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Overview: 11th issue for the birding tour company Barcelona Birding Point exploring Southern Morocco. The first days of this issue have been conditioned by a heavy snowfall in the High Atlas. There, our group had to invest longer than usual in order to connect with the main specialties living in the highest part of this massive mountain range. This meant less time to explore wetlands, meaning a shorter list of birds. Despite this, the group got a couple of scarcities for the country; Blue-winged Teal (vagrant from North America) & Spotted Crake (a pretty scarce migratory species in Morocco). The desert and the mountain steppes were as wonderful as always! Despite the fast development, Morocco keeps the whole of its exotims, and remains as one of the main birding destinations in the Western Palearctic due to its landscapes, cultural richness and a wide selection of specialties just beside Europe!
All images in this trip report from Sergi Sales. All rights reserved
Day 1
The tour participants meet for breakfast at our accommodation in Marrakech. Some of them arrived just after breakfast, coming from a different accommodation. After this delicious meet and greet we are ready to start the tour!
As usual, several House Buntings are singing in the gardens of the accommodation, joined by some very noisy Common Bulbuls and by the fast flights of the Pallid Swifts living around.
From here we drove a few miles, into a wooded valley. Here we had our first White Storks, Spotless Starlings, European Red-rumped Swallows & Western Cattle Egrets of the trip, but also the Moroccan race of White Wagtail (until recently still considered as a full species, so something interesting to take a look at it..). After a few minutes we found the first speciality of the tour, as a Levaillant’s Green Woodpecker is moving in some large trees. Up to 4 birds are seen during this stop. Here there are several African Chaffinches (a 2024 split from Common Chaffinch), African Blue Tits and the very contrasted race of Great Spotted Woodpecker.
After this very nice first stop, we headed up into the hillsides. But our route became harder than expected. Our track was damaged during the earthquake in late 2023 but now we are also facing some strong rain. As we keep gaining in altitude, the rain becomes icy rain and, later on, snow. Halfway we made a stop in a typical place for Tristam’s Warbler but the weather conditions are far from average.. Still, a small patch of blue sky allows some birding activity, and this is translated in a showy male Blue Rock Thrush, joined by the first Moussier’s Redstart of the trip and a wonderful Rock Bunting. 3 species within a few inches from each other! This very nice sight aims us to follow up the road. There are only 5 miles left to Oukaimeden ski resort, but this is when the snow becomes very strong, reducing the visibility both on the tarmac and in the air. We took advantage of this horrible weather conditions to taste our first tajin of the trip in a road restaurant, and since the weather keep getting worst we decided to quit the upper part of the road and go down to the valley.
The ends in the plains around Marrakech, where despite the cold temperatures (+5ºC) we got the first Moroccan Magpies, Long-legged Buzzards and Greater Short-toed Larks of the trip plus one obliging Stone Curlew.
Day 2
Due to the bad weather the first day we decided a change in the original planning and to go back to the road leading to Oukaïmeden early in the morning, expecting the road to be open. The weather looks very good and we managed to arrive to the ski resort despite the snow and the low temperatures.
Lower than expected we found a nice flock of Atlas Horned Larks, and while enjoying this species we also discovered one pair of Black Wheatears and a couple of shy Ring Ouzels. At the lake of the ski resort we got Eurasian Coots but also the nesting pair of White-bellied Dippers (this is one of the Southernmost territories of this species!). Around there were more Atlas Horned Larks along with Thekla Larks and the large flocks of Red-billed Choughs that were wondering around all along the morning started to be joined by Alpine Choughs. Around the buildings there were also a good number of Common Rock Sparrows. But no sign of the Crimson-winged Finches. Other small groups of birdwatchers from different nationalities were (British, Belgians, Dutchs,..) also looking for these buggers. We kept looking for them and at the end a small flock of this sought-after species flew right in front of us. Wonderful!
More than satisfied after this in extremis sight we started the long transfer to the Souss Massa National Park. En route, while crossing the breathtaking landscapes of the Atlas mountains, we enjoyed species such as Alpine & Little Swifts and the first Spanish Sparrows of the trip in a mixed colony in the motorway. Once the night arrived, already close to our accommodation, we got Stone Curlews and Little Owls crossing the road plus one very fast Long-eared Owl that not everybody could see.
Atlas Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris atlas)Alpine Chough (Pyrrhocorax graculus).African Crimson-winged Finch (Rhodopechys sanguineus alienus).A second view on the African Crimson-winged Finch, this time showing the lovely roseate primaries.
There are several reasons to visit the Souss-Massa area, but there is always something special when it comes to try to connect with Black-crowned Tchagras, since this is one of their Northernmost spots in the African continent! So we leave our accommodation for a pre-breakfast walk to explore the mixture of farming and bushland surrounding our privileged location. It didn’t take long to listen the first Tchagra and also a good number of Western Olivaceous Warblers plus a good variety of migratory passerines. Common Quails are singing in the fields around but they are as secretive and shy as usual, and they keep into hide despite our efforts. Moussier’s Redstarts, on the contrary, stand at the opposite side of the spectrum, and show themselves on terrific views!
Happy after this nice stat of the day, we came back to the accommodation to enjoy a wonderful breakfast.
Back to the fields, we contact with a showy Black-winged Kite in our way to one of the several water ponds along the river. This time we are lucky, and the Kite goes on with great display show. Here, the plentiful crops around are thriving with passage birds including Willow, Western Subalpine & Western Orphean Warblers but also Tree Pipits and Woodchat Shrikes.
Our first pond produces a good array of waders and ducks, and our growing list is complemented with the first flock of Brown-throated Martins flying over the ranking vegetation along with other species of Swallows & Martins.
From here we walk along the Massa River following the way down to its estuary. Along the way we find a number of ducks and waders as well as Greater Flamingoes and Glossy Ibises. We also meet other birdwatchers that have seen the long staying Green-winged Teals. After a long scanning, we finally found them resting along with Northern Shovelers and our efforts were rewarded with good views on the male as it came out of the vegetation for a swim.
At noon, we went to enjoy our picnic boxes in one of the impressive beaches next to the estuary. Here it is possible to enjoy a good seawatching, and we are lucky enough to have a good passage of Atlantic Gannets that they. Along with them we also get a few Great & Arctic Skuas. Migration was intense at that moment, and we got flocks of Eurasian Spoonbills and Grey Plovers moving North along the coastline. Still, our main goal here was to find the critically endangered Northern Bald Ibis, that has along this coast their only three self-sustained colonies in the world. We were about to give up when suddenly 3 Bald Ibis emerged, moving towards the sea cliffs where they would spend that night!
Day 4
Our pre-breakfast outing produces nice views on Barbary Partridges but also on Little Owl and several Moroccan Magpies. After breakfast we started transfering to Boulmane du Dades; a rather long drive crossing the impressive Anti Atlas landscapes. This is normally a good drive for birds of prey, but this time was rather low. Still, we got the first Bonelli’s Eagles of the trip. Right before crossing Ouarzazate we made a stop in a little pond that had been very good in previous trips, and it didn’t disappoint us neither this year. Here we got Little Ringed Plover, Black Wheatears and Ruddy Shelducks, but also the first Maghreb Larks & Desert Larks of the trip. Still, the best bird in this stop was a Spotted Crake that came out of the rank vegetation giving excellent views to the group.
After this stop we covered the last miles until our accommodation, arriving there about sunset. Tomorrow we will head to the famous Tagdilt Track!
Barbary Partridges (Alectoris barbara)Spotted Crake (Porzana porzana) in a small stream in the Anti Atlas.
Day 5
We headed to explore the large seme desert plain known as Tagdilt Track, probably the best location for Larks and Wheatears in the Western Palearctic. It didn’t take long to find the first of many White-crowned Black Wheatear, always a wonderful bird to admire! The area is fulfilled with birds, despite the many plastics around. Here there several pairs of Red-rumped Wheatears, some of them already with their chicks running around. Still, the commoner of the Wheatears around is the Desert Wheatear. Here there are also some migratory species, including both Northern & Western Black-eared Wheatears! It doesn’t look like a good year for Thick-billed Larks, and during the morning we fail to find any of them. Going away from the “rubbish dump” we soon find several Desert Larks and Bar-tailed Larks (usually uncommon here). Among the many Thekla Larks here we found the first Greater Hoopoe Lark of the trip and, while enjoying this beauty a flock of Cream-coloured Courser crosses the track providing great looks! Back to the rubbish dump we found also a small flock of Temminck’s Lark, similar to Horned Lark but smaller and living in dry ambients.
The temperature climbs up and we go to explore to the gorges around expecting to find also some shade. Just after arriving a Lanner Falcon flew at short distance above the group, trying to catch a Desert Lark.
After a short walk we arrived in front of a small cave and the local guide there showed us a Pharaon Eagle Owl with 3 small chicks. Close by we also get Long-legged Buzzards, that look like nesting around. Trumpeter Finches are flying around and a bit beyond we got a distant Maghreb Wheatear. Unfortunately it is shy and we need an extra walk to get nice views on the pair nesting around. More than satisfied with this stop, we went back to the plains and soon we contact with a Thick-billed Lark that shows out before disappearing in the vegetation..
Late in the afternoon we went up into the Dades Gorge to look for Tristam’s Warbler, a species that we couldn’t find during the first day because of the bad weather. A few minutes after arriving to the spot, a male was heart singing and shortly we found the bird, that provided very good looks. Back to the accommodation we still had a final chapter for the day as a Bonelli’s Eagle flew over us at close range bringing a massive branch at the peak to land in the cliffs beyond right by the nest! This is normally a good place for Barbary Falcon, but there is no luck for this bird this year.. We get inside our accommodation, still hearing the songs of Blue Rock Thrushes and Black Wheatears arond it!
Tristam’s Warbler (Curruca deserticola).
Dia 6
Long trasfer to the first dunes of the Sahara. En route, we went for a stop looking for the often secretive Streaked Bush Warbler (often referred in this area as Saharan Scrub Warbler and a full species regarding some lists). We had some walk in the sandy terrain surrounded by goats and enjoying several Great Grey Shrikes, when we heard the call of the birds and after some running we all got good views on a family group as there were moving on the ground or inside the tiny, spiny bush.
It is almost lunch time so we went into a nearby restaurant to enjoy a very nice set menu lunch. It is Ramadah, but it is not hard to find places like along our way. After lunch we kept moving to Merzouga and after a couple of less productive stops we arrived to the impressive lagoon nearby Merzouga. The lagoon had been dry for 5 years, but the generous rains during the last winter made it happen, and the lagoon looked like amazing. Here we got the typical image of Flamingoes framed with sand dunes that made this place became famous worldwide, but we also enjoyed the good array of nesting birds around: Ruddy Shelducks, Black-winged Stilts + Little Ringed & Kentish Plovers. The lagoon also hosted scarce migratory birds including Black-necked Grebe and Osprey and, most importantly, a shy and very distant flock of Marbled Ducks!
Very early in the morning we met our local guides coming with its full-equiped 4x4s. First stop was to check a drinking pond where Sandgrouses come to drink water early in the morning. Soon, we were enjoying good numbers of both Spotted & Crowned Sandgrouses. For the first time in years, Crowned Sandgrouses were outnumbering the Spotted ones. After enjoy the Sandgrouse spectacle and no majoy delay we moved to our next spot, this time to check a pair of Desert Sparrows nesting nearby. Unfortunately we have no luck with them so, taking advantage of this we decided to move deeper in the desert, where a nomad is waiting for us as he found a Egyptian Nightjar roosting in the desert. After a short walk we arrived where the Nightjar is and we all spent a few minutes watching this absolute treat, always at a safe distance.
Leaving this amazing spot, we went back to the Desert Sparrow territory, and this time we immediately got the eyes on the birds as they were hanging around very close to their nest. We actually saw one male and two females building the nest.
From here we have a bit of a drive as we are going now in search of the African Desert Warbler. After some walk in the dunes we got to see one, but not everybody in the group got to see the bird.. We were decided to be there longer, but a strong wind started to blow in and we decided to give up, so far. A pity, since the place was fulfilled with migratory birds (Common Redstarts, Booted Eagles, W Bonelli’s & W Subalpine Warblers, Woodchat Shrikes,..).
After lunch weather conditions kept degrading so we decided to call it a day and have some spare time in the afternoon, aiming to have better luck the next day.
Early in the morning we went for a stroll around the accommodation, a typical place for Fulvous Blabbler. Soon, we got to see one of them, providing really good looks. From here, we moved into a typical place for African Desert Warbler but we failed again. Anyway, this could be the best fail ever, since a Fennec just came out from nowhere, crossing in front of the car and letting us decent views! We could count ourselves lucky to see it, even without trying it!
Still shocked after the last desert jewel, we went for a last go on the Desert Warbler, trying to improve the views that we got the day before. Again, we failed to find the bird but our tenacity is rewarded by finding a nest of Greater Hoopoe Lark, built up in a tussock so they can watch out for predators.
Our way to the famous Cafe Yasmina (where the Catalan Bird Society has a ringing station) is a bit difficult, since the winter rains have made the are become a small lake. Taking advantage of these unusual conditions, tens of migratory birds are feeding around. Here we found the only flock of Collared Pratincoles for the trip, while Sedge Warblers are especially common in the tamarisk around, where they are joined by Western Olivaceous Warblers. En route we also have a few Cream-coloured Coursers and the first Seebohm’s Wheatears of the trip.
The last stop of the day is to have a second visit in the Merzouga lake. Beside the species that we saw in our previous visit, we added Little Stint, Dunlin, Common Redshank, Common Greenshank and Wood Sandpiper along with a rather unexpected Water Pipit. Close by, in a palm orchard, we got some passerines but also a mixed flock of European & Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters.
Torden lleonat (Argya fulva)Fennec (Vulpes zerda) a la carreraAfrican Desert Warbler (Curruca deserti).Alosa puput (Alaemon alaudipes).
Day 9
Transfer day with stops in our way to Ouarzazate. In our stops exploring different wadis (dry desert-like streams) we found a good variety of Wheatears but also Spectacled Warbler along with the commoner Western Subalpine Warbler. We also found a small nesting colony of Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters.
Before arriving to our accommodation in Ouarzazate we went for a visit into the Al-Mansour Barrage, a massive reservoir South of the city. Here we added Gull-billed Tern and Sand Martin to our list before the strong winds made us withdraw back to our accommodation.
Day 10
Last day of the trip. The birding starts early, as the birds join us while having breakfast. The gardens of the accommodation are hosting some Western Olivaceous Warblers, but also Hoopoes, Tree Pipits and Warblers while several Red-rumped Swallows are flying above us.
En route we made a stop in a stream. The weather was clearly better than in previous days, as the wind was totally stopped. And this spot was fulfilled with migratory passerines. Here we got 10+ birds of 7 species in a single tree: W Subalpines & W Orphean Warblers; Common Whitethroat; Willow & W Bonelli’s Warblers; Common Chiffchaffs and some very tame Iberian Chiffchaffs. The rank vegetation was having tens of Sedge & Common Reed Warblers moving around. Pied Flycatcher was a new species for the tour.
While crossing the Atlas mountains we nice views on Red-billed Choughs, and the last stop of the trip was to explore a conifer woodland. Here we got Coal Tit and Eurasian Sparrowhawk while Common Crossbills are heard calling around. As a final sight, a Eurasian Goshawk was seen displaying above the slopes!
This is the last stop of the trip before arriving to our accommodation back in Marrakech, ending a pretty nice tour despite the challenging weather conditions, with far less birds of prey than in previous editions but enjoying excellent numbers of migratory passerines, especially in those areas still having ponds from the generous winter rains.
List of bird species of the tour:
Ruddy Shelduck (Tadorna ferruginea)
Common Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna)
Blue-winged Teal (Spatula discors)
Northern Shoveler (Spatula clypeata)
Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)
Pintail (Anas acuta)
Eurasian Teal (Anas crecca)
Marbled Duck (Marmaronetta angustirostris)
Common Quail (Coturnix coturnix) — only heard
Barbary Partridge (Alectoris barbara)
Feral Pigeon (Columba livia)
Common Wood-pigeon (Columba palumbus)
European Turtle Dove (Streptopelia turtur)
Eurasian Collared Dove (Streptopelia decaocto)
Laughing Dove (Spilopelia senegalensis)
Spotted Sandgrouse (Pterocles senegallus)
Crowned Sandgrouse (Pterocles coronatus)
Red-necked Nightjar (Caprimulgus ruficollis) — heard only
Egyptian Nightjar (Caprimulgus aegyptius)
Alpine Swift (Tachymarptis melba)
Common Swift (Apus apus)
Pallid Swift (Apus pallidus)
Little Swift (Apus affinis)
Spotted Crake (Porzana porzana)
Eurasian Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus)
Eurasian Coot (Fulica atra)
Stone Curlew (Burhinus oedicnemus)
Black-winged Stilt (Himantopus himantopus)
Pied Avocet (Recurvirostra avosetta)
Grey Plover (Pluvialis squatarola)
Common Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula)
Little Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius)
Kentish Plover (Charadrius alexandrinus)
Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)
Bar-tailed Godwit (Limosa lapponica)
Black-tailed Godwit (Limosa limosa)
Common Snipe (Gallinago gallinago)
Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos)
Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus)
Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola)
Common Redshank (Tringa totanus)
Common Greenshank (Tringa nebularia)
Ruff (Calidris pugnax)
Curlew Sandpiper (Calidris ferruginea)
Sanderling (Calidris alba)
Dunlin (Calidris alpina)
Little Stint (Calidris minuta)
Cream-coloured Courser (Cursorior cursor)
Collared Pratincole (Glareola pratincola)
Arctic Skua (Stercorarius parasiticus)
Great Skua (Stercorarius skua)
Slender-billed Gull (Chroicocephalus genei)
Black-headed Gull (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
Yellow-legged Gull (Larus michahellis)
Lesser Black-backed Gull (Larus fuscus)
Gull-billed Tern (Gelochelidon nilotica)
Sandwich Tern (Thalasseus sandvicensis)
Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus roseus)
Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
Great Crested Grebe (Podiceps cristatus)
Black-necked Grebe (Podiceps nigricollis)
White Stork (Ciconia ciconia)
Atlantic Gannet (Morus bassanus)
Great Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo)
Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus)
Northern Bald Ibis (Geronticus eremita)
Eurasian Spoobill (Platalea leucorodia)
Little Egret (Egretta garzetta)
Squacco Heron (Ardeola ralloides)
Western Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis)
Great White Egret (Ardea alba)
Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea)
Osprey (Pandion haliaetos)
Black-winged Kite (Elanus caeruleus)
Short-toed Eagle (Circaetus gallicus)
Booted Eagle (Aquila pennata)
Bonelli’s Eagle (Aquila fasciata)
Eurasian Sparrowhawk (Accipiter nisus)
Eurasian Goshawk (Accipiter gentilis)
Western Marsh Harrier (Circus aeruginosus)
Montagu’s Harrier (Circus pygargus)
Black Kite (Milvus migrans)
Long-legged Buzzard (Buteo rufinus cirtensis)
Pharaon Eagle Owl (Bubo ascalaphus)
Little Owl (Athene noctua)
Hoopoe (Upupa epops)
Blue-cheecked Bee-eater (Merops persicus)
Eurasian Bee-eater (Merops apiaster)
Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major)
Levaillant’s Woodpecker (Picus vailantii)
Lesser Kestrel (Falco naumanii)
Eurasian Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus)
Lanner Falcon (Falco biarmicus)
Black-crowned Tchagra (Tchagra senegalus)
Great Grey Shrike (Lanius excubitor) — Algerian Shrike; Desert Grey Shrike
The tour started in the Pyrenees with the first morning hampered by snow, low cloud and mist at higher altitudes before clearing to much clearer and milder weather. The weather in the lowlands/plains was very kind with warmer conditions and only very light winds. The bad weather in the first day affected a bit the tour, with a couple of locations performing clearly below average, especially those involving boreal forests. The lack of snow in the top of the mountains during January and February meant no chances for us to connect with Snow Finches. In the steppes, Dupont’s Larks performed very well for us, and once we connected with the major targets in the plains we even had time for a couple of hours of birdwatching at Ebro Delta, a coastal heaven of birds that is normally out of bounds in this itinerary..
DAY 1.
After collecting all 6 tour participants from around the airport in Barcelona we headed through drizzly rain towards the Pyrenees. After 90 minutes of drive, we arrived to the area to explore, and we had a short coffee stop before attempting to drive a lane higher into the mountains through increasingly heavy snow. Around 1500m the road had become quite difficult, so we parked safely and explored the area.
Almost immediately the group found an Alpine Accentor sheltering and feeding on the screen by the roadside! Everyone enjoyed good views despite the weather, before it moved off further up the slope, here we also saw and heard our first European Crested Tits, Coal Tit, Firecrest, and Mistle Thrush of the trip along with several Red-billed Chough.
After a walk up the road a few hundred metres the weather began to improve, and as we headed back to the minibus the first of several Eurasian Griffon Vulture began to appear overhead. Whilst enjoying views of these one of the group (Jonny R) shouted out….. ”LAMMERGEIER!!” and an adult bird passed directly overhead giving great views as it glided down across the valley – what a start to the trip!
Alpine Accentor (Prunella collaris) feeding in the slope. Image by Carles Oliver.Full adult Lammergeier (Gypaetos barbatus). Image by Carles Oliver
After this excitement we decided to slowly head down the mountain, the weather continued to improve and before we had travelled far we had to stop – 2 Lammergeier were circling and showing well above us! An adult-type bird and a younger 3rd year type bird gave a superb show before drifting away. We then stopped around in the valley where the terraced fields and trees provided lots of birds including Rock Bunting, Hawfinch, Black Redstart, European Stonechat, European Serin, Meadow Pipit and some of the commoner Finches and Tits as well as an unexpected Cattle Egret – not something normally seen at this altitude! We could also hear Iberian Green Woodpecker calling here.
During our urban lunch stop and whilst there saw White-throated Dipper, Common Chiffchaff and Grey Wagtail on the stream through the village and a Common Buzzard passed overhead.
In the afternoon we drove another scenic lane up into the mountains where we enjoyed more fantastic views of 20+ Eurasian Griffons as well as 2 Golden Eagles, Red-billed Choughs and even Magpie which seemed out of place at this altitude. A small group of feeding birds included Fieldfare, Yellowhammer, Chaffinch and Goldfinch. This site also produced our first Pyrenean Chamois of the trip. We again descended into lower meadows and fields and walked a small hill that provided our first Iberian Grey Shrike as well as Eurasian Tree Sparrows, Crested Lark, Firecrests, Crested Tits, Black Redstarts, Yellowhammer, Goldcrest and Corn Buntings. Our last stop before reaching the accommodation for the evening produced lovely views of 8 Rock Sparrows on wires by the roadside – but the day was not finished there because our fabulous accommodation and host has a feeding station in the garden, and as the light faded we were treated to amazing views of up to 3 Beech Martins!! A quite amazing end to fantastic first day.
Hawfinch (Coccothraustes coccothraustes). Image by Justin Williams.Rock Bunting (Emberiza cia). Image by Carles Oliver.European Crested Tit (Lophophanes cristatus). Image by Jo Simon.Eurasian Griffon (Gyps fulvus). Image by Jo Simon.Beech Martin (Martes foina). Image by Stephen Davis.
Day 2.
In some ways a slightly frustrating day with numerous stops and effort failing to locate any Citril Finch, Black Woodpecker or White-winged Snowfinch, but this aside we enjoyed a fantastic variety of birds as we tried several areas including trips into France and then Andorra!
In the lower altitudes we came across a fantastic mixed flock of finch and other small birds including Common Crossbills, (c20) giving great views along the road, as well as Brambling, Siskin, Bullfinch, Short-toed Treecreeper, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Long-tailed Tit, Rock Bunting and Chaffinch, again we could hear Iberian Green Woodpecker calling but they remained invisible…..also in these areas Red Kites became more frequent. Here we also came across our only Red Squirrel of the trip.
In the high mountain passes we enjoyed yet more incredible views of Eurasian Griffons and Common Raven, and as we entered Andorra, our first stop around the town produced a decent number of Alpine Chough hanging about around the shops and houses.
As we had time left in the day, we retraced our steps and returned to summit the lane at Coll de Pal – we had to stop quite soon on the way up due to an adult Lammergeier showing incredibly well by the van!! This bird gave us our best views yet and even landed on the scree a few hundred yards away – a definite highlight of the whole trip!!
Onwards to the summit of the pass in bright sunshine, and we were rewarded at the top when we located a group of 4 Alpine Accentors feeding down to a few metres away, scuttling and shuffling in the snow and short turf – superb!
We then took the 90 min transfer to Lleida where we would be based for 2 nights.
Common Crossbill (Loxia curvirostra). Image by Jonathan Kennedy.Alpine Choughs (Pyrrhocora graculus) in Andorra. Image by Justin Williams.That afternoon we got impressive views on Lammergeier. Image by Carles Oliver.Lammergeier about to land for us. Image by Carles Oliver.Lammergeier on the ground. Image by Carles Oliver.Pyrenean Chamois (Rupicabra pyrenaica). Image by Justin Williams.Alpine Accentor (Prunella collaris). Image by Stephen Davis.
Day 3.
The day began with a short trip to our first site and roadside White Storks but even this was interrupted by one of the group skilfully spotting a Stone Curlew by the road!
We were shortly at our first stop, a spectacular dam and gorge with a river and mixed scrub, we quickly began adding birds such as Rock Sparrow, Blue Rock Thrush, Crag Martins (which breed in the tunnel), Blackcap, Kestrel, Song Thrush, Short-toed Treecreeper, Common Kingfisher, Cettis and Sardinian Warblers, Firecrest, Rock Buntings and several Eurasian Griffons. Around 2 hours had now passed and things were starting to get a bit tense…..and then WALLCREEPER!! A bird was located towards the dam and 3 of the group were in the right spot to see it straight away, whilst the rest hurried towards the bird, they found a second Wallcreeper! This bird gave everyone much better views for a few minutes, and everyone could relax, especially Carles!
As we left the gorge a short stop provided Cirl Buntings, 2 Peregrines, Hawfinch and a large flock of Corn Bunting, and as we stopped for coffee, Spotless Starlings.
Stone Curlew (Burhinus oedicnemus). Image by Stephen Davis.Wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria). Image by Justin Williams.Wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria). Image by Jonathan Kennedy.Wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria). Image by Justin Williams.Wallcreeper Argonauts! Image by Jo Symon.
We then moved on towards our next site with a couple of stops, the first providing many Cattle Egrets, White Storks and our first Great Egret, the second 2 Golden Eagles, Lapwing, Raven,Thekla Larks and a ringtail Hen Harrier as well as a roadside Little Owl.
We then stopped beside a spectacular roadside cliff face for our lunchtime picnic and immediately located our 3rdWallcreeper of the day!! Although a little more distant this bird gave good telescope views, but we were distracted from this by 2-3 Black Wheatears which were also showing well here along with a Blue Rock Thrush!
We were now into an area of plains and mixed arable land that is rapidly changing due to increased irrigation, but some areas still held many birds and we were quickly seeing Calandra Larks along with Thekla and Crested Larks and after walking a while we saw a distant Iberian Grey Shrike, Peregrine, and then located a single summer plumaged Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, a little distant, but again telescope views were good. As we left the site, we had excellent views of another Iberian Grey Shrike which really showed the difference between this and its northern counterpart.
We then called at a small roadside wetland and began adding a few species such as Coot Shoveler, Common Pochard, Common Snipe, Reed Bunting and Great Egret, as well as a rather unexpected, and slightly questionable, African Sacred Ibis! This bird has been in the area a while, and presumably originates from a ‘feral’ population in nearby France, Italy or Germany… Either way it made at least one of the group very happy!
Our last stop was to close by, and before we had even parked the van our main target was located – a male Eagle Owl! Perched in the ruins of an huge ancient building, this guy sat and watched us as we quietly watched him before starting to sing….amazing!
Whilst Serins and Sardinian Warblers twittered and scratched nearby, the Eagle Owl sat watch, his deep hoot echoing occasionally, until he finally flew low across to a nearby rock face….what an end to a truly fantastic days birding!!
Little Owl (Athene noctua) on its roof. Image by Justing Williams.Spotless Starling (Sturnus unicolor). Image by Justin Williams.Pin-tailed Sandgrouse (Pterocles alchata) male. Image by Carles Oliver.Iberian Grey Shrike (Lanius meridionalis) posed nicely for the group. Image by Carles Oliver.African Sacred Ibis (Therskiornis aethiopicus) moving along with Western Cattle Egrets. Image by Carles Oliver.Eurasian Eagle Owl (Bubo bubo) watching us. Image by Carles Oliver.
Day 4.
