not only of a 4 Elephants enjoying some water games, but also some interesting bird species inluding Mosque Swallow, Yellow-billed Stork, African Spoonbill, Great Spotted Cuckoo and even a Southern Pochard associated with the large flocks of White-faced Whistling Ducks. Large Nile Crocodiles were lying on the banks, but African Jacanas and Little Stints seem not aware of the danger.
The gardens of the lodges also proved to be extremely productive. We got here 6 Willow Warblers, and solid views on Green-winged Pytilias but also got extremelly close Jacobin and Klaas’s Cuckoos, with special mention to a Diederick Cuckoo perched only 2 metres away from us and the African Paradise Flycatchers attending its nest.
The afternoon was windy, and we checked a pair of bridges around our accommodation, adding more views on African Openbills, Saddle-billed Storks, Great White Egrets and Woolly-necked Storks to our day list, but the best of afternoon was the brilliant views on a Giant Kingfisher by the van, and the only one Osprey of the tour!
Red-crested Korhaan (Lophotis ruficrista)Little Bee-eater (Merops pusillus), a common view on the Mopane woodlands. Image by tour participant Joan Barat.White-fronted Bee-eater (Merops bullockoides)Burchell’s Coucal (Centropus burchellii)Magpie Shrike (Lanius melanoleucos)Diederik Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx caprius)Partially leucistic African Scops Owl (Otus senegalensis)Levaillant’s Cuckoo (Clamator levaillantii)Southern Giraffe (Giraffa giraffa)
Day 5. Leaving our accommodation, we tranfered through the Mopane woodlands with several Long-billed Crombecs, Chinspot Batises and Black-backed Puffbacks seen but also with a lovely pair of Black Cuckooshrike moving in the woods. Moving South, we crossed a massive landscape of woodlands, with several White-backed Vultures and Bateleurs soaring the sky along with the less common Lappet-faced Vultures. From a outlook point above Olifants River, an endless ondulation of Mopane could be seen, florished with the long necks of the many Giraffes around. Around the river, some Hippopotamus where feeding, and the river itself provided us with the very firsts White-crowned Lapwing of the trip.
While enjoying our generous brunch other interesting species appear including Black Stork, White-throated Robin Chat and a pair of African Hawk-Eagles circling. Our drive South extended still for a pair of hours, enjoying Red-necked Korhaan but also Waterbucks and Nyalas. But the longest stop was devoted to the first pride of Lions of the tour. This time, there at least 3 females and 4 cubs of different ages, so it was easy to guess that these females were in charge of all the cubs in the pride. As expected in the middle of the day, the Lions were not very active, but one of the females gave us a wonderful walk out of the shade.
By lunch time we arrived to our new accommodation, still well inside Kruger National Park. A short walk around the lodge produced excellent views on a flock of Brown-headed Parrots roosting only a few metres above our heads. But the walk produced much more, including Golden-tailed Woodpcker but also Orange-breasted Bushshrike and the first Burnt-necked Eremomela, Grey-backed Camaroptera & Jameson’s Firefinch of the tour.
After some midday break, we left the camp to do some game drive. Amidst the large plains, small parades of Elephants were feeding, with very scenic light. Birding was quiet but still got distant bu nice views on a nesting pair of White-headed Vultures. At sunset, a Black-bellied Bustard stole the show and displayed only a few metres away from our van. What a wonderful way to end the tour!
Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill (Tockus leucomelas)Double-banded Sandgrouse (Pterocles bicinctus)Red-billed Oxpecker (Buphagus erythrorhynchus) on a Cape Buffalo.Lovely male Greater Kudu (Tragelaphus strepsiceros)Giant Kingfisher (Megaceryle maxima) posed only 2 meters away from our vehicle!Always special when the first Lions (Panthera leo) of the trip appear!Brown-headed Parrots (Poicephalus cryptoxanthus) were roosting in low branches!Golden-tailed Woodpecker (Campethera abingoni)A nice tusker exploring the grasslands. Please note the Lilac-breasted Roller! Image by tour participant Joan Barat.Black-bellied Bustard (Lissotis melanogaster) beside the road to end a wonderful day!