The day began with a short transfer after breakfast, interrupted by a large flock of migrating Common Cranes. These birds had presumably roosted nearby in the large open arable fields and were continuing their northward journey. We then entered an area of mixed arable/farmed/wild fields with big skies and tremendous views, misty fog didn’t help our search, but we quite quickly located 5 Great Bustards, all males, slowly wandering across their chosen field. Views were not brilliant, but very atmospheric! Here we were surrounded by Calandra Larks, Corn Buntings and our first Lesser Short-toed Larks as well as a Zitting Cisticola, Stonechats and Sardinian Warbler.
We then took a short coffee stop as the mist cleared and visited a small wetland with more Larks and many Linnets, Corn Buntings and Chaffinch before having second, clearer but distant views of the Great Bustards. With this under our belts we collected lunch and moved on.
We soon arrived at Lomaza (only briefly distracted by a large flock of migrating White Storks) and began to look at various larks…. A lot! A landscape of low spiky grass, thistle and huge skies stretched all around us. Quickly we were seeing many Calandra, Thekla and Lesser Short-toed (or ‘Mediterranean’) Larks, with their songs all around us, including much mimicry from the Calandra – quite a soundscape!
After c45mins, suddenly, the song we were searching for, and quickly some views of our quarry…DUPONT’S LARK! At least 2 birds, a pair, were making short, darting runs between bits of spiky tussocks grass until, amazingly, the male climbed a short way into a tussock and sat in full view singing…..a fantastic bit of good fortune and handshakes all round!
With the pressure off we all enjoyed the experience and incredible scenery of this beautiful, wild landscape.
The weather was warm now, and we stopped near Belchite to admire some ruins complete with Crag Martins, Serins and Black Redstart before moving onto a high plateau.
Slowly driving and scanning the fields we came across an unexpected flock of Dotterel, with around 25-30 birds present and showing well, whilst above a Golden eagle soared past. Again we were seeing lots of Calandra Lark with birds still in large winter flocks, Stonechats by the road, Red-legged Partridge, 2 Red Fox, but no sandgrouse….much scanning and scoping eventually led to one of the group picking out a small flock in the far distance, we drove nearer and saw up to 16 Black-Bellied Sandgrouse, good scope views of the birds moving about their chosen field as well as in flight when they are really impressive, a fantastic end to another brilliant day!
Great Bustards (Otis tarda) in dense fog. Image by Carles Oliver.Dupont’s Lark (Chersophilus duponti): shaking wings as preparing to leave its resting site (up), male singing from to top of a tussock (below). Image by Carles Oliver.Eurasian Dotterel (Charadrius morinellus), one of 25+ birds resting in a plugged field. Image by Justin Williams.European Serin (Serinus serinus) female in a short stop around Belchite. Image by Carles Oliver.Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), one of many seen during the trip. Image by Carles OliverCorn Bunting (Emberiza calandra) acting like being spring. The area around Lleida has the largest density in Europe. Image by Carles Oliver.
Day 5.
We awoke to fairly torrential constant rain, and with the forecast not looking good we made the decision to change our plans and head for the Ebro Delta.
This journey was briefly interrupted with a stop when we spotted 4 Spanish Ibex on a high hill beside the road. Once we arrived at the Ebro we rapidly began adding birds to the trip list, the total change in habitat was exciting and we added many species during the morning including exciting birds such as Moustached Warbler which showed quite well a few times, Penduline Tit, Western Swamphen, Bluethroat, Greater Flamingo, Glossy Ibis, Slender-billed Gull, Caspian Tern, Black-necked Grebe, Red-crested Pochard, and Osprey as well a variety of waders and other wetland birds.
Too soon we had to leave and head for Barcelona, and the airport, but still we made time for 2 quick stops – the first giving us great views of Iberian Green Woodpecker (finally!) and Monk Parakeets. The second stop was at the beach right by the airport where we had fantastic views of AudouinsGull and also passing Atlantic Gannets and Sandwich Terns….a fitting end to a really enjoyable trip with a great group!
Western Swamphen (Porphyrio porphyrio) under the rain. Image by Carles Oliver.Penduline Tit (Remiz pendulinus) showed well under the rain. Image by Carles Oliver.Bluethroat (Luscinia svecica) in the path for us. Image by Carles Oliver.Iberian Green Woodpeckers (Picus sharpei). Image by Jo Symon.Another shot on Iberian Green Woodpecker. Image by Justin Williams. Our group almost complete. Image by Daf Edwards.
Resum: Hongria presenta una combinació entre increïbles boscos, zones d’aiguamoll i grans planures de secà, anomenades putsza. Aquest país és un dels pocs llocs on pots veure tots els picots d’Europa, excepte el tridàctil, alhora que bones poblacions de piocs salvatges amb un bon assortit de rapinyaires.
Dia 1
Fent escala a Viena, arribem al petit aeroport de Budapest al migdia amb temps per poder fer una primera visita a les zones de putsza al Sud de la capital.
Tot just trepitjar les primeres planúries no ens és gens difícil, als marges dels camins, veure un bon nombre d’escorxadors i trenques. Els primers encara alimentant pollets volanders.
Estols d’oques comunes comencen a desplaçar-se a les zones de joca al igual que grans grups de cornelles emmantellades barrejades amb graules.
En aquesta zona son freqüents els grups familiars de gaig blau. No tardem gaire en veure el majestuós vol de l’au més pesada amb capacitat per poder volar; el pioc salvatge, i tot voltant per la zona veiem altres grups que com per art de màgia desapareixen de l’horitzó de forma miraculosa. Entre les escenes màgiques que restaran a la nostra memòria està la del vol d’un nombrós grup de piocs sobre la nostra posició amb el seu majestuós vol.
D’aquí ens desplacem al nostre allotjament per acabar aquesta llarga jornada degustant les primeres viandes de la famosa cuina hongaresa.
Trenca (Lanius minor), espècie molt comú a les estepes hongareses. Lesser Grey Shrike.Escorxador (Lanius collurio), una espècie encara més comú que l’anterior. Red-backed Shrike.Pioc salvatge (Otis tarda) en vol al vespre. Great Bustard.
Dia 2
Acompanyats de bons amics hongaresos visitem la famosa reserva de putsza al Sud de la capital. Una vegada près el cafè recuperador fem un tomb pel poble a la cerca del picot garser siriac, ocell que sovint es veu en zones humanitzades. No triguem a detectar les veus d’aquest ocell i finalment una parella es deixa veure al voltant d’una zona enjardinada. La migració dels petits ocells ja és present, com a confirma la visualització en el mateix jardí d’un mosquiter xiulaire i les veus de diversos tallarols xerraires.
Travessem zones obertes tot esperant que l’augment de la temperatura activi als gran rapinyaires. Repetim forces espècies vistes el dia anterior, amb les primeres observacions de llunyanes d’àguiles imperials orientals. Finalment es fan tèrmiques on s’agrupen diverses àguiles imperials i les primeres majestuoses àguiles marines.
Sobrevolen els espais pasturats pels búfals alliberats dins el marc dels projectes de gestió d’hàbitats per les espècies estepàries, cigonyes blanques i negres. Ens dirigim ara a un racó diferent, a on fem espera d’un dels gran targets del viatge, el falcó sacre. Tot veient una de les seves preses favorites, els suslic, esperem fins que un exemplar de falcó apareix tot lluitant amb un dels omnipresents xoriguers comuns. Posteriorment, un altre exemplar en del·laïta amb vols de cacera a més curta distància.
Una vegada assolits els principals objectius de la regió, visitem alguna de les grans zones humides bàsicament emprades com a piscifactories de peix d’aigua dolça, sobretot carpa i peix gat. Aquí hi trobem un bon ventall d’aus aquàtiques alhora que els primers corbs marins pigmeus del viatge i morell xocolaters, alguns encara en grups familiars. Dos exemplars de les escasses perdius de mar en aquesta zona es llueixen davant nostre i alhora que tafaners joves de mallerengues de bigotis es deixen veure en els canyissars que envolten les basses.
Arribat al migdia visitem un restaurant especialitzat en cuina local, una gran cloenda per un agran jornada.
Posteriorment marxem cap el nord-est ja que ens espera un llarg trànsfert on van sortint noves espècies pel tour com un grapat de falcons cama-rojos.
Cigonyes blanca i negra (dreta) sobrevolant les estepes hongareses. White and Black Storks.Àguila marina (Hieraaetus albicilla). White-tailed Eagle Falcó sagrat (Falco cherrug), un dels rapinyaires més amenaçats a Europa. Saker Falcon.Àguila imperial oriental (Aquila heliaca). Eastern Imperial Eagle
Avui l’objectiu és visitar el mític conjunt de zones humides i putsza de la regió d’Hortobagy. Un organitzat sistema de piscifactories de peix d’aigua dolça permet visitar caminant diverses basses amb diferents cobertures de canyissar on per exemple són abundants un seguit de passeriformes de canyissar com els boscarlers comuns, les boscarles de canyar o les mallerengues de bigotis. En aquestes dates les zones més somes estan pràcticament seques però allà on resta una mica d’aigua, es concentren un bon nombre d’ardèids, bec-planers i limícoles. Des d’una de les torres d’observació es veu l’increïble paisatge que genera una gran zona humida envaïda per florits nenúfars grocs. Entre ells s’amaguen morells xocolaters, cabussons i centenars de corb marins pigmeus.
Després d’un excel·lent dinar en un clàssic restaurant d’Hortobagy, visitem zones inundades on centenars d’oques es concentraven en les pastures properes. En una d’ells, entre grups de fumarells carablancs, vam poder trobar alguns fumarells alablancs.
Decidim acabar la jornada visitant zones d’estepes on gaudim d’una espectacular tarda amb grups familiars de gaig blau, falcons cama-rojos, piocs salvatges, trenques i escorxadors alhora que rapinyaires com àguila imperial oriental o arpella cendrosa.
Corb marí pigmeu (Micracarbo pygameus), una espècie habitual a Hongria. Pygmy Cormorant.Picot verd europeu (Picus viridis) jove. European Green WoodpeckerFemella (esq) i mascle (dreta) de falcó cama-roig (Falco vespertinus). Red-footed Falcon
Dia 4
Avui l’objectiu serà visitar els majestuosos boscos caduficolis per intentar sumar un bon nombre de picots i altres ocells forestals
Comencem a la cerca d’una de les espècies que interessen al tour: les mallerengues capnegres. Un cop ens endinsem en zones de coníferes no triguem en detectar, dins de grans grups mixtes (reietons, mallerengues, raspinell pirinenc..), els primers exemplars d’aquesta espècie.
Un excitat picot negre eurosiberià ens acomiada de la zona. D’aquí conduim fins a un altre bosc a la cerca del més localitzat dels picots, el picot garser dorsblanc.
Als pocs minuts s’escolta el típic reclam del picot cendrós, finalment deixant-se veure després d’una breu disputa amb un picot verd europeu. Sembla que li agrada recuperar energia al sol, ja que resta immòbil una bona estona a la capçada d’un arbre per fortuna per nosaltres.
Arbres madurs fan que el picoteig de picot sigui constant i ens fa amena l’espera fins que surti l’estrella del dia. Picots garsers mitjans, grossos i petits són abundants alhora que grups mixtes de passeriformes on apareixen grups nombrosos de mallerengues cuallargues de les races de cap blanc, un ocell d’aspecte tant delicat com espectacular. Finalment dues no massa llunyanes parelles de picot garser dorsblanc es van deixar veure i escoltar a plaer.
En una breu passejada pel mateix bosc, 8 espècies de picots! no està gens malament.
Visitem zones obertes a la cerca de petits migrants on a més de durbecs, cotxes fumades….apareix un inquieta busqueta icterina.
Dinem a peu de rierol on ens visita una família de cueretes torrenteres i al refugi d’una bona ombra.
Posteriorment visitem un espai obert, un mosaic de pastures, camps i fruiters. Els arbres i arbustos estaven plens de fruites i baies fet que atreia petits migrants, especialment tallarols de casquet, xerraires, verderoles… Vista fugaç i veus de tallarol esparverenc, el qual no es deixa veure de forma òptima. Escanejant el cel va sorprendre una fase pàl·lida d’àguila calçada, espècie rara en aquesta àrea.
Afortunadament a hores d’ara ja hem assolit els principals objectius del tour, per tant, el que fem és intentar millorar observacions d’algunes de les espècies i/o fotografiar-les.
Comencem visitant zones periurbanes a la cerca de picot garser siríac i sobretot picot verd europeu, dels quals no tardem en detectar, especialment el picot verd dels quals un jove s’acaba aturant a un pal de formigó donant observacions a plaer. Aquest mosaic d’hàbitats fa que siguin abundants els fringíl·lids i migrants com el tallarol gros.
Una vegada comencen a pujar les temperatures ens desplacem cap als sectors on nidifiquen les àguiles pomerànies, el darrer dels targets que ens quedava per assolir. Als pocs minuts es deixa veure un exemplar que veiem aturar a una vall arbrada. Posteriorment es veuen altres vegades fins dos exemplars. La zona sembla bona per rapinyaires ja que també es deixen veure aligots vespers i altres aus planejadores.
Amb les temperatures de mig matí decidim visitar zones boscoses on segur que es manté més activitat que en zones obertes. Una passejada per un madur bosc caducifoli ens permet gaudir de bones observacions de varis picots garsers mitjans, grossos,petits i grups mixtes de mallerengues.
Nou dinar en restaurants de cuina típica hongaresa per tancar una altre gran matí ornitològic.
Decidim visitar zones boscoses amb arbres grans per cercar el picot negre, el pícid que pitjor havíem observat en aquest viatge. Vàrem escollir bé el lloc de prospecció perquè en pocs minuts ja escoltàvem un picot a curta distancia, el qual ens va acompanyar una bona estona fent volades ràpides a curs distància, mostrant la gran habilitat que tenen per aturar-se a la banda “equivocada dels arbres”.
Una bones copes de casolana palinka per tancar el darrer sopar del viatge.
Picot garser mitjà (Dendrocopos medius). Middle Spotted Woodpecker.
Dia 6
Aquest matí només disposem d’un parell d’hores de birding abans de desplaçar-nos cap a l’aeroport. Per això decidim de fer un tomb tot resseguint un torrent a tocar de l’hospedatge per tal de mirar algun picot més.
Cercant entre els grans arbres veiem un bon ventall d’espècies forestals, entre elles diversos grups mixten a on destaquen mallerengues cuallargues de cap blanc i 4 espècies de pícids destacant uns quants picots verds europeus; a les zones obertes veiem cotxes fumades i papamosques grisos, però sobretot destaca el nombre de mosquiters xiulaires que veiem en aquesta passejada.
Un relaxat i gran final per un extraordinari tour a un país molt recomanable per viatjar per qualsevol ornitòleg.
Llista d’aus observades al llarg del tour:
Faisà — Phaisanus colchinus — Common Pheasant
Cigne mut — Cygnus olor — Mute Swan
Oca comuna — Anser anser — Greylag Goose
Ànec griset — Marecca strepera — Gadwall
Xarxet comú — Anas crecca — Eurasian Teal
Ànec coll-verd — Anas platyrhynchos — Mallard
Xarrasclet — Spatula querquedula — Garganey
Xibec — Netta rufina — Red-crested Pochard
Morell de cap roig — Aythya ferina — Common Pochard
All images in this trip report by Carles Oliver. All rights reserved.
Overview: This tour explores the Western Cape province, a very interesting part of South Africa hosting very interesting endemics, including some only living in this small area of the country and are not to be found anywhere else. This was our 3rd tour exploring the Cape Town province, and despite the weather was not as good as it could be, we got a wonderful array of species including good views not only in the very sought-after endemics but also in some very interesting species at the continent level including Buff-spotted Flufftail, Marsh Owl, Quailfinch, Spectacled Petrel, Secretary Bird and Verreaux’s Eagle. Yes, the weather was a bit challenging, with a couple of days of very low temperatures and extremely strong winds. The weather conditions were neither in our side during the offshore, and we had an extremely quiet day, with nearly no wind. Still, we got a very long list of species, even if some major road works made impossible to explore one of the largest wetlands along the itinerary.
Day 1. Arrived to Cape Town from our connexion flight via Dubai, and we got our first birds of the trip in the parking lot of the airport, where we had both Cape Canary & Cape White-eye in the very first bush that we saw.
It was a lovely evening, and the short transfer to the our accommodation not only provided the group with the first views on the majestic Table Mountain NP, but also with flocks of Western Cattle Egrets and Hadada Ibises. We even got a House Crow, a very uncommon bird in the area! Once in our lodge, we still had a few minutes of birding overlooking a close estuary. There, we got several Egyptian Geese, Brown-hooded & Hartlaub’s Gulls but also Black-necked Stilts, Pied Kingfishers, Common Greenshanks, some magnificent Blacksmith Plovers and the first African Spoonbills, Cape Teals & African Oystercatchers of the tour, plus the only one Black-crowned Night Heron of the trip!
Day 2. After a nice breakfast, we left the accommodation, ready to have the first serious birding of the trip. This first day was devoted to explore a small area of the coast East of Cape Town. A 45 minutes transfer was necessary to reach the first location of the day. There, in a very impressive coastal fynbos (South African Mediterranean scrub land) we had a lovely short walk with a long and interesting list of species including several endemics. White-necked Ravens were flying over the closer houses along with a couple of Rock Kestrels. Down in the scrubs, the explosive song of Cape Grassbirds was the opening for a very interesting list of species. Soon, we had our first family groups of Piping & Red-headed Cisticolas along with Cape Buntings, Cape Wagtail, Cape Robin Chats, Cape Canaries, Olive Thrushes, Yellow Bishop and the extemelly common Southern Double-banded Sunbird and the firsts Rock Martins of the trip. Only a few metres of walk were necessary to have the first Cape Sugarbird, with a very impressive male singing only a few yards away from us. Its rather weird song didn’t distracted us from scanning from new species, and we found a very close Cape Rock Thrush looking for preys in a nearby meadow.
A bit more of walk was required to find the first Orange-breasted Sunbirds of the trip. Here the slope becomes steeper, and impressive rocky outcrops emerge to create a number of solid rock walls higher in the slope. Those fingers and the rocky tongues between them are the habitat for a very special species, and the main reason for us to visit this location. We had some hard scanning in the slopes, trying to locate this very sought-after species. After some minutes, we got nothing but suddenly Ann got a bird. A kind of “dark Mistle Thrush with its tail up” she came to described. No doubt, she had a Cape Rockjumper! Following her indications, it only took us half minute to point the scope on the bird: A wonderful male Cape Rockjumper only for ous eyes! It was mid way up the slope, but it provided long and excellent views on the scope as it kept exploring the rocky, low vegetated mountain. At some point the bird moved down the slope, and our hearts beated hard, facing the perspective of a close view. But it never happened. Soon, the Rockjumper went back up and we kept enjoying the bird whilst scanning for a possible female that never showed out. A couple of Cape Siskins flew higher in the slopes, providing a first (although poor) view for our guests. This small beauty is an endemic species of the coastal scrubland East of Cape Town, and a very important species for the trip! Other very interesting species here included the rarely seen Victorin’s Warbler and the first of many Karoo Prinias, White-rumped Swifts and Familiar Chats.
Cape Sugarbird (Promerops cafer)White-necked Raven (Corvus albicollis)Cape Rock Thrush (Monticola rupestris), a endemic with a really small range.Cape Buntings (Emberiza capensis) are always so obliging!Orange-breasted Sunbird, a superb sunbird with a very small range.Proteas are such a fancy plants!Red-headed Cisticola (Cisticola subruficapilla)Cape Rockjumper (Chaetops frenatus) showing well in the scope and with a poor but clear image. Orange-breasted Sunbird (Anthobaphes violacea) is likely to stop in the many boulders within its habitat.Amazing views on this stunning male Cape Sugarbird as we were leaving our first stop.
After such a phenomenal first stop of our trip, we drove down from the mountains to enjoy a very nice coffee stop and (probably) the most beautiful muffins in the area! Close by, a very attractive botanical garden was waiting for us. A 30′ short walk around there was enough to discover a very nice selection of birds. Swee Waxbills were probably the most sought-after species at this spot. One pair of this little jewels were having a bath as we arrived, and we got amazing views on them. Along with this tiny birds, the walk around the garden offered us very nice looks in Fiscal Flycatchers, Amethyst Sunbirds, obliging Cape Batis and Forest Canary. Cape Bulbuls were everywhere and we had the first glimpse on Sombre Greenbuls. Here we also got the first Streaky-headed Seedeasters, Brimstone Canaries & Pin-tailed Whydahs of the trip, and a couple of Black Sawwings. Soaring higher in the sky, we got Greater Striped Swallows and White-rumped Swifts but also the first 3 Jackal Buzzard of the trip and 1 African Black Swift.
From here, a very short drive lead us to a colony of African Penguins. It is always surprising to see these wonderful birds evolving in the shallow water or simply resting in the white sand. This colony is right in the middle of a town. Do you imagine to have a short walk along the coast right next to your house when a dozen of penguins just get out of the wader to colonise that beach? This is exactly what it happened in this place, and I would pay to see the faces of the neighbours back in those days! So, now the colony has dozens of nests and a healthy population of this endangered species. We got amazing views, and also got good views on African Oystercatcher, Greater Crested Tern and a surprisingly close Bank Cormorant.
The always impressive Swee Waxbill (Coccopygia melanotis)We had really close views on Cape Batis (Batis capensis)Fynbos in full bossom.This African Black Oystercatcher (Haematopus moquini) decided to have a bath right in front of us.Colony of Cape Cormorants. Please note the White-breasted Cormorant in the top and some Crowned Cormorants in the left side. African Penguins (Spheniscus demersus) arriving to the shore.African Penguins drying out right after getting out of the ocean. African Penguin enjoying the life!
From here, we drove back to Cape Town to have some time in the famous Strandfrontein Wetlands. This is a large wetland with a number of large lagoons and interesting channels. The area was not as fulfilled with waterfowl as in previous trips, but still produced a nice list of birds. Along with interesting flocks of Greater & Lesser Flamingoes and Cape Teals, we also had the firsts flocks of Spur-winged Geese. Cape Shovelers and Red-billed Ducks were also common. A single Southern Pochard was seen in flight, and a few Black-necked & Little Grebes were seen in one of the larger ponds. A small flock of 7 Fulvous Whistling Ducks had been in the place for weeks (a local rarity) and was spending the afternoon feeding along with Red-knobbed. Here we also got the first Cape Sparrows of the trip, just when a Black Crake crossed the road as a ghost!
In the channels we got good views on both Little Rush and Lesser Swamp Warblers and Levaillant’s Cisticola showed well despite the strong wind. An African Marsh Harrier was crossing the sky just went a Burchell’s Coucal was heard calling in a thicket nearby. In our way out, we had a short stop to watch the first Cape Spurfowls of the trip.
From here we went back to our accommodation to enjoy a nice evening meal before having a nice rest.
Cape Teal (Anas capensis) is, by far, my favourite duck in this region.Cape Shoveler (Spatula smithii), a common duck around Cape Town.Fulvous Whistling Ducks (Dendrocygna viduata) are a scarcity in the Southern tip of Africa.Lesser (left) & Greater (right) Flamingoes feeding side by side.
Day 3. An early start was necessary to connect with our boat, leaving the harbour right after sunset. Whilst waiting for the boat to be ready, we got nice views on a Black-headed Heron roosting in the harbour and a Peregrine Falcon flying high over the bay.
It was a sunny and quiet day. Unfortunately we had a day with almost no wind, and this affected seriously the amount and diversity of sea birds during the offshore. Still, got a number of goodies, and we were really lucky to see 4 Humpback Whales in a superb manner. They jumped out of the sea several times not far from us, and one of them was splashing its fin against the water, creating a impressive sound all around the bay.
While enjoying the whales we also got the first parties of African Penguins and Brown Fur Seals leaving the security of their colonies to explore their hunting areas. Several flocks of Common Terns and Greater Crested Terns were also seen here.
Soon, we were outside the bay, and after enjoying a stop right by the Cape of Good Hope, we kept going South. Soon, we got the first Shy Albatrosses of the trip, along with some White-chinned Petrels and Subantarctic Skuas.
The sea was extremely plain and we only got the first flocks of seabirds around a large trawler. Here we got tens of Sooty Shearwaters but also Black-browed Albatrosses and we were also lucky to find a few Great Shearwaters,1 Sabine’s Gull flying quite high and a superb Northern Giant Petrel that was following the ship. Here, the only Arctic Tern of the trip was seen as well. A second trawler was not far away from us, and it was mandatory to take a look. We approached this second vessel from the back, and we were lucky find some good birds there. First it was the only one Indian Yellow-nosed Albatross of the day, this is a quite common species, but the conditions were probably too calm for them to move. A few minutes later we also found a nice Spectacled Petrel moving along with the many White-chinned’s, and at least 4 Cape Petrels. A few Cape Gannets were fishing here, providing good views to the group. Several Shy & Black-broweds Albatrosses were sitting on the water, and we enjoyed long views on these amazing beasts. We still had some time here, but we only had a small flock of 4 Sabine’s Gulls as an interesting sighting.
In the way back to the harbour we still had time to enjoy on a variety of Cormorants, including Crowned Cormorants, large flocks of Cape Cormorants and also a small colony of the critically endangered Bank Cormorant that was sharing a large granite outcrop with a Brown Fur Seals colony.
While crossing the bay we enjoyed several Humpback Whales! White-chinned Petrels (Procellaria aequinoctialis) are common around Cape Town.Brown Fur Seal.Shy Albatross (Thalassarche cauta)Northern Giant Petrel approaching the trawler. Northern Giant Petrel (Macronetes halli)Immature Black-browed Albatross (Thalassarche melanophris)Shy Albatross (Thalassarche cauta)Subantarctic or Brown Skua (Stercorarius antarcticus)Cape Gannet (Morus capensis)Full adult Shy AlbatrossSabine’s Gull (Xema sabini)Great Shearwater (Puffinus griseus)Brown Fur Seal enjoying a sun bath.Critically endangered Bank Cormorants (Phalacrocorax neglectus) sitting on its nests.
After a nice lunch in the bay, we drove to a nearby lagoon. A short walk there produced Red-knobbed Coots but also Little Grebes and the first views of Black-winged Kite, Fork-tailed Drongo, African Darter, Whiskered Tern, White-throated Swallow and Alpine Swift. From here we just when back to our accommodation for an early end of the day.
Day 4. Leaving our accommodation, we went to the Table Mountain slopes before leaving Cape Town. Our first stop of the day was devoted to explore a small stream surrounded by interesting woodlands. Just leaving the vehicle we got a couple of Black Goshawks flying over area. A short walk here produced really good looks on scaped Bronze Mannikins, Sombre Greenbuls, Rameron Pigeons and Levaillant’s Cisticolas. Here we also got really good views on Little Rush Warblers but the main target of the stop was living low in the rank vegetation. After some wait in a quiet spot, a wonderful Buff-spotted Flufftail came out of the dense vegetation a walk right in front of me, only a couple of metres away from us! Unfortunately, not everybody in the group got to see the bird so we decided to go for a walk and, after a while, we came back to same spot to try the bird again. And we were double lucky that day since the Flufftail came out again for another short walk and this time we all enjoyed great views on the bird walking on the mud and even jumping on a log!
From here we went to the famous Kristenbosch National Botanical Garden. This is a well known birding spot in Cape Town and host a good variety of birdlife along with an impressive selection of the rich flora of the region. Unfortunately we went to visit the place on Sunday, mid morning, and the garden was really crowd. Still, we got a nice set of species including Cape Batis, Forest Canary & Forest Buzzard. The more dense areas were good to see species of the tangles including Lemon Dove, African Dusky Flycatcher, Cardinal Woodpecker and African Paradise Flycatcher. Here we also got good views on Southern Boubou and we heard some of the few Common Chaffinches still living the area after they were introduced by the British 150 years ago. Our walk around produced also good views on Cape White-eyes, African Harrier-Hawk and really good views on a roosting Spotted Eagle Owl.
Little Rush Warbler (Bradypterus baboecala), a shy inhabitant of the rank vegetation.Levaillant’s Cisticola (Cisticola tinniens), a common inhabitant of moist vegetation and wetlands.Average leave photobombed by a Buff-spotted Flufftail (Sarothrura elegans)Olive Woodpecker (Dendropicos griseocephalus) working hard for food.Dusky African Flycatcher (Muscicapa adusta ), is a fairly common bird in a variety of woodlands.Spotted Eagle Owl (Bubo africanus) roosting in the Botanical Garden.Fork-tailed Drongo (Dricurus assimilus)
After leaving the botanical garden it was time to leave the city and go North. Before having a short stop for lunch we had a stop on Birkenhead Drive Wetland. By then the weather was turning, and the sunny day was already becoming cloudy, and windy. Here we got 2 Maccoa Ducks and 1 White-backed Duck but also Common Greenshanks along with commoner species including a couple of Yellow-billed Kites, Southern Fiscals and the firsts Southern Masked Weaver & Southern Red Bishops of trip nesting in the reedbeds.
We kept moving North in our way to the West Coast National Park. But before arriving we had a stop by the highway. Here we got a gorgeous Black-winged Kite hunting really close to us, the first views on Southern Grey Sparrows, 3 Bokmakierie, Grey-backed Cisticolas, 4 Pied Starlings, 1 Jackal Buzzard and a wonderful Grey-winged Francolin showing in the top of some rocks. Here, we also got a singing Common Quail. Once inside the West Coast National Park the weather deteriorated really fast, and fastly became a windy, cold afternoon. We also got some rain and birding was really low. We had a short walk exploring the fabulous coastal scrub lands typical of this protected site, but bird activity was poor and we only got 1 Chestnut-vented Warbler, 1 Karoo Larks, a distant Black Harrier, 2 White-backed Mousebirds 1 Cape Longclaw deep inside the thickets. A bit disappointed for the low bird activity we decided to have a short drive. We got lucky with close views in a couple of Grey-winged Francolins. It was becoming really windy, and the light was not good to try to spot small birds in the thickets, so we tried a walk through the marshes to one of the outlooks. Despite the bad weather here we got good views on Kittlitz’s Plovers, Little Stints, Black-winged Stilts, Curlew Sandpipers, 1 Marsh Sandpiper and the bell ringed for us and we got to see the White-rumped Sandpiper that had been hanging around the area!
Once in the outlook, we got a nice selection of waders including Bar-tailed Godwits, Grey Plovers, Sanderlings, Lesser Flamingoes, African Oystercatchers, Common Ringed Plovers, 1 Sandwitch Tern and several Black-headed Herons. The weather became really bad at some point, and we decided to go to our accommodation to have some rest and a good dinner.
Black-winged Kite (Elanus caeruleus) with a prey. Chestnut-vented Warbler (Curruca subcoerulea), a common inhabitant in the coastal scrubs.Cape Spurfowl (Ptermistis capensis), an extremely common around Capte Town.
Day 5. This morning as windy as it was the evening before, but we had a promising sun shining in the sky. Windy. In the morning we went back to the West Coast National Park, but the wing was so strong that we had difficulties to get out of the vehicle. Our first drive produced nice views on a Southern Black Korhaan displaying. We got long views son the bird, and while enjoying the view we were surprised by two other males flying around. A bit further, another gorgeous Black Korhaan was standing right in the lane, providing stunning views! It was sunny, but windy, and the Cape Berg Adders felt comfortable in this weather. During the morning we 4 of them crossing the road or taking advantage of the warm tarmac.
We drove to the Northern area of the parc, hoping for some shelter against the wind. And we were lucky. In that area we had a nice walk in an nice area of scrubs. Here, Karoo Bush Robins and Karoo Prinias looked like being everywhere, and we also had really good views on one singing White-throated Canary and some restless Malachite Sunbirds. Walking down to an outlook dominating the bay, we also got great views on some White-fronted Plovers. Unfortunately, the outlook was not sheltered against the wind, and birdwatching from there was a bit uncomfortable. Still, we managed a good selection of bird including a couple of Caspian Terns and 1 Subantarctic Tern in summer plumage along with several Common Terns, always a treat!
Back to the vehicle, the wind became even stronger, making any birding quite hard. A couple of Black Harriers scouting the scrubs was the best sight in our way out to the West Coast National Park. The wind kept extremely strong all along the afternoon. Still, our transfer to Ceres produced a number of interesting birds, including the first Red-capped Larks, Capped Wheatears & African Pipits for the trip.
A few miles inland, we stopped in the highway itself. In the distance, a pair of Blue Cranes were walking in a field. Along with them, a very young Blue Crane was walking with them, picking on the ground and the grass, and struggling to follow their parents as they were looking for food in the meadow. This was a wonderful and highly unexpected view and in fact it came to end our day. When arriving to our accommodation the wind was still really strong, and we decided to spare the rest of the afternoon resting a bit.
African Pipit (Anthus cinnamomeus)Two different close ups on Black Koorhans (Afrotis afraoides).White-throated Canary (Crithagra leucoptera), a scarce inhabitant in coastal thickets.White-fronted Plover (Charadrius marginatus)Cape Berg Adder (Bitis atropos) offered us impressive views!Cape Weaver (Ploceus capensis) displaying in our lunch stop.
Day 6. After a couple of days with strong winds and sparse rain, the sun raised in a quiet ambient. When we left our accommodation it was a splendid morning with a mild temperature. We covered the short distance to the karoo enjoying the voluptuous landscape along the road, but also some good birds including the first White-faced Whistling Ducks of the tour, Red-billed Ducks and the only small flock of Blue-billed Teals of the trip! A small herd of Red Hartebeests crossed the road, followed soon after by a couple of Steenboks and a Cape Grey Mongoose.
Our first proper stop was just by road. Even if we had some traffic (and its associated dust), the birding was superb. Here, a rocky outcrop is broken by a small stream, being the perfect place to get a good array of species. Small parties of Lark-like Buntings were moving everywhere and in only 5 minutes we got a fabulous list of birds including Layard’s Warbler, Common (African) Reed Warbler, Common Waxbills, Cape Penduline Tit singing from the top of small bush along the stream but also Long-billed Crombec (also referred as Cape Crombec), the first Hamerkop of the trip, several Karoo Prinias and Grey-backed Cisticolas, 2 Mountain Chats, 7 Black-headed Canaries moving on the ground and in the lower flowers, and even a Karoo Thrush. But the very best was probably a nice Verreaux’s Eagle showing up in the sky for a couple of minutes. Even if it was not really close, it was a wonderful sight!
From here we drove deeper in the karoo and a second stop produced an even longer list, with really good looks on Fairy Flycatchers, Karoo Emeromela, Nicholson’s Pipit, 1 Fiscal Flycatcher, Sickle-winged Chats, the first Pale-Chanting Goshawk of the trip, 1 Booted Eagle, 1 Karoo Chat, restless Malachite Sunbirds, several Cape Buntings and Karoo Scrub Robins, 1 singing African Hoopoe and the only 2 Dusky Sunbirds of the trip! Still, and despite our efforts, we failed to find any Cinnamon-breasted Warbler..
From here we had some drive through the wonderful karoo landscape, with stops to enjoy both Karoo & Sickle-winged Chats but also Thick-billed & Karoo Larks. We arrived to an outlook from where we a large lagoon could be seen. Several Southern Shelducks were feeding there along with other waterfowl but also Greater Flamingoes, Whiskered Terns, 4 Marsh Sandpipers, Ruffs and other waders. A small flock of European Bee-eaters move on, calling around us, even if we never saw them. The bush around was also well alive, with several chats moving around and also our only one Karoo Long-billed Lark and 1 Common Ostrich. Suddenly, a Greater Kestrel showed up in the sky, moving a couple of Yellow Canaries and 1 Barn Swallow.
Our final stop in the karoo was devoted to new rocky outcrop. Here we got excellent views on both Namaqua & Rufous-eared Warblers as they were very active in the scrubs but also our first Mountain Wheatear (also referred as Mountain Chat), 1 Ant-eating Chat and 4 very approachable Spike-heeled Larks. In the way back, 4 Pale-chanting Goshawks had been working in a remarkable spectacle just for us. A young bird was trying to compete for the hunting territory of a pair of these birds of prey, and along 15 minutes we had very close views on an air battle, with these acrobats fighting hard to keep their opponents out of its territory. It was a great way to end our morning exploration!
Back to our accommodation and after enjoying a midday break, we went to explore a nearby open lands. Very little was seen out of some Little Swifts, African StonechatsBanded Martins and passing Purple Heron. But right before dinner we had superb views on 2 Spotted Eagle Owls singing from the top of our own accommodation! What a way to end our day!
Steenbok (Raphicerus campestris) in the karoo.The always impressive Verreaux’s Eagle (Aquila verreauxii)Large-billed Lark Rufous-eared Warbler (Malcorus pectoralis) showed superbly for our group!Spike-heeled Lark (Chersomanes albofasciata) provided intimate views!Great to see the complex design of this 2nd year Pale Chanting Goshawk (Melierax canorus)Full adult Pale Chanting Goshawk Typical karoo habitatFairy Flycatcher (Stenostira scita), a restless species that favours large and dense bushA small flock of Black-headed Canaries (Serinus alario) up in the slopes.
Day 7. After a succulent breakfast, we kept exploring the area around Ceres, but this time we headed to the slopes. Here, we walked up a famous lane in the hope to contact with another endemic; the Ground Woodpecker. The short walk was great and we managed to have good views on Cape Siskins, Orange-breasted Sunbirds and Booted Eagles. Still, we only heard a distant Ground Woodpecker and we failed to see this key species.
A second stop was made in a mountain pass West of Ceres. Here we did have a number of minor stops, hoping to find the rather scarce Protea Seedeater (or Protea Canary), after a number of non productive stops we finally found one of them perched close to other Canaries! It was already midday and quite warm, and this final victory came along with really good views on a pair of Klipspringers resting on the boulders close to the lane.
From here we started the transfer to Bontebok National Park. In our way, apart from a lovely lunch, we enjoyed with the several Common Ostriches and crossing some nice habitat we picked up small concentrations of Blue Cranes and also a nice Common Buzzard (from the vulpinus race and often referred as a separate species; Steppe Buzzard).
Klipspringer (Oreotragus oreotragus) Small flocks of Blue Cranes were feeding along our way
We arrived to Bontebok National Park during the afternoon, a good couple of hours before sunset. Almost immediately we got Crowned Lapwings and Cape Crows, two species that were escaping from us during the previous days. A game drive around the park produced soon small herds of stunning Bonteboks but also some scarce Mountain Zebras and Red Hartebeest. Bokmakieries looked like being everywhere in the thickets, but the very first amazing sight of the afternoon was an obliging juvenile Montagu’s Harrier that we found only a few meters away from our van! Personally, it has been the closer views on this species ever and one of the highlights of the tour!
As the afternoon advanced, Cape Clapper Larks started showing off and displaying all around us. Here we also picked up the first Cloud Cisticolas of the trip. The extensive grasslands of the park host a thriving population of Denham’s Bustards, and soon we enjoyed excellent views in these giants, with one male displaying and up to 5 birds flying at close range. In one of these nice stops to enjoy the Bustards, we got 2 Quailfinches moving out from the lane. As always with this species, it was a fast view, but soon after we got 2 more Qualfinches flying really close to us, providing proper looks! Same birds? Hard to know. We started moving out, but we had to stop because of the many Cape Robin-Chats, White-backed Mousebirds and Pin-tailed Whydahs along the way. Here, a couple of Spotted Thick-knees crossed the lane, and a bit beyond two Black Harriers provided good looks as well. But the best was still to come, in our way back, a Black-winged Kite was harassing a bird, and what was our surprise when we saw that the Kite was actually harassing a Marsh Owl! We were lucky, and a minor track lead us right by where the action was going on. And yes, a pair of amazing Marsh Owls were patrolling its territory right in front us. Unfortunately they were not as close as they were only one minute ago, but we all still had a great views in these incredible creatures. Marsh Owls are extremely scarce in Western Cape, with only a handful of known territories, and they are actually a description species for the area!
Back to the vehicles, we just drove to the gate of the National Park, but before leaving we found a nest of Black-winged Kites. The nest was so close and low that it was possible to see the chicks on the nest even without bins. Cleverly, we decided to keep going immediately and to do not disturb them. From here we just went to our accommodation to enjoy a wonderful dinner and rest.
Young Montagu’s Harrier (Circus pygargus), a nice way to start time in Bontebok National Park.Cape Clapper Lark (Corypha apiata), a common lark moisty grasslands.A taste of the great views that we had on Denham’s Bustards.Bontebok (Damaliscus pygargus), for me, the most beautiful antelope in Africa.A pair of Spotted Thick-knee (Burhinus capensis) was a rather unexpected sight Red Hartebeest (Alcephalus busephalus caama) in golden hourMarsh Owl (Asio capensis) came out from its day roosting place just in time!
Day 8. The day started foggy and rainy in our accommodation, and our pre-breakfast walk produced little out of a distant Red-chested Cuckoo, 1 Tambourine Dove, Bar-throated Apalises and Rameron Pigeons. After breakfast, we drove South in the way to have some birding in the well known Agulhas Plains, half way down to De Hoop Nature Reseve.
Agulhas Plains was as great as always. The rain vanished and with the sun and the mild temperatures came the birds. The area was full of Red-capped Larks, African Pipits, Capped Wheatears, African Stonechats and Red-billed Queleas. Large-billed Larks were singing along the fences. We were also lucky to get at least 3 Agulhas Long-billed Larks and a minimum of 5 Cape Vultures, an endangered species with only a couple of colonies in the Western Cape. Here we also got good numbers of Blue Cranes feeding in the harvested areas along with the firsts Zitting Cisticolas of the trip. Pearl-breasted Swallows were patrolling the streams, and small flocks of the tiny Grey-backed Sparrow Larks were also enjoyed. Once closer to the nature reserve we started enjoying the first mammals, with small herds of Springboks and Elands roaming the slopes while the first Denham’s Bustards of the day became evident.
Rameron Pigeon (Columba arquatix), a common beauty in many parts of Africa.Sombre Greenbuls (Andropadus importunus) are far easier to hear than to seeAfrican Black Duck (Anas sparsa), often a shy species.The very impressive landscape in our accommodation.Capped Wheatear (Oenanthe pileata), a common inhabitant of extensive farmingLarge-billed Lark (Galerida magnirostris) close upPin-tailed Whydah (Vidua macroura) is not scarce at allWe were lucky to have amazing views on Agulhas Long-billed Lark (Certhilauda brevirostris)Blue Crane (Anthropoides paradiseus), what a smart creatures they are!Southern Red Bishop (Euplectes orix) a fairly common bird in the open lands.Cape Vulture (Gyps cropotheres) has become really scarce in the Western Cape province.
The Hoop Nature Reserve is an excellent place to enjoy wildlife, and our time in the reserve included close views on Bonteboks, Mountain Zebras, Grey Rheboks and Yellow Mongoose. In terms of birdlife, African Fish Eagle, Plain-backed Pipit, Speckled Mousebird and Great Crested Grebe were all new for the trip,
Back to the plains, we had further and closer views on Denham’s Bustard (yes, I love them!) and we were surprised to see a Common Quail running the lane right in front off our van! A bit beyond, a small pond and the meadows around produced Grey-winged Francolin, Three-banded Plover, 2 Spotted Thick-knee and, of course, Blacksmith Plovers.
Back to the accommodation, we got a Fiery-necked Nightjar in the way to dinner. The bird was sitting on the dart road. After dinner, we tried to relocate the bird but, despite at least two males were singing around, we never saw it again..
Bokmakeire (Telophorus zeylonus), a superb bird all along!Mountain Zebra (Equus zebra)Yellow Mongoose (Cynictis penicillata)Denham’s Bustard (Neotis denhami) displaying.Black Harrier (Circus maurus), the master of the coastal fynbos
Day 9. Last day of the trip. During the night we got some rain, and our pre-breakfast walk was a bit muddy, but productive. In the garden of the accommodation we got nice views on the only Grey-hooded Kingfisher of the trip. Greater Double-collared Sunbirds were common around the accommodation, along with commoner species including Sombre Greenbuls, Bar-throated Apalis, Cape Sugarbird, Jackal Buzzard and Cape Batis. To find the singing Klaa’s Cuckoo was a bit more difficult, but at end everybody in the group enjoyed good views.
After breakfast we decided a last minute visit to the Bontebok National Park. We only had one hour but we were regarded not only with the best views on Grey-winged Francolins of the trip but also with a very nice Secretary Bird hunting in the grasslands. Even if the bird was never close, it was a great way to end the trip. This was one of the main targets for some of our guests, and until that moment it was escaping from us!
In our way back to Cape Town, our planning still included a visit into a coastal tidal plain, but some major works in the highway 2 produced long queues and we finally decided to head directly to the airport, ending a wonderful 3rd issue of our special birding trip around Cape Town.
Very, very looking forward coming back in 2025! Join us. Please contact us info@barcelonabirdingpoint.com
This Klaa’s Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx klaas) was singing around our accommodation
Southern Masked Weaver (Ploceus velatus) Greater Double-banded Sunbirds (Cinnyris afer) were moving along with Cape Sugarbirds. Suprisingly, we only had 1 Brown-hooded Kingfisher (Alcyon albiventris) during the trip. Grey-winged Francolin (Scleroptila afra) in our way out of Bontebok NP.
List of birds seen during the trip
Common Ostrich (Struthio camelus)
Egyptian Goose (Alopochen aegyptiacus)
Spur-winged Goose (Plectropterus gambensis)
South African Shelduck (Tadorna cana)
White-faced Whistling Duck (Dendrocygna viduata)
Fulvous Whistling Duck (Dendrocygna tricolor)
Maccoa Duck (Oxyura maccoa)
Cape Shoveler (Spatula smithii)
Blue-billed Teal (Spatula hottentota)
Red-billed Duck (Anas erythrorhyncha)
African Black Duck (Anas sparsa)
Yellow-billed Duck (Anas undulata)
Cape Teal (Anas capensis)
White-backed Duck (Thalassornis leuconotus)
Southern Pochard (Aythya erythrophthalma)
Helmeted Guineafowl (Numida meleagris)
Cape Spurfowl (Ptermistis capensis)
Grey-winged Francolin (Scleroptila afra)
Common Quail (Coturnix coturnix)
Fiery-necked Nightjar (Caprimulgus pectoralis)
Little Swift (Apus affinis)
White-rumped Swift (Apus caffer)
African Black Swift (Apus barbatus)
Alpine Swift (Apus melba)
Denham’s Bustard (Neotis denhami)
Southern Black Korhaan (Eupodotis vigorsii)
Burchell’s Coucal (Centropus burchellii) — heard only
Red-chested Cuckoo (Cuculus solitarius)
Klaas’s Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx caprius)
Speckled Pigeon (Colunba guinea)
Rameron Pigeon (Columba arquatix)
Feral Pigeon (Columba livia spp)
Namaqua Dove (Oena capensis)
Ring-necked Dove (Streptopelia capicola)
Red-eyed Dove (Streptopelia semitorquata)
Laughing Dove (Streptopelia senegalensis)
Lemon Dove (Aplopelia larvata)
Buff-spotted Flufftail (Sarothrura elegans)
Black Crake (Amaurornis flavirostris)
Red-knobbed Coot (Fulica cristata)
Eurasian Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus)
Blue Crane (Anthropoides paradisea)
Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
Black-necked Grebe (Podiceps nigricollis)
Great Crested Grebe (Podiceps cristatus)
Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber)
Lesser Flamingo (Phoeniconaias minor)
Spotted Thick-knee (Burhinus capensis)
African Black Oystercatcher (Haematopus moquini)
Black-winged Stilt (Himantopus himantopus)
Pied Avocet (Recurvirostra avosetta)
Grey Plover (Pluvialis squatarola)
Crowned Lapwing (Vanellus coronatus)
Blacksmith Lapwing (Vanellus arnatus)
Common Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula)
White-fronted Plover (Charadrius marginatus)
Kittlitz’s Plover (Charadrius pecuarius)
Three-banded Plover (Charadrius tricollaris)
Common Greenshank (Tringa nebularia)
Marsh Sandpiper (Tringa stagnatilis)
Bar-tailed Godwit (Limosa lapponica)
Common Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)
Eurasian Curlew (Numenius arquata)
Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres)
Sanderling (Calidris alba)
Little Stint (Calidris minuta)
Curlew Sandpiper (Calidris ferruginea)
White-rumped Sandpiper (Calidris fuscicollis)
Grey-headed Gull (Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus)
Hartlaub’s Gull (Chroicocephalus hartlaubii)
Cape Gull (Larus dominicanus vetula)
Sabine’s Gull (Xenus sabini)
Caspian Tern (Hyproprogne caspia)
Great Crested Tern (Thalasseus bergii)
Sandwich Tern (Thalasseus sandvicensis)
Arctic Tern (Sterna paradisaea)
Common Tern (Sterna hirundo)
Antarctic Tern (Sterna vitatta)
Whiskered Tern (Chlidonias hybridus)
Subantarctic Skua (Stercorarius antarcticus)
African Penguin (Spheniscus demersus)
Shy Albatross (Thalassarche cauta)
Black-browed Albatross (Thalassarche melanorphys)
Indian Yellow-nosed Albatross (Thalassarche carteri)
Northern Giant Petrel (Macronetes galli)
Cape Petrel (Daption capense)
White-chinned Petrel (Procellaria aequinoctialis)
Spectacled Petrel (Procellaria conspicillata)
Great Shearwater (Ardenna gravis)
Sooty Shearwater (Ardenna grisea)
Cape Gannet (Morus capensis)
African Darter (Anhinga rufa)
Long-tailed Cormorant (Microcarbo africanus)
Crowned Cormorant (Microcarbo coronatus)
White-breasted Cormorant (Phalacrocorax lucidus)
Bank Cormorant (Phalacrocorax neglectus)
Cape Cormorant (Phalacrocorax capensis)
Great White Pelican (Pelecanus onocratus)
African Sacred Ibis (Threskiornis aethiopicus)
Hadada Ibis (Bostrychia hagedash)
Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus)
African Spoonbill (Platalea alba)
Black-crowned Night Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax)
Western Cattle Egret (Bubulcus)
Little Egret (Egretta garzetta)
Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea)
Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea)
Black-headed Heron (Ardea melanocephala)
Hamerkop (Scopus umbretta)
Secretary Bird (Sagittarius serpentarius)
Yellow-billed Kite (Milvus aegyptius)
Black-shouldered Kite (Elanus caeruleus)
African Fish Eagle (Haliaeetus vocifer)
Cape Vulture (Gyps coprotheres)
African Marsh Harrier (Circus ranivorus)
Black Harrier (Circus maurus)
Montagu’s Harrier (Circus pygargus)
Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk (Melierax canorus)
Black Goshawk (Accipiter melanoleucus)
African Harrier-Hawk (Polyboroides typus)
Common (Steppe) Buzzard (Buteo buteo vulpinus)
Forest Buzzard (Buteo trizonatus)
Jackal Buzzard (Buteo rufofuscus)
Verreaux’s Eagle (Aquila verreauxii)
Booted Eagle (Aquila pennata)
Marsh Owl (Asio capensis)
Spotted Eagle Owl (Bubo africanus)
Speckled Mousebird (Colius striatus)
White-backed Mousebird (Colius colius)
African Hoopoe (Upupa africana) — heard only
Pied Kingfisher (Ceryle rudis)
Brown-hooded Kingfisher (Halcyon albiventris)
Ground Woodpecker (Geocolaptes olivaceus) — heard only
Tour leader: Carles Oliver (Barcelona to Lisbon) & Sergi Sales (Sofia to Cyprus)
All images by Carles Oliver. All rights reserved.
Overview: Our very first Southern Europe Odyssey has been a very funny and brave adventure. Visiting 5 European countries and 9 islands (3 in the Mediterranean; 6 in the Atlantic Ocean), we have enjoyed a very long list of European and Macaronesian endemics and specialities. The tour has been divided in different sections so our guests could join the part they were most interested about. Very looking forward to go on again with this crazy adventure!
Day 1. From Barcelona to Picos de Europa. Our Odyssey through South Europe, an ambitious program visiting 5 countries and 9 islands started in a very epic way; a 3:00am pick up to try to catch up with some nocturnal birds. Very close from the Barcelona airport we had a first stop. It is a small area of farming with some lines of trees, some of them with several holes. Here we started looking for European Scops Owl. It was clearly colder than expected. During the previous weeks we had low temperatures clearly below average in Catalonia, with strong snow falls up in the Pyrenees. That morning, the temperatura drop to only 7ºC!
Along the next half an hour we tried to have any view on the Scops Owls living in the area, but little success. We heard them as we heard Little Owl and Western Barn Owl but we no success to see any of them. But the situation turned on when a close a Scops Owl suddenly came to us from the inside the canopies and landed only by the path, 150 centimetres high! We all had excellent views on the bird and a couple of shots before the bird came back deep inside the vegetation. Still excited about such good looks, we heard a second bird calling down the path,, very low in the trees and only a few meters away from us. A few second after that we got the bird singing in the torch, allowing not only really good views but also a number of shots! Very happy for this success we drove up the valley to try a second bird. By the time we arrived the raising was in the sky, and the first Nightingales were singing. It was still cold and a bit early in the season so I was not very sure that the whole thing could work. But it did, and at the second attempt a very nice Red-necked Nightjar emerged from the shadows and flew directly above the group to show the large white markings in the tail and a wings, and the lovely orangish coloration in the underwing coverts. The bird was singing, probably right arrived from Africa and busy to mark its territory!
Eurasian Scops Owl (Otus scops) was a major target for many in the group, and we enjoyed great views next to Barcelona. Image by tour leader Carles Oliver.
Very happy with this excellent sight, we drove West, living behind Barcelona, that was only about to wake up in another busy day. It was about 6:30 when we stop in a quiet service station to have some breakfast. A selection of coffees, orange juices and potato omelette was served and we had some time for relax after the early start. Here the group had also the chance to meet Sergi Sales, the leader for the Eastern part of the Odyssey as he was on his way to lead a day trip out of Barcelona with a birder from Japan.
From here we kept going West for about 30 miles, and our first birding stop with daylight was devoted to a lovely patch of traditional farming. Here, the Catalan Government is taking efforts to manage the habitat and preserve some spots for the very endangered Little Bustard. At the first stop of the van, we got excellent scope views on a displaying Little Bustard, and during the next 90 minutes we had 6 different males chasing each other or simply singing from their lekking positions. A Montagu’s Harrier female was also one of the first birds for us, but even before that we got a distant male Red-footed Falcon sitting down on some dead branches. Certainly a very good start for the trip! Several Calandra Larks and Corn Buntings were seen, as White Storks, Stock Dove and Western Jackdaws were. We kept moving through this great habitat, adding good looks on specialities like Stone Curlew and Iberian Grey Shrikes but also migratory birds including Northern Wheatear and the always very nice looking Whinchats. Common Kestrels, Marsh Harriers, Red Kites and Black Kites were all seen, and we also had time for a short visit to a nesting colony of Lesser Kestrels, where we had some nice scope views on the birds. But probably one of the best birds on this location was the nice pair of Great Spotted Cuckoos chasing each other quite high in the sky! A quite unexpected view. Here, we also got the first Short-toed Eagle for the trip.
We could stay there longer, but we were committed with some extra specialties along our long way to Picos de Europa. Our next movement was to visit another area inside the Catalan dry lands. Here we got nice views on both Black Wheatears & Black-eared Wheatears plus Spotless Starling, Thekla Lark and some lovely views on European Turtle Doves. The area was also rich on Finches and Greenfinch, Serin and European Goldfinch were all seen before we stoped by a puddle. Here another singing Common Nightingale was waiting for us, and we got nice views on the first Sardinian Warblers of the trip along with migratory Pied & Spotted Flycatchers. Again, European Turtle Doves were present in the area, joined this time by European Bee-eaters and Griffons flying over our heads. In the water, only a Eurasian Moorhen was seen.
Little Bustard (Tetrax tetrax) landing on its lek spot in the Catalan steppes.Little Bustard (Tetrax tetrax), a species which dramatically decreasing in Western Europe. That morning we were very lucky to have close views on Stone Curlews (Burhinus oedicnemus).One of the two Great Spotted Cuckoos (Clamator glandarius) that flew over us.Iberian Grey Shrike (Lanius meridionalis).Black Wheatear (Oenanthe leucura) showed distant but very well in our stop at Mas de Melons NR.
From here we had some solid drive West, with some comfort stops in the way. Our next birding stop didn’t come until mid afternoon, in the border between The Basque Country and Castille. Here we spent some time in a riverside forest. It was slightly windy and the bird activity was light. Some Greenfinches were feeding in the area along with Eurasian Blackcap. But a short walk around the area fastly put us in contact with our main target here. One Iberian Chiffchaff was singing low in the riparian vegetation and a few moments later we were all enjoying wonderful views on the bird! During about 5 minutes, the bird was singing around us and flickering the winds, showing way better we were expecting. Along the next 20 minutes we saw at least 4 Iberian Chiffchaffs and also got really good looks on Cetti’s Warbler, Eurasian Wren, Eurasian Goldfinches, Great Tits and a family of Short-toed Treecreepers moving in the thick trunks along the Ebro River. Along the banks of the river, a Common Sandpiper completed the list for the place.