Day 6. Our morning could not start better. An alliance of 3 male Lions lying on the tarmac, giving each other morning salutations and attentions. And roaring. Roaring only 5 metres away from the van, making sure that we were all well awake! We didn’t need any second coffee that day. That was for sure!
This day was basically devoted to contact with some grassland specialists. The day was calm and sunny, and it looked like full of activity. The first hour of the day produced good views on Kori Bustard, but also on Flappet & Rufous-napped Larks plus several Zitting Cisticolas. But today was one of the longest transfers in the tour, and so we kept moving South, enjoying several of the common birds in the area but also nice views on Southern Ground Hornbills. A lovely bird hide produced good views on Striated Herons but also on the fists Brown-crowned Tchagras and Brubrus of the tour. Black-crowned Night Heron was also a good adding to our list! Another good stop was made to check some raptors in the sky. Beyond the common Walhberg’s Eagles, we got also good views on a Martial Eagle that was unnoticed by the tour leaders as we were checking the many swifts and swallows in the sky.. It was a mistake, and who found the eagle could not resist to remind us about for the next ten days 🙂
Not far from our final destination, a large parade of Elephants gave us the change to contact with the only 2 Bennett’s Woodpeckers of the tour! By the time that we arrived to our accommodation is was windy and cold. But a short walk around the Skukuza Camp still produced some goodies including White-browed Robin Chat, the first Sombre Greenbul of the trip, Black-collared Barbet, Red-faced Mousebirds, Green-backed Camaroptera, and Little Sparrowhawk.
A very impressive way to start any day! Image by tour participant Joan Barat.One of three males seen before breakfast.All along Kruger there are a number of wonderful lookouts. Lilac-breasted Roller (Coracias caudatus), a really common view in the woodlandsBlack Scimitarbill (Rhinopomastus aterrimus)A superb shot on a Hamerkop (Scopus umbretta) about to shallow a small fish. Image by tour participant Joan Barat.Brubru (Nialus afer)Secretarybird (Sagittarius serpentarius) patrolling its hunting territory.Wahlberg’s Eagle (Aquila wahlbergi), the commonest eagle in the area.Namaqua Dove (Oena capensis) Southern Black Tit (Melaniparus niger)Black-collared Barbet (Lybius torquatus)This Little Sparrowhawk (Accipiter minullus) appeared in our camp almost at dawn.
Day 7. Our morning around Skukuza was marked by the strong wind. Temperatures were low, with a maximum of only 18ºC, but most of the day was below 15ºC. Our morning game drive was not extremely productive, but we still got good views on the always wonderful Violet-eared Waxbill. Black Scimitarbill, Crested Francolin and Brubru were other interesting sight before having one of the top sights of the trip. Along the morning we also got the only large parck of Cape Buffalos that we got inside the Kruger National Park, and we got lucky that they were joined by some Yellow-billed Oxpeckers, a species that has recently colonised the area from the North.
A massive Leopard male was sitting by a track. When we arrived, there 4 other cars enjoying the views on the big cat. It is not surprising to see Leopards right by the road, but we had a quite extraordinary bonus track. Only a few moments after we arrived, two Warthogs were seen running away, tails up only a few metres away from the Leopard. In between, a small collector of rain was under the road. The small pipe was not of major interest, bu suddenly the Leopard when inside the pipe, and screams came out of the pipe. It was clear that a small Warthog was inside. During the next minute we had a full cacophony of screams, slugs and snarls, ending in a complete silence. It was obvious than the fight was off, and Leopard was enjoying the meal inside the pipe. We decided to wait a bit longer, and after 40 minutes of wait only 2 cars were there. At the end, the massive male came out of the pipe full of blood and with evident wounds. For the next 10 minutes, we enjoyed great views on the cat, only 4 metres away from the van. It was exhausted and dirty, but became one of the most extraordinary mammal sights during the tour.
In the afternoon we stayed in the lodge. It was really windy and cold, so we decided to work some specialties in the area. We were lucky and we had great views on Bearded Scrub Robin, Red-chested Cuckoo, African Green Pigeon and African Goshawk, that was new for the trip.
The always impressive Southern Ground Hornbill (Bucorvus leadveateri)Blue Waxbill (Uraeginthus angolensis)This massive male Leopard (Panthera pardus) gave us some impressive views right after killing a Warthog. A very tame Bearded Scrub Robin (Cercotrichas quadrivirgata) right by our vehicle.Violet-backed Starling (Cinnyricinclus leucogaster)
Day 8. During this day, the temperature started a long collapse, ending the day with only 6ºC, very cloudy sky and poor light. But the morning started sunny and uite warm, and our transfer South produced a long list of goodies. Even before leaving our lodge we enjoyed some Trumpeter Hornbills, and during the morning a number of stops produced great views on a number of goodies. Black Cuckoo but also the often elusive Grey-headed Bushshrike and Bearded Woodpecker were all new for the trip, and Bearded Scrub Robin and Southern Black Tits offered great looks. Our brunch stop offered far away views on 4 African Skimmers but, in addition, we got the first Terrestrial Brownbuls and Southern Boubou of the trip plus obliging Chinspot Batis, Cardinal Woodpecker, Scarlet-chested Sunbird and Grey-tit Flycatcher. As the day advanced, the weather became more colder and windy. A fast stop was made in a lodge in our way to add Crowned Hornbill and Lesser Honeyguide, but after this the bird activity declined and as we approached the limit of the park. It was 15:00 but the light was already limited. Here decided to explore some ponds immediately outside Kruger National Park. In our way out, female Lion and Leopard crossed the road only 300 metres away from each other!
Despite the cloudy weather it became really productive, as we got the first White-backed Ducks and African Swamphens of the trip, the only one Allen’s Gallinule of the tour and a lovely Buffy Pipit walking in front of the van. Other interesting species here included Collared Pratincole (hearts stopped for a while as the bad light conditions made us think on Black-winged Pratincole!), Purple Heron, Grosbeak Weaver and Collared Widowbird.
As we crossed back inside Kruger National Park, a fast final stop was made at the bridge over the Crocodile River. Here we were fascinated by the good variety of birds including Saddle-billed & Holly-necked Storks, Giant Kingfisher, 3 Black-backed Night Herons, 3 Striated Herons but also Wood Sandpipers and Greater Painted Snipe. All of this while Hypopotamus and Bush Elephants were having were hanging around along with some majestic Watterbucks and, of course, Nile Crocodiles.
From here we just covered the short distance to our lodge. In they way, we were lucky to find the first White Rhinoceros of the trip, but unfortunately we only got great views on its but. Once in the lodge, we scanned for some birds, but the very low temperature made not possible and the only interesting bird seen was a Black-headed Oriole and a flock of Red-billed Oxpeckers coming to roost in a dead tree.
Nile Crocodile (Crocodylus niloticus)Gorgeous Bushshrike (Telophorus viridis) well hidden inside a thicket.Red-faced Cisticola (Cisticola erythrops) inhabits dense thickets, often near water.Brown-crowned Tchagra (Tchagra australis).Southern Boubou (Laniarius ferrugineus), another great endemic for the list of the tour!Chinspot Batis (Batis molitor)Trumpeter Hornbill (Bycanistes bucinator).
Day 9. A cold and rainy day. This day we left Kruger behind to start the most exciting part of the tour. Our way to Wakkestroof was cold and rainy, and we had little chances for birding.
Still, the plains around Wakkestroof are always providing good surprises and a number of short stops provided us with the only Greater Flamingoes of the trip along with Red-knobbed Coots and Southern Pochards. Here Red-capped Larks were common, and along with them we had several Southern Ant-eating Chat, Spike-heeled Lark, 2 lovely Blue Korhaans that flew off very close from the road, some distant flocks of Blue Cranes, a memorable Lanner Falcon, and Carmine did again to find the only one Black-winged Lapwing of the trip!