From here, we still had to cover one hour of drive to our final destination at the heart of Picos de Europa.
Iberian Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus ibericus), one of the most sought-after species for some of the tour participants!
Day 2. From Picos de Europa to Belchite. After enjoying a great breakfast we drove into the mountains. It looked like a quiet morning, and the towering landscape allowed us to connect with some Griffon Vultures in our way to Fuente Dé cable car. We arrived earlier than expected, and we gather at the access queue. A powerful brise started to blow, and our concerns about the cable car being open that morning started to arise. In the queue we picked up Coal Tit, Goldcrest, Eurasian Nuthatches, Common Chaffinch (the first Chaffinch species of the many to come in this Odyssey) and Black Redstart, all of them new for the trip. The minutes went out, the queue grew at the same rhythm that our concerns did, and our worst thought came truth when the staff attending the cable car confirmed that the cable car was not to be open that day. A last minute change in the weather broadcast made the conditions unsuitable for the cable car to run in a safe way. Devastated by the news, we had a couple of strolls around, hoping to connect with some good birds. It was certainly still a slim chance for cable car to open, so we decided to invest a couple of hours wandering around. Along this time we got nice views on Firecrest, Song Thrush, European Crested Tit, Dunnock, Eurasian Treecreeper, Blue & Great Tits, Linnets, European Stonechats and lovely views in some Rock Buntings. Both Alpine & Red-billed Choughs were seen, even if the first were far up in the sky. A low Egyptian Vulture was one of the final sightings. At the end, the day turned into a grey, windy one. Back to the van, we started driving back Est, expecting to arrive to our next accommodation at the Ebro Valley about sunset.
In the way, several White Storks we had a number of birding stops. Along the rivers, we got ruff views on a speedy Common Kingfisher, but also on the first Long-tailed Tits and Grey Wagtails of the trip. Several Griffons were seen here as well. Back to the road, we crossed a large area of altitudinal plateaus covered with low scrublands. A wonderful habitat for a number of species, and a couple of stops in our way allowed us to connect with a Woodlark singing from a wire, but also with a massive flock of Common Rock Sparrows A bit beyond, another stops was mandatory to enjoy a Golden Eagle passing really close of the van. The bird, a full adult, was circling above the road. Once with the foot on the ground, we found close Cirl Bunting, Western Yellow Wagtail in the fields around and Sonja got a nice Common Cuckoo landing into a large tree right in front of us! The rest of transfer was a bit more quiet, and only a couple of Short-toed Eagles and a hunting Montagu’s Harriers deserve our attention.
But before going to the accommodation we still had a very short stop around the village, and we were lucky enough to find a lovely Little Owl sitting on the top a pile of rocks. The Owl offered really good looks and some photo opportunities despite the poor light, and this final stop was complemented with the very last bird of the day, a nice European Nightjar that was flying around!
European Crested Tit (Lophophanes cristatus), one of the most celebrated birds in our morning at Picos de Europa. Common Rock Sparrow (Petronia petronia). We enjoyed large flocks between Picos & Los Monegros. Short-toed Eagle (Circaetus gallicus) feeding on a Montpellier Snake (Malpolon monspessulanus).
Day 3. Ebro Valley to Ebro Delta. Just arrived to the habitat, we heard a singing Dupont’s Lark not far away from us. Mediterranean Short-toed Larks were very active, but our attention was concentrated in Dupont’s, a scarce and often difficult to see bird. After a fast scanning, I found the bird singing from a tiny tussock, and I tried to put directions so everybody could enjoy. Unfortunately the bird came down to the ground and started running, and most of the tour participants only got partial views on the bird moving around. The Dupont’s vanished in the vegetation and we decided to wait and see if it was reappearing, but after 10 minutes 3 Pint-tailed Sandgrouses crossed the road, flying into a nearby pond. We immediately took our change and approach the pond, trying to get better views on the birds. We could not find them, but then 2 Black-bellied Sandgrouses flew over, provided good looks. Dupont’s Larks were still singing around, but we were still unable to find anything beyond 2 Thekla’s Larks having a bad argument in the steppes. And then Keith appeared and said the magic words: “I found a roosting Nightjar”. We inmediatly moved to into the bushes. He flushed the bird, that got deep inside the bushland. We had to move carefully to don’t disturbed again. Only a few minutes later we got the bird again, an European Nightjar, roosting really deep inside a bush. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, all clients got to see the bird! But just at the moment to take some shots, the bird flew out, stopping not far. We tried a second a approach, and this time we got nice flight views before it got really deep inside a large bush!
Just back to the van, we decided to try a different strategy to get Dupont’s Lark. We drove through some good habitat, and only 2 minutes later Keith spoiled us again by finding a wonderful Dupont’s Lark walking just beside the vehicle. The bird was only 10 meters away, and all tour participants had good views on the bird as it was moving and feeding among to tussocks of vegetation.
A last stop before leaving this hotspot produced good views in the only Western Orphean Warbler of the trip. Here we also enjoyed European Turtle Dove, migratory Willow Warbler, Woodchat Shrike and fly over Booted Eagle.
Mediterranean Short-toed Lark (Alaudala rufescens) in typical habitat. Dupont’s Lark (Chersophilus duponti) showed really and in different views, despite the rather distant images. European Turtle Dove (Streptopelia turtur) is nesting in good numbers in the grasslands.
It was a sunny day, and in our transfer to Ebro Delta we had a nice lunch stop in one of the many gorges in the area. Here we got lucky again and the whole group enjoyed great views on Western Bonelli’s Warblers but also Peregrine Falcon, Red-rumped Swallows and distant but showy Blue Rock Thrush.
We arrived to Ebro Delta, following the channels and paddyfields covered by hundreds of Glossy Ibises, Whiskered Terns and Herons the many species including Squacco Herons and Purple Herons. A first stop was done in a typical spot for migratory passerines and we got excellent views not only in Willow Warblers but also in 4 Pied Flycatchers, Garden Warbler, Spotted Flycatcher, 1 Melodious Warbler (the only Melodious for the Odyssey), 7+ Eurasian Golden Orioles, Woodchat Shrike, Common Chiffchaff, 3 Common Whitethroats and 1 Common Redstarts. Happy with such array of birds we move to a second spot. Always surrounded by Stilts and Marsh Harriers in our way, we did arrive to a El Violí area, a nice marsh surrounded by lagoons. A relaxed walk around provided a massive list including goodies such as Pied Avocet, 4 Red-crested Pochards, Western Swamphens, Purple Herons, 4 Collared Pratincoles, Penduline Tit, Eurasian Spoonbills, Spotted Redshanks, Great Reed Warblers, good views on 3+ Little Bitterns and migratory Whinchats.
And with the evening shading we just drove the short distance to our accommodation.
Our transfer to Ebro Delta crossed some of the best areas for raptors in Catalonia. Here a gorgeous Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos) seen from a highway. Winchats (Saxicola rubetra) are migratory birds along the Catalan coast. Here a wonderful male! Great Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus arundinaceus) singing his heart out in the reedbeds at Ebro Delta.
Day 4. Ebro Delta – Mallorca. After enjoying a nice breakfast we move to our first stop. It was another sunny day and we went to check the largest lagoon in Ebro Delta. Here, along with the several Common & Whiskered Terns, Swamphens and Audouin’s Gulls we also got really nice views on Caspian Terns and, more importantly, some summer plomaged Mediterranean Gulls that were displaying in an island. This was an important target for some of our guests, and it was really celebrated, especially when some Med Gull decided to come right above us, providing wonderful views to everyone in the group. The stop also provided good scope views on Savi’s Warbler, a scarce nesting bird at Ebro Delta and, more surprisingly, we also got good scope views on 2 Common Reed Buntings. The Reed Buntings nesting here belong to the extremely endangered witherbyi race that has only a few tens of nesting pairs left in Catalonia! Very happy for this very good array of birds, we move North for a last stop in this amazing wetland before heading back to Barcelona.
The last stop was as good as the first one and here, in a swallow water inner bay we got very nice views on 20+ summer plumaged Red Knots joined by 4 drake Curlew Sandpipers! Along with them, Bar-tailed Godwits in summer colours, Eurasian Curlew, Kentish Plover, Eurasian Oystercatcher (the only one for the Odyssey!) and 1 Osprey.
We drove back to Barcelona to take the plane connecting us with Mallorca, but it was still time for a final before leaving Catalonia.. Very close to the airport, we visited a place for the endemic Iberian Green Woodpecker. It didn’t even take us a minute to connect with the bird! Amazingly, one of this woodpeckers just flew parallel to the van for some meters, stopping close to the van and allowing us time to get out of the minivan and connect with it in a very pleasant way. In addition, we also got 2 Hooded Crows, a substantial part of the tiny population recently established around the Catalan capital city. It was too easy! So, we still had time. I asked the people if was fancy to try for Dartford Warbler nearby. No was not an option, and everybody agreed. Ten minutes later we were on place and, guess what, a pair of Dartfords just flew around us to provide some views.. Everybody was happy so now, yes, was time to take a plane and deep into the Mediterranean!
Arrived to Mallorca in the early afternoon, we collected our minibus and drove directly East expecting some goo evening light. That evening, the island was covered with a sheet of light clouds, creating the perfect conditions for some sea watching. We wouldn’t be disappointed and within the next 45 minutes we enjoyed of tens and tens of Scopoli’s Shearwaters passing by our cape, some of them at close range. Along with them, small clocks of Balearic Shearwaters were also in the move to their nesting grounds at Cabrera island. In addition, here we also got the only Northern Gannet of the whole Odyssey and, more importantly 2 Shags, another target species for some of our guests!
Eurasian Penduline Tit (Remiz pendulinus) keeps expanding at Ebro Delta. Mediterranean Gull (Ichthyaetos melanocephala) was really celebrated by some tour participants.Red Knots (Calidris canutus), Curlew Sandpipers (Calidris ferruginea) & Black-bellied Plovers (Pluvialis squatarola) in nice summer colours. Slender-billed Gulls (Larus genei) right in time before we transferred back to Barcelona.
Day 5. Mallorca. Before breakfast we had a short walk exploring the cliffs South from our accommodation. No migrants were found, but we got nice views on a singing Blue Rock Thrush, 2 Pallid Swifts, several Mediterranean Flycatchers and a nice family of Hoopoes. Out in the sea we had distant views on both Scopoli’s & Balearic Shearwaters + a couple of (Mediterranean) Shags. After we enjoyed our delicious breakfast, we went off to meet Jason, our local guide during our full day in the island. Jason is British but his roots in Mallorca are already deep, and this includes his great skills when speaking Catalan in the delicious Mallorcan variation!
It was a very sunny morning and our first movement was to go on with a short walk through some coastal scrubland. Here, it didn’t take long before we contacted with 2 nice Balearic Warblers, and the group enjoyed nice views on this endemic while was moving in an out a bush. Sometimes it came to the top of the bush to sing, but we often had to fight to have proper views on it.
Crossing the island, we headed to Serra de Tramuntana and in the way we caught a migratory Montagu’s Harrier flying very low over the fields. Here, the impressive rocky slopes are home to a good number of specialities. The first to appear were 2 Cinereous Vultures along with 5 Griffon Vultures. Back on the ground, we got nice views on a Tawny Pipit and several Mediterranean Flycatchers. We still had to walk a bit more to see the first Moltoni’s Warbler of the trip, but at the end it provided great views along with 2 other individuals. Back to the van, we still had 3 Common Crossbills passing over us. It was already midday when we left the hills, going this time to the Northern part of the island to explore its main wetland. By the time we arrived to S’Albufera the weather was already cloudy and allowed us to walk inside in a fresh ambient that is uncommon for the season. Some Gull-billed Terns welcomed us to the marshes, and as we walked inside we had time to enjoy the wonderful mixed colony of Squacco Herons, Glossy Ibises, Little Egrets and Night Herons with many birds showing out their best colours! From the hides, we got really good views on Red-knobbed Coots but also 3 Marbled Teals and the firsts Little Ringed Plover and Common Snipe of the tour. Once out, we got excellent views on a family of Red-knobbed Coots feeding their chicks in the path itself only a few yards from us!
To end the day, we had a stop in some farming area. Here we got really good views on Thekla’s Larks but also (Balearic) Woodchat Shrikes and Red-legged Partridges before going back to our accommodation for a well deserved rest.
Mediterranean Flycatcher (Muscicapa tyrrhenica) just by our accommodation. Balearic Warbler (Curruca balerica) fighting to not get in the image!Moltoni’s Warbler (Curruca subalpina) on its typical Mediterranean habitat.Marbled Teal (Marmaronetta angustirostris), Red-knobbed Coot (Fulica cristata) & Common Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna) at S’Albufera.We got lucky and enjoyed some very tender sights on Red-knobbed Coots (Fulica cristata)
Day 6. Mallorca – Tenerife. After enjoying a very nice breakfast, we drove back to Palma, but with a stopover at Salobrar de Campos. Again, we got really few migrants, but excellent views on Kentish Plovers, Black-winged Stilts, Pied Avocets, Greater Flamingoes and a couple of obliging Western Yellow Wagtails.
We landed in Tenerife in the early afternoon and 10′ behind schedule, but we collected the van very quick. At Tenerife Airport, a new Odysseer joined the expedition, and we all left the airport with more energy than ever, heading to the pine woods mid way up to the Teide volcano, the tallest mountain in the Canary Islands.
We had time for a good afternoon stop so we drove up into the slopes of the magnificent Teide (a large volcano that is the highest mountain in the Canary Island). In the way up, we had a pair of Berthelot’s Pipits that showed superbly for the group. But the main stop was in a mature Canary Island Pine forest, where we immediately connected with a nice flock of Atlantic Canaries. Along with them, we got African Blue Tits, Great Spotted Woodpeckers and Common Ravens. It didn’t take long before we got the first Blue Chaffinch, quietly singing while perched in the out for us! We had been tracking their contact calls for some minutes, but was Bud who finally spotted the bird! During the coming 40 minutes we enjoyed several views on Blue Chaffinches, both males and females while feeding on the ground, chasing each other or having more than words with one of the Great Spotted Woodpeckers around.
Totally satisfied after this first stop in the Canary Islands, we just drove to our accommodation to enjoy an extraordinary dinner!
Kentish Plover (Anarhynchus alexandrinus) in Mallorca.Berthelot’s Pipit (Anthus berthelotii) close up.Tenerife Blue Chaffinches (Fringilla teydea) provided great looks in one of the typical places for the species (above & below). Echium wildpretii, a gorgeous endemic plant from the Canary Islands (Teide NP).
Day 7. Tenerife. Early morning breakfast for the group before transfering North of the island to look for the many specialties living in the laurel forest. It is a fresh day and as we park we soon enjoy views on Atlantic Canaries feeding around and the distinctive Canary Island Chiffchaffs being very active. A Common Buzzard soars the sky, and we are surprised by the good activity of Bolle’s Pigeon feeding in the canopies, flying around and flocking in the trees that holds their food. We spent some time enjoying them, but our attention is required in the sky as the very first Common Kestrel in the Canary Islands appears also in the sky. As in many species here, this is a specific race, and in this case it is smaller and duller, with a distinctive tawny tint in the underneath. The Kestrel was still in the sky when a Laurel Pigeon arrives to one of the most popular trees, landing in the middle of the Bolle’s Pigeon, but out of view. As we concentrate our efforts in locating this bird, a second Laurel Pigeon flies into some large Pines, but only Keith manages short views on the bird while it is perched in the outer branches.
We still spent some time in the parking before starting our walk, but we never had any other Laurel showing here. The path we are following goes up the hill and gets inside a very interesting, almost pristine, laurel forest. In our way up, some European Robin (race superbus, considered as a full species in some lists) show up, producing really good looks. A bit beyond we also find the recently split Canary Island Chaffinch while a small flock of Plain Swift is flying around us and a pair of Eurasian Sparrowhawk is soaring the sky. We spent most of the morning in the area, but we could not get any further view on Laurel Pigeons. Instead, some lovely Tenerife Goldcrest (race teneriffae, another serious potential split) provided the group with excellent views!
Back to the van, we drove a short distance to enjoy a typical Canarian meal. We were all happy after the many sightings on Bolle’s Pigeon (35+ birds!) and all the other endemics. We were about to leave Tenerife but we wanted better views on Laurel Pigeon so in the way back a fast stop was done and from here got excellent views on at least 18 Laurel Pigeons! They were very active, flying along the slopes. Two or three times we got scope views on perched Laurel Pigeon and all 4 scopes concentrated on them! By 14:30 we were back to the airport. We had “cleared” the island in less than one day!!
We took a commuter flight to Fuerteventura. But, by the time we arrived there it was already a bit late in the afternoon. Still, a last stop was made by a pond where we had the first Ruddy Shelducks and Laughing Doves of the trip plus good looks on 2 very attractive summer plomaged Dunlins, 1 Little Ringed Plover, 1 Yellow Wagtail, and some Egyptian Vultures, very active despite the strong wind.
Canary Island Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus canariensis) showing the broad eye brow and the long, rather decurved bill. Tenerife Robing (Erithacus rubecula superbus), a serious candidate to become full species.Tens of Bolle’s Pigeons (Columba bollii) were feeding in the wood lands, but always conveniently far..The recently split Canary Islands Chaffinch (Fringilla canariensis) has become a new endemic of the islands. At the end we enjoyed at least 18 Laurel Pigeons (Columba junoniae) feeding and gathering in a gorge.
Day 8. Fuerteventura. It had been a windy night, and when we gathered at the lobby of our accommodation for a pre-breakfast exploration of the desert around, I have to confess that I was a bit worry about the possibilities of get the birds during the day. We drove the short distance to a good location for some desert birds. As we drove in, the first lights of the day revealed some Yellow-legged Gulls in the move. Surprisingly it didn’t take long before we found a wonderful male Houbara Bustard standing up at a short distance from the minibus. we all got great views and we could track a bit the large bird as it was moving in the desert. At some point we lost track, and kept driving a bit beyond only to find a female Houbara Bustard. We stop and decided to walk out of the vehicle so everybody could have a good chance for views and photos.
As we were enjoying the female, we suddenly got the male coming from the opposite side of the track and, for our surprise, started displaying only 100 meters away from us. The display on this species is admirable, as they become a wonderful white ball, starting running up while is converted in a snow ball. We saw the bird displaying for long, and even crossed the small road in the search of the female that was running the opposite slope.
Once we enjoyed very much this splendid moment, we decided to come back to the accommodation and enjoy a well deserved breakfast.
After breakfast we left our accommodation and drove West in the search of proper habitat for the other main target in the island. Even before arrived to the place we had to slow down. A very nice Egyptian Vulture was feeding on the ground along with Common Ravens. A bit beyond, we started scanning the endless rocky desert that host many of the good birds living in the island. Soon, we got 3 Black-bellied Sandgrouses flying into the plain and stopping in the rocky plain. It took us a couple of minutes to figure out where they landed, and a gentle approach allowed us to have very close views on all 3 birds; 2 males and 1 young. A marvellous morning light was on the birds, and the photographers in the group enjoyed this very much. We parked a bit beyond and had a stroll along a wide valley. A small reservoir of water that serves for irrigate some areas around is the best wetland in the island. We got some Black-winged Stilts and 3 Little Ringed Plovers but, unfortunately, nothing else. Small flocks of Sandgrouses were mobile in the area, probably attending the water pond in a place out of view. We got amazing flight views, with several flocks calling as they were crossing the valley at full speed. We counted a minimum of 18 individuals.
A few moments later we got the a nice pair of Fuerteventura Chats moving in the dry river bed. They were a bit far away so we decided to walk down the slope and a few minutes later we were enjoying really nice looks in both, male and female. The male appear to be a bit dirty due to the muddy river bed. Several flocks of Sandgrouses flew over us and 2 Cream-coloured Courser joined them at some point! A further walk through the habitat allowed us to have ruff views on Trumpeter Finches but close views on both 2 Stone Curlews, the Canary Islands race of Great Grey Shrike and Spanish Sparrows. Very distantly, a Barbary Falcon showed out briefly chasing a small bird.
We went back to our accommodation for some lunch. Outside, the wind started to blow in a very serious way and our perspectives for an afternoon birding almost vanishes. Still, we decided to go out and try to catch up with something else. This time we went to the famous Tendaya plains, and we were delighted with our choice from the very beginning. Not even arrived to the habitat we had to spot to admire a flock of extremely close Black-bellied Sandgrouses feeding inside a enclosure for goats. They were feeding along with Collared Doves, a bit grotesque if you want, but equally enjoyable! Only a few yards beyond we made a stop to explore some nice bushland. The Great Grey Shrikes kept down in the habitat, away from the strong wind, but our walk was rewarded with solid views on 3 Spectacled Warblers, 1 migratory Spotted Flycatcher and 4 Barbary Partridges moving a bit far away from us. The area was full of Trumpeter Finches and we all enjoyed great views on these little gems. The surprise of the afternoon was a nice female Eurasian Golden Oriole but the wind started to get really serious. It was probably time to move back. In the extra time, we still had a gorgeous female Houbara Bustard walking along the mini vas, and providing great looks in the wonderful afternoon light.
A superb Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata) in full display was the best of our pre-breakfast outing in Fuerteventura. Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus) has in Fuerteventura one of the few non-migratory populations of this species worldwide. Black-bellied Sandgrouse (Pterocles orientalis) melting with the landscape.Fuerteventura Chat (Saxicola dacotiae), endemic from that island and with a fastly decreasing population.Spanish Sparrow (Passer hispanoliensis) We were lucky to enjoy extremely close views on some Black-bellied Sandgrouses (Pterocles orientalis), including this female. Trumpeter Finch (Bucanetes githagineus) close up. Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata)
Day 9. Fuerteventura – Gran Canaria. We woke up in Fuerteventura in another windy morning. In our way to the airport, we did a couple of stops to try to have some migratory birds, but we really few luck. In our stops we only got 1 European Bee-eater, 2 Dunlins in full summer plumage and 3 Western Yellow Wagtails along with Eurasian Hoopoes,Linnets and some Berthelot’s Pipits.
Once in Gran Canaria, we drove up in the hills with the hope of contacting with the extremely scarce Gran Canaria Blue Chaffinch. With an estimated population of about 50 males left, this is the most endangered songbird in the Macaronesia!
Our way up provided us the best views on Plain Swifts so far in the trip as they were feeding along the lane, showing us their flight capabilities and taking advantage of the strong wind to fly really low over the tarmac. A couple of Canary Island Chaffinch also crossed the road and a Common Kestrel (dacotiae race) was also seen hunting. We arrived to the mature pine forests that serve as a habitat for this extremely endangered species. Right arrived, we had a bird singing a number of times up in the canopy. It was midday, and we were surprised to listen the bird singing. Unfortunately we couldn’t locate the bird, and we hang around some time, convinced that the finch could not be really far away. During this time, we got nice views on the Gran Canaria Chaffinch, and enjoy very much with a pair of Great Spotted Woodpeckers that were attending a nest nearby. Some Atlantic Canaries were also active, feeding in the area so our Chaffinch could not be far away!
We dispersed a bit, and finally was James who found the feeding along with some Canaries. The bird flew off, landing next to Dorothy, who pointed out the bird and anyone in the group could enjoy close views on this extremely scarce bird! Mission accomplished, and in less than 1 hour, so we still had time to go down to the coast and try to contact with the long staying Sudan Golden Sparrows in a urban parc in the capital city of the island. Here we got Ring-necked Parakeets, the long-staying (and ship assisted) Pied Crow, Eurasian Blackcaps and intimate views on Canary Islands Chiffchaffs and Atlantic Canaries. But, unfortunately, we never saw the Sparrows.
From here, we still have a drive to our accommodation, where we had a wonderful dinner in a local restaurant. Well, the clients had a wonderful dinner and the tour leader got his tiramisu stolen by some guests!!!!!!! How is this even possible!?!?
Gran Canaria Blue Chaffinch (Fringilla polatzeki), an extremely endangered endemic songbird.The amazing cliffs of Gran Canaria, a nesting site of Barolo’s Shearwaters. Happy faces after contacting with Gran Canaria Chaffinch!
Day 10. Gran Canaria – Madeira. This was basically a transfer day. With the few time available we tried again the Sudan Golden Sparrows but, as a local birdwatcher told us, they seemed to be vanished from their normal spots.
In the evening we landed in Madeira and we directly went to our accommodation for some rest.
Atlantic Canary (Serinus canaria) in a urban park in Las Palmas.
Day 11. Madeira. Relaxed morning to explore the outskirts of our accommodation and work some of the logistics for the offshores to come. Common Sandpiper, Common Waxbills, Grey Wagtail and Lesser Black-backed Gull was the most interesting birds before we step on the boat.
Once on the ocean, We headed South and soon after we were enjoying the first Cory’s Shearwaters of the trip. The ocean was a bit rough and we had to break through several 3 metres high waves to arrive to the proper birding places. But we were not alone, since several Bulwer’s Petrels were flying around. We counted at least 10 of this very smart sea birds. Along with the common Cory’s Shearwaters we also had a small number of Manx’s since here is one of the Southernmost places where do they nest!
But everything started to pack together when we had our first Pterodroma in the air. At the beginning the bird was a bit far away but we didn’t have to wait long before the bird came closer, confirming what most suspected, we were admiring a Zino’s Petrel, one of the most scarce see birds in this part of the world!!
Nesting high in the central part of the island, Zino’s Petrel main known colony is about 200 pairs! We all got solid views in this majestic bird, and we were surprised to see a 2nd Zino’s Petrel flying a bit more far away off our ship!
In the way to back, we had a good surprise, since a Barolo Shearwater took off along with some Manx Shearwaters. Unfortunately, not everyone in the group could enjoy thi tiny Shearwater.. When arriving to the harbour, a distant Whimbrel was also a nice adding to our trip list.
Cory’s Shearwater (Calonectris diomedea) during our first Madeiran offshore.Bulwer’s Petrels (Bulweria bulwerii) were surprisingly common in our first boat trip.Zino’s Petrel (Pterodroma madeira) flying close to our boat.
Day 12.Madeira. After a nice breakfast, we went to spend the morning looking for the endemics living in the island. A first exploration close to the accommodation produced nice views on the both Madeiran Chaffinch and Madeiran Firecrest plus several Eurasian Blackcaps and a few Common Buzzards and Goldfinches. From here we moved to Funchal, where a nice short walk inside a local garden produced very nice views on the also endemic Trocaz Pigeon. Back to the accommodation, we had a free afternoon before going with our nocturnal walk up to visit the Zino’s Petrel colony.
Walking in the night in the highest mountains in Madeira is always as impressive as the first time. The scenery is abrupt, broken and has the sense of mystery and discovery that everyone is searching when travelling around the world. That night was rather cold, and the squeals of the Petrels arrived to us as distant ecos in the mist.
Madeiran Chaffinch (Fringilla madeirensis), another recent split for our group!Madeira Firecrest (Regulus madeirensis), my closest ever views on a Regulus Warbler!Trocaz Pigeon (Columba trocaz), a very impressive inhabitant of the indigenous forests in Madeira.
Day 13. Madeira. After a late breakfast, we went to the Eastern tip of Madeira, a good place to have a couple of complementary species in the island. As we parked the car, we noticed Spectacled Warblers in the low scrublands. For our surprise, James and Sonja found a nest with a female inside, probably protecting the young birds from the strong and rather cold wind blowing that morning. Both male and female were doing several visits to the nest, feeding the youngs, and both alternate on lying on the young birds.
Our walk around produced a bunch of Atlantic Canaries and good views on Berthelot’s Pipits. Spectacled Warblers were well active all around the slope. We were in search of the small population of Common Rock Sparrows living here, and we were surprised to find a female-type Trumpeter Finch instead! It was at the top of a fence, and it looked like be moving along with the several Atlantic Canaries around! This is a big rarity in Madeira, with only a handful of previous records!
Really happy to have this really good bird in our visit to Madeira, we moved a bit away to scan a slope where we previously heard the Common Rock Sparrows calling. We scanned a bit with poor results, and we were about to leave when Barbara just came to us with a great image of a Common Rock Sparrow sitting on a rock. We parked again the minibus, walked down the slope and soon we were having a nice pair of Rock Sparrows that looked like collecting food for a close nest! This last stop was nicely complemented by a Red-legged Partridge peacefully sitting on a small bare area. Even if not natural to the island, this is always a handsome bird to have.
Happy after this nice morning, we just came back to the accommodation for a nice lunch a good rest before our 2nd offshore.
Spectacled Warbler (Curruca conspicillata), inhabits low scrubland both in the coast and in the top of the highest mountains.Trumpeter Finch (Bucanetes githagineus); third record for Madeira?Common Rock Sparrow (Petronia petronia). As some islands around the Macaronesia, Madeira holds a small population of them.