Getting close to Wakkerstroof, the fields start to become smaller and more hilly, and here is where we saw 2 of the very few Springboks of the trip along with Jackal Buzzard under the rain.
Before going to our accommodation to look for shelter of the rain, we had a brief stop in a large lagoon South of Wakkerstroof. Here we had excellent views on African Snipes while feeding in the out along with Squacco & Purple Herons and several African Swamphens.
Black-winged Kite (Elanus caeruleus)Lanner Falcon (Falco biarmicus)Long-tailed Widowbird (Euplectes progne), a very common view around Wakketrof
Day 10. A new early start to explore the amazing plains and hillsides around Wakkestroof. The weather was cloudy but not as cold as the day before, and temperatures went up to 16ºC as the clouds were breaking out during the morning. But the most important is that we had no rain at all. Our very first stop was devoted to explore the wetland immediately South of the town. As the they before, the area was filled with Common Moorhens, some African Swamphens and a few herons, including a lovely adult Purple Heron. Among them, we were lucky to find an African Rail, that provided long views as fed in the out along with Black Crake. Leaving the wetland behind, we faced the grassy hills North of Bakkestroof, in search of some specialties living in the bushland. There we were lucky to contact with the often elusive Bush Blackcap along with the also endemics Drakensberg Prinia, Fiscal Flycatcher, Cape Canary, Cape Grassbird and Bokmakeire. Some Southern Bald Ibis were flying around, and their calls were a nice complement to the sight.
Back to the plains we started looking for some grasslands specialities, and soon we had good scope views on Denhman’s Bustards, but also the common Southern Ant-eating Chat. A fast stop was necessary to admire the often secretive Coqui Francolin feeding and walking in the grasslands, and not far from there we had good views with the scarce Orange-bellied Waxbills feeding in the short grass along with the much commoner Cape Longclaws. White-bellied Bustards, with an endemic (an endangered) race in Southern Africa, proved harder to find in the grasslands, but our perseverance was granted with excellent views on 2 males moving together only a few meters away from our vehicle..
We enjoyed our brunch by a bridge hosting a colony of South African Cliff Swallows. Our itinerary through the amazing hillsides around Wakkerstroom went on, and a new stop was made by a rocky outcrop, where we enjoyed really good looks on both African Rock & Nicholson’s Pipits. Only a few hundred of metres beyond we were walking through one of the very last known spots for the very rare Rudd’s Lark. Here, the local knowledge was essential to locate one of this scarcities, and the whole group enjoyed solid views on one bird as it was feeding in the short grass of the hill side. In our way down, we enjoyed good views on both Wing-snapping and the uncommon Pale-crowned Cisticolas along with the commoner Cape Longclaw and Red-capped Lark. A further short walk in the area also produced other interesting specialities such as Sentinel Rock Thrush, Eastern Long-billed Lark and the often elusive Yellow-breasted Pipit.
Coqui Francolin (Peliperdix coqui), a shy inhabitant of heterogenous grasslands.Southern Anteater Chat (Myrmecocichla formicivora)Southern Bald Ibis (Geronticus calvus)Part of our group in their way to the Rudd’s Lark place.Rudd’s Lark (Heteromirafra ruddi). Excuses the poor quality. We never went close to avoid any disturbanceSpike-heeled Lark (Chersomanes albofasciata)
Leaving the hills, we came down to the plains to spend some time in a number of fields. Again some scanning was required was our dedication was granted with good views on Pink-billed & Eastern Clapper Larks. Here we also had 3 Blue Korhaans and 5 Greater Kestrels that were chasing the very common African Pipits and Widowbirds in the area. The very last short walk of the day was to check a moist corner of the endless plain, and once more our faith was granted with good looks on at least 4 Marsh Owls that were roosting in the rank vegetation!
But our day was not over yet! Back to town, we had a fast stop by a pond and we were all surprised to hear a Red-chested Flufftail calling quite close! So, we decided to try to see the bird, and less than one minute later we were all astonished to see the bird squeaking out of the vegetation!!! It had three small, fast walks in front of our group, right before disappearing in tall grass! An amazing way to end a very special day around Wakkerstroom..