This time we headed North-East, and the offshore was dominated by good numbers of Bulwer’s Petrels moving around the boat. We also had at least 3 European Storm Petrels feeding along, and we could compare this small species with 2 Wilson’s Stormies that also came along, offering very and several views. To end the afternoon we had rather distant but solid views on 1 Madeiran Storm Petrel that, unfortunately, never came close enough but that we enjoyed very much! In the way back, we had nice flocks of both Manx & Cory’s Shearwaters resting on the sea, providing some very close views..
Cory’s Shearwater (Calonectris diomedea). European Storm Petrel (Hydrobates pelagicus) showing the wide underwing band.Wilson’s Storm Petrel (Oceanites oceanicus) came, at times, very close to the boat!European Storm Petrel (Hydrobates pelagicus)Wilson’s Storm Petrel (Oceanites oceanicus) “walking” the sea.A nice pod of Short-finned Pilot Whales (Globicephala macrorrhynchus) came across our boat. Manx Shearwater (Puffinus puffinus) close up.
Day 14. Morning off. Last offshore. After having a free morning to enjoy the wonderful Madeiran wines, we assembled again in the afternoon, ready for our last offshore in this island. In our way to the harbour we were joined by a small flock of Ruddy Turnstones; 6 of them were feeding at the end of a small stream.
It was clearly less windy than the previous days, and the offshore was again dominated by the good numbers of Cory’s Shearwaters and Bulwer’s Petrels. Soon, we were again enjoying both Wilson’s & European Storm Petrels, but all the eyes turned away from them when a wonderful Desertas Petrel appeared in the sky. Darker and structurally heavier (especially when it comes to the bill) than Zino’s, we all enjoyed several views on this really unknown taxon while riding the waves!
So nice to enjoy a flock of Ruddy Turnstones (Arenaria interpres) in our way to the dock!Wilson’s Storm Petrel (Oceanites oceanicus) in mild afternoon light.Deserta’s Petrel (Pterodroma deserta) with its island as a background.Deserta’s Petrel (Pterodroma deserta) -left- versus Bulwer’s Petrel (Bulweria bulwerii) -right.
Day 15. Madeira. This day we were supposed to fly to Sao Miguel, but our flight was cancelled. We got the news early in the morning, and some of the tour participants took a guided walk around Funchal, while the rest stayed at the accommodation to enjoy some rest.
After a morning of telephone calls to make sure that our accommodation and minibus were still waiting for us at Ponta Delgada the they after, some of us reassembled again for an afternoon walk. Along the stream next to our accommodation we got a drake Glossy Ibis along with the common Muscovy Ducks. Eurasian Moorhen was also an island tick, and along with these species we got the normal selection of Atlantic Canaries, Common Waxbills, Eurasian Blackcaps and Eurasian Blackbirds. A Grey Wagtail was showing nicely in the stream, and at the far end of it we still got 4 Ruddy Turnstones feeding among the rocks. From here we got a taxi to explore the Westernmost point of the island. A walk around produced again nice views on Rock Sparrows, Berthelot’s Pipits and Spectacled Warblers. Here, 3 Barn Swallows were a new surprise. Our walk around also produced really a pair of Roseate Terns holding a territory in the Northern coast of the island. They were quite far away, but we spent 40 minutes enjoying scope views to make sure that everybody catched the absence of a black rear edge in the wings.
After this we just went back to the accommodation to get ready for a nice evening meal.
A drake Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus), a description species for Madeira. Without wind, we got several sights on Spectacled Warblers (Curruca conspicillata), like this female.
Day 16. Madeira – Sao Miguel. After our flight was delayed for one day, we finally got out of Madeira, landing in Ponta Delgada during the early afternoon. Before living Madeira we saw again the drake Glossy Ibis in the creek by the hotel, and Dorothée and Sonja had a Western House Martin flying around the airport.
Once in Sao Miguel, we directly moved to one of the strongholds for the endemic and very endangered Azores Bullfinich. In the way we got a good selection of the common birds in this island including several European Robins, Common Buzzards, Grey Wagtails, Common Starlings and Atlantic Canaries (very common here). We also got a few Common Woodpigeons, Eurasian Goldfinches and ruff views on the endemic Azores Chaffinch.
Once at the place we started looking for these small Bullfinches. For about one hour we quietly scanned the vegetation looking for movement, but we only got Goldcrests and Blackcaps singing around us. At some point we started to disperse when suddenly Keith yelled from down the path. We all ran down to find him pointing up in the hillside, where two superb Azores Bullfinches were feeding in a small tree. This was a lifer bird for all, including me, and it was really celebrated considering the few time we got to try to find it!
The birds went away after some minutes of sighting, and we walked down to the van. But we were around the van William saw something flying down inside a small creek. We went to see what it was, and James found the two Bullfinches feeding only a couple of metres away from the group, really low in the vegetation! This was a wonderful view, way better that what we were expecting to have in such a short period of time.
From here we went down to our accommodation, with one stop to have better views on the Azores Chaffinches. There, we got also really got looks on 1 Azores Noctule, the only endemic mammal of the islands, flying in full daylight! Around our accommodation, a shortstop was added to scan a small island. Beyond the small colony of Common Terns, we got to see 9 Cory’s Shearwaters flying really close to the coast in really good light.
Azores Chaffinch (Fringilla moreletti) feeding in an open land. Azores Bullfinch (Pyrrhula murina) Azores Bullfinch (Pyrrhula murina) close up.
Day 17. Sao Miguel – Terceira. Before our connection flight with Terceira, we had time to explore a bit the promenade around Ponta Delgada, where we got 3 Whimbrels and 4 Ruddy Turnstones along with the typical views on some Cory’s Shearwaters moving not especially close to the coast. A second stop was made by the Lagoa Verde, to enjoy further views on Azores Chaffinches, Azorean Common Woodpigeon, Atlantic Canaries, Common Terns, Goldcrests and Little Egrets.
Once arrived to Terceira, we had an afternoon walk around the famous Paúl de Praia Victoria. Nothing of interest was seen beyond Common Waxbills and some pairs of Moorhens and Coots and an escaped Cockatail. At the evening, a further walk produced an interesting Great White Egret (a local rarity) roosting in the lagoon.
Great White Egret (Ardea alba) roosting in Terceira.Azores Common Woodpigeon (Columba palumbus azorica), another splittable race.
Day 18. Terceira. After breakfast we walked down to the harbour, where our boat was waiting for us. That morning we had a bit of rain, but nothing really serious.
Out in the sea, we soon had the first Cory’s Shearwaters but our eyes were looking for something smaller. It didn’t take long before we got the first 2 Barolo’s Shearwaters, and soon after another 3 or 4 birds moving along with Cory’s. The difference of size was just incredible. Other small flocks were seen, with great views and also great photo chances! Beyond the Shearwaters, we had to go further South before we got the main target of the offshore. It was a bit long waiting, with the Ocean being really plain, but suddenly a wonderful Monteiro’s Storm Petrel showed out for us, performing in a great way and allowing us to see its forked tail. What a stunner!
Very glad with this great species, we just went back to Terceira while enjoying more Barolo’s Shearwaters. At the end, no less than 14 Barolo’s were seen, not bad at all!
We were lucky to get lovely views on Monteiro’s Storm Petrel (Oceanodroma monteiroi)Our group back to the harbour in Terceira after enjoying Monteiro’s Storm Petrel.Barolo Shearwaters (Puffinus baroli) were surprisingly common around Terceira.
Day 19. Terceira – Lisbon. This was basically a travel day back to Lisbon, but our midday flight allowed us some local birding before leaving Açores. A short walk from our accommodation gave us access to a very nice farmland. Keith was here the they before, and he was already enjoying the Common Quails. That was our main target for the morning and after some search we finally found the first of them. And then a second and even a third bird, all of them singing from the top of the lovely stone walls that served to mark the limits of the properties. Along with them, waves of Atlantic Canaries, Blackbirds and Blackcaps to say goodbye to these wonderful islands!
Arrived to Lisbon, we just went down the corner of our accommodation, where a very nice local restaurant was waiting for the group. It was another pleasant dinner full of fun and good mod. A perfect way to end the first half of the Odyssey!
Common Quail (Coturnix coturnix) singing from a stone edge.
Day 20. Lisbon – Sofia. Early morning flight connecting Lisbon with Sofia, the capital city of Bulgaria. Our group of guests landed and they immediately met Sergi and their local guide, but all of that will be explained soon..
List of birds seen during the tour
Mute Swan (Cygnus olor)
Ruddy Shelduck (Tadorna ferruginea)
Common Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna)
Greylag Goose (Anser anser)
Marbled Teal (Mamaronetta angustirostris)
Gadwall (Marecca strepera)
Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)
Northern Pintail (Anas acuta)
Northern Shoveler (Spatula clypeata)
Garganey (Spatula querquedula)
Common Pochard (Aythya ferina)
Ferruginous Duck (Aythya nyroca)
White-headed Duck (Oxyura leucocephala)
Common Quail (Coturnix coturnix)
Red-legged Partridge (Alectoris rufa)
Barbary Partridge (Alectoris barbara)
European Nightjar (Caprimulgus europaeus)
Red-necked Nightjar (Caprimulgus ruficollis)
Common Pheasant (Phaisanus colchinus)
Little Bustard (Tetrax tetrax)
Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata)
Common Swift (Apus apus)
Plain Swift (Apus unicolor)
Pallid Swift (Apus pallidus)
Alpine Swift (Tachymarpstis melba)
Common Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus)
Great Spotted Cuckoo (Clamator glandarius)
Pin-tailed Sandgrouse (Pterocles alchata)
Black-bellied Sandgrouse (Pterocles orientalis)
Feral Pigeon (Columba livia)
Stock Dove (Columba oenas)
Common Wood Pigeon (Columba palumbus)
Trocaz Pigeon (Columba trocaz)
Bolle’s Pigeon (Columba bollii)
Laurel Pigeon (Columba junoniae)
European Turtle Dove (Streptopelia turtur)
Eurasian Collared Dove (Streptopelia decaocto)
Laughing Dove (Streptopelia senegalensis)
Water Rail (Rallus aquaticus) —————————— heard only
Overview: Our 5th tour to Extremadura started with extremely low temperatures of only 3ºC in the 2nd morning of the trip. After a long week of massive rains and low temperatures migration was low, and as the temperatures recovered some summer visitors only started to show out in the tour at the end of our week there. Still, we managed to connect with most of them, including Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush and some of the very firsts European Rollers of the season. As always, the most celebrated moments of the tour were our visit to Monfragüe National Park and the good variety of birds in all the plains we visited, including the endangered Little Bustard.
Please mind all rights reserved in all images in this trip report.
Day 1. Meet and greet in an accommodation nearby the Madrid International Airport before starting moving out of the city. This first day we will explore some wetlands South of the city. It is a sunny morning and we cross the light traffic around the city to arrive to the extensive farmlands South of Madrid. Along the road we can see the first of many Spotless Starlings and Black Kites along with a Red Kite and Common Kestrels.
Our first stop is devoted to explore one of the many wetlands in the area known as “La Mancha Húmeda”. It is still sunny, but it is already a bit windy. From a first platform we have close views on some drake White-headed Ducks along with Red-crested Pochard, the commoner Common Pochard, Northern Shoveler and Black-necked Grebes showing a full nesting plomage. A wonderful Purple Heron crossed the lagoon offering great views to the group while a rather distant Savi’s Warbler was singing far away from us, well covered by the rank vegetation. Several Greater Flamingoes are present in the lagoon and an accurate counting on the White-headed Ducks reveals 34+ birds there. Marsh Harriers are really common, and the air is full of their displays and pursuits.
A short walk around reveals Linnet and European Serin but also the first Zitting Cisticola for the group along with Sand Martin and rather distant Eurasian Sparrowhawk and Booted Eagle. From the reeds around us emerges a Western Swamphen just to land a hundred metres further in the reeds. In the way back the our vehicle, we had 50+ Black Kites still migrating North, several White Storks and a male Montagu’s Harrier flying high up in the sky.
From this wetland we just drove some miles inside the farming. It was already midday but the weather was comfortable. Checking some fields we got nice views on a migratory Northern Wheatear, Little Ringed Plovers, Crested Larks, a very distant Spanish Imperial Eagle and a really obliging Eurasian Hoopoe surrounded by the songs of many Calandra Larks and 1 Common Quail.
A bit beyond, the first European Roller of the trip was waiting for us in a wire by the road, and a bit beyond a lovely flock of Lesser Kestrels provided us with excellent views as they were hunting against the wind with the nice adding of a low Cinereous Vulture flying over the group as a wonderful first approach to this magnificent bird.
After a wonderful lunch, we drove West to check a second lagoon. By the time we arrived the weather had changed and a strong wind was blowing in the area. We were unable to see any reed living passerines, and a distant Water Pipit and a Great Reed Warbler singing but only breefly showing were the only addings from that side. Still, we got close views on several White-headed Ducks, 12 Whiskered Terns, an equal number of Black-necked Grebes and a juvenile Lesser Black-backed Gull. Here we also got a good number of Red-crested Pochards, Greylag Geese, 6 Black-winged Stilts, Green & Common Sandpipers and 8 Little Ringed Plovers.
Short after living, the rain arrived, and the transfer to our accommodation had multiple showers with a really strong wind.
White-headed Duck (Oyxura leucocephala) from our visit to La Mancha Húmeda. Image by Peter Sutton.Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus roseus). Image by Peter Sutton.Splendid Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea). Image by Peter Sutton.Zitting Cisticola (Cisticola juncidis). Image by Peter Sutton
Day 2. The morning started without wind but with really a very low temperature, and we were only at 4ºC when we did our morning walk around the accommodation. Due to this very temperature, the bird activity was slim. Still, we managed to get really good views on Woodlarks, Woodchat Shrikes and Short-toed Treecreeper. We started moving to the extensive plains around Trujillo, enjoying the first Spanish (formerly Azure-winged) Magpie of the trip, perching along in the fences along the road and flying across.
From our accommodation we covered the short distance to the plains around Trujillo, where we arrived about 9:30am. And we had a wonderful arrival, in the way of a majestic Great Bustard flying right in front of van, crossing the lane and disappearing in the endless grasslands. Our first stop in the was also memorable; a flock of 9 Great Bustards were moving in the fields, with 1 male in full display (the neck down on the back, the tail up and all the white, short feathers erected with the bird becoming a huge snowball moving up and down in the pastures.
Several Calandra Larks and Corn Buntings were singing in the skies or from the fences, and in the sky we counted several Black & Griffon Vultures, but also Booted Eagles and Lesser Kestrels. A bit of scan produced 2 Montagu’s Harriers patrolling the fields, but our attention was soon required again away from the Harriers, since a flock of Pin-tailed Sandgrouses was calling in the sky. Soon, we found 5 birds fastly moving, and we could follow them, providing a good although distant sight. Later, a second flock of 10 more Pin-tailed Sandgrouses was seen flying around. Again, far away.
Back to the woodlands, with Bee-eaters and Woodchat Shrikes all along the way, we had a shortwalk into proper habitat. Not many small birds but the first views of the trip on Sardinian Warbler. Several Spanish Sparrows were moving around, but the proved more difficult to locate here than in other areas around. In the sky, Booted Eagle and Black Kite were again in the move, but here we also got the first Short-toed Eagle of the trip, a gorgeous Black Stork that appeared quite close to us, and the first Spanish Imperial Eagle of the trip. In this case, probably an incomplete adult still showing some young feathers both in the center of the tail and in the inner primaries.
After a gentle stop to enjoy some sandwiches in a small community in the middle of the plains, we kept going with our exploration. The plains were full of Corn Buntings and Zitting Cisticolas, but also Calandra Larks, Black Vultures and we had a number of stops to enjoy Short-toed Snake Eagle and up to 3 Montagu’s Harriers in different places.
The very last stop of the day was devoted to the famous Arrocampo reservoir. Here we had a short walk along the reedbeds. We soon had both Little Egrets & Great White Egrets in this lovely wetland. Some Common Reed Warblers were singing in the place, and got some views on them as they were chasing each other in the reeds. In our way we had close views on European Stonechats, Zitting Cisticolas, Cetti’s Warblers and Western Cattle Egrets. Around one of the observation towers, a large colony of Purple Herons was established, and we counted 19 of them getting in and out or standing in the top of the reeds. Here, a gorgeous Savi’s Warbler was singing not far away from us, and an accurate scan soon revealed this scarce warbler singing from the top of reeds, allowing long and great scope views to all tour participants. Here we also had Western Swamphen, 3 distant Gull-billed Terns flying over the lagoon and calling Water Rail.
When coming back to our van we still had time to time for lovely views on a male Little Bittern plus good views on both Pallid & Alpine Swifts, and the mild afternoon light allowed us to compare shapes and coloration details. At last, 3 Eurasian Spoonbills flew above us, as a final say! From here, we just drove the short distance to our accommodation to enjoy some rest and dinner.
Woodlark (Lullula arborea) around our accommodation. Image by Peter SuttonWoodchat Shrike (Lanius senator) around our accommodation. Image by Peter Sutton.Great Bustard (Otis tarda) doing a pass by our van. Image by tour leader Carles Oliver.One of the many Black (or Cinereous) Vultures of the day. Image by Peter Sutton.European Bee-eater, just arrived from Africa! Image by Peter Sutton.The first Spanish Imperial Eagle was this interesting 4th or 5th year. Image by Peter Sutton.Savi’s Warbler (Locustella luscinioides). Image by Peter Sutton.Flying Little Bittern (Ixobrychus minutus) at Arrocampo. Image by tour participant Gill Griffiths.During the trip we got to the amazing blossom of the very common French Lavender (Lavandula pedunculata).
Day 3. After breakfast, we headed to the wonderful Gredos Mountains, but prior arriving to those escarpments we had a shortstop in a nice dehesa woodland. There we walk through a carpet of wildflowers and surrounded by singing Nightingales and perched Woodchat Shrikes. The area is full of broken poplars and it didn’t take long before we got nice but short views on a Eurasian Wryneck. A couple of Booted Eagles were seen along with Spanish Sparrows, the first views of Azure-winged Magpie for the trip and a pair of Common Rock Sparrows. A distant view on an Iberian Grey Shrike completed a good list before driving up to the mountains.
The morning was sunny and definately warmer than the previous day. By the time we arrived to the mountain pass it was a very pleasant temperature and we fastly got really good looks on Rock Buntings but also Dunnock and a fast moving Firecrest. Eurasian Griffon and Cinereous Vultures were both seen in the sky and our short walk up the hill allow us to connect with the first Black Redstarts of the trip but also with epic views on a wonderful Western Subalpine Warbler, and a Dartford Warbler moving also really close to us. The walk was complemented with nice views on 2 Spanish Ibexes and 1 really distant Blue Rock Thrush flycatching in the very top of the rocky slope. In our way down the slope we also got views in a flying Northern Wheatear and in an impressive female Peregrine Falcon flying really low above the slopes.
From this lovely mountain pass we drove inside the pinewoods, with some Iberian Grey Shrikes here and there in the “piornal” bush land. The pinewoods here host a nice selection of birds, and our next stop allowed us to see some of them. But first, we had some time to go through our picnic lunches while enjoying some mountain sun, or having a shortwalk around.
Once lunched, we invested some time to go through the birds living in the woods. Both Coal & Crested Tits were evident around, as were Common Chaffinch, Serin and Blackcap. Great Spotted Woodpecker and Short-toed Treecreeper were a bit more difficult to see. A pair of Citril Finches flew around us, and it took us a good while before we could put our eyes on them. But after some minutes of search a nice pair went down to the grass and fed for some time not far away from us. Up in the trees, a group of young Crossbills were calling, but it was impossible to locate them for the group..
Back to the mountain pass, we had a shortstop to enjoy a pass by Short-toed Eagle with a hanging snake from its peak, while some in the group had a female Montagu’s Harrier crossing the pass in her way North.
Sawfly Orchid (Ophrys tenthredinifera) during one of our strolls.Subalpine Warbler. Image by Peter Sutton.Citril Finches made us work hard this time. Image by Peter Sutton.Eurasian Crag Martin. Image by Peter Sutton.Rock Buntings provided good looks at Gredos. Image by Peter Sutton.Short-toed Snake Eagle. Image by Peter Sutton.Spanish Festoon (Zerynthia rumina). Image by tour participant Rhodie Blythe.
To end the day, we had a couple of stops in the wonderful Tietar Valley, immediately South of Gredos Mountains. At the first stop we got nice views on Iberian Grey & Woodchat Shrikes. Some Black Vultures were flying in the distance but soon we were distracted by a wonderful Black-winged Kite that went up to the skies to push out a Black Kite. It looks like this bird was holding a territory in the area, and during the next minutes we enjoyed wonderful views on the bird as it was flying above, including some display! The Kite finally got down the skies to stop in the top of tree. During the next minutes it remained there, providing great scope views, but slowly moving into the branches, and we realised that its nest must be in that same tree.
We didn’t want to disturb the bird, so we decided to go to explore a nice stream close by. The plan was to come back again to the place of the Black-winged Kite later, hoping for closer views. The stream, right at the end of a small reservoir had become a slow moving river thanks to the generous rains of the last days. Here, we enjoyed soon lovely views on a number of Common Nightingales singing in lovely afternoon light, and the walk was complemented with nice views on a dark form Booted Eagle feeding on a prey up in the trees. Common Kingfisher, Cetti’s Warbler and Sardinian Warblers were also noted here.
90 minutes later the Black-winged Kite place was still on the same tree and after some extra views we decided to go back to our accommodation to enjoy some fun while having dinner.
Black-winged Kite (Elanus caeruleus) displaying on its territory. Image by Peter Sutton.Iberian Grey Shrike. Image by Peter Sutton.
Day 4. This morning we went to explore the endless ondulate landscape of wonderful grasslands called La Serena. After having breakfast we transfer South with some flocks Black-winged Stilt flocks flying beside the highway in the paddyfields North of Merida. This looked like a very promising spot we had to time for it at the end.
After some delay (thanks to Google maps), we arrived to the plains, and only 2 minutes after arriving we were having a nice flock of Pin-tailed Sandgrouses on the ground, only 50 metres away from the van. These were the closest Sandgrouses I ever had in Extremadura, and all enjoyed good views on the birds. They were so quiet that I was tempted to set up the scope, but the flew away..
From here we drove in the plains, with several Lesser Kestrels all the way down and a number of Calandra Larks also singing here and there. Northern Wheatears could be also seen in the fences and wires; a good sign that the migration was restarting after a very cold week! Soon after, a wonderful Cinereous Vulture provided great views on the ground along with Griffons. Some of the Griffons with their necks and heads still dirty after scavenger a carrion.
The next stop was made in a typical place for Little Bustard. This bird was extremely common all around the grasslands in Extremadura, but now their numbers have decreased dramatically and you can count yourself lucky if you see any of them during the spring. And we got one male.
It was singing really far away. A Montagu’s Harrier distracted us while scanning in the search of the male Little Bustard. It took us some time but finally Ann got the bird singing half a mile away from us, in a lovely flowered hill. We all got nice scope views before the bird flew to the right, beyond a tiny elevation. We still wait a good quarter, and the bird only appeared briefly in the distance before walking down the hill, losing his shape in the ocean of flowers..
We kept exploring this wonderful plains. Our second stop, near to a colony of Lesser Kestrels, produced several of them but also 2 Red-billed Choughs, showy Little Owls, and a calling Great Spotted Cuckoo that we could not find. Some miles later we had a final morning stop. Here, surrounded by Calandra Larks, we got nice views on two Montagu’s Harrier but also Booted Eagle, and 1 very distant Golden Eagle that was sitting on a small rocky outcrop.
From here, we drove up to one of the rocky spines crossing La Serena. We had arranged a nice meal in a wonderful restaurant nearby, and we only got half an hour to explore the castle and around. It was enough.
We didn’t have to walk for long before Sean found a wonderful male Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush at the base of the escarpment. The bird flew off fast, but the views were excellent, but short! Alpine Swifts were flying low and 1 Egyptian Vulture was crossing the sky along with them, only a fraction of time after we found a nice Black Wheatear male at the top of the cliffs. This was a nice and close view, but we were distracted again by a shape in the sky: a Golden Eagle! Back to the rocks, a pair of Black Redstarts were a nice entertainment while waiting for the Black Wheatear to reappear. Instead, we got scope views on a Blue Rock Thrush singing from a distant tip of the cliffs. At last, we got long views on the Black Wheatear, that was singing at times, before going down to enjoy a fabulous lunch!
After lunch, we drove to Merida to try some urban birding. Firstly we walk some parks along the Tagus. Here we had good views on Common Redstart and Pied Flycatcher, and also intimate views on a wonderful female Lesser Spotted Woodpecker that was feeding only a few meters away from us! Glossy Ibises and Cattle Egrets were all the time flying above us from their nesting colonies at the river, and both Little Egret and Black-crowned Night Herons were also noted. Once on the Roman bridge crossing the Tagus, we got great views on Penduline Tit but also a male Little Bittern, 2 Western Swamphens and 2 Common Sandpipers while Pallid & Alpine Swifts were passing around us. Back to our vehicle, 3 nice Spoonbills appeared in the sky to end the stroll. Even if the original plan was to explore some wetlands, this option was not bad at all!
From here, we just drove back to our accommodation.
Cinereous (rigth) & 2 Griffon Vultures resting at La Serena plains. Image by Peter Sutton. Montagu’s Harrier (Circus pygargus). Image by Peter Sutton.Black Wheatear right before lunch. Image by Peter Sutton.In our short walk in Merida we got great views on Lesser Spotted Woodpecker. Image by Peter Sutton.Pernduline Tit. Image by Peter Sutton.
Day 5. Monfragües % Llanos de Cáceres.Early morning start to go and explore some of the best known birding sites in Extremadura. Monfragüe is an extensive National Park protecting some really well preserved habitats including scrublands, oak forests and small gorges. Being Extremadura mostly plain or ondulate, the Griffon Vulture population and the slim Egyptian Vulture population living in the area concentrates in the small rocky outcrops within the park and in other selected places.
But before going into Monfragüe we had some time to enjoy a small spot of Arrocampo and the extensive debesas around it. In the wetlands we had short views on a Western Swamphen but also migratory Sedge Warbler, Whinchat and some other goodies including a Savi’s Warbler singing close (but never seen), Marsh Harriers and lovely Bee-eaters flying around. From here we transferred to park, with several Iberian Magpies, Hoopoes, Woodchat Shrikes and Woodlarks along the way, but also Common Cuckoo, 2 Rock Sparrows and the only 2 Cirl Buntings of the whole tour!
At the first stop inside the National Park we enjoyed lovely views on Griffons and Black Vultures but also other interesting species including 2 Egyptian Vultures, Subalpine Warbler, scopes views on both Blue Rock Thrush & Rock Bunting and 2 Hawfinches passing over. Still, the very best bird was a wonderful Spanish Imperial Eagle soaring above our heads for long. The full adults of this species always surprise me as they look to have a thin, Harrier-like tail. Proportionally, they always look to me more delicate than other species of eagles, and even far more delicate than young Spanish Imperial Eagles.
From here, we drove through the nice slopes with a couple of productive stops. The first, to pick up a singing Western Orphean Warbler than provided excellent views to the group, and the second to have brief views on one of the just arrived Western Black-eared Wheatears and Subalpine Warbler.
A comfort stop allowed Ann to spot a wonderful Giant Peacock Moth (Saturnia pyri) in a window! From here we drove to the famous “Salto del gitano”, where we spent some time monitoring the skies. Many things were to see in here, including 2 nesting pairs of Black Storks that soared around us, providing great looks to everyone. Both Crag Martins and Red-rumped Swallows were also flying around us. One Spanish Eagle & Egyptian Vultures were also seen along with the common Griffons, and a Peregrine Falcon put itself out of the cliffs for our enjoyment. Blue Rock Thrush & Rock Buntings were singing for long in wonderful lights, the first providing really good photo chances!
Monfragües and the habitat around was full of Booted Eagle. Image by Peter Sutton.One of the many Black Storks moving around. Image by Peter Sutton.Western Orphean Warbler in Monfragüe. Image by Peter Sutton.One of the full adults Spanish Imperial Eagles that we saw in Monfragüe. Image by Peter Sutton.Blue Rock Thrush at El Salto del Gitano. Image by Peter Sutton.European Serin by Peter Sutton.Red-rumped Swallow flying around a bridge. Image by Peter Sutton.Giant Peacock Moth, a great pick up! Image by tour leader Carles OliverTongue-orchid (Serapias lingua) was blossoming around our accommodation.