Day 11. After enjoying a wonderful home made breakfast in our B&B accommodation, we moved out as the mist started to clear out. A mandatory stop in the Bakkerstroom lake was made, and we were granted not only with great views on African Swamphens, Squacco Herons and Lesser Swamp Warblers to name a few, but also with the only one Red-throated Wryneck of the trip. A short walk along the reed bed produced great views on a group of 4 Clawless Otters playing and fishing inside the water, and our 2 Red-chested Flufftails started singing as we got inside the vehicle. A wonderful way to say goodbye to Bakkerstroom!
The transfer to Mkuze was smooth, but still quite productive in terms of birds. Temperatures were again going above 20ºC, and the clear, blue sky made us all feel happy. A pair of fast stops produced flying African Harrier-Hawk and Secretary Bird (always great to see them in flight!), Wailing Cisticola and a very unexpected Black Stork!
After having a great lunch in our magnificent lodge around Mkuze, we had a gentle walk around for the rest of the afternoon. It was rather windy, but we still pick up a number of new birds for the trip including Purple-breasted Sunbird, Dark-capped (formerly Forest) Weaver, the very smart Black-throated Wattle-Eye & White-eared Barbet plus wonderful views on Striped Kingfisher, Purple-crested Turaco and Burnt-necked Eremomela.
The often elusive African Snipes (Gallinago nigripennis) provided with several sightings!African Marsh Harrier (Circus ranivorus) patrolling the reedbedsLevaillant’s Cisticola (Cisticola tinniens)Red-throated Wryneck (Jynx ruficollis)Black-throated Wattle-eye (Platysteria peltata)Purple-crested Turaco (Tauraco porphyreolophus)
Day 12. Full morning birding in Mkuze. The morning started fresh and calm, a perfect weather to enjoy birds. Our very first stop was in the outskirts of the Mkuze Reserve, where the lovely indigenous forest provided good views on White-eared Barbet and Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird, while Red-fronted Tinkerbird was new for the trip. Once inside the park we enjoyed Brown-crowned Tchagra and Crested Guineafowl, and a Lesser Spotted Eagle flying over was also new for the trip. Lovely views on Magpie Shrike were added to the list of the day, and fast-flying flock of White-crested Helmetshrikes was a nice complement to the common herds of Impalas and Nyalas. A few yards beyond, a wonderful African Emerald Cuckoo was singing by the road, and we took advantage of this to enjoy some unforgettable views on such a great bird!
A superb African Emerald Cuckoo (Crysococcyx cupreus) was literally waiting for us in an exposed branch. Image by tour participant Joan Barat.
We continued scanning the low vegetation, expecting to find the very elusive Twinspots living here. After very slow driving, a small flock of them started calling in one side of the van. At that point, a massive African Crowned Eagle flew off from a branch only 15 metres away from the van, but our attention was fully concentrated in the dark undergrowth. At our left, an African Broadbill started calling, probably displaying quite close, but our eyes kept looking down in the vegetation. Our perseverance was well rewarded, and only a pair of minutes later a female Pink-throated Twinspot showed out, very low. It was feeding on the ground but, at some point, it jumped up into a branch right in front of our eyes, immediately followed for a wonderful male! The Broadbill looked like singing closer now, but we were still concentrated in these small gems, that were now preening on the branch, only for our eyes (and cameras). This Twinspot is an endemic bird to Southern Africa, with very thin populations, and only found in Southern Mozambique, Eswatini and the North-East of the KwaZulu-Natal province in South Africa. Very happy for this great sight, but the Broadbill was still singing in display, and very close. A short drive of ten metres, and some manoeuvre and a wonderful African Broadbill was displaying right to our window! The bird, that normally displays high in the canopies, was singing and performing only 2 metres high, and probably less than 10 metres from the car! For the next 5 minutes, we all enjoyed a memorable moment of our lives. Some extra manoeuvre was necessary so every side of the van could have a proper view on the bird, and the Broadbill stole the show for some extra minutes!
Pink-throated Twinspot (Hypargus margaritatus) gave our group a superb sight. Image by tour participant Joan Barat.
After such a ecstatic moment, we arrived to our breakfast spot, a lovely pond with a hide. Beyond 2 Leopard Turtles drinking water, really few was on the pond, but the bushland nearby was different. Here we got excellent looks on Rudd’s Apalis, Neergaard’s Sunbird, Acacia Pied Barbet and a rather unexpected Yellow-breasted Bush Petronia, all of them new for the tour! Once our breakfast was enjoyed, we went out of the Nature Reserve to look for some birds living in the riverside forest. It didn’t take long to find a lovely Green Malkoha singing high in the trees, and our walk around produced several Trumpeter Hornbills and the only one Scaly-throated Honeyguide of the trip. But everything came down the frame when a superb Pel’s Fishing Owl came our from the deepest part of the forest, and stop for only a pair of seconds in the canopy, looking at us with its unforgettable eyes! Unfortunately everything happened too fast, and the owl flew off again to be lost in the dense vegetation. We still spend half an hour trying to relocate the bird, but it didn’t happen.. Back to the vehicle, the group celebrated the views on one of the most sought-after targets of the trip!
From here, we were out to explore a number of ponds. It was nice to see good flocks of African Pygmy Geese (probably 50+) but also White-backed Ducks, African Fish Eagle, Malachite Kingfisher,Caspian Tern and a lovely male Greater Painted Snipe (the third of the trip!) along with Curlew Sandpiper, Hottentot Teal, Goliath Heron and several more.
Our last stop before the wind came strong, was to explore a lovely plain of short grass. Here we got great views on several Senegal Lapwings but also African Spoonbills, African Jacanas and the only one Black Egret of the trip!
Day 13. After a short stroll in the gardens of our accommodation, we headed to the coast to spend the morning in iSimangaliso Wetland Park. Here we were surprised by the good number of White-backed Ducks and African Jacanas. The many small ponds along our way had every one its own Long-tailed Cormorant, many times joined by Intermediate Egret (the African form of this heron has been recently renamed as Yellow-billed Heron as the species has been split into 4 different species). A pair of Black-chested Snake Eagle was patrolling the coastal plains, and small flocks of Collared Pratincole were in their way to the bigger ponds. A pair of Red-winged Cisticolas provided us with good views right before we step on a Lesser Moorhen feeding right by the tarmac lane! To find this South African rarity, we were kindly directed by a lovely pair of common birdwatchers. Greetings to them!
A bit beyond, a new South African scarcity was waiting for us: a Rufous-bellied Heron was feeding in a rather distant corner of a pond. We kept driving along the Park with good views on Waterbucks before stopping in one of the many lookouts along the way. Here it is possible to do a short walk, a nice way to stretch our legs that was granted with really close views on the very elusive Brown Scrub Robin and a fast but solid view on 1 Southern Banded Snake Eagle while Narina Trogon and Rudd’s Apalis were calling nearby.
The often shy Brown Scrub Robin (Cercotrichas signata) did a pair of gentle walk on the tarmac for our group! Image by tour participant Joan Barat.
After such a great stop, we just drove out the Park, but before we had a rather unexpected stop, since a White Rhinoceros was feeding 100 metres away from the main lane, and we all enjoyed good views on this peaceful, endangered giant!
A lovely lunch by the beach was an excellent introduction for the last stop of the day. It was already a windy afternoon, but this was not going to stop us. Since September, a Saunder’s Tern had been staying in a river mouth close to Saint Lucia, and we were determined to add such a mega to the list of the tour. Some walk in the beach was required, and once agreed with all the tour participants, we walk down to the beach to look for the bird. Soon, we were contacting with some White-fronted Plovers, LesserCrested Terns and Grey Plovers. 3 African Oystercatchers were fiding in the beach along with Sanderlings and some Little Terns were resting on the beach along with other species. We scanned once and over, but the bird was not there. The wind peaked up, and the sand was heating us even stronger. But every dot of sand in our shoes was worth it when the Saunder’s Tern appeared flying over the Lesser Crested Terns, and stop next to them, allowing everybody in our small group to have great views on this great rarity for the country!