From Monfragüe we drove South in the way to Càceres, with small flocks of Bee-eaters and Spanish Sparrows all along the way. North of Caceres there are also large extensions of plains. Here we got excellent views on a number of Greater Short-toed Larks but also Thekla’s & Calandra Larks. A minimum of 6 Great Bustards were seen in different stops, and the group celebrated the 3 Rollers in the area that, even if distant, they offered great views. Soaring in the sky, we had a number of White Storks but also small flocks of Black-headed Gulls, Black Vultures, 2 Booted Eagles and a distant Spanish Imperial Eagle. To end the day, we had a stop at Trujillo itself, where we had great views on the colony of Lesser Kestrels at the outskirts of the town.
Thekla’s Lark (Galerida theklae). Image by Peter SuttonGreater Short-toed Lark (Calandrella brachydactyla). Image by Peter Sutton.Lesser Kestrel in one of the colonies around Trujillo.
Day 6. Very last morning of the trip before transferring to Madrid. It is another sunny, bright day with no clouds, neither wind. Our first goal is to check the area where we found a Black-winged Kite a couple of days ago and try to get better views. But we are stopped in the way when a Great Spotted Cuckoo passes right in front of or van. We all jumped out and looked for the bird. It didn’t take long before we contact with the Great Spotted Cuckoo. The area is full of Azure-winged Magpies, and there are actually not one but two Great Spotted Cuckoos. We enjoyed 10 minutes of sighting on the birds, that are actually trying to parasite the Magpies. Several persecutions are seen, with the Magpies trying all the time to disturb the Cuckoos. Here we also see a pair of Common Cuckoo, and all the action goes on in a tiny patch of pines (here the vegetation is dominated by Oaks). A small flock of Bee-eaters is also present and a distant Eurasian Golden Oriole is heard calling in the distance. The views on the Cuckoos are long while it is perched in the pines, and we are all surprised to see the birds mating while the Magpies try to pull them out.
Here we also tried to find the Oriole (first of the year!), but instead we got a flying Lesser Spotted Woodpecker and a singing Willow Warbler.
Once arrived to the Black-winged Kite place, we got hunting but also resting in different tree along the valley, but only when we were leaving is when we got close views on the bird as it was closed to the road. From here we moved South ready to explore our last plains before driving back to Madrid. In the way, another stop was made to see an European Turtle Dove sitting in the wires with both Booted Eagle and Cinereous Vulture circling in the sky at close range.
The morning had gone fast, and we only had one hour the explore near Talavera before going for lunch. But in the plains, one hour is plenty of time when being in the proper patch of habitat!
Once in the plains, we got distant views on Griffons Vultures and some Kites. Moving around the area, it didn’t take long before we got close views on Great Bustards. As always, here you get closer views than in Extremadura. We got 8 individuals that were resting in the fields when we arrived. At the same a time, a very close Cinereous Vulture came to say hi to the group, providing excellent views to all of us. It was not alone, since we also got wonderful views on a young Spanish Imperial Eagle right before a distant Collared Pratincole marked the end of the trip.
Happy with this very successful morning, we just went to enjoy a nice lunch before transferring back to Madrid.
Iberian Magpies looked like less common than in previous years. Image by tour leader Carles OliverFlying Great Spotted Cuckoo. Image by tour leader Carles Oliver.Black-winged Kite scaping the photo from beside the van… Image by tour leader Carles Oliver.Best views on Black Vulture came from the impressive landscapes around Talavera. Habitats sadly overlooked. Image by Peter Sutton.Best views on Spanish Imperial Eagle were made in drylands around Talavera. Image by Carles OliverGreat Spotted Cuckoo by Peter Sutton.Great Bustard in the midday sunshine. Image by Peter Sutton.
All images in this trip report by tour leader Carles Oliver unless otherwise specified. All rights reserved.
Overview: 10th Pyrenees Winter Break issue. This winter in the Pyrenees has been specially unnormal. The winter started normally, with the first snowfall happening in early November. Soon, the trend changed and we faced several weeks without any snowfall and the high temperatures melted the few snow left. With temperatures ranking 25ºC in January, some high mountain specialties changed their normal routines, especially affected were Snow Finches and Citril Finches, but also Alpine Choughs. This anormal situation, made the tour a bit harder than usual. Despite all of this, we got excellent views in the high mountain specialties and many of the steppe birds, with stunning views on both Wallcreeper and Dupont’s Lark, and 8+ Lammergeiers & 5+ Cinereous Vultures seen.
Day 1. After gathering all the tour participants from their accommodations around the city and enjoy tea & coffee stop we headed to the first birding stop of the tour. During the next hour, we walked around a mosaic landscape with some large trees, bushland and crops.
Here we were delighted to see the first Iberian Green Woodpeckers of the trip, quite active in the early morning. The morning was a bit cloudy and, once again, warm for what we can expect in Barcelona in early February. Small flocks of Common Chaffinches were getting out of the fields, and along with them we saw European Serinsand Eurasian Tree Sparrows. Our walk around had a nice start, with a showy Lesser Spotted Woodpecker was calling and drumming from the top of the canopies, and we had really good looks on it for almost five minutes. In this same spot we also got Iberian Green Woodpeckers and a Ring-necked Parakeet exploring some nesting holes. Both Great & Blue Tits were active in the area, and a juvenile Peregrine Falcon did a couple of fast flights in the area, hoping to catch one of the several small birds moving. Other interesting birds here included Eurasian Hoopoe, Eurasian Jay and Common Pheasant. 3 Rock Buntings flew out from the bushes, but unfortunately none of the tour participants had a proper view on them
From the lovely plain in the Llobregat Delta we drove to a small garden around Barcelona where a White-throated Sparrow had been seen. We waited for almost one hour but, unfortunately, the Sparrow didn’t show for us. Still, a nice flock of Red-billed Leiothrix was a great entertainment for us, with some Eurasian Blackcaps and Coal Tits also showing well.
After a short stop for coffees and logistics, we drove up to the hills, with the next stop in the top of the one of the highest mountains between Barcelona and the Pyrenees. Here we had the longest walk of the trip, aiming to connect with the small population of Alpine Accentorsliving there. Fortunately we didn’t have to walk a lot before a lovely flock of at least 12 Alpine Accentors came to us to offer the group wonderful and very long views, with some of the birds performing right in front of us for several minutes! It was midday and in this small peak, normally covered with snow in early February, the sensation was of being late September! We had a comfortable 15ºC when being at 1700m above the sea level! Even in such a conditions, it was very surprising to find a femaleHen Harrier hunting in the slopes of the mountains, and moreover, to see 3 Dartford Warblers singing and chasing each other in the tall vegetation. This is only a summer visitor to this habitat, normally covered by snow. Dartford Warblers spend the winter at lower altitudes, waiting for the snow to melt and temperatures to arise up (this is normally happening by late March or early April).
From here we covered the short distance of driving to the first hillsides of the Pyrenees where, even before arriving to the planned stop, we had to do a stop in one of its minor roads, that appeared covered by hundreds of Finches. Here we got the first excellent views on Common Crossbill, with some superb males singing from the top of the Mountain Pines. Hundreds of Eurasian Siskins were calling and singing here, probably moving North to their nesting grounds in Northern Europe. Eurasian Goldfinch, Coal & Crested Tits, Goldcrestand Mistle Thrushwere all seen here, some of them providing great looks. At least 2 Citril Finches were noted inside this massive flock of birds, but they flew over almost unnoticed and I fell to put anyone in the group on the Finches, that fastly disappeared in the forest.
The afternoon was well advanced when we had our last stop of the day. This time to have some time in a lovely subboreal forest. Here, we were again surrounded by Common Crossbills and Siskins and only one minute after leaving the van we had a Black Woodpeckercalling not far away. It took us only a pair of minutes to contact with the bird, that was active with a variety of calls to finally stop in a large, dead trunk. There we enjoyed long views as the bird was first calling and then preening before going away. We still had some more time in this lovely habitat, but it didn’t produce anything else out of a pair of showy Great Spotted Woodpeckersand 1 Eurasian Nuthatch.
Close up on Common Buzzard (Buteo buteo) to start the tour.Red-billed Leiothrix (Leiothrix lutea) has a small population in the forests around Barcelona.Alpine Accentor (Prunella collaris) was worth every step un the hill!Common Crosbill (Loxia curvirostra) has been a common sight along this winter in the Pyrenees.We enjoyed rather distant but long views on Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius).
Day 2. After enjoying our breakfast in our quiet accommodation in La Cerdanya valley, we spent the next couple of hours exploring the valley immediately beside. Here, a number of selected stops produced a good list of birds that included large numbers of Mistle Thrushes and Redwings with some Fieldfares but also really good views on Short-toed Treecreeper, Common Crossbills, Crested Tit and, especially, gorgeous looks on Rock Buntings that seemed very active and ready to start the nesting season.
From here, we drove inside Andorra. All the main mountain passes in this area of Catalonia had no snow at the moment, and our only hope to find Snow Finches was to go inside Andorra and do some stops along a mountain pass reaching 2500 metres above the sea level and sky resort located nearby. Once there, we saw that the amount of snow was also really thin, and the sunny weather reduced our chances to connect with the Finches even thinner. Still, we enjoyed very lovely views on Alpine Choughs as they were feeding around the sky resort but also acting almost as Wallcreepers in the buildings around!
Crossing Andorra, we headed South towards the most impressive spot for large raptors in the Pyrenees. Even if the intense Andorran traffic made us go slowly, we arrived to the hillsides around Isona with the sun well high in the sky. Moreover, in our way out of Andorra we got excellent views on White-throated Dippers.
The rest of the afternoon we drove along a pair of tracks, with several stops to enjoy the many birds of prey in the sky. After three hours, a conservative count showed out 7 Lammergeiers, hundreds of Eurasian Griffons and 12 Cinereous Vultures. We got several excellent views, with adult Lammergeiers passing only tens of metres away from the van; Lammergeierscircling along with Cinereous Vultures; or a flock of 15 Griffonsand 4 Lammergeiers all circling together to name some of most celebrated sights. Due to the multiple stops to enjoy the several raptors in the sky, we arrived to our accommodation a bit later than expected, but with some unforgettable memories!
Rock Bunting (Emberiza cia) singing his heart out for us.Alpine Chough (Phyrrocorax graculus) Alpine Chough close up in our visit in Andorra.Lammergeier (Gypaetos barbatus), one of the several enjoyed.A pair of Lammergeiers almost touching wings. Cinereous Vulture (Aegypius monachus) has a small but healthy population in the Pyrenees.
Day 3. After breakfast, we covered the short distance from Lleida to the first gorges in the Pyrenees. Once there, we spent a couple of hours enjoying the rocky outcrops. Blue Rock Thrush had a short appearance, but Firecrests and Goldcrest gave us long views. In the cliffs, Griffons Vultures were nesting along with Rock Sparrows. In the river along the gorge, Dippers were moving up and down along with Grey Wagtails. Other birds here included Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Cirl Buntings and Sardinian Warbler.
But the main reason to come was another, and a really important one. To be fair, the Wallcreeper overwintering in the gorge didn’t take long to appear, but we had to wait a bit before everybody in the group could connect with it. Still, we were really lucky, and a Wallcreeperappeared at its typical place a bit after 10:00 in the morning. The bird was half way up in the cliff, and not very showy. We had to wait for 5 minutes before the bird, suddenly, decided to come down by the tarmac! The next 10 minutes were some of the most intense in our Pyrenean outings this winter, with extremely close views on this Wallcreeper, while the bird was moving really low along the gorge. At times, we had ti sensation of be able even of touching the bird!
Wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria) at close range. Image by Mark Dowie.Another great shot on Wallcreeper. Please note the delicate design of the undertail coverts. Image by Mark Dowie.
After enjoying such a wonderful views on the one of the main specialties living in the mountains we drove down to the plains. There, large flocks of European Golden Plovers and Northern Lapwings were waiting for us. We have our lunch stop by a small pond, where we had Northern Shovelers, Common Pochards, Little Grebes, Eurasian Coots & Teals, 2 Green Sandpipers but also large flocks of White Storks in the move from their roosting places around Lleida. The area was also good for small birds and European Stonechat, Meadow Pipit, Eurasian Skylark, Crested Lark, Chiffchaff, Linnet, Reed Bunting and Eurasian Tree Sparrow were noted.
After lunch we changed to a second pond, and our visit was granted with nice views on 7 Ferruginous Ducks, a very scarce bird in Catalonia!
Driving East, we arrived to an area with a very different landscape. Here, small but cleverly managed fields still allow a good density of Little Bustards. This species, formerly fairly common in Iberia, had become almost a scarcity, and its winter flocks have been severely decimated. A first stop was done to try to connect with a pair of Black-winged Kites nesting in the area, but we only got a small flock of Woodlarks, several Corn Buntings and multiple views on Red Kite & Marsh Harrier. A bit further, 4 Little Bustards were seen by the road, and we got good views from the van to don’t disturb the birds.
The last stop of the day was deserved to the desert-like ambients South of Lleida, where we had a short walk to enjoy the first Thekla’s Larks of the trip along with lovely flocks of Red-billed Choughs, Spotless Starlings, Rock Sparrows and a Black Wheatear that refused to show for the group! It was already quite late, but we decided to have a very last stop, and our effort was very worth. We still had to get out of the van when we listened and Eurasian Eagle Owl calling from somewhere in the valley. After a fast scanning, we decided to go for a slow short walk, and after a few metres Mark got the bird singing from a dead branch up in the hillside. During the few minutes, we got amazing scope views on the bird while some Redwings were attending their roosting site. A superb way to end another very good day!
Part of the flock of Ferruginous Ducks (Aythya nyroca) seen around Lleida.Little Bustard (Tetrax tetrax) female feeding.Eagle Owl calling from its perch. Image by Mark Dowie.
Day 4. After a sunny start of the trip, this was a grey and rainy day. A difficult weather to search for the specialties living in the steppes. Still, we went to explore the endless plains in central Monegros. A first stop in a small salty lagoon produced the only Kentish Plover of the trip along with Common Shelducks and Black-headed Gulls. From here, we got in the plains, but the muddy tracks made difficult for us to arrive to some locations. Still, we were lucky enough to contact with 2 nice Black-bellied Sandgrouses that provided flying views. 1 Little Owl was also a nice sight while flocks of Calandra & Skylarks were flying over the fields. After a couple of hours checking around the rain became heavier, and we decided to go for a service stop. It was a fortunate choice since the sky cleared right when we were leaving the coffee shop.
Back to the plains, we managed to arrive to a nice spot and soon we found a nice of 11 Pin-tailed Sandgrouses that stayed on a field for us for about 20 minutes. Here we had nice scope views with some good photo and video chances. Several Calandra & Crested Larks were singing here, and as the sun became stronger, the first Mediterranean Short-toed Larks (aka Lesser Short-toed Larks) of the trip were noted. From here we moved into a different section of the plains, and we were lucky to find a nice flock of 31 Common Cranes feeding on the ground at close range, and a closer flock of Eurasian Griffons on the ground, waiting for the weather to improve. Here we also got a nice male Hen Harrier flying over the large fields, and 2 extra Little Owls! But unfortunately the rain started again, even heavier than before and we decided to move away, trying to put some distance from the mud and the rain.
But when we arrive to our new accommodation, the rain was also there for us, and we decided to end the day after enjoying a distant view on a new Little Owl.
Pin-tailed Sandgrouses (Pterocles alchata) feeding under the rain.
Day 5. After enjoying breakfast, we headed out to the large steppes immediatly South of Zaragoza. This is a wonderful are to enjoy steppe birds, with multiple places where to go and try to find the different specialties living in the region. After the generous rain of the previous day, we woke up in a sunny day with only some clouds.
We started driving in the minor tracks crossing the steppes and soon got 2 Black-bellied Sandgrouses in a farming area. Beyond, both Calandra and Mediterranean Short-toed Larks started singing, offering both really good looks. It didn’t take long before we got a first Dupont’s Lark singing. It looked like far away, but then a second bird started singing a bit closer. Some Short-toed Larks were around, feeding and providing some photo opportunities. The wind started to pick up, but both Dupont’s Larks were still singing. We put out the scopes, trying to see them in the ocean of grass in front of us, but we couldn’t contact with the bird..
After 40 minutes of scan we decided to move away and try a different spot. By that time the wind was already strong. A new Lesser Short-toed Lark in good light was welcome by the photographers in the group, but suddenly a second bird appeared right behind the Short-toed Lark. A Dupont’s Lark sitting in the top of a small bush only 10 metres away from us!! Soon we were all having the bird and celebrating our luck.
Mediterranean Short-toed Lark (Alaudala rufescens). Lovely views on a singing Dupont’s Lark (Chersophilus duponti) after a couple of hours of waiting! Image by tour leader Carles OliverThekla’s Lark (Galerida theklae) close up to end our exploration of the steppes.
Leaving the steppes, we still had a pair of Red-billed Choughs displaying around and 2 Black-bellied Sandgrouses plus a pair of superb Golden Eagles in the highway. But certainly the wind had picked up in the last minutes. We started the final transfer to Barcelona, having a stop in a lovely lagoon with a wonderful reedbed. Unfortunately, by the time we arrived to the lagoon the wind was so strong that it was almost not possible to stand up, and we had to search refuge in a blind and even inside the van to enjoy our packed lunches. Here, we only got Gadwalls and Great Crested Grebes and the very strong wind made no possible to contact with any passerine living in the reeds.
Despite the strong wind, we still had something to add to our list and a small detour to explore a sheltered gorge produced a nice male Black Wheatear in the top of a small cliff, providing good views to all the members of the group. This very last minute sight was really appreciated, since the first contact with this species, a couple of days before, was poor and not everyone in the group actually so the bird.
After this short stop, we just transferred back to Barcelona to end our tour around the airport by mid afternoon.
Overview: 10th issue of our tour exploring Morocco in early spring. Arranged with the group months in advance, the tour was for 1 day in order to look for Dupont’s Lark. Our group enjoyed very stable weather all the tour long, with only an afternoon of strong wind that made difficult to find many birds. Temperatures were mild when not cool, making the birdwatching very pleasant during almost all the days. The severe drought affecting the whole Morocco had, anyway, a strong impact in our tour since most of the wetlands visited during the trip were dry or had a very low level of water. The poor water management along with the severe droughts and the over exploted subsoil waters put in a high risk the survival of most of the wetlands in this part of the world. However, we got excellent numbers of steppe birds during the trip, with more Thick-billed & Desert Larks than in any previous tour! Numbers of migratory birds were acceptable and far better than the tour in 2022, when we had almost none of them for 10 days. The excellent views on Dupont’s Lark rank high in the memories of the trip, along with the very enjoyable sights in most desert specialists.
Day 1. After a coordinated arrival to our accommodation in Marrakech, the whole group met for breakfast early in the morning. After enjoying the coffee, tea and some fruits and eggs, we left to explore the Atlas mountains. It was a very sunny day and warm day in Marrakech and before leaving we enjoyed a stop to see the hundreds of Pallid Swifts around, the fast wing beats of the Little Swifts and some urban birds including Eurasian Blackbird, Common Woodpigeon and Red-rumped Swallow.
After negotiating the traffic in Marrakech, a short transfer led us to the first proper stop of the trip. There, a line of mature trees are the perfect nesting habitat for Woodpeckers. A pair of minutes after the group was enjoying the firsts African Blue Tits of the tour, that were to join an interesting selection of birds seen during the transfer including Cetti’s Warbler, Moroccan & Grey Wagtails, African Chaffinches, European Serins, White Wagtails and Lesser Kestrels. A short walk along the tree line produced also Great Tit, Blackcaps and Little Swifts and soon after a Levaillant’s Green Woodpecker flew off from the trees to feed in the almond orchads around. During the next 15 minutes the group enjoyed non-stop views on the female woodpecker while looking for ants in the red soil. The only one Eurasian Wren of trip was heard around, and a lovely Atlas Great Spotted Woodpecker performed really well for us. Before going back to the van, a Short-toed Treecreeper appeared as well. The form living in Morocco, under the mauretanica race, is always a very interesting bird to see, as it likely to be split and be a species in its own. Other birds here included Song Thrush, Grey Heron and the very first Short-toed Snake Eagle of the tour!
Back to the road, we started the transfer up to the top of the Atlas. Along the way we had a lovely stop to enjoy another Maghreb endemic, the Tristam’s Warbler. Scanning a lovely slope full of junipers, it didn’t take us long to locate some of them, and after some time waiting one male came down the slope and showed really well. Here we also got the very first of many Moussier’s Redstarts and lovely views on Rock Buntings plus a very distant Booted Eagle.
Lesser Kestrel (Falco naumanni) in our way up to the Atlas. Image by tour participant Mark Newsome.Levaillant’s Woodpecker (Picus vaillantii), the only endemic woodpecker in Northern Africa. Image by tour leader Carles OliverAfrican Blue Tit (Cyanistes teneriffeae) favours decideous trees. Image by Carles OliverShort-toed Treecreeper (Certhia brachydactyla), the local race is a good candidate to become a full species. Image by Carles OliverTristam’s Warbler (Curruca deserticola), a specialist of mountain scrublands in the Atlas. Image by Carles Oliver
As we were winning altitude, the landscape changed from the junipers to the Spanish Firs first and then to the high mountain grasslands. There, it was already possible to enjoy large flocks of both Alpine & Red-billed Choughs, and the whole Oukaïmeden was flooded with their characteristic calls. Once parked, a stroll aorund produced several Black Redstarts, Common Rock Sparrows and a pair of Grey Wagtails. The area was really full of locals that have come up in the mountains to enjoy the snow, and we had to go a bit away from them to contact with a first flock of African Crimson-winged Finches! First we found 5, then 7, 11, 15 and so on!! Perched in the buildings and feeding on the ground, this endemics bird to the Atlas provided the group with great views!
Happy with this great views we went for dinner in a restaurant nearby, and better views on both Choughs were done while waited to be served. After lunch, a second stroll around produced not only great views on Mistle Thrush, Thekla Lark, Rock Sparrow and obliging Atlas Horned Larks but also a rather unexpected male Seebohm’s Wheatear (also refered as Atlas Wheatear) feeding in the grasslands! This bird was really celebrated in the group, that was well aware that the fenology of the species (arriving to the Atlas by the end of March after spending the winter in the Southern part of the Sahel) makes the species often difficult to find in this tour.
Atlas Wheatear (Oenanthe seebohmi), another specialty living in the the Atlas grasslands. Image by Mark Newsome.Firecrest (Regulus ignicapilla) on Spanish Fir showing out its name! Image by Mark Newsome.Red-billed Chough (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax), a common bird around Oukaïmeden. Image by Carles OliverThe atlas race of Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris) is only living in the Atlas high mountain grasslands. Image by Carles OliverAfrican Crimson-winged Finch (Rhodopechys alienus), another Atlas endemic. Image by Carles OliverHere showing the crimson wings. Image by Carles Oliver
Day 2. The day started with a pre dawn walk in the streets of Marrakech. Our goal was to locate the endemic Maghreb Owl, that is having a small population in different gardens of the city. We couldn’t be more lucky when, after only 15 minutes of search, our efforts were granted with a wonderful Maghreb Owl sitting in a small tree! During the next minutes, we all enjoyed great views on it before it flew off, back to the gardens!
After breakfast, transfer to Agadir. Once leaving behind the massive plains around Marrakech, we had a stop near the coast immediately South of Essaouira to enjoy the birds living in the famous Argan trees, a evergreen species that produces a really appreciated seed used in cosmetic industries, lotions and so.
Maghreb Owl (Strix mauretanica) was one of the most celebrated birds of the trip! Image by Carles Oliver
The day was warm but the Atlantic never stop to send fog inland, and during most of the day the ambient was a bit misty. Soon after stopping we had Western Orphean Warblers singing and displaying around, some of them being really obliging! African Chaffinches were common there and with some patience we also found Western Bonelli’s Warbler, European Bee-eater, Common Redstart and Woodchat Shrike. Neil enjoyed the stop so much that decided to stay a bit longer than expected… Nothing serious, only a rather long stroll
From here our next stop was to explore the sandy plains around one largest colony of Northern Bald Ibis. There we has an interesting set of species including some good flocks of Greater Short-toed Larks, Spectacled Warbler, Thekla Lark and a distant Barbary Falcon that was enjoying a prey on the ground. A bit of sea watching was made as we were waiting for the Ibises to appear, adding Audouin’s Gull and Lesser Black-backed Gull to our list. There, Mark was lucky enough to have 1 Atlantic Puffin flying North! Some Northern Bald Ibises were flying up and down but always distant.
After about one hour waiting in the area, we finally were rewarded with a nice flock of 8 Northern Bald Ibis landing in the plains only 200 metres away from us. Our group enjoyed great views on them while they were preening and feeding a bit around. Excellent views that were really celebrated by the group. When leaving, we got a flock of migrating Wheatears feeding next to the road: 1 Western Black-eared male, 1 Seebohm’s male, and 2 Northern Wheatears!
After some lunch rest, we drove the short distance to the small Tamri Estuary, were we had the firsts Ruddy Shelducks of the trip along with 20+ Kentish Plovers, Moroccan Wagtail, Audouin’s Gulls and several Western Yellow Wagtail plus Ringed Plovers, Subalpine Warblers, Red-rumped Swallows, Grey Heron, Little Ringed Plovers, 4 Ruffs and 20+ Northern Bald Ibis in flight!
Western Orphean Warbler (Curruca hortensis) favours orchads and tall, sparse maquis. Image by Carles OliverNorthern Bald Ibises (Geronthicus eremita) taking care of their plomage. Image by Carles OliverMaghreb Magpie (Pica mauretanica), a common endemic along the Moroccan Atlantic coast. Image by Carles Oliver
Going South, we negotiated the always challenging traffic in Agadir to explore the Souss Estuary, one of the best brackish wetlands in this part of Morocco. Here we had a good selection of waders but always with little numbers if compared with previous years. Some noted species included Eurasian Whimbrel, Black-winged Stilts, Osprey, Grey Plovers, Ringed & Kentish Plovers, Common Redshanks, Greenshanks, both Black-tailed & Bar-tailed Godwits, Whimbrel, 6 Red Knots as well as Pied Avocets and Oystercatchers. Here the group also enjoyed close views on the beautiful Maghreb Magpies and flocks of tern including several Sandwich Terns and very vocal Gull-billed Terns along with a solitary Common Tern.
From here we drove a last transfer to our accommodation in the Souss-Massa National Park, where we had a fly over Stone Curlew some miles before arriving to our hotel.
Day 3. The cloudy morning provided us with a very comfortable temperature. This day was devoted to explore the Massa River and nearby areas. After breakfast, we only had to walk a few meters to contact with the first of many Black-crowned Tchagras, wonderful bird that was calling and showing out nearby our van. A short drive of only 5 minutes allowed the group to explore a pair of corners with excellent birding. The numbers of migratory warblers were good all along the river, and in the next 90 minutes we got a good array of warblers including Sardinian, Western Subalpine, Western Orphean, Cetti’s, Zitting Cisticola, Iberian Chiffchaff, Willow Warbler, Western Bonelli’s plus first views on Western Olivaceous Warbler singing and calling in the tamarisks. Moussier’s Redstarts were a common view around while the bush were full of migratory warblers. Flocks of Spanish Sparrows were flying around, and some provided close views along with really obliging Cirl Buntings, African Chaffinches and European Stonechats. Another wonderful spot was a Little Owl perched low in a small bush.
Black-crowned Tchagra (Tchagra senegalensis) holds good densities along the Massa River. Image by Carles OliverSardinian Warbler (Sylvia melanocephala), a common view around Marrakech and the Atlantic coast. Image by Mark Newsome.Moussier’s Redstart (Phoenicurus moussieri), one of the most atractive birds in the area. Image by Carles OliverThe African Chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs africana) is a very distinctive form, and an eternal candidate to become a full species. Image by Carles Oliver
Up in the air there were small flocks of Little Swifts but also Common & Pallid Swifts while some European Bee-eaters were flying around. In the ponds, the waterfowl was scarce due to the low level of water, but our first stops still produced Common Kingfisher, Glossy Ibis, a lovely Purple Heron and a roosting flock of Night Herons. Tree Pipits, Common Quail and Melodious Warbler were all heard, and we got some views in all of them, out of the Quail.. In one of this ponds, we had the first Brown-throated Martin of the day, all the whole group enjoyed close views on this tiny swallow while hunting insects around. This is a decreasing species in Morocco, currently with only a few colonies left, mainly in the wetlands along the Atlantic coast.
The very last pond before lunch produced not only warblers also Eurasian Teals, Wood & Green Sandpipers and Little Ringed Plovers.
After lunch the clouds disapeared and the lovely blue sky was back. We went to explore the Massa River mouth. En route, we had Black-winged Kite & Western Marsh Harrier + Tawny Pipit and Greater Short-toed Larks. Once in the area, we were surprised by the few birdlife there. Here we only had distant views Eurasian Spoonbills, Ruddy Shelducks, Northern Shovelers, Kentish Plovers, Greenshanks while the scrublands around had a few migratory warblers and small floks of Common Linnets and European Serins.
Back to our vehicles, the rest of the afternoon was devoted to sea watching in nearby coastal cliffs. Despite the rather misty ambient and the hard light with the sun placed above the sea we got a fine selection of sea birds including several Arctic Skuas moving South (!) as well as small numbers of Balearic, Cory’s & Manx Shearwaters mainly moving North. Large flocks of Oystercatchers were migrating along the coast and, as the afternoon went on, the group was able to catch up with some other sea birds including Pomarine & Great Skuas and some Razorbills, all of them moving back North to their nesting grounds in Europe.
Day 4. This day we left Agadir in a very cloudy ambient that was to be with us until we crossed the Anti Atlas. Beyond there we enjoyed the sun in the Ouarzazate basin, but also the very windy conditions. A first stop was done en route to enjoy a pair of Black-winged Kites by the road. Our group was lucky enough to enjoy some mating, with the mail very nervous and flying all the time from a prominent perch to the female and back. Both individuals were really excited, even with some calls in a species that is really silent in average. The whole scene was ideal to capture some shots of the bird, and it was one of the best raptor experiences along the trip in a country that is having every time less and less birds of prey in its skies due to direct prosecution.
Along with the Black-winged Kites, we also enjoyed here some Crested Larks but also flocks of Spanish Sparrows, Eurasian Blackcaps, Corn Bunting and another singing Melodious Warbler that only gave us partial views..
Western Bonelli’s Warbler (Phylloscopus bonelli), a common migratory bird. Image by Carles OliverA mating pair of Black-winged Kites (Elanus caeruleus) was a nice surprise during one of the transfers. Image by Carles Oliver Black-winged Kite (Elanus caeruleus) ready to land. Image by Carles OliverDesert Larks (Ammomanes deserti) were this year as common as ever. Image by Carles Oliver
Back in the road we had a pair of additional stops in the road to enjoy the firsts of many Trumpeter Finches and Desert Larks before arriving to the large barrage immediately South of Ouarzazate. There, we spent a pair of really productive hours before the final drive to Boulmane du Dades, but even before arriving to the wetland, in a stop to buy some cold drinks in Ouarzazate we had a first flock of hundreds of Black Kites with several Booted & Short-toed Eagles moving along with them! It was great to see all these birds moving above the city centre as they were flying South to look for some sheltered place to spend the night around the dump.
The dump around Ouarzazate covers a large area, has several access points, and to explore it is always challenging. Just arriving we founds a flock of 8 Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters feeding by the access road, and their flights and calls delighted the group for quite long. In that same place, the firsts Maghreb Larks of the trip showed up, providing the group with great views with its typical tame behaviour. Sand Martin, Western Black-eared Wheatear, Desert Lark, Willow Warbler and European Bee-eater were all noted as we moved on and lovely migratory flock of Kentish Plovers resting in the desert delighted us with excellent views before we could reach the proper place to scan for waterfowl. Yes, a small detour was necessary to arrive, and some tamarisks still remember the underneath of our van, but we arrived!
Unfortunately was windy, and the waterfowl was inside the reedbeds. Meadow Pipit, Great Crested Grebe, Yellow Wagtail and Eurasian Coots were noted. At least 2 Montagu’s Harrier, including one male, were seen flying above the reeds along with several Marsh Harriers. It was a bit disappointing but after some wait, a Marsh Harrier flew really low over the reeds and a massive flock of 60+ Marbled Teals appeared in the sky, flying along the reeds and giving good scope looks to the group! After such a wonderful sight, we waited some more time, and smaller flocks of Marbled Teals were again seen moving up and down, but after some time it was clear that we were not going to have a better/closer view on the birds, so we decided to leave towards our accommodation for an evening meal and some rest.
Booted Eagle (Aquila pennata) over Ouarzazate. Image by Mark Newsome.Blue-cheecked Bee-eater (Merops persicus), a wonderful beauty! Image by Mark Newsome.Maghreb Larks (Galerida macrorhyncha) are common in farmlands around the desert like ambients. Image by Carles OliverKentish Plovers (Charadrius alexandrinus) chose the desert to do a break on their migration. Image by Carles Oliver
Day 5. A bit windy but sunny day in the endless plains inmediatly South of Boulmane du Dades. This day we were concentrated in locating the many goodies living in the wonderful steppe lands East and South from Boulmane du Dades.
The morning was a bit windy but the firsts stops exploring the steppe lands produced soon good birds including Thekla’s & Greater Short-toed Larks, the first Desert Wheatears of the tour along with the much scarcer Red-rumped Wheatear and the always wonderful Temminck’s Lark. A short walk around the rubbish dump produced one of the main targets of the day, 3 wonderful Thick-billed Larks that were feeding around along with Temminck’s. We could enjoy at least two of them for quite long, and the group was really delighted to enjoy such a great birding, even if the habitat around was not as pristine as one could expect, and definately more smelly than an average patch of steppe.. Despite the poor environment, here we also had White & Western Yellow Wagtails, Little Ringed Plover and Meadow & Tawny Pipits.
From here had a pair more of stops where we had Atlas Buzzard (the status of the cirtensis form, formerly treated as a Long-legged Buzzard race, is under discussion), several Black Kites, Marsh Harriers and 1 Montagu’s Harrier. We also enjoyed really close views on Temminck’s Larks and obliging Desert Wheatears.
The temperature raised up, and our jackets were a bit less essential. Beyond the plain, a number of small canyons lead to the mountainous areas South of the Draa River. A stop in one of the many villages there produced close and long views on Trumpeter Finches along with European Serins, Linnets and Algerian Shrike.
Back to the plains, we went to some farm lands. This is a typical place for Larks to concentrate but this time the area looked like empty. Still, a short walk around produced 3 wonderful Thick-billed Larks feeding around. The trees around had also Woodchat Shrike, Tree Pipit, Western Bonelli’s Warbler, Common Whitethroat and Western Subalpine Warbler. From here, a short drive led us to a large, open plain in the middle of the steppes. This is a typical place for Cream-coloured Coursers, and soon we located the first of them. After some cautious approach we all enjoyed wonderful views on them, and finally we counted a minimum of 12 moving around them. When leaving, a pair of Black-bellied Sandgrouses showed up in front of us, and we had enough time to go out and enjoy lovely scope views on both of them!
Female Red-rumped Wheatear (Oenanthe moesta). Image by Carles OliverNothing can compare to the delicate facial & breast pattern on Temminck’s Larks (Eremophila bilopha). Image by Carles OliverEven with all that rubbish, Thick-billed Lark (Ramphocorys clotbei) keeps being wonderful! Image by Carles OliverOur secret corner worked once more, and this time provided our group with great views on Thick-billed Larks! Image by Carles OliverCream-coloured Coursers (Cursorior cursor) were just arriving to their nesting grounds. Image by Carles OliverIt took us some time to locate the female Black-bellied Sandgrouse (Pterocles orientalis)! Image by Carles Oliver
Back to our accommodation, we enjoyed a nice lunch and some rest before going to explore a different location. The ondulations around Boulmane produces a number of canyons and we spent some time exploring of them. It didn’t take long before we got the firsts specialties, and Desert Wheatears, Trumpeter Finches and Desert Larks showed really well before enjoying a nice pair of the very scarce and elusive Maghreb Wheatear while moving in the barren slope. This is another Maghreb endemic, only known form a thin stripe crossing Morocco, Algeria & Tunisia and formerly considered conspecific with Mourning Wheatear, a Levant specialty. Atlas Buzzard and Common Kestrels were also noted here, and we also had some views on a roosting Pharaon Eagle Owl that, unfortunately, was really deep inside a hole and never came out enough to provide the group with a full view.
The last stop of the day was quite a change of ambient. Driving up the very scenic Gorge du Dades, with its many wonderful Kashbahs and colourful dressed women, we arrived to a small cliff. Just arrived we had a fast and interesting bird spectacle in front us: 2 Peregrine Falcons being moved by a much smaller, longer tailed, Barbary Falcon! The Peregrines looked like the owners of the cliff at the moment, as we even saw the pair passing food to each other. The Barbary Falcon, higher at all times, disappeared beyond the cliff. We waited for some time to have better views on the Barbary Falcon, and a showy Blue Rock Thrush and some Booted Eagles moving up the valley helped us to have a good entertainment. The Barbary Falcon showed a pair of times more in the sky, and we decided to end the afternoon soon enough to have some rest in the accommodation before dinner.
Spinny-tailed Lizzard (Uromastyx acanthinura). Image by Carles Oliver
Day 6. A transtional day between the high plateaus around Boulmane du Dades and the sandy deserts around Merzouga. The morning was sunny but fresh, with a cold air coming down from the Atlas that made our first stop really comfortable. The first stop in the morning was to look for the rather scarce Saharan Scrub Warbler, an endemic form of the Levant Scrub Warbler living in the sparse bushlands along wadis but also up in the slopes in the Northern slope of the Atlas mountains.
Our short walk produced almost immediately the first Bar-tailed Larks of the trip as well as confiding Mediterranean Short-toed Larks. Walking along the wadi we had a good set of the typical species living in this kind of habitats including Spectacled Warbler, Trumpeter Finches and Deser Wheatear plus migratory species such as Western Subalpine Warbler and Northern Wheatear. After a good while scanning the area we were starting to think about going somewhere else when Rob found 2 Scrub Warblers feeding at close range from us.
The birds, as typical on them, where feeding really low in the base of the small scrubs, making very difficult to see them for longer than a pair of seconds. Jumping from bush to bush, the Scrub Warblers moved really fast along the wadi, covering a lot of ground, flying from bush to bush but also “running” in the sand like tiny Babblers and typically standing by the base of a bush, tail-ups, before disappearing inside the grass.
After enjoying the Scrub Warblers for 20 minutes we started to come to the van, but we still had a pair of sights: First, a Cream-coloured Courser that flew over us while calling and secondly, a pair of Bar-tailed Larks showing quite close, as tame as ever.
Saharan Scrub Warbler (Scotocerca inquieta saharae) frozen in a jump. A great shot by Mark Newsome.Trumpeter Finch (Bucanetes githagineus) feeding on seeds. Image by Mark Newsome.Desert Wheatear males (Oenanthe deserti) can be really tame. Image by Carles Oliver
From here we drove into a close restaurant and enjoy some shade. After lunch, we covered the short distance to our next accommodation with a number of stops in the way. Desert Grey Shrike was added to our list, as well as Brown-necked Raven. A longer stop to explore another wadi produced good views on the common list of migratory species including Willow, Western Subalpine & Western Bonelli’s Warblers, but also Black-eared Wheatear & Western Orphean Warbler.
The last stop of the day was devoted to the typical habitat of Greater Hoopoe Lark, and it didn’t take long before having the first sight for trip of this really appreciated species: 2 individuals, one of them singing and displaying in flight. A great sight to end another wonderful day!
Day 7. This day was devoted to explore the desert around Merzouga. This is a quite well known place for the many desert specialties living around. It was a sunny and pleasant day all through, with a fresh brise during most of the day.
Our first stop was around a water hole where we did stop to look for Sandgrouses coming to drink water from several kilometers away. We didn’t have to wait long since even before our arrival some flocks of Crowned Sandgrouses were already on the ground, waiting for the best moment to approach the water. After some waiting, we id enjoy several flocks of both Crowned and Spotted Sandgrouses coming to the plain around the small pond, and soon their calls and wing beats filled up the ambient. This was a wonderful moment, and all the tour participants were really happy to see 80+ Crowned & 40+ Spotted Sandgrouses coming to drink water! We left the area with still more Sandgrouses coming to drink water, but we had to move to our next stop, a nomadic camp nearby where a pair of Desert Sparrow was nesting.
It was time for us to enjoy some tea, and our patience in the camp was rewarded with amazing views on a Desert Sparrow male that was feeding right the tents! The bird was really tame and allowed excellent images. Here, a Greater Hoopoe Lark also appeared, and provided the group with the best views on this species along the trip. White-crowned Black Wheatear, Common Redstart and Brown-necked Raven were also noted here.
Leaving this sandy patch of the desert, we drove North into a large wady where a nomad was waiting for us. His expertise was needed to find the next target of the trip, and after a short walk in the wady he brought directly to one Egyptian Nightjar that was roosting in the wadi. Respecting a good distance from the bird, we all enjoyed a wonderful view in this magnificent bird! A further walk around the dunes was also productive and Greater Hoopoe Larks and Desert Wheatears showed well, but the very best of the walk was to find a nice African Desert Warbler doing its way around the sparse vegetation of the wadi! This is again a desert specialist, and one of the most tricky birds to find in Morocco!
Crowned Sandgrouses (Pterocles coronata) around a water hole. Image by tour leader Carles OliverSpotted Sandgrouses (Pterocles senegallus) have been outnumbered by Crowneds in recent years. Image by Carles OliverWhite-crowned Wheatears (Oenanthe leucopygia) are urban birds in the desert. Image by Carles OliverDesert Sparrow (Passer ) favoured us with really close views. Image by Mark NewsomeGreater Hoopoe Lark (Alaemon alaudipes), the commoner lark around Merzouga. Image by Carles OliverEgyptian Nightjar (Caprimulgus aegyptiacus). Image by Carles OliverAfrican Desert Warbler (Curruca deserti) inhabits along the wadi scrublands. Image by Carles Oliver
Happy after such a great views we went for some rest and lunch in a close accommodation. But in our way we had to do another stop: During the morning we had several flocks of Black Kites migrating North over the desert along with some Western Marsh Harriers, but one of these flocks was joined by a lovely Egyptian Vulture, the only one for the trip!
Our picnic was really tasty and, walking around the accommodation we enjoy it not only Western Subalpine Warblers & other common migratory birds but also Woodchat Shrike, Spanish Sparrow, Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters and a really tame Eastern Olivaceous Warbler (Iduna pallida reiseri) that posed really well for all the tour participants!
After lunch we tried to improve our rather scarce list of raptors but we were unlucky and the very last stop of the day was devoted to explore a small crop area with some water. Here we had several Western Yellow Wagtails of different races (nominal, Spanish, Italian & British) but also Maghreb Larks, Eurasian Crag Martin, Red-rumped Swallow, Little Ringed Plover, Wood Sandpiper, Northern Grey Shrike, Meadow Pipit, Greater Short-toed Lark and Ruddy Shelduck to name a few!
Western Yellow Wagtail (Motacilla flava). Image by Mark NewsomeEastern Olivaceous Warbler (Iduna pallida reiseri), often refered as Saharan Olivaceous Warbler. Image by Mark Newsome.Ruddy Shelducks (Tadorna ferruginea) nest in good numbers in paddy fields. Image by Carles Oliver
Day 8. Due to the long drought and the terrible water management in the areas, the once famous and extremelly famous Merzouga lake is now gone. With the lake gone, this morning we explored a pair of corners in search of a good migratory action.
Firstly we explored the grounds of a nearby hotel, where we got more common migratory birds plus Western Orphean Warbler, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, Common Whitethroat, European Bee-eater and Woodchat Shrike. From here we drove the short distance to the major palm grove in the area, where we had double figures of Common Whitethroat and Willow Warblers while Garden Warbler, European Turtle Dove and Bluethroat were added to the list. Here we enjoyed also great views on a family group of Fulvous Babbler, including an aberrant individual! This species, anyway, was already seen for some of the tour participants in a pre-dawn walk around our accommodation and shortly the day before in the desert!
In the afternoon the group agreed to do a good exploration some tens of kilometers South from Merzouga. This area, not really explored by most birdwatchers, provided us with a quite pristine landscapes, as it once was Merzouga, along with excellent numbers of Desert, Bar-tailed & Greater Hoopoe Larks. Here Carmine found a lovely flock of 8 Crowned Sandgrouses that provided the group with gorgeous views and good photo chances!
Western Subalpine Warbler (Curruca iberiae), the commnest bush warbler in migration in Morocco. Image by Mark Newsome.This year there were excellent numbers of Fulvous Babblers (Turdoides fulva) around Merzouga. Image by Mark NewsomeMigratory Locust (Locusta migratoria). Image by Mark NewsomeWoodchat Shrike (Lanius senator) hunting from a palm shade. Image by Carles OliverEuropean Turtle Dove (Streptopelia turtur), a jewel declining all around the continent. Image by Carles OliverBar-tailed Lark (Ammomanes cinctura) was extremelly common South of Merzouga. Image by Carles OliverCrowned Sandgrouse shows similar habits to those seen from Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouses. Image by Carles Oliver
Day 9. Transition day from Merzouga to the endless steppe land around Saïda, home of the shy and always challenging Dupont’s Lark! Before leaving the desert, we had a pair of stops. After breakfast we covered a short distance to explore the grounds of another accommodation. Here we didn’t have a lot of time as the owners were not happy with our visit and we were invited to immediatly leave the gardens. A real pity since within 5 minutes we already had enjoyed some good sights including obliging Common Nightingale, Eurasian Hoopoe and Dylan found the 1st Eurasian Wryneck of the trip! Unfortunately it was no chance to try a dialogue with the owners and we left what can be considered as the less welcoming ksar in Southern Morocco!
Around Erfoud we still have a last stop before our long drive North. Our search of a proper pond finally was successful and we found a small pond (we could not consider it as a “proper” one) where we got the only 3 Sedge Warblers of trip along with Eurasian Reed Warbler, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, Western Bonelli’s Warbler, Bluethroat and, nearby, another Wryneck.
After some driving a lunch stop, we arrive to Zaïda in a windy afternoon. Birding was extremelly poor and we only got some distant Temminck’s Larks, a pair of Desert Wheatears and 1 Black-eared Wheatear. But swords were up for the next morning and try to find the famous “ghost bird”!
Moroccan Wagtail (Motacilla subpersonata), another Maghreb endemic. Image by Carles OliverMale Bluethroat (Luscinia svecica) hiding in dry tamarisks. Image by Carles OliverRecord shot of an Eurasian Wryneck (Jynx torquilla) in the desert dunes. Image by Carles OliverDesert Wheatear (Onenanthe deserti). Image by Mark Newsome.
Day 10. After a nice breakfast we covered the few miles from our accommodation to the place where I saw Dupont’s Larks in 2022. We arrived to place, that was free of wind and had a really pleasant temperature. Bird activity was intense and it didn’t take long before we built a good list including several Mediterranean Short-toed Larks, Thekla Larks, Desert & Red-rumped Wheatears, Trumpeter Finches and a good number of Temminck’s Larks. Driving only 150 metres away from where we got the bird in 2022, Mark found a rather large lark running about 50 metres away from the van, not far from a pair of Desert Wheatears. The bird disappeared behind some bush and, after some wait, a lovely Dupont’s Lark appeared in front of us! The bird was quite far away so we all jumped out of the vans to allow everybody to get good views on the bird, that was feeding in the area for some time before climbing in a bush and sing for some time to replay a distant male. After a pair of minutes, the bird flew off, singing in flight, and flying a long distance away, disappearing beyond the small ondulations of the terrain!
All the tour participants were really excited as the confidence about finding this very difficult bird is always low! We the best was still to come. Decided to get better views, we moved a bit away to check another corner. No birds were listened there so we decided to come back to the area where we first seen the Dupont’s Lark. In the way, 2 Cream-coloured Coursers, Thick-billed Larks & some Black-bellied Sandgrouses were all seen! Back to place we were enjoying some Mediterranean Short-toed Larks displaying ten metres away from the van when a gorgeous Dupont’s Lark just appeared only a few metres to our left! The bird was really relaxed and was feeding around the tussocks of grass. The excitement inside the vehicles was huge, hundreds of images were taken and most of the tour participants decided to go out to enjoy this incredible sight from even closer (but never leaving the road!).
Common Whitethroat (Curruca communis) from our pre-dawn walk. Image by tour leader Sergi Sales.Black-bellied Sandgrouses (Pterocles orientalis) around Saïda. Image by Mark Newsome.Dupont’s Lark (Chersophilus duponti) offered unforgettable views to all the tour participants! Image by Carles Oliver Mediterranean Short-toed Lark (Alaudala rufescens) displaying. Image by Carles Oliver
Extremelly happy after such a great views, we started the long transfer to Ouarzazate, where we had the last overnight of the tour. In the way, we still have time to stop and enjoy amazing views on a hatching female Lanner Falcon plus some other goodies including Fat Sand Rat, Desert Larks, Atlas Buzzard and a female Maghreb Wheatear.
At dust, a short stop in a river produced some nice views on Grey Wagtail, Booted Eagle and Cetti’s Warbler before a Barbary Falcon appeared in a fast raid to try to catch one of the Cattle Egrets around. A really nice way to end the day!
The impressive broken terrain South of Boulmane du Dades offers good habitat to a variety of species. Image by Carles Oliver
Day 11. Last day of this tour, one day longer than usual to include Dupont’s Lark in the itinerary. Before driving back to Marrakech by crossing the Atlas, we decided to have another go to the massive barrage South of Boulmane du Dades. This time the weather was clearly better, a calm, sunny and promising morning that was not really productive. A series of stops in the massive dump produced good views on migratory Black Storks and large flocks of Black Kites but little numbers of ducks in the lake.
But, when leaving one of the spots, Carmine found a pair of gorgeous Thick-billed Larks right next to the van that displayed long for us! Leaving the dump behind us, we still enjoyed close views on Little Ringed Plover by the road, and the very last birding stop still produced Little Swift, Common Nightingale, Melodious Warbler, Black-eared Wheatear and a singing Wryneck before we crossed the Atlas back to Marrakech, where we did arrive at mid afternoon, in time for everybody to reach their flights.
Black Kites (Milvus migrans) leaving their roosting place to cross the Atlas. Image by Carles OliverThe last day we got quite impressive views on Thick-billed Larks. Images by Carles OliverLittle Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius) in flight. Image by Mark Newsome. Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe hispanica) in a typical migratory spot. Image by Carles Oliver
All images by tour leader Carles Oliver. All rights reserved
Overview: Our 9th Pyrenees Winter Break tour started in the Pyrenees right after a strong snow fall. During the tour the weather was sunny and not especially cold in the mountains. In the plains, we had a morning with some fog, but it didn’t stop us to find all main specialties living there.
Day 1: Once all tour participants were collected from the their accommodations around the International Barcelona Airport, a short drive lead us to the Pyrenees. Only 90 minutes away from the city and we were already in a wonderful location, a mountain range hosting all high mountain birds specialties living in the Pyrenees.
It was sunny, but the day before it had been snowing so a pair of high mountain lanes were closed during the morning. Our fist stop was dedicated to explore the meadows around Bagà, where the very first birds of the day and the trip was a Lesser Spotted Woodpecker that was hunging around the parking place. Here we had some common birds in the area including Cirl Bunting, Black Redstart, Eurasian Blue Tit and Eurasian Nuthatch. Here, the terraced landscape is fulfilled with lines of Poplars and a fast scan produced the first Iberian Green Woodpecker of the tour while was moving high in the trees. Several Common Chaffinches were around, and they all moved down to the ground to feed, followed by the Iberian Green Woodpecker.
Other birds in this first stop included European Stonechat, Meadow Pipit, Common Magpie and Eurasian Greenfinch.
After this good start we drove some miles up in a lane. Our goal was to arrive to the limit of the forest (About 1800 metres above the sea level), but we were stopped by a small flock of birds. Here we had the first Mistle Thrushes of the trip along with several Common Crossbills, Coal Tits, and Goldcrests. Still, our guests especially enjoyed the views on both Rock Buntings and European Crested Tits.
Once above the tree limit, we did another non planned stop. A gorgeous Lammergeier (aka Bearded Vulture) was sitting in the top of a rocky outcrop just beside the road, providing the group with incredible views! Common Crossbills were also around, adding with their calls a plus on the mountainous ambients of the sight. After ten minutes of observation, the Lammergeier decided to fly away, passing over the group and providing us with unforgettable memories of that moment.
Wonderful Lammergier (Gypaetos barbatus) during our exploration of the Cadí-Moixeró Natural Park. Images by tour leader Carles Oliver
From here we drove higher. Beyond the tree limit there were mixed flocks of Fieldfares and Mistle Thrushes feeding on the snowed slopes. The weather was stable, with only a brise and some scenic clouds, and many birds were taking advantage of the good weather to feed around. Here we saw more Rock Buntings and a flock of 11 Bramblings flew off from one of the last trees up the lane.
When we arrived to the mountain pass, we found chunky three birds feeding by the tarmac. 3 wonderful Snowfinches were right beside us, but unfortunately decided to flew off and down the slope. From here we decided to go for a short walk. Common Ravens were seen around, and a Peregrine Falcon appeared in a fast, low flight going down the slope in a mission. Up to 10 Eurasian Griffons were also seen exploring the thermals before a large flock of 60+ Snowfinches suddenly appeared in a small hillside some 150 metres away from us, and started feeding on the ground. We all enjoyed very much the finch spectacle with several calls, short flights and even fights. We waited a bit, not moving, and we were rewarded with the birds coming down the hillside just beside the tarmac. After 10 minutes of observation, the birds simply decided to go up the slope again, and disappeared beyond some large boulders!
Alpine Accentor (Prunella collaris) showing nicely in our first day in the mountainsSnowFinches (Montifringilla nivalis) feeding on the slopes. Image by Carles OliverRock Bunting (Emberiza cia) is a common bird in the broken slopes around the Pyrenees.
Really happy after such a great sight, the group came back to the van, decided to explore that lane a bit more. Only a few miles away, a stop was made. Our short walk was again successful, as we found a lovely, obliging Alpine Accentor feeding really close to the road and, with some patience, we got some great shots on it. The views on the Accentor were perturbed by a large flock of 73 Alpine Choughs that suddenly appeared in the valley, offering good but rather distant views while a Lammergeier appeared again, crossing the valley in some seconds.
Really happy after this really successful start we went all the way down and did our way for the last stop of the day in a scrub hillside not far from our accommodation. It was already early afternoon, offering a calid light for the sightings to come. Our short walk up the hill produced some interesting sights including a large flock of Cirl Buntings feeding on the ground along with 2 Woodlarks, 4 Rock Buntings, 2 Redwings, 14 Rock Sparrows and the firsts Iberian Grey Shrike of the trip. In the skies, several Red Kites were moving around and we counted 3 Griffons Vultures and 1 adult Lammergeier. Here we also had the only Citril Finch of the trip, unfortunately a flying bird that provided poor views.
After this stop we just drove the short distance to our accommodation.
Day 2. After enjoying a lovely breakfast we left our accommodation. The first stop of the day was devoted to explore a lovely corner of the Segre River that crosses the beautiful Cerdanya valley. Here we enjoyed White-throated Dippers, Cirl Buntings, many Redwings and 2 Bramblings among several Chaffinches. Here we also had an Eurasian Woodcock that flew off from a nearby meadow, an uncommon bird to have here in day light!
From here we went up in the forested slopes, to spend some time in a boreal forest. As usual, the area was quite full of activity and it didn’t take us long to enjoy good views on Short-toed Treecreeper, Goldcrest, European Crested Tit, Firecrest and Coal Tit but also Common Crossbill, Goldfinch and Greenfinches. But the most celebrated sight here was a Black Woodpecker moving really low in a pine tree that offered us lovely scope views.
Happy after this lovely views we drove up to Andorra. During the hour long drive, a pair of stops were necessary to enjoy both Lammergeier and Golden Eagle. Once in Pas de la Casa we had a stop for a coffee while enjoying the urban Alpine Choughs that live around the sky resort. By the time of our arrival it was snowing a bit, providing the sight with a wonderful alpine setting!
Cirl Bunting (Emberiza cirlus) showed very well around the accommodationAlpine Chough (Pyrrhocorax graculus) under the snow fall in Andorra. Image by tour leader Carles Oliver
From here we drove back to Catalonia to have a final stop in the large fields that are the core of the Cerdanya Valley. There we enjoyed large flocks of Eurasian Skylarks, several flocks of Cirl & Rock Buntings, Meadow Pipits, Linnets and Corn Buntings but also the only 2 Hen Harriers of the tour, including a lovely male.