Happy with this unexpected adding, we came back to our accommodation to enjoy some rest and a very nice dinner.
White-backed Duck (Thalassornis leuconotus)This unexpected subadult Lesser Moorhen (Paragallinula angulata) was one of the surprises of the day!We considered ourselves very lucky to connect with the very scarce Southern Banded Snake Eagle (Circaetus fasciolatus)Yellow-throated Longclaw (Macronyx croceus)Southern Brown-throated Weaver (Ploceus xanthopterus), a species with a very limited range. Image by tour participant Joan Barat.
Day 14. Early morning walk immediately around our accommodation in Saint Lucia. The wind went off, allowing us a great morning of birding where we enjoyed some of the specialties living in the area including Grey Sunbird, Red-capped Robin Chat and the lovely Woodwart’s Batis. An African Cuckoo-Hawk briefly appeared up in the canopy, allowing us short but good views, and the localised Green Twinspot also appeared for us. But the best surprise of the morning walk was a flock of 5 Grey Waxbills showing right in the path in front of us! We could not believe what we saw!! The last but not the last, Livingstone Turaco proved harder than we thought, and didn’t show properly until the very end of the walk.
After breakfast, we spent the rest of the morning in game drive in iSimangaliso Park, where we got the best views on Cape Buffalo during the trip, plus lovely views on Mountain Reedbucks and 4 White Rhinoceros!
From here we just drove South to our next accommodation, arriving a pair of hours before dinner.
During the day we saw 4 different White Rhinoceros (Ceratotherium simum), including this “horned” male. Image by tour participant Joan Barat.Often underrate, Cape Buffalos (Syncerus caffer) are wonderful beasts!Mountain Reedbucks (Redunca fulvorufula) in a serious fightDisa spp. One of the 224 species of Orchid found in Kwazulu-Nalta province.
Day 15. Final morning of birding to try to connect with some specialties living around Eshowe. Our first stop was at the Dhinza Forest Parc, a relict area of protected primary forest. Walking along the boardwalk, we were welcomed by some African Olive Pigeons, Little Sparrowhawk and Grey Cuckoochrike catching the first morning light, and as the sun raised we could heard the firsts Eastern Bronze-naped Pigeons singing out of the canopy. It took some minutes, but finally everybody in the group had excellent scope views on the bird. Back to the ground, our local guide fastly connected with one of the very few African Ground Thrushes living in the area. A nervous Lemon Dove showed briefly, but a male Blue Duiker didn’t stole the show and posed for us very long, and only a few metres away, as we were moving out of the reserve.
Sun raising at Dinza Forest Reserve. Spotted Ground Thrush (Geokichla guttata) captured while feeding in the forest ground. Image by tour participant Joan Barat.Blue Duiker (Philantomba monticola), a globally threatened species. This male was a nice surprise in our forest walk. Image by tour participant Joan Barat.
From this gorgeous spot, we drove to the very last forest hosting Green Barbet in Southern Africa. In our way, Carmine saw a Buttonquail jumping from the way of the tires, and we took the chance, step out of the car, and everybody in the group had a chance to see the Black-rumped Buttonquail flying away from us.. Great!
Once in the forest, it didn’t take long to see at least 4 of these extremely endangered bird while feeding on figs. We were lucky, since this species can be hard to find!
Back to the prairies, we still had a Martial Eagle flying above the hills, and a pair of Southern Ground Hornbills feeding beside the car. Befores starting heading to the airport, a very last stop allowed us to connect with a Striped Pipit that our local guide kept in the fridge for us. A wonderful way to end the trip!!
The best we could get from the Green Barbets (Stactolaema olivacea) while feeding in the canopyThe amazing primary forest home of the very last Green Barbet population in South Africa.
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