Day 3. Transfer to a different section of the Pyrenees. We drove West for about 90 minutes before to arrive into a small gorge in a secondary road. This was our first attempt to find a Wallcreeper, and we didn’t have to wait long! We waited for the bird in a small, old bridge, and only a few minutes after we got out of the vehicle, a wonderful Wallcreeper right in front us, providing excellent views for some minutes. The bird, always in search of insects that look for shelter in the rocky crevices, started to climb up the wall and we could follow its itinerary for several minutes. It kept doing short flights, and flickering its wings to show out its wonderful red panels (a way to keep other Wallcreepers away from that cliff).
Here we also had other interesting birds living in the cliffs including Blue Rock Thrush and Crag Martin. The Wallcreeper, after showing out for about 15 minutes, finally disappeared behind a rock, and this was the time for us to move to our next stop.
Wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria), without doubt the most sought-after bird in the mountains!
Leaving the hills behind, we drove to one of the few corners around Lleida where traditional wheat farming is still dominant. These areas host an abundant birdlife, and the number and variety of birds of prey is quite stunning. It didn’t take long before we had several views on Western Marsh Harriers, Red Kites and also Common Buzzards, some Griffons, Eurasian Sparrowhawk and even 2 Goshawks. All of this before the real goal of this stop appeared in one of its preferred trees: the long-staying Long-legged Buzzard! This bird of prey, nesting from Bulgaria to the East until the Arabian Peninsula, is a huge rarity in Catalonia and always worth a visit! This time we had excellent scope views, and also the chance to compare the size of this large Buzzard with a much smaller Western Marsh Harrier that was perched in a tree next to the Buteo hawk.
A small flock of Little Bustards had been some weeks feeding in a field nearby, and we covered the short distance to enjoy lovely scope views of 7 of this endangered bird, another victim of the farming intensification in Europe.
From this place we drove East to explore some of the dry canyons immediately South of Lleida. A pair of stops here allowed us to enjoy not only Stock Doves, Red-billed Choughs and Little Owl, but also on the scarce Black Wheatear. Here, between the abandoned terraces and the small cliffs of these canyons we were lucky enough to find a female Eurasian Eagle Owl hatching on its nest! A wonderful sight to end the third day of the tour!
Iberian Grey Shrike (Lanius meridionalis), a lovely Iberian endemic!Distant to don’t disturb the female Eurasian Eagle Owl (Bubo bubo) on its nest.
Day 4. Early start to explore the massive steppe lands South & West of Lleida. On the contrary of the previous day, the morning was foggy around the city so we decided to go up to the highlands West of Lleida to try to scape the fog. And we did it, partially.
As soon as arriving to the steppes we enjoyed large flocks of Corn Buntings but also Calandra & Mediterranean Short-toed Larks. They were feeding on the ground along with Common Linnets, Meadow Pipits and Goldfinches. It was sunny, but the fog was not far away and it was moving our way, so we didn’t have a lot of time!
We were lucky and 4 Black-bellied Sandgrouses flew off from a nearby field, allowing great flight views and nice photo opportunities. We scanned in different fields looking for Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, but we were unsuccessful. Finally, we decided to move to lower area to keep scanning. A pair of stops were necessary to enjoy Iberian Grey Shrikes and Thekla’s Larks and by we arrived to the new location the fog started catching us up. It was a pity because at soon as we arrived a flock of 14 Black-bellied Sandgrouse flew off from the field, but 8 more remained. A fast scan in the place allowed us to find 12 Pin-tailed Sandgrouses, some of them really close to us and the fog allowed great scope views despite it ruined the photo chances of the moment.
Dartford Warbler (Curruca undata) can be especially common in the steppes during winterCalandra Lark (Melanocorypha calandra) favours both extensive crops and steppe lands.Suddenly the fog appeared in our views on Pin-tailed Sandgrouses, even if close, were not shining.
Decided to escape the fog, we drove East to check another place in Los Monegros. There, around Bujaraloz, we went in the search of the small population of Great Bustards that subsists in the area. Here it was sunny and it only took us 5 minutes to find a lovely flock of 17 males walking around in a wonderful field full of flowers. After enjoying this great birds we took our time to check a pair of corners around, where we found more Pin-tailed Sandgrouses but also Merlin and 1 Golden Eagle.
It was already lunch time so we covered the short distance to a small lagoon. From its view point we had a good selection of waterfowl that included Little & Great Crested Grebes, Gadwall, Eurasian Teals, Common Pochards, Shovelers, 5 Red-crested Pochards and 1 male Pintails. The reedbeds around were having some Great White Egrets and Grey Herons and a short walk by reed produced Penduline Tits, ruff views on an elusive Cetti’s Warblers, several Reed Buntings and a shy Bluethroat that not allowed any photo. The fields around were having large flocks of Chaffinches and we were happy to pick up a Brambling from there as well!
From here we had a final stop in a different wetland very close to Lleida, where the fog was still persistent. Here we had short walk along the reeds. It was little movement, but finally our perseverance was rewarded with good views on 2 Bearded Tits that appeared really close in the reeds. They were really celebrated by the tour participants, and the afternoon ended with 2 Common Kingfishers chasing each other in the fog!
Great Bustards (Otis tarda) has only two small populations left in Aragon, and they can be harder than expected to find!
Day 5. Last morning of the trip before heading back to Barcelona Airport. This morning was devoted to explore the wonderful habitat of low, sparse scrubland where the poor understood Dupont’s Lark lives. This species is to be found in poor soils with a rich gradient of salt on it, resulting a landscape of low, scattered scrubs. The songs of both Calandra & Mediterranean Short-toed Larks were constant in the air. The morning was sunny, and the temperature was higher than the day before. We spend some time exploring the area by combining short walks and slow drives, and after less than hour we were enjoying a Dupont’s Lark while feeding on the ground. It was interesting to see the bird excavating the soil with powerful movements of its whole body, pushing its long bill into the soft soil to get a small prey before starting its short, fast runs between the tussocks of grass.
Dupont’s Larks (Chersophilus duponti) favour the poor soils around the Ebro basin. Many White Storks (Ciconia ciconia) don’t nest any more so to see them in the nest in February is not rare!
This was quite a phenomenal way of ending our tour. After this we just drove back to Barcelona, where we had a final stop around the airport to enjoy Iberian Green Woodpeckers, Eurasian Hoopoes, Zitting Cisticola and a rather unexpected light form Booted Eagle!
All images in this trip report by Carles Oliver. All rights reserved.
Overview. Our 8th tour to Morocco explored again one of the most popular routes in Southern Morocco. Combining excellent mountain birding in the Atlas with the stunning variety of birdlife living in the transitional plains between the mountains and the Sahara, this tour embraces a good array of habitats that provides excellent chances for all the main specialties living in the area. This year, the tour was marked by an unusual cloudy weather and very cold temperatures. During our stay in Agadir, we had general rains in the area, and the snow was appearing a pair of times during the tour. This situation was translated in a poor bird migration, with several trans-Saharan migratory species showing very thin numbers, when not being totally absent from our trip list. Despite the general unusual weather, we got excellent views on all specialties out of Thick-billed Lark. The tour had also a pair of very interesting birds, as males Little Crake and Pallid Harrier were seen both around Ouarzazate.
Day 1: Early breakfast in our hotel in Marrakech before going out and enjoy a sunny but rather fresh day. All tour participants were arriving along the day before in a number of afternoon flights, and we all met for an evening meal.
Before getting to the van we had some nice looks to the Marrakech urban birdlife. A number of Pallid Swifts were flying low, and we got good views on the colour and structure. On the same hotel, two House Buntings were singing their heart out while Sardinian Warblers, Common Bulbuls, Spotless Starlings and Eurasian Greenfinches were also noted.
Maghreb Magpie (Pica mauretanica) showing out its smart blue facial markings
In our way out of Marrakech we had first views on Maghreb Magpies, a recent split from Eurasian Magpies, on the wires or feeding on the ground, often along with Cattle Egrets. Our first stop was to explore a lovely valley in the Atlas. Here, small patches of riverside forests are surrounded by the wallnut orchards while the slopes around are fittered with Juniper srublands. Soon after living the van we had our first Levaillant’s Woodpecker (aka AtlasGreen Woodpecker) nicely showing. We could all have excellent views while the bird was slowy moving in the branches of tree, in an interesting warbler-like behaviour. 2 African Blue Tits appeared as well in the same place, and a showy Eurasian Wren was a nice adding. Great Tit was calling in the distance, and European Serins were moving all around. A bit more of time in this wonderful location allowed us to have 3 Little Swifts, our first Moroccan Wagtail, Great Spotted Woodpecker and lovely views on a male Cirl Bunting.
The North African race of Great Spotted Woodpeckers are quite disctintive, showing a darkish tint in the breast and extensive red in the vental areaLevaillant’s Green Woodpecker, the first of many specialities showing in the tourAfrican Chaffinches are close to the races living in the Canaries but still considered conspecific with the European races
We move on from this wonderful corner to go up in the hillsides. As normal, we had some good roadside birding, and Lesser Kestrels and Eurasian Sparrowhawk were noted while moving up. Once arrived to a typical habitat we had a second stop, successful again. Soon after we got out of the van a wonderful Tristam’s Warbler was moving really close while feeding in the Junipers. Another bird was singing up in the slope and provided good looks while showing on the top of a bush. Around the area we also had two Atlas Coal Tits (a potential split) and a wonderful Rock Bunting calling while doing its way in a barren slope. However, the suprise of the stop was to see 3+ Ring Ouzels (torquatus race) moving in the scrublands and on the ground while looking for berries.
Back to the lane, we kept doing our way up until a large flock of Red-billed Choughs came to us in a wonderful aerial spectacle. The birds were not only playing with the wind in the slopes, but also harrasing an Atlas Buzzard (still considered a race of Long-legged Buzzard, but who knows for how long). A fast stop by the road was required, and happily all the tour participants could connect with this amazing bird of prey, clearly smaller and short-winged than nominals Long-leggeds. But we were still luckier when a Barbary Falcon joined the show for a while, and offered nice views while flying quite lower than the Choughs themselves!
Tristam’s Warblers look for slopes rich in junipers to nestIn our way to Oukaimeden we had the chance to enjoy superb views on cirtensis Long-legged Buzzard (aka Atlas Buzzard)
Happy after such a wonderful road side stop, we kept our way to arrive to Oukaïmeden. Once in the area, we did a short walk in the plain and we fast had a flock of 6 Rock Sparrows that gave us nice views. Black Redstarts and Black Wheatears were around, and we were lucky enough to see White-throated Dipper in the stream and 1 Alpine Accentor that flew along right in front of us, but the main attractions of the place kept elusive for us.
We decided to do a lunch stop, and enjoy the good food up in the mountains. After lunch we went for a second shot in the plains and we were definately luckier, since a female African Crimson-winged Finch appeared sitting on a wire and, after a bit of walk, we all enjoyed excellent views on the bird! It was certainly strange to have a single individual here, contrasting with flocks that we normally find but never mind. We really took that!
A last stop was required before stating going down to Marrakech. In a small corner of the plain (a typical place for them to be) we found 12+ Atlas Horned Lark, a very distictive, resident race of Horned Larks, and again a good candidate for a future split.
Out of mountains, we still decided to go for a final stop before going back to our accommodation. The Southern part of Marrakech has lovely fields and a good array of birdlife living on them. Here we had a stop to and we were granted with a lovely flock of European Serins, Spanish Sparrows, Corn Buntings, Crested Larks, Zitting Cisticolas, European Stonechats plus the views on species such as Moussier’s Redstart and Woodchat Shrike. But the main character and the authentical reason of our stop was to look for Barbary Partridges, and we were lucky enough to find 3+ of them doing their way in the fields, and trying to disapear in the open terrain.
Atlas Horned Laks are endemic of the Atlas high plateaus and slopes, overwintering in the same mountains but at lower altitudesThis year we struggled to find this female African Crimson-winged Finch!While searching for the high mountain species we had the chance to enjoy some obliging Red-billed Choughs
Day 2. Transfer day from Marrakech to the Agadir area. A transfer was more complicated due to the difficult traffic around Agadir. Our first stop was in Essaouira, where we enjoined some good birds South of the city. Here we had first views on Ruddy Shelducks but also Pied Avocets, Black-winged Stilts, 2 Green Sandpipers, Wood Sandpiper, 1 Ruff, 14 Eurasian Spoonbills, Greater Flamingoes, Common Redshanks, 3 Little Ringed Plovers and 1 Common Snipe. Some other species, although more distant, included 3 Audouin’s Gulls + 1 Mediterranean Gull and 3 Sandwich Terns roosting along with large numbers of Yellow-legged Gulls (probably coming from the Mogador Island colony) and a single Lesser Black-backed Gull.
Our journey kept to the South, following the wonderful coastal route that, crossing slopes fittered with Argan trees, arrives to the Tamri Estuary. Here we had a walk and soon we had good views on Northern Bald Ibis flying above us. The walk goes along the coastal dunes, with many Lesser Black-backed Gulls moving up in down along the coast. A scan into a flock of gulls roosting in the beach produced to less than 40 Audouin’s Gulls and some nice-looking Kentish Plovers. But the main attraction was still to come when a Northern Bald Ibis just landed a few metres away from us, and started to look for food in the sand. Digging its bill in the dunes, the bird showed really suggessful and got warms and some small insects. After 20 minutes of wonderful sighting, joined by two pairs of Moussier’s Redstart, we did a last stop further South, in the Cape Tamri.
Northern Bald Ibis, with only three colonies in Morocco, is one of the most endangered birds in the region
This location proved in other issues to be excellent for seawatching, but this time all the birds were seen really far away, and the counts were not above 25 Northern Gannets moving North and some Sandwich Terns moving around. The stop was complemented with great views on tame Thekla Larks moving around the rocky outcrops and 2 Algerian Shrikes (the race of Great Grey Shrike living in Northern Morocco and along the Atlantic coast).
We started moving to our accommodation, with a last stop in mind, but our changes of this last birding stop vanished into a large traffic jump due to road works.
Day 3. Our day in the Souss-Massa National Park started with a pair of short walks to catch up with some specialties around. The weather was clearly changing, with a massive low pressure system coming from the Atlantic Ocean and threatening with strong rains and lower temperatures. Still, we managed a pair of successful stops in the morning.
Our first stop was to explore a small corner of the Massa River. In the past, this area showed a wonderful variety of birdlife, including several migratory birds. But this year the water level (like in many other corners along the Massa River) was really low, and the migratory birds almost absent. A short stroll rapidly produced good views on Cetti’s Warbler and African Chaffinches. Several Common Chiffchaffs were moving around, and a obliging pair of Moussier’s Redstart provided great views. In the distance, a Black-winged Kite was whovering above the farming around the river. After some scanning, we were able to locate a wonderful Black-crowned Tchagra moving in the lash vegetation, and with some patience we all enjoyed great and close views on it!
Black-winged Kite next to our accommodation!This issue again provided excellent views on Black-crowned Tchagra, despite the weatherLittle Owl in a fig tree was a rather unexpected sight
The clouds were already coming, and temperature was getting down (collapsing!), but we managed a second stop before the heavy rain arrived. In a small patch of reeds and tamarisks we found the first Western Olivaceous Warbler (aka Isabelline Warbler) of the trip moving in the vegetation and going on with what it sounded like a subsong. 3 Eurasian Spoonbills were feeding in a small pond along with 1 Common Sandpiper and 1 Little Ringed Plover. Some Little & Pallid Swifts flew above us, providing good looks while we moving away from the river to have a short exploration of the fields around. A flock of 35 Eurasian Siskins was quite a surprise so far South, but little more could be added out of 1 Meadow Pipit and Moussier’s Redstarts. It started to rain heavily so we decided to go back to our accommodation. In our way back, a Little Owl was a nice find!
The heavy rain tied us to ous hotel until mid-afternoon, when the rain stopped and we could go out. There were still some clouds, but had to move! Another potentially good corner in the river Massa was also rather quiet, but we still had 4 Plain Martins flying around, brief views on 1 Bluethroat, Maghreb Magpies, a distant Western Swamphen, 1 Purple Heron and a small flock of Pied Avocets feeding nearby the bridge. Beyond this point, the area become more bushy, with formidable formations of euphorbias. Here we did a second stop, and we were granted with 3 Western Black-eared Wheatears, European Bee-eaters, Sardinian Warblers, 2 Eurasian Hoopoes, 2 Cirl Buntings at close range and 1 Great Spotted Cuckoo! We were all quite satisfied with this, and we drove back to the hotel for an early dinner. After dinner, more birds!
A short walk from our accommodation, and a bit of luck, provided great views on 1 Red-necked Nightjar calling, flying and briefly stopping around us in a great sight that, for our clients, ranked among one of the 10 better birds of the trip!!!
This stunning and wet male Moussier’s Redstart was extremely tame with our groupWestern Olivaceous Warblers nest along the River MassaFemale Cirl Bunting around our accommodationSuperb Spanish Sparrows were feeding at the hotel grounds
Day 4. Transfer day between Agadir and Ouarzazate. The morning was again really cold (only 10ºC!!) and with some rain. Despite the bad weather we did stop in the Massa River, and we had a good hearing on 3 Black-crowned Tchagras singing while a flock of Glossy Ibis was feeding around. A second morning stop in the Souss River estuary was way more productive. Here we got a really good selection of waders feeding in the mudflats along with several Eurasian Spoonbills, some Greater Flamingoes, Mediterranean Gulls and a Lesser Kestrel hunting dragonflies!
It was quite a surprise the good number of Black-tailed Godwits in the estuary feeding along with several Black-winged Stilts and Pied Avocets. A minimum of 48 Ruffs were also counted, and 27 Curlew Sandpipers. 3 Spotted Redshanks were also noted along with many Common Redshanks, Grey Plovers, Eurasian Whimbrels and some Wood Sandpipers. A careful scanning revealed also 1 Temminck’s Stint, 2 Red Knots, 4 Eurasian Curlews, 4 Bar-tailed Godwits and a flock of 7 Little Stints. Surprisingly we only counted 4 Common Ringed Plovers in the whole estuary!
Stilts, Black-tailed Godwits, Ruffs + Common & Spotted Redshanks feeding in Souss RiverA lovely view of the Souss River
A short walk along the more vegetated areas produced some Yellow Wagtails and short views on a (white-spotted) Bluethroat.
After this pleasant stop we went on with our transfer along the Anti Atlas. The roads between Agadir & Ouarzazate goes along one of the best areas for birds of prey in Morocco. With the Tawny Eagle and Chanting Goshawks both gone for long, the area remains as an interesting hot-spot for birds of prey such as Black-winged Kite. Along the road, we counted up to 4 Black-winged Kites, but also Black Kites, our first Short-toed Snake Eagle and 1 Barbary Falcon.
House Bunting in a terrace
One of the best stops on this road birding provided excellent views on a Great Spotted Cuckoo singing from the top of an Argan Tree. Some tens of miles away from the cuckoo, another stop was mandatory when we found 4 obliging Cream-coloured Coursers and 2 Desert Larks just by the tarmac!
This was the 2nd Great Spotted Cuckoo of the tour. Just by the highwayThis year Cream-coloured Coursers seem to be everywhere!
In the afternoon we were already close to Ouarzazate, when we crossed one of the many streams coming down from the Atlas. There, roosting in the reedbeds, there were several Little Egrets and 4 Black-crowneds Night Herons. A stop was, obviously, mandatory!
The vegetation along the stream was full of Sedge Warblers that were feeding along with 1 or 2 Eurasian Reed Warblers while the first Willow Warbler of the trip was moving in a tall grass right beyond. We were really enjoying the views on these little fellas just when 1 male Little Crake decided to walk out of the vegetation, showing himself in a superb afternoon light! The bird was there for 10 minutes, in what it was a lifer bird of more than the half of the group! Then somebody advaced about a bird of prey coming from the right, and we all had the time enjoy a superb Bonelli’s Eagle diving right beyonf the stream, tallons in the front of, probably trying to catch a prey!
Everybody was really excited, and the Little Crake was still in the out, but a Eurasian Wryneck just called in our back. Time to move to the small Almond plantation and try to find the Wryneck. We moved slowly in the fields with scatered large Almond trees, when a small bird just flew off from the grass and landed low in small bush: 1 Common Grasshoper Warbler! It took me 10 minutes to put everyone in the bird, but we did it!!!
Back to the Wryneck operation, we moved around the area and found a lovely European Turtle Dove sitting on a tree. A tour participant found a Woodchat Shrike in a large shrub and we all admired it but, by the time my bins came back to the tree where the Turtle Dove was, it was turned into the Wryneck that we had been looking for!! What a wonderful stop!!
And this is how a road birding day can turn out in a absolutely great birding day!
Male Little Crake in a small stream around OuarzazateSurprisingly, this was our only European Turtle Dove of the tour!
Day 5. Early morning start to explore the massive reservoir inmediatly South of Ouarzazate. Weather was still cloudy, and temperatures were far lower than expected. Still, we enjoyed another great day. Instead of heading directly to the reservoir, we drove a bit around the semi desert to try to find some specialties. There we had first views on Desert & White-crowned Black Wheatears but also a pair of Trumpeter Finches and 1 Spectacled Warbler. It was clear that it was some migration, since it was a flock after a flock of Greater Short-toed Larks moving North, and we got 17 Black Storks that seemed to be roosting in a distant plateau East of the reservoir.
Once in the lake, we had good views on both Maghreb & Thekla’s Larks. The shores were full with Ruddy Shelducks and the songs of migratory Sedge Warblers were all over. A distant Water Rail was also noted, while a large flock og 400+ White Storks were roosting in the reeds. On waders, it was low. We only had some Little Ringed Plovers, some Ruffs, Green Sandpipers, 2 Greenshanks and 3 Black-tailed Godwits.
Maghreb Lark (Galerida macrorrhyncha), a recent split from Crested LarkOne of the only 3 Alpine Swifts during the tour
A bit beyond we reached a view point over the reservoir and we soon had excellent but distant views over the many Marbled Teals around. We counted a minimum of 80 of them and, along with this really scarce duck, we enjoyed a good array of other ducks including Gadwalls, Northern Shovelers and Eurasian Teals, but also 1 female Eurasian Wigeon, 2 Tufted Ducks, 12 Common Pochards, 5 Garganeys and 2 Northern Pintails. In the lagoon we also got the only Great Crested Grebes of the trip while 2 Alpine Swifts flew over.
After some time scanning the lagoon we started to move. It was still cold and cloudy but it was evident that a good raptor migration was going on. Hundreds of distant Black Kites were cincling and moving North, 1 female Western Marsh Harrier was seen flying low and inmediatly after we got one of the surprises of the trip, a male Pallid Harrier that showed briefly while flying towards the Atlas! Unfotunately not everyone in the group got a proper view on this very scarce bird of prey!!
It was already late in the morning so we started moving East to arrive to our accommodation in Boulmane du Dades for an early lunch. The ambient here was even colder that it was in the morning, and we had lunch by the fire!
During the afternoon we had a first contact with the extensive steppe land inmediatly South of Boulmane. The light was poor and the temperature was only 6ºC, extremelly low for Morocco in this season. Still, it didn’t take long to have first views on Temminck’s Larks, and a proper stroll around produced a pair of Greater Hoopoe Larks, 1 Long-legged Buzzard, 1 Barbary Falcon a flock of 6 Cream-coloured Coursers and some Desert Wheatears.
Part of our group enjoying the plains!Barbary Falcon in its scouting pointThere were still few numbers of Desert Wheatears in Boulmane and nearby areas
Day 6. Full day enjoying the steppes and gorges around Boulmane. In the morning we had some stops in the plains, adding great views on Trumpeter Finches and Red-rumped Wheatears to our list. We were only 3ºC but the birding was still great, with several Temminck’s Larks around and migratory Greater Short-toed Larks feeding around. A short visit to proper fields around produced 8 Black-bellied Sansgrouses and, for our surprised, they were joined by 1 Pin-tailed Sandgrouse!
We were in a small lowland in the way to the Atlas, and a further exploration of the areas produced excellent views on Little Owls!
Our last stop of the morning was even better. A small corner in the plains that is normally a good place for Larks was having more than ever: 15+ Cream-coloured Coursers, 10+ Greater Hoopoe Larks, Mediterranean Short-toed Larks, Thekla’s Larks and Greater Short-toed Larks were all seen and enjoyed. A Tawny Pipit showed briefly and some bush around produced 2 Willow Warblers, 1 Tree Pipit, Linnets and 4 species of Wheatears (Northern, White-crowned Black, Red-rumped & Desert!).
Trumpeter Finch is, un many locations, the only one Finch aroundTemminck’s Lark, always a treatLittle Owl in the plains South of Boulmane. Please note the light brown coloration
In the afternoon the sun finally appeared, and temperature rose. We basically spent the afternoon in a pretty gorge close to Boulmane. There, we enjoyed great views on a roosting Pharaon Eagle Owl, but also a pair of Lanner Falcons, Black Wheatear, Desert Larks, a flyby Red-rumped Swallow and stunning views on a Maghreb Wheatear, one of the most sought-after birds of the country!
We enjoyed great views on a pair of Lanner FalconsPharaon Eagle Owl inside its daytime hollowMaghreb Wheatear, one of two endèmic Wheatears in the regionAn old Kashba, the Southern Morocco fancy castles made on clay
Day 7. In the morning we had another walk to explore a different corner in the plains, hoping to connect with Thick-billed Lark. It was no way to find this species but we enjoyed good views on Black-bellied Sandgrouses feeding on the ground and a good set of other larks.
After our en-route lunch we spent some time in a well-known spot in the desert, where we looked for the scarce and unobtrusive Saharan Scrub Warbler. The walk produced Woodchat Shrike, Tawny Pipit, Thekla Lark, Spectacled Warbler and the first Bar-tailed Lark of the trip. After some time looking for the famous Scotocerca, we were about to quit from our day quesy when one of the tour participants advaced us about a bird moving low in the scrubs. It took us about 25 minutes to put everybody in the bird but eventually there they were: A handsome pair of Saharan Scrub Warbler!
Saharan Scrub Warbler lives in low density in desert Scrub lands and barren slopesBlack-bellied Sandgrouses blind perfectly with the stony plainsThis year Greater Hoopoe Larks were really common around Boulmane du Dades
After this great sight we just drove to our accommodation down in the desert, with some road birding sights including Booted Eagle and Brown-necked Raven.
Day 8. Our day started in the desert by checking some great places for migratory song birds. Unfortunately, the extremely low temperatures of the last days was affecting the bird migration. Along the morning the number and variety of birds was extremely low. We still had good views on Western Subalpine Warblers, Western Bonelli’s Warblers, Common Redstarts, Eurasian Hoopoes, Willow Warblers and 3 Woodchat Shrikes. 1 Western Black-eared Wheatear was an unexpected sight, and we also enjoyed good views on Bar-tailed & Maghreb Larks.
But the bird of the day was the African Desert Warbler that we found nesting close to one of the main roads in the area, and that was providing really good looks!
Western Bonelli’s Warblers are a common view along the tourAfrican Desert Warbler in typical nesting site
Day 9. Early morning start to enjoy the birds of the desert. Our first stop was to visit a water hole in the dunes, and our efforts here were granted with great views on 80+ Crowned Sandgrouses and 40+ Spotted Sandgrouses that came down to drink water early in the morning. The images of these Sandgrouses drinking water is something that our clients will never forget!
A short drive for a coffee stop gave us access to one of the few Desert Sparrows left in the area, and we all again enjoyed really good views on a species that is becoming more and more scarce due to the concurrence of House Sparrows in the area. The morning ended with a last stop, this time to see 2 Egyptian Nightjars roosting in the dunes! Another amazing sight!!
During the afternoon, our clients had a free time to explore by their own the dunes and the bushland around the accommodation.
This year Crowned Sandgrouses were surprisingly common in MerzougaSpotted Sandgrouses on their to the water holeEgyptian Nightjar blinding in a wadyThe impressive sand dunes around MerzougaOnce and again we got amazing views on Desert Sparrows
Day 10. Transfer day from the desert to Marrakech. But in the morning we still had time to explore the extensive palm groves near Merzouga. There we were lucky enough to find a gorgeous Fulvous Babbler! Other good birds in the area included Common Redstart and Maghreb Lark.
Fulvous Babbler, a typical bird of palm grovesAtlas Wheatear inhabits the Atlas high mountain grasslands
The roads in Morocco have improved a lot and only some hours after we were already in the Atlas alpine meadows, were we had another productive stop, adding Atlas Wheatear (a recent split from Northern Wheatear, a short-migratoy species that nests in the Atlas high plateaus and overwinters in the Sahel plains). Here, we also got 3 Booted Eagles migrating North and the only Water Pipit of the trip!
A pair of hours later we were arriving to Marrakech after crossing the Atlas, and a rather massive snowfall that was ending our 8th tour to Morocco, and the one with the most weird weather!!!
In 2023 we will come, same dates. Join for excellent birding and good fun!!
